Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management

Front matter

FISH.

MRS. BEETON'S

BOOK OF

Abridged Preface to the First Edition

ABRIDGED PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION

I must frankly own that, if I had known beforehand the labour which this book has entailed, I should never have been courageous enough to commence it. What moved me, in the first instance, to attempt a work like this, was the discomfort and suffering which I had seen brought about by household mis-management. I have always thought that there is no more fruitful source of family discontent than badly-cooked dinners and untidy ways. Men are now so well served out of doors—at clubs, hotels and restaurants—that, to compete with the attractions of these places, a mistress must be thoroughly acquainted with the theory and practice of cookery, as well as all the other arts of making and keeping a comfortable home.

In this book I have attempted to give, in the chapters devoted to cookery, an intelligible arrangement to every recipe, a list of the ingredients, a plain statement of the method of preparing each dish, and a careful estimate of its cost, the number of people for whom sufficient, and the time when seasonable. Friends in England, Scotland, Ireland, France and Germany have very materially aided me. A diligent comparison with the works of the best modern writers on cookery has also been necessary to the faithful fulfilment of my task. But in the department belonging to the Cook I have striven to make my work something more than a Cookery-Book, and have, therefore, given a short account of the natural history of the animals and vegetables which we use as food. I have followed the animals from their birth to their appearance on the table; have described their management; the position of the various joints; and the methods of carving Meat, Poultry and Game. Skilful artists have designed the numerous drawings which illustrate many important and interesting items. The coloured plates are a novelty not without value.

Towards the end of the work will be found valuable chapters on the "Management of Children," "The Doctor," "Legal Memoranda," which have been contributed by a great physician and an eminent solicitor. I wish here to acknowledge the kind letters and congratulations I have received during the progress of this work, and have only further to add, that I trust the result of the four years' incessant labour which I have expended will not be altogether unacceptable to some of my countrymen and countrywomen.

248, Strand, 1861.

ISABELLA BEETON.

Analytical Index

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Analytical Index

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Chapter I. The Mistress

CHAPTER I

The Housewife, Home Virtues, Hospitality, Good Temper, Dress and Fashion, Engaging Domestics, Wages of Servants, Visiting, Visiting Cards, Parties, Etc., Etc.

"Strength and honour are her clothing; and she shall rejoice in time to come. She openeth her mouth with wisdom; and in her tongue is the law of kindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household, and eateth not the bread of idleness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed; her husband also, and he praiseth her."—Proverbs xxxi. 25–28.

The Functions of the Mistress of a House resemble those of the general of an army or the manager of a great business concern. Her spirit will be seen in the whole establishment, and if she performs her duties well and intelligently, her domestics will usually follow in her path. Among the gifts that nature has bestowed on woman, few rank higher than the capacity for domestic management, for the exercise of this faculty constantly affects the happiness, comfort and prosperity of the whole family. In this opinion we are borne out by the author of The Vicar of Wakefield, who says:—"The modest virgin, the prudent wife, and the careful matron are much more serviceable in life than petticoated philosophers, blustering heroines, or virago queans. She who makes her husband and her children happy is a much greater character than ladies described in romances, whose whole occupation is to murder mankind with shafts from the quiver of their eyes."

The Housewife.—Although this word may be used to describe any mistress of a household, it seems more fittingly applied to those who personally conduct their domestic affairs than to others who govern with the assistance of a large staff of well-trained servants. Times have changed since 1766, when Goldsmith wrote extolling home virtues; and in few things is the change more marked than in woman's sphere; but a woman should not be less careful in her management or blameless in her life because the spirit of the age gives her greater scope for her activities. Busy housewives should be encouraged to find time in the midst of domestic cares for the recreation and social intercourse which are necessary to the well-being of all. A woman's home should be first and foremost in her life, but if she allow household cares entirely to occupy her thoughts, she is apt to become narrow in her interests and sympathies, a condition not conducive to domestic happiness. To some overworked women but little rest or recreation may seem possible, but, generally speaking, the leisure to be enjoyed depends upon proper methods of work, punctuality, and early rising. The object of the present work is to give assistance to those who desire practical advice in the government of their home.

Early Rising contributes largely to good Household Management; she who practises this virtue reaps an ample reward both in health and prosperity. When a mistress is an early riser, it is almost certain that her house will be orderly and well managed. On the contrary, if she remain in bed till a late hour, then the servants, who, as we have observed, invariably acquire some of their mistress's characteristics, are likely to become sluggards. To self-indulgence all are more or less disposed, and it is not to be expected that servants are freer from this fault than the heads of houses. The great Lord Chatham gave this advice:— "I would have inscribed on the curtains of your bed, and the walls of your chamber, 'If you do not rise early, you can make progress in nothing.'" Cleanliness is quite indispensable to Health, and must be studied both in regard to the person and the house, and all that it contains. Cold or tepid baths should be employed every morning. The bathing of children will be treated of under the heads of "The Nurse" and "The Doctor." Many diseases would be less common than they are if the pores of the skin were kept open.

Frugality and Economy are Virtues without which no household can prosper. The necessity of economy should be evident to every one, whether in possession of an income barely sufficient for a family's requirements, or of a large fortune which seems to put financial adversity out of the question. We must always remember that to manage well on a small income is highly creditable. "He is a good waggoner," says Bishop Hall, "that can turn in a little room. To live well in abundance is the praise of the estate, not of the person. I will study more how to give a good account of my little than how to make it more." In this there is true wisdom, and it may be added that those who can manage small things well are probably fitted for the management of greater. Economy and frugality must never, however, be allowed to degenerate into meanness.

A Judicious Choice of Friends is most essential to the happiness of a household. An acquaintance who indulges in scandal about her neighbours should be avoided as a pestilence. While ever attending to the paramount claims of home, a lady should not altogether neglect social duties. The daily round of work is much more pleasant if cheered by intercourse with friends, who are often able to give, or pleased to receive, help in the little difficulties that may occur in everyday life. Another point of view is that most women look forward to some

FRUIT.

day guiding their daughters in society, and in this cherished hope have a motive for not abstaining too much from social intercourse. One is apt to become narrow-minded by living too much in the home circle; it is not well to get out of the way of meeting fresh people. It is important also that children should have the advantage of mixing with other young people, though of course parents should exercise every precaution against the evils of bad company.

Friendships should not be hastily formed, or the heart given to every newcomer. There are women who smile on every chance acquaintance, and who have not the courage to reprove vice or defend virtue. Addison, the greatest essayist, observes that—"A friendship which makes the least noise is very often the most useful; for which reason, I should prefer a prudent friend to a zealous one."

The advice Shakespeare makes Polonius give to his son Laertes is thoroughly sound:—

Those friends thou hast, and their adoption tried, Grapple them to thy soul with hoops of steel; But do not dull thy palm with entertainment Of each new-hatched, unfledged comrade.

Hospitality should be practised; but care must be taken that the love of company, for its own sake, does not become a prevailing passion; such a habit is no longer hospitality, but dissipation. Reality and sincerity in this, as in all duties of life, should be studied; for, as Washington Irving says—"There is an emanation from the heart in genuine hospitality which cannot be described, but is immediately felt, and puts the stranger at once at his ease." A lady, when she first undertakes the responsibility of a household, should not attempt to retain all the mere acquaintances of her youth. Her true and tried friends are treasures never to be lightly lost, but they, and the friends she will make by entering her husband's circle, and very likely by moving to a new locality, should provide her with ample society.

In Conversation one should never dwell unduly on the petty annoyances and trivial disappointments of the day. Many people get into the bad habit of talking incessantly of the worries of their servants and children, not realizing that to many of their hearers these are uninteresting if not wearisome subjects. From one's own point of view, also, it is well not to start upon a topic without having sufficient knowledge to discuss it with intelligence. Important events, whether of joy or sorrow, should be told to friends whose sympathy or congratulation may be welcome. A wife should never allow a word about any faults of her husband to pass her lips; and in conversation, she should keep the counsel of Cowper continually in her memory,—that it should flow naturally and not

"As if raised by mere mechanic powers."

The secret of our conversation being entertaining or the reverse consists mainly on our powers of suiting it to the minds of those with whom we are speaking. With some it is necessary to make but little effort for they much prefer to talk themselves, and it is then the duty of the hostess to listen with as much interest as she can command. Other people are shy, and then a good deal of tact is required to find out subjects congenial to them, for there are sure to be some in which they are interested, and it is well for the mistress of a household to know a little of the current topics of the day.

Cheerfulness.—We cannot too strongly insist on the vital importance of always preserving an equable good temper amidst all the little cares and worries of domestic life. Many women may be heard to declare that men cannot realize the petty anxieties of a household. But a woman must cultivate that tact and forbearance without which no man can hope to succeed in his career. The true woman combines with mere tact that subtle sympathy which makes her the loved companion and friend alike of husband, children and all around her. Stevenson's is worth remembering: "The day returns, and brings us the petty round of irritating concerns and duties. Help us to play the man, help us to perform them with laughter and kind faces, let cheerfulness abound with industry. Give us to go blithely on our business all this day, bring us to our resting beds weary and content and undishonoured, and grant us in the end the gift of sleep."

On the Important Subject of Dress and Fashion we cannot do better than quote: "Let people write, talk, lecture, satirize, as they may, it cannot be denied that, whatever is the prevailing mode in attire, let it intrinsically be ever so absurd, it will never look as ridiculous as another, which, however convenient, comfortable, or even becoming is totally opposite in style to that generally worn." A lady's dress should be always suited to her circumstances, and varied for different occasions. The morning dress should be neat and simple, and suitable for the domestic duties that usually occupy the early part of the day. This dress should be changed before calling hours; but it is not in good taste to wear much jewellery except with evening dress. A lady should always aim at being well and attractively dressed whilst never allowing questions of costume to establish inordinate claims on either time or purse. In purchasing her own garments, after taking account of the important detail of the length of her purse, she should aim at adapting the style of the day in such a manner as best suits the requirements of her face, figure and complexion, and never allow slavish adherence to temporary fads of fashion to overrule her own sense of what is becoming and befitting. She should also bear in mind that her different costumes have to furnish her with apparel for home wear, outdoor exercise and social functions, and try to allot due relative importance to the claims of each.

The advice of Polonius to his son Laertes, in Hamlet, is excellent; and although given to one of the male sex, will equally apply to the question of a woman's dress:—

"Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy. But not express'd in fancy; rich, not gaudy; For the apparel oft proclaims the man."

Charity is a Duty and privilege that we owe to ourselves as well as to our needy neighbours. There is, we hope, hardly any one so poor, but that with a little thought he can give assistance, in works if not in goods, to others. As a poet has sung—

" Is thy cruse of comfort wasting, Rise and share it with another, And through all the years of famine It shall serve thee and thy brother, For the heart grows rich by giving, All its wealth is living grain; Seeds that moulder in the garner. Scattered, fill with gold the plain— Scanty food for one will often Make a royal feast for two."

Personal work, care and time are however necessary if our gifts are to have the best effect. Fortunately, the duty of visiting the poor, whether in crowded city slums or rustic villages, was never more widely recognized than at the present time. It should not be necessary to urge all who undertake this duty to lay aside any patronizing attitude, which may do untold harm. A heartfelt sense of the real dignity of honest, self-supporting poverty is one of the first essentials in such work.

Marketing.—Much information for guidance and assistance will be found in our average price lists in the chapter on "Marketing" and in the observations before the cookery sections for Fish, Meat, Poultry, Game, Vegetables, Fruit, etc. That the best articles will prove the cheapest in the long run, and that the purchase of low priced and untrustworthy substitutes for reliable articles should be avoided, may be laid down as fundamental rules for marketing. It is most desirable that whenever possible the mistress should herself purchase all stores needed for the home. Should the young wife lack knowledge upon these subjects, a little personal practice and experience will soon teach her the best articles to buy and the most reliable places to deal at.

Accounts of Household Expenditure should always be kept, and kept punctually and precisely. The best plan for keeping household accounts is to write down in a daily diary every amount, be it ever so small, spent each day; then, at the end of a week or month, let these payments be ranged under their various heads of Butcher, Baker, etc. Thus the amounts paid to each tradesman will be seen, and any week's or month's expenses can be contrasted with those of another. The housekeeping accounts should be balanced not less than once a month—once a week is better; and it should be seen that the money in hand agrees with the accounts. "My advice," said Mr. Micawber to David Copperfield, "you know. Annual income twenty pounds, annual expenditure nineteen, nineteen six, result happiness. Annual income twenty pounds, annual expenditure twenty pounds, ought and six, result misery. The blossom is blighted, the leaf is withered, the God of day goes down upon the dreary scene, and in short you are for ever floored." Once a month it is advisable that the mistress overlook her store of glass and china, marking any breakages on the inventory of these articles.

When a housekeeper is entrusted with these duties, the mistress should examine her accounts regularly. Then, any increase of expenditure can easily be examined, the mistress will have a regular check upon her expenditure, and the housekeeper who strives to manage her department well and economically will know that her efforts are appreciated.

Engaging Servants is one of the most important duties the mistress is called upon to perform. One of the commonest ways of procuring servants is to answer advertisements or to insert a notice, setting forth what kind of servant is required. In these advertisements it is well to state whether the house is in town or country, and indicate the wages given. There are many respectable registry-offices, where good servants may be hired. A good plan is for the mistress to tell her friends and acquaintances of the vacant place. A lady whose general relations with her domestics are friendly, and fairly permanent, will seldom need to employ any of these methods. Suitable applicants will soon present themselves to fill the vacant places, generally friends of the domestic who is obliged to leave.

We would here point out an error—and a grave one—into which some mistresses fall. They do not, when engaging a servant, tell her all the duties which she will be expected to perform. All the work which the maid will have to do should be plainly set forth by the mistress, and understood by the servant. If this plan is not carefully adhered to, misunderstanding is almost certain to occur, and may not be easily settled.

Servants' Character.—It is hardly safe to be guided by a written one from an unknown quarter; it is better to have an interview, if possible, with the former mistress. In this way you will be helped in your decision as to the fitness of the servant by the appearance of her former place. No mistress desires a needless change of servants. The proper way to obtain a personal interview with a servant's former employer is to tell the applicant for the situation to ask her former mistress to appoint a convenient time when you may call on her; this courtesy being necessary to prevent any unseasonable intrusion on the part of a stranger. Your first questions should be relative to the honesty and general morality of the servant; and if the replies are satisfactory, her other qualifications are then to be ascertained. Inquiries should be very minute, so that you may avoid disappointment and trouble, by knowing the weak points of your domestic. Your questions also should be brief, as well as to the point.

In giving a Character, it is scarcely necessary to say that one should be guided by a sense of strict justice. It is not right to recommend a servant one would not keep oneself. The benefit to the servant herself is of small advantage, for the failings which she possesses will increase if indulged with impunity. At the same time, a mistress should never fail to do strict and impartial justice to any merits of her late servant, and should always remember the vital value of good references to one who depends on her labour for a living.

The Treatment of Servants is of the greatest importance to both mistress and domestics. If the latter perceive that their mistress's conduct is regulated by high and correct principles, they will not fail to respect her; and if a real desire is shown to promote their comfort, while at the same time a steady performance of their duty is exacted, then well-principled servants will be anxious to earn approval, and their respect will not be unmingled with affection.

A lady should never allow herself to forget the important duty of watching over the moral and physical welfare of those beneath her roof. Without seeming unduly inquisitive, she can always learn something of their acquaintances and holiday occupation, and should, when necessary, warn them against the dangers and evils of bad company. An hour should be fixed, usually 10 or 9 p.m., after which no servant should be allowed to stay out. To permit breaches of this rule, without having good and explicit reasons furnished, is very far from being a kindness to the servant concerned. The moral responsibility for evil that may result rests largely on the employer who permits late hours. Especial care is needed with young girls. They should be given opportunities for welcoming respectable friends at their employer's house, and not be forced by absence of such provision for their comfort to spend their spare time out of doors, often in driving rain, possibly in bad company.

Wages of Servants.—The following Table of the average yearly wages paid to domestics, will serve to regulate the expenditure of an establishment. The amounts given will, of course, vary according to experience and locality, extent of duties, supply and demand. No Table could possibly be given which would not be subject to alteration under special circumstances, but taken as a general average these payments will be appropriate and form as reliable a guide as could possibly be given. In most establishments such men-servants as coachman, footman, and page, are provided with livery by their employers. This does not affect the question of wages.

Whilst writing on this subject, we would warn the young wife not to let mistaken notions of economy make her lose, for the sake of saving a trifle in wages, the services of a trusted and efficient domestic. The difference in expense between good and bad servants in a house can only be learned by experience. A really good servant can save her employers far more than her wages and keep amount to, a bad one would be a poor bargain if she gave her services for nothing.

MEN SERVANTS.

House Steward | From | £60 | to | £100

Groom of the Chambers | From | £45 | to | £55

Valet | From | £35 | to | £50

Cook | From | £100

Head Gardener (not in the house) | From | £70 | to | £120

Under Gardener | From | £40 | to | £45

Butler | From | £55 | to | £90

Under Butler | From | £35 | to | £45

Footman | From | £18 | to | £40

Under Footman | From | £18 | to | £34

Second Footman | From | £18 | to | £34

Coachman | From | £40 | to | £70

Coachman (not in the house) | From | £70 | to | £90

Groom | From | £25 | to | £35

Under Groom | From | £18 | to | £25

Page | From | £12 | to | £18

Stable Boy | From | £6 | to | £12

Servants' Hall Boy | From | £6 | to | £12

Steward's Boy | From | £8 | to | £15

Head Gamekeeper | From | £100 | to | £150

Under Gamekeeper | From | £50 | to | £70

|WOMEN SERVANTS | Everything found, or an allowance for the same.

|Housekeeper | From | £30 | to | £60

|Lady's Maid | From | £25 | to | £40

|Cook | From | £20 | to | £60

|Kitchen Maid | From | £16 | to | £28

|Scullery Maid | From | £14 | to | £18

|Still-room Maid | From | £18 | to | £28

|Head Nurse | From | £25 | to | £35

|Under Nurse | From | £12 | to | £18

|Head Laundry Maid | From | £22 | to | £30

|Under Laundry Maid | From | £12 | to | £20

|Parlour Maid | From | £20 | to | £35

|Head Housemaid | From | £20 | to | £28

|Under Housemaid | From | £14 | to | £18

|General Servant | From | £12 | to | £28

These are the wages that prevail in or near the Metropolis. The wages of under servants vary considerably according to locality; and they are often much lower in large establishments where young servants receive a good training than in middle-class households.

Number of Servants suited to different incomes.—The following is a rough scale of servants suited to various incomes. It is, however, impossible to give any general rule in these matters. Whether in a household of moderate means such as our scales deal with, a man-servant is required, will depend upon whether the house is situated in town or country, and if the possession of horses or a garden renders his services imperative. One should not forget that when heavy expenses such as those of education have to be incurred for a family, this outlay must be carefully allowed for, before committing oneself in other directions. Similarly, where two servants are kept, and a nurse is required for young children, it will probably be deemed wise to dispense with the services of the housemaid, and arrange for the nurse to give some help to the cook.

When one is considering if an extra servant is necessary or not, it is well to remember that assistance may sometimes be profitably arranged by engaging a lad for two or three hours a day to do such rough work as cleaning boots and shoes, working in the garden, etc.; and, when uncertain whether to engage a gardener, one should not forget that a man not coming more than four days a week does not render an employer liable to the duty on man servants.

About £1,000 a year. Cook, housemaid, and perhaps a man-servant.

From £750 to £500 a year. Cook, housemaid.

About £300 a year. General servant.

About £200 a year. Young girl for rough work.

Daily Duties.—Having thus indicated the general duties of a mistress in the moral government of her household, we will now give a few instructions on practical details. To do this more clearly, we will begin with the earliest duties, and set forth the occupations of the day.

Before Breakfast.—Having risen early and attended to the toilet, see that the children receive proper care, and are clean and comfortable. The first meal of the day, breakfast, will then be served, at which all the family should be punctually present, unless illness, or other circumstances, prevent. After breakfast is over, the mistress should make a round of the kitchen and other offices, to see that all is in order, and that the early morning's work has been properly performed by the various domestics. The orders for the day should then be given; and any questions which the domestics may ask should be answered, and any articles they require given out. Where a housekeeper is engaged, she will of course perform the above-named duties.

Prompt notice should be taken of the first appearance of slackness, neglect, or any faults in domestic work, so that the servant may know that her mistress is quick to detect the least disorder, and will not pass unsatisfactory work. Small faults allowed to pass unreproved quickly increase. A failing easily cured if promptly dealt with, is almost hopeless when it has been allowed to develop into a habit.

After this General Superintendence of her servants, the mistress will probably have a certain number of letters to write, possibly some marketing or shopping to do, besides numberless small duties which are better done early in the day, such as arranging the flowers for drawing-room and dinner-table, etc. If she be the mother of a young family there may be some instruction to give them, or some of their wardrobes to inspect, and needlework to be done. Time should also be allotted for reading and harmless recreation.

If a lady does much plain needlework a sewing-machine is indispensable. With its help she can make and mend many articles used by her children and herself, and this without undue fatigue. The assistance of such an appliance is invaluable in every home, especially to a mother of daughters. Hand-sewing is slow and laborious, and unless provided with a sewing-machine, there is little inducement for any one to practise home-dressmaking. Apart from the valuable experience gained in cutting-out, fitting, altering and re-making, a great saving may be effected.

Luncheon.—In establishments where an early dinner is served, that meal will, of course, take the place of the luncheon. In many houses, where a nursery dinner is provided for the children about one o'clock, the elder members of the family usually make their luncheon at the same time. If circumstances are not strongly against the arrangement, the children of the house should take their dinner with their mother. It is far better for children to have their principal meal in the company of their mother and other members of the family, as soon as they are able to feed themselves properly. Many little vulgar habits and faults of speech and manner are avoided by this companionship. The mother can thus better watch over her children's health, and see that their food is properly cooked, served, and suited to them. Children who are accustomed to the society of their seniors at their meals will not be awkward or shy with visitors, or when they are staying from home. The nurse, likewise, by this plan is released, for a short period, from the care of her little charges, and, while she enjoys her dinner with her fellow-servants, "waiting on the nurse," a great objection with many housemaids, is avoided.