Dragoon campaigns to the Rocky Mountains : being a history of the enlistment, organization, and first campaigns of the regiment of United States Dragoons : together with incidents of a soldier's life, and sketches of scenery and Indian character

Front matter

I

^ff

TO THE

Preface

live, was simply that the letters themselves would be better calculated to carry with them the impress of the truth, than if the story had been told in the smoother style of romantic narrative. A journal is too prolix, too digressive, too much mixed up with details containing no matter of interest whatever, except to the writer himself; therefore, except in some few instances, the attempt to give the details of a journey in such a form has been unfortunate. There are many things of which he would speak in this preface in relation to his motives, both for having at all published a book, and also for having endeavored to compress the matter of which it is composed into a single volume. In the first place, when he left the army, he promised his late comrades that he would, as far as in him lay, advocate their cause, and lay some of the grievances and oppressions under which they suffer before the public; and in the following pages he has occasionally touched upon this theme, and although in some instances it may be imagined that he has written under the influence of ex-

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cited feelings, yet he declares that he has written coolly and dispassionately, and exhibited the grievances of which he speaks, in by no means as bad a light as truth might allow. Had he been so disposed, he might have entered into detail of individual circumstances, and have related many a wrong that he has passed over as recorded in his private journal ; and on account of the personal respect that he bears towards those concerned, has entirely omitted them. He very much regrets that he has been unable to procure a copy of an article that appeared in a St. Louis paper some two years since, relative to the treatment of the dragoons by their officers, which he believes was signed " Vindex " — which article caused a great excitement at Jefferson Barracks, and, upon suspicion of having written which, a certain dragoon was compelled to undergo a trial before a court-martial, but was acquitted for want of evidence. The article in question was well written, and in all respects true — and he should have incorporated it into the body of this work, had he been able

PREFACE.

to procure it, for the purpose of substantiating his own account.

It will be perceived, that in the following pages are huddled together promiscuously, statistics, anecdotes, narratives, and reflections, the one as an antidote to the other. The author having indulged the hope that he might, by interspersing through his work a spice of merriment, relieve it from the perhaps tedious monotony of its necessary details.

The more immediate intention of the author was to throw together the prominent incidents of the Dragoon Campaigns, that each man engaged in the expedition might preserve the records of the scenes and actions connected therewith — and in after times, when he shall look back upon these scenes, that he may the more vividly bring back the recollection of them — and perchance when his infant boy shall lisp his predilection for a soldier's life, he may chide him to beware how he barters away his liberty to follow after the phantom of glory and renown.

To avoid the imputation of plagiarism, the

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author would here take occasion to acknowledge all the different means made use of in the following compilation. In the first place, by far the greater portion of the work is the result of his own experience and observation during his term of service in the regiment of dragoons. The latter chapters are compiled from the private letters that he has constantly received since his return from his old companions, and to bring these letters more effectually into requisition, he has had recourse to the journal of Lieutenant Wheelock of dragoons, which being an official document, could be relied on as a correct detail of the circumstances attending the journey from Fort Gibson to the mountains. To the journal of the expedition performed in the years 1819-20, by the party under command of Major Long, the author of these pages has also had recourse — all the other extracts, and, indeed, these now referred to, are acknowledged in the body of the work, or in the notes prefixed thereto.

After the works that have already appeared,

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treating of the vaunted regions of the far west^ the author of these pages could hope to add nothing to a description that has luckily fallen into abler hands ; therefore, independent of the immediate connection of his narrative, he has attempted but little to picture those scenes where nature has so richly displayed her powers of creation, and upon which fruitful theme Irving, Cooper, Paulding, Hoffman, and a host of other able and distinguished writers, have expatiated in glowing terms.

He has therefore taken, as the ground-work of his book, the incidents peculiarly connected with the formation, organization, and subsequent movements of the regiment of United States dragoons — a regiment enlisted under peculiar circumstances, and for special purposes, having enrolled in its ranks a band of young men, which, taken as a body, are an honor to their country, and an ornament to the army establishment.

To the members of the regiment — to the army generally — and to the friends and relatives of the dragoons, the details of the fol-

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lowing pages may afford some matter of interest. Therefore, in case his book should fail to find readers among the public generally, he confidently hopes that it will not be neglected by those who should feel an interest in its welfare.

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Letter I

Enlistment— Commencement of Journey from Geneva— Arrival at BuiFalo.

Buffalo, August 9m, 1833.

My dear Sir,

I may appear impatient to seize upon the kind offer of your friendship, in having thus soon embraced the privilege it affords me : I pray you to attribute it to my eagerness to commence a correspondence whic h I am well assured, will prove a source of pleasure and gratification to me ; and, as I would fain believe, may in some measure be interesting to yourself, inasmuch as my letters will treat of subjects, as I anticipate, of a novel if not of a romantic character. As I am no stranger to the able productions of your pen, I rely upon being often cheered during my journeyings by its agreeable delineations. For some time yet you may not expect in my homely communications much matter of interest above the ordinary occurrences incidental to a long journey ; but meanwhile, unwilling to lose the benefit of your answers, I will from time to time dedicate to you an epistle.

But to begin my news. At Geneva, immediately upon my arrival, I met with Lieut. B. and made known to him that I was now ready to enter upon the line of life for which you know I evinced an early

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predilection. He told me that he intended setting forward upon his journey the next mornino^^ and accordingly that all things necessary must immediately be arranged. The ceremony of enlistment was but a momentary affair; that fi^nished^ 1 was what I had panted to be ever since I knew the meaning of the word — a soldier. Two or three flying visits occupied my time till evening, when we commenced the business of packing up. You cannot well imagine my eagerness to proceed : the Lieutenant often laughs at me for being in such haste to arrive at Head (Quarters, but every thing that savors of military life has an indescribable charm for me, and I am sure that I shall never regret my course, your prophecy to the contrary notwithstanding. However, should I be disappointed, I can only blame my destiny ; for although I am no Phrenologist, yet, if there is a word of truth in the doctrine, I have the bumps of a roving: disposition most strongly developed. Joking aside^ the prospect is delightful, whatever the reality may prove. The wild regions of the West, prairies, Indians, are all objects of intense interest to my romiantic imagination, and should I chance to be spared to return again, after my campaigns, to the more tame regions of the East, I shall no doubt be wiser, and perhaps more willing to settle down than at present. Having so frequently traveled between your metropolis and this city of the west, and every object being so familiar as well to yourself as to me, it would be but taking up a trite theme were I to enter into any detail of my route thus far ; but, as from this place forward every thing will wear the aspect of novelty^ I imagine that I shall not be deficient in materials to work upon for the future. We have taken passage to Cleveland, and in all probability will a^ain set forward to-morrow. Our point of destination is Jefferson Barracks, but Lieutenant B. I^ieing as ignorant of the best and most direct route as I am myself, and as but little regaixi to truth is to be paid to the infor- '2 nation one may chance to get piecemeal from agents and contractors, (who, of course, all recommend the way whereby they themselves may be most benefited,) we shall proceed according to our own judgment

The troop to which Lieutenant B. is attached, and •to which he promises I shall be also, are on their route towards Head Quarters, having left Madison Barracks (the station on Lake Ontario, at Sackett's Harbor) last Wednesday ; and as they therefore have three days advance of us, we shall hardly expect to overtake them on the road, i anticipate much pleasure from being attached to this troop. They are all "Yorkers," that is, from the western portion of our state, and therefore I shall not need to undergo any great change to become at once initiated. The Oaptain, too, is said to be pai excellent man as well as a superior officer ; so, all things considered, I shall no doubt fall into good hands. I assure you that I feel the utmost anxiety to join them ; indeed I have so precipitately jumped into this scheme, that I have scarce made an inquiry in relation to it, either as to the exact object of the regiment or the duty upon which it will be employ-ed. It was enough for me that a regiment was to be organized to "scour the prairies of the region beyond the waters of the Mississippi." That announcement carried conviction with it ; and I am the victim of its influence, lead to what it may. In my next you shall have some of my future gleanings. As I shall be continually on the move, 1 will not request an answer to be directed to me on the route ; therefore please superscribe your letters, "Jefferson Barracks."

Yours, (fee.

Letter II

Journey continued from Buffalo to Steuben ville, on the Ohio River.

1 Steubenville, Ohio, August, 1833. Dear Sir,

" Thank Heaven!" was the hearty ejaculation that I

uttered upon seating myself in the parlor of the

principal inn of this smoky town ; and never was

weary traveler more thankful for a moment's rest.

It would be asking too much, to request you even to

imagine so bad a road as that over which, for the last

two days and nights, we have been traveling. But

not to anticipate, I will return to the period of our

leaving Buffalo. The morning was delightful, and

the steamboat left the wharf heavily laden with freight,

independent of two hundred passengers, including

all sorts. After a pleasant sail of about two hours, a

squall came on, which was so violent as to cause

great destruction among the movables, and not less

fear and uneasiness among the passengers. It continued

raining violently throughout the whole afternoon and

night, during which time we were tossed and buffeted

about laost unmercifully by the waves. At length morn-

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^nir appuared, but brought with it scarce a brighter prospect. The wind was still very high, although the rain had ceased. W^ soon came in sight of Erie, but found it impossible to land there, on account of the high sea ; however, during the afternoon, after a great deal of difficulty, we came to alongside the wharf at Ashtabula. Unwilling to proceed any further by the boat, we ordered our luggage to be carried on shore, and determined to make the best of our way across the country to the Ohio river. Our better genius seemed to have directed us to this place, for a mail-coach was to be in readiness early the next morning to proceed directly on this route. A good night's rest and a hearty breakfast brought us again into traveling condition, and soon after daybreak we took the undisputed possession of the inside of the coach. The driver, with a loud crack of his whip, started off at a furious rate ; and we seemed accidentally to have hit upon the very route of all others that we should rather have chosen. During the first twenty miles of our ride the road proved as level and smooth as one could wish, but afterwards commenced a series of hills and hollows, occasionally varied by a delightful strip of corduroy, as you may recollect a species of causeway is fancifully termed, which is constructed of logs closely placed together across the road, where otherwise there might be no possible way of making a substantial foundation, the nature of the soil being loose and springy. This species of turnpike is by. far the most intolerable that I yet experienced. In many places the logs were decayed, and the consequence was a prov^oking succession of ups and downs, almost jolting us to death, and pitching us from one side of the coach to the other with an uninterrupted regularity. Owing to the sterility of the soil and the broken and hilly nature of the country, this portion of the state is but thinly populated ; and as nothing of interest occurred or presented itself upon the route to divert the attention, I assure you that we were right glad to arrive at the end of a journey the most uncomfortable that can be well conceived. We passed through the town of Warren on the evening of the second day's ride, and this morning came in sight of the waters of the Ohio at Wellsville, where we arrived about sunrise. We were surprised to find the river, which at this place is quite narrow, wrapt in a thick mantle of cloud, which, as the sun arose, gradually disappeared. This phenomenon, we were informed, is not uncommon on these western waters. We had hoped to be able to take the steam boat from Wellsville, but, owing to the unusually low state of the water, boats could not proceed above Steubenville, for which place we started, after about three hours respite and a hearty meal.

What a contrast this place presents to the villages in the western region of our own state ! There, every thing looks bright and new ; here, a thick coat of black covers the whole town, and gives to every thing an appearance of gloom and wretchedness. This is caused by the atmosphere's being filled with dense clouds of coal smoke which issues from the chimneys of the various manufactories, all of which burn the Pittsburgh stone-coal. We called for rain-water to wash in, and that which was brought us looked more like dye stuff than any thing else to which I can compare it. This however is a town of growing importance and considerable size. The supper-bell is ringing ; I will write from the Barracks immediately upon our arrival, if not again on the route.

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LETTER III. Journey continued from Steubenville to Jefferson Barracks

Jefferson Barracks^ August , 1833.

After a long and tedious journey we arrived at this post. I was gratified to find among the letters that awaited my arrival, one from yourself, and I sincerely hope that it may be the precursor of a regular correspondence. In my last I gave you an account of my progress as far as Steubenville, from which place the next morning we took passage to Wheeling, one of the prettiest and most bustling little cities in this part of the country, built upon a commanding site on the west bank of the Ohio river, in the extreme corner of the State of Virginia. From this place to Columbus we were rapidly hurried along over the great Cumberland road — which, by the by, is the most splendid example of perseverance, and at the same time one of the most advantageous improvements yet undertaken in this section of the country. After a few hours' stay at this flourishing town, we again took the stage for the metropolis of the West, and found ourselves next day at a spacious hotel in the city of Cincinnati, having journeyed the whole distance from Wheeling, over a country than which no other is more lovely and interesting. This part of Ohio reminds me of the western portion of our own State, not indeed so densely settled, but exhibiting much of that appearance of freshness and enterprise so strikingly developed in the almost fairylike growth of our towns and villages. Xenia and Springfield are the most conspicuous of

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the many through which we passed. We remained a day or two at Cincinnati, and again varying our mode of conveyance, took passage on board a steamer bound for Louisville, Ky. owing to the very low state of the water, we were somewhat longer than usual in performing this portion of our journey. Thus far our route has furnished me with nothing worthy of special remark ; • but the subsequent incidents of our passage from Louisville to this place partake rather more of the romantic character. I might indeed have furnished you with a description of scenery ; but it possessing no particular feature of interest, I concluded that the bare mention of such details would scarcely serve to interest you ; and besides, of late years this route has become so great a thoroughfare, that any remarks which I might make would only be a work of supererogation. At Louisville we met Lieut. Colonel Kearney, who informed us that Captain Summer's troop had embarked on board the steamer Helen Mar about a week before. This you may remember is the troop to which I anticipated being attached. At another time I would have taken much pleasure in noticing more minutely the various scenes through, which we passed ; but my mind has been continually occupied in the anticipation of our prospective campaign, and every thing, except affairs of a military nature, appear tame to me. I think even now, as I write, that I can see you smile at my enthusiasm, and shake your head doubtingly at my anticipations ever being realized ; but variety has ever been my watchword through life, and, even should an occasional dark cloud obscure the brighter prospect for a season, it serves to render its return the more cheering. Once more shifting our baggage, we became the incumbents of a spacious cabin of one of the splendid steamers which ply between the various ports of this noble stream, and about four o'clock the same afternoon, recommenced our journey down the Ohio. This we imagined would be our last change of the sort ; but it proved otherwise, as the sequel will shoW; The first twenty miles of our route was performed without interruption ; but coming suddenly in contact with a sand-bar, our boat was " brought up," to use a cant phrase, " all standing ;" and so unexpected was the shock, that a thousand vague conjectures were in an instant formed as to the cause, before we became acquainted with the fact. After we had all hastened upon deck, and the ears of the captain had been assailed with an hundred inquiries as to the matter, we began to think of a remedy. It was soon discovered that we were fairly grounded upon a sand-bar, and so firmly bedded, that our utmost efforts to disengage the boat seemed fruitless.

" What's to be done ?" inquired the passengers.

" We must try to work her into channel, or we must wait for a rise," replied the captain.

" Wait for a rise f exclaimed the passengers one and all, and a kind of sympathetic sigh went, through the whole of them.

"However," said the captain, "we must first try and get her into the channel."

And accordingly, suiting the action to the word, he jumped overboard, and was soon followed by both crew and passengers, who, after repeated eflbrts by rocking the boat from side to side, at length got her afloat; and, after working her into deeper water, we again got on board and proceeded on our way ; and, without having experienced any serious obstruction during the afternoon, " turned m" soon after tea, in hopes to wake in the morning and find ourselves well advanced upon our journey ; but alas, we awoke to a most provoking disappointment, for we were but three miles further than when we lay down, having again, during the night, grounded upon another bar, from which, after long and repeated attempts, we found it impossible to get her off: therefore the only way to get along comfortably was to play the part of the philosopher and trust to Providence. Morning passed away, the bell rang for dinner, but we had no appetites, vexation seemed to have eradicated every other feeling. After dinner, almost all the passengers, for the purpose of more effectually killing time, went to sleep. I however went on deck, and, with my segar in my mouth, and taking up the whole of three chairs, determined to make the best of a bad bargain ; and thus sat, puffing away care, for the greater part of two hours, as patiently (at all events, in appearance) as Job himself could have behaved in like circumstances. This river, which winds itself along in most fantastic curves and angles, exposed, at the peculiar point at which we lay, a view of the stream for several miles in either direction ; and as I sat in the comfortable attitude which 1 before hinted, something like a boat in appearance glided round the point of land, which before had hid it from my view, and slowly sailed towards us. Taking advantage of the first opportunity that presented itself, I immediately awakened Lieut. B. and urged him to take passage on board of her, whatever she might prove to be. Accordingly our baggage was got in readiness, and we hailed her as she was gliding by us in all the pristine glory that these lumbrous conveyances seemed to enjoy before the usurpation of their territory was effected by the introduction of steamers, for she turned out to be a " broad-horn," as this species of craft is euphonically called. It put me in mind of the pictures I had seen of Noah's ark more than any thing of recent invention. Willing, however, to take the advantage of even the unpromising accommodations which she might afford, we stood but little upon appearances.

She sent her yawl alongside ; and in half an hour we were again on our way down the river. The next thing to be done was to lay in something to eat during the voyage ; and accordingly appointing one of our company "steward," he with the yawl went on shore and laid in a fine supply of bacon hams and hard biscuit, to say nothing of the peaches and melons, which he said the fellow " hove in for greens.'^ Thus supplied, and having with the means of proceeding on our journey recovered our spirits, we once more began to be cheerful ; and the remainder of the day passed off more pleasantly. But alas, how the sweet and bitter things of this world are mingled together ! bedtime came, but no bed was there.

^^ Heigh-ho P^ said the Lieutenant, as he threw his cloke across the flour barrels, and taking a little keg of ten-pennies for a pillow, resigned himself to the keepingof the drowsy god.

^^Heigh-ho r thought I too, when, after having searched the hold of the boat from stem to stern for my own cloke to do likewise, at length found one half of it stowed snugly away under one of my fellow-passengers, who, in a strife for it with his neighbor, had be tween them rent it in twain, and were each enjoying themselves upon the severed portions of it. Leaving them to their sleepy enjoyment, I climbed up on deck, and, picking for the softest plank^ stretched myself upon it and soon fell asleep.

We remained for three days on board of the broad-horn, and having moved along so smoothly, almost entirely forgot the vexations that we had experienced in consequence of the sand-bars ; but being overhauled by another steamer bound down stream, and drawing, as the captain assured us on his honor, less water than any other boat on the river, we thought best again to shift our quarters, hoping thereby to make more rapid progress. Again moving our luggage on board the steamer , we bade adieu to our good friends the captain and crew of the broad-horn, who were as clever a set of fellows as ever pushed a sweep against the tide. However, our change proved to be of no avail in the end ; for although we met with no obstructions on the first day and night, yet the next morning bringing us to that part of the river opposite the mouth of the Cumberland, our boat grounded on the bar which is also distinguished by that name. And here we remained despite all our efforts to the contrary, and might have remained until the fall freshet, had no vessel come to our assistance ; but on the morning of the next day, as we were at breakfast, our ears were saluted by the sound of a familiar voice, which screamed out, " Hollo there, stranger !" springing to the deck, to our great joy we saw theidentical broad-horn which had before so opportunely come to our assistance, with her good natured captain standing on deck.

" I say, stranger, didn't I say that old '■ Slow and Easy' was a sure thing in the end?" said he exultingly — " How are you, Lef tenant ?" " How are you, old friend ?" answered Lieutenant B.

" Why, better off, I reckon, than that 'ere steamer ; why, she's as fast sot as the old sycamore root ; prehaps you'd hke to try the old 'Slow and Easy' again."

Overjoyed at the idea of going ahead again, even at the snail-pace rate that the broad-horn proceeded, he signified his wish to do so, and in a few moments we again became the occupiers of our old quarters on board the broad-horn, determined not again to be induced upon any account to leave her until she should arrive at the mouth of the river.

The Ohio is a noble stream, differing from the other large rivers of this country both in the swiftness of its current, width of its bed and character of its channel. The obstruction to its navigation, as has before been hinted, is caused by the sand-bars in a stage of low water, together with snags, sawyers and rapids. During a middle or high stage these obstructions entirely disappear ; and the only difficulty then to be encountered is an accelerated current. The navigation of this river may be relied on from about the middle of February to the end of June, and again the water is increased by a fall freshet, which usually takes place in October or November. The scenery of its banks is iieither striking nor peculiarly tame ; many places might be favorably noticed, but the description would be familiar to all, as of late years this route has become a thoroughfare to the whole world of country on the south as well as to the west and north.

Once more relieved from the monotony of lying upon a sand-bar, we were now sailing down that portion of the Ohio which glides between the shores of Kentucky upon one side, and Illinois and Indiana on

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the other. The good natured captain of the broad-horn tried to do every thing that lay in his power to render our quarters on board of his boat as comfortable as |Tossible ; he was one of that facetious kind of fellows that this portion of the country abounds in, a thorough-bred KentuckiaUj full of chin music^ as the species of loquacity which he possessed is termed here^ that is, he never found himself in want of words, but^ on the contrary, an argument, or perchance a song, if the occasion admitted of it, all came within the limit of his powers. In fact, the man saw our impatiencCy and truly he did much to alleviate it. Another character, however, of this motley crew, is worthy of remark. He was a man somewhat above the middle stature, and of a sunburned complexion, but with a set of features that denoted a miore than ordinary man ; a noble and projecting forehead, and a Roman nose, gave a prominency to his appearance that one could not help but observe ; but there was a wildness of expression about his eye which told that reason had partially resigned her empire over his mind. He cheerfully and steadily performed his duty, which was to take his turn at the oars or sweeps by which our boat was propelled. His beard had been neglected for several weeks, and, from its uncouth appearance, made the contrast between it and his noble features the more striking.