The traction engine...

Front matter

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Part Twelfth. — Description of Gasoline Traction Engines, . . . 235 Part Thirteenth. — The threshing machine, 246

Part Fourteenth. — How to run a threshing rig, 269

Index, 291

PEEFACE.

In placing this little book before the public the author wishes it understood that it is not his intention to produce a scientific work on engineering. Such a book would be valuable only to engineers of large stationary engines. In a nice engine room nice theories and scientific calculations are practicable. This book is intended for engineers of farm and traction engines — " rough and tumble engineers," who have everything in their favor to-day and to-morrow are in mud holes ; who, with the same engine, do eight horse w r ork one day and sixteen horse work next day ; who use well water to-day, creek water to-morrow, and water from some stagnant pool next day. Reader, the author has had all these experiences, and you will have them. But do n't get discouraged ; you can get through them to your entire satisfaction.

Do n't conclude that all you are to do is to read this book. It will not make an engineer out of you. But read it carefully, use good judgment and common sense, do as it tells you, and, my word for it, in one month you,

v vi Preface.

for all practical purposes, will be a better engineer than four-fifths of the so-called engineers to-day, who think what they do n't know would not make much of a book.

Do n't deceive yourself with the idea that what you get out of this will be merely " book learning." What is said in this will be plain, unvarnished, practical facts. It is not the author's intention to use any scientific terms, but plain, everyday field terms. There will be a number of things you will not find in this book. You will not learn how many pounds of coal it will require to evaporate so many pounds of water, or how many square feet of heating surface is required to produce a given horsepower. You will not find any geometrical figures made up of circles, curves, angles, letters, and figures in a vain effort to make you understand the principle of an eccentric. AVhile it is all very nice to know these things, it is not necessary, and the putting of them in this little work would defeat the very object for which it is intended. Be content with being a good, practical, everyday engineer, and all these things will come in time.

INTRODTTCTIOK

If you have not read the preface on the preceding pages, turn back and read it. You will see that we have stated there that we will use no scientific terms, but plain everyday talk. It is presumed by us that more young men wishing to become good engineers will read this little work than old engineers. We will, therefore, be all the more plain, and say as little as possible that will tend to confuse the learner, and what we do say will be said in the same language that we would use if we were in the field instructing you how to handle your engine. So if the more experienced engineer thinks we might have gone further in some certain points, he will please remember that by so doing we might confuse the less experienced, and thereby cover up the very point we tried to make. And yet it is not to be supposed that we will endeavor to make an engineer out of a man who never saw an engine. We will, however, insert a description of a traction engine and cuts of some of its parts ; not to teach you how to build an engine, but rather how viii Introduction.

to handle one after it is built — how to know when it is in proper shape and how to let it alone when it is in shape. We will suppose that you already know as much as an ordinary water boy ; and just here we will say that we have seen water haulers that were more capable of handling the engine for which they were hauling water than the engineer, and the engineer would not have made a good water boy, for the reason that he was lazy ; and we want the reader to stick a pin here, and if he has any symptoms of that complaint, do n't undertake to run an engine, for a lazy engineer will spoil a good engine, if by no other means than getting it in the habit of loafing.

Part First. General Description Of Trac- Tion Engines

If ) r ou are not already familiar with the principles and parts of such engines you can readily become so by studying figures 1, 2, 3, and 4. Figures 1 and 2 give views of the complete engine and boiler taken from opposite sides. Figure 3 gives the interior construction of a boiler, and figure 4 the section of an engine and accessories.

Look at figure 4. When the throttle-valve on the pipe which connects the boiler with the engine is opened, steam rushes into the valve-chest K. If the engine does not move, it is turned forward a little by hand, which will cause the valve V to move to the left. This motion uncovers the steam passage or port leading into the right-hand end of the cylinder, and the steam rushing into that end of the cylinder pushes the piston P over to the left. Any air or steam in the other end of the cylinder will be driven out through the port into the exhaust, and through the heater into the open air.

General Description of Traction Engine. 13

The piston will move to the left about one-quarter of its whole motion, the valve also moving in the same direction, but as the valve is operated by a stem driven by an eccentric wheel on the main shaft of the engine, it will, at about this time, commence to move toward the right, closing up the port until when the piston has reached about one-third the distance to the left the valve has closed up over the port and shut off any more steam from going into the right-hand end of the cylinder. The steam will, however, expand and continue to press on the piston, driving it over to the right until it reaches the end of its course. At this time the valve has moved so far to the right that it uncovers the port leading to the left end of the cylinder. Steam rushes in at this end and drives the piston back again to the right, the valve cutting off steam from this end at about one-third of its stroke.

The piston is connected by its rod to the crosshead C, and this crosshead, which moves to and fro under the action of the piston, is connected to the main crank-shaft by means of the connecting rod. By the well-known action of the crank and connecting rod the to-and-fro motion of the crosshead is changed into the rotary motion of the main shaft, which carries the driving wheels.

So much for the engine proper : now for its accessories. It is necessary to change direction or reverse a traction engine, and this is done by moving the reversing lever. In the middle notch the valve is in such a position relatively to the piston that no steam is admitted to the cylinder. Moving the lever to the left moves the eccentric which operates the valve-stem and moves the valve so that steam is admitted to one end of the cylinder, and this will cause the engine to go in one direction. Now, if we throw the reversing lever to the other end of its course, the valve will be moved over so that it admits steam now to the opposite end of the cylinder from which it did before, and the engine will turn in the other direction. In order to stop quickly a brake is provided, operated either by hand or foot lever.

When an engine is propelling itself along the road, the driving wheels turn, of course, much more slowly than the main shaft of the engine. The reduction in speed is obtained by gear wheels. If we want to quickly disconnect the slow-moving road driving wheels so that they do not turn even though the engine shaft is going at full speed, we move the friction clutch-lever F in the proper direction. Sometimes you may come to an obstacle in the road over which the engine refuses to go. You may, perhaps, get over it in this way : Throw the clutch-lever so as to disconnect the road wheels ; let the engine get up full speed and then throw the clutch-lever back so as to connect the road wheels.

General Description of Traction Engine. 15

111 figure 1, S is the wheel by which the machine is steered, W is a whistle, and T is the lever controlling the throttle ; S V is the safety-valve, and G is the governor.

The pump is shown in figure 4, and is operated directly from the crosshead. It takes water from the water-tank, and pumps it through coils of pipe in the heater to the boiler. The water is heated while passing through the heater, because the pipes through which it flows are surrounded by exhaust steam from the engine.

The general construction of a boiler is shown in figure 3. The flames and hot gases rise from the fuel in the grate and pass through the upper heating chamber, through the tubes, and into the stack. Water fills the cylinder to a level which must be kept above the crown sheet C S, and the heated water gives off steam which collects in the steam dome D, from which it is taken to the engine.

The compound, or two-cylinder, traction engine has come into the market within the last few years, and is the result of trying to secure for farm engines the advantages known and realized for many years by stationary and marine engines. In such engines the steam, after passing through the first or smaller cylinder and expanding somewhat, is exhausted into the second or larger cylinder and allowed to expand completely. Two cylinders are used because we can in this way get better economy in the use of high steam pressure than with the simple engine.

The gain in using high steam pressure can easily be shown :

One hundred pounds of coal will raise a certain quantity of water from 60 degrees into steam at 5 pounds pressure ; 102.9 pounds will raise it to 80 pounds ; 104.4 pounds will raise it to 160 pounds. That is, by burning 1 J pounds more coal than we used for 80 pounds, we can raise it to 160 pounds, and this steam at 160 pounds run into the engine would give a large increase in power over what we had at 80 pounds for a trifling increase in coal burned. These engines will furnish the same number of horse power with considerably less fuel than simple engines, from 15 to 30 per cent, less, but only when they are run at nearly full load all the time.

If they are to be used on such service as to be lightly loaded for a considerable part of the day, instead of saving coal, as compared with simple engines, they will waste it.

The increased danger from the use of high pressure steam — 150 pounds — is counterbalanced by making the boilers stronger than usual in the same proportion as the increase in pressure. Figure 5 shows a compound traction engine which, you will see, differs but little in general appearance from the simple engine.

Part Second. What To Do And What Not To Do

In order to get the learner started, it is reasonable to suppose that the engine he is to run is in good running order. It would not be fair to put the green boy on to an old dilapidated, worn-out engine, for he might have to learn too fast in order to get the engine to running in good shape. He might have to learn so fast that he would get the big head, or have no head at all, by the time he got through with it. And I do n't know but that a boy without a head is about as good as an engineer with a big head. We will, therefore, suppose that his engine is in good running order. By good running order we mean that it is all there and in its proper place, and that with from ten to twenty pounds of steam, the engine will start off at a good lively pace. And let us say here (remember that we are talking of the lone engine, no load considered) that if you are starting a new engine and it 2 17 starts off nice and easy with twenty pounds, you can make up your mind that you have an engine that is going to be nice to handle and give you but little, if any, trouble. But if it should require fifty or sixty pounds to start it, you want to keep your eyes open, something is tight ; but do n't take it to pieces. You might get more pieces than you would know what to do with. Oil the bearings freely and put your engine in motion, and run it carefully for a while and see if you do n't find something getting warm. If you do, stop and loosen up a very little and start it up again. If it still heats, loosen about the same as before, and you will find that it will soon be all right. But remember to loosen but very little at a time, for a box or journal will heat from being too loose as quickly as from being too tight, and you will make trouble for yourself, for, inexperienced as you are, you do n't know whether it is too loose or too tight, and if you have found a warm box, do n't let that box take all of your attention, but keep an eye on all other bearings. Remember that we are not threshing yet ; we just run the engine out of the shed (and for the sake of the engine and the young engineer we hope that it did not stand out all winter) and are getting in shape for a good fall's run. In the meantime, to find out if anything heats, you can try your pumps ; but to help you along we will suppose that your pump, or injector, as the case may be, works all right.

Now, suppose we go back where we started this new engine, that was slow to start with less than fifty pounds, and when it did start we watched it carefully and found after oiling thoroughly that nothing heated, as far as we could see. So we conclude that the trouble must be in the cylinder. Well, what next? Must we take off the cylinder head and look for the trouble ? Oh, no, not by any means. The trouble is not serious. The rings are a little tight, which is no serious fault. Keep them w r ell oiled, and in a day or two ten pounds will start the empty engine in good shape. If you are starting an engine that has been run^ the above instructions are not necessary, but if it is a new one, these precautions are not out of the way, and a great deal of the trouble caused in starting a new engine can be avoided if these precautions are observed.

It is not uncommon for a hot box to be caused from a coal cinder dropping in the box in shipment, and before starting a new engine clean out the boxes thoroughly, which can be done by taking off the caps, or top box, and wiping the journal clean with an oily rag or waste, and every engineer should supply himself with this very necessary article, especially if he is the kind of an engineer who intends to keep his engine clean.

The engine should be run slowly and carefully for a while, to give a chance to find out if anything is going to heat, before putting on any load.

Now, if your engine is all right, you can run the pressure up to the point of blowing off, which is from 100 to 110 pounds. Most new pop-valves, or safety-valves, are set at this pressure. I would advise you to fire to this point, to see that your safety is all right. It is not uncommon for a new pop to stick, and as the steam runs up it is well to try it by pulling the relief lever. If, on letting it go, it stops the escaping steam at once, it is all right. If, however, the steam continues to escape, the valve sticks in the chamber. Usually, a slight tap with a wrench or a hammer will stop it at once, but never get excited over escaping steam, and perhaps this is as good a place as any to say to you, do n't get excited over anything. So long as you have plenty of water, and know you have, there is no danger.

The young engineer will most likely wonder why we have not said something about the danger of explosions. We did not start out to write about explosions. That is just what we do n't want to have anything to do with. But, you say, is there no danger of a boiler explosion ? Yes ; but if you wish to explode your boiler you must treat it very differently from the way we advise. We have just stated that so long as you have plenty of water, and know you have, there is no danger. Well, how are you to know ? This is not a difficult thing to know, provided your boiler is fitted with the proper appliances, and all builders of any prominence, at this date, fit their boilers with from two to four try-cocks and a glass gauge. The boiler is tapped in from two to four places for the try-cocks, the location of the cocks ranging from a line on a level with the crown sheet, or top of fire-box, to eight inches above, depending somewhat on the amount of water space above the crown sheet, as this space differs very materially in different makes in the same sized boiler. The boiler is also tapped on or near the level of crown sheet, to receive the lower water glass cock and directly above this, for the top cock. The space between this shows the safe variation of the water. Do n't let the water get above the top of the glass, for if you are running your engine at hard work, you may knock out a cylinder head, and do n't let it get below the lower gauge, or you may get your own head knocked off.

The bottom of the glass gauge is just a little above the crown sheet of the fire-box. So long as this is covered with water it will not get too hot to do any hurt, but if there is n't water enough to cover it, the heat will twist it and cause an explosion, perhaps, unless it is provided with a fusible plug.

Now, the glass gauge is put on for your convenience, as you can determine the location of the water as correctly by this as if you were looking directly into the boiler, provided the glass gauge is in perfect order. But as there are a number of ways in which it may become disarranged^ or unreliable, we want to impress on your mind that you must not depend on it entirely. We will give these causes further on. You are not only provided with the glass gauge, but with the try-cocks. These cocks are located so that the upper and lower cock is on, or near, the level with the lower and upper end of glass gauge. With another try-cock about on a level with the center of glass gauge, or, in other words, if the water stands about the center of glass, it will at the same time show at the cock when tried. Now, we will suppose that your glass gauge is in perfect condition and the water shows two inches in the glass. You now try the lower cock, and find plenty of water ; you will then try the next upper cock and get only steam. Now, as the lower cock is located below the water line, shown by the glass, and the second cock above this line, you not only see the water line by the glass, but you have a way of proving it. Should the water be within two inches of the top of the glass, you again have the line between two cocks and can also prove it. Now you can know for a certainty where the water stands in the boiler, and we repeat when you know this, there is nothing to fear from this source ; and as a properly constructed boiler never explodes, except from low water or high pressure, and as we have already cautioned you about your safety-valve, you have nothing

What to Bo and What Not to Do. 25

to fear, provided you have made up your mind to follow these instructions, and unless you can do this let your job to one who can. Well, you say you will do as we have directed ; we will then go back to the gauges. Do n't depend on your glass gauge alone, for several reasons. One is, if you depend on the glass entirely, the try-cocks become limed up and are useless, solely because they are not used.

Some time ago I was standing near a traction engine when the engineer (I guess I must call him that) asked me to stay with the engine a few minutes. I consented. After he had been gone a short time I thought I would look after the water. It showed about two inches in the glass, which was all right, but as I have advised you, I proposed to know that it was there, and thought I would prove it by trying the cocks. But on attempting to try them I found them limed up solid. Had I been hunting for an engineer, that fellow would not have secured the job. Suppose that before I had looked at the glass it had bursted, which it is liable to do any time. I w r ould have shut the gauge-cocks off as soon as possible, to stop the* escaping steam and water. Then I would have tried the cocks to find where the water was in the boiler. I would have been in a bad boat, not knowing w T hether I had water or not. Shortly after this the fellow that was helping the engine to run (I guess I will put it that w T ay)

The Traction Engine.

Water Gauges

Fig. 6.

Fig. 8.— Try-cock.

came back. I asked him what the trouble was with his gauge-cocks. He said, " Oh, I do n 't bother with them." I asked him what he would do if his glass should break. His reply was, " Oh, that won't break." Now, just such an engineer as that spoils many a good engine, and then blames it on the manufacturer. Now, this is one good' reason why you are not to depend entirely on the glass gauge. Another equally as good reason is that your glass may fool you, for you see the try-cocks may lime up ; so may your glass gauge-cocks, but you say you use them. You use them by looking at them. You are not letting the steam or water escape from them every few minutes, and thereby cutting the lime away, as is the case with try-cocks. Now, you want to know how you are to keep them open. Well, that is easy. Shut off the top gauge and open the drain-cock at bottom of gauge-cock. This allows the water and steam to flow out of the lower cock ; then, after allowing it to escape a few seconds, shut off the lower gauge and open the top one, and allow it to blow about the same time ; then shut the drain-cock and open both gauge-cocks, and you will see the water seek its level, and you can rest assured that it is reliable. This little operation I want you to perform every day you run an engine. It will prevent you from thinking you have water. I do n't want you to think so ; I intend that you shall know it. You remember we said, if you know you

Wliat to Do and What Not to Do. 29

have water you are safe, and every one around you will be safe.

Should the gauge-glass break, shut both the gauge-glass valves, and loosen up the lock nuts at top and bottom of the glass ; take out the old and put in the new glass, tightening up the lock nuts ; then open the valves and test by the try-cocks whether the glass gauge sIioavs the right height of water.

Now, here is something I want you to remember. Never be guilty of going to your engine in the morning and building a fire simply because you see water in the glass. We could give you the names of a score of men who have ruined their engines by doing this very thing. You, as a matter of course, want to know why this can do any harm. It could not, if the water in the boiler was as high as it shows in the glass, but it is not always there, and that is what causes the trouble. Well, if it showed in the glass, why was it not there ? You probably have lived long enough in the world to know that there are a great many boys in it, and it seems to be second nature with them to turn everything on an engine that it is possible to turn. All glass gauge-cocks are fitted with a small hand wheel. The small boy sees this about the first thing and he begins to turn it, and he generally turns as long as it turns easy, and when it stops he will try the other one, and when it stops he has done the mischief, by shutting the water off from the boiler, and all the water that was in the glass remains there. You may have stopped work with an ordinary gauge of water, and, as water expands when heated, it also contracts when it becomes cool. Water will also simmer away, if there is any fire left in the fire-box, especially if there should be any vent or leak in the boiler, and the water may by morning have dropped to as much as an inch below the crown sheet. You approach the engine and, on looking at the glass, see two or three inches of water.

Should you start a fire without investigating any further, you will have done the damage, while if you try the gauge-cocks first you will discover that some one has tampered with the engine. The boy did the mischief through no malicious motives, but we regret to say that there are people in this world who are mean enough to do this very thing, and not stop at what the boy did unconsciously, but, after shutting the water in the gauge for the purpose of deceiving you, they then go to the blow-off cock and let enough water out to insure a dry crown sheet. While I detest a human being guilty of such a dastardly trick ; I have no sympathy to waste on an engineer who can be caught in this way. So, if by this time you have made up your mind never to build a fire until you know where the water is, you will never be fooled and will never have to explain an accident by saying, " I thought I had plenty of water." A good authority on steam boilers says : "All explosions come either from poor material, poor workmanship, too high pressure, or a too low gauge of water." Now, to protect yourself from the first two causes buy your engine from some factory having a reputation for doing good work and for using good material. The last two causes depend very much on yourself, if you are running your own engine. If not, then see that you have an engineer who knows when his safety-valve is in good shape, and who knows when he has plenty of water, or knows enough to pull his fire when, for some reason, the water should become low. If poor material and poor workmanship were unknown, and carelessness in engineers were unknown, such a thing as a boiler explosion would also be unknown.

You no doubt have made up your mind by this time that I have no use for a careless engineer, and let me add right here that if you are inclined to be careless or forgetful (they both mean about the same thing), you are a mighty poor risk for an insurance company ; but, on the other hand, if you are careful and attentive to business, you are as safe a risk as any one, and your success and the durability and life of your engine depend entirely upon you, and it is not worth your while to try to shift the responsibility of an accident to your engine on to some one else.