A Pilgrimage to my Motherland

Front matter

A Pilgrimage to My Motherland.

AN

ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY

Chapter 1

A Pilgrimage to My Motherland.

CHAPTER I.

LIVERPOOL TO LAGOS.

Bathurst—Sierra Leone—Malignant Fever—Cape Palmas—Cape Coast Castle—Acra, English and Dutch.

ON the 24th June, 1859, I departed from Liverpool on board the African S. S. "Ethiope," Capt. French. On the 2d of July we arrived at Funchal, Madeira; the 4th was spent at Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, four days after leaving which we came in sight of Cape Verde, Africa; the next day we anchored in the port of Bathurst on the Gambia. This little town is built on one of those great deposits of sand commonly found on the Deltas of large rivers. It is said to be surrounded by very unhealthy influences, although the American Consul, with whom I enjoyed an hour's conversation, assured me that he had not known a case of fever among the white inhabitants of the place for six months. The trade is chiefly in ground-nuts, (Arachis Hypogea.) Except perhaps Freetown, there is not a better looking place on the West Coast. The largest houses are built along the river-side, and present a handsome appearance, heightened by some fine large trees growing before them, and a fine avenue is left between the trees and houses. The streets are wide and regularly intersect at right angles, with sewers for draining; the town, which from being low would otherwise be swampy, is thus kept dry. The white inhabitants, including the officers of the garrison and the missionaries, comprise about thirty persons. There is another small town about one hundred and fifty miles up the Gambia, called Macarthy's Island. The settlements on this river are British, and are garrisoned by African soldiers from the W I. Regiment. The natives are chiefly Jolofs and Mandingas. Many of the latter, who are Mohammedans, read and write Arabic; both comprise some very active and successful traders.

On the 12th we were at anchor in the harbor of Freetown, Sierra Leone, lat. 8° 29' N., long. 13° 14' W., said to be the best harbor on the West Coast of Africa. Affairs were in a bad condition, the yellow fever, or as some say, a malignant form of bilious fever had appeared there, and swept off more than a third of the white inhabitants, while the small pox was busy among the natives. During the two days that the ship continued in the port I bad frequent opportunities of conversing with several of the natives, men of respectability, and in some instances of education; they complain bitterly of some of the Europeans, on account of their laxity of morals and unblushing disregard of the demands of decency. It is fortunate that the number of this class of persons is small compared with the number of high-minded, worthy men who are deservedly much esteemed.

On the l7th, Sunday, we arrived at Cape Palmas. Our stay there was short. I contrived to spend about three hours on shore, and was fortunate in meeting the Reverend Alex. Crummell, who conducted me to the two or three places of interest which could be visited in that time; amongst the rest he took me to the church in which he sometimes officiates. I was much gratified to witness more than one hundred natives, including an old chief, listening with deep attention to the word of God. I regret exceedingly not being able to accompany my Reverend friend to Mount Vaughn, his school and dwelling a little way from the town, where he is doing efficient service in training some promising native boys, a few of whom I met in his company. Here I received intelligence of the arrival of the barque "Mendi" at Monrovia, with my colleague Dr. Delany on board.

On the 19th July we arrived off Cape Coast Castle, situated in lat. 5° 6', N., long. 1° 5' W The town is not so low as either Bathurst or Lagos, but at the same time not more healthy than either. It was originally founded by the Portuguese; the British became its owners in 1672. The immediate site of the town wears a very rugged and barren aspect, but there are some beautiful green hills in the background where Indian corn and other products are cultivated. Gold dust is the principal article of export—the gold is chiefly brought from the Ashantee country in the interior, but the women procure small quantities after rain by washing the black sand scraped from the sea-beach and water-courses. The landing is bad, although the native canoe-men manage so well as seldom to wet their passengers. The inhabitants experience great want of water, relying for their supply on wells and pools which are frequently dry, and the latter sometimes muddy and unwholesome. The natives are very industrious, and manufacture tolerably fine articles of jewelry. The women both of this place and of Acra wear a strange-looking appendage to their dress immediately at the base of the lumbar region. Bustle would be hardly an appropriate term for it, as, although worn in about the same position, the appearance is different; and though used as a support for infants, which African women universally carry on their backs, it is evidently not intended solely for that purpose, as the women in other sections of Africa carry their children without such support, and many use it who have no children to carry. The women are generally very tastefully attired, displaying about their persons many trinkets of pure gold.

Early in the morning of the 20th we found ourselves anchored in the roads off Acra. This place is remarkable for being both British and Dutch; it is in fact simply two forts, one owned by each party, and the people's allegiance being thus divided, there is considerable confusion in collecting taxes, etc. There were some disturbances at the time of my visit, growing out of this cause.

Chapter 2

CHAPTER II

ARRIVAL AT LAGOS.

Bad bar—Landing mail under difficulties—Magnificent Spectacle— Dexterous Canoe-men—Offering to the Water-demon—Sharks— Mr. Turner—The Consulate, Lieut. Lodder—Disgusting Spectacle —Lagos—Alcoholic Stimulants and Fever—Emigrants—Cowries —King Docemo—Kosoko, ex-King—A Visit to the Palace—Unfortunate Adventure—The Lesson.

ON the 21st July, early in the afternoon, our ship anchored off Lagos.

Our arrival was at the most unpropitious season of the year, the bar being then and during all June, July, and August more dangerous than at any other time; we found it impossible to effect any communication except by signals. The next day some natives were persuaded to come off from the beach; the bar being still very unsafe, they carried off the mails secured in a cask, and I, leaving my packages in charge of a man who accompanied me from Manchester, ventured to go on shore in their boat, which, however, I would not have done had I been aware of the great risk I incurred.

Could one but have divested himself of the sense of danger, the scene was magnificent—the huge "swells" chasing each other, and our little bark now riding victoriously on the crest of one, then engulfed in a deep chasm between two others, rising high on both sides. It is perhaps impossible for men to evince more dexterity than these natives in the control of their canoes, especially on approaching the beach. There were twelve men paddling with two others, one steering and the other in the prow watching the approaching surges and directing accordingly. When near the beach, the last, who is their head man, with much ceremony pours a few drops of rum on the water, and a great deal more down his throat, after which he very vehemently harangues, first I suppose the demon of the water to whom the rum was offered, and then his crew, cheering them for their work. There was another native on the beach who gave directions of some sort to the steersman by strange gesticulations; his appearance, as he stood above a group of companions, himself mounted on an inverted surf-boat with his loose garments waving in the air, presented a subject which would have delighted an artist, and was indeed wildly picturesque. It is necessary to watch carefully the regular successive rise and fall of the waves in order to prevent them breaking over the boat. Within a few yards of the beach they stop, "backing water" and watching intently their leader, then at a signal from him, they dash on vigorously on the top of a wave. As soon as the canoe touches, simultaneously they are in the water, and seizing their frail craft, in an instant bear her high and dry on the beach.

The bar of Lagos is dangerous chiefly on account of the large number of sharks which are always ready to make a repast on the bodies of the unfortunate occupants of any boat capsizing there.

The difficulties of the bar are not, however, insuperable: small vessels can always easily sail over it into the fine bay within, where they can load or unload with little trouble and without risk. It is not so easy to go out again, however, for then it would be necessary to "beat" against the wind; but a small steamboat could at once take them out in tow with perfect safety. I was informed that slavers used always to enter the bay: they could of course afford to wait for a favorable wind with which to get out. On landing I was kindly received by a Mr. Turner, a re-captured slave, educated at Sierra Leone by the British, and now a respectable merchant at Lagos.

After partaking of some refreshments provided by my hospitable friend, I was conducted to the house of Lieut. Lodder, the acting Consul, to whom I brought a letter from Lord Malmesbury, British Minister for Foreign Affairs in the late Derby Administration. My reception was cordial, and I was afforded convenient accommodation at the Consulate all the time I continued at Lagos.

A disgusting spectacle presented itself at. the entrance of the river: on the right margin stood two bodies, transfixed by poles passing through their mouths. They were nearly dry, and strange to say were not disturbed by buzzards, although a great number of these birds—fortunately very abundant in Africa—were flying about them. They were two of five men who were executed for robbery: one of them was the son of a chief, and his connection with the party gave rise to a great "palaver," his friends contending that in consequence of his birth he should not suffer a malefactor's death, while others contended that his crime had degraded him to the position of other men, like whom he should answer for his offenses.

Lagos is a small island about six miles in circumference, located on the west coast of Africa, in the Bight of Benin, Gulf of Guinea, lat. 6° 24' N., long. 3° 22' E. Like Bathurst, on the Gambia, it is very low, and formed by an accumulation of sand. In some places lower than the surface of the river, it is very swampy from the infiltration of water. Like many

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localities on the coast of tropical countries, it is unhealthy. The prevailing disease is fever with chills: with common prudence, however, there is nothing to fear in this disease; but if the person suffering from it will blindly persist in the use of alcoholic stimulants, the consequence might be serious. I am sorry to say that Europeans and others, generally indulge far too freely in these beverages. In too many instances, I believe the climate is blamed for the evils thus created. After passing through what is called the acclimating process, which lasts during twelve or fifteen months, one is seldom troubled again with fever.

The population, of Lagos is estimated at about thirty thousand: there are about fifteen hundred emigrants from Sierra Leone, the Brazils and Cuba. All these are themselves native Africans, brought from the interior and sold on different parts of the coast. Those from Sierra Leone are recaptured, and the others redeemed slaves. Few are more than half civilized. The white inhabitants number about twenty-five, and include English, Germans, French, Italians, and Portuguese. A few very fine houses have been erected near the water-side, and others were being built at the time of our departure. They use as money small shells (Cyprœa Moneta) called cowries by the English, owu by the natives, this being also the general term for money. The value of the dollar and its fractions, as well as English currency, is well understood and appreciated: it is fast getting to be the same at Abbeokuta.

The present King of Lagos is called Docemo. He was placed in the position by the late Consul Campbell, after his brother Kosoko was deposed for warring against the English, and for his participation in the slave-trade. Kosoko has still a few adherents, particularly among the Europeans: only the guns of H. M. gun-boat "Brune," lying always in the river, preserve the present King his position. Kosoko lives not far from Lagos: he is said to be cruel and tyrannical, and still claims to be the legitimate King of the place.

On the morning of the first of August I made a visit to his Majesty King Docemo. Lieut. Lodder, the acting Consul, sent a messenger to his Majesty, informing him of the intended visit, and asking his permission, which being obtained, a party, consisting of the Commander of the "Brune," the Paymaster of H. M. S. S. "Medusa," the acting Consul and myself, proceeded. We were received in the reception-room, and some chairs, intended solely for such occasions, (for neither the King nor the members of his household sit on chairs,) were offered us. After waiting a few minutes, his Majesty, tastefully arrayed in a cloth of plaid velvet, and gold embroidered slippers, presented himself, and was introduced to his visitors respectively. The interview lasted about an hour. I told him briefly, through the interpreter, our object in visiting Africa, which seemed to give him much pleasure: so far as his dominions extended, he said, emigrants might select land suitable to their purpose, and he would gladly give it. I thanked him for his offer, and then spoke for a few minutes of the great results which must flow from the development of a country like his, so blessed with resources. In reference to an American emigrant who came with me from Manchester, he inquired whether he understood using oxen for agricultural purposes: when answered in the affirmative, he seemed rather incredulous. The other gentlemen had also business to transact with the King, which rendered our conversation rather brief.

When I had been a few days at Lagos, Mr. Williams, a somewhat intelligent native, interpreter to the Consul, invited me to see his farm on the mainland, a few miles across the river. Accompanied by two other persons, we left early in the morning before breakfast, expecting to return in two hours at most. Reaching the land, it was still necessary to journey a few miles to the farm: though yet early, it was warm, and the walk tiresome, so that I was obliged to rest myself on a stump while my companions proceeded to a little distance to plant some seed. Seeing a bird which I wanted to preserve, alight a few yards off, I tried to come within shot of it: before able to do so, it pursued its flight. I followed and eventually shot it, but in attempting to return I unfortunately took a direction leading away from my first position. I wandered about for more than two hours, shouting all the time at the top of my voice to attract attention, for my ammunition being in the possession of my companions, I could not fire my gun for that purpose. I soon found myself in the midst of an almost impenetrable jungle, the shrubbery and vines so thickly interlacing, that it was with the greatest difficulty I could break through: the ground too was swampy, and I sometimes sunk nearly to my knees. By this time my friends were as busy seeking me. I never felt more joyful than when I heard their voice in response to my own. From hunger, fatigue, heat of the sun, and excitement, I returned home about 2 P.M., with severe headache and fever. The next day I was worse, and continued ill for several days. The reader has here my first initiation into the African fever, and I might add that not a few may trace their first attack to similar imprudence. In such a climate a stranger should never leave his home before breakfast, nor undertake very vigorous exercise before he has passed the ordeal of acclimature.

Chapter 3

CHAPTER III

JOURNEY TO ABBEOKUTA.

The Crowthers—River Ogun—Ogboi Creek—Nymphæa—Rhizophora Mangle—Villages in the Swamp—Steam Navigation on the Ogun—Fish-Snares—Current—Rocky Bed—Crossing on Calabashes—"Agayen"—Subterranean Streams—Aro—Orange Cottage.

I REMAINED at Lagos nearly six weeks, and my colleague, Dr. Delany, not having arrived, I determined on at once setting out for Abbeokuta. I left on the 29th of August, accompanied by Messrs. Samuel and Josiah Crowther, sons of the worthy native missionary, the Rev. Samuel Crowther.

The journey from Lagos to Abbeokuta is usually made by canoes, up the river Ogun, the waters of which empty into the bay of Lagos. Somewhat west of its embouchure is the Ogboi creek or cut, communicating with the Ogun about ten or twelve miles from the bay. Canoe-men always prefer reaching the river by means of this cut, as the distance direct up the river is greater. There was abundance of the beautiful water-plant "Nymphæa," now in flower, in places where the current was gentle. The land on both sides the cut is low, swampy and thickly covered with mangrove, (Rhizophora Mangle.) Notwithstanding this, there are two villages in the midst of the swamps, the inhabitants of which enjoy good health, affording an example of a fact often noticed in the West-Indies and tropical America, that people might live with impunity in the midst of regions from which is constantly distilled the most dangerous miasma.

The Ogun is navigable for steam-vessels of not over five feet draft during seven or eight months of the year, namely, from about a fortnight after the first rainy season in May, to December, about a month after the cessation of the last rains. After this time the quantity of water diminishes rapidly, so that in February and March an infant could easily ford it at places where it was not long before as deep and wide as the Schuylkill at Philadelphia.

Vessels of the same draft can during the other four or five months always ascend as far as Gaun, about one third the distance. There being plenty of water at the time I ascended, the journey to Abbeokuta took five days. When the river is very high, or, as in the last of the dry season, has but little water, the journey takes from ten to fifteen days. In the former case it is necessary to proceed very slowly and cautiously along the margin of the water, where frequent obstructions are encountered, and in the latter, the water being in many places only a few inches deep, the canoes must often be unloaded and sometimes carried over places where they could not possibly float. At any time, however, except in the height of the rainy season when the roads are much flooded, the journey can be performed by land in two or three days. The water is of a whitish tinge, from holding in suspension argilaceous matter and minute fragments of the constituents of granite, particularly feldspar. There is abundance of fish, to catch which the natives attach snares to strong ropes made from the stems of a species of creeping palm, (Calamus,) passed across the river and fastened on both sides to trees. These ropes offer some impediments to navigation, frequently upsetting canoes, and causing the loss of their freight. The current, to within ten or fifteen miles of Lagos, is very strong, due doubtless to the regular but very marked elevation of the interior country. There is generally an annual overflow of its banks. Although far more water falls in the former rainy season in May, June and July, than during the latter in September, October and November, yet the river never overflows till in the latter season, since the former rains are eagerly absorbed by the soil, which with every thing else is then exceedingly dry from the prevalence of the harmattan winds immediately previous. Many large trees are then washed away and drifted into the channel, which are very troublesome to travellers on the river. There are extensive forests on the banks, from which fuel could be obtained in abundance, and which would furnish considerable freight in the form of timber to both Abbeokuta and Lagos. It offers also fine facilities in some places for water-power.

Above Abbeokuta, on account of the very rocky character of its bed, the Ogun is not navigable even for canoes. At places, however, where it intersects the roads, canoes could in the rainy season be used with advantage to convey goods and passengers across, but the natives use instead large calabashes, on which the passenger sits, the ferryman swimming and pushing his freight before him. They not only prefer the use of calabashes, but will have nothing whatever to do with canoes, and affect to despise those who use them. Not unfrequently I heard the term "agayen" reproachfully applied by the people of the interior towns to my interpreter and other persons from places on or near the sea-coast. The word simply means canoe-men.

I crossed the Ogun in three places above Abbeokuta; the first time between Oyo and Isehin, next between Biocu and Beracudu, and finally between the last place and Abbeokuta, distant respectively five days, two days, and two hours' journey from Abbeokuta, the day's journey being from twenty-five to thirty miles. At these places I found the bed of the river covered to such an extent with masses of granite rock, that it could be easily crossed dryshod by stepping from stone to stone, although fully twenty-five yards wide. I found also the water wider and deeper than it is from Abbeokuta to ten miles below. The reason of this perhaps is that the irregular rocky surface of its bed above Abbeokuta retards the progress of the water, and for the same reason it is not absorbed as it is below Abbeokuta, where the bed is sandy. We found all through the country brooks and rivulets apparently dry in some places, while at other points lower down the course, the water was gushing out clear and sweet. It is possible too to procure water by making slight excavations in the apparently dry sandy beds of what had been in the rainy season impassable rivers.

On the 4th September we arrived at Aro, where we found horses awaiting us, for the Crowthers had sent before to order them. Aro is the landing-place for the city of Abbeokuta in the rainy season; Agbamiya, a point lower down the river, being used in the dry season. It, the former is four miles below Ake, the business centre of the city, and about a mile and a half from the city gate. Above Aro the river is too rocky to permit canoes to ascend into the city. This place is doubtless destined to become of considerable importance; already all the merchants have depots there, and hereafter will also find it of advantage to make it their residence, when it is likely to be included in the city limits. In little more than an hour after we left Aro, we were comfortably domiciled at "Orange Cottage," the beautiful little dwelling of my kind companions, the Crowthers.

Chapter 4

CHAPTER IV

ABBEOKUTA.

Introduction to the "Alake"—Royal attire—Wives, over one hundred—Ogboni Elders—Native Game, Wari—Visit to the Chiefs.

ACTING-CONSUL Lieut. Lodder had furnished me with a letter of introduction to his Majesty Okukenu, Alake of Abbeokuta, which I was anxious to present. The Reverend Henry Townsend of the Church Missionary Society kindly accompanied me. My reception by the King was very cordial. I explained to him the object of my visit to the country, which he was pleased to hear. He observed that for people coming with such purposes, and for missionaries, he had great "sympathy," and would afford every encouragement; but that some of the people (emigrants from the Brazils, Cuba, and Sierra Leone) who were now coming into his dominion, especially traders, gave him much trouble. His body above the loins was nude; otherwise his attire consisted of a handsome velvet cap trimmed with gold, a costly necklace of coral, and a double strand of the same ornament about his loins, with a velvet cloth thrown gracefully about the rest of his person, under which he wore his shocoto, a sort of loose trowsers reaching only to the knees. One of his wives (he has more than a hundred) was seated on the same mat fanning him. He fondled on his knees an infant, and eight or ten of his other little children, all about the same age, were gamboling around him. On his right were seated several very old men dressed in white cloths, elders of the Ogboni council, with one or other of whom his majesty usually plays at the native game of wari, a description of which is given in another place. He offered me the only chair in his establishment. The Reverend Mr. Townsend, being an intimate acquaintance, sat on an end of his mat. A few slaves, by the by, his chief administrative officers, also sat near him. He presented me on my departure a head of cowries, worth nearly fifty cents. During the next few days I visited the principal chiefs, to explain the object of my visit and to make to each a small present. Though humble, these presents were well received and in every instance a return present of cola nuts, (cola sterculia acuminata,) or of cowries was given. The natives generally at first regarded me as a white man, until I informed them of my connection with the Negro. This announcement always gained me a warmer reception.

The reader here will permit me to digress to explain a matter respecting which there has hitherto been some misconception. It has been asserted that the native African does not manifest under any circumstance the same deference for colored men, as he does for white men; and so fully is this believed, particularly in the United States, that both my colleague Dr. Delany and myself were frequently cautioned respecting the danger to which we should be exposed in consequence of our complexion. It is indeed true that more respect has been accorded to white men, on account of their superior learning and intelligence, than to the generality of semi-civilized black men from the Brazils and other places, who now live in the Aku country; but it is a great mistake to think that the same is withheld from colored men similarly endowed with their white brethren. Let any disinterested person visiting Abbeokuta, place himself in a position to notice the manner in which such a person, for instance, as the Reverend Samuel Crowther, or even his son of the same name, each a pure Negro, is treated, and he would soon perceive the profound respect with which Africans treat those of their own race worthy of it. The white man who supposes himself respected in Africa, merely because he is white, is grievously mistaken. I have had opportunities to know, that if he should, presuming on his complexion, disregard propriety in his bearing towards the authorities, he would receive as severe rebuke as a similar offense would bring him in England. One of the chiefs of Abbeokuta, Atambala, was with us one day when a young missionary entered, and passed him with only a casual nod of the head. As soon as he was seated the haughty old chief arose and said, in his own tongue: "Young man, whenever any of my people, even the aged, approaches me, he prostrates himself with his face to the ground. I do not expect the same from you, or from civilized men, (oyibo,) nevertheless remember always that I shall demand all the respect due to a chief of Abbeokuta." A sufficient apology was given, and the matter ended, not without, it is hoped, teaching a salutary lesson.

The king of Abbeokuta, whose person is considered too sacred, for the popular gaze, is never permitted to leave the palace except on special occasions, and then he only goes into the open space without the palace-gates, one of his wives being in attendance to screen his face with a large fan. So with the king of Oyo, who once or twice only in the year exhibits himself to the public, decorated in his best robes and wearing a crown of coral. At these times any one can stare at his majesty with impunity. In Ilorin the king may not be seen, except as a mark of special favor, even by those to whom he affords the privilege of an audience. If the reader will permit the expression, Abbeokuta might be said to be in form an irregular circle. The circumference of its outer wall, for in some parts of the city there are three walls, is about twenty-three miles. It was originally formed of over one hundred townships, each independent and governed by its own chief. The people are of the Egba tribe of the Akus, sometimes incorrectly called Yorubas. About fifty years ago, wars with the surrounding tribes, particularly with the Yorubas, had disorganized their nation, the greatest number of their people being enslaved, and sent to the Brazils, Cuba, and other places; many of them were also recaptured by British cruisers and taken to Sierra Leone. A few flying before their relentless enemy, and wandering from place to place, at length found refuge beneath a shelf of rock now called "Olumo;" this hiding-place is said to have been before the den of a band of robbers. Advantage was taken of the security thus afforded, by others of the Egba tribe, and their number continued to increase until they felt strong enough to form a town and build a wall. In a short time that town, as before stated, contained the remnants of over one hundred townships, and became too powerful to be successfully assaulted by their enemies. The walls now include a number of huge hills of superior building granite, the quarrying of which will doubtless yield large profit to its inhabitants at no remote day.