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The Family Kitchen Gardener

Robert Buist · 1856

78,802 words · about 5 h 31 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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About this book

Author
Robert Buist
Language
English
Published
1856
Length
78,802 words · about 5 h 31 min
Sections
130 reader sections
Text
Digital text
Rights
Public domain

 

Contents (130)
  1. Front matter about 3 min
  2. Cow Cabbage about 3 min
  3. Portugal Cabbage about 3 min
  4. Preface about 3 min
  5. Garden about 3 min
  6. Vegetable Garden about 3 min
  7. Manures about 2 min
  8. Rotation of Crops about 1 min
  9. Implements about 7 min
  10. Garden Seeds for Half an Acre about 1 min
  11. Artichoke about 3 min
  12. Asparagus about 6 min
  13. Basil about 1 min
  14. Beans about 5 min
  15. Beet about 3 min
  16. Borecole under 1 min
  17. Broccoli about 2 min
  18. Brussels Sprouts about 1 min
  19. Burnet under 1 min
  20. Cabbage about 9 min
  21. Cardoon about 1 min
  22. Carrot about 3 min
  23. Cauliflower about 3 min
  24. Celery about 4 min
  25. Celeriac under 1 min
  26. Chervil about 1 min
  27. Chive about 1 min
  28. Turnip-rooted Celery under 1 min
  29. Corn Salad about 1 min
  30. Fetticus about 1 min
  31. Lambs' Lettuce about 1 min
  32. Cress about 1 min
  33. Cucumber about 7 min
  34. Egg Plant about 2 min
  35. Endive about 3 min
  36. Fennel about 1 min
  37. Garlic about 1 min
  38. Horseradish about 2 min
  39. Indian Corn about 1 min
  40. Indian Cress about 1 min
  41. Nasturtium about 1 min
  42. Jerusalem Artichoke about 1 min
  43. Leek about 2 min
  44. Lettuce about 6 min
  45. Marjoram about 1 min
  46. Melon about 6 min
  47. Mint about 2 min
  48. Morel about 1 min
  49. Mushroom about 7 min
  50. Mustard about 2 min
  51. New Zealand Spinach about 1 min
  52. Onion about 8 min
  53. Ochro about 1 min
  54. Okra about 1 min
  55. Parsley about 2 min
  56. Parsnep about 2 min
  57. Pea about 9 min
  58. Pepper about 1 min
  59. Potato about 11 min
  60. Pumpkin under 1 min
  61. Radish about 4 min
  62. Rhubarb about 9 min
  63. Oyster Plant about 1 min
  64. Salsafy about 1 min
  65. Scorzonera under 1 min
  66. Sea-Kale about 5 min
  67. Shallot about 1 min
  68. Skirret about 1 min
  69. Spinach about 3 min
  70. Squash about 1 min
  71. Silver Beet about 1 min
  72. Swiss Chard about 1 min
  73. Tarragon about 1 min
  74. Thyme about 1 min
  75. Tomato about 4 min
  76. Truffle about 1 min
  77. Swede Turnip about 5 min
  78. Turnip about 5 min
  79. Rutabaga about 4 min
  80. Vegetable Marrow about 1 min
  81. Water Cress about 1 min
  82. American Cress under 1 min
  83. Winter Cress under 1 min
  84. Angelica about 1 min
  85. Anise-seed under 1 min
  86. Balm about 1 min
  87. Blessed Thistle about 1 min
  88. Borage about 1 min
  89. Caraway under 1 min
  90. Chamomile under 1 min
  91. Clary under 1 min
  92. Coriander under 1 min
  93. Dill under 1 min
  94. Elecampane under 1 min
  95. Horehound about 1 min
  96. Hyssop about 1 min
  97. Lavender under 1 min
  98. Pennyroyal under 1 min
  99. Peppermint about 1 min
  100. Rosemary under 1 min
  101. Rue about 1 min
  102. Sage about 1 min
  103. Scurvy Grass under 1 min
  104. Sorrel under 1 min
  105. Tansy under 1 min
  106. Application of remarks to various parts of the United States about 1 min
  107. Wormwood under 1 min
  108. Fruits about 12 min
  109. Grafting about 3 min
  110. Budding about 6 min
  111. Almond about 1 min
  112. Apple about 12 min
  113. Apricot about 3 min
  114. Cherry about 5 min
  115. Currant about 3 min
  116. Fig about 3 min
  117. Filbert about 1 min
  118. Nuts about 1 min
  119. Gooseberry about 2 min
  120. Grape about 8 min
  121. Grape Vine about 8 min
  122. Foreign Grape about 14 min
  123. Grapery about 1 min
  124. Nectarine about 1 min
  125. Peach about 5 min
  126. Pear about 8 min
  127. Plum about 5 min
  128. Quince about 2 min
  129. Raspberry about 3 min
  130. Strawberry about 6 min

Continue:

Front matter

THE FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER, CONTAINING PLAIN AND ACCURATE DESCRIPTIONS OF ALL THE DIFFERENT SPECIES AND VARIETIES OF CULINARY VEGETABLES; WITH THEIR BOTANICAL, ENGLISH, FRENCH, AND GERMAN NAMES, ALPHABETICALL; ARRANGED, AND THE BEST MODE OF CULTIVATING THEM, IN THE GARDEN OR UNDER GLASS; WITH A DESCRIPTION OF IMPLEMENTS AND MEDICINAL HERBS IN GENERAL USE. ALSO, DESCRIPTIONS AND CHARACTERS OF THE MOST SELECT FRUITS, THEIR MANAGEMENT, PROPAGATION, ETC. ILLUSTRATED WITH TWENTY-FIVE ENGRAVINGS. BY ROBERT BUIST, AUTHOR OF THE AMERICAN FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY, ROSE MANUAL, ETC. NEW YORK: C. M. SAXTON & CO., AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHERS, 1856

Gardening is one of these occupations that combines pleasure with healthful employment. Reason and history unite in regarding it as the first pursuit that engaged the attention of man.

The fruits of the Garden are appreciated by all, and contribute much to the pleasures and comforts of life. But many possess gardens unworthy of the name: for want of a knowledge of their management they are unable, in season, to supply the wants of their own table. To remedy this deficiency is the object of this compendium. Into it nothing has been admitted that is not of the most practical character. It may be received as the result of thirty years’ experience and observation on the cultivation of vegetables and fruits. To have given the reason for many of the operations recommended, or the process by which certain conclusions have been arrived at, would have enlarged the volume without adding to the value of the advice. It has been the object of the author to describe the preparation of the soil, the mode of culture, and the best varieties of every fruit or vegetable for market or family supply, in the plainest language, and most concise terms. The subjects are arranged in alphabetical order, so that any one, in an instant, for any part of the United States, may see how to cultivate, when and what to sow, and when to reap. Hitherto the works on this subject have been merely repetitions of European writers, not at all adapted to our climate; or when compiled with some degree of consideration as to that, yet simply the names of vegetables have been given, allowing the gardener or amateur, unguided, to select whatever might strike his fancy, without enabling him to supply his wants. In this Manual will be found a short but faithful description of the best vegetables and fruits; their period of maturity or their relative earliness or lateness, with their Botanical, English, French, and German names—a facility not met with in any similar work we have ever seen.

Cow Cabbage

Gardening is one of these occupations that combines pleasure with healthful employment. Reason and history unite in regarding it as the first pursuit that engaged the attention of man.

The fruits of the Garden are appreciated by all, and contribute much to the pleasures and comforts of life. But many possess gardens unworthy of the name: for want of a knowledge of their management they are unable, in season, to supply the wants of their own table. To remedy this deficiency is the object of this compendium. Into it nothing has been admitted that is not of the most practical character. It may be received as the result of thirty years’ experience and observation on the cultivation of vegetables and fruits. To have given the reason for many of the operations recommended, or the process by which certain conclusions have been arrived at, would have enlarged the volume without adding to the value of the advice. It has been the object of the author to describe the preparation of the soil, the mode of culture, and the best varieties of every fruit or vegetable for market or family supply, in the plainest language, and most concise terms. The subjects are arranged in alphabetical order, so that any one, in an instant, for any part of the United States, may see how to cultivate, when and what to sow, and when to reap. Hitherto the works on this subject have been merely repetitions of European writers, not at all adapted to our climate; or when compiled with some degree of consideration as to that, yet simply the names of vegetables have been given, allowing the gardener or amateur, unguided, to select whatever might strike his fancy, without enabling him to supply his wants. In this Manual will be found a short but faithful description of the best vegetables and fruits; their period of maturity or their relative earliness or lateness, with their Botanical, English, French, and German names—a facility not met with in any similar work we have ever seen.

We have omitted a few vegetables of a coarse description, principally raised for cattle, by field culture. Among which are the Portugal, and Cow Cabbage. The former appeared lately as a new vegetable, under the name of Couve Tronchuda, though cultivated twenty years ago under the former name. The latter, also an old vegetable, created some excitement a few years ago; but the mania having died away, it finds its merited place.

The Fruits have been arranged in the order of their attaining maturity, and only the best in their season have been selected. It is presumed that the list will be found a certain guide to those who wish to grow only the best and most prolific sorts. Some selection of this kind has for some time been imperatively called for, by the wants of the gardener, farmer, and amateur, the multiplicity of sorts in the larger works and catalogues rendering them nearly useless to those who merely wish to know those kinds adapted for family or market supply. In illustrating our subject we have endeavored to avoid the use of all technical words, and to make every thing so plain that it can be comprehended by the most illiterate.

In conclusion, if this little manual be the means of diffusing a knowledge of vegetable culture more generally,—of adding to the pleasures of rural life,—of increasing the interest taken in horticultural pursuits; or guiding the gentleman, farmer, or student, in the occupation of his leisure hours, it will have attained the object of

The Author.

Philadelphia, Feb., 1847.

Portugal Cabbage

Gardening is one of these occupations that combines pleasure with healthful employment. Reason and history unite in regarding it as the first pursuit that engaged the attention of man.

The fruits of the Garden are appreciated by all, and contribute much to the pleasures and comforts of life. But many possess gardens unworthy of the name: for want of a knowledge of their management they are unable, in season, to supply the wants of their own table. To remedy this deficiency is the object of this compendium. Into it nothing has been admitted that is not of the most practical character. It may be received as the result of thirty years’ experience and observation on the cultivation of vegetables and fruits. To have given the reason for many of the operations recommended, or the process by which certain conclusions have been arrived at, would have enlarged the volume without adding to the value of the advice. It has been the object of the author to describe the preparation of the soil, the mode of culture, and the best varieties of every fruit or vegetable for market or family supply, in the plainest language, and most concise terms. The subjects are arranged in alphabetical order, so that any one, in an instant, for any part of the United States, may see how to cultivate, when and what to sow, and when to reap. Hitherto the works on this subject have been merely repetitions of European writers, not at all adapted to our climate; or when compiled with some degree of consideration as to that, yet simply the names of vegetables have been given, allowing the gardener or amateur, unguided, to select whatever might strike his fancy, without enabling him to supply his wants. In this Manual will be found a short but faithful description of the best vegetables and fruits; their period of maturity or their relative earliness or lateness, with their Botanical, English, French, and German names—a facility not met with in any similar work we have ever seen.

We have omitted a few vegetables of a coarse description, principally raised for cattle, by field culture. Among which are the Portugal, and Cow Cabbage. The former appeared lately as a new vegetable, under the name of Couve Tronchuda, though cultivated twenty years ago under the former name. The latter, also an old vegetable, created some excitement a few years ago; but the mania having died away, it finds its merited place.

The Fruits have been arranged in the order of their attaining maturity, and only the best in their season have been selected. It is presumed that the list will be found a certain guide to those who wish to grow only the best and most prolific sorts. Some selection of this kind has for some time been imperatively called for, by the wants of the gardener, farmer, and amateur, the multiplicity of sorts in the larger works and catalogues rendering them nearly useless to those who merely wish to know those kinds adapted for family or market supply. In illustrating our subject we have endeavored to avoid the use of all technical words, and to make every thing so plain that it can be comprehended by the most illiterate.

In conclusion, if this little manual be the means of diffusing a knowledge of vegetable culture more generally,—of adding to the pleasures of rural life,—of increasing the interest taken in horticultural pursuits; or guiding the gentleman, farmer, or student, in the occupation of his leisure hours, it will have attained the object of

The Author.

Philadelphia, Feb., 1847.

Preface

Gardening is one of these occupations that combines pleasure with healthful employment. Reason and history unite in regarding it as the first pursuit that engaged the attention of man.

The fruits of the Garden are appreciated by all, and contribute much to the pleasures and comforts of life. But many possess gardens unworthy of the name: for want of a knowledge of their management they are unable, in season, to supply the wants of their own table. To remedy this deficiency is the object of this compendium. Into it nothing has been admitted that is not of the most practical character. It may be received as the result of thirty years’ experience and observation on the cultivation of vegetables and fruits. To have given the reason for many of the operations recommended, or the process by which certain conclusions have been arrived at, would have enlarged the volume without adding to the value of the advice. It has been the object of the author to describe the preparation of the soil, the mode of culture, and the best varieties of every fruit or vegetable for market or family supply, in the plainest language, and most concise terms. The subjects are arranged in alphabetical order, so that any one, in an instant, for any part of the United States, may see how to cultivate, when and what to sow, and when to reap. Hitherto the works on this subject have been merely repetitions of European writers, not at all adapted to our climate; or when compiled with some degree of consideration as to that, yet simply the names of vegetables have been given, allowing the gardener or amateur, unguided, to select whatever might strike his fancy, without enabling him to supply his wants. In this Manual will be found a short but faithful description of the best vegetables and fruits; their period of maturity or their relative earliness or lateness, with their Botanical, English, French, and German names—a facility not met with in any similar work we have ever seen.

We have omitted a few vegetables of a coarse description, principally raised for cattle, by field culture. Among which are the Portugal, and Cow Cabbage. The former appeared lately as a new vegetable, under the name of Couve Tronchuda, though cultivated twenty years ago under the former name. The latter, also an old vegetable, created some excitement a few years ago; but the mania having died away, it finds its merited place.

The Fruits have been arranged in the order of their attaining maturity, and only the best in their season have been selected. It is presumed that the list will be found a certain guide to those who wish to grow only the best and most prolific sorts. Some selection of this kind has for some time been imperatively called for, by the wants of the gardener, farmer, and amateur, the multiplicity of sorts in the larger works and catalogues rendering them nearly useless to those who merely wish to know those kinds adapted for family or market supply. In illustrating our subject we have endeavored to avoid the use of all technical words, and to make every thing so plain that it can be comprehended by the most illiterate.

In conclusion, if this little manual be the means of diffusing a knowledge of vegetable culture more generally,—of adding to the pleasures of rural life,—of increasing the interest taken in horticultural pursuits; or guiding the gentleman, farmer, or student, in the occupation of his leisure hours, it will have attained the object of

The Author.

Philadelphia, Feb., 1847.

Garden

THE FORMATION OF A VEGETABLE OR KITCHEN GARDEN, &c.

Before proceeding with the subject of vegetable culture, the attention of the reader is requested to some remarks on the formation of a Kitchen Garden. This subject is forced upon us by a knowledge of how much labor and money are expended in producing one misplaced, badly designed, and unproductive—a most unpleasant attendant upon a country life; when, by the same labor and expense, one could have been obtained that would have yielded liberally every pleasure, every comfort, and even every luxury for a bountiful table.

The situation most suitable is a very gentle inclination toward the east or south-east, that it may have all the advantages of the morning sun. The next preferable exposure is south or south-west; if sheltered from the north or north-west, so much the better. However, avoid the neighborhood of large and spreading trees, as their roots will exhaust the soil, and their shade injure the crops.

In selecting the ground, it is of vast importance to have the soil of a healthy quality, being mellow, dry, and capable of being worked with the spade. The best soils are of a friable and loamy texture; the worst, those of a very light sandy or of a stiff clayey description.

If the bottom or subsoil be retentive, trench the ground at least eighteen inches deep: good vegetables can never be produced on sour soil, nor on thin soil of only a few inches depth. Care and attention are necessary in trenching, as on the proper disposition at first the after good will follow. I most decidedly condemn the mode of trenching ground generally recommended; that is, to bury the top spit, and turn up the cold, sour subsoil. Experience has taught me another lesson: Open the first trench two feet wide, by putting aside the top spit spade deep; then turn up the bottom, where it lies, at least the full depth of the spade, in the same manner as in digging; throw the top of the next trench on the top of the first subsoil, and so on, till the whole is finished. The general method of trenching is to turn the top soil down and the subsoil up. This is attended with evil consequences, as many years will elapse before the bad soil, which has been turned up, can be made equal to the good soil, which has been turned down.

Another point we call attention to—the inclination of the soil. Some authors in this country merely publish the ideas of those of Europe, without regard to their applicability to this climate, and have recommended an inclination of one foot in from fifteen to twenty feet. Such a declivity would, during our heavy rains, sweep soil, manure, seeds, &c., to the lowest ground. An inclination of one foot in forty, or merely sufficient to carry off the water, is all that is requisite. However, the means have frequently to be adapted to the ends. If the situation be necessarily on the side of a rising ground, throw it at once into terraces of any required breadth. Let the steeps be covered with turf, to prevent the washing away of the soil, and arrange the planes into sub-divisions for culture.

The shape or figure of a Garden is a point of little consequence, though the square, or any form approaching it, is the best and most convenient. The boundary lines may be of any form, but the interior sub-divisions work to the best advantage in even lines. With regard to size, that, of course, must de- pend upon the number of the family, and may vary from a quarter to a whole acre. The walks may be from three to six feet wide, straight or serpentine—the former preferred, however. Where fancy may dictate, the latter can be adopted, cropping the curves of the ground with flowers, fancy plants, or choice fruits.

Vegetable Garden

THE FORMATION OF A VEGETABLE OR KITCHEN GARDEN, &c.

Before proceeding with the subject of vegetable culture, the attention of the reader is requested to some remarks on the formation of a Kitchen Garden. This subject is forced upon us by a knowledge of how much labor and money are expended in producing one misplaced, badly designed, and unproductive—a most unpleasant attendant upon a country life; when, by the same labor and expense, one could have been obtained that would have yielded liberally every pleasure, every comfort, and even every luxury for a bountiful table.

The situation most suitable is a very gentle inclination toward the east or south-east, that it may have all the advantages of the morning sun. The next preferable exposure is south or south-west; if sheltered from the north or north-west, so much the better. However, avoid the neighborhood of large and spreading trees, as their roots will exhaust the soil, and their shade injure the crops.

In selecting the ground, it is of vast importance to have the soil of a healthy quality, being mellow, dry, and capable of being worked with the spade. The best soils are of a friable and loamy texture; the worst, those of a very light sandy or of a stiff clayey description.

If the bottom or subsoil be retentive, trench the ground at least eighteen inches deep: good vegetables can never be produced on sour soil, nor on thin soil of only a few inches depth. Care and attention are necessary in trenching, as on the proper disposition at first the after good will follow. I most decidedly condemn the mode of trenching ground generally recommended; that is, to bury the top spit, and turn up the cold, sour subsoil. Experience has taught me another lesson: Open the first trench two feet wide, by putting aside the top spit spade deep; then turn up the bottom, where it lies, at least the full depth of the spade, in the same manner as in digging; throw the top of the next trench on the top of the first subsoil, and so on, till the whole is finished. The general method of trenching is to turn the top soil down and the subsoil up. This is attended with evil consequences, as many years will elapse before the bad soil, which has been turned up, can be made equal to the good soil, which has been turned down.

Another point we call attention to—the inclination of the soil. Some authors in this country merely publish the ideas of those of Europe, without regard to their applicability to this climate, and have recommended an inclination of one foot in from fifteen to twenty feet. Such a declivity would, during our heavy rains, sweep soil, manure, seeds, &c., to the lowest ground. An inclination of one foot in forty, or merely sufficient to carry off the water, is all that is requisite. However, the means have frequently to be adapted to the ends. If the situation be necessarily on the side of a rising ground, throw it at once into terraces of any required breadth. Let the steeps be covered with turf, to prevent the washing away of the soil, and arrange the planes into sub-divisions for culture.

The shape or figure of a Garden is a point of little consequence, though the square, or any form approaching it, is the best and most convenient. The boundary lines may be of any form, but the interior sub-divisions work to the best advantage in even lines. With regard to size, that, of course, must de- pend upon the number of the family, and may vary from a quarter to a whole acre. The walks may be from three to six feet wide, straight or serpentine—the former preferred, however. Where fancy may dictate, the latter can be adopted, cropping the curves of the ground with flowers, fancy plants, or choice fruits.

Manures

Of Manures.—We may here premise that no garden will be worth its culture, unless well supplied with manure every year. The present day is a period of considerable agitation on this all important subject. We have tried several of the new manures, some of them to our loss and (when we have departed from the stable yard) few to our advantage. In Europe great attention has been given to this subject, and many specifics recommended, which, when tried, have had frequently uncertain results, though in particular cases they have been crowned with success. In this country, however, our resources of domestic materials are abundant, and on every farm and garden much goes to waste. All weeds and useless vegetables, sweepings of walks, &c., should be dug into the ground at once. The dung of domestic birds, compounded with fresh soil, is a great renovator; but, if applied by itself, use it sparingly. Guano can only be safely applied in solution, one pound to five gallons of water—the liquid to be used when the vegetables are in a growing state. Gypsum is beneficial, but not of any duration. Poudrette is a very active manure, highly exciting to early crops. The safest and best of all manures are the combined deposits of the horse, the cow, and the pig; these, thrown into a heap to ferment, saturating it with all the soap-suds and urine that can be collected, will form the best, the safest, and most permanent manure, not equalled by any or all of the nostrums of the age. It may be applied at the rate of from twenty to thirty tous per acre. This quantity is not too much, when a garden is regularly cultivated. It requires no adept in vegetable culture to take at least two crops a year from the ground. Lime is not genial to the growth of vegetables; its principal function as a manure appears to be, to dissolve the organic matter in the soil and facilitate its decay. Soils of a sour, heavy nature, full of thready, undecomposed vegetable fibre, are greatly benefited by a dressing of air-slacked lime; but on rich soils, well cultivated, its effects are unfavorable to the growth of culinary vegetables.

Rotation of Crops

Rotation of Crops.—I admit that the same vegetable can be grown upon the same spot with success, year after year, but I also assert that a rotation of crops will be more productive, which is of great importance in culinary gardening; therefore never grow exhausting crops in succession. Substitute those alternately of as different roots and constitution as possible. Keep these objects in view, and even with ordinary management we vouch for a crop. Assiduity in the destruction of weeds, neatness and cleanliness, a constant stirring of the soil, digging deep and manuring freely, must be the constant companions of the gardener; making the business a source of pleasure, profit and advantage to himself, and an object of admiration to others.

Implements

ON IMPLEMENTS.

It is not our intention to go into a detail of all the useful articles connected with the culture of the garden, which would take us beyond our limits. Our object will be only to point out those most useful and essential to carry on the cultivation of the soil. The materials of which they are composed are chiefly of iron and wood; the best quality of both should be used, nothing purchased merely for its being cheap. The cheapest is the best and most durable to accomplish the end.

The spade is a very common tool, and should be of steel, with a hickory or ash handle, having two rivets through its head. No. 2, of the manufactory, is the most convenient size. Some American spades are equal to any of British manufacture.

The Rake (Fig. 1) should be of the best wrought iron, with teeth about 2½ inches long and 1½ apart. The head is of any size, from six to twenty inches. There are also rakes of malleable iron, and wooden rakes with stock teeth: the latter sort are very convenient for rough ground. The handle should be round, made of pine, or any other light wood, and from six to eight feet long.

Beet Rake (Fig. 2). This very useful implement is composed of hard wood, with steel teeth, obtusely pointed, about two inches wide, five inches bong, and from nine to twelve inches apart. It is exceedingly useful for drawing drills in which to sow Beets, Carrots, Onions, and all small seeds or roots. In using it, strain the line, and draw with some strength; when three drills will be made at once, saving the labor of moving the line so frequently as when the work is accomplished by the hoe.

Hoes are of many and varied descriptions, sizes and shapes. Fig. 3 gives an idea of the most useful. They should be of the very best of steel, with rather strong, round handles, five feet long. They are in sizes from three to ten inches. Those of three, five, seven and nine inches are generally used.

Pronged Hoes, Fig. 4, are very useful, indeed indispensable, for stirring the soil and destroying weeds. They are of steel or malleable iron; the latter generally used, though the former is preferable; handles four and a half feet long.

The Dutch, or Scuffle Hoe, Fig. 5, is very useful for cleaning walks and cutting weeds where the ground is of a light nature. It is also called a Thrust Hoe (being used by pushing from you) in contradistinction to the Draw Hoe, Fig. 3., which is best adapted for all heavy work.

The Reel and Line, Fig 6. The reel is of wood or iron; the latter is preferable. It consists of two parts, the shank and the head. The head turns round on the shank and winds up the line or cord, which can be of any length.

The Trowel, Fig. 7, is very useful for removing plants and lifting them with balls of earth for transplanting. It should be of the best iron or steel, with a square socket into the handle, and from five to nine inches long, exclusive of the handle.

The Dibber is a short piece of round wood, generally made from an old spade or shovel handle, about one and a half feet long, obtusely pointed, frequently shod with iron on the one end, and conveniently formed for the hand on the other. It should be well made, as it is of very general use, and if iron-shod, will last half a century.

Garden Watering-pot.—Of this utensil there are several sizes; those that hold from three to four gallons are of the proper dimensions; they should be made of the best double tin, having two roses—the one pierced with holes the twentieth, the other the fortieth part of an inch. Keep them well painted, and when not in use, the mouth downwards.

The Grass-edging Iron or Knife, Fig. 8, is for cutting the turf of grass borders or walks. It should be of the very best steel, with a round, strong handle, about three and a half feet long.

Garden Hook, Fig. 9, for dressing hedges, made of the very best steel, having a handle of an oval form, of strong wood, 3½ feet long, and of a small size, that the hand may conveniently grasp it

Garden Shears, Fig. 10, are of various sizes, from six to twelve inch blades, and used for cutting edgings of Box, clipping hedges, and many other purposes. They are of great variety and quality. The seven and nine-inch sizes are most convenient.

Ladies’ Shears, Fig. 11. These are of the very best material, neatly made, for the use of ladies who take a delight in gardening operations.

Grass-edging Shears, Fig. 12. These are made expressly for cutting grass-edgings, and have a wheel that rests on the walk while the shears trim off the grass. It is a very convenient and expeditious implement.

Hand-Glass, Fig. 13. These are made of red cedar, or cast iron. The latter is most neat and durable. It consists of two parts, the bottom and top. A useful utensil for growing seeds of early Celery, Tomato, Egg-plant, or any other article of early culture; also well adapted for covering Cauliflower plants where the winters are not very severe. When air is to be given to the plants enclosed, it is done by lifting up the top and replacing it diagonally; by this means air is freely admitted. A glass case may be made of any height with these hand-glasses, by merely placing the bottom frames one upon the other. Those we use are of cast iron, and cost $3.50 each.

A Sunk Pit, Fig. 14, is in part in the earth and partly above it, by forming sides of brick, stone, locust, chestnut, or cedar boards. On these, glass frames are sometimes placed, and at other times only mats or shutters. Such pits answer for the preservation of vegetables, such as Endive, Celery, Lettuce, Cauliflower, Broccoli, &c. Air is given on all occasions when it can be done with safety, by propping up the sash or shutters.

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