Sketch of the Mosquito Shore, Including the Territory of Poyais

Front matter

SKETCH

OF THE

MOSQUITO SHORE,

Preface

The Author of the following Sketch of "The Mosquito Shore, including the Territory of Poyais," being impressed with a thorough conviction of the immense benefit which not only the native tribes of Mosquitia, but the neighbouring countries in general, must derive, from the civilization and improvement of one of the fairest portions of the globe, has endeavoured in the following sheets, to attract the attention of enlightened Europeans to the subject, by combining the knowledge of its history, natural productions, the best mode of culture, &c. which he acquired during a portion of his life spent in that part of the world—with the information afforded to him by the few but authentic authors who have written any thing on the subject.

In this undertaking, he has endeavoured, as much as possible, to avoid making any statement which might appear doubtful or exaggerated, especially to such of his readers as arc unacquainted with the circumstances that have until now retarded the civilization of this hitherto neglected country; and he has therefore confined himself, as much as possible, to such plain and positive facts, as are establish- ed beyond the shadow of doubt, by reference to the authorities alluded to,—being aware, that although he may have thereby rendered the publication less entertaining to general readers, those who are likely to be more nearly interested will be better pleased with the plain statement exhibited.

He has endeavoured, under the head of Agriculture, to give a full sketch of the usual mode of management, and probable returns, which may be expected from some of the leading articles of produce; and he hopes the industrious planter or farmer, will find this not the least interesting part of the book.

He may here be permitted to observe, that there seems good reason to believe, that at least a part t the native tribes of Mosquitia, (perhaps the Poyers in particular), were at one period better acquainted than at present with many of the arts of civilization; and some of the customs of the Poyers, and others in the interior, together with the antiquities found in their country, and their hereditary enmity to the Spanish nation, seems clearly to indicate their descent from some of those brave Mexican tribes, who declined submission to the yoke of the destroyers of the unfortunate Montezuma; and although a barbarous policy has retarded their return to, or advancement in civilization, they themselves have repeatedly shewn an anxious desire to acquire the arts of Europe, as is manifest by their repeated invitations to the English, to form settle- ments amongst them, as well as by their former offers to cede a part of their country to Great Britain; thereby shewing that their aversion to Spain does not extend to all the other nations of Europe. Their friendship for the British has indeed been constant and uninterrupted, and their honesty and good disposition, manifested not only by their fidelity to the former English settlers, but also by their kindness to every peaceable person, who for the purposes of trade or otherwise, has occasionally resided amongst them.

The proclamation, which was addressed to the inhabitants of Poyais, by His Highness the Cazique, on leaving that country, (dated at Rio Seco the 13th of April 1821,) states, that His Highness's present visit to Europe, is for the purpose of procuring religious and moral instructors, the implements of husbandry, and persons to guide and assist in the cultivation of the soil; and it very particularly mentions, that no person but the honest and industrious, shall find an asylum in the Territory. By a strict adherence to these principles, by a firm and equitable administration of justice, to native and settler, without respect of persons, and by strictly guarding against, and discouraging, the introduction of those vicious and immoral habits, which are unhappily too prevalent in the West India Islands, tending to subvert every good and social principle, His Highness will continue to merit the esteem of his faithful Poyers, establish his power on a sure basis, gratify every friend to the improvement of the human race, and earn to himself immortal honour.

The Author had intended to prefix to the present Sketch of the Mosquito Shore, a short "Memoir of the Macgregor." But the documents and referenccs which he found it necessary to consult and quote, before even a concise view of the subject could be exhibited, were so voluminous, that he has been obliged to reserve this part of the subject, which may perhaps include a brief Sketch of the principal events of His Highness's life, for a separate publication.

That the chief of this very old clan (the clan Alpin or clan Gregor,) is directly decended from the ancient Kings of Scotland, is generally known and admitted; and the Author ventures to assert, that the right of His Highness Gregor, Cazique of Poyais, to the Chieftainship, cannot be disproved.

The Author hopes for the indulgence of his readers, for many deficiencies and omissions in the present publication; but should this imperfect Sketch be the means of directing the attention of the agriculturists of Europe, to the numerous advantages which may be enjoyed in this fine country,—or of assisting the first settlers, or of forwarding in the smallest degree, the great and good objects contemplated,—he will consider that his exertions have not been in vain.

Chapter 1

NAME.

This country, it is generally supposed, derives its name from a cluster of small islands, or banks, situated near its coasts, and called the Mosquittos; some late geographers have designated it by the name of Mosquitia, which is certainly a more elegant appellation than that of Mosquito Shore, conveying to a stranger ignorant of its derivation, the idea of a country infested, with Moschetos, which would be a very unjust conclusion, as there are perhaps few countries under the tropics, so little troubled with these disagreeable insects.

Chapter 2

The Mosquito Shore extends from the Point of Castile, or Cape Honduras, being the northern Point of Truxillo Bay, to the River St John's, called by the Spaniards San Juan de Nicaragua, being 182 leagues of shore. A chain of lofty mountains run diagonally from Point Castile to St Juan's, and serve as a strong barrier between the Spanish and Mosquito territories. The area of the latter, which is one-third larger than the kingdom of Portugal, forms an irregular triangle, of which Cape Gracias a Dios, makes the apex.

It is bounded on the North by the Sea of Honduras; on the South by the river of San Juan; on the East by the Carribean Sea, and Bay of Guatemala; and on the West by the Spanish Provinces of Honduras and Nicaragua. Its greatest length from north to south, may be estimated at 340 miles; and its extreme breadth at 235 miles. At a medium we may venture to give it an area of 70,000 square miles. To this we ought to add the district of Talamancas, claimed by the king of the Mosquito nation, containing about 4200 square miles; and also the territory of Chiriqui, which may be estimated at 1800 square miles; these two districts make an addition of 6000 square miles more, which added to the Mosquito Shore proper, gives a total of 76,000 square miles, or 48,640,000 English acres.

Chapter 3

The coasts are generally flat, and surrounded with reefs; but the interior is so variegated, as to render a successful invasion impracticable, it being protected on all sides by morasses and inaccessible mountains. Captain Speer describes the country as full of large rivers, that run some hundred miles up into a fine, healthy, and fruitful country; the soil producing every thing that usually grows in North America and the West Indies.

Truxillo Harbour, being the westernmost extreme of the Mosquito shore, is a noble large bay, where are the commodious harbours of Little, and Big Puerto Novo, and where large vessels may lie in perfect safety. This bay abounds with fish, game, wood, and water. Truxillo bay is a very safe harbour, and easy of access in bad weather, or in strong northerly winds. Excepting a few rocks which lie round St Luke's Kay (or island), at the entrance of the bay, on the south shore, there is no danger in any part of the bay; and it is so capacious, that all the navy of England may safely ride within it. The tide is not perceptible here; the easterly winds prevail during the greater part of the year. Captain Hester says, water is here in great plenty. In watering, you may either land your casks, and roll them over a narrow neck of land, or you may fill them in your boats, with buckets, &c. out of many rivulets; but the chief place is Crystal River, which bears S.E. by S. from the outer part of the bay. Here are to be found turtle, manati, with pecarys, warrys, and many other kinds of wild game in the season; also great plenty of fish. Mahogany and fustic are in abundance. You may load anywhere in safety.

Cape Honduras forms the northern part of the bay of Truxillo, and the westernmost point of the North-Mosquito coast; it is also called Punta de Castilla, and Cabo Delgado by the Spaniards. In Laurie and Whittle's chart of the West Indies, it is laid down in latitude 16° 1′, and longitude 86° 2′. The late Spanish charts place it in longitude 86° 12′, or 10 minutes more to the west, making the distance from Cape Camaron 20, instead of 17 leagues, as in Laurie and Whittle's charts. I do not pretend to decide its true longitude, but am rather inclined to think the Spanish correct, as the distance between the two capes is undoubtedly. 20 leagues. The point forming the north side of Truxillo Bay is low, and a considerable reef of coral rocks, with sand, stretches from it to the westward. The land of the interior, hence to the eastward, appears high and variegated.

Cabbage Tree, or Three Leagues Point Lagoon, lays about twelve miles to the eastward of Cape Honduras; it is of a small extent, but with a very wide mouth, and has a reef of rocks laying off its westernmost entrance.

Salt River Lagoon, lays a few miles inland, a little to the eastward of the former, and has a small river running out of it, which empties itself into the sea; here, it is said, large quantities of salt might be made.

Great Roman River, called by the Spaniards, El Rio Grande, empties itself into the sea, after a course of about one hundred and fifty miles, by two mouths, which are formed by Spark's island. Several considerable streams empty themselves into it, the chief of which are the Rio Guayape, which rises in the mountains in the neighbourhood of Olancho el Viejo, where there are mines of silver. The Rio Yanque, has its head waters in the immediate vicinity of the silver mines, and in its course passes by the Spanish towns of San Gorge de Olancho, and Soneguera, and empties itself into the great Roman river, about thirty miles below the latter town, where the Guayape also forms a junction with it.

Lime-house River, is the next on the coast, and has a course of about forty miles; from the sea it is known by a saddle mountain with a sugar loaf hill on one side, and by another sugar loaf on the other side, whose top appears to be broken off. To the eastward of the mouth of the river are the Great Rocks, which shew themselves like a round bluff; they are close to the sea side, about a mile from the shore. The bluff point of the Great Rocks to the eastward, and old Roman point, make Bight. Further on are the Little Rocks, and between them and the Great Rocks are the two rivers called Piaw River and Piaw Creek. At Piaw River there is anchorage.

Zachary Lyon River follows next, and has a course of about 30 miles; it has high land, right over it, in the form of a sugar loaf, not unlike that over Black River, but distinguished by a saddle mountain, a little to the westward; between Piaw river and the Zachary-lyon river, there is a small bay, called the Turtle Bight. It is on the banks of the Zachary Lyon, that the proposed Hebrew colony is about to be established. The title-deed to which property, has already been transmitted to a respectable house in London.

Praunow Creek, is only two miles to the westward of Cape Camaron River; the opening is easily seen from the sea, as the eastern side is distinguished by a high sand hill, and on the western side a spit stretches out a mile into the sea. This river forms the eastern boundary of the projected Hebrew colony.

Cape Camaron, and River, are the next important points on the coast. The Cape, as determined by the Spanish observers, lies in 16° 2′ north and 85° 9′ west. The coast between Cape Honduras and Cape Camaron is irregular; there are gradual soundings in approaching, but there are some patches of rocks along shore.

Black River; the entrance of this, which is to the eastward of Cape Camaron, has been determined by the Spanish observers, to be in 15° 58′ North, and 84° 55′ West, or at the distance of about twelve miles from the cape.

The Spaniards call it Rio Tinto; it has a course of about one hundred and twenty miles, and several considerable streams empty themselves into it. It is navigable for small craft till within about twenty miles of its principal source. About forty miles from the sea, on its left bank, is situated the town of Poyais, the capital of the territory of this name. And about fifty miles higher up is the Embarcadero, from whence there is an Indian path leading to Manto, or Olancho el Viejo, in the neighbourhood of which, as already observed, there are rich silver mines. At the junction of two of its branches, and in latitude 15° 8′ at the base of a ridge of mountains, are two remarkable hot and cold springs, situated close to each other. "Its entrance", the only harbour on all this coast from "Rattan to Cape Gracias a Dios, was for more than 60 years the refuge of the Logwood-cutters, when the Spaniards drove them from the forests of East Yucatan; they waited there in safety for the moment their enemies should retire. As their expulsions were frequent, and always unforeseen, the ships which went to load with logwood in the bay of Honduras, chose to touch first at the Black River, to get intelligence, and to determine in consequence the manner of pursuing their voyage. Wood-cutters, sailors, deserters, and adventurers of several kinds, fixed themselves insensibly in this place; they received merchandise in return for the fruits of their labour, and soon established a lucrative trade with the Spaniards in the inland parts. The last treaty of peace, which secures to the wood-cutters the uninterrupted enjoyment of their forests, far from making the Black River deserted, has given more activity to the settlement. The sea coast is sandy, generally low and swampy, with mangrove trees: higher upon the rivers and lagoons, the soil more fertile, produces many plantains, cocoa-trees, maize, yams, potatoes, and several other vegetables; the passion of drinking rum has made them begin the planting of sugar canes. The rivers, as well as the lagoons, are extremely well stored with fish, the forests filled with deer, pecarys or Mexican swine, and game. On the shores they catch the finest turtle, from March to June, and from August to the end of September; besides this fishery, which is very plentiful, the Black River settlers cut mahogany and zebra wood, and gather a great deal of sarsaparilla. These settlers, still fewer in number than those of the Bay of Honduras, are like them under the inspection of the commander of the frigate which cruises on the coast: but the colony is so well situated, that it cannot fail of increasing; the Government, who destroyed their fort at the peace, in vain neglects it. It is one of those plants, which placed by chance in a happy corner of the garden, flourish, increase, and bear fruit of themselves, without the gardener's giving himself the trouble of watering or taking care of them. But it is now given up to the Spaniards, and the English have entirely abandoned these parts." The occupation of this territory by the Spaniards, was however of short duration; for having quarreled with the Mosquito people, the fort at Black River was attacked by the Indians, under the command of one of their most distinguished chiefs, General Robinson, and taken by escalade. The Spaniards however effected a retreat, and since that time have never attempted to make any other establishments.

Black River Lagoon, is of considerable extent, being calculated at eight miles broad and fourteen in length; it is beautifully spotted with several small islets, on one of which, when in possession of the British, was occupied for raising stock.

Plantain River, is about thirty miles to the eastward of Black River; it has a large mouth, with four fathoms water, a short distance from the coast; its sources are about eighty miles in the interior of the country; on its left bank, and near the mouth, are some fine savannahs, where the Indian chief, General Robinson, has a large herd of cattle.

Brewers Lagoon, is fifteen miles farther on; it has a wide mouth, with anchorage off the entrance from twelve to eight fathoms water. This Lagoon is about nine miles broad, and runs nearly fifteen into the interior of the country. In the middle of the haven, about a league up, is an island, that appears like two hills, whereon some English people formerly resided, and probably had a battery, as there are two old guns laying there to this day.

Puttuch, or Patook River, is of considerable size, and has several smaller rivers that empty themselves into it, the chief of which is the Rio Barbo: these streams have their sources in the ridge of mountains, which form a barrier to the left bank of the great river Yare; the extent of the Patook and its tributary streams, is upwards of one hundred miles. It has two mouths, one of which empties itself into Brewers lagoon. On the easternmost bank of the Patook is Patool Point, from which a sand bank, with a sharp point, extends for a mile and a half into the sea; and which vessels ought to give a good birth to, approaching no nearer than nine fathoms water. Two or three years ago, in the time of the heavy rains and freshes, the waters of the river cleared away the bar, leaving a depth of about three fathoms, which is a proof of the facility, with which the bar rivers on the north coast might be cleared and deepened; it has been gradually filling up ever since.

Little Patook River, is about fifteen miles further to the east of Great Patook River, and rises about thirty five miles in the interior. There is a kay, or small island, laying between the two rivers.

Caractasco Lagoon, called by the Spaniards Bahia de Cartago, lies about 17 leagues from Great Patook river. This place is easily known; for, as the mouth is very wide, the opening may always be seen.

It is shallow, has a bar, and is only navigable for small vessels, and is considered by the natives a day's journey in length; its breadth, which is nearly equal throughout, may be computed at ten miles.

Captain Henderson, who visited this lagoon in the month of September 1804, says, "We passed the bar in a short time, and entered the Lagoon of Caratasco, and had to beat up the remainder of our voyage, a distance of about two leagues, in a course directly contrary to the one we had pursued previous to entering it. It was almost the same as going back by the same sea, the space of land dividing the navigation we had left from that we were in, not being more than a few hundred yards. We came to an anchor off the settlement of Crata at five. The Mosquito Indians have other settlements on both sides of the sound.......Caratasca Lagoon is considered by the natives a day's journey in length: its breadth, which is nearly equal throughout, may be computed at about ten miles; it is shallow, and only navigable for vessels of small burden. On landing, I was immediately received by Captain Potts, a man of some consequence in the settlement or Crata, with most expressive marks of friendship and regard, and conducted by him to his habitation. The whole of the inhabitants of the Settlement soon crowded round me, and from all I could discover the same signs of welcome. An excellent supper of fowls, eggs, plantains, and the root of the Casava, was expeditiously prepared, and I do not recollect that I ever made a meal with more entire enjoyment. I passed the night with my Indian friends. Captain Potts appeared about sixty years of age, and a more kind, aimable being I never met. His attentions and hospitality were unceasing. He had three wives; the elder seemed of the same years with himself; the youngest certainly not more than sixteen; the other might be taken at the medium age of both.

"Saturday, 5th.—As soon as I had breakfasted, I was informed that a house had been prepared for me to occupy during my stay. Few houses, I believe, had ever been raised with more expedition. It was begun and finished in one night; and although not after any known design of architecture, it was comfortable and commodious, sufficiently proof against the weather, and affording every requisite convenience for myself and servants. Of the latter I never stood in less need, for the unremitted assiduity of the people of the country to be useful to me, would scarcely allow of their interference in any thing. In the course of the day, numbers that I had not seen on my arrival, living contiguous to Crata, came and paid their respects, bringing presents of hogs, poultry, &c. &c. I invited three of the principal men to dine with me. After our meal was concluded, I gave several toasts expressive of regard for their nation, and for perpetuating a good understanding between it and my own; all of which they per- fectly understood, and received with high marks of approbation.

"Sunday, 6th.—The principal Mosquito chiefs not arriving as I expected, in the forenoon I dispatched other messengers to hasten them. During the remainder of the day, I amused myself with short rambles round the settlements of Crata, and was much delighted with the simple and rural appearance of the Indian dwellings, and the very pleasing scenery which every where presented itself. I eagerly wished for the tasteful pencil of a Gilpin to delineate some of the many agreeable subjects before me; for, without the language of affectation, most of them were worthy of it.

"Wednesday, 9th.—As it might be expected, my appointment of yesterday produced an early assemblage of the men of Caratasca Sound this forenoon. Immediately after their arrival, I concluded my business with them.... An ox having been slaughtered for the occasion, I had as many as my house could contain to dine with me, and every thing passed with entire harmony. I cannot omit remarking, that the greater part of my guests, if not tastefully or fashionably dressed, were at least splendidly and variously so. I really believe the entire costume of Europe, civil and military, for the last hundred years, might at one view have presented itself at my table. And whatever was once thought gay and ornamental in the brilliant and refined circles of London and Versailles, might perhaps be now considered equally so on the less polished shore of Caratasca. It had often been matter of surprise with me, to what earthly mart the venders of cast off gaieties in London could consign the odd articles frequently decorating their doors; this astonishment ceased, the moment my company had collected in the Mosquito nation.

"Monday, 14th.—Early this morning General Robinson came on board our vessel, and shortly afterwards I accompanied him on shore. Whilst the matters I had to take with me were collecting, I amused myself with a walk of about a mile through a spacious savannah, and the scenery on this side the Lagoon certainly greatly surpassed that we had left on the other. This savannah for a very considerable extent, formed an entire level of continued verdure, and of the finest pasturage; skirted on one side of the water of the Lagoon, and bounded on the other by gentle rising hills. The clumps of pine and other lofty trees, interspersed at pleasing distances over the whole, gave the view all the appearance of cultivated art, and afforded a most agreeable relief to the eye. At the foot of the hills, the wood in places thickening, almost deluded the imagination to conceive, that in the bosom of these sequestered groves might be found the ornamental dwelling of some tasteful owner. But awaking from this, here all was Nature."

I must now leave the friendly Indians, and continue the description of the coast, which from Caratasca Lagoon, inclines to the south-east.

Croak or Crotch River, is a small stream, which empties itself into a little bay, a short distance before reaching the False Cape. It has from nine to eleven feet water over its bar.

False Cape, is about 14 leagues from the entrance of Caratasca Lagoon; it has a shoal called Cape Bank laying off it, that lies to the northward. There is tolerable anchorage under the lee of the cape, after getting round the sand bank.

Little Black River, lays about half way between the False Cape, and Cape Gracias a Dios; its course is about forty miles, and about twelve miles from its mouth, is the settlement of Tobuncana.

Cape Gracias a Dios, this celebrated cape lays in about 15° north latitude. The harbour is formed by an arm of the sea, large enough to hold the navy of Great Britain, and open only from E. by S. to S.S.W. from which points the wind seldom blows there. Captain Wright informs us, that it is a noble extensive harbour, where Commodore Parry anchored in 1782, with his squadron, consisting of a fifty gun ship, and some heavy frigates; this bay is open to no winds but a south-east; the Cape Keys, off this place, abound with turtle all the year round. The depths in the bay are from 6 to 2½ fathoms, and this is a safe and convenient place of shelter during the north winds. When off the pitch of the Main Cape, you will see the land tending nearly north and south. The cape ends in a low sandy point, tending to the southward: some old trees are frequently drifting out of the river. The water shoalens a good way off, till you double the pitch of it, then you may borrow as close as you please, into 2, 3, 4, and 5 fathoms, soft ground.

Do not proceed higher up in the bay than in 3 or 4 fathoms; although it is all clear ground, and sheltered from all winds. On entering the Bay, a small village presents itself on the larboard side; here the King of the Mosquito Nation usually resides; there are also some settlers here, and an American and an Irish Gentleman, have both established a store for the sale of goods, which are chiefly obtained from Jamaica. "It is one of the most healthy and beautiful spots in the world the Europeans do not suffer by any of those disorders so dangerous in the West Indies, and live here to a very old age." Before the evacuation of it by the British in 1787, there were near thirty English families, with about one hundred negro slaves, who had begun plantations of sugar on the lands given them by the Mosquitos. The inhabitants live on the edge of a very large savannah, perpetually covered with the most fattening pasturage, and bounding on the river Wanks.

Wanks, or Great Cape River, called also Vankes, Yure, Yowra, and Golden River, from the grains of that metal being found in its sands: it arises very near the South Sea, and after successively passing the Spaniards, Indians friendly to the Spaniards, Indians friendly to us, and Mosquito Indians, rolls over a shallow bar into the sea at Cape Gracias a Dios. In the time of the English, they cut a canal from the bay through to the river, from which it is separated only a few hundred yards; it is now filling up, but canoes are still able to pass, and orders have lately been given to have it properly cleared.

The strength of current, and various course of this river, and many other obstructions to measurement of distance, make it very difficult to ascertain the breadth of the continent; but mules have been brought down to the Cape, from a place supposed to be considerably more than a hundred leagues up the river, from whence it is said to be only two days ride through the woods to the Spanish city of Leon. The whole length of the river may be safely stated at upwards of 300 miles.

In the months of February and March 1688, a party of the Buccaniers, who had been cruizing in the South Sea, passed from the Bay of Amalapa to the town of New Segovia, and from thence, after traversing the woods for a short distance, they embarked upon the river and arrived at Cape Graeias a Dios. The town of New Segovia "lies in a bottom, and is so surrounded with mountains, that she looks as if she were laid up in a prison; the churches here are but very indifferently built, and the place of arms is both very considerable and very fine; it is an inland place, forty leagues off from the South Sea. The way that leads to it, from the place where we were, is very difficult, being all mountains of a prodigious height, to the tops whereof we must creep with great danger; and the valleys, consequently, are so very narrow here, that for a league of even ground you pass over, you have six leagues of mountains to go. When we had passed these mountains, we felt a very sharp cold, and were taken with so thick a fog, that even when day appeared, we could not know one another, no otherwise than by our voices; but that only lasted till ten in the morning, when the weather cleared up, and the fog went entirely off; and the heat which succeeds the cold, becomes there very great, as well as in the plains, where none of this cold is felt, till you come to the foot of the mountains.—On the 16th, we lay at another (Hatto) six leagues farther; and at last on the 17th, which was the sixteenth day since our setting out, we came to the so much desired river, and presently entered into the woods, that grow upon the banks thereof, where every one fell to work, in good earnest, to cut down trees to build piperies, wherein we might go down the same."