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A Sense of Brutality

Carlos Alberto Sánchez · 2020

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Licence: CC BY-NC 4.0 · repository export licence (OAPEN) · Sánchez, Carlos Alberto (2020), A Sense of Brutality, Amherst College Press - licensed CC BY-NC 4.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/)

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About this book

Author
Carlos Alberto Sánchez
Language
English
Published
2020
Length
58,223 words · about 4 h 5 min
Sections
6 reader sections
Text
Digital text
Rights
CC BY-NC 4.0 · repository export licence (OAPEN)

 

Contents (6)

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Front matter

mA BRUTALITY

CARLOS ALBERTO SÁNCHEZ

A SENSE BRUTALITY

Introduction

On Culture and Narco-Culture On Violence

119 147

Introduction

| PHILOSOPHY AFTER NARCO-CULTURE

The task of future philosophy is to clarify mens ideas as to the social and moral strifes of their own day.

—John Dewey, Reconstruction in Philosophy

Philosophy exists wherever thought brings men to an awareness of their existence.

—Karl Jaspers, Philosophy and the World

“Trs a Crisis of Civilization in Mexico,’ with over 250,000 dead, 37,000 Missing.” In an echo of Latin Americans “Dirty Wars,” gang violence has fueled mounting disappearances, leaving mothers to search for their children’s corpses.

— Washington Post, November 14, 2018 his book deals with a phenomenon that may seem to fall out-

side the purview of philosophy, considered in its traditional sense as the human preoccupation with the eternal and the universal. The phenomenon in question is the unmitigated savagery related to narcotics trafficking—or, to put it in terms we will use here, the phenomenon that preoccupies us is narco-violence, or the violence of “narco-culture.”

Offered here are a series of philosophical reflections after narcoculture. By this, I mean that the philosophical reflections are motivated by the violence and death that characterize this form of life. With over one-quarter of a million narco-related deaths in Mexico alone since 2006, when the administration of then president Felipe Calderón declared “war against narcotrafficking,”’ narco-culture represents a historical event, a “crisis of civilization,” that demands a philosophical intervention. Similar to French philosophers who philosophized after Auschwitz, Mexican philosophers who philosophized after Tlatelolco, and American philosophers who philosophized after 9/11, these reflections assume that the occasion of 250,000 deaths well into the twenty-first century forces us to interrogate our most basic assumptions regarding human sociality.? In this tradition, what follows are meditations, reflections, or interrogations on various aspects of the historical event and the social fact of narco-culture that, although starting from the concreteness of that culture, force us to reconsider some of our most basic and entrenched philosophical concepts: culture, violence, brutality, and personhood.

As a historical event and a social fact, narco-culture and the violence that frames it reveal a human crisis—specifically, an “American” crisis. Its Americanness is given in its history. Particularly, the history of narcoculture is wrapped up with the history of America’s War on Drugs, which in the twentieth century lent a very unique profile to American social, cultural, and political identity. At the roots of narco-culture, for instance, we find the Harrison Narcotics Tax Act of 1914, which regulated the sale and distribution of opiates and coca products and continues to do so to this day; narco-culture’s contemporary influence we can likewise link to American (or US) intervention in the dismantling of the Colombian drug-trafficking infrastructure—namely, with the fall of Pablo Escobar in 1993. We can say that narco-culture is the dialectical residue of these policies and these events. More impactful to its continual survival and evolution is its reactionary relationship with US antidrug (and border) policy, a relationship that forces narco-culture to continuously change, morph, and evolve with every new regulation US lawmakers invent to curb or combat the sale, consumption, and trafficking of illegal or illicit drugs. As drug use and sales are further criminalized in the US, thereby pushing consumers and producers alike further and further past the periphery of legality, Mexican narco-culture flourishes and

1. Borbolla, “Estrategia fallida.” Unless otherwise noted, all translations are my own.

2. For instance, on philosophy after Auschwitz, we can count Arendt, Eichmann in Jerusalem; and Lyotard, Differend. After Tlatelolco, see Revueltas, México 68; and Monsiváis, Días de guardar. After 9/11, see Butler, Precarious Life; and Chomsky, 9-11.

becomes mainstream, turning “Mexico at the dawn of the twenty-first century into a bloodbath that has shocked the world.”?

If John Dewey is right and the task of philosophy today (Dewey’s “future philosophy” is, in my mind, “today’s philosophy”) is to “clarify” our ideas as to the “social and moral strifes of our day,” then thinking about the violence of narco-culture certainly qualifies as a topic that philosophers should worry about—especially “American” philosophers. After all, every month thousands are indiscriminately murdered on our continent as a result of the specific operations of the particular cultural complex that operates in our own day, and this, I contend, certainly counts as “social and moral strife.” I am motivated by Dewey in suggesting that a “crisis” of this nature should matter to philosophy. Some will object that Dewey’s proclamation was simply a result of his pragmatist commitments and that he meant something else by that statement. It could be that by “social and moral strifes” he meant social and moral disagreements in general—conceptual confusions that lead to social and moral issues (in general)—and not strife so specific that its actors could be pointed out and named. Perhaps, but this demand for a more radical and situated engagement with the world around us is emblematic of what we could call the radical branch of philosophy. Thus we find the call for such engagement in the eleventh thesis of Marx’s Theses on Feuerbach, where he tells us that “the philosophers have only interpreted the world in various ways [when] the point is to change it.”* We find it in José Ortega y Gasset, who, after proposing the principle that “I am myself and my circumstance,” or that my circumstances are intimately tied to my identity—that I am my circumstances and my circumstances are me—he immediately demands engagement, saying, “If I don’t save my circumstance, I dont save myself.”

In this tradition, I will endeavor to think about narco-culture and, so as to save myself, about violence and death. Methodologically, I will work on the fringes of phenomenological existentialism, and thus I consider this study to be, first and foremost, phenomenological and existential. As

3. Grillo, El Narco, p. 3. 4, Marx, Theses on Feuerbach, pp. 569-71. 5. Ortega y Gasset, Meditations on Quixote, p. 45.

such, my analyses will be directed to the given in the circumstance, to the phenomena, and from there extract meaning and essence. Karl Jaspers attests to the application of phenomenological philosophy to the types of urgent moral conflicts such as the one we are presently considering. One key passage tells us,

What task can a philosophizing human being set himself under this violent terrorism? . . . The fundamentally new fact is that today large numbers of men simply vanish and are never heard of again. The individual's impotence is complete. . . . For the wholly forsaken individual may cease to trust himself, may begin to doubt evident truth if he alone sees it and can no longer discuss it. The individual seems to be capable of taking utter absurdity for truth if an overpowering environment forces it upon him by its lasting influence. . . . [But], philosophy . . . should strengthen the powers of resistance to the cynical propaganda of a public life that has become monotonous, to the lure of yielding to the faith in absurdity which reaches so dreadful a climax in the confessions at show trials.°

The “violent terrorism” to which Jasper refers to here is the terrorism of his own times—for example, the terror of war, the terror of fascism, of Nazism, and so on. The sentiment, however, could be equally applied to the violent terrorism of narco-culture, where “men simply vanish and are never heard of again,” thrown into mass graves or dissolved in acid (as we will see below). Within the violent terrorism of narco-culture, moreover, the “individual’s impotence” is, in fact, absolute; individuals are swallowed up by the culture of violence itself, defined in their identity by a cultural ethos, by an ideology that is greater than themselves—so much so that they can no longer think beyond the immediacy of their station and believe themselves impotently tied to their circumstance. The role of philosophy appears in these conditions of terror, impotence, and absurdity as a breakthrough, as the ability or the possibility to break through the frameworks and propaganda and see the violence in its uniqueness as

6. Jaspers, Philosophy and World, p. 6.

a situational crisis that should be articulated so that it may be understood (i.e., with Ortega, we aim to “save the circumstances”).

The present introduction is divided into three sections. The first has sought to introduce the philosophical approach. The second section will aim to clarify the problem at hand while also preempting the objection that by calling narco-culture a brutal culture, I am convicting a set of people of barbarism. In the last section, I consider a dangerous misconception of the Mexican philosophy of death that suggests a symptomatic complacency toward the gratuitous murder and brutality of the systematically irrepressible violent demands of narco-culture—that is, I suggest that a Mexican philosophy of death can be thought to justify complacency toward killing, murder, and brutality. Between the second and third sections, I offer something of an interlude on a specific place that, considered abstractly, synthesizes the cultural nuances of narco-culture—namely, its rituals of death, its economy of excess, and the centrality of violence. The place is the narco-necropolis located on the outskirts of Culiacán in the Mexican state of Sinaloa: Jardines de Humaya.

| IMAGES OF UNSPEAKABLE VIOLENCE AND BARBARISM

The Spectacle of Death

Familiar scenes are broadcast on television or computer screens: dead bodies strewn across dirt roads, riddled with bullets to the head, chest, stomach, face; headless corpses left inside abandoned cars, heads atop the cars roof, in the trunk, or missing from the picture altogether; the noticeable profile of human bodies wrapped with black trash bags or blankets leaning lazily against walls or fences. In many cases, written confessions accompany these crimes, detailing the reasons for the executions, decapitations, or dismemberments and the person or groups responsible. These written confessions are known as narco-mantas (narco-banners), the writers are narcos, and they are commonplace in Mexican narco-culture. For curious Americans (those on the US side of the border) perusing the pages of Mexican newspapers or clicking web links dedicated to Mexico, the War on Drugs, or violence on CNN.com, Fox.com, or any other news outlet, the scenes are troubling reminders that this kind of gruesome and otherwise unthinkable and unspeakable violence remains a possibility outside conditions of war or the global politics of terror.

Although these scenes unfold in places and contexts that are usually unfamiliar to us, we are all witnesses. We have our technological advancements in news and social media to thank for that. Indeed, as a result of the media saturation that is indicative of our technological age, the horrible scenes and atrocities of narco-culture unfold as sidenotes on more relevant social and political happenings of our day; as mere sidenotes, however, they grab our attention, and we, the “innocent bystanders,” are drawn in, unable to look away. We become witnesses. As witnesses, the violence that we encounter itself demands our response—we are asked by the things themselves to respond somehow—specifically, to respond in understanding.

How do we respond in understanding to this kind of violence? After all, this is a violence of an everyday type that is much more horrific, cruel, and brutal than what anyone should be used to. In what follows, we will try to understand this violence philosophically, or better yet, phenomenologically (i.e., as it gives itself). To begin, consider the following headlines detailing everyday cartel or narco-violence. What these headlines and their corresponding events demonstrate is a violence that is both excessive and dehumanizing, one that seems, prima facie, to be beyond understanding:

1. “5 Decapitated, Hearts Left in Mouths of Severed Heads” (April 26, 2018). In this gruesome scene in the tourist mecca of Cancun, Quintana Roo, authorities found five headless corpses inside a car, their heads mounted on the car’s hood and roof. The mouths of the heads were sewn shut with steel wire. When opened, it was discovered that they were stuffed with the dead men’s hearts.’

2. “Chilling Scene of the Narco War as Two Dismembered Bodies Found in Mexico City” (June 18, 2018). Two dismembered bodies were found in plain sight of Mexico City morning traffic. According to authorities, the “reason” for the grisly murders had to do with a “settling of accounts” between cartels. What was unusual about this crime was not ¿hat it happened but where: Mexico City,

7. “Decapitan a 5.”

which up to recent times had thought itself immune to cartel violence. This is no longer the case. The first sentence of the news report is telling: “In a scene which is a bit unusual in Mexico City, but not in the rest of the country, two bodies, cut into pieces and dispersed across the street, were found on Sunday morning.”*

3. “The DEA Warns of a Circle of Hell in Mexico” (July 10, 2017). The bullet-ridden bodies of the Martinez children were found curled up next to the bodies of their parents in a small rented apartment. The reason for their untimely death seems to be that the father of the children was thought to be involved with a group of assassins who killed a rival cartel member. No proof of complicity or connection was established.’

4. “It Turned Out to Be a Grave” (August 8, 2018). Seven decomposed bodies were found in a narco-fosa (narco-grave) located in the backyard of a neighborhood home. All the victims had been shot in the head and buried together—men and women. Previously, in the same neighborhood, twenty-eight bodies had been exhumed from a different narco-grave. The identities of the victims remain unknown.”

There is a common denominator to these headlines and the stories they tell, one that when properly fleshed out can help us make sense of what are otherwise unintelligible acts of extreme barbarism. As phenomenological observers, we may ask, If we think of these and all possible stories that one could tell about narco-violence, what is it that remains unchanged about them all—their invariant kernel of truth? In a preliminary way, we can say that the invariant is the obvious fact that the violence manifested in these acts is always more than the violence required to bring about human death; the violence in these cases is excessive and, we also say, “unspeakable.” Words fail when a description is attempted. This excessiveness appears prima facie as the invariant kernel of narco-violence;

it is, we say preliminarily, its phenomenological core.

8. “Escalofriante escena de la guerra narco.” 9. “La DEA advierte del circulo del infierno.” 10. “Resultó ser fosa.”

What kind of violence is always more than violence? To think that it is simply violence underdetermines the acts in question. Violence, when it is simply violence, can be said to be formative in the constitution of subjectivity so that war, trauma, and other types of death struggles help make us who we are. In such a view (which I do not endorse), violence is creative and redeeming while also being that which serves as the horizon for the creation and redemption of persons. I take this view, proposed most notably by Jean-Paul Sartre in his reflections on revolutionary class struggle, to be too much of a romanticizing of the uses of violence by the oppressed." In the examples above, no one is redeemed, and no one is constituted (in fact, we can say all are deconstituted).

Perhaps these acts of excessive violence—a violence that is “too much” and “unimaginable” while not seeming to fit the concept in a straightforward way—are just another modality of the concept of violence and not something more. Slovenian philosopher Slavoj Zizek suggests three ways to think about violence: symbolic, subjective, and objective violence.” Symbolic violence is the violence of ideology, of metanarratives that oppress and victimize groups of people (the dominating narratives that sustain patriarchy and whiteness are symbolically violent, for example); subjective violence is the violence attributed to subjects, to psychopaths and resentful men; and objective violence is the violence that is, Zizek says, “systematic,” “inherent in the system,”* “uncanny,” and “anonymous” yet “determining”” of what happens in our everyday lives. It is the violence of capitalism, of the 1 percent over the 99 percent, of white privilege and masculinity'“—what Buffacchi calls “more deadly and destructive than direct violence.”” These three ways of conceptualizing violence seem to capture most of those realities that we think about when we think about violence: the violence of ideas, the violence of subjects, and the violence of institutions and systems.

11. Sartre, introduction to Fanon, Wretched of the Earth. 12. Zizek, On Violence.

17. Buffacchi, “Two Concepts of Violence,” p. 198.

In a certain sense, violence in the narco-context can be said to be objective in Zizek’s trichotomy. As the examples above show, this kind of violence is common; we will even say that it is “everyday” or “anonymous” and “normalized” or “inherent in the system.” However, what narco-violence also shows is an excess that can only be described as “unspeakable” or “unimaginable’—that, in those descriptions, shows itself to fall outside a space of justification or utility, that does not fit in the system or find reference in any other concept found within the known conceptual space used to describe human sociality. Often, as we will see (chapter 3), silence is the (morally problematic) cost of this lack of fit. Perhaps this excessiveness is that “uncanniness” of objective violence that Zizek points out—that is, the uncanny ability of violent excess to sink into the social fabric and become “anonymous” or “muted.”

Here we see that “something more” of the violence of narco-culture that in its excess stands outside the rational space of justification: it is seen as a fact of the world (we see five decapitated heads with their hearts in their mouths), but we are unable to find words that describe the fact of seeing it and, failing to account for the excessiveness of the act, allow it then to fade into the horizon of acceptable violence (the decapitations and dismemberments appear “normal” in the context of narco-illegality). This something more turns out to be the play of presence and absence, being and nonbeing that is more than subjective violence, more than symbolic violence, and more than objective violence; it thus overflows or cannot be fully captured by the concept of violence. I call this something more brutality, whose logic, I will show, denies itself as brutality in processes of dehumanization, objectification, and destruction of human life. The logic of brutality contributes to a perpetuation of itself (thus breeding more violence and death) when it says that the excess is not extraordinary but normal and acceptable in its own context—when it says that excessive violence against another person is not excessive because the other person is not a person but a body in a War on Drugs, a “narco,” a “criminal,” or, when dead, a statistic, a number, or simply “someone who should’ve known what they were getting into.” This person is thus totalized (objectified) in such a way that he can be killed and defiled because it is not irrational to kill or defile these types of people in the narco-context.

Hannah Arendt writes, “Violence is neither beastly nor irrational,”* by which she means that violence will always stand within a horizon of intelligibility where it will make sense; its rationality will be instrumental, always having a (rational) end. This is the case with brutality, which, as expressing that which cannot be said and demanding that it not be named in its being, appeals to a space of rational justification where the most “beastly” acts will be swallowed up by the normality of the culture itself. With this in mind, the goal should thus be to unmask brutality’s pretense to rationality and normality, to bring it to presence so as to name it, and to expose it and bring understanding to bear upon it. I am convinced that the cultural space of narco-culture is the only horizon of intelligibility where this may be accomplished.

Is a Culture of Brutality a Culture of Brutes?

It could be said that in making these claims, and even in undertaking this project, I am running the risk of characterizing persons who exist within the space of narco-culture, or in those sectors of the Mexican community where it is found, as savages or uncivilized brutes. It is thus imperative to upend this criticism and propose that the unmitigated brutality of narcoculture represents one aspect of civilized society—namely, the extreme limits of neoliberal capitalism and hyperconsumer culture (i.e., the culture of excess).

It is hard to disassociate brutality from cultural backwardness. Mexicans themselves have a hard time making this distinction. In the spring of 2017, a wave of cartel violence in the states of Veracruz and Guerrero left eighteen dead within a twenty-four-hour period, prompting the governor of Veracruz, Miguel Angel Yunes, to make the following declaration:

These are cowardly acts, filled with vileness, that give us some idea as to what we are facing. We are not facing human beings, we are facing beasts, cowards, villains, persons who are capable of murdering children with the aim of holding our people hostage.”

18. Arendt, On Violence, p. 63. 19. López, “Ola de violencia.”

The danger of such a characterization is that it places the blame on the irrational elements of the culture—on the psychopaths, the sick— while simultaneously distracting from the circumstances that allow and require such acts to take place. The beastly, vile, and cowardly acts are part of a system of allowances connected with an economy and a politics of excess.

An editorial in a Mexican journal attempted to sort out the “philosophy of the narco-trafficker,” and to their credit, the editors were able to reduce it into one dicho, or “saying,” pinpointing what this philosophy was in essence: “The philosophy [of narco-culture] was synthesized by a low-level provincial assassin in an interview after his capture: ‘It is better to live 5 years as a king, than 50 years as a fool.”” This philosophy, they continue, “palpitates in an entire culture,” and at its core are two maxims: “fast money with little effort” and “an asphyxiating materialist consumerism.” While this “philosophy” is more akin to a mantra and appears somewhat irrational, it is the most rational attitude one can have in a world that promotes such things as “fast money with little effort,” that values luxury and wealth, and that measures success in the registers of excess. However, this mantra is not only a reflection of the culture; it is also a result of it. One has to live this way; it is demanded by a system of allowances—namely, by culture itself.

So the violence announced in the headlines, the visceral brutality of the acts, and the culture that allows it—these are not irrational or barbaric but part of the rational system of capitalist consumption of which narco-trafficking, narco-war, and narco-violence are a part. Nonetheless, my claim that brutality is constitutive of narco-culture would suggest that narco-culture is the culture of brutes or savages; the claim would suggest that I am making a judgment about the primitiveness of an entire sector of the Mexican population—that is, that I am holding on to the colonial conception that sees non-Europeans as uncivilized. After all, brutality, since Aristotle, is the behavior of those who cannot control their impulses and live dangerous and short lives. In his Nicomachean Ethics, Aristotle himself warns us against the “brutish types” who are “rarely found” but who “surpass ordinary men in vice” (1145a30—32). Brutality, he writes, is

20. Quesada, “La filosofia del narcotraficante.”

a “moral state to be avoided” (114516), and he associated it with brutality with irrational and animallike barbarians—in his own time represented by uncultured non-Greek “foreigners” who posed a threat to the Greek polis and who thus existed outside the space of “Reason” (1145a30). The strangers were barbarian brutes; the Greeks were civilized. Thus the risk of referring to a particular cultural form as brutal is that brutality drags around its opposite, and so it appears that when we call those in the brutal, or alien, cultural form uncivilized, we are simultaneously legitimizing ourselves, albeit falsely, as civilized by default. In the present case, our association of brutality with the everydayness of narco-culture might suggest that narcos or those associated with the narco form of life are themselves irrational and animallike brutes that must be denied at all costs (even if, as Aristotle insists, they are “rarely found”) or that narco-culture, in being brutal or demanding brutality, is no culture at all but a primitive state of war of all against all—a natural state of savagery housing “brutish types.” This conception is maintained by Thomas Aquinas, who tells us that brutality is applied to those who bear a likeness to “wild beasts.”

Ultimately, the perception that brutality belongs to wild beasts is, of course, a key moment in the history of the West, particularly when it is deployed as a justification for colonialism, slavery, and cultural genocide. So I do not deny the association that exists when making the claim that brutality is a constituent moment in narco-culture, but I deny the truth of that association. Those involved in the murder of children or the dismemberment of human bodies are not animals; they are subjects who reason and engage in complicated existential negotiations, who participate in the machinations of modern hypercapitalism fully aware that they may succeed or die trying, and who, in their doings and commitments, create and re-create culture and history itself. I strongly believe that brutality is a function of our global culture and the economic and political scaffolding supporting most contemporary neoliberal states, and the particular form it takes in Mexico is merely its most obvious manifestation. To paraphrase the French philosopher Michel Henry, culture precedes barbarism:

21. Aquinas, Summa Theologica, pp. 1839-40.

Barbarism is not a beginning. It is always the second to a state of culture that necessarily precedes it, and it is only in relation to this prior culture that it can appear as an impoverishment and a degeneration.

Barbarism ... is a ruin, not a rudiment. Culture is thus always first.”

This suggests that narco-culture is culture and not a primitive state of nature, a “ruin,” or a “rudiment.” Hence the omnipresence of brutality demands that we ask how this condition exists as a possibility and a reality in a legitimate legal, social, and cultural context—namely, the Mexican state, a context that is otherwise perfectly aware of itself as being rational, modern, progressively civilized, and humanistic.

Ultimately, I am not saying that Mexicans are brutal; rather, I maintain that the cultural topography of narco-culture is brutal, that its geography is brutal, that its rites and rituals are brutal, and that the logic of brutality predominates its intersubjective negotiations, its economy, and its arts—that is, in general, that the ontology of narco-culture (the kinds and types of beings and events that define it) is an ontology of brutality.

| INTERLUDE: JARDINES DE HUMAYA

A central theme of the present book is that those scenes of violence illustrated above are not isolated events that manifest the extremities and excesses of culture; they are not nonsensical eruptions of barbarism and brutality exhibiting the dialectical nature of cultural progress. This book claims that such extreme violence constitutes narco-culture and thus that extreme violence can be constitutive of culture itself.

The objection may be raised that narco-culture is zot culture but a subor marginal culture. This objection, however, depends on an essentialist view of culture, one that thinks that there is only one kind of culture and that narco-culture is not it. My view is that no such homogenous or hegemonic culture exists. There are no subcultures; there are only different cultures. Even if we were to insist that, yes, there are subcultures (think skateboarding culture, surf culture, punk culture, etc.), narco-culture is

22. Henry, On Barbarism, p. 6.

not one of them; it is culture, pure and simple. One interesting phenomenon that makes this clear is the burial rites associated with the most notorious figures in narco-lore.

On a recent trip to Culiacán, Sinaloa, Mexico, I was granted access to the famed Jardines de Humaya. By all accounts, Jardines de Humaya is a cemetery. Established in 1969, it is located within the Culiacán city limits, and according to its website, it is an option for anyone looking for a final resting place. There are maps and price charts, with the costs associated with maintenance and upkeep exceeding the costs of living for the average Mexican.” This, however, is not an ordinary cemetery. The costs associated with it and the tradition that it announces indicate that this is not a “final resting place” for just anyone. It is reserved for narcos living (and dying) the narco-life; it is a narco-necropolis. As with all things narco, it is a cemetery of excess and extremes; it is a necropolis, a true city of the dead, with roads, Wi-Fi and cable access, functional plumbing, satellites, playgrounds, security cameras, and of course, tombs. The dead rule this city, and the only living things within its limits are the few construction workers building the next tomb, the trees that line the main avenues, and (on this day) my guide and me.

Jardines is a revered and almost holy place to the people of Sinaloa. In order to secure my visit as a foreigner, my host had to get “special” permission, and not from any government designee. (I’m not sure who he called or what kind of permission we received, but after a ten-minute conversation, I was allowed to freely roam the grounds.) This is a place that preserves the memory of cultural heroes, so the utmost respect is demanded before one enters and while one is there. There is a complete absence of graffiti on the walls, there is no garbage on the ground, there are a few dead or wilted flowers here and there that are sure to be replaced at any moment, and there are no wandering tourists snapping selfies. One goes quietly and reverently as if not wanting to disturb the inhabitants. In the dead quiet of the place, there are unannounced expectations about how to behave and how to revere—expectations that are alive, loud, and authoritative. There is a heavy threat of violence that descends with the warm, humid air. Disrespect is simply not allowed.

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