The middle states: a handbook for travellers. A guide to the chief cities and popular resorts of the middle states, and to their scenery and historic attractions; with the northern frontier from Niagara Falls to Montreal; also, Baltimore, Washington, and northern Virginia. With seven maps and fifteen plans

Front matter

mm ifMil'

i

I

Contents

PAOE

NEW YORK xi

PENNSYLVANIA xil

Index to Steamboats 469

MAPS.

1. Railroad Map of the Middle States : Front Pocket.

2. Topographical Map of the Adirondack Mountains and J

Lakes : Back pocket.

3. Map of the Catskill Mountains : fronting page 90.

4. Map of the Hudson River : between pages 62 and 63. 6. Map of Long Island : between pages 48 and 49.

6. Map of the Environs op New York : between pages 38 and 39. ■

7. Map of the Environs of Philadelphia: between pages 284 and 2S5.

PLANS OF CITIES, etc.

1. Baltimore : between pages 394 and 395.

2. Brooklyn : between pages 38 and 39.

3. Buffalo : between pages 232 and 233.

4. Central Park : between pages 32 and 33.

5. Greenwood Cemetery : between pages 42 and 43.

6. MoNTRE-VL : between pages 120 and 121.

7. New York City : between pages 4 and 5

8. Niagara Falls : facing page 177.

9. Ottawa : between pages 128 and 129.

10. Philadelphia : between pages 262 and 263.

11. Pittsburgh : between pages 352 and 363.

12. Rochester : between pages 170 and 171.

13. Saratoga : between pages 94 and 95.

14. Toronto : between pages 186 and 187.

15. Washington : between pages 418 and 419.

ABBREVIATIONS

N. — North, northern, etc.

S. — South, etc.

E. — East, etc.

W. — West, etc.

M. — Mile, or miles.

r. — right.

1. — left.

ft. — foot, or feet.

hr. — hour.

min. — minute, or minutes.

Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention.

THE MIDDLE STATES.

New York.

" The Empire State " is bounded on the N. by Lake Ontario and the Province of Ontario, on the E. by the States of Vermont, Massachusetts, and Connecticut, on the S. by the Atlantic Ocean and the States of New Jersey and Pennsylvania, and on the W. by Pennsylvania, Lake Erie, and the Niagara River. It covers 47,000 square miles, and is divided into 60 counties, with 930 towns and 22 cities; and the population is 4,382,759, with 823,484 voters (census of 1870), making it the most populous State of the Republic. 1,138,353 of the inhabitants are foreign-bom. The manufacturing interests are of great extent and variety, and in 1865 reported 24,530 establishments, employing 206,166 persons and $ 227,674,187 of capital, and producing annually $457,133,717 worth of goods. Tlie commerce of New York is larger tlian that of any other State, and is slowly recovering from the crushing blows inflicted by the Anglo-Rebel privateers, which reduced its tonnage of 921,983 in 1862 to 471,473 tons in 1865. New York City is the only important ocean-port, and is the commercial metropolis of the Western Hemisphere, The lake ports (Oswego, Buffalo, Geneva, etc.) have an enrolled tonnage of over 312,000 tons. There are 167 insurance companies, and savings-banks with deposits amounting to nearly $ 200,000,000. The immense railroad systems connected with the N. Y. Central & Hudson River and the Erie companies cover most of the inhabited counties ^\dth their tracks, and the canals (which are under the care of the State) transport vast quantities of provisions and miscellaneous goods.

The State Census of 1865 reported 60 religious sects, Avith 5,388 church edifices, valued (together with their land) at over $ 50,000,000, with a membership of 741,831, and an average attendance of 1,070,662. The Methodist Church greatly preponderates in numerical strength ; and the Presbyterians and Baptists come next. The Episcopal Church has great wealth and influence; and the Roman Catholics exercise a controlling power in the chief city of the State.

Tlie military force consists of 24,285 citizens, enrolled in 8 divisions, consisting of 39 regiments, 10 battalions, 7 troops, and 11 batteries. The term of service is 7 years, during which the men are exempt from juryxii PENNSYLVANIA.

duty and receive pay for the 6 annual drills and the summer encampments. Behind this disciplined and mobilized force is the immense strength of the Reserve Militia, which is liable to be called into service in time of national peril. During the Secession War (1861 - 65) the military strength of the State was displayed in a remarkable degree, and there were sent thence to the scene of war: 26 regiments of cavahy ; 17 regiments, 3 battalions, and 34 batteries of artillery; 4 regiments of engineers; and 194 regiments of infantry (mostly for three years' service).

The present territory of New York State was discovered in 1609 by Henry Hudson (of the Dutch East India Company) on the Hudson River side; and by Samuel de Champlaiu, the French Governor of Canada, on the Lake Champlain side. Dutch trading-posts were established in 1613 and 1614, and the country was named the New Netherlands. Large immigrations of Hollanders soon occupied the Hudson River Valley, and in 1664 the country was conquered by a British fleet, and was named New York. Thenceforth for nearly a century the new province was engaged in almost constant warfare with the French in Canada, being aided by the powerful Indian confederacy of the Six Nations. But a short time after the Conquest of Canada New York entered the new American Republic and became a powerful member of the Union. Much of the Revolutionary contest was carried on within its borders, and its chief city was occupied for 7 years by the royal forces. Since the beginning of the present century the growth and development of the State have been rapid and healthy, and it is now tlie foremost of the United States.

Pennsylvania.

" The Keystone State " is bounded on the N. by Lake Erie and the State of New York, on the E. by New York and New Jersey, on the S. by Delaware, Maryland, and West Virginia, and on the W. by West Virginia and Ohio. It is crossed from N. E. to S. W. by the Allegheny Mts. in a belt 200 M. wide, which is occupied by long pai'allel ridges separated by narrow and picturesque valleys. The extensive districts which are included in the limestone valleys are among the most fertile in the Republic, and are densely populated by agricultural populations (mostly of Germanic origin). The State derives its chief importance from the great mines of coal and iron which are scattered throughout the hill-country ; and the aggregate of its iron manufactures is of great value, and is constantly increasing. Between 1840 and 1870 (inclusive) over 200,000,000 tons of anthracite coal were mined here, besides immense quantities of bituminous coal in the Western counties. The petroleum trade is of more recent development, and between 1860 and 1870 (inclusive) there were produced 35,430,217 barrels of petroleum, a large portion of which was exported. Marble, copper, zinc, salt, and saltpetre are also found in large

PENNSYLVANIA. xiii

quantities. Varied and extensive manufactures are carried on at Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, and other of the chief cities. Since the State has no ocean-front, its commerce is small in comi:)arison with that of New York or Massachusetts; but a lucrative transatlantic and coasting trade is centring in Philadelphia, and Pittsburgh commands a considerable share of the commerce of the Ohio River. The railroad system is at present composed of several first-class lines (controlled by the Penn. R. R.), and will be quite complete when the roads which are now in actual process of construction are finished.

Pennsylvania has 3,521,791 inhabitants. It covers 44,317 square miles, and is divided into 65 counties, 1,471 towns, 417 boroughs, and 19 cities. It is claimed that the climate is milder than that of New York, except on the northern plateaus, whose mean temperature is nearly as low as that of Southern New England (which is on the same latitude).

The census of 1860 reported in Pennsylvania 40 religious sects, with 6,337 churches valued at $22,581,479 (one church for every 543 inhabitants). The Methodists, as usual, are very far in the majority, next to whom come the Lutherans, Presbyterians, German Reformed, and Baptists. There are numerous quaint sects of Germanic origin, wliose names are seldom heard elsewhere in America, — Moravians, Dunkards, Amish, Mennonites, etc.

The military organization of the State is less elaborate than that of some other of the Eastern States, but is capable of tremendous action in time. The first Northern troops who reached imperilled Washington in 1861 were Pennsylvanians ; and during the Secession War the State furnished to the national government 362,284 soldiers, exclusive of the powerful levies from the local militia for the repiilse of the rebel invasions.

The shores of the Delaware Avere settled before 1640 by Swedes and Finns, who were subjugated in 1655 by the Dutch from New York. In 1664 the land was taken by the British, and in 1681 was granted by King Charles II. to William Penn, and tlie new domain was named Pennsylvania (the Penn Forest, Penn's Woods, or as the grantee preferred to understand, "The Mountain Forest," — from the Welsh word, Pen, a. mountain, and the Latin Sylva, a forest). Penn soon came to his new estates, and founded the city of Philadelphia. An honorable peace was concluded with the Indian tribes and the colony grew rapidly, receiving large accessions of English and Welsh Friends. After the year 1700 began the great Germanic immigration which slowly pressed out or submerged the English Quaker settlements in the rural counties, which are still occupied by the conservative and unassimilated myriads of the " Pennsylvania Dutch." The State took a prominent part in the Revolutionary War (though the Quaker citizens were generally opposed to the xiv NEW JERSEY.

imiependenoe of AnicriMV and scvoi'al desperate battles were fcnight on hex soil. The Whiskey Insurrection oconrrotl in the \TCstern co\inties in 1794. but was soon broken \\\\ Thenceforth for many ye^rs the citizens CAnied forwaixi the deveh->pnient of the vast nuneral ix?«ource,s of the State, and founded new citie* and prospeixjus lmro\ig]is. During the Secession War, Pennsylvania actM with promptitu<le and ]X)wer. giving her whole strength to the National cause. Her soil was twice invatle<l by the SoTithenx armies, who advanced to within four miles of the capital : and within her lx>rders, at the olv<:cnre borough of Crettysburgh, was fought the tremendous three-da\-s battle whose issue insure*! the integinty of the Eepublic.

New Jersey

is lx>unde(i on the N. by tlie StAte of New York, on the E. by New York and the Atlantic Ocean, on the S. by the Delax^-aw l^\y. and on the W. by Pennsylvania. The S. and middle ix)rtions are level and sandy, and are Ivtixlered by narrow salt-water lagoons; but the N. and N. W. tx)rtions are covered \kith low and lake-strewn spurs of the Alleghaivy Mts. Only a small ixirtion (relatix-e.ly) of the land is improve*!, as the extensive pine-plains toward the oce^n have an unprolilic soil. The chief natural }M'oduct« are fruit* and vegetables, which are readily dispose*! of in the great markets of New York and Philadelj^hia, The manufacturing intere^t* are important, the most unique being the extensive silk-fact<->ries at Paterson. The railroad system is well an-ange*! and ]>owerful, and is mostly controlle*! by the Penn. R. R. ; an*! there are two long canals, one of which is for the i^assage of large vessels Wtween the Delaware River and the lower l>ay of New York. Iron and zinc mines are profitably worked in the N. W. counties: and valuable beds of niai^l and glass-sand are found in the E. and S. Not\)i-ithstAnding its long ocea,n-fr*->nt, the commerce of the St^te is insigniticAut, being monopolized by the cities of New York and l^'hiladelphia.

The eoclesiastic4il statistics of 1S60 showed 1,123 churchesi, valued at $ 7,762,705 (one church for every 59S persons). Tlie predominant sects are the Metho*!ists and I*resbyterians. A well-disciplined force of citizensoldiery is kept under discipline and in marching order, and the State furnishe*! nearly 90,(X">0 men to tlie national armies during the Secession War.

New Jei'sey has 906,096 inhabitants. It covers an area of S,820 square miles, and is divided into *21 counties.

This region was settled by the Dutch ne^r Bergen in 1614, and by the Swedes on the Delaware Bay in 1627. After th.e British conquest of New York (1664), it was granted by the Duke of York txt Lor«i Berkeley and Sir George CaTteret, and was named in honor of the latter, who was a

DELAWARE. XV

native of the Isle of Jersey (in the English Channel). It was flivlded into East and West Jersey, the latter of which was occnpied by William Penn. Puritan colonies from New England settlerl near the N. shores, and English Friends occnpied the S. W. During the Revolutionary War the State was the scene of three American victories, and of two winterencampments of the Continental army.

Delaware is bounded on the N. by the State of Pennsylvania ; on the E, by the Delaware River and Bay ; on the S. and W. by Maryland. It is the smallest State in the Union, except Rhode Island, and contains 2,002 square miles, which are divided into 3 counties and 27 hundreds (corresponding to towns). The population is 125,015 ; and in 1860 there were 220 churches, valued at §846,150 (one church to every 510 persons). There is a main trunk-line of railroad running from Wilmington S. across the State, with several branches to the E. and W. ; and the Chesax>eake & Delaware Canal gives passage for small vessels between the great bays on either side. The manufacturing interests are clustered about Wilmington ; and the majority of the people are engaged in agriculture, producing large crops of "wheat, Indian com, Irish and sweet potatoes, berries and peaches, and valuable supx'lies of butter and honey, Tlie upper part of the State is diversified with rounded hills and fruitful valleys; but the lower counties form vast plains, which degenerate into cyx>ress-swamps along the S. boundary.

Delaware was discovered by Henry Hudson in 1609, and was settled at an early day by the Swedes, according to the plans of King Gustavus Adolphus. After 4 Swedish governors had held the reins of power, the colony was conquered by the Dutch (1655), and was occupied by the British in 1664. The name of the State was given in honor of Thomas West, Lord De la Ware, sometime governor of Virginia, who died on shipboard in the Delaware Bay, June 7, 1618. The territory was granted to William Penn in 1682, but v/as separated from his domain in 1701. Under the guidance of Dickinson and Rodney, it bore a bravely patriotic part in the Revolutionary War, though part of its territory was overrun by the royal troops. Although, on account of its position as a slaveholding border State, Delaware was importuned by the Southern leaders to secede from the Union, it continued firmly loyal, and sent to the national armies 8 regiments, a cavalry battalion, and a battery.

Maryland is one of the Southern States, and is bounded on the N. by Pennsylvania, on the E. by Delaware and the Atlantic Ocean, on the S. by Virginia, and on the W. by W. Virginia and Virginia. It covers 11,124 square mileri.

Xvi MARYLAND.

and is of varying natural characteristics. 8 coiinties are located on the level penmsula (called "the Eastern Shore") between tlie Chesapeake Bay and the ocean, and are indented by deep tidal estuaries, which abound in oysters and fish. The western counties are mountainous, and contain vast deposits of semi-bituminous coal, which is shipped from Cumberland on the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal. Maryland is one of the foremost States in a commercial point of view, most of its marine trade centring at Baltimore. Wheat, Indian corn, and tobacco are the chief agricultural products, and cotton is raised on the Eastern Shore. • Maryland was originally named Terra Marian, or Mary's Land, in honor of Queen Henrietta Maria, and was settled along the Chesapeake in 1631-32 by alHuent Catliolic families. For many years the province was agitated by conflicts between the Puritans at Providence (Annapolis) and the Catholics. In 1619 the act of toleration was passed which made Maryland "the land of the sanctuary." The attacks of hostile Indians on the W. disciplined the people, so that the " Maryland Line" was one of the most valiant bodies of troops in the Continental army. The State wavered for a moment when the Secession War broke out (being a Southern and slave State), but finally rejected the ordinance of Secession, and remained true to the Union. Many regiments from ]\Iaryland entered the national armies, and others were enrolled among the Confederate forces.