Uganda by Pen and Camera

Front matter

Daudi Cwa, King of Uganda.

(Photographed at the age of six.)

[Uganda.]

Preface

Preface

By T. F. V. Buxton

Much has been written about the past history of Uganda, from the time of Stanley’s visit in and onwards. Thirty years is a short period in the history of a people; but in this case the period has been so full of kaleidoscopic changes, and has been marked by so many critical events, that its history reads like a romance. The rapidity with which these changes have taken place result in this, that the best descriptions of the country, written even a few years since, are quite inapplicable to the present time; and thus there is ample room for such an account as Mr. Charles Hattersley gives in the present book.

Uganda is a country which has called forth an extraordinary amount of interest and sympathy here at home, and there are numbers who will welcome this latest picture of its people. Among them I hope there may be many young men whose thoughts are turning to the missionary life, and who wish to study a field in which, under God’s providence, their future work may lie. The picture given here is graphic and attractive, and I can bear witness that it is also faithful and true to life. I had the privilege the year before last of paying a visit to Uganda; and it is pleasant, in turning over the pages of Mr. Hattersley’s chapters, to have innumerable incidents of the journey and details of native life recalled by his descriptions, and by the excellent photographs with which they are illustrated.

Peace and security now reign in Uganda, and the English resident suffers from none of the anxiety as to personal safety to which he and his predecessors were exposed a few short years ago. But the missionary-to-day, as Mr. Hattersley indicates, has to face other difficulties which are no less anxious to one whose whole heart is in the work. British administration has broken down the old restraints, and individual freedom of action prevails as never before. At the same time there is an in-rush of new influences from Europe and from India, which are often in direct antagonism to those of the missionary. The Christian Church is thus passing through a time of sifting and trial, and there seems a special call now for unwavering faith in the power of prayer and in the assured triumph of the Grace of God.

To meet the new circumstances, it is obvious that one of the most important objects to be kept in view must be the imparting of sound education. Elementary schools have already done a noble work, and the Baganda have proved apt and eager pupils; but among many of them the demand has now arisen for something more than the three R’s and simple Bible-teaching. The whole system of education in Mengo, and throughout the country, is being revised and extended, and the ability which Mr. Hattersley has already shown in this branch of missionary work points him out as one who must take a prominent part in the improvements now under consideration.

We were impressed by the signs of vigour and efficiency evident in the conduct of the large boys’ school under his charge, and were greatly interested in a project for which he was preparing at the time of our visit to Mengo. Mr. Hattersley was then busy over the erection of a group of small boarding-houses for the sons of chiefs in different parts of the country, for whom better education was desirable than could be obtained in their village schools.

One of these houses had been provided by the Administration to accommodate young chiefs from Busoga, for whom it was considered important that they should be removed for a time from undesirable home influences, and trained in a way more likely to qualify them for taking their part worthily in the government of their country. The work of these boarding-houses is now in full swing, and they must form a very valuable adjunct to the day school. We shall not soon forget our visit to this latter institution. The large grass-thatched building was well filled, and all the boys seemed to be working keenly at their lessons, while the teachers were throwing themselves heartily into the work of imparting knowledge. The most interesting class was a gathering of senior boys, many of them practically grown up, who were receiving systematic Bible-teaching from Mr. Hattersley himself.

It is pleasant to notice how all the teaching in Mengo clusters round the great cathedral,recently built by the Baganda under Mr. Borup’s able superintendence. This cathedral stands on one of the twin tops of Namirembe, the highest among a group of hills over which the capital is scattered. The three tall peaks by which its roof is surmounted form a striking feature in the view from any of the surrounding hills, and the cathedral itself is set off by the lower buildings which lie about it, though separated by an ample space of level ground. The boys’ and girls’ schools lie beyond the east end, while on one side is the building filled daily with numbers of candidates preparing for baptism or confirmation, and on the other side are carried on the classes for training teachers, male and female.

Of these, the young men are under Mr. Roscoe’s charge—and a heavy charge it is, considering the numbers to be trained. When we visited him at his work, we found the room well filled with about a hundred teachers in training, who were writing out answers to Bible questions. To maintain order among so large a number, who have known practically nothing of discipline before they joined the classes, is in itself no light task; but the fact that all are voluntary learners makes the work easier than it otherwise would be. The missionary has, of course, many anxieties regarding the spiritual tone of those who offer themselves as Christian workers; but some test of their sincerity and zeal is provided by the fact that the majority come from a distance, and find considerable difficulty in providing for themselves during their stay at the capital. Many have, in fact, to endure real hardness, and often go short of food, in their anxiety to learn and to qualify themselves for pastoral and missionary labour.

The avidity for learning evidenced by these intending teachers, and among the rapidly-growing classes of Baganda who can read and write, shows the immense importance of providing wholesome literature in the Luganda language. Hitherto the Bible has been practically the only book, and we may be deeply thankful that the Word of God has had the first place, and has had time to influence the Baganda so deeply before other books were translated. Now, however, the demand is extending, and must be supplied. The work of the Bible Society will, we hope and expect, not diminish, but go on steadily increasing; but its sister societies, the Religious Tract Society and the S.P.C.K., are needed to supplement its work without delay. The R.T.S. has already made several grants for Uganda, either free or at reduced rates. These have consisted chiefly of English books to help the missionaries in teaching; but now the great need is for vernacular literature, and a vast field of usefulness lies before the R.T.S. in the future. It is to be hoped that the committee and friends of that society may realise how critical is the present opportunity, and may supply the Baganda with an abundance of wholesome books before the flood of evil literature, which follows our so-called civilisation, begins to percolate into the country.

Having dwelt thus upon the importance of education and of literature, I cannot do better than conclude by endorsing with all my heart the remarks Mr. Hattersley makes on pages 34 and 35 of this book. He has been reminding us that the European in Uganda needs to be an all-round man, capable of turning his hand to a great variety of work, and he reminds us here that, in house building and other manual labour, the missionary has opportunities of commending the Gospel to many who cannot be reached in the class-room. It is true in Uganda, as elsewhere, that the life tells more than words, and it is important that all who go out to that country should realise the immense responsibility resting upon them. Every action will be watched, every word will be noted, and Christianity will be judged by its influence in the little things of daily life.

. Town of Mombasa. . Mombasa terminus. . Off the line.

Chapter 1

Uganda by Pen and Camera

Chapter I How to Get There

The journey to Uganda is nowadays not the tedious business it was up to the year . It is no longer necessary to do it on foot. The whole journey can be accomplished in twenty-six days, from London to Mengo. Crossing from Dover to Calais, passing by train through Paris and Lyons to Marseilles, and thence through the Mediterranean, Suez Canal, and the Red Sea, we round Cape Guardafui, and go down the East African Coast as far as Mombasa.

The sea-passage usually occupies twenty- one days. It is possible to go by a P. & O. steamer as far as Aden, and there change into a British India Steam Navigation Co.'s boat ; but most people prefer the French or German liners, which entail no change at Aden. Foreign boats are subsidised by their respective Governments, and give much better terms than the English boats. Although the distance, as the crow flies, is not more than miles, the circuitous route makes us travel over miles before reaching Uganda. From Mombasa to Mengo by land, as measured by cyclometer, is miles; but the present-day route is 584 miles by rail to the Lake Victoria, and miles across the lake from Ugowe Bay, or Kisumu, to Entebe, and from Entebe to Mengo 18 miles by road. The journey has been so often described that I do not intend to devote much time to that. It must suffice to show a picture of Mombasa, which strikes one on landing as being remarkably pretty. The white houses of the Government officers, and traders, contrasting with the vivid green of the foliage, and the blue sky and sea, all combine to produce a very pleasing effect, as the sun is shining brightly almost every day in the year.

Mombasa has been much improved during the last few years. Much better accommodation has been provided, which is, however, not necessary for missionaries, who do not use the hotels; warm-hearted brethren usually meet the new arrivals, and extend kind hospitality during their limited stay there.

We make our way to the railway station and take our tickets for Uganda, but the train service is somewhat restricted. For half the distance, little over miles, to Nairobi, there are as many as three trains a week, but beyond that point to the lake one or two passenger trains a week are considered ample for the small number of passengers. At the time of writing this, the upper part of the line is not yet permanent, and the heavy rains are constantly washing away parts of embankments, and the line being only single often causes much delay. Our illustration represents one such delay, where it took two hours to go yards, the train coming off the line five times.

Where one is not anxious to catch a steamer (we were, in this particular case), such delays are rather more amusing than distressing, for it is possible and allowable to get out of the train and take a walk or take snapshots ; but it is not advisable to walk too far ahead of the train, as there is positively no guarantee that it will catch you up that day, and you may find yourself stranded in the wilderness. Such a delay is rapidly becoming a thing of the past, and, as a rule, the train makes a very good journey. The train ride is full of interest to the traveller. The types of various nations seen at the stations and along the route, and the numerous herds of wild animals, prove a source of wonder and amusement, though there are great tracts of country in which no sign of life at all can be seen. On our arrival at Ugowe Bay, in all probability, a steamer will be found waiting. There are other names applied to this bay. One is Port Florence, another is Kisumu, but they all refer to the same place, which is a large bay forty-five miles long in Kavirondo.

It is here we get our first glimpse of the great Victoria Lake, or Nyanza, as the natives call a lake. It is well known by now that the lake is sufficiently big to put into it the whole of Ireland. Roughly speaking it is miles in circumference, with an area of square miles. It is fresh water, and subject to very severe storms indeed. There is, of course, no tide, but the lake is subject to rises and falls of as much as ten feet, probably due to rainfall ; but it is difficult to understand some of the high-water marks on the rocks in various parts. Some people have thought that these rises take place in a sort of cycle of years. The middle of the lake has only lately been explored.

All round near the shores are islands of various sizes, mostly inhabited and very fertile, the scenery for the most part being tropical. The lake abounds in fish, many very large and very good eating, and the natives, although catching a great deal near the shores, rarely venture on deep-sea fishing. They fish both with line and traps. There are many hippopotami and crocodiles. The hippopotamus is not dangerous to life if left alone, though sometimes attacking canoes with very disastrous results. It appears to be not generally known that crocodiles perpetuate the species by laying eggs, about the size of an ordinary duck's egg, with very tough shells. These are laid in holes scraped in the sand, and hatched by the heat of the sun. A crocodile will lay from eighty to one hundred and twenty in one batch. Fortunately few of these arrive at maturity, as there are numerous birds, fish, and crocodiles awaiting the young when they emerge from the shells, but one can rarely go on the lake for even a very short distance without seeing crocodiles, and it is very inadvisable to bathe in shallow waters.

The natives on these islands are very clever at making canoes. People have an idea that because they are only sewn together these canoes do not last long. It merely means that they require re-sewing, for they are only sewn together with the fibre of a palm-tree. The boards will last as long as twenty years. The boats cannot really sink even if full of water. They would if the crew stayed in, but at the first sign of swamping the crew jump out into the water, and cling to the edge of the canoe until the storm abates. Then, one by one, the men carefully get in, each baling out in turn a little water, and then on they go. The natives would not travel in a canoe which did not leak, as they consider it would not go well without water in the bottom to balance it, and one man's business is always to be baling out.

For European travellers and chiefs a bridge of twigs, covered with grass, is spread over the water in the bottom of the canoe, and travelling can be made fairly comfortable by means of bales of bedding and other packages as back-rests. The paddlers face the way they are going, and keep up a dismal chant most of the time, which encourages them to paddle more or less in time. Crossing the lake from Ugowe Bay to Entebe by steamer occupies the greater part of two days, one night being spent at anchor, as the narrow passages between some of these islands are very dangerous to traverse at night. Two new railway steamers were launched in , and travelling is now fairly comfortable. The line of the equator is crossed en route, so it goes without saying that in Uganda there is always twelve hours’ sunlight and eleven hours’ darkness, with two half hours of what may be called twilight dividing the two. In March and September there is absolutely no shadow at noon, the sun being immediately overhead.

There are no seasons in Uganda, roughly speaking. It is always hot, and it has been said that the heat penetrates into the ground six feet all the year round, as against one foot in England, in July and August. There are what are called rainy seasons, commencing about March and September, but they are very uncertain, and, even in the rainy seasons, rain rarely falls continuously for more than a few hours. Rain is plentiful most of the year, June and December being the only really dry months. Hailstorms are frequent, and sometimes severe. Some thirty years ago, the natives say, there was a terrible storm of hail, and the hailstones remained on the ground for three days. Numbers of people were killed, and numerous others died from cold. Many huts were knocked down by the force of the stones, and most of the plantations very severely damaged. Thunder-storms are frequent, and often terrific, houses being constantly struck by lightning and destroyed.

It does not seem as though Uganda proper is a country for settlers, but probably the heat is not the greatest barrier to this. The elevation is high, over feet above sea-level, and probably the rarity of the atmosphere has something to do with the feeling of depression which one constantly experiences after four years’ residence in the country without a furlough. When the atmosphere is so rare, the lungs cannot perform their full amount of work, and the liver is called on to help, with the result that it cannot discharge its own functions properly, and indigestion and dyspepsia are the result.

Malaria is a great enemy and source of danger to life, the natives suffering a great deal from it, much more so in proportion than Europeans. No doubt it is passed on from natives to Europeans by mosquitoes. Professor Ross, of the Liverpool School of Medicine, is of opinion that malaria is conveyed almost entirely by mosquitoes; and that—if it is possible for Europeans to live entirely apart from natives, keeping them at a distance of fifty yards, and avoiding the neighbourhood of stagnant pools and open cisterns of every description—it is quite possible to live in these tropical climates without the least fear of malarial fever. We believe that it will be found that a great source of danger is the planting of bananas and Indian corn near to the dwelling, as mosquitoes undoubtedly breed in such plants, which hold a great deal of moisture. The worst form of malaria, usually called black-water fever, is apparently conveyed only by the mosquitoes called Culexanopheles, and only the female can convey it. She makes a feed of blood during the breeding-season from a native or other person infected with malaria, and then injects the parasites into some other victim from whom she makes a second meal.

These are not the only difficulties in the way of colonisation. Insect enemies to plant life and cultivation of cereals are very numerous. Many experiments have ended disastrously, but the British Administration is making every effort to find out what productions can most suitably be grown. It seems at present as though the country called East Africa, that is, east of the lake, is most suitable for colonisation by Europeans, both from a health point of view, and that of remuneration for their labours as planters, though on the highlands of the Mau escarpment, feet, we have heard of cases of mountain sickness.

The disease called sleeping sickness, which has of late wrought such havoc amongst the natives, is of a most distressing character. It has been found that a parasite carried by a species of tsetse fly which attacks human beings is responsible for the disease. The parasite was first found in the fluid surrounding the spinal cord, hence the brain is the first vital organ attacked.

Let us now take a look at Entebe. From the steamer the place presents a very charming appearance, with its wealth of foliage extending well to the water-edge, its forest scenery, and the varied collection of dwellings. Entebe is a long isthmus, and is peopled chiefly by Europeans connected with the Government, traders, Indians, and Goanese. European traders have not, so far, been a great success in Uganda, and trade is, at present, mostly in the hands of an enterprising Indian or two. From the shore the view of the lake is equally pretty, and one only regrets that it is not possible to show these in their natural colours.

I need not describe in detail the Government of Uganda. It will suffice to say that at Entebe resides the representative of his Majesty's Government. There are also a number of sub-commissioners in charge of districts, and a small army of clerks, accountants, store-keepers, and mechanics, numbering in all over one hundred, in Uganda proper.

King’s Road, from Mengo to Namirembe, (The White Fence on summit of Hill is the King’s Lubiri.)

Uganda is a Protectorate, not a colony, and has its own native parliament, which makes all laws, subject to the approval of the Commissioner.

Let us pass on, now, to Mengo. We can go by cycle or on foot. There is an almost level cycle road of some twenty-two miles going round the hills, the eighteen-mile foot road, as is usual in Uganda, going over the top of them all, and making travelling very laborious.

Arrived at Mengo, the traveller is always much impressed by the great King's Road. From the earliest recorded time the Baganda have always had roads to the main centers of their kingdom, and this road was made entirely by the natives without any instruction from Europeans. The white line across the top is the fence of the King's ‘lubiri’ (enclosure).

It may be asked, Where are the houses of the natives, of whom more than live in Mengo now? They can rarely be seen from the road, as the roads are bounded by reed fences, and each house is surrounded by a grove of plantains, banana, and wild fig-trees. The reed fences are not substantial, and, latterly, most natives have taken to making growing fences. It is only necessary to cut off the branch of a tree, or the upper half of the stem, stick it into the ground, and with the first rain it takes root and grows, so that a living fence is the simplest thing to propagate. The poles used to hold the telegraph wires in Usoga and Uganda were saplings, which have taken root and are now good growing trees. Similar poles stuck into the ground as table-legs occasionally take root and produce leaves.

The ordinary food of the natives is plantains. The difference between plantains and bananas is tantamount to that between cooking and eating apples. In appearance they are the same. Indeed, it is almost impossible to tell the difference when seeing a plantain and banana growing side by side. An idea of the taste of plantains may be gathered by mixing together a potato, a turnip, and an artichoke. They are usually steamed in their own leaves, and the natives who can get two meals a day, at noon and at evening, are perfectly happy. Some varieties are sweet, but the natives do not care much for these. There are also sweet bananas, of which the country produces many excellent varieties, but they are chiefly used for making beer, by squeezing out the juice and fermenting it with millet seeds, which the natives call ‘mwembe,’ the beer thus made being called ‘mwenge,’ An unfermented kind is much drunk, and is called ‘mubisi,’ but this turns sour in the stomach if a quantity is drunk. They grow a great quantity of sweet potatoes, which they use chiefly in time of drought, for the plantain and banana will only produce fruit when supplied with plenty of moisture. In addition, they have a variety of vegetables similar to spinach, marrow, beans, and peas of an inferior quality. They eat meat when they can get it, but most of them are too poor to afford this indulgence often.

Chapter 2

Chapter II

The King and His Poeple

Before going further we will introduce you to the King of the country, Daudi Cwa (pronounced Chwa; Daudi means David).

He is a son of Mwanga, and the grandson of Mtesa. I must not pass over Mwanga, the King's father. It will be remembered that he ran away from his capital in , and, after spending a little time with the Germans south of Uganda, escaped from them. He finally joined King Kaberega, his old Munyoro enemy, and they together joined hands with the remnant of the Soudanese mutineers. In the end they were captured by the troops of the Government, and Mwanga, with Kaberega, was till a prisoner in the Seychelles Islands, where he received an allowance of some one hundred rupees per month from the British Government. He wrote letters at various times entreating his chiefs to pity him and get him restored to his throne, but could find no sympathy. The country on the whole was only too glad to be rid of him, though we know perfectly well there are many who would have been very glad to see him restored, and, with him, the old state of things. Their hopes have, however, been destroyed, as Mwanga died in the Seychelles in May, . He was born in , and was only eighteen when Mtesa died. Mtesa appointed him as his successor. The eldest son was not necessarily heir to the throne. Each king was, as a rule, appointed by his predecessor. Mwanga and Kiwewa were the only two sons of Mtesa allowed out of prison. All the others were kept in captivity, so that when the new king came to the throne, he could easily put his brothers to death. Mtesa always said that Mwanga was a most gentle and obedient son. Apparently in those days he was not the vicious character he turned out to be later on, for he did not kill his brothers when he ascended the throne. Kalema, another brother, did, however, murder his kinsmen. He had them all conveyed to an island, or, rather, a raised piece of land in Budo, some eight miles from Mengo, around which he dug an enormous trench. Across the trench was thrown a pole, which served as a bridge to convey a very small amount of food. When the poor wretches were half starved he threw fire across, burning the grass huts in which they were living, and as the inmates crawled out he shot at them and killed them, some half-dozen in all. Mwanga's later disposition was undoubtedly the result of the practice of polygamy and other sins.

Daudi Cwa was born on August , , and commenced to reign on August , . King Daudi is a very nice little boy, and is growing up, we trust, a good Christian. He feels his position, and the natives respect him very highly indeed, and consider it a great honour to work for the king. On anniversaries of his birthday, and coronation day, a guard of honour of Indian troops is usually sent up to his enclosure, and the king is taken round by the European official in charge of the district to inspect the troops. He usually makes on such occasions a feast for European residents, for whom he prepares tables, knives and forks, and as many civilised dishes as he can muster.

The government is at present in the hands of three regents appointed by the British Administration, Apolo, the Katikiro (Prime Minister who visited England), being the head; Zakaria Kizito, or Kisingiri, being the second, and the third, Stanilas Mugwania, a Romanist. These men have charge of the king until he attains his majority at the age of eighteen years. There is a native council of representatives who constitute a sort of parliament, in which all native laws are drawn up and then submitted for the approval of the commissioner, and this council discusses affairs once a week with an officer of the Administration. The king presides over the council at times, and always on state occasions sits on his chair attired in his regal robes. Chiefs of high rank may sit on a chair or a bench in the council, but the majority sit on the ground, which is always covered with a plentiful supply of fresh grass.

In Mwanga's days, certainly up to , no one but Europeans dare sit on a chair in his presence, and no native dare let it be known that he had a chair in his possession. One or two daring spirits tried this, but their heads were cut off. When the king visited any chief he was invariably shown into an empty room, which each chief always kept for his visitors, so that they might not cast covetous eyes on his belongings. One chief possessed a stool, and one of his serfs happened to sit on it. He was promptly beheaded by his chief, who said that any one sufficiently assuming to sit on his stool would not be long before he was usurping his position altogether, and was much better out of the way.

Some idea of the state of society in the king’s palace may be gathered from the fact that the king’s mother (the Namasole) had to be removed entirely from the palace, and made to live in a separate house some two miles away. Her character was of such a nature, and she drank so immoderately, that her influence was too bad for her young son. He was in charge of an old nurse, but lately all women servants have been expelled from the enclosure, only men and boys being allowed to serve the king. His education is being attended to spiritually by Ham Mukasa, who recently accompanied the Katikiro to England, and his education in general by two of the teachers trained in the Boys’ School, Mengo. He is learning English, reading, writing, and arithmetic.