Ten years in Texas ...

Front matter

Class

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COFVRIGKT DEPOSin

Chapter I. — Getting under way g

Chapter II. — Trip from Montgomery to Mobile, New Orleans and Galveston. Sea sick. Revolution of head and heels 1 1

Chapter III. — A walk through the island city. A sharp trick expertly played by a peddling boy. From Galveston to Bryan. First sight of the prairies. Texas mud. Rustic scenes. Poisoned by a spurious policeman. Rescued by regular police. Relieved by a doctor 14

Chapter IV. — Continued rustic scenery. Superb camp-fires. Interviewed

countrymen. Gander pulling 18

Chapter V. — Great self-importance. A tour around town in search of employment. Rebuff upon rebuff. My business ideas modified. Disconsolate retreat. A restless night. Renewed applications for business employment. Cold rebuffs. A friendly, but disconsolate interview with a Virginian 22

Chapter VII. — Glowing accounts of cotton planting on the great Brazos. Adopted a new line of policy and business. Enthusiastic hopes and efforts. Riding on an ox-wagon. Mud, black mud, black adhesive mud. My first night in camp. Hideous, appalling, incomprehensible. Beautiful cotton-farms. Sandy prairies. Knoll in the heart of the bottom. Traits of the Freedman character 25

Chapter VIII. — Lonely ramble through the frontier. Narrow escape from Indians. I traveled all night. Abrupt approach on a Mexican ranch. Pursued by them. A running fight. A dubious herd of ponies. Rations out. A dismal evening followed by a stormy night. Lost my hat and horse. Rain and sleet. Nearly froze to death. Morning dawns bright and clear. Found my horse. Traveled on westward. Repast on broiled rabbit. Found a man hanging to a tree. A Mexican woman replenishes my rations. Night attack by highwaymen. Repulsed them. Rested several days with a friend 28

Chapter IX. — Items of interest. Kmigrants preparing for the frontier. A rugged ramble and scramble over the hills and dales of the Rio-Frio river. Killed a huge bear. A lonely, dismal and frightful night. Another day scrambling over hills. Stopped over night with a regular thorough-bred Mustang frontiersman. Spent an interesting, but unpleasant night. Bought ponies from a Dutchman near San Antonio. Drove them to the Brazos. Failed in selling them 41

VI CONTENTS

PACE

Chapter X. — We met with a couple of [men claiming to be direct from North-western Texas, reporting the market for pony stock good. Thitherward we went. Preparatory arrangements. Our line of march and retinue. Plain and Alpine scenery. Rip-roaring norther. Slippery, stickery mud. Suspicious characters visit our camp. Henderson's treachery. Sulphuric thunder-bolting. Stampede. Left forlorn on foot. Weary retrograde movement. Footsore, hungry and thirsty. Reached my starting point dead-broke. Sequel worthy of consideration 47

Chapter XL — Found loafing unprofitable. Profitable engagement as patent medicine agent. Its rustic and romantic nature. Anticipated censure. A visit to a pioneer Texan. Twelve months without bread. Jerked beef. General proclivities, manners, habits, etc., of old Texans. Some exceptions. Rainfall, game. Forest and domestic items. Characteristic negrojlogy. Frolic with wolves 57

Chapter XII. — Mineral waters. The great pineries and mills. Ramble

northward. Items of interest on the way 64

Chapter XIII. — Further rambles north and west. A deceitful snare skillfully laid to entrap and rob me. My purse and filchers missing. Fruitless search for them. General items of importance. Hedge and stone fencing. Scarcity of timber. Sherman and its importance. Monopoly of capital. Hints to the unwary 67

Chapter XIV. — A ramble up and down Red river. Diversity of soil and productiveness. Items of general interest to the contemplative emigrant. A tour through the Indian Territory. Items of general interest. Habits, manners and style of Indian life. A pretty, intelligent and civilly disposed Indian girl. Her hospitality and presents to me. Prominent traits of Indian character. General appearance of the country. Return to Texas . . 69

Chapter XV. — Met my old comrade Garrett at Fort Worth, who joined me in my westward rambles. Scarcity of water. Beautiful scenery. Items of general interest to contemplative emigrants. Interview with an old resident Baptist minister. A distant view of Kiowa peak. A lively frolic with some Indians. Casualties. A thirsty night ride. Salt fork of the Brazos. Mountain spring. California trail. Parted with Mr. Garrett, the most faithful friend I ever met 75

Chapter XVI. — I reluctantly parted with my friend Garrett. A lonely ramble. Magnificent scenery. A lonely man hanging to a tree. A hazardous plunge of my horse over a precipice in darkness. Appalling night. Daylight discloses my critical situation. Hazardous escape. Items of interest. Continued mountain and dale scenery. Beautiful and healthy region, but devoid of water. First glimpse of the Cado peaks. Big hole of water. Evidence of man and beast. Killed a cub bear. A glorious repast on cub. Indians hove in sight. Narrow escape. White men in pursuit. I was suspected of conspiracy with the Indians. My escape. Arrived at and ascended Cado peak. Beautiful Alpine scenery. Shot at and chased by robbers. My horse dies. I plod along on foot to the Brazos ; 80

CONTENTS Vll

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Chapter XVII. — Tired rambling. Rest awhile with jjiev. J. P. Grace. Items of interest on agriculture in Middle Texas. Devastation of drought. Another rambling tour. Meet a jayhawking thief. He follows me up for several days and robs me. Hints on jirecaution. Splendid prairies west of the Brazos. Facts and fancies worthy of consideration go

Chapter XVIII. — My advance to the frontier wilds. Howling wolves at night. .Sober reflections. Chased by a band of Ijandits. A running fight. One missing. I get away. Return south. Lonely rancho on the way. Hubbub between Mexican and American. River blockaded. Hazardous escape across the river. My baggage roi)bed. Opinion of the thief. Sequel 95

Chapter XIX. — Assaulted by drunken negroes. A combat. Items of interest along the San Antonio river. Guadalupe river. The burr grass. A Mexican lying across the road ; thought he was dead. His treachery. He gets away with my horse. My woebegone feelings. A valuable lesson. Lonely tramp on foot. Lockhart and surrounding country. A belt of poor country. A school celebration. Scarcity of water. Food for reflection in the sequel 102

Chapter XX. — A thrilling and disconsolate night among wolves, succeeded by a serene and pleasant night. A thrilling scene of Indians chasing buffalo. Habits of the buffalo. Habits of the Indian. Pleasant meeting of civilians. Killed a singular varmint and broiled it for supper. A frightful and bloody night with wolves. A narrow escape from highwaymen 106

Chapter XXI. — Concluded to return to civilization by way of the Panhandle of Texas. Appearance of the country. Met a squad of soldiers. Ramble south on the red fork of the Colorado. Chased by Indians. My escape. The appearance and my opinion of the country. Met a lone mountain trapper. His secluded retreat. His hospitality. The cause of his isolated life. Perfidy of woman. My opinion of commercial affairs. My opinion of the trapper, and my leave of him 115

Chapi ER XXII. — ISIy visit from the lone mountain trapper. Transit through one of the most joggy and disconsolate mountain regions that I ever traversed, succeeded by a beautiful plain. That soon defaced by a conflagration. My hazardous and appalling condition. My escape and its distressing consequences. The meeting of old friends, and their hospitable greeting and kind attention 126

CHAPTER I.

" There is a power, To make each hour As sweet as heaven designed it.

We need not roam, To bring it h^me, Yet few there be who find it."

Getting Under Way.

HAVING, in the fall of 1868, disclosed to some special confidants my intention to "go west," and the programme of operation, friend-like, they remonstrated, and earnestly begged me to abandon them.

They called my attention to the many treacherous characters that I would be likely to meet ; the many perils, privations and disappointments incident to a frontier life, but all to no avail. Having once made up my mind, I am not easily moved from my purpose. I secretly cherished the self-conceited impression, that what I did not know, King Solomon with all his wisdom could not guess at. These fancies were soon exploded. Experience, though often dearly obtained, is a treasure, and the parent of all human wisdom. Like many others, I found my surroundings very unsatisfactory. And to relieve these embarrassments, and attain that position in life that affluence alone (as I then thought) could give me, I packed up, and took steamboat passage from Montgomery, Ala., for the Lone Star State. Texas, undoubtedly, is a great State : great in territory, great in native wealth, great in productiveness, great in internal improvements, great in many respects. From a point directly west of Shreveport, on the State line between Texas and Louisiana, directly west to a point on the Rio Grande, the State line between Texas and Mexico is about six hundred miles. From Brownsville on the Rio Grande, near the coast, to Red river, the State line between Texas and the Indian Territory is about seven hundred miles. And the distance to the northwest corner of the State, bordering on New Mexico, is about nine hundred or more miles. I am not certain that these figures are exactly correct, but from the impression that I have of the distance, derived from traveling over this country on horse-back, I think they will be approximately so.

Texas comprises in territory 274,365 square miles. The State is said to be larger than France and Great Britain, and four times as large as Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island, all combined. It is a vast inclined plane, gradually descending in a southeast direction from its northern boundary to the Gulf of Mexico. As will be seen from its river flow, referring to a map of the State, the coast counties are nearly level for 75 to 100 miles inland. The surface then gradually rises for nearly half the State northward, where it breaks into knolls and hills, and finally into mountains in the northwest counties. Here it reaches the altitude of 5,000 feet. On the headwaters of the Brazos and Colorado rivers, you can see some magnificent peaks, conical, or sugar-loaf shaped. I don't think I could describe them to the southeast clodhopper better than to say that at a distance they would remind him of an old Alabama or Georgia fodder stack. I visited the top of Comanche peak and some others westward. When the atmosphere is a little hazy, you cannot distinguish objects at a distance, the horizon assuming a sombre, mystical appearance, shrouding from view the most prominent objects. But just after a whisking norther has dissipated these mists, you can discern the most minute objects at a great distance. It is quite a solacing treat to take in view some of these more beautiful landscapes — scenery, picturesque as the eye of mortal ever beheld.

Chapter II

Trip from Montgomery to Mobile, New Orleans and Galveston — Sea Sick — Revolution of head and heels.

I LEFT Montgomery, Alabama, on a river steamer bound for Mobile. I noticed nothing on the way worthy of mention. At Mobile I stopped, only to take the first lake steamer to New Orleans. At this place I stopped a day for recreation and to survey the prospects generally.

On my first tramp around the suburbs, my attention was attracted by a man at a door talking in tone C sharp, second octave, and speed of electricity. Of course my curiosity was excited to a palpitating amazement, and to appease my throbbing interior, I must go and learn the cause of so great a hubbub. Immediately on my arrival at the place! was told by the speaker that for twenty-five cents I could go inside and behold birds of every feather and snakes of every stripe, and a thousand and one magnificent scenes, the like of which the eye of mortal never beheld in one grand combination on the face of this terrestrial globe. In I went. A few old stuffed bird and snake skins arranged in a show-case comprised the dozy scenes that my elevated imagination was so amply prepared to behold. An idea of my abrupt descent from the sublime to the ridiculous can better be imagined than described. In the meantime I noticed at the back end of the room a man behind a show-case, similar to those so frequently seen in fancy dry-goods stores. In front stood two men, seeming to be making purchases. Of course, having paid my entrance fee, I was entitled to inspect all that was in sight. I passed down to these parties and quietly took my stand at the end of the show-case. I soon learned that the parties were negotiating for some playing cards. Some half a dozen packages were selected, and the vender, clerk-like, proceeded to wrap them up; but all at once he seemed to have just then thought of a little game connected with such cards, which he good-naturedly proposed to show. The customers seemed inordinately anxious to see it, whereupon the vender told them that they might select three cards from either pack which they had bought, and place the three selected cards face down on top of the show-case, and call for either one of the three cards, and that he would instantly turn that card.

" How much, said the customers, will you stake on that ?"

'' Five dollars," answered he.

" Here's fifty," they rejoined; " now cover that !"

He did so with two hundred and fifty.

The cards were selected and placed face down on top of the show-case. At this epoch, I noticed, that while the vender kept his right hand on top, in seeming readiness for business, he kept his left hand underneath. " Nine spot !" called out one of the customers; and instantly the vender turned it up, with the same stroke of the hand raking in the pile of money.

They were all amazement. One of them having sufficiently composed himself to speak, stammered out, " You will give us a chance to win it back, won't you }" *' Of course," said he. Whereupon, the same amounts in cash, in the same manner, were placed in stake. The cards were selected and placed in the same position as before. The selected card was called for and turned up in the same agile manner. The customers left the room with less money by one hundred dollars, but with more wisdom, no doubt, by several thousand, than when they entered it. As I have already hinted, I noticed in the operation of the first game that the vender kept his left hand underneath the show-case. In the second operation I watched this point closely, and discovered that his left hand by a pull of a spring wire moved a slide from over the face of a glass that was stationed on the bottom of the show-case directly underneath the cards. His quick eye instantly catching the reflection of the spots, the lid silently and quickly slid back over the glass, leaving the bottom of the case in its usual uniform appearance. The entire operation was performed inside of two or three seconds. I would never have been able to pick up this trick had I not suspected this point and the nature of the operation. Thus it is, that many hundreds of young men, in starting out in the world, are unwarily entrapped by old wharf-rats, who are ever lurking along your pathway to fleece you of your last nickel. Feeling satisfied that I had been amply reimbursed for my two bits, and that I was inhaling unhealthy atmosphere, I made my way direct to the street. After some further rambling around I halted at a restaurant and luxuriated in a magnificent oyster dinner.

My point of destination being Texas, I left New Orleans that evening for Galveston, on board the Lizzie Simmons, a magificent gulf steamer — famous Morgan Line, running the Gulf coast of Mexico.

My trip was not as pleasant as I had anticipated. Soon after we were well out on the Gulf, a terrific east wind, with torrents of rain, came upon us. The Gulf waters were soon rolling and tumbling, mountainlike, in waves against our craft, and occasionally splashing briny suds promiscuously over the deck, which was soon cleared of every thing in the shape of human freight. Like rats to their holes, we all absconded. I was very much perplexed, as well as disappointed, at this boisterous visit of wind and rain. I had anticipated the pleasure of some pleasing scenery along the GuJ^ coast. The darkest of darkness soon overshadowed and surrounded everything visible. I retired to my bunk for the night, with the hope that a fair morning would dawn upon us; but, to my great dismay and consternation, I soon found that I could neither lie, sit, stand, walk, nor crawl, and by morning my head and heels were alternately contending for the floor, my interior claiming the absolute right to no longer retain or give quarters to that magnificent oyster dinner that I had the day before indulged in. Galveston, in due time, was descried through the dismal horizon. We were soon landed, and by hack transported to a hotel, where I immediately consigned my shipwrecked remains to the recuperating embrace of nature's vital restorer.

Chapter III

A walk through the island city. — A sharp trick expertly played by a peddling boy. — From Galveston to Bryan. — First sight of the prairies — Texas mud — Rustic scenes — Poisoned by a spurious policetnan. — Rescued by regular police. — Relieved by a doctor.

AFTER about fourteen hours retirement, my head and heels became more reconciled to their proper spheres; my appetite considerably more courteous towards the little sea-shell intruder, and at the ring of the gong I bolted for the dining-room. Breakfast over, I repaired to the streets, with a view of inspecting the island city of the " Lone Star." Here I met a very clever and unsuspecting Georgian, who was also on his way to the interior ot the State. Our destination and object in view being the same, and spirits congenial, we agreed to perambulate the streets together.

After passing around, up and down, over and across, several blocks, we were accosted by a very fair-faced, bright-eyed, politely deported little boy, with a small wicker basket on his arm, and a '' Please, sir; buy a cigar, or box of matches " on his lips. Feeling no need of either, I declined to purchase; but my good-natured and unsuspecting companion, from motives purely sympathetic, made a purchase of a couple of cigars, at a nickel a piece, remarking that he greatly sympathized with these indigent boys, and liked to encourage them in their efforts in honest industry, at the same time handing me a cigar and match. On pulling out his purse to pay for his purchase, he discovered that he had no change less than ten dollars. The little vender instantly remarked, " Hold my basket, Mister, and I will run into this store and get your money changed." His deportment was so affable, his address so apparently honest, that distrust did not for a moment enter the thoughts of either of us. My companion held the basket, while the little boy flitted away with the ten dollars, to get \\. changed. There we patiently stood, discussing the future greatness of the island city. We puffed and puffed, diffusing long curling fumes skyward, but instinctively giving occasional glances in the direction our much-admired little vender had gone. Yet no small boy hove in sight. I noticed that my friend often changed the weight of his body from one foot to the other, as though his corns were hurting him. He continued to fumigate with increasing velocity, until the burnt end of his cigar was in close proximity. At this juncture he hurled away the stump, following it up with the remark that he had better look after the little scamp. On entering the store he accosted a clerk, to know if he had seen the little boy. Answered negatively, he continued his inquiries through the house. On being asked what the trouble was, this generous-hearted and charitable man recounted all the circumstances, whereupon the clerk, with a knowing look, remarked, " Look here, my friend ; if you trust every peddling boy you meet you will soon have more baskets than a dray can freight." The basket and contents were valued by all present at about seventy-five cents. That boy was seen no more by either of us. As much of the ways of the world as I had seen, and wise as I had presumed myself to be, I could not avoid the conviction that there was yet much for me to learn and profit by, a fact amply verified by later incidents. And no doubt many of my young readers can profit by remembering the checkered experience of Greenleaf.

I saw nothing more of an exciting nature during my short stay in the island city of Texas. The weather was very unpropitious for excursions or sight-seeing. It was now December, 1868, and about the close of a long wet norther, so common to that section. After a very refreshing night's rest, I continued my journey by railroad to Houston, the bayou city of Texas, and a railroad centre.

The weather continued to grow worse from day to day. The streets were in a sluice of mud and water, which precluded the pleasure of rambling around and viewing the character and importance of the place — a thing I so much desired. Being cooped up as I was, my spirits became restless and intractable, and I bid adieu to Houston.

Taking the Central Railroad train for Bryan, then the terminus of that road, I saw nothing more attractive on the route than the prelude to the famous prairies of Texas. Up to this time I had never seen a bald prairie. My first impression, as they flitted by the glass window on the car, was that they were old worn-out fields, abandoned to stock. I remembered, however, that I was approaching a new country, and that old fields were not in programme. I further noticed that the cattle were increasing in numbers at a rapid rate. My curiosity becoming interested, I began to make inquiries about the singular appearance of things. I was told that we were passing through the prairies. As stingingly cold as the wind was blowing, I could not refrain from getting out on the platform, to make a more close and general inspection, all of which was grand and startling in its novelty.

Our train ran into Bryan about sundown, the Railroad Hotel being near the depot. Myself and baggage were soon stowed away in comfortable quarters. The great rattling, crackling hubbub going on down on Main street created quite a lively interest in my imagination, so much so, that it was with great impatience that I waited for supper, which was quickly dispatched. Then off to Main street, through Texas mud, I made tracks; that is, I left marks on the ground in my rear resembling the bottom of a bread tray. On reaching Main street I saw that it would be rather hazardous to attempt to cross over, for the whole street, as far as I could see, was one dense throng of ox- teams, from six to twelve yoke, drawing huge prairie wagons, through black adhesive mud twelve to fifteen inches deep. Intermingled with this horde of ox-teams, were to be seen horsemen under full speed, splashing and spattering the black loblolly mud promiscuously over a radius of all-out-of-doors. And as they went, their vocal organs reverberated with oaths upon oaths, the most profane epithets that I have ever heard.

The shades of a chilly December eve were now fast closing out the scene ; but few lights were visible on the street, and the few were lanterns hung out at the different stairs and saloons, the latter indicated by red and blue colors. And from their frequency one would think that a lively and profitable business was going on in that exhilarating line of trade. As I passed down to the second block, my attention was attracted by a motly throng of human beings, representing in their native hues several different races, each one tiptoeing to see over the heads of a procession fronting a store door. Of course my curiosity led me to take a peep and see the sights. On my first view, I saw a man on a counter with some article of merchandise in hand rattling away with the limberest tongue I ever heard. I learned that it was an auction conducted by the famous Texas auctioneer, Mr. Applewhite. The people continued to close up the rear rank in a very boisterous, uncivil manner. All at once I felt my hat rising from my head, and, before I could raise my hand to stay it, hat and lifter were both gone through the dense surrounding throng. It would have been quite a difficult matter for the eye of man to have followed up a fleeing hat in day-time, to say nothing of the absolute impossibility in a dark, unilluminated street at night. I, however, backed out of ranks as best I could, and noticed at the next door a gentlemanly looking countryman, to whom I at once related the circumstance of losing my hat. He at once suggested to get a police. At this point a dandy-looking townsman, who overheard these remarks, stepped up and said :

" I am a policeman; what is your trouble ?"

I speedily related the circumstances.

" Go with me," said he. "I can find your hat and arrest the thief."

As self-conceited as I had hitherto been in my wiseacre notion, I soon found that my school-days were not yet numbered. I never once thought to notice for his official ensign, or ask for his commission, but went hurriedly away with him. He said it was useless for us to look around the auction-house, but we would certainly find the thief and hat down town. After passing two or three blocks, and crossing over to Railroad street, he halted me in the dark, fronting a saloon, saying "Stay here till I look inside." I did as ordered. My policeman soon returned, saying that no one was in there, but that we would soon find him down town, and down the street he conducted me. He soon halted and pulled out a flask from his pocket, saying : " It is cold ; I have a little good brandy ; try some ; it will help us." Unsuspectingly I took a good dram. It being very dark, I did not notice whether he took any, but he immediately placed his arm around mine, and said : "Let us hurry up." Before I made more than thirty paces, I was seized by the most excruciating pain in my stomach that I ever felt. Forty wild-cats on a general stampede could not have produced a more startling sensation than was then going on in my interior. It was but natural for me, under such terrific circumstances, to whoop and yell equal to a Comanche Indian on a Buffalo hunt. This obstreperous uproar brought instantly to my rescue two regular policemen. They found me on my knees and hands, vomiting like a sick kitten. It was very dark, and as I was not able to give an intelligible account of myself, they picked me up and took me to a doctor's office, where a dose of physic was immediately administered. In a short time I was greatly relieved, and, by the assistance of the police and the doctor, I was able to go to my room. There I was put to bed, rested very well until near morning, when I began to feel in my stomach the same peculiar sensations. I got up, and drank some water, which afforded partial relief. The doctor, whose name I have forgotten, called in my room quite early in the morning and administered more physic, advising me to keep to tny room and remain quiet through the 'day. By next morning I felt all right again.

The doctor stated to me that I had been poisoned by the liquor I drank from the flask of my spurious policeman, and that the dose was so large that it caused my stomach to disgorge it. This was all that saved me. The police who rescued me from my critical predicament called early in the morning, to try to get some information that would lead to the detection of the sneak-thieving perpetrator of so dastardly an act. But as I met the man in the dark, and as he sagaciously kept me "in the dark," I was not able to so describe or identify him sufficiently to warrant an arrest of any one. From the best information I could give them, it was our unanimous opinion that he was an old wharf- rat; one that followed the railroad for the purpose of practicing his villainies upon every unsuspecting greenhorn, such as the writer of the present narrative. With this ends the first eventful night that I spent in the interior of Texas, and long will its frightful reflections blaze terrifically in my memory. Such tricks as this, outside of the large cities in the old States, are seldom, if ever, heard of, or perpetrated.

But, my dear young reader, if you contemplate traveling West, allow me, in all kindness and good wishes for your safety, to admonish you, that you can never be too vigilant. It is true you will sometimes meet good men, but you will oftener take the bad for the good, than the good for the bad. The object and purposes of this fallacious villain that I met in Bryan are too obvious to need comment. A professional thief undoubtedly he was ; one to whom, while on the Western frontier, I have met many similar. The recesses of the frontier afford a harbor favorable to their purloining profession, in which they can store with comparative safety their ill-gotten gains and with impunity seclude their diabolical individuality.