How She Became Beautiful

Front matter

A GUIDE

TO THE

CULTIVATION AND PRESERVATION OF

Chapter 1

ppoem|{smaller} Beauty, whether waking or sleeping, Shoots forth peculiar graces."—Milton.

BEAUTY, in a woman, is a dower more precious than gold or silver. Its presence is indefinable and impressive, and should be considered by the possessor a great boon—its cultivation and preservation a duty.

A popular authoress affirms that, however frivolous it may sound, she would have women develop their physical attractions rather than their mental.

An ill-dressed woman, be she as learned as all the 'ologies and all the sciences can make her, is an unlovely object; but a tasteful "guise" renders a woman attractive.

The new school of beauty culturists declare that the woman who is not beautiful by the time she is sixty years of age, has wasted her time. Correct living will preserve her complexion and figure, and an indomitable determination to "grow old gracefully" will, in a great degree, preserve her youth.

A quiet, natural, unobtrusive manner is of utmost importance to render a woman attractive.

A low, sweet voice, that "excellent thing in woman," is ever one of her chief charms and indicative of "good breeding."

A prominent society lady says: "Women who are gifted with a remarkable power of song sway the multitude; but the women who can make music as they talk, sway hearts."

The foundation of good breeding should begin at home. From infancy, this should be taught; but if education, in this respect, has been neglected, much can be learned through observation and association with people of refinement and culture.

To be a favorite in society, self must be ignored and the comfort and happiness of others receive special consideration.

Madame De Stael said she "would give half her knowledge for personal charms," and a celebrated actress asserts that "men prefer semi-fools;" but this is rather a sweeping assertion.

It must be acknowledged that the sweet, feminine, witty little woman, with sufficient knowl- edge not to commit a "frightful faux-pas," is more frequently chosen for the wife and mother; but it is none the less true that men place a high estimate upon intellectual qualities, and admire the highly educated woman, if she be also womanly.

A popular author asserts that "tranquil happiness causes a woman to grow old and wrinkled." If this be true, the cares and anxieties of life only enhance beauty and give expression to the countenance.

ppoem|{fine} What, then, is beauty? Not the show Of shapely limbs and features, no; These are but flowers That have their dated hours To breathe their momentary sweets, then go. 'Tis the stainless soul within That outshines the fairest skin."

The real charm of any face is in the impress of thought and character, rather than in regularity of feature and brilliant complexion. By culture, then, of the intellect and the soul, all may become beautiful in the truest, highest sense; for

ppoem|{fine} Beauty was lent to nature as the type Of heaven's unspeakable and holy joy, Where all perfection makes the sum of bliss."

Chapter 2

ppoem|{smaller} Her cheek had the pale pearly pink.

Of sea-shells, the world's sweetest tint, as though

She lived, one half might deem, on roses sopped

In silver dew."—Bailey's Festus.

NOTHING is more suggestive of purity of mind and health of body than a "clear complexion," and, even though the features be irregular, no woman is wholly unattractive if she is the fortunate possessor of this "good gift."

Emma Abbott asserts that "intelligence and goodness will atone for ugly features; but an ugly complexion is not to be condoned in these days of advanced science. To be beautiful a woman needs only—knowledge."

Mme. Jane Hading tells us that "if we cannot make beautiful what nature has failed to furnish, we do not know the value of art."

This desirable complexion cannot be secured by mere outward application of cosmetics, but many things are essential, among which health and cleanliness are, perhaps, most important. Exercise in the open air also develops the form, and gives roundness to the limbs, thus contributing largely to health and, consequently, to beauty of complexion.

The instrumentality of the digestive organs in producing a good complexion, is frequently ignored; but it is an established fact that indigestion darkens and reddens both face and hands. Attention to the laws of health and proper medical treatment will, in time, overcome this difficulty.

That cleanliness is one of the most potent promoters of health and beauty, needs no argument here. A Turkish bath, once in two weeks, followed by a generous anointing with almond oil, will benefit the skin more than a year's steady application to the face alone.

At the same time, the Turkish bath does not prove beneficial to all, and there are a number of cases on record where the alternate heat and cold have been attended with disastrous effects; but with all such the warm water bath, once or twice weekly, may be substituted.

More frequent bathing is desirable for those who find it healthful; but it is debilitating to many and hence detrimental; to such, the daily use of a flesh brush or coarse towel will be found advan- tageous, as it increases the circulation and restores vigor to the system.

A tepid bath is adapted to every age and, in declining years, will preserve youthful appearance and strengthen waning faculties.

A little ammonia in the bath will be found very refreshing. It will give tone to the system, firmness to the flesh, and remove all odor of perspiration.

Bran put in a thin muslin bag and allowed to remain in the bath for some time before use, is excellent for softening and whitening the skin. This is equally beneficial to the face. Fill a soft flannel bag, six or eight inches square, with bran or almond meal, and, with it, wash the face; if applied at night, allow it to dry on the skin.

When washing and drying the face, rub always from the chin toward the ears. This prevents the flabby appearance of the cheeks and neck in later years, if strictly observed from childhood.

Add a few drops of lavender or other extract to the water, in which the face is washed. It will be all the perfume a lady of refinement will desire—the "perfume of the presence," as it might well be styled.

A London physician says: "It is best to bathe just before going to bed, as any danger of taking cold is thus avoided, and the complexion is improved by keeping warm several hours after the bath.

Another important "factor" in this desirable "product" is a generous "amount" of "tired nature's sweet restorer." Patti says: "Plenty of sleep is the secret of preserving one's beauty."

The air of the sleeping apartment, however, in order to be conducive to health and beauty, must never become vitiated, but be kept pure by free circulation.

Early rising, also, has a beneficial effect upon the complexion, the purity and invigorating qualities of "morning air" being everywhere conceded, and a short, brisk walk before breakfast acts like a tonic to the system.

While this "pale, pearly pink of sea-shells" is, for the most part, considered very attractive for the complexion, by a strange perversity of human nature, the favorite summer tint of late years has been "tan," and many of the "fair sex," sojourning at watering places, expose themselves to the sun to obtain a dark "coat of tan"—the darker the more fashionable. This is a great mistake, for, in many cases, the complexion never resumes its fresh, white, healthy appearance. A beautiful child of ten years lost her clear skin forever, in consequence of this foolish "fad." She is now a young lady with a thick, swarthy complexion, and all that money can procure, or care devise has been done to eradicate the unfortunate fashion of a season; but to no avail.

Ladies with delicate complexions, which burn easily in the sun, should wear red veils, as they give the best protection to the face.

Various specifics for whitening and beautifying the complexion are recommended, and we append a few which may be used with impunity.

During the reign of Charles II, the court beauties were said to use the following lotion: To a quart of rose, orange or clear water, add, drop by drop, stirring all the while, an ounce of simple tincture of benzoin. This emulsion has a delicious odor and looks like cream. It is most excellent for removing wrinkles, and, as a preventive, nothing can compare with it.

A mask of quilted cotton wet with cold water, and worn while sleeping has been found excellent for softening and refining the complexion. This should be worn for two or three months, and one will be amply rewarded for the discomfort endured.

The following recipe for making cold cream is recommended by a reliable authority:

Melt these in an earthen jar over hot water, beat with a silver spoon while cooling, until snow-white.

As for "powders," there must be wise and careful selection, as grave disfigurements, sometimes, arise from the use of cheap powders, injurious by reason of certain chemical ingredients. By absorption into the skin, the health has often been impaired and, in not a few instances, death has resulted.

Two young ladies living in a western city used a cheap powder containing white lead, and, in consequence, one lost the use of her fingers and arms, and the other is subject to frequent spasms. Another lady purchased a cheap pink powder and in a short time her face was covered with rough red spots resembling ring worms. There are, in short, among the toilet powders now in the market, many which irritate delicate skins.

In making up the face for evening, first apply cold cream thoroughly, wipe off with a fine linen handkerchief, and carefully powder. Pencil the eyebrows, apply a little color to the lips, the lower part of the cheeks and inside the ears. Tint the mouth with great care, as too much color in the corners widens it, and a large mouth can be toned down by powdering the corners and increasing the arch in the centre of the upper lip. Touch all lightly with powder to soften the tint. For the color, a red silk rose is inexpensive and harmless; or the following recipe for rose lip salve may be used:

Melt together in an earthen bowl placed in a pot of hot water; keep hot for five hours to extract the color from the alkanet root; strain through flannel; add perfume when cool; stir until cold.

To give natural color to the cheeks, rub the throat and neck sharply. This friction will render the skin there smooth and white, and will send the blood surging to the face.

That the use of arsenic will whiten the complexion, for a time, is undoubtedly true, but no one, who understands the terrible effects of such folly, will ever make use of so dangerous a cosmetic. Physicians testify that the result is dropsy, idiocy and death, and the sallow, deadened com- plexion produced by its use for a few years is far from beautiful. Preferable, indeed, is the "clear, pink and white," which is the exponent of perfect health.

The recklessness of some women in the use of liberally advertised toilet articles and drugs, can not be too emphatically condemned. Paralysis and death have been proved to result from the use of poisonous powders. Arsenic, oxide of zinc, white lead and Paris white are all used, to a greater or less extent, in many deliciously perfumed powders.

We know of nothing so harmless, and yet so beneficial to the complexion, as Mrs. Emms' Medicated Powder Rags. They contain their own cold cream and powder, both warranted to be of the purest quality. They are for general use, and any additional powder does not injure them, but renders their use more effectual. They are the conception of a prominent society actress, who is the unfortunate possessor of a shiny complexion which she finds necessary to tone down, constantly, and hence is compelled to carry powder with her at all times. In sheer desperation, she consulted us; gave several suggestions upon the subject, and after many ineffectual attempts to utilize them, success crowned our efforts.

These "rags" can be slipped in the pocket, and quietly used in any emergency when the face is over-heated. After using a few times, no trace of powder will be seen on the face, but the complexion will appear clear and brilliant.

Rubbing the hands with the powder-rag will keep them white and soft, and also prevent chapping. No application of cold cream is necessary before boating, driving or sea-bathing, as the powder-rag furnishes its own, and will prevent tan and sunburn.

For summer outings, and, indeed, upon all occasions, where the application of cold cream or powder is desirable, Mrs. Emms' Self-supplying Powder Rags will be found invaluable.

Chapter 3

ppoem|{smaller} From women's eyes this doctrine I derive; They sparkle still the right Promethean fire; They are the books, the arts, the academies, That show, contain, and nourish all the world; Else none at all in aught proves excellent."—Shakspeare.

THE eye is the most beautiful optical instrument in the world. Without it, as another has said, all the beauties of field and forest, the very face of nature, indeed, would be to us a perfect blank. Through it, flows into the soul of man as he goes forth amid the beauties of nature with which a bounteous Creator has surrounded us, an ever-constant stream of happiness and delight.

But this organ, like all others of the body, is subject to decay, and its delicate structure renders it extremely liable to accident and disease, in the treatment of which, the greatest possible care should be exercised. Applications of tepid or cold water are usually very efficacious for inflamed eyes, unless caused by erysipelas, in which case moisture is often injurious. Saliva is considered excellent for ordinary inflammation of the eye, especially if applied in the morning. One lady cured a small tumor on her eyelid in this way, and another successfully removed a wart from her nose.

The use of borax dissolved in cold water is strongly recommended by some physicians as a soothing remedy for inflamed eyes.

When washing and drying the face, the eyes should be rubbed inward instead of outward, as this has a tendency to preserve the eye-sight. A lady who followed this plan from childhood, though now fifty years of age, has never worn glasses. Near-sightedness has, also, been cured in the same manner.

To remove a speck of any kind from the eye, rub the opposite eye or insert a grain of flax seed under the lid; this is excellent, and will alleviate the pain in a short time.

For tired, aching or weeping eyes, put into a two ounce vial of water, half a teaspoonful of essence of peppermint, and having shaken well, apply to the eyes. Increase the proportion of water if found too strong. It should produce, for the moment, a slight warmth, the after effect being agreeable, cooling and healing.

A harmless way of brightening the eyes, is to eat a piece of lump sugar, wet with cologne. It will also sweeten the breath, and thus serve two purposes.

Spectacles were formerly considered necessary for the aged only, but, at the present day, it is not uncommon to see them worn by young children. A well-known oculist says this is often made necessary by the use of baby carriages in which infants are not properly shaded from the sun; many of them being uncanopied, or having a canopy as flimsy as a butterfly's wing. An old-fashioned baby-cart is not so stylish, but it is far better for the eyes of the delicate infant.

Sight has often been improved by gently pressing the eyes when closed, and by bathing them frequently.

Twitching of the muscles of the eye is caused by general weakness of the system, and the remedy is—rest.

Extreme sleepiness and inability to keep the eyes open is not a disease of the eye, but nature's demand for her just dues. A physician once prescribed a week's sleep and rest in such a case, and a cure was effected.

Training the eyes to distinguish objects at a long distance, strengthens and prolongs the eyesight.

The sty is caused by a hair which grows inward and irritates the eye, until a little boil is developed. If this hair can be removed, a cure will speedily be effected. An application of black tea, or a bread poultice, to which a little olive oil has been added, will draw the inflammation from a sty.

The eyes and the mouth are the two features most easily improved. Penciling will give the eyes depth and expression, and a large mouth can be made considerably smaller by covering the corners with powder, and by emphasizing the curves of the lips with rouge. A face can be wonderfully improved by adding a line here and there, or by removing a shadow, with a dash of powder.

If the eyebrows are imperfect, a burnt match will supply deficiencies, and if skillfully used the application will not be perceptible. The mixture of rum and bitter apple, referred to in the article on "Hair," will promote the growth of the eyebrows apply with a chamois hair brush. Applications of common salt or warm vaseline, are also recommended.

Carefully cutting the ends of the eyelashes every five or six weeks, will promote their growth.

A dye for the eyebrows and lashes is prepared by slowly boiling an ounce of walnut bark in a pint of water for an hour. Add a lump of alum, the size of a thimble, to set the dye, and apply with a small hair pencil.

For inflammation of the skin under the eyes and inflamed eyelids, nothing can excel Mrs. Emms' Marvelone, which, however, should be carefully kept from the eye itself, as it will cause a smart- ing pain. To keep the inflamed skin cool during the day, use "Mrs. Emms' Self-supplying Powder Rags."

Chapter 4

ppoem|{smaller} Hair! 'tis the robe which curious nature weaves, To hang upon the head."—Decker.

ABUNDANT hair is an ornament to woman, but it is, also, a great care. There is no dust-catcher equal to it, as every floating particle lodges in the flowing tresses, over which the poets love to rave.

In its care, one of the first and principal requisites is to brush it; the second, to brush it, and the third, to brush it. If the hair is dull in color and wiry in texture, brush it. If it is losing the gloss it had when you were younger, brush it. If it looks old and sickly, brush it. Brush often and brush long, and the hair will become more soft and silky than the most persistent combing can ever make it.

A London physician says, "The chief requirement for the hair is cleanliness."

A society lady, now upon the stage, has her hair washed every day in extract of violets, and fanned until dry. It is said to resemble burnished gold and is greatly admired. But for most ladies a less expensive bath for the hair is desirable, and many effective ones are recommended. An excellent wash is made by beating the yolk of an egg into the froth of any pure soap, and adding half an ounce of spirits of rosemary, rinsing the hair afterward with cold water or bay rum. Or the beaten yolk of an egg added to a quart of boiling water, makes a good and harmless wash.

If the hair is naturally moist, dissolve a little borax and glycerine in the rinse water. If it is harsh and dry, use vaseline only.

If the hair is thin and threatens to fall out, or if the "parting," that

ppoem|{fine} Silver line, which from the brow to the crown, And in the middle, parts the braided hair, And serves to show how delicate a soil The golden harvest grows in,"

is becoming inconveniently wide, massage the scalp at night thoroughly, and change the location of the "parting." Treatment of this sort will not produce sudden results, but, if there be no disease of the scalp, marked improvement will be apparent after a few months of faithful effort.

Three or four times a year the hair should receive the attention of a good hair-dresser, who will give it just the treatment necessary for its healthy growth.

To promote the growth of the hair, the following recipe was published in a recent magazine, and has been used with great success. Put half an ounce of bitter apples (colocynth) into half a pint of the best Jamaica rum; let it remain for three days, shaking daily; strain, and apply to the roots of the hair, three times a week with a sponge mop.

Cutting off the ends of the hair once a month, is practiced by many, and with good results.

Burdock root tea is strongly recommended for falling hair. Boil one pound of burdock root in two quarts of water until the mixture is reduced to a pint, and add half an ounce of coarse salt.

The New York Medical Record advises, "persistent and thorough cleansing of the scalp," and says, "Young Americans, who do not wish to lose their hair before they are forty, must begin to look after their scalps before they are twenty."

The removal of dandruff should never be neglected, as its tendency is to cause baldness.

Frequent applications of heated vaseline, is the best remedy known for baldness. Apply at night, and thoroughly cleanse the head in the morning. Daily friction of the scalp with a coarse brush has, in some cases, proved sufficient for remedying this difficulty.

Cutting the hair of children is a mistake, as it stunts its growth and renders it harsh and wiry.

Curling the hair with irons, does not, of necessity, injure it, if the precaution is taken to wrap the lock in thin paper before applying the iron. If the hair be stubborn, it will better retain the curl if moistened with water in which a few drops of maple syrup have been placed.

Quince seed, gum tragacanth and Irish moss, are all excellent for keeping the hair in curl, but care must be taken that it be prepared of the proper consistency.

In washing the hair, always dry in the way it is to be combed or curled.

Switches and false fronts may be cleansed by dipping in diluted ammonia, which will impart life and freshness.

The hair of a young lady is said to have turned gray, in spots, by having lemon juice accidentally spilled upon it. As many are resorting to bleaching in order to obtain the "gray locks," which are, at present, considered so attractive even to a young face, this accident may furnish the clue to a harmless and inexpensive bleacher.

Peroxide of hydrogen will impart to the hair a golden hue. The hair must first be thoroughly washed and dried, and the peroxide rubbed into the roots with a sponge mop. If the hair is desired only a little lighter, the peroxide should be used sparingly—once in two months,—but if a "golden hue" is sought, it must be applied more frequently.

To bleach the hair light, wash, nightly, with water, into a quart of which, one tablespoonful of ammonia, one of washing soda and one of borax has been dissolved. To keep the hair light, wash once a week with the same mixture. Or wash once a fortnight with salts of tartar, five cents worth being dissolved in a pint of boiling water. After cooling, pour over the head and rub until it ceases to lather. Rinse first with hot, then with cold water and fan until dry.

To darken the hair, boil the parings of potatoes in a little water, strain, and when cold apply with a fine comb or a sponge, taking care not to touch the skin of the face or neck. Exposure to the sun will set the dye.

Hair powder is made from powdered starch sifted through muslin, and diamond powder is prepared from ground isinglass and, afterward, perfumed.

As for the arrangement of the hair, study it until a becoming style is obtained, and, through all changes of fashion, retain it, as the gradual fading of the countenance will be less noticeable, if the contour of the head and face remain unchanged.

Chapter 5

ppoem|{smaller} The turnpike road to people's hearts, I find, Lies through their mouths, or I mistake mankind."

THE proper care and preservation of the teeth is a subject demanding the attention of every thoughtful person, for upon them depend, largely, health, comfort and appearance. Nothing adds more to the beauty of a person than a handsome set of teeth, and nothing subtracts more than a mouthful of unclean, irregular and half decayed teeth.

Defective teeth, besides presenting an unsightly appearance, are a great detriment to health, as the inability to masticate properly the food, produces dyspepsia and indigestion; for

ppoem|{fine} Good digestion waits on appetite And health on both."

It is claimed that flouring mills are the source of great injury to the teeth of all who subsist largely upon their fine bolted flour.

The carbonates and the phosphates of lime—the bone producing ingredients—are removed in order to produce this fine white flour, which is proving a whitened sepulcher to so many teeth. Oat meal is one of the best foods for supplying the teeth with the requisite nutrition; and the Germans possess strong teeth, the result of the habitual use of rye bread.

Keeping the lips apart and breathing through the mouth instead of the nose is very injurious to the teeth and gums, as dirty and gritty particles are inhaled and settle upon them, causing decay.

Mr. George Catlin, the explorer, who spent many years in studying the habits of the American Indians, was so impressed by their habit of breathing through the nose—a habit early fostered by the Indian mothers—and the freedom of the Indians from lung and throat diseases, that he wrote a book upon the subject entitled, "The Breath of Life."

A predisposition to consumption and a habit of snoring, that he carried into the wilderness, were corrected, in a great measure, by adopting the practice of keeping the mouth closed, learned from his Indian friends.

He writes: "From observations I have made among the two classes of society, added to my own experience, I am compelled to believe, and feel authorized to assert, that a great portion of the diseases prematurely fatal to human life, as well as mental and physical deformities and destruction of the teeth, are caused by the abuse of the lungs, in the mal-respiration during sleep; and, also, that the pernicious habit, whether contracted in infancy and childhood, or in manhood, may generally be corrected by a steady and determined perseverance, based upon a conviction of its baneful effects."

For the preservation of the teeth, the first and principal requisite is cleanliness.

Powdered orris root and pulverized charcoal, mixed into a paste with white honey, makes an excellent dentrifice.

Powdered charcoal and lemon juice will also render the teeth white, but, in all cases, the charcoal must be thoroughly removed from the teeth.

Sage leaves are said to clean teeth beautifully, and precipitated chalk is highly recommended by some dentists.

Tincture of myrrh and a little green sage, mixed with two spoonsful of white honey, forms a tooth paste excellent for both teeth and gums.

Ordinary tooth-ache may be relieved by inserting in the tooth, cotton saturated with oil of cloves, turpentine or creosote.

The use of cachous of any kind is in bad taste. Licorice or orris root is the best sweetener of the breath, or the mouth may be rinsed occasionally in water containing a few drops of cologne.

Unpleasant breath arises from decayed teeth, disordered stomach or catarrhal affections, and, in all cases, the cause should be determined and the effect remedied.

Many of the ill-shaped mouths and crooked teeth, so frequently seen, are the result of the habit, so common in childhood, of sucking the fingers. A woman, whose beauty is much disfigured by coarse lips, attributes the blemish to the habit of putting her thumb in her mouth, while going to sleep. Another, whose lips protrude considerably, now censures her mother for allowing her to find consolation in her two forefingers. If persuasion will not correct this pernicious habit; more vigorous measures should be adopted and, if necessary, the hands should be tied together.

Another very unfortunate habit among children, is the continual biting of the lips. This results in a thickening of them, and in making them super-sensitive, and the habit should be speedily corrected.

Wooden tooth-picks are said to be injurious to the health, as small bits of the wood are often swallowed and lodge in the walls of the stomach, producing innumerable ills.

Chapter 6

ppoem|{smaller} The instrument of instruments, the hand, Courtesy's index, chamberlain to nature, The body's soldier; and mouth's caterer; Psyche's great secretary; the dumb's eloquence, The blind man's candle, and his forehead's buckler; The minister of wrath, and friendship's sign."—Lingua.

THAT the hand is indicative of noble birth, is an assertion that can scarcely be substanti- ated by facts, for many beautiful hands are seen among the lowly born, and many very ill-shaped ones among the aristocratic, "blue-blooded dames."

Whatever the shape of the hand, whiteness and softness are considered very desirable by all, and for securing these, several things are recommended, some of which are subjoined.

Great care must be exercised in the selection of soaps. Only those containing oil or fat should be used, and of those sparingly. Coarse soap renders the skin dry and rough, and should, in consequence, be avoided.

Indian meal and vinegar may be used, instead of soap, and will whiten the hands and prevent chapping. Oat meal, if used persistently, will answer the same purpose.