Discovery and conquests of the North-west

Introduction

A Spain took the lead in settling the New World. The West India Islands, Peru, Mexico and Florida were Spanish provinces before any other nation had obtained even a foothold in the great Western inheritance of Nature. But. these first Spanish adventurers were too richly rewarded with gold not to intoxicate the brains of the nation. Despising the slow process of agriculture as a means of wealth, they wasted their strength in searching for gold wherever they went, and left the fairest portions of America to be colonized by France and England. France pushed her settlements up the St. Lawrence river, and ultimately into the country of the great chain of lakes and the entire valley of the Mississippi, with a view of holding the great channels of American commerce, while the English, at random, set their foot upon the Atlantic coast, without any plans for the future. ) It is seldom that great national expectations are fulfilled, and the ultimate destiny of America is no exception to this almost universal rule. Year after year the English colonists toiled in contentment along the eastern fringe of the continent, hardly beyond the hearing of the waters that beat against their narrow foothold in the New World. What was beyond these confines they knew not, nor had they time to inquire, for other work was before them. Across the ocean they had unconsciously borne the elements of a great nation. These had to be planted on a new soil and cultivated into a vigorous growth. While this planting season was in progress, the French, with far-reaching ambition, were strengthening their positions in the interior by building forts and establishing friendly relations with the Indians. No rivalship between th^. two nations was manifested at

4 Introduction.

first, but ultimately the religion and State policy of France was destined to come into competition with these same elements in the workings of the English mind. The latter prevailed after a long and apparently even-matched warfare, and the hopes of France were dashed to the ground. The English flag now waved over lake, river, and coast, wherever beginnings had been made, but their triumph had but a transient tenure. A new idea seizes upon the minds of men, and a new flag springs into existence. The English in turn are driven from our soil, and only the Indians, its natural inheritors, left to contend against the Americans. A prolonged struggle ensued on their part for existence, and on ours for advancement. Many complex conditions were brought into the issue. The early French relations to the Indians ; their inter-marriages and consequent sympathy for them ; the fur trade and its medley of associations, evil and good ; the partially successful missionary efforts both of the French Roman Catholic Fathers and of the United Brethren, or Moravians. All these brought a charm of romance into the ■ever open chasm between the pioneer soldiers and the tenacious Indians. Slowly and sadly the latter retreated forever from the blood-stained soil, and few of their offspring are left among the living of to-day. Neither their courage, nor their murderous revenge could save them, and what has been a loss to them (but a few in number), has been a gain to the millions who now own the soil.

Never before in the history of the world has the ambition of man been stimulated to such an extent as here. The jurists, the schoolmasters, and the ministers of New England and Yirginia followed the host of pioneers to the new field where all the appliances of civilization were to be built and the timber taken from the stump. During this process the stream of wealth has more than kept pace with expectation, till we now find our selves equal in rank and influence with the older States of the Union. For this position we are partly indebted to recruits from all the enlightened nations of Europe. It is not too much to say that we are made up of the activity and enterprise of the world as it brimmed over its confines at home and found a broader field here for its action.

"The West," "Western," "Western characteristics,"

Introduction. 5

are significant expressions. They mean dash, spirit, elasticity, resolution, and hope. Nor is it strange that these are the prominent traits of a people whose star of destiny has so suddenly risen to the zenith ; of a people nurtured into confidence in themselves by an almost unremitting tide of advancement in everything whjch constitutes national grandeur, except the finishing touches of art and science, which are yet to be perfected.

While these conditions have grown upon us in our progress down the highways of time, we have laid upon ourselves heavy burdens by premature legislation, not unlike those of the erratic sallies of childhood. Wiser counsels must come to our rescue to make amends for these, just as the well-digested thoughts of maturity recast the images of youth.

Breathing time has now come to view the ground over which we have traveled, doubly endeared to us, because we ourselves were the first to take possession of it, and because we fashioned its institutions after our own model. That our history rises in importance as we assume larger proportions in the body politic, is manifested by the eagerness with which every thing pertaining to the early records of the West is sought after, and by the increasing number of Historical Societies springing up throughout the country, for the preservation of these precious relics.

The rival interests of nations, complicated with religious and social conditions, produce war, and the province of the historian is not circumscribed to the details of the battle-field. These are but the means by which the passions and sympathies of nations achieve their ends. Hence, history, without reference to issues and contingencies, is only a bundle of facts, packed into the leaves of a book too tightly for the wedge of inquiry to let light shine between them. If the historian has failed to introduce to his readers the motive power that lets loose the dogs of war, his book will be like the play of "Hamlet with Hamlet left out." That history has taken the first place in literature, is due to the exhaustless character of its subjects, among which may be found truths which foreshadow the future from the past, and leave a more abiding impression than the teachings of fiction.

The Author.

CHAPTER L

Jaques Cartier explores the St. Lawrence River — Settlement of Quebec — Discovery of Lake Champlain — Expedition against the Iroquois — Dutch settlement at Albany — Discovery of Lake Huron — The Falls of St. Mary reached — The French take formal possession of the country — Discovery of the Mississippi River — The Pictured Rocks — Discovery of the Chicago Portage — Marquette winters at Chicago— The Indians'* affection for him — Religious services on the prairies — Death of Marquette. The removal of his remains to St. Ignace — His Journal — Late discovery of his bones.

Far in the depths of a new continent, a flat heath of waving grasses is pierced by a small tranquil stream, from whose unrippled face the moon-beams had glittered for ages in silence.

This is all that can be said of the history of Chicago, till the white man visited it, and learned from the Indians that it was a convenient portage from the interior to the lakes.

When Alexander was weeping that there were no more worlds to conquer, with no overstrain of the imagination, we can see the Indian securely gliding his canoe over the Chicago river into Lake Michigan, with an omnipotent reliance upon his own skill and courage, to protect himself from the greatest conqueror on earth, and it is difficult to tell which would have been the most surprised, Alexander or the Indians, could both have been informed of each other.

History begins with mythology, in the old world, — in the new, on an immaculate tablet, simple and positive. Here the white man has raised his altars and commenced making his record, and the traditions of the red man have vanished before him, but still some enduring monuments of his nomenclature remain.

These unlettered lexicographers gave symbolic names to their rivers, lakes, islands and to themselves, and in their vocabulary they had the name Chicago, which, in the language of the Illinois tribes, meant an onion. This is all it meant in a posi-

8 Settlement of Quebec,

tive sense, and by this name the place where our city stands* has been known from a period ante-dating its history. * It i» highly probable that it was thus named because wild onions grew in great profusion there. That the name was a synonym of honor, is demonstrated from the fact that the Illinois tribes named one of their chiefs Chicago, and thus elevated above his peers, he was sent to France in 1725, and had the distinguished honor of being introduced to the Company of The Indies. f

The discovery and exploration of the whole interior of the country, was the work of French zeal and enthusiasm. To propagate the faith was the first object, at least in theory, but not far behind it was ambition to annex new realms to the crown of France. In pursuit of these two objects, the exploits of their adventurers, soldiers and missionaries, have justly challenged the admiration of the world. Borne along by the tidal wave of glory, these men gathered force and strength as they penetrated into the country, and breathed the air of freedom which pervaded the limitless creation of prairie and forest under the regime of the red man.

Even before the Spaniards under De Soto, had penetrated from Florida to the Mississippi river, which was from 1539 to 1543, the French under Jaques Cartier, had sailed up the St. Lawrence as far as Quebec. This was in 1534. The delighted adventurers returned to France with the news of their discoveries of the wedge-shaped river ninety miles wide at its mouth, graduating to the dimensions of a common river at Quebec. What was beyond was left to conjecture for the present, for France was then too much distracted with religious dissensions at home, to utilize her discoveries on the St. Lawrence, and it was not till 1608 that she made the attempt. At that time, Samuel de Champlain, who was justly called the father of New France, made a permanent settlement at Quebec. He was the man for the place : austere in religion, sapient in politics, and courageous in war.

The deeds of the first settlers of all new countries are germcells of future destiny. Even the early Indian policy has had its influence, and it is not too much to say, may have had much to do with casting the lot of the Northwest ultimately, with the English colonies, instead of with the French, who were its first discoverers and owners. The tribes along the St. Lawrence, or Hochelega, as it was sometimes called, were friendly with the French, whom they called Ononthio. (our older brother.) In

* Happily there is now (1878) a living witness (Gurdon S. Hubbard, Esq.,) well known for candor, who was versed in the Illinois language, whose testimony is the authority here given for the meaning of the word, and may be looked upon as conclusive. Schoolcraft and other authorities might also be cited, if more were required.

\ Shea's Charlevoix. Vol. II, page 78.

Settlement at Albany. #

Champlain they beheld their champion who could lead them to victory against their ancient enemies, the Iroquois, or Five Nations, who inhabited the present State of New York. Their central seat of power was located on the banks of Onondaga lake, among the cluster of lakes which was then, and is now, the paradise of the region thereabouts.

Without discussing the merits of the dispute between these traditionary enemies, Champlain consented to lead a war party of his allies, of the St. Lawrence, against the Iroquois. It was in 1609, the next year after the settlement of Quebec, that he, with a canoe fleet of noisy Indians, paddled his way up the river, then without a name, which connects the waters of Lake Champlain* with the St. Lawrence river. Following the Western Bank of the Lake nearly to the present site of Ticonderoga, at midnight they saw the enemy, who, like themselves, were on some adventure. The two parties held a parley and agreed to land and wait till daylight before commencing the fight. In accordance with this truce, each band chose their positions like duelists on a field of honor. Champlain opened the battle by

Eiercing two Iroquois chiefs through the body at a single shot of is rifle, and the brave but astonished Iroquois fled before the effective weapons of warfare, which had been so unexpectedly introduced among them. But the end was not yet. The same year Henry Hudson sailed up the river, which bears his name, to the present site of Albany, and built Ft. Orange. Around this nucleus of German power (ultimately English power, ) the Iroquois gathered with amicable intentions, all the more abiding from the fact that the French had assaulted them at first sight, and thus made them their enemies.

This good fellowship was reciprocated. The Indians wanted guns, kettles and knives, and the Dutch wanted furs in exchange for them. In a few years they wanted more. As the aggressive spirit of the French on the St. Lawrence began to make itself manifest, the Dutch found their Iroquois allies a convenient bulwark, behind which to take shelter from their Canadian foes, both French and Indian, who at an early day often threatened the Northern border with destructive forays; meantime Champlain's colony soon began to feel the weight of Iroquois vengeance, relieved only by treacherous intervals of peace. In 1615 Champlain pushed his explorations to the banks of Lake Huron, and flourishing missionary stations were established in the country of the Hurons on the Eastern shore of the lake, which still perpetuates their memory. In 1641 two zealous missionaries, Jogues and Rambault reached the falls of St. Mary, and in 1658, two venturesome fur traders, one of whose names was De Groseilles, reached the Western extremity of Lake Superior and wintered

* The lake took its name from him.

10 First News of the Mississippi.

.among the Sioux, the same people whose descendants overwhelmed the army of Gen. Custer in the Black Hills, during the summer of 1876. At that time these tribes numbered .40,000* and held the country far to the West — even beyond the Mississippi river. They told the French traders about the great river which flowed southwardly through the interior, which were the first direct tidings which came to them of this stream. The next spring the two traders returned to Canada with an escort of 250 Indians and a valuable cargo of furs. A great sensation was produced by this imposing delegation. The news they brought of the great river was particularly inspiring to the French, whose passion for water channels of communication into the interior was overweening. An expedition to return with the Sioux to their distant lodges beyond the great lakes, was immediately set on foot ; all classes were eager to join it, the fur traders for peltries and the missionaries to open new fields for gospel cultivation. The former provided themselves with trinkets for barter with the Indians, and the latter with baptismal basins wherewith to put the seal of Christianity upon their disciples, who were to be converted from heathenish darkness into the light of Christianity. Armed with these and other appliances, the hosts of the devil were to be attacked in the very heart of his dominion, to use the language of the Jesuit relations during those days of chivalric piety. And in truth, when these hardy old Soldiers of the Cross appropriated the watchwords of the battle field, as fitting expressions to symbolize the work before them, it cannot be denied that the metaphor was not far-fetched, especially after Jogues, Lallemant, Brebeuf,Garreau, and Gamier, had fallen victims of Iroquois vengeance. The expedition started from Montreal the next spring, numbering thirty young Frenchmen, to -whom were added Fathers Leonard Garreau and Gabriel Dreuilletes,f and the Sioux delegation who had accompanied the traders. The eyes of the ever watchful and jealous Iroquois were upon them, and they had but little more than lost sight of their starting place, when they were waylaid by these ubiquitous foes. Father Garrau and several others were killed on the spot, the other French-

*Charlevoix, Carver, Pike.

f This emenent missionary had been stationed for several years among the Abenaquis of Sagadehoc, (Maine). Returning from thence to Canada, by order of his superiors, he was soon commissioned to go to Boston on an embassy, to bring about a comity of interest, both religious and secular. Canada at that time, was oppressed by the burdens of impolitic legislation, such as the banishment of Huguenots and onerous restrictions on the fur trade, and her Statesmen beheld with amazement the rising power of the Massachusetts colony, and felt a strong desire to negotiate a treaty with the Bostonians, for the purpose of working in harmony together for the conversion of the Indians, and also to keep them under a wholesome restraint by a concert of action between the English and French. In response to this overture, the prudential Bostonians, under the counsels of such jnen as Winslow, Dudley, Bradford, and Eliot, declined the proposal. Every

French Take Possession of the North- West. 11

men saved themselves by flight, leaving their canoes and merchandise in the hands of the victors. No cause for a quarrel had yet had place between the Iroquois and Sioux, and the latter were allowed to depart in peace tor their homes. It was not till 1665 that any further progress was made in Western exploration. At this time, Father Alouez reaching the Falls of St. Mary in September, coasted along the southern shore of Lake Superior to the great village of the Chippewas. Here he summoned a council of Indian nations, composed of delegations from all the tribes of the adjacent countries, among whom were representatives from the Illinois tribe, which is the first mention made of them. In Father Alouez, they beheld a champion of human rights, and to him they unbosomed their griefs by first informing him of their ancient grandeur, and then of their diminished numbers from hostile visitations of the Sioux on the West and the Iroquois from the East, who had extended their conquests over the prairies, even before the white man had come among them. Alouez addressed them with words of paternal care, offering them the Christian religion and promising them protection against the Iroquois.

Soon after this, missions were established at Green Bay, St. Marys and LaPoint, but the next notable event which took place was the grand gathering at St. Marys. Nicholas Perrot was the moving spirit of this convention. Thither he summoned Chiefs from no less than fourteen tribes to help celebrate the ceremonials, for a great deed was to be executed. Possession was to be taken of the country. Fifteen Frenchmen were present, among whom were Alouez and Joliet. A large wooden cross was consecrated, and elevated like a liberty pole of modern days. This done, around it knelt the priests, who sang, chanted, and prayed with suitable impressment, and went through the forms of taking possession of the country along the upper lakes and " Southward to the sea," a description of an unknown quantity, for up to that time no explorer had ventured very far into the interior. It was well known, however, that a great river coursed Southwardly through the country, but whither did it lead ? The hopeful theory was, that it opened into waters leadpossible token of respect was shown their distinguished guest. But these considerate representatives of the New American Idea, based on religious toleration, determined not to dilute the force of it by complicity with the elements in Canada, which were carrying weights in the exciting race for National grandeur between the two contestants. Moreover, the Iroquois had never raised the hatchet against Massachusetts, and if they had swept Canada with the fire brand and scalping knife^even as the sickel reaps the wheat field and the fire consumes the stubble, might it not be in the providence of God to punish them for their persecutions of the Huguenots? Therefore the disappointed Priest was dismissed with a refusal to grant his request, softened with courtly blandishments, but Withal, an air of independance, as much as to say : we are willing to trust to the providence of God for our future destim\ and you must also do the same.

12 Discovery of the Mississippi River.

ing to China, for this pleasing illusion, which had been the incentive to Columbus when he penetrated the secrets of the ocean, was still the golden dream of the Canadian adventurers. Pending these speculations, Father Marquette and Joliet obtained leave from Taylon, the Intendant of Canada, to start on an expedition for the purpose of bringing to light the mysteries of this river, the country it drained and whither it went.

Joliet was born in Canada and was educated for a priest, but was evidently better fitted by nature for an explorer than for a father confessor. But Marquette had not mistaken his calling. With peculiar fitness and grace his sacerdotal robes depended from his shoulders, belted around his waist by the inevitable chord of his priestly order. The love of God and man, and the deep adoration of the blessed Virgin who was his patron Saint, were ever visible in his face, which was cast in a mould of benevolence. The tender passions of his youth found vent in the pious devotions, which were his every-day routine, and which for nearly twenty years, had made him conspicuous among his Jesuit brethren in the vanguard of that army of pioneers. The two distinguished men started from St. Ignace, a small missionary station on the north shore of the Straits of Mackanaw. Two birch bark canoes, five men, a bag of corn meal, a string of dried beef and a blanket apiece, constituted their outfit, except the all-important appliances for religious devotions, such as beads and crosses, so necessary to the success of the enterprise. Their route lay along the north shore of Lake Michigan and the west bank of Green Bay. Father Alouez and Dablon had established the mission of St. Francis Xavier here, four years previously, and welcomed the adventurers on their laudable enterprise, with that hearty unction which can only be appreciated by men who have missions to perform, big with future destiny. Resuming their journey, they passed through the waters of Lake Winnebago, and thence accompanied by Indian guides, continued up the Fox river to the carrying place across to the Wisconsin river. Into this stream they launched their canoes, and for the first time clipped their paddles into the tributary waters of the Mississippi. Down its current they passed under cedar-crested precipices of solid rock, through forest glooms and across long stretches of sandy prairie. No marks of human life were apparent along these then silent grandeurs r/hich are now the admiration of tourists in the picturesque State of Wisconsin. On the 17th of June they emerged from the prairie copse which fringed the banks ot the Wisconsin, entered the forest shades which stud the Mississippi, and soon found themselves on its broad surface of moving waters, "with a joy I cannot express" says the devout Marquette.*

♦Marquette named it Conception Kiver, in honor of the day on which it was discovered.

First Interview with the Indians, 13

As they passed down its waters the scenery was changed. The banks were less precipitous than the bold headlands of the "Wisconsin, and the country looked more promising, as they obtained occasional views of it through the openings along its wooded margin. Herds of buffalo were seen grazing on the ample pasturage of the prairies, which must have struck the beholders as a waste of nature's gifts. In the neighborhood of the Des Moines river, they discovered human foot prints and hesitated not to follow them. Leaving their canoes in charge of five men, Marquette and Joliet took the Indian path, and after two leagues travel, came in sight of their villages. The two adventurers shouted to attract attention and four chiefs advanced to meet them with friendly tokens. They were of the Illinois tribe and hailed the advent of the two Frenchmen with delight. They feasted them with roast buffalo, fish and sagamite (hominy), and even honored them with the proffer of roast dog. The distinguished guests, however, declined this dainty repast, although they did not call in question the spirit of hospitality with which it was offered. After suitable prayers, benedictions and com-

Sliments, the Frenchmen took their leave, continuing their course own the river. Just above Alton is a high bluff of solid rock. On its time-worn surface, some artistic Indian, had in time past, exhibited his accomplishments by painting a monstrosity in human form.* Marquette was startled at the sight. But the departed spirit of the savage artist whose genius inspired it and immortalized his own memory did not come to his rescue. Therefore the pious Marquette was indignant at the eight of the impious device, and doubted not that the devil was its author. Fain would he have effaced the sacriligious picture, but it was beyond his reach. Painfully he ruminated on this evidence of demonology in the land, as the two bark canoes were borne along as if propelled by the forces of nature, till suddenly they found themselves in the breakers of the Missouri river, whose eddies whirled their light water craft like chaff in a miniature hurricane. This momentary danger diverted his thoughts from the unpleasant subject, and they proceeded along with extra caution. They passed the site of the present city of St. Louis, slumbering beneath the shades of a full-grown forest, with no premonition of her future destiny. The giddy heights of Grand Tower and the Ohio river were passed without meeting any more signs of life, but on the left bank below this river they again saw Indians. A friendly interview was secured by means of the calumet, and to their astonishment they found them

*No historic authority can be quoted for this assumption, but the theory is plausible enough to warrant its belief in absence of contravening testimony. Portions of this picture were visible as late as 1850, and might have been till this day had not the stone on which it was painted been quarried out for building purposes.

14 The Arkansas Reached,

dressed in broad-cloth and armed with guns.* No tidings of the sea coast could be obtained from them, and the two bands of voyagers parted company with an interchange of courtesies. Below the Ohio the monotony of scenery is chilling. Here the massed floods from the Western slopes of the Alleghenies and the Eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains roll along through a low, spongy soil, and with a power mighty and unremitting continue to wear away on one bank and replenish on the other, — on one side a primeval forest being undermined and falling by piecemeal into the river, while on the other a young nursery of cottonwood trees sprouting up, to occupy ground that but a few decades past was the bosom of the rolling deep, and a few centuries past a mature forest of giant trees. Through these glooms the adventurers passed down the river till the mouth of the Arkansas was reached. Here again they met Indians, savage as nature could make them. The hot-headed young men of the tribe hurled their war clubs at the new-comers, one of which flew over Marquette's head. The pious missionary prayed to the holy Virgin and presented the potent calumet. The old men, seeing the situation, call back and restrain the young attackers, and a friendly meeting is the result, for which Marquette, with his accustomed loyalty to the blessed Virgin, gives all the credit to her without reserving any for the calumet. From their new hosts they learned that the mouth of the Mississippi was but ten days' travel distant, but it was not deemed prudent to advance farther with the intense heat of July upon them, and the danger of being picked up by Spanish adventurers imminent. They had passed below the point where De Soto had discovered and crossed the Mississippi in 1541, which was one hundred and thirty-two years previous, but no trace of his work had remained, not even in tradition, f The object of their expedition had been fulfilled, which was to discover the great river and determine whether it emptied into the Gulf of Mexico or the Pacific Ocean. In the latter case the hopes of the past century would be realized, which was a Western passage to the land of the Grand Kahn. That the great river emptied into the Gulf of Mexico no doubt could now exist, but that the waters of the Missouri led to lakes or straits which opened into the Pacific, was still a pleasing illusion.

The voyagers, with thankful hearts, now determined to return, and on the 17th of July, after an affectionate leave-taking of their conciliated but rather doubtful friends, turned their canoes upstream, when came the tug of tugging, for 'twas no easy task to

*They probably were a roving band from the far distant borders of civilization on the Atlantic coast.

fSome late historians have stated that Spanish coats of mail, captured from De Soto, were found here by the French, but their authority is is not quoted.