Guatimala or the United Provinces of Central America in 1827-8

Front matter

GUATIMALA,

OR, THE

UNITED PROVINCES OF

Part I, Chapter I: Voyage, -Sunset, -Night at Sea, -West India Islands, -Jamaica, -English Quay.

PART I.

JOURNEY FROM ENGLAND TO THE CITY OF NEW GUATIMALA BY THE BAY OF HONDURAS.

CHAPTER I.

Voyage to the Bay of Honduras,—Sun set,—Night at sea,—West India Islands,—Jamaica,—English Quay.

A favourable voyage across the Atlantic cannot of necessity be very rich in incident. Each succeeding day bears the features of its predecessor, and its events are only varied by perhaps a sail in the distance, or the appearance of some one of the various inhabitants of the deep. In the absence of all the artificial excitements of society every object acquires an interest, and the wonders of nature in one department at least are for a time rescued from the neglect to which they are generally condemned.

After losing sight of the shores of England, if the winds be favourable, the voyager soon finds himself rolling in the restless bay of Biscay. We entered it in the month of January. Its dark blue waves heaved heavily—a few wandering sea gulls roamed over the face of the deep, and the sun beamed upon the waters with a warmer and a brighter ray.

From hence to the Islands the traveller must content himself with the few objects of natural history, which present themselves. To watch the grampus, the porpoise, or perhaps the great white shark playing around the vessel and darting before its bow as if offering to guide its course through the trackless deep, are the daily amusements of every landsman in these seas; and with a few flocks of stormy petrels, a wandering albatross, or that most beautiful of all the finny tribe the dorado, relentlessly pursuing its unhappy victim the flying fish, they constitute almost the only novelties.

But at sea the every day occurrences of nature seem to exhibit themselves in new forms, and acquire a freshness which clothes them with a new interest. Oftentimes will the sun set with a peculiar splendour, pouring a flood of glory over the whole horizon, and as he dips beneath the waters the reflection of his beams clothe the western clouds in a thousand different hues, abundantly supplying to the fancy golden lakes and palaces adorned with all the magic tints of a fairy creation. Nor is night without its charms. A large vessel with all her sails set, gliding gently over the bosom of the ocean. Her canvass scarcely swelled by the light breeze, and her track illuminated by the faint phosphoric light of myriads of animalculæ, is a most imposing sight; while the awful stillness which prevails over the vast expanse of sea and sky, only broken by the light splash of the white billows against the sides of their disturber, seems sufficient to calm the most agitated spirit.

At length however new objects present themselves, and the cry of “Land” awakens curiosity. With us it announced Colon's Deseada or the desired island. The appearance of this little spot is rocky and uninviting, and it is almost uninhabited. The next morning at sunrise we were amongst the islands and close to Montserrat, one of the most beautiful of them; its western side declines gently towards the sea and is covered with fruitful plantations, while the cedar and palm shade and adorn its mountains. How lamentable that nine tenths of its inhabitants should he slaves.—From this point Antigua, Nevis, St. Kitts and Guadaloupe, are seen faintly exhibiting their outlines on the horizon, and the whole forms a striking and not uninteresting picture.

A few more days and we had passed the south side of the island of Jamaica. Its appearance from the sea is singularly romantic: blue mountains encircled by clouds and clothed with verdure to the very summits form the back ground, while richly cultivated sugar plantations interspersed with the cedar and cocoa nut, line the hills and spread along the shore. Nature here at once presents herself in her forms of wild sublimity and luxuriant beauty.

The third of March brought us in sight of English Quay, one of those beautiful little islands which adorn the entrance to the bay of Honduras; and by the afternoon of that day we had anchored in Belize roads.

Part I, Chapter II: Belize, -Population, -Government, -Commerce, -Soil, -lnsects, -Climate, Diseases, -Emigration.

CHAPTER II.

Belize,—Population,—Government,—Commerce,—Soil,—Insects,—Climate,—Diseases,—Emigration.

The view of the town from the roadstead is interesting, and some parts of it highly picturesque. Its principal street stretches along the shore for a considerable distance, and consists of tolerably good houses built of wood, the lower stories occupied as stores and the upper as dwellings: cocoa nut trees interspersed among the buildings relieve the prospect, and give to the whole the character of West Indian scenery. The bay derives its chief interest from the number of pleasure boats doreys and pit pans, passing and repassing on its still waters. The latter, a species of long narrow canoe propelled by paddles, are novel to an European eye.

This settlement contains between five and 6000 souls, consisting of about 2400 slaves, 1400 free negroes, 1000 coloured creoles, and from 3 to 400 whites.

The slaves are chiefly employed up the rivers in the cutting and trucking of mahogany, and are generally well treated. Their owners are probably afraid of harshness from the many opportunities the negroes have of escaping to the neighbouring Guatimalian territory and becoming free. The free negroes are only remarkable for their excessive indolence and pride. The moral effects of slavery are but too visible in their character. The coloured Creoles of the country, descendants of Europeans by African women, carry on mechanical trades, or keep small stores in the back streets. Many of these possess considerable property. The white population consists of merchants and their clerks, and of individuals employed in civil or military capacities by the governor. The internal regulations of the settlement are confided to the Superintendent appointed by his Britannic majesty and seven magistrates annually elected by the settlers. The market is generally ill supplied. The want of energy is so great that although every kind of fruit and vegetables would grow almost spontanteously, there is often a considerable scarcity. Turtle is procured in abundance, but like every thing else very dear.

The trade of the place is considerable; employing annually about 16000 tons of British shipping. The neighbouring Spanish provinces are supplied with British manufactures; and cedar, fustic, hides, indigo, logwood, cochineal, mahogany, sarsaparilla, tortoise shell and specie are exported: commerce is also carried on with Omoa, Truxillo, and the Golfo Dulce.

The soil is generally good, an abundance both of heat and moisture, favouring the putrefaction of a mass of organic substances, while it often proves the cause of disease, produces a stiff deep loam, capable of bringing to perfection all kinds of European vegetables, as well as the productions of the torrid zone. The difficulty of obtaining labourers is the only obstacle to the production of every thing calculated to administer to the comforts or luxuries of life. “The cactus, upon the leaf of which the cochineal insect subsists, grows spontaneously in the woods; the cotton tree, the indigo plant, the palma christi or castor oil plant, and the sugar cane all thrive on the soil, and might be cultivated advantageously.” But the free negro will not work. With a hook and line he can in half an hour provide sustenance for himself and family for the day, and with this he is content. No stimulus will arouse him. He will undertake no employment but at an exorbitant rate of wages, and even then he is careless about finishing what he commences.

Considerable quantities of land are covered with pine of a superior quality. Where these abound the soil is sandy and not so productive; it would, however, be well adapted to the cultivation of the coffee plant.

The neighbouring woods are rich in objects of natural history, and it is much to be regretted that a field which promises so much should so long have remained untrodden.

Belize, like many other settlements similarly situated, abounds with insects, which by their number and venomous properties, become a complete pest. Swarms, or rather myriads of ants, darken every household utensil, and leave no corner of any dwelling free from their intrusions; hundreds of cockroaches (the Blatia Americana) appear in the evening, in almost every apartment; the very chambers of the houses are not free from the unwelcome visits of lizards, centipedes, and scorpions, to say nothing of the mosquito, or of that most fruitful of all the insect tribe, the nigus. This last diminutive little worm exercises its malignant powers chiefly upon the black population, who are always without shoes or stockings; it enters the foot between the cutis and the cuticle, where it breeds with the greatest rapidity. The only remedy is to pick them out with a needle, and pour oil into the wound.

The climate is, on the whole, more favourable than that of the West India islands. The average heat is from 82° to 85° Fahrenheit, in the shade. Europeans chiefly suffer from remitting and intermittent fevers, caused probably by the numerous swamps which surround the settlement. The ravages of small pox are not great, as vaccination is now universally practised. In the year 1826, great numbers of children were carried off by the measles, but this disease has not since that time made its appearance. Hooping cough prevails much among the younger part of the community, and dysentery and rheumatism are not unfrequent among the full grown negroes; yet, on the whole, they may be esteemed healthy, and sometimes attain to a great age. The strong sea breeze, which blows freely nine months in the year, contributes mainly to the health of the inhabitants.

Still the heat is by far too great to make any part of this province desirable as a place for emigration; and had the memorable cacique of Poyais, McGregor, had any intention of colonizing, (which there is little reason to believe,) it is very problematical how far he could have succeeded. The miserable condition of the unhappy wretches who were deluded by his golden promises, is but too well known, and it is but justice to say, that they received, in the hour of their distress, every kindness from the settlers in Belize.

Part I, Chapter III: Black Population, -Character, -Amusements, -Morals, -State of Religion, -Inhabitants of the Mosquito Shore, -Coronation of their King, -Customs, &c.

CHAPTER III.

Black Population,—Character,—Amusements,—Morals,—State of Religion,—Inhabitants of the Mosquito Shore,—Coronation of their King,—Customs, &c.

That slavery must necessarily have a lowering and degrading influence on the character of the slave is self-evident: but it is requisite to live among such, in order to know and feel the extent of the degradation. The moral effects of this evil, not the growth of a day or a year, but of ages, are so deep, as at first sight, almost to seem indelible. In proportion as the avarice of man has tightened the chain around his victim, has its degrading and depressing influence infused itself into his principles and habits, withered all his energies, and impeded the growth of every thing noble and elevated in his character.

If any thing could lessen our sympathy in the unhappy fate of the negro, it would be to view his debasing character, apart from the causes which have induced it. Indolent and unprincipled, he will never work, excepting when under the eye of a superior. Fawning in the extreme, when in dread of punishment, he is tyrannical and overbearing if clothed for a moment in temporary power. His only wisdom is a species of low cunning. His only virtues belong to the brute creation,—an instinctive love of his offspring, and a species of attachment to the tyrant who rules him.

Nor is the freed African one degree raised in the scale of being. Under fewer restraints, his vices display themselves more disgustingly. Insolent and proud, indolent and a liar, he imitates only the sins of his superiors, and to the catalogue of his former crimes adds drunkenness and theft.

Such is the poor child of Africa, after centuries of subjection to the enlightened sons of Europe. The thought of what he might have been, had the same efforts been used to improve, which have been exercised to degrade, makes one shudder at the awful responsibility of those who have made him what he is.

The favourite amusement of the negroes here, as in other parts of the West Indies, is dancing. It surprises an European to observe the regularity with which these nightly entertainments are conducted; the graceful step of the dancers to the sound of the gumby, the expensive refreshments provided, and the air of display that pervades the whole performance. The same passion manifests itself at their funerals, which are conducted in as showy a style as possible. On these occasions they dress themselves in imitation of Europeans, and gratify their vanity by displaying all the finery they can raise. Their most joyous period is Christmas, when every slave claims a kind of temporary freedom for two or three weeks, and during this time, the settlement is in a state of riot. Dancing about the streets, night and day, is their chief employment till the accustomed period has elapsed; during this season, the militia, consisting of all the white inhabitants, is kept constantly under arms.

Crimes of a serious nature are of rare occurence. The prison, which is large, and has its cells commodious and airy, is very thinly tenanted. In the month of March 1827, it contained only six or seven prisoners, confined for petty thefts, or similar trifling offences, and it is by no means uncommon to see its doors open.

But although crimes which come under the cognizance of the law, are not frequent, the moral state of the population is nevertheless at the lowest ebb. With few exceptions, the institution of marriage is totally disregarded. The coloured population, considered by the whites as a degraded caste, feel themselves shut out of European Society, and consequently lose self respect. The females generally live in a state of concubinage with the whites, under the name of housekeepers, and are singularly faithful to their keepers. The negroes follow the example of their superiors, and prostitution is universal.

The lamentable consequences of such a state of things, must be visible to every one. Society instead of improving, degenerates, and an effectual bar is placed to the advancement of the coloured population. Alas, that the majority of our countrymen who visit these shores, should only come, like a moral pestilence, bringing with them the contagion of their example!

The provision for religious instruction is scanty. A church has been erected at an expense of £30,000 currency, and an incumbent appointed, whose salary is considerable. His talents are respectable; but he is unfortunately one of those polished preachers, who

“Never mention hell lo ears polite.”

The Baptist and Wesleyan missionary societies have each stations here. A large chapel has been erected by the former, but to very little purpose. About 30 or 40 negroes, and three or four white residents, attend the services, which are conducted precisely the same as in England. There is a Sunday school attached to this place, and the names of many children are on the books, but not more than from 10 to 20 attend on an average. This station has already cost the society several thousand pounds. The Wesleyan missionary has but just arrived, and at present has no congregation.

The diiiiculties attendant on imparting religious instruction to the negroes are very great. Their language is a mixture of creole French and broken English, and it is not easy to understand their meaning; while their mental indolence is so excessive, as to lead them freely to assent to every thing, whether understood or not.

The present condition of many of our missionary stations, proves how greatly their committees have erred in taking upon themselves the expense of permanent establishments, without first deputing some well qualified individual to visit the point they had fixed upon, and to make himself well acquainted with the moral character and peculiar circumstances, both of the native population and European residents. This species of information (as needful, under such circumstances, as a knowledge of its consumption is to a merchant who establishes a commercial house) would enable them not only to choose peculiar men for peculiar stations, but in some degree to judge of the prudence of the plans their agent may be pursuing.

Connected with the established church is a free school, conducted on Dr. Bell's system, in which the Scriptures are read, but it is in a wretched state. Not more than 50 attend, and these very irregularly, although 120 are stated as the number of scholars. There is also an auxiliary of the Bartlett's Buildings Society, but excepting in the compilation of an annual report, the labours of its committee are unheard of. No census has been taken of the number of individuals able to read or write, nor is it possible to say what number of copies of the Scriptures are in circulation, but there is every reason to suppose they are few.

Besides the negro and the creole, the Carib, the Indian, and the Mosquito man are frequently met with in Belize.

The Caribs, formerly inhabitants of the most easterly islands, are now found principally about Truxillo and Omoa, whither they were removed by the Spaniards. They are chiefly employed by the mahogany cutters up the rivers, and are little removed from barbarism.

The Indians mostly come from the interior, with letters and messages, which commissions they execute with the greatest fidelity.

The Mosquito men arrive in considerable numbers from the Mosquito Shore, which comprises the eastern part of the provinces of Honduras and Nicaragua. They possess great muscular strength, and a fine symmetry. Their tall and erect forms, little concealed by covering, their vacant countenances and long greasy hair, give them a wild and savage appearance, and strikingly portray the powerful barbarian.

These people now consider themselves under the protection of the British government, and some of their kings have been educated in Jamaica. On the accession of the last king to the throne he expressed a wish to be crowned at Belize, and orders were received by his Britannic majesty's superintendent to gratify his wish, and to defray all attendant expenses.

From a friend I have received some particulars of the ceremony. On the previous evening, cards of invitation were sent to the different merchants, requesting their attendance at the court house early in the morning. At this plane, the king, dressed in a British major's uniform, made his appearance; and his chiefs, similarly clothed, but with sailors' trowsers, were ranged around the room. A more motley group can scarcely be imagined. Here an epaulette decorated a herculean shoulder, tempting its dignified owner to view his less favoured neighbour with triumphant glances. There a wandering button displayed a greasy olive skin, under the uniform of a captain of infantry. On one side, a cautious noble might be seen, carefully braced up to the chin, like a modern dandy, defying the most penetrating eye to prove him shirtless; while the mathematical movements of a fourth, panting under such tight habiliments, expressed the fear and trembling with which he awaited some awful accident.

The order of the procession being arranged, the cavalcade moved towards the church; his Mosquito majesty on horseback, supported, on the right and left, by the two senior British officers in the settlement, and his chiefs following on foot, two by two. On its arrival, his majesty was placed in a chair, near the altar, and the English coronation service was read by the chaplain to the colony, who, on this occasion, performed the part of the archbishop of Canterbury. When he arrived at that part of the service, where it is written, “And all the people said, Let the king live for ever, long live the king, God save the king,” the vessels in the port, according to previous signal, fired salutes, and the chiefs, rising, cried out, Long live king Robert!

His majesty seemed chiefly occupied in admiring his finery, and, after the anointing, expressed his gratification, by repeatedly thrusting his hands through his thick bushy hair, and applying his fingers to his nose! in this expressive manner, indicating his delight at this part of the service. Before, however, the chiefs could swear allegiance to their monarch, it was necessary they should profess Christianity, and, accordingly, (with shame be it recorded,) they were baptized “in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost.” They displayed the most total ignorance of the meaning of the ceremony, and when asked to give their names, took the titles of lord Rodney, lord Nelson, or some other celebrated officer, and seemed grievously disappointed when told they could only be baptized by simple Christian names.

After this solemn mockery had been concluded, the whole assembly adjourned to a large school room, to eat the coronation dinner, where the usual healths were drank, and these poor creatures all intoxicated with rum! a suitable conclusion to a farce as blasphemous and wicked as ever disgraced a Christian country.

The inhabitants of the Mosquito shore, like most other savages, are distinguished for their apathy. Hunger alone compels them to seek food, which is easily provided in the woods or lakes. Careless about the dressing, they devour it voraciously, and then, stretching themselves at full length, sleep till the cravings of nature again arouse them. The paddle, the harpoon, and the canoe comprise all their wealth, and these supply all their necessities.

Enclosed by inaccessible mountains and morasses, and protected by a coast full of rocks and shoals, they are exposed to few dangers from without; a country abounding in game and provisions, spontaneously supplies their daily wants; a climate more salubrious than that of the West India islands, removes the necessity of clothing; while entire freedom from the destructive ravages of hurricanes and earthquakes, enables the slightest hut to afford them sufficient shelter. In such a situation every stimulus to exertion is removed, and, in this state, they may rather be said to vegetate than to live.

Several attempts have been made to introduce Christianity amongst them, by the Dominican monks from Guatimala, but hitherto without effect.

A Mr. Fleming and his wife left England in the year 1825, for this shore, under the direction of the Baptist missionary society, but, unhappily, they both died on their arrival at Belize.

The king has expressed his willingness to receive and protect any individual who would reside as a teacher amongst them.

Of their religious belief little is known, excepting that they acknowledge a good and a bad spirit. The latter, however, is the only object of worship, from dread of his anger; the good spirit they consider too merciful to injure them, and plead this as a sufficient reason for neglecting to adore him.

“At their funerals they are accustomed to inter, with the body of the deceased, his paddle and harpoon, supposing that he will need them to provide sustenance in another world.” These slight sketches comprise all the information I have been able to gain of the inhabitants of the Mosquito shore.

Such a people cannot be uninteresting to the Christian philanthropist. Nations, still darker, and more besotted, have been visited by the messengers of Jesus, and blessed with the tidings of a Saviour's love. May it not then be hoped, that the time is not far distant, when the echoes of these hills shall join in transmitting from land to land, the sacred song, “How beautiful upon the mountains are the feet of them that bring the glad tidings of salvation.”

Part I, Chapter IV: Voyage to Yzabal, -Quays, -Settlements, -Coast of Yucatan, -Rio Dulce, -Pirates, -Castillo del Golfo.

CHAPTER IV.

Voyage to Yzabal,—Quays,—Settlements,—Coast of Yucatan,—Rio Dulce,—Pirates,—Castillo del Golfo.

After spending two months very agreeably in Belize, we left it on Friday, the 4th of May, on board a schooner bound for the port of Yzabal.

The light winds which generally prevail at this season of the year, prevent a very rapid progress, but the traveller is abundantly repaid by the picturesque appearance of the numerous beautiful little quays, which surround the bay on every side. Some of these have not more than a mile in circumference, and are covered with bushes; on others are to be seen a few huts, and one of them (St. George's) has several good houses, and is the favourite resort of the inhabitants of Belize.

Very near to a cluster of these quays, lies a part of the Spanish main, called, by the English, “False Bite.” On the shore is a settlement of creoles, who chiefly employ themselves in raising stock and vegetables, which are sent to Belize. The land cultivated runs close along the shore, and is backed by the mountains. It is of excellent quality, and well watered. The settlers find it healthy, and complain only of the immense number of flies, especially of the cantharis, or Spanish fly, (the Lytta Vesicatoria of Linnæus,) great numbers of which abound here, and are considerably more annoying than the mosquito.

Leaving this, and passing Northern Standy Creek, a settlement of Caribs, and Mullands river, where there is another small settlement of creoles, we came to an anchor at a point called Manavique, by the Spaniards, or Three Points, by the English. Before us lay stretched a rich line of coast, belonging to the province of Yucatan, low, and thickly wooded to the shore. No vestiges of inhabitants were to be seen, excepting one or two straggling huts, probably belonging to fishermen. The woods abound in game of every kind, and are said to be infested both by tigers and serpents; some of the former are of considerable size. There is, however, little doubt but that this animal, which is called, by all who frequent these shores, the tiger, is in fact the jaguar, bearing a strong resemblance to the ounce, both in size, and in the form of the spots with which his skin is diversified. The beach swarms with the cayman, or alligator, generally small in size, although they are sometimes met with 18 or 20 feet long. These so nearly resemble the crocodile of the Nile, that they may be considered the same species, allowing for the trifling variation which difference of climate will produce. The number of sharks is also considerable.

Sailing from this point, the traveller soon comes in sight of the Rio Dulce. The entrance to this beautiful river, viewed from a distance, is enchanting, and takes a powerful hold upon the imagination. On either side are high mountains covered with the richest verdure and apparently leaning over as if to meet each other; while the peculiar bend which the river takes very near the entrance, throws forward the woods which skirt the side of the hills, and the whole forms an archway of consummate beauty. The effect is exquisite and surpasses description.

Between these mountains the river Hows in a serpentine direction for near twenty miles, and it is impossible for words to do justice to its scenery. As the vesel glides slowly and silently along, or is propelled by oars when the stream is contrary, the eye is regaled with all the varieties of foliage, which adorn the various trees and bushes, hanging over the sides of the mountains, and towering almost to the clouds; the ear receives the mingled notes of an infinite variety of birds, singing in security among crags and precipices where the foot of man has never entered to destroy or to molest; while the discordant cry of the various tribes of monkeys inhabiting the woods, and every instant playfully springing after each other from tree to tree, gives a diversity to the scene at once novel and delightful. In addition to this, the windings of the stream are so abrupt, and the effect so varied, that it is in fact a perpetually changing picture. Nature would appear on this spot to have lavished all her beauties, nor can the most imaginative mind conceive a scene of grester loveliness.

The abundance of her gifts, are however in a considerable degree counterbalanced by the intense heat of a tropical sun, which darts its rays with amazing force between these hills, oftentimes unrelieved by the least breath of air; while the heavy dews that fall during the night, together with the damps of the rainy season, render it a dangerous habitation for man.

About half way up, the river falls into a lake 10 miles in width, and surrounded by high mountains. On its opposite side commences the upper part of the Dulce, which presents a very different aspect to the lower. The land on either side is low and marshy, and the mountains fall into the distance.

After ascending a few miles further we anchored about 8 o’clock on a fine moonlight evening. A sultry stillness reigned on every side, disturbed only by the distant cries of the various animals in the woods—the solitary splash of some passing fish, or the gentle rippling of the stream against the sides of the vessel.

The conversation turned on the atrocities of the pirates, who infest these parts; and among other stories the history of the sacking and scuttling of the very vessel in which we then were, was related. It is a melancholy tale, but as the circumstances are of recent date, and the sufferers known, it is worth remembrance.

She was at that time manned by a captain and four men, and had on board a clerk of the house to which she belonged. They were returning from the Spanish coast to Belize, when they fell in with a schooner of similar size which they immediately recognized as belonging to the bay. This vessel it appears had been taken the day before by the pirates, who now attempted to board them. Deceived by her appearance they were totally unprepared for resistance. The wretches had no sooner placed their feet on her deck, than they proceeded to murder every soul on board, with the exception of one black man who jumped overboard, and although wounded, miraculously escaped by swimming. Having hung the body of the master at the yard arm, they first sacked and then scuttled the vessel, supposing she would sink; but they were too confident and careless, she drifted ashore and told her own tale—a few days after this the party landed, and soon excited suspicion by their lavish prodigality; they were arrested and sent to Jamaica for trial, and sufficient evidence being procured against them, were condemned and executed. So quickly does the hand of God sometimes take vengeance for blood.