Pictures of life in Mexico

Reginald Herbert Mason

of

By R. H. MASON.

in two volumes

VOL. I.

LONDON

SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNHILL.

1852.

TO

IS DEDICATED: A TRIBUTE OF THE AUTHOR'S HIGH ESTEEM AND ADMIRATION

PREFACE.

The Author visited Mexico in 1848-9, and was in a position to gather a variety of facts relating to the people and country, in different departments, which he believes have not been hitherto published. Whatever may be their value, the reader may rely upon the information contained in these volumes being the result of personal observation and diligent inquiry, with great care bestowed to make it as accurate as possible.

The scenes or "Pictures of Life in Mexico" have been interspersed with characteristic stories and anecdotes, with a view of presenting the habits and manners of the people more vividly than any mere description could have done. These narratives are not only founded on fact, but have, for the most part, really occurred in the Author's experiences; and he has endeavoured to imitate the style in which they would be related by Mexicans. For the information given, he alone is accountable; no contemporary statements having been referred to: except those relating to statistics, which are compiled from the best and most recent authorities, and are added to make the work more complete.

In order to form an idea of the whole country, the Author visited wild and remote districts, as well as populous cities, for the purpose of observing life of many shades and colours; and the following pages embrace scenes in the capital and in obscure hamlets, in prairies and mountains, and in habitations—not only of the wealthy and prosperous—but also in Indian huts: in short, to picture life and character among priests and léperos, hunters and miners, farmers and Indians, carriers and city authorities, has been the aim of the Author.

Should these pages have the good fortune to amuse the English reader by exhibiting life and manners so different from those of his own country, and to awaken some interest in the condition of Mexico—and thus tend towards its amelioration—the object of the Author will have been fully gained.

Albert Villa, Harrow, December 1, 1851.

Reginald Herbert Mason

fi

Reginald Herbert Mason

|CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

|

|CHAPTER I.

|INTRODUCTORY.

|Aspect of the country—Its different temperature and atmosphere—Principal cities—Plan of houses—State of society—Power of the priests—Middle and lower classes of people—Upper classes—Costumes—Mineral and vegetable productions—Scenery of Vera Cruz—Route to Xalapa—Town and suburbs—Gorgeous scene—Puebla

|page 1

|CHAPTER II.

|A MESON, OR BOARDING HOTEL.

|A traveller's greeting on entering the city of Mexico—Narrow escape—Lassoing—Apathy of the authorities—Suburb of San Lazaro—A shocking sight—"The Hotel of the Blood of Christ"—The host's welcome—Don Concho—A meson, or boarding-house—A "spare room" and its contents—A swarm of beggars—The public room—Dancing girls and other visitors—The Fonda—Mexican cookery—Tortilla cakes—Adventure of an Indian beggar

|12

|CHAPTER III.

|A VISIT TO THE MONTE PIO.

|Public buildings of the Capital—The Mineria, or school of mines—Academy of Fine Arts—Palace of the President—The Plaza Mayor—Visit to the Monte Pio—Articles in Pawn—Motley groups—A young cavalier and a stately dame—"Bringing out" a daughter—A miscellaneous lot—A daughter's sacrifice—A needy tradesman—Apprehension of a robber

|30

|CHAPTER IV.

|GRADES OF SOCIETY.

|Population—Different classes—Characteristics of the Mexicans—The two dominant powers—Mode of recruiting the army—System of education—Roman Catholic clergy—Mexican women—Pursuits of fine gentlemen—Smugglers and Inspectors—Aguadores, or water-carriers—Postilions—The Lasso—Market people and store-keepers—Watchmen—Léperos and other classes of people—Insecurity of life and property

|46

|CHAPTER V.

|THE LEPEROS.

|The léperos: their character and habits—Prayers and curses—Quaking prairies of Attakapas—A lépero's story—A duel—Murderous revenge—The victim accused—Pursuit of the assassin—His fate.

|59

|CHAPTER VI.

|DOMESTIC MATTERS.

|Domestic habits—Separation of the sexes—Effects of national isolation and civil war—Courtship and marriage—Want of social meetings—Hospitality—Drives and visits—Treatment of servants—Priestly intermeddling and extortion—Gossip and scandal—A persecuted family.

|75

|CHAPTER VII.

|A TERTULIA, OR EVENING PARTY.

|The streets at evening—Mexican cries—Grand saloon arranged for a party—Ceremonies of salutation and introduction—Superb costumes of the guests—Bishop and priests—A blonde beauty—Mexican belles—A vocal performance—Music and dances—Cards and forfeits—Mexican carvings of the Nativity and Life of Christ—A bishop's soliloquy—His account of the ancient worship of Mexico—Party breaking up.

|93

|CHAPTER VIII.

|RELIGION.

|Religion in Mexico—System of Priestcraft—Ignorance and recklessness of the people—Immorality of the clergy—Trafficking in crime—Priestly extortion—Sale of indulgences—A rake's penitence—A coquette at the confessional—A tradesman's restitution—A lépero's devotion.

|108

|CHAPTER IX.

|PRIESTLY DOINGS.

|Spanish process of conversion—Apprenticeship to religion—Indian girl's filial piety—The chain of indulgence—Inquisitorial spirit in Mexico—Wealth of the church—Number of ecclesiastics and religious establishments—Priestly methods of making money—Pursuits of the priests—Scene in the market-place—Procession of the host—Adoration—Priest's visit to a sick man—Costly Viaticum—A bereaved family

|115

|CHAPTER X.

|MEXICAN CATHEDRALS.

|Splendour of their interiors—Sacrilege of rare occurrence—Great cathedral of Mexico—Gold and silver altar-piece and balustrade—Cathedral of Puebla—Jewelled image of the Virgin—"Miraculous" altar-piece—Provincial churches—Perversion of property—Indulgences—Form of an indulgence—Removal of church treasures—The caravan plundered—Confession of the leader of the ladrones—Recovery of the valuables—Alarms and suspicions—The treasures concealed—Ecclesiastical watchmen—Church sacked by a mob—Three holy fathers buried alive

|130

|CHAPTER XI.

|A PRIESTS'S ESTABLISHMENT.

|Visit to the house of a priest—Its situation and appearance—Equipage in waiting—The azotea, or flat roof—Priest's daughters—Furniture of apartment—Father Perez—Priestly interrogations—Unintentional offence—Rude expulsion

|145

|CHAPTER XII.

|MEXICAN AMUSEMENTS.

|Character of amusements—Government duty—Cock-fighting and its patrons—The combat—Scene in an arena—A bull-fight—Further anticipations—Battle between a bull and bear—Horrible catastrophe—Gambling booths—The Fandango—Minor amusements.

|152

|CHAPTER XIII.

|WILD FOWL SHOOTING.

|Mexican rivers and lakes—The salt marshes—Wild ducks—Formidable shooting-machines—A sporting party—A biped dog—Señor Stiazza and his gun Bolo—A half-caste bravo—Ragged comrades—Sunlight on the lake—The game started—Wild ducks slaughtered—Zambo lost in the mud—Rescue—A sporting supper and encampment—Pleasant anticipations—An attack—Flight of the bravo—The party robbed of their spoil

|166

|CHAPTER XIV.

|THE ACCORDADA, OR CHIEF PRISON.

|Obstreperous conduct of prisoners—Entrance offices—Corridor—Court-yard and fountain—Prisoners in the second story—Want of provision for the destitute—Misery of lower classes—Chapel—Custom before an execution—Prisoners employed as scavengers—Prison for females—Groups in court-yard—A mock priest—A jail instructor—Quarrel in the water—An aged gamester—An ignorant devotee—Obscene singing—The basket-maker—Obtrusive mendicants—Officers' salaries—Prison statistics for one year.

|179

|CHAPTER XV.

|A POOR FUNERAL.

|Alacranes, or spider-scorpions—Scorpion-hunters—Indian costume—Indian huts and villages—Woman stung by alacranes—Contrast of burial-places—Masses for the wealthy—Contemptuous treatment of the poor—An Indian funeral—An unpopular priest—Dead-house of the capital—Melancholy street scenes—Grief of a mother and daughters—Father Miguel in the Morgue.

|194

|CHAPTER XVI.

|THE AMERICANS IN MEXICO.

|Adage respecting Americans—Various effects of inter-communication—Suspicious character of the Mexicans—Commercial policy—Restrictions and duties—Taxation—Consequences of exclusiveness—Productions of the country—Agricultural implements—Habits of trading—Changes in manners—Education—Anecdote of a travelling pedlar—Mexican impressions of the American army—Generals Scott and Taylor.

|205

|CHAPTER XVII.

|A SILVER-MINE IN THE NORTH.

|Moonlight among the mountains—City of Zacatecas—A hot spring—A convent—Monkish legend—Indian discoveries—Protection by the Government—Regulations for mining—Different kinds of mines—Processes for purifying ore—Lawyers—Unjust treatment of Indian labourers—Payment in advance—Indian custom on receiving wages—Correction of offenders—A thief self-punished.

|217

|CHAPTER XVIII.

|AN AYUNTAMIENTO, OR TOWN COUNCIL.

|Municipal governors—Chairman of the party—An important councillor—A Mexican dandy's costume—An energetic speaker—Stolid gentlemen—A dirty millionaire—A victim of oppression—The assembly dissolved. 231

|231

|CHAPTER XIX.

|SCENES BEFORE THE ADMINISTRADORES.

|Mexican magistrates—A narrative before the bench—A mountain pathway—Indian adventurers—A journey to the capital—Clouds and sunshine—The city in prospect—Abrupt change in conversation—An oath extorted—Plunder and accidental death of the young Indian—A remorseless comrade—Narrative of a poor wanderer—Houses in Quito—Tornadoes—Description of an earthquake—Distressing situation—The sole survivor—A committal to the Accordada—Appalling sights in the city—Victims of vitriol-throwing—A child's face obliterated—Scavengers from the Accordada—Vitriol-throwing in Mexico—An officer's story—A criminal's revenge.

|239

|CHAPTER XX.

|ANECDOTES OF GENERAL SANTA ANNA.

|His power and popularity as President of the Republic—His characteristics and conduct—His capabilities as a general—Insurrections against his government—Anecdote of his perfidy—His fall and banishment—An Indian beggar's adventure—Indian superstition—Visit of the President to the Academy of Fine Arts—A lucky accident.

|259

|CHAPTER XXI.

|OUTBREAKS DURING THE WAR.

|The war in Mexico—Fondness for political changes—Treatment of prisoners by the Mexicans—Priestly exertions—Generosity of the Americans—The cumanche and the priest—An execution—A holy father's attempted revenge.

|275

Reginald Herbert Mason

Aspect of the country—Its different temperature and atmosphere—Principal cities—Plan of houses—State of society—Power of the priests—Middle and lower classes of people—Upper classes—Costumes—Mineral and vegetable productions—Scenery of Vera Cruz—Route to Xalapa—Town and suburbs—Gorgeous scene—Puebla.

The country of Mexico, generally, presents a very striking and peculiar aspect to a visitor from Europe. Its abrupt changes of climate and uneven volcanic structure, its rich natural productions and splendid scenery, together with the picturesque appearance of a portion of its inhabitants, and the wild looks of the remainder, arrest the attention most forcibly; while the degraded condition of its whole popu supplies abundant food for thought to the intelligent and humane.

Mexico is divided by nature into three portions, of different degrees of temperature,—the tierras calientes, or hot regions, principally adjoining the coast; the tierras frias, or cold regions; and the tierras templadas, or temperate regions, which include the valley and city of Mexico.

The atmosphere of the low districts, especially near the sea-ports, is exceedingly insalubrious; numerous residents annually falling victims to the prevalent fever-malaria; but the air of the elevated plains is buoyant and bracing, and so transparent that objects can be distinctly seen at the distance of many miles.

Several fine cities, containing magnificent cathedrals and spacious public buildings, adorn these states; Mexico and Puebla in the central, and Durango, Zacatecas, and Guanajuato in the northern districts, being the principal. The houses are usually built in the form of a square, round a patio, or court-yard, with offices on the ground-floor, and a large gateway for an entrance. The saloons in the upper story are invariably the most fashion

the azotea or flat roof—also characteristic of good houses here—affords an open and agreeable resort after sunset. The colour of the buildings and their materials appear strange to an unaccustomed eye: inferior houses are often built with adobé bricks, made of merely sun-dried clay; and the exterior walls in some neighbourhoods are daubed besides with glaring colours—red and blue and yellow.

The state of society throughout the country is most unequal and insecure; and rebellions and warlike proclamations have been rife, in consequence.

Ignorant and overbearing native priests, of the Roman Catholic religion, exercise despotic sway. In no country is their withering influence more distinctly manifested; and under their direction, superstition assumes its most oppressive and baneful forms.

The recognised middle class of the community is so unimportant, that there is scarcely any degree between splendid luxury and squalid wretchedness; neither is there any provision whatever for the forlorn and destitute. Poor, half-clad Indians form the most numerous class of the population: living in miserable huts built of canes, mud, and rushes, they are helpless and indolent; and there is at present little prospect of their condition improving.

Male and female léperos—creatures in rag's and tatters, who bandage their limbs to counterfeit disease—block up the principal streets of the towns and cities, incessantly imploring the charity of the passing stranger. The country highways and mountain paths, and even the thoroughfares adjoining the capital, are so infested with troops of mounted ladrones (robbers), that it is unsafe to travel, unless armed to the teeth: the government mails and public vehicles are frequently stopped and plundered by them.

The superior grades of the Mexican people are descended from the Spaniards who settled in the country before the revolution the rest are half-castes and native Indians. The men are for the most part short in stature, and deficient in muscular power; and their-minds are as indolent and enervated as their bodies.

The women have often agreeable, though somewhat flat features, and small hands and feet their hair either falls in long ringlets to the waist, or is gathered up into numerous bands and plaits: they are very fond of gay petticoats and dresses, and jewellery. A cotton reboso, or mantilla (cotton being more esteemed than silk in this country), is their favourite head-dress; stocking's are only to be seen on the feet of fashionable ladies. Gentlemen are usually dressed in the velvet jaceti, or jacket, adorned with silver buttons; a sombrero, or broad-brimmed hat, a sash, and slashed pantaloons—with a cloak, or serapé, thrown gracefully over the shoulders. The humbler ranks, however, are seldom possessed of more than a ragged shirt and breeches and a coarse blanket; or, failing these, of a long" cloak made of twisted rushes or water-flags.

The silver mines in the northern regions are numerous and productive; and princely fortunes have occasionally been derived from working them. The laws for the regulation of mines are, upon the whole, wise and equitable; encouragement being given by government to private companies. Gold, copper, and other precious metals and minerals have also been discovered in considerable quantities.

Mexico is tolerably free from wild beasts of a large and powerful kind; though numerous gangs of red wolves range the northern prai , and the forests and river sides abound in serpents and dangerous insects.

Few countries can compare with Mexico for the variety of its fruit, vegetable, and forest trees,—while in some districts may be seen the oaks and pines of colder regions, in others the productions of tropical climes flourish in full luxuriance. The agave, or aloe plant, here attains its full maturity, and is one of the most valuable mercantile commodities; chilé (Indian pepper), frijoles, and Indian corn are extensively cultivated; and both sugar and tobacco are grown and manufactured in great quantities. Sweet-scented shrubs and splendid flowers adorn the forest and the parterre; among the latter may be mentioned the Mexican convolvulus, the lupin, and the rose. The fruits of Europe, moreover,—the grape, peach, pear, and orange,—are only surpassed in excellence by the delicious tunas and cherimoyas, goyavas and pineapples, anonas and granaditas, more particularly belonging to the country.

But perhaps the varied and beautiful scenery of this republic, may be best understood by a brief description of the route from Vera Cruz—its great port on the Gulf of Mexico—to the capital.

The traveller is generally anxious to quit Vera Cruz as soon as possible. Its situation being low and in the range of a tropical sun, its atmosphere consequently is feverish and often deadly; the utmost care and prudence are requisite to preserve health, even for a short period. After visiting the churches and public building's, therefore, and procuring a passport, or carta del seguridad, for the interior, he should arrange with an armed troop of merchants and arrieros (carriers) to travel to the valley of Mexico in their company. This kind of journeying is more secure than travelling in the public vehicles; though it is in any case necessary to be equipped with rifles, knives, and revolving pistols, in case of encountering robbers on the dangerous roads.

The first great stage, on leaving the port, is to Xalapa—the garden of the country—where the inhabitants of the coast often resort to avoid the fever prevailing in their own districts. Although the way thither lies for many miles through the estate of Santa Anna—his old hacienda being passed to the right—the scene upon the whole is of the wildest character. As the sea-coast recedes from view, the different appearances of the country are very striking; the hills begin to rise above the tropical foliage, until the Snowy Mountains shew themselves on the horizon.

The traveller at first proceeds beside interminable looking forests of dark trees, interspersed with magnificent flowers and shrubs of gorgeous colours. A region of apparent volcanic formation—steep, barren, and irregular—is then presented; followed by districts set apart for the growth of the maguey plant, or agave, and chilé pepper. He is soon jogged and bruised in toiling up rough and broken paths by the mountain sides, where he seems, for a time, cut off entirely from the external world. Then he perceives other outspread forests of a fairer bloom than the former, the trees greener, the shrubs more fragrant, and the whole prospect more refreshing to the sight.

Descending a rocky elevation, where a dense blue mist is always floating, the effect of the sun's rays beneath is very beautiful: the line dividing the sunshine and the clouds may be clearly distinguished. On one point of the rocks, looking back as far upon the horizon as the eye can reach, the waters of the Gulf of Mexico sparkle in the brilliant light. And as Xalapa itself comes within sight, the parched bananas entirely give way to bright, fresh palm-trees; the rank, dry vegetation is superseded by rich and dewy herbage; and the inhabitants of the district appear handsomer, better-dressed, and more intelligent.

The town of Xalapa fully realizes the most extravagant expectations. The houses are open and healthy, and built on picturesque hills amid luxuriant trees. The female inhabitants are amiable and refined; and religion and morals are held in high esteem. But the greatest attraction to an intelligent traveller is presented by the scenery. Forests stretched out like a sea of liquid amber, studded with rich bananas and shady palms, mezquite groves and cypress trees, tuna shrubs and orange bushes; beds of red and blue, purple and yellow flowers, piled in rich harmonious profusion, with tufts of hanging blossoms, beautiful alike in themselves and in their promise of golden fruit, present a ravishing sight! Scarcely less lovely are the birds of gay plumage, the parroquets and pheasants, cockatoos and humming-birds—the brilliant colours of their plumage shining in the sunlight, as they flutter among the branches. The fruits, ripe and bursting—the cherimoyas and granaditas, anonas, grapes, and apricots, mammeis, pineapples, and goyavas, tunas, nuts, and sapotes; all unite to form a scene seldom to be equalled, and never to be forgotten!

The road beyond this beautiful spot is so unusually elevated, that the wayfarer appears to be walking among the clouds; sombre pines, volcanic beds, wild glens, and huge rocks, skirt the route at intervals. The villages of La Hoya and Las Vigas soon come in sight; and passing the mountains of Orizaba and Tepiacualca, the great plain of Perote begins to open on the view. The way to Perote from thence lies through a district much infested by robbers; the town itself being considered the most ruffianly in Mexico.

The next resting-place is Puebla, the second city of the republic; well situated, cleanly looking, healthy, and agreeable. The mountains that surround and shut in the splendid valley of Mexico now appear in sight; and gaining the track between their summits, the more minute peculiarities of the scene arrest the eye of the traveller. Broad lakes, sparkling here and there in the distance, impart life and brightness to the prospect; while groves of cypress and pine trees add elsewhere the charm of repose. Warm, light-coloured fields of corn and pasturage contrast vividly with extensive precipices and volcanic ridges; and chilé enclosures and bean-fields most effectively relieve the dark aspect of maguey plantations. And to crown the whole, after many dangers and narrow escapes upon the way, the magnificent city of Mexico is discovered, outspreading, like an ornate, mathematical problem, far below.

Reginald Herbert Mason

A traveller's greeting on entering the city of Mexico.—Narrow escape.—Lassoing.—Apathy of the authorities.—Suburb of San Lazaro.—A shocking sight.—"The Hotel of the Blood of Christ".—The host's welcome.—Don Concho.—A meson, or boarding-house.—A "spare room" and its contents.—A swarm of beggars.—The public room.—Dancing girls and other visitors.—The Fonda.—Mexican cookery.—Tortilla cakes.—Adventure of an Indian beggar.

Entering the city of Mexico by the Puerto de San Lazaro (gate of St. Lazarus), with my moso, I was startled by cries of "Stop Señor—the lasso—take care! Madre di Dios! he is upon you." "The lasso! To the left—Holy Virgin—stay!"

I had just time to wheel round the pony I was leadings when swift footsteps approached from behind, a sound as of rustling whipcord rushed past my ear, something appeared to hover for an instant over my right hand, and a wild and crouching figure on horseback thun by me, with the curse of disappointed villany upon his lips.

"There is another on our track!" exclaimed my attendant. "The plundering rascals! But no—blessed Mother!—now he turns away, discouraged by the ill success of his companion."

We had, indeed, narrowly escaped being corded like a couple of packages, thrown down, and robbed on the highway; for this second ruffian had doubtless intended to secure my fellow-traveller, had his comrade succeeded in rifling my person and saddle-bags.

This system of lassoing in the public streets of the capital is still pursued; although the authorities pretend to prohibit riding on horseback at night, that the practice may be suppressed, and endeavour to persuade people that mounted videttes are posted at the corners of the streets for the same purpose. The crime and negligence continually lying at their doors are woful: yet they have the assurance to give out that every precaution is taken to prevent the depredations of both ladrones and léperos. But the governors of Mexico are ridden by the priests: it is not to be expected that either watchmen or officers will do their duty unless they are regularly paid; nor that the authorities can pay them, when they are themselves so frequently in hot water; indeed, they cannot be in any other position, while almost all the wealth in the country is locked up either in the cathedrals, or the strong-boxes of the priests.

Our adventure was in perfect accordance with the miserable locality through which we now proceeded, and with the groups of wretched objects we ever and anon passed by. The streets were filthy and ill-conditioned in the extreme: even in the uncertain light of evening, I could perceive that the water in the kennels along the middle of the roads was putrid. The bye-courts were pent up and unhealthy; and the houses in some places were almost gorged by the heaps of rubbish before them.

The people were mere walking bundles of dirty rags—with oblique eyes, distorted limbs, bound-up heads, and offensive sores. They appeared to be of mixed descent, and of different shades of colour; but all looked sickly or ill-formed, and had a malignant or passionate look and reckless air. This is the worst quarter of the town and well, for several Reasons, does it deserve its title of the suburb of St. Lazarus.

Presently we passed something lying on the ground in the shadow of a court-yard, with a large-sized sombrero slouched upon its face. It seemed awfully motionless as I stooped down to gaze upon it; the limbs were rigid, the hands clenched, and blood was flowing on the earth beside it,—yet it attracted little or no attention from the residents and passers-by. It was the body of a murdered man who had just perished in a gaming quarrel; and it would be removed, most likely in company with one or two victims from other quarters, to the Morgue, before morning.

The streets gradually improved in appearance as we advanced; and as our jaded limbs, as well as the faltering steps of our animals, attested our need of rest, I looked wistfully round for some friendly and cleanly Meson, or boarding-inn, where we could take up our abode for the night: not without a melancholy foreboding, however, recollecting the detestable accommodations I had shared at innumerable places on my journey.

"But the 'Hotel of the Blood of Christ!'" thought I, interpreting a pompous and characteristically Mexican title overhead: "surely this must possess appliances and means of comfort better than ordinary: it would be sacrilege, indeed, to bestow such a name upon the accustomed filthy huts of mud and adobé. "Ease the ponies," I exclaimed; "call the host, and inquire what entertainment he can muster on so short a notice."

The door of the court-yard for some time only echoed to our knocks and vociferations for "Don Concho"; till at length a withered hand bearing a light, with a shrivelled fore head, sunken eyes, and nose and chin to match, emerged from an upper window: and the voice belonging to the nose and chin was heard to mutter its belief that "we must be either ladrones or sneaking zopilotes," and that we had, most likely, a design upon him.

As there are not many inns for travellers in Mexico (I do not include gaming-houses in the number, for their name is Legion), the landlord is well aware that a stranger cannot be very fastidious in his selection. Presuming upon this, he is generally a petty tyrant, and treats a casual guest exactly as he would a dependant on his bounty; indeed, such he considers him for the time being. "Don Concho" was one of the most irritable of his class: only give him an idea that you do not consider the city of Mexico the wonder of the world, and his the best establishment of the kind in it,—or that you do not think he conducts it in the most perfect manner,—and out you must budge, bag and baggage; with the most abusive epithets imaginable ringing in your ears.

Mollified by our entreaties, the door at last turned upon its hinges; and our eyes were refreshed by the sight of an avenue of sheds and rooms, beginning at the entrance, and embracing in its course a feeble attempt at a blacksmith's shop. The fond, or eating-house of the meson, was at the extreme end of the range; sheeps' fodder lay littering in every corner; a dilapidated old coach, with two turkeys dozing beneath it, blocked up the centre; and a number of raw hides hung drying on the walls around. I courteously preferred a request for rooms and refreshments; speculating in my own mind the while, as to where they—especially the rooms—could be found.

"No hai! no hai; Nada; no hai!" "We have nothing, nothing! We have no rooms; no refreshments: we cannot accommodate you!" Such were at first the only replies. Neither surprised nor despairing, however, I had recourse to an infallible remedy in the shape of a peso (dollar), with which I offered to satisfy mine host for his trouble. The sight of the coin elicited an avaricious twinkle from the faded eyes of Don Concho; and after a moment's pondering, and such a minute questioning as reminded me of the custom-house, he bade my moso take the ponies to an out-building, and prepared to submit his only spare apartment, as he said, to my scrutiny.

Numbers seven, eight, nine, and ten,—number one began, I supposed, at the sheds outside. Two rooms belonged to a holy "padre," who only occupied them occasionally; another was hired by a very respectable old gentleman, known as the "alcalde;" a third led to the entresol, or portion occupied by the domestics; and a fourth was the entrance to his own.

At length we stopped before the door which opened upon his "spare room;" which, unlike the others, was upon the ground-floor, and almost adjoining an entrance to the court-yard. Such a room! Yet, for a similar tenement, a traveller in Mexico has often to be grateful: and "it's nothings when you are used to it."

The apartment was low and confined, being not quite seven feet high, by about eleven square; and the wonder was, how it had been made to contain such an immense variety of miscellaneous articles. The floor was of earthy with here and there a patch of mud; and the first thing-that attracted my attention was a full grown mule lying on a heap of straw at one end; with his leg's stretched out in a very comfortable position. In one corner stood a decayed maguey plant (aloe) of large size; while broken pots, bones, charcoal, sticks, and hoofs, lay scattered about in confusion. On one side was a miserable sleeping-cot with a rope bottom; and on the other a rough table, with a pan of exceedingly dusty frijoles (beans) in the middle.

The walls were almost covered with vermin, and hung with tawdry ornaments: the central picture—a commanding one in point of size—had evidently been perpetrated with an intent to represent the Virgin, or Holy Mother of Guadaloupe, the patron saint of Mexico; and this figure, in common with some half-dozen other saints, all in Mexican costume, was surrounded by a halo of faded gilded rays.

In a niche stood a clumsy cross, with stony drops of blood issuing-from the limbs of the figure upon it, while a variety of articles of a different character were suspended around; among them a saddle and a halter, some sheepskins and a cuchillo (a weapon resembling-a knife), a pair of enormous silver spurs, with heavy Mexican stirrups belonging to them, a ragged reboso (or scarf for the head), an old pistol, a lasso, a broken powder-flask, and several not very devotional-looking-string's of beads.

The whole room had a miserable look of squalor, gloom, and mouldiness: it was a perfect lumber store, and thing's were huddled together in the most whimsical disorder: a pack of cards was thrust between the stone crucifix and the wall, a string-of beads hung from the same nail as the cuchillo, the reboso had fallen upon one of the sheepskins, the points of the spurs were piercing the' eyes of the Virgin, and the lasso—suspended from one of the picture-frames—hung-like a halter on the neck of a very hairy saint, dressed in a sombrero, slashed leathern trousers, and bright blue jaceti.

The floor was black, the ceiling was black, and the walls were black; so were the fleas, the skins, and the arms; the dead aloe, the crucifix, and the pan of beans, were blackening; the cot with the sacking bottom, the saddle, and the pictures were dark with dirt; and the tarnished glory round the heads of the saints loomed out in a greenish half-light from the surrounding obscurity. In short, a coating of dirt encrusted everything.

Such was the room in which I did not sleep; though the landlord was greatly surprised that any objection could be started against such quarters,—and it was not without a very stormy debate that he could be prevailed upon to grant me any other.

Beggary is a profession—by far the most universal one in the city of Mexico. I had before seen it in great force in other districts, and had heard much of its prevalence in the capital; but I certainly was not prepared for such a tumultuous exhibition of mendicity as I beheld next morning from the window of my apartment. A good-natured and remarkably shy-looking old gentleman, with a short white beard and a much lighter complexion than ordinary, was attempting to cross the court- yard; and, much to his discomfiture, was besieged by a swarm of léperos of both sexes, of all ages, and of various hues; each endeavouring to excite his compassion by the loudest outcries, and the most touching-adjurations.