Diary of A Tour in Greece, Turkey, Egypt, and The Holy Land

Volume 2

DIARY OF A TOUR IN GREECE, TURKEY, EGYPT, AND THE HOLY LAND.

BY THE

HON. MRS. G. L. DAWSON DAMER.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1841.

CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

Pilgrimage to Bethlehem—An Arab funeral—The Wilderness —The grotto—David's tomb—Prince Pückler Muskau —Jewish masonry—Pool of Bethesda—Armenian convent —Bazaar of Jerusalem—A disagreeable mistake 1 Village of Bethany—Tomb of Lazarus—View of the Dead Sea—Accounts of Acre—Termination of the Rhamazan— Our Doctor in great request—Want of medical attendance —The Burying Ground—Visit to Mount Calvary—Glorious sunset—Laziness of the Jews—Leave Jerusalem 21 Our deaf and dumb guide—The country about Jerusalem— Ramla—Arrival at the Latin convent—Illness of the superior—A sociable monk—Delightful garden—Esdoud —One of Mehemet Ali's messengers — Uncomfortable quarters, and troublesome visitors—Dummy's good qualities —Splendid appearance of the sky—Our lodgings at Gaza — The inspector of quarantine, and his adventures 43 A visit from the Governor of Gaza, and his suite—Our return visit—The Governor's stud—His harem—The gates of Gaza—Singular conveyance—Our camel—Travelling disasters —Uncomfortable lodgings, and unpleasant intelligence —At home in the desert 65 Appearance of the Desert—Fresh vegetables—An Arabic lesson—Our bivouac—Jewish feast of Tents—Camel's milk—Heat of the sun—A skirmish which is threatened with disagreeable consequences—Desert fare—Aerolites— Symptoms of discord 87 Fog and cold—The necessity of discipline—Marks of a wild animal—The Philistines and the Ishmaelites—Our employments —Meeting a caravan—Inconvenience of watering the camels—Beautiful situation of our encampment— A solitary robber—Wild partridges—We approach the Red Sea—Our impressions and reflections—Christmas-day in the Desert Journey to Suez—The British hotel—Mahomedan pilgrims —Egyptian plagues—An Arab marriage—The Consular agent — English news—The town of Suez—Hadjis— Tedious journey—Deep excavation—Hyenas 120 Journey to Cairo continued—English inn in the Desert— Divine worship—Pilgrims in want of water—Donkey chairs—First view of Cairo—Impressions on entering the city—Singular petrifactions—Mr. Waghorn—Mehemet Ali's resources — Cairo donkey-boys and donkeys — Egyptian mules—Mosque of the Sultan Hassan—The citadel—Massacre of the Mamelukes—Court of Yousouff —New mosque—New palace of the viceroy—Punishments — Beautiful garden—Egyptian necromancy — A wedding 135 Expedition to Boulac—Nile boats—First view of the Nile— Garden of Rhoda—Table d'hôte—Theatre—Visit to the tombs of the Caliphs—Mehemet Ali's sepulchre—Opening a mummy—Petrified forest—Protestant chapel at Cairo— Coptic language—Turkish repast—Almée dancing—Elegant ancient Egyptian ornament—The Mauristan—Harem of Halib Effendi—Circassian slave—Princess Nazly— European physicians at Cairo Cross the Nile—Giza—Ascent of a pyramid—Monument of Cheops—The king's chamber—English inscriptions—The tomb of Numbers—Visit to the Sphinxes—Sacrilegious fuel—Pyramids of Dashour—Bird mummy-pits—The Reis of Saqquarda—Strange contents of a packet from England 182 The site of Memphis—Statue of Sesostris—Real antiquities— Rich soil—The inhabitants—Vultures—Fresh Arrivals— Visit to a Turkish bath—The Princess's palace—Shami Bey's harem—The fair Saramé—Our entertainment— Feasting—Dancing and singing 194 Boulac—Joseph's well—Stores of grain—A rhinoceros—Embark on board a Nile boat—Discomforts of the voyage— A strange meeting—Arrival at the gates of Alexandria— Difficulties in getting admitted — Mehemet Ali — His palace 213 Pompey's pillar—The Pacha and the Sultan's portrait—A ball at Alexandria—Seyd Bey's palace—Singular bequest —Sir M. M—— and the Pacha—The garden of the palace —The fleet off Alexandria—Preparations for departure, and reflections on returning to England Effects of a double rainbow—Security from lightning in a steam-boat — Unfavourable weather — Fearful storm— Its effect on the passengers—Alarm—Weather improves —A general thanksgiving—Arrival at Malta—In quarantine 242 Thoughts on the Question of the East 257 The Talmud 289 Coming of the Messiah 291 Return of the Jews to the Holy Land 295

Chapter I

DIARY.

CHAPTER I.

Pilgrimage to Bethlehem—An Arab funeral—The Wilderness—The grotto—David's tomb—Prince Pückler Muskau—Jewish masonry—Pool of Bethesda—Armenian convent—Bazaar of Jerusalem —A disagreeable mistake.

DECEMBER 4TH.

—We were nearly deterred from our pilgrimage to Bethlehem, by the account of the dust and wind; but fearing that at this season the weather was not likely to improve, we set off in a perfect whirlwind, and the fine dust so blinded us, that Minney and I resigned ourselves, tête

2

baissée, to a little black slave's guidance. After an hour and a half's actually painful ride through a black valley, and over a cold mountain, we arrived at a monument distinguished as Rachel's tomb.

The spot is, I believe, correctly chosen as the place of her interment, but the building itself does not appear of an ancient construction. An Arab funeral was taking place close to it, attended by about fifty wild and starved-looking Arabs. The only ceremonial appeared to consist in each individual contributing a stone towards raising a mound, which had gained considerable elevation when we passed it a few hours afterwards, on our return from Bethlehem.

There was a wild, ferocious expression of countenance prevailing among these Arabs, that we had never before been so much struck by; the very whiteness of their teeth and shape of their mouths gave them a false and savage appearance. One would 3

most unwillingly have met them in a less frequented path.

We left Bethlehem on our left, for the purpose of visiting the Pools of Solomon, and passed a fountain which our attendants pointed out as the spot where the shepherds first heard “the tidings of great joy.” There was everything in the position and the neighbouring pasturage to favour the impression, and I look back to it with much more conviction than any I received subsequently, on being shewn the spot where the Saviour was born, and the magi adored.

The pools are situated in a valley, surrounded on all sides by a desolate rocky country. They are only three in number and of immense size, in perfect repair, and are undoubtedly the work of Solomon, for the conduit still exists, which to this day supplies the mosque of Omar with water. The pools are fed by considerable springs a few hundred yards from the upper one. 4

Commanding the pass is a Turkish castle, flanked by four towers for their protection. This precaution was necessary in a country which, besides the innumerable wars it has had to encounter with its foreign enemies, has been at all times torn by civil discord and petty warfare.

Within ten years Bethlehem has been at war with Jerusalem; hostilities, jealousies, and hatred lasted six years, and impeded all communications to such a degree that travellers were compelled to be protected by the Arabs of one town during their progress to the other, and were thus handed on in their journey through hostile bands. “The abomination of desolation” is depicted at every step.

On leaving these wells or pools for Bethlehem, the aqueduct runs along the path you ride on, and here and there the ruins of villages are perceived, and a few green patches, produced by the water escaping 5

from the reservoir and acting refreshingly upon the thirsty land. Bethlehem looks as you approach it on this side much more like a fortress than a convent. It is surrounded by a good deal of cultivation, and much remains of the planted terraces of olives and vineyards; the latter have in almost all instances a large round tower, from which there is a watch to protect them, and these at a distance look like Martello towers.

Bethlehem is on an acclivity, and the road very difficult and unsafe to surmount. Had the wind been less cutting, we should have made a still further détour to what is called the Desert of St. John; which I imagined must be the Wilderness, till reminded that it was beyond Jordan. It is by tradition the birth-place of St. John the Baptist; but this is not corroborated by the mention or remains of any considerable town in that always desert tract of country; and as all the great dignitaries of the Jewish 6

church were at that period priests of a city, Zachariah must have dwelt in one, and that of Hebron is the locality that more distinctly points itself out; and there a tree is shewn as that under which Abraham leant when he entertained the strangers (angels.)

The general desertion from this neighbourhood is very decided, and within a few years the increase of jackals, wild boars, &c. &c., so great, that they venture to the very precincts of Jerusalem. A Jew with whom Mr. Young lodged at Hebron, shewed him papers, from which he could trace his forefathers for six hundred years, and their property in Hebron; and he told Mr. Y. that in his grandfather's time between sixty and seventy villages had appertained to this district, and at this moment not more than fifty could be pointed out. But to return to our visiting Bethlehem.

The effect of approaching a fortification so little corresponded with the idea one had formed of the lowly state of Bethlehem, that 7

it required the very long time we were kept waiting for admittance to re-settle our impressions. We had passed through a fine court, supported by twenty-four pillars of (apparently) stained red lime-stone, which in this country is of so fine a grain as almost to approach the quality of marble. At a very low door a lay-brother knocked without the slightest result, the wind being so high that our tapping did not reach the Franciscan's ears. At last, some stones thrown at a small window produced more effect, and we were shewn into the refectory, and hospitably received by a Spanish monk, who seemed much disappointed at finding we neither intended dining nor lodging at the convent. Our progress in riding had been so tedious, that we hardly ventured to drink the excellent coffee brought us, for fear our time would be too short to visit the Grotto of the Nativity, and enable us to get back to Jerusalem before the gates were closed. 8

The grotto, like the holy sepulchre, is spoiled by a profusion of ornament; and the Latins, Greeks, and Armenians, here, as elsewhere, share in the possession of the sacred places: the Latins here, however, have the advantage in having possession of the place of nativity—the stable and the manger; the Greeks that of the manifestation; and a painted representation of the magi distinguishes the spot, with a star above. Silver lamps adorn the altars in great profusion and richness, and many are late presents of the Queen of the French and the Emperor of Russia.

The tombs of St. Jerome, St. Eusebius, and two female Roman saints, of the family of Spina Gracchi, occupy niches in this part of the building. Above the spot which the manger was supposed to occupy, the natural form of the rocks is seen, and encourages one to rely on the identity of ground selected by the piety of the Empress 9

Helena, whose memory must be revered, as she was the instrument of commemorating and preserving the sites of all the most sacred and interesting Christian associations; for if she were misled occasionally in her pious researches, yet she formed the most important and earliest link to the chain of local evidence, and her works throughout the Holy Land remain in a very general state of preservation.

The name of Bethlehem, or Ephrata, signifying House of Bread, was said to have been given first by Abraham; it is next distinguished as the birth-place of David, and where he tended the flocks of Jesse. Great tracts of pasturage can be traced in the immediate neighbourhood of Bethlehem; the valley adjoining is believed to be the scene of the story of Ruth.

After making extensive purchases in rosaries and carved mother-of-pearl, on which the great industry of the community 10

of Bethlehem is employed, we returned by a shorter road, skirting the hill that conducted to the Pool of Siloam; and the wind having abated, our ride was much less of a penance than that we had experienced from Jerusalem.

DECEMBER 5TH.

—Mr. and Mrs. Nicholaison and their little daughter paid us a visit. The latter, an intelligent girl of nine, gave Minney an excellent Arabic lesson of familiar phrases, which she has offered to follow up. We called on Mr. Young to look at a Tartahuan or Sad-hakief, a sort of double palanquin, or cages, to be placed on each side of a camel, for our approaching journey. I am already compassionating the poor animal that is to have Minney and myself inclosed in these wooden residences.

We then proceeded with Mr. Y. and his intelligent old Jewish dragoman, Joseph, to visit David's tomb, situated near the gate of the same name, and inclosed by a mosque. 11

With a permission from the governor, Christians were allowed to descend into the vaulted portion of the building; but now we were only permitted to look down from the middle of the flight of steps.

Prince Pückler Muskau, we were told, has been the cause of this exclusion, (as also in the instance of visiting the Mosque of Omar,) by making a forcible entrance without permission beyond where the general firman entitled him to go. The custode's opposition continuing, Prince Pückler drew his sword, and threatened to cut down any one who obstructed his passage. The great object of enforcing the privileges of the firman was to avoid paying the smallest fee; at Jaffa, when he had taken a bath, he presented the said firman as an excuse for not liquidating his debt of three piastres (1s. 3d. of our money). This seems to have incurred the wrath of the Jews, Christians, and Infidels. Consuls, governors, and guides, 12

have all some cause of complaint. I am curious to see his own version of his journeying and succès en Orient.

The strictest order has, since this esclandre, been given against any but Mussulmen being admitted into the tomb. Sir Moses Montefiore, the only exception, (whom the governor and Mr. Nicholaison accompanied,) remained for some time in prayer, reading some of the Psalms in Hebrew with his interpreter, Mr. Levi, who afterwards translated them into English for the benefit of Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore. After the tomb of the Prophet, that of David is the highest in veneration with the Mahometans.

After a very long and wet walk round the walls, which, from rain and the accumulation of rubbish, made our progress very difficult, we arrived at a most interesting spot, which I think has not been particularly remarked by travellers, and was 13

first pointed out by Mr. Y. to Sir Andrew Bernard. It is evidently the spring of a magnificent arch, which must have afforded the communication between the Mount Zion and Moriah, thus connecting the Temple with Mount Zion, and crossing the Valley commonly called that of the Cheesemongers.

The span of the arch must have been at least sixty feet, and have rivalled in beauty and magnificence the still existing and adjoining wall from which it springs. It was nearly one hundred feet high, above, perhaps, an equal depth of rubbish collected at its base: the first layer of stone consists of magnificent masses, hewn out with great care, and George thought as large as any Cyclopean remains he had seen at Mycene and the Grecian colonies in Italy, only that instead of rude blocks these were beautifully hewn and channelled in the form which is supposed to distinguish the 14

works of Solomon; over this again the wall is built in an equally regular manner, but with less solidity and grandeur, and resembling the construction of the Colosseum. This again is crowned by what reminds me of the rustic architecture to be seen in the substructure of some of the palaces at Florence.

The superior character of the Jewish masonry is very striking: some of the blocks were thirty feet by seven, perfectly unornamented but by a sharp indented line, looking as freshly cut as if they had just been laid, and this after nearly 3000 years! So striking is the fulfilment of the prophecies, “that the worst of heathen should possess the land; that the holy places should be defiled.” “I will pour down the stones thereof into the valley; and I will discover the foundations thereof.”

It is at this, the S. E. and most perfectly preserved angle of the foundations of the 15

Temple, that some of the most devout of the Jews assemble on Fridays after midday, when their Sabbath begins. They are to be seen kneeling on the original stone, with tears of penitence rolling down their cheeks, and in the posture of humiliation, and deprecating in scriptural language the wrath of the Almighty, and praying for their restoration, and a renewal of his mercies.

We then proceeded through rubbish and dirt of every kind, having unluckily chosen our road through the receptacle for dead horses, &c., for the purpose of seeing the Pool of Bethesda: it is close to St. Stephen's gate, (and spot of Lapidation), and is a large reservoir, but now without water. There is great doubt entertained of its identity; its vicinity to the Temple, and what is considered to have been the Sheep Market, affords the only ground of probability.

We next visited an Armenian convent, 16

built on the site of the house of Caiphas; a deserted Christian church is in this vicinity, built near the site of the house alleged to have been that of the birth-place of the Virgin. It is in such good preservation that one felt inclined to wish that the edifice had been obtained and converted into the Protestant church, as the spot of ground obtained for that purpose has little chance of answering the intention, owing to the absence of labourers; the foundation itself, begun to be dug a year ago, is not yet completed.

Our way home lay through the Via Dolorosa, and the alternate changes of the weather from rain to sunshine gave a very picturesque effect of shadow to the old vaulted passages and flights of steps in which Jerusalem abounds; the streets are dirty, dull, and ill-paved. Sometimes the archways would furnish beautiful studies for an artist. 17

The bazaars are narrow, bad, and ill-furnished: we could obtain neither cup, plate, nor dish of any kind to add to our canteen; and for knives, were obliged to substitute the common dagger of the country. No meat of any kind but mutton and goat's flesh, can be had; beef seems to be unknown, and vegetables so scarce that a cauliflower made quite an epoch in our kitchen, and for potatoes we substituted rice, which is the grand and indeed chief sustenance of the people. Although at only thirty miles from the sea-coast, fish is never brought to Jerusalem, and consequently indifferent poultry and mutton are the only food for European consumption, eggs being scarce, and butter nil. No pudding or pastry of any kind is to be thought of, and one is quite surprised how soon one becomes reconciled to so limited a bill of fare.

The clay vessels for drawing water are the 18

only ones used for drinking, and for eating purposes, a platter for the rice pillau, of which all the family partake. Coarse and ill-baked bread forms the sole nourishment of the majority of the Syrian and Arab population; and I believe a cup, glass, or plate, would not be met with in any Mahometan residence throughout the country, unless in that of some Turkish employé.

The town is full of beggars, cripples, and lepers, but the stirring population is vastly mixed, and interesting to behold: Arabs, Bedouins, armed to the teeth, and admirably mounted, are frequently met, and in the governor's yard we saw more than a hundred wild-looking men, who, we were told, served as a sort of irregular cavalry to the Pacha.

Sometimes the general stillness of the town is interrupted by a cavalier rushing by you at full speed, waving his djereed with great dexterity and grace, and answering 19

the description of the mode of attack of the infidels at the time of the Paladins.

Over St. Stephen's gate are some coarse ornaments, resembling lions and rosaces: as any resemblance of living things is forbidden to the Mahometans, may not these almost effaced ornaments be of the time of the crusades? We persuaded Mr. and Mrs. Young to come home with us, and try our convent fare, which really, under Denino's auspices, was improving daily; and Mrs. Y. having sent for some soup plates, afforded us a perfect fête.

The accessories of our convent furniture consisted of mattresses, six chairs, and two tables; but with our Smyrna purchases of carpets and counterpanes, and our dear Dover chairs, our rooms were, for Jerusalem, sumptuously furnished. Our canteen, containing only two tea-cups, obliges us to breakfast à trois reprises, and we cannot often change our plates; but constant exercise 20

and excitement make us overlook every deficiency, and we very much appreciate our portable comforts, although on this occasion we ran great risk of an original quality in our portable soup, as, among our medical provisions, we had brought a large lump of a preparation for blisters, and this was inclosed in tin, without a label.

Christine, in her anxiety to have soup at hand, for which she mistook this, transferred the stock from the panier de médecine, to that of the provision de bouche. I wish truth would allow me to go a little further into the detail of Denino seasoning our dreadful potage, but it was found out in time. Our doctor shuddered at the notion of the probable distressing results which would have attended our swallowing a spoonful of such a mixture, and took this opportunity of renewing his warnings, “Madame devoit éviter des condimens trop héroiques.” 21

Chapter II

CHAPTER II.

Village of Bethany—Tomb of Lazarus—View of the Dead Sea—Accounts of Acre—Termination of the Rhamazan—Our Doctor in great request— Want of medical attendance—The Burying Ground—Visit to Mount Calvary—Glorious sunset —Laziness of the Jews—Leave Jerusalem.

DECEMBER 6TH.

—Owing to its being the Mahometan sabbath, we could not set off on our ride to Bethany till after one, when the gates would be open. We crossed the Valley of Jehosaphat, and proceeded to Bethany, leaving Siloam on our right. In Scripture, the distance is said to be a sabbath's journey, (not quite two miles,) but 22

the road is so steep and rugged, our ride must have occupied one hour and a half.

This village, like all in the vicinity of Jerusalem, is in the most ruined and miserable state; groups of ill-clothed, or rather, hardly clothed, peasants, were lying in idleness among the ruins, and appearing indifferent to the spots they chose, as some, who might have selected a less bleak and exposed situation, were sitting on the roofs of their stone habitations, or holes cut in the rocks. In the centre of the village you are shewn the tomb of Lazarus, and you descend a flight of eighteen steps, to the place of his interment, which is capacious enough to allow your creeping in. This narrow descent does not answer to one's impression of the place from whence our Saviour called to Lazarus to come forth.

About a hundred yards further, a cavern in a rock presented itself, which answered much more to our preconceived ideas, as 23

one large stone might have closed it, and “have been rolled away,” and a space surrounds it, where “the much people who followed” might have stood spectators to the miracle. Our convent guide advised our going a little further, to shew us the stone upon which our Saviour was said to have been sitting when Mary conveyed to him the news of her brother's death.

The ruins of Bethphage are discernible, and we were surprised at our cicerone furnishing us with no tradition of the house of Martha and Mary, or that of Simon the leper, where our Saviour was anointed with spikenard.

In returning, by the Mount of Olives, we had again a favourable evening for the view of the Dead Sea, and the spot to which Israel was led by Joshua, and the general view was more distinct from this point than from the higher position. We could not pass the Chapel of the Ascension without again visiting it, as well as the Garden of 24

Gethsemane. Nothing appears to me so certain as the identity of this sacred spot, and of a portion of rock, now of a perfectly smooth, though not level, surface, upon which our Saviour is said to have knelt and fell; every portion of this garden (as it is called) so describes the awful and touching features of the scene. We succeeded in sawing off a large piece of wood from the oldest olive-tree; and I hope we escaped observation, in setting so bad an example for pious thefts.

It is only by repeatedly visiting the immediate country about Jerusalem that one becomes aware of the magnificent scale of its hills and valleys: however desolate, arid, and uncultivated, there is an air of majesty about them to which no description can do justice. The Valley of Judgment cannot bear its name, without inspiring almost thrilling feelings at its depth and vastness; the stony barrenness of the soil at this season meets with no relief, but we are told, 25

that the luxuriance and beauty of the spring flowers cause all this to disappear, and that the neighbourhood of Jerusalem becomes, in April and May, one vast and fragrant flower-garden.

On our return to the convent we found Joseph, the Consul's dragoman, who brought us very unfavourable accounts of the neighbourhood of Acre, and proved to us the impracticability of our going by Damascus; some English travellers, to whom the Governor of Acre did not feel justified in affording protection by land to Beyrout, having been obliged to hire a native vessel and proceed by sea; and we fear we must now turn our minds and our caravans in the direction of Gaza, on our way to Cairo. This change of plan disappoints us much as to our Balbec prospects; perhaps our arriving earlier in Egypt may enable us to realize our wish of visiting Thebes.

The old Jew had brought his wife, Sarah, 26

and his pretty little girl, Rachel, to see us: they only spoke Spanish, and were magnificently dressed; and the mother, in age and costume, might have afforded the model for the Rebecca of Ivanhoe. She is Joseph's fourth wife, and might be his great-granddaughter; but the family group would have been a beautiful one to draw, their dresses and cast of features were so exactly those chosen by the old masters in their representations of patriarchs and their families.

DECEMBER 7TH.

— We were disturbed from our sleep by a regular cannonade, and my first idea was, that Jerusalem was in a state of siege; but it turned out the very common-place event of some guns firing on the ushering in of the Beiram, and the rejoicing attending the termination of the Rhamazan. I partook of it, as it is quite distressing to have one's horse led by attenuated Arabs, and feel that all they are watching is the setting sun, at the very 27

moment we wish the light prolonged, so as not to be shut out of the gates.

We had been trying to engage an Arab, much recommended by Sir A. Bernard, whom Mr. Y. could not succeed in finding, as he was always from home; this morning, our pilgrim, or rather seller of rosaries, offered himself as a guide, which offer met with no encouragement. M. Chacaton hinted to us that he was a tailor by trade, who had undertaken to put his wardrobe in repair; our turbaned friend, however, insisted, in bad Italian, on his qualifications for a travelling servant, and at last we discovered that the same individual pursued these various avocations, and that the very man with whom we had for days been endeavouring to obtain an interview, was the same whom George and always been trying to eject from our convent quarters.

Just as I was setting off with our doctor, to see the fête of Beiram outside the walls, 28

he was summoned to the governor's, to attend one of the officers. He has visited at least forty patients a day since our arrival, and been consulted daily by more than double that number, and we are followed from our convent by the poor, asking to see our hakim. We do not cease being grateful that we took the resolution of bringing him with us, so great a comfort and relief has he proved in this wretched place, where, in a population of fifteen thousand, there has only been one medical attendant, a German convert, whom we found at the point of death, without any assistant to compound or to dispense the scanty stock of medicine he possessed.

The doctor says he has seen two people who have recovered from the plague; one an old man who is left paralytic, another a youth who is left dumb. He supposes that the virus of the disease entered the system, and thus left behind the proofs of its venom. 29

Many Jews have consulted him; and it is sad to know the vast proportion of sickness solely caused by famine and cold,—the general disease being low fever, which can only be relieved by better living. We made up small packets of quinine to distribute, which were eagerly accepted; and the doctor dispensed occasionally soup, bread, and biscuit, and some article of warm coarse clothing among his patients; these were more gratefully received than money, which forms a great contrast to our English poor.

One cannot help wishing to suggest that some of the funds subscribed for the Jewish Society, should be applied to establishing a physician, and a regular supply of medical assistance. Might it not be feasible, under proper and judicious management, to afford the poor of Jerusalem, on the plan practised in England, some relief by soup tickets, or rather bread tickets, in a country where the 30

grain is abundant, and the climate allows such food to be of sufficient nourishment to its inhabitants, many of whom I have actually seen during our rides eat grass and clover? The attention to their physical sufferings might lead to higher results, and put our missionaries, and those desirous of conveying religious instruction, in more direct and intimate communication with Jew and Gentile.