Some Account of New Zealand

Front matter

Some Account

of

Particularly

Chapter I

Some Account

of

New Zealand.

Chap. I.

Approach to the Coast of New Zealand—Entrance to the Bay of Islands—Caution to be observed in entering—Anchorage—The Natives—Appearances observable from the Ship—Supply of Refreshment.

Avoiding relations of little importance I shall begin by stating, that on the 18th of Sept. 1805, we made the North Cape of New Zealand, which lies in 34 deg. 25 min. south latitude, and in 173 deg. 4 min. of east longitude.

I have delineated the appearance of the саре, and also the entrance to the bay of islands, together with other lands in its vici

all of which are particularized, and the bearings and distances given in the accompanying plate.

The weather being squally, with hail, rain, and thunder, we did not think it prudent to stand very near in with the land; but shaping our course east by south, the land still in sight on the 20th, we made the entrance of the bay, which bore and appeared as I have represented.

The rock at the entrance, in figure like the perpendicular section of a sugar-loaf, has deep water steep-to. After passing this rock the harbour is open to you, and good anchorage may be found in almost every part. There is one caution, however, necessary to be observed, which is, that in the centre of the bay are three rocks, covered at high-water: we touched on one of them, but as the water is deep close around them, we wore without sustaining any injury: perhaps, on account of these rocks, it would be advisable to enter the bay at half-tide.

Previously to entering the harbour it would be right to have two anchors ready, to guard against the gusts of wind that some times rush down between the highlands with great violence.

Good anchorage may be found in most of the coves in eight fathoms.

Immediately upon coming to an anchor we were surrounded by a great number of canoes, each containing ten or a dozen natives.

In a country that has been described as being peopled by a race of cannibals, you are agreeably surprised by the appearance of the natives, who betray no symptom of savage ferocity, and by the patches of cultivated ground in the neighbourhood of the bay; on each of which is seen a well thatched hut, and a shed at a little distance.

These are the appearances observable from the ship; which, together with the abundant supply of fish and potatoes brought on board by the natives, tend for to remove the prejudices you have imbibed from former accounts of this country and its inhabitants.

It is to be understood, that my remarks have been confined to the bay of islands, and the shores immediately surrounding it: a general account of New Zealand is therefore not to be expected; but as I conceive this bay of the greatest importance to all persons navigating those seas, both from the excellence of the harbour, and the abundant and reasonable supply of refreshment it affords, I shall proceed to communicate the result of my observations.

Chapter II

Chap. II.

Particular Description of the Bay of Islands—Caution respecting the Natives—Country in the immediate Vicinity—Natural Productions.

The bay of islands, so called, in all probability, from a number of small rocky islets situated about its entrance, lies in 35 deg. 6 min. south latitude, and 174 deg. 43 min. of east longitude.

It is generally believed, that in entering this harbour there is no danger, but such as is readily perceptible. In going in, it is proper to keep to the starboard side, and to pass the section of the sugar-loaf at a very short distance.

The shores, as far as they are known, are so bold, that in beating into the bay, no danger is to be apprehended from standing very near in with them. A prudent navigator of course need not be told that the lead ought to be kept going.

It is advisable not to suffer any natives to come on board until the ship is brought to an anchor, as the novelty of their appearance is liable to take off the attention of the seamen from their duty, independently of their being much in the way during the working the ship.

When the ship is brought to an anchor it would be unfriendly to prevent their coming on board in moderate numbers; but it would be always prudent to be provided with fire-arms, and other means of defence, as at least one instance has occurred of their attempting to take a ship. Indeed, if appearances induced them to believe that there was a probability of their attempt succeeding, it is scarcely to be expected that they would not make it. The means of supplying themselves with an article they covet above all others, might prove an irresistable temptation: I allude to iron, a metal of which they are so well acquainted with the value, that they will barter almost any thing they possess to obtain it. However, as I propose to speak of the character of these people hereafter, I shall, in this chapter, confine myself to giving some account of the shores immediately surrounding, and in the vicinity of this bay.

The country in the immediate vicinity of the bay is almost destitute of wood, though there are immense forests at fifteen or twenty miles distance. The soil is a light vegetable mould, but rich, as it would appear by the vegetation it produces.

There are several villages in the neighbourhood, and a great number of straggling huts: At the head of almost every smallinlet, where canoes can be conveniently drawn on shore, a family, or sometimes two, are settled.

The circumjacent parts would undoubtedly afford great opportunities for botani- cal research; but independently of the advantages to be derived from that pursuit, the timber and flax produced here may at some future time be found highly valuable.

The timber of which we have the most knowledge at present is the fir, which grows here to an amazing height, and of such dimensions, as to admit of being formed into a canoe capable of containing thirty persons, or in other words, five and six feet diameter.

Their weapons of war prove the existence of a hard wood somewhat similar to lignum vitæ growing in this country. This tree is more than a foot in diameter.

The flax is of a very superior quality in its native state; but there can be no doubt, but that it might be improved by cultivation. Its texture is beautifully silky, the fibres of great strength, and four or five feet long.

The fern grows here in great abundance; the root of which is held in great estima- tion by the natives; and previously to the introduction of potatoes, was almost their only esculent vegetable. They call it Haddawai, and the method of preparing it for food consists in beating it for some time with a stone, until it becomes soft; they then chew it, and after having extracted the glutinous substance with which it abounds, exclude the fibrous parts.

There are flowering shrubs and wild indigo in great abundance.

There is every appearance of a great scope for mineralogical investigation, though there is no reason to suppose that the natives are acquainted with the existence of metal of any kind in New Zealand, as I could not discover in their tools or ornaments any metal, but such as evidently had been procured from Europeans. There is a green semi-transparent talc, brought from the interior, of considerable hardness, with which they make their tools, and a number of ornaments. This had formerly been considered of great value; but in pro- portion to the quantity of iron they obtain, their original implements formed of that material diminish in value among them.

As far as I could learn, they have no larger animal than the dog, which is a native here, usually black and white, with sharp, pricked up ears, the hair rather long, and in figure a good deal resembling the animal we call a fox-dog—the native name for which is CoraddeeKurī. It is possible the interior may produce quadrupeds of greater magnitude, all the others found here are such as we usually call vermin.

The immediate neighbourhood of this bay is unfavourable to ornithological enquiry, on account of the scarcity of wood; but I have no doubt the interior must abound in a great variety of rare and beautiful birds: the only species I saw that struck me as new, was a pigeon, of beautiful plumage, large size, and delicious eating. Cockatoos and parrots, in great variety, are said to inhabit the woods, as well as an infinity of small birds. This bay abounds in fish of all descriptions usually found in the same parallel of latitude. The snapper and bream are un commonly fine—the cray fish and crabs excellent, and the oysters, though not fit for a London market, on account of the irregularity of their shells, are well flavoured, and found in great abundance.

To such as are fond of cockles, muscles, and all the varieties of small shell-fish, the bay of islands must prove a most desirable place to visit: and here may be procured a great variety of rare and beautiful shells for the cabinets of the curious.

Chapter III

Chap. III.

Town of Tippoonah—Residence of a Chieftain—Confinement of Tippeehee's daughter for Disobedience—Dwellings of the Natives.

The capital of this part of the country, which is situated partly on the main land, and partly on a small island, is called Tippoonah, and consists in the whole of about an hundred dwellings. On the main the dwellings of the natives are surrounded each by a little patch of cultivated ground; but the island is appropriated to the residence of a chieftain and his court, where no cultivation is carried on. This island is so exceedingly abrupt in its ascent, and consequently so easily defended against an enemy, that it is frequently the refuge of the natives in time of war; answering all the purposes of a citadel of considerable strength: It is also their arsenal and general depot for articles of value in times of—peace—I was about to add, but, alas! these times are rarely known in savage life where the population is considerable .

Tippeehee, the chieftain, has a well constructed dwelling on this island, and a large collection of spears, war mats, and other valuables.

A short distance from the residence of the chief is an edifice every way similar to a dove cote, standing upon a single post, and not larger than dove cotes usually are.

In this Tippeehee confined one of his daughters several years; we understood she had fallen in love with a person of inferior condition, and that these means were adopted to prevent her from bringing disgrace upon her family. The space allotted to the lady would neither allow of her standing up, or stretching at her length; she had a trough in which her food was deposited as often as was thought necessary during her confinement, and I could not find that she was allowed any other accommodation. These privations, and all converse being denied her, proves that Tippeehee was determined to exhibit a severe example to his subjects; at least to such of the young ladies of this part of New Zealand as might be inclined to degrade themselves and their families by unsuitable alliances.

The long confinment, with all its inconveniencies, produced the desired effect, in rendering the princess obedient to the wishes of her royal parent. This barbarous cage, which is ornamented with much grotesque carving, still remains as a memento in terrorem to all the young ladies under Tippeehee's government.

The dwellings of the natives are usually about five feet high, the walls of which are wattled, and made close with rushes. The thatch is of strong bladed grass, and generally well applied.

The space the hut occupies is propor- tioned to the number of the family: there is usually but one aperture or entrance, and is, in appearance, not unlike a bee-hive.

These are the common lodging-huts of the natives; their cooking operations, which, indeed, do not require a great number of vessels, or attendants, are carried on in a shed at a little distance from the hut, and which is formed by fixing four posts in the ground, about five feet high, on which is laid a flat covering of rushes.

Chapter IV

Chap. IV.

Personal Appearance of the Natives—Their Aversion from Spirits—Longevity—Native Women.

The natives of New Zealand, at least the part of it I visited, are of a very superior order, both in point of personal appearance and intellectual endowments.

The men are usually from five feet eight inches to six feet in height; well proportioned, and exhibit evident marks of great strength.

The colour of the natives, taken as a mean, resembles that of an European gipsy; but there is considerable difference in the shades, varying between a dark chesnut and the light agreeable tinge of an English brunette. Their countenances are in general open; and though you are not alarmed by any marks of savage ferocity, you clearly discover signs of undaunted courage, and a resolution not easily shaken.

The workings of the mind are readily discernable in most instances; but this country is not without its dissemblers; and particularly among those advanced in life are to be found some who can smile, and assent to your opinion, when their natural feelings dictate a frown, and a decided disapprobation of your conduct or sentiments.

The natives have a great aversion from spirits, and I do not find that they have any mode of intoxication among them; they are consequently robust, cheerful, and active, and probably, in many instances, live to a great age.

I observed, that in a few persons the appearances of longevity were very strongly marked, though it is impossible to speak with certainty upon the subject, there being no positive criterion for determining the age of man. In some in- stances we observe all the characteristics of old age at a very early period of life, while in others juvenility is protracted to an advanced stage.

Returning from this digression, I must say something of the fair part of the creation of the Bay of Islands, and there is really no great impropriety in the term, for many of the women were scarcely to be denominated brunettes. Their features in general are regular and pleasing, with long black hair, and dark penetrating eyes. The tattooing of their lips, and the quantity of oil and red earth with which they anoint their persons and hair, would not be agreeable to the taste of a refined European; but I can conceive to a New Zealand lover, their well-formed figure, the interesting cast of their countenance, and the sweet tone of their voice, must render them extremely desirable companions, to soothe his cares, and strew his path through life with flowers: for savage life has its cares and perplexities as well as that of the polished native of the most enlightened country. Having given some account of the inhabitants of New Zealand, I shall proceed to say something of their religion and government, their occupations and amusements, and their ordinary customs and habits of life.

Chapter V

Chap. V.

Classes among the Natives—Religion—Their Adoration of the Sun and Moon—A New Zealand Deity—Cleanliness—Place of Sepulture.

As this country is divided into small principalities, whose chieftains are almost constantly at war with each other, the wandering of the natives is prevented by its being rendered unsafe; a bond of society is therefore formed for the safety and protection of the members of each principality. This society is divided into classes, each distinguished by devices variously tattooed on their faces and persons. These classes consist in those educated for the priesthood, or the performance of their religious ceremonies; others to arms, by far the most numerous class; and the remainder may be considered the cannaille, or vulgar multitude.

But little is known of the religion of these people; the chief objects of their adoration are the sun and moon; with the stars they are well acquainted, and have names for a great many of them; the moon, how ever, is their favourite deity. They believe it to be the abode of a man, who, at some distant period, paid a visit to New Zealand, and who they believe is still very anxious for its welfare and that of its inhabitants.

The annexed plate represents an ornament formed of the green talc I before mentioned, which they intend for a likeness of this protecting deity. It is worn round the neck of both sexes, particularly during times in which peril is apprehended.

When paying their adoration to the rising sun, the arms are spread and the head bowed, with the appearance of much joy in their countenances, accompanied with a degree of elegant and reverential solemnity: The song used upon this occasion is cheerful and not destitute of harmony; while that made use of upon the going down of the sun is mournful, and accompanied by such actions as evidently denote sorrow for his departure.

The song upon these occasions is usually sung by one person, to which there is a chorus, in which the whole company join: and I believe that they not only unite their voices for the purpose of adoration, but that their hearts are also filled with the same sentiment.

The song used to the moon is mournful, and their accompanying actions denote a mixture of adoration and apprehension.

My short residence among these people prevented me from acquiring an intimate knowledge of their religion; I can, therefore, only mention such circumstances as cursory observation induced me to believe related to that subject: the native I brought to England with me wishing always to avoid any conversation on this head. Upon some occasions I noticed that they were peculiarly observant of cleanliness; for instance, after cutting or combing their hair, they never make use of their hands to feed themselves, but are fed for one or more days after that operation by some one of their relatives.

The head seems to be generally considered an improper part to be touched by any kind of food, nor do they ever like articles of that description to be over their heads, though at some distance.

Between the beams of the ship were nettings filled with potatoes, under which the natives had a very great aversion from sitting.

My reason for believing that this aversion was produced by ideas connected with their religion was, that they always expressed their disgust in the strongest manner, and that nothing but force could induce them to remain in that situation. They would enter no further into an explanation of their feelings than matta matta very bad.

Their expressions of horror upon these occasions, however, were not greater than those of an Hindoo when touched, and consequently contaminated by a piece of animal food.

There are many other customs and ceremonies that appear to be dictated by a superstition connected with their religion, but as it would be impossible for me to speak with certainty upon the subject, I shall not venture any doubtful conjectures upon them.

They have an idea of a variety of rewards and punishments in a future state.

Near the town of Tippoonah is an island appropriated to the purposes of sepulture, and is, in all probability, considered sacred.

One of Tippeehee's wives being sick, and thought to be past recovery, was sent to this island to end her days: her majesty had two female attendants, who ministered to her wants till death released her from her sufferings.

The graves on this island are marked by pieces of wood at the head and foot, and preserved from disturbance by the superstition of the natives.

This singular practice of sending a person to die in a particular place affords a striking instance of the similarity of customs between two countries situated at a great distance from, and which, probably, never had any communication with each other: the Hindoos deposit their dying patients in the Ganges.

Chapter VI

Chap. VI.

Government—Chiefs of the Interior—Chiefs of the Coast—Power of the Chief—Consultation with Elders—Civil Power—Punishment in criminal Cases—Tiarrah.

I believe the form of government of this part of New Zealand, and perhaps of the whole island, to be aristocratical, and hereditary. On the coast it is administered by chieftains, who are of inferior consideration, and probably subservient to those who govern the interior.

I am led into this conjecture by the accounts of the natives, who, when speaking of their ruler at this part, evidently considered him as a personage of small note compared with other chiefs dwelling at a considerable distance in the country. The chiefs of the Bay of Islands not only walk, but walk barefoot; but those of the interior they describe as being carried in a sort of vehicle on the shoulders of men whenever they vouchsafe to go abroad.

This vehicle, as far as I could learn, is not distinguished by much elegance, and, from the account of the natives, it very much resembles what in England is called an hand-barrow.

But notwithstanding this want of elegance in the vehicle, it will not be supposed that the monarch, if so he may be stiled, is destitute of the means of state and parade; when it is considered that upon many occasions he is attended by some hundreds, or even thousands of dauntless warriors, armed with spears and battle-axes, and decorated with war-mats, feathers, &c. He is, therefore, by no means that contemptible being that Europeans, upon a first idea, would imagine.

The chieftains of the coast are, however, deficient in this splendour, but they are no less formidable when commanding a fleet of war canoes.

Though the power of the chieftains appears to depend upon success in arms, yet they do not undertake any warlike enterprize without a consultation of the elders, nor probably without endeavouring to find out how the destinies are disposed towards them.

When war is determined upon, the conflict must be dreadful. They have no idea of any thing short of conquest or death, and they engage in the battle with a firm reliance upon the former, though they are prepared for the latter by having no dread of it.

The warlike operations, whether carried on by land or water, are in general guided more by personal valour than by a judicious disposition of their forces. Success is therefore most likely to crown the most numerous tribe, though it is not universally the case.

The onset is accompanied by threaten- ing gestures, shouts, grimace, and other tokens of defiance, which, to an European tacititian, would appear extremely ridiculous, and, to an indifferent spectator, at least ungraceful and unbecoming, though they would strike both as exceedingly terrific.

The elders have great weight in the councils of the chiefs, and in all affairs, excepting those of a military description, they decide independently of them, though the authority of the chiefs would undoubtedly enable them to prevent the elders from carrying any projected measure into execution, should they feel disposed to exert this authority.

Thus, though the government is purely aristocratical, and probably abounding in wise and salutary laws; the local circumstances of most of the states require that its civil forms should yield to military discipline and etiquette: but during their short intervals of peace they consider themselves amenable to civil power, if such a term is admissible. There are modes of punishment among them in criminal cases; but I apprehend, in most instances, it is summary, and no way depending upon a cool and dispassionate investigation of the circumstances of delinquency, but rather the result of an hasty and partial decision of the passions.

A case in point occurred a short time previously to my visiting the Bay of Islands: a native, named Awkeeterree, had been some time absent from the tribe to which he belonged, and upon his return discovered that his wife had been unfaithful to him: he immediately went in quest of her paramour; he found him on the beach, and going behind him, armed with an European cutlass, he nearly severed his head from his body. It does not appear that he offered any violence to the wife upon this occasion, but, content with removing the immediate cause of his dishonour, he discarded his wife, and took another to replace her. So far from being censured for this act of outrage, he was, on the contrary, applauded for prompt administration of summary justice. He was of noble blood; but, had he committed an act not sanctioned by law or custom, I am inclined to believe that this circumstance would not have protected him from the vengeance of the relatives of the deceased.

Hanging is one of the punishments of New Zealand, but I will not take upon myself to say what crimes are thought to deserve it; it is, probably, theft: they express a great abhorrence of this crime, and, among themselves, I believe their practice corresponds with their professions of honesty, but it can scarcely be expected that they should be proof against the temptations of European articles.

The chieftain of this part is named Tippeehee, but he was absent during my stay here, and Tiarrah, his brother, a likeness of whom is prefixed, administered the government in his stead. Tiarrah's character is mild, and rather deficient in energy; that of Tippeehee is the reverse, he having, it is said, a good deal of the tyrant in his disposition.

I have said but little concerning the religion and government of the natives of the Bay of Islands; there is considerable difficulty in obtaining information on these heads; independently of which, they are subjects that, in my opinion, require to be handled with great caution, even by those who are well qualified to treat of them; the less, therefore, according to my judgment, that is said upon either the better; and, probably, were we resident among them, we should find this line of conduct necessary to our personal safety.

Presuming, therefore, that their form of government is such an one as is approved of, and supported by the common consent of the natives; and that their religion, whatever its fundamental priciples may be, such as the mass of the people are well contented with, I shall not venture to interfere with the administration of the one, nor dispute the tenets of the other; but proceed to relate what information I have acquired respecting their more common habits of life, customs, arts, &c.

Chapter VII

Chap. VII.

Character of the Natives—How far they are Cannibals—Their affectionate Disposition—Upsetting of a Canoe—Moyhanger's Determination to visit Europe—Parting with his Kindred—Meeting of Friends—Mode of Salutation.

In New Zealand, as in all uncivilized countries, the passions are the principal guide to the actions of its inhabitants: but in this island I conceive those actions are very much restrained, either by the superintendance and authority of their chiefs, or by a natural proneness to affection; or, perhaps, by a union of the two causes: certain it is, however, that a great degree of subordination and affection is observable among them upon all occasions.

The natives of this island have hitherto been considered cannibals of the worst de- scription, but I apprehend their character, in this respect, is not so horrible as represented; for although they acknowledge that they have been driven to the dire necessity of eating human flesh, in times of great scarcity of food, yet it does not appear that they have any predilection for the practice: the motive which impels them to this inhuman deed, as customary at present, is vengeance, but even this passion is not pursued without limitation. Thus, after a conquest, the victors do not devour the whole of their prisoners, but are content with shewing their power to do so, by dividing the chief of the vanquished tribe among them: he is eaten, it is true, but I do not believe that food is the inducement.

It is probable that an European, who should act with hostility toward them, would be treated in the same way, but if cast defenceless upon their shores, I have reasons for believing he would meet with far different treatment.

There can be no doubt but that the introduction of potatoes has saved many lives, for they certainly give that root a decided preference to human flesh, under every circumstance except that before stated.

The manners of these people are particularly kind and affectionate upon all occasions; one or two instances, of a very striking nature, I observed during my stay here.

We had constantly a number of natives on board the ship; many remained two or three days without visiting the shore, and others visited it daily. One day, it blowing very strong, a canoe, in which were women and children only, attempting to approach the ship, upset; the lamentations of those on board the ship were expressed in a most affecting manner; but we were too much engaged in lowering down a boat to save the lives of the poor creatures, to attend to those who were expressing so much apprehension for their safety. Happily the boat saved every life: the women clung to the canoe with one hand, and in almost every instance supported a child with the other, their own safety appearing evidently to be a secondary consideration. Their situation for some time was extremely perilous, and that of the natives on board the ship truly pitiable, till they found that the boat arrived in time to rescue the women and children from a watery grave; then their distress gave way to the most tumultuous joy: and when the poor half-drowned shivering females and their children were brought on board, the congratulations on their escape, and their kind and soothing attentions, were such as would by no means have disgraced the moral character of the most refined European; those who had remained on board immediately stripping themselves of their mats to cover their friends or relatives, who had a much greater occasion for them.