Incidents of travel and adventure in the far West; with Col. Frémont's last expedition across the Rocky Mountains: including three months' residence in Utah, and a perilous trip across the great American desert to the Pacific

Front matter

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INCIDENTS OF

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Preface

In preparing this volume for publication, I have not followed any established system of arrangement.

The incidents are most of them transcripts from original letters, written in the familiar style of friendly correspondence.

The description of a journey from Great Salt Lake City to San Bernandino, is an exact copy from my journal, written after many days of wearisome travel.

The Mormon Episodes, I have rendered almost verbatim from personal relations by the parties themselves, and not from " hearsay."

While the Latter-day Saints publicly adopt every opportunity to openly avow and zealously propagate the System of Polygamy — i n direct opposition to the established and acknowledged code of morality, as practised by all civilized nations— I but exercise my prerogative in exposing some of its abuses, which I consider destructive to morality, female delicacy, and the sanctity of marriage.

Till PREFACE.

To prove the correctness and authenticity of my statements, with regard to the moral and ecclesiastical views of the Latter-day Saints, I have appended to the end of this volume, several discourses and addresses, some of which were delivered during my sojourn in Utah, by President Brigham Young and his apostles, and reported by G. D. Watt, Esq. of Great Salt Lake City.

For the rest, I submit myself to an indulgent public.

The Author.

Baltimore, Md., September, 1856.

Chapter I

First Introduction to Col. Fremont — Author's previous Opinion of Him — His Impulsive Resolution to accompany Col. Fremont, as Artist of the Exploring Expedition across the Rocky Mountains, 17

Chapter II

Preparations for the Journey — Daguerreotype Outfit — Scientific Knowledge required — Departure from New York — Alden's Preserved Food — Esteem of Col. Fremont's former Companions for him — Arrival at St. Louis — Steamboat F. X. Aubrey — Compagnons de Voyage — Arrival at Kansas, 20

Chapter III

Landing of Camp Equipage — Westport — First Camp Ground — Preparations — Extortion — Author and Companions — First Daguerreotypes — Rain Storm — Distribution of Arms and Ammunition — Engagement of Delaware Chiefs — Branding of Animals — California Saddle-Horses — Selects his Pony — Becomes his own Ostler — Description of Catching a Mule on the Mountains — Examination of Camp Equipage — Trial Start — First Camp, 23

Chapter IV

Shawnee Mission — Indisposition of Col. Fremont — He returns to Westport — The Expedition proceeds onward — Sunrise on the Prairies — Meeting of our Delawares — Pottawatomie trading Post — Author turns Carpenter — Expediency — A Kansas Blacksmith — " Astonishment " — Quarter Master — Persecution — Success against Conspiracy 29

Chapter V

Letter to W. H. Palmer— Col. Fremont's Return to St. Louis, and Increased Illness — Expedition under charge of Delawares — Camp Proceeds to "Smoky Hills" — Fort Riley— Solomon's Fork — First Buffalo — Barometers go on a Buffalo Hunt — Encamp-

1*

X CONTENTS.

ment on " Salt Creek "—Indian Method of Cooking Buffalo Meat— 011a Pudrida— Wasting of Provisions— Kinnikinick— Havana Segars— Indian Amusements— Camp Life — Hewers of Wood and Drawers of Water — Author's Opinion of Col. Fremont — He Nominates him for the Presidency, 34

Chapter VI

Kansas Territory — Arkansas and Kansas Rivers — Tributaries — Timber — River Bottoms — Varieties of Came — Cereals — Coal — Geological Formation — Adventure in the Woods — Wild Grapes — Indian Method of procuring them — Brandy vs. Poison — Return of the Author's Brandy-flask — He turns Washerwoman — Novel Mode of Mangling Clothes — Lost Mule — Beaver Trappers — Rifle Practice, .. ^ .... 4,0

Chapter VII

Delaware Medicine Man— Illness of Oapt. Wolff— Author turns Doctor — Empty Commi sarial — Expedition to Fort Riley for Fresh Supplies — Professor Espy's Theory of Rain — Indians on Kansas Prairies — Sleet and Snow Storm — Tent Blown Down- Approach of Cold Weather — " Pony Missing," 46

Chapter VIII

Author's First Buffalo Hunt — Pursuit — Perilous Situation— Mode of Attack by the Indians — Solitary and Alone — Pony killed for Food — An 111 Wind that blows Nobody any Good — Incredulity of Indian Hunters — Return to Camp — Prairies on Fire — Suffocating Smoke — Mr. Egloffstein on a Wolf Hunt— Fire Light and Moonlight — Camp surrounded by Fire — Dangerous Situation — Arrival of Colonel Fremont — Preparations to resume our Journey — Escape through the Blazing Element, . 50

Chapter IX

Walnut Creek — Necessity of strict discipline — Neglect of duty— Horses sto'.en— Cheyenne Indians — Thieves overtaken — Watchfulness of Col. Fremont — Immense herds of Buffalo — Buffalo hunt on a large scale — Buffalo chips — Prairie dogs, Owls, &c. — Indians in camp — Raw Antelope liver, 62

Chapter X

Cheyenne Indian Village — " Big Timber" — Daguerreotypes — Indian Papoose — Author is Suddenly Changed into a Magician — Silver and Brass Bracelets — Portrait of Indian Princess — " Presto, pass .'" — Moccasins — Cheyennes and Pawnees at War — Grand Scalp-dance — Col. Fremont a Spectator — Dinner with the Chief— Rosewood Carved Furniture not in Use — Duties of Indian Women — Employment of the Men, . 67

CHAPTER XL

Bent's Trading Post — Purchase Fresh Animals— Buffalo Robes— Immense Lodge — Fremont's Lodge— Doctor Ober — His Scientific Knowledge— Attachment of the Author to him -His Preparation to return to the States — Arkansas River— Giant Cotton Woods — Islands in the Arkansas — Bent's Fort destroyed by Indians— Preparations to cross the Mountains— First View of the Rocky Mountains — Bid adieu to Doctor Ober, 71

CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XII

Journey up the Arkansas — Bent's Fort — Huerfano River and Valley — Description of the Country — Huerfano Butte — Behind Camp — Daguerreotypes — Scientific Observations — Approach of Night — Trail Lost, and Encampment in the Woods — Buffalo Robes and Blankets — Col. Fremont sends to find us — Bear Hunt — Roubidoux Pass — Emotion of Col. Fremont when Looking upon the Scene of his Terrible Disaster on a Former Expedition — Found a Half Starved Mexican — Col. Fremont's Humanity — His Skill in Pistol Shooting, 75

Chapter XIII

Sand-hill Pass — San Louis Valley — Natural Deer-park— Smoked Venison — Last sight of Game — Rio Grande del Norte — Sarawatch — Cochotope Pass — First Snow in Mountains — Gunnison's Wagon Trail — Summit of Pass — Waters commence to flow towards the Pacific — Encampment — Immense Rugged Mountain — Impracticability of ascent by Mules — The Author ascends on Foot — Col. Fremont accompanies him — Daguerreotype Panorama from its Summit — Col. Fremont's Consideration for his Men —Sublimity — First View of Grand River — Reflections — Return to Camp, . . 80

Chapter XIV

Intense Cold — Author's First Journey on Foot — Immense Mountains of Snow — Escape of his Pony — Lose Sight of Companions — Arrival at top of the Mountain — Pony Recovered — Revolution of Feeling— Indian Gratitude Exemplified — Horse Steaks Fried in Tallow Candles — Blanc Mange — New Year's Day — Dangerous Ascent of a Mountain — Mules tumble Down — Animals Killed— Successful Attempt Next Day — Camp in four feet of Snow — Coldest Night — Sleep out in open Snow, . . 84

Chapter XV

Descent of Snow Mountains — Gun for a Walking-stick — Indian Tracks — Examination of Arms— Predicament of the Author — Lecture from Col. Fremont— Wild Horse Killep by Indians — Utah Indian Village — Encampment — Trade for Venison — Camp at Night Surrounded by armed Indians — They Demand Payment for the Horse Killed by the Indians — Col. Fremont's Justice — Indians want Gunpowder — Their Demand Refused — Massacre of the Party Threatened — Defiance — Pacification — Author Trades for a Horse— He Leaves his Colt's Revolver in Camp— Runaway Horse — Author Finds himself in a Sage Bush — Pistol Recovered — Trouble in Perspective — Exchanges Horses — Lame Horse — Author on Foot — Regrets that he was not Educated for a Horse- Breaker, 89

Chapter XVI

Grand River — Descent of Mounted Indians into Camp — Military Reception — Their demands — Trouble Expected — Excitement of the Author — Exhibition of Colt's Revolvers — Col. Fremont's Knowledge of Indian Character — The Great Captain in his Lodge — , Alarm of the Indians — Quadruple Guard— Departure of Indians — Vigilance the price of . Safety— Crossing of the Grand River — Horse Killed for Food — Review of Our Position — Impressive Scene — Cold Night — Mr. Fuller — Whites without Food — Beaver Shot — The Camp under Arms — False Alarm, 96

Xll CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII

Divide between Grand and Green River— Capt. Gunnison's Trail— Without Water — Formation of the Country— Castellated Bluffs — Green River Indians — Crossing of the Green River — Interview with Indians — Disappointment — Grass-seed — Manner of Preparing it for Food — Horse Purchased — Starving Condition of the Whites — Incident Exhibiting the Moral Dishonesty of one of the Men — Name not Published — Dinner on Porcupine — "Living Graves" — Tempestuous Night — Reflections on Guard — No Grass — Frozen Horse Liver — Blunted Feelings, 1U4

Chapter XVIII

Careless Packing of Animals — Mule Missing — Their value as Roadsters — Col. Fremont's Horse gives out — His Humanity Exemplified — Wolf killed for Food — Raven Shot — River Bottom — Original Forest — Large Camp Fires — Terrible Rain Storm — Disagreeable Bed — Darkness — Fires Extinguished — Value of Rain — Glorious Sunrise — Contrast with Home Comforts, Ill

Chapter XIX

Crippled Condition of the Party — Mr. Oliver Fuller — Mr. Egloffstien — Mr. Fuller gives out — His Inability to Proceed — Mr. Egloffstien and the Author continue on to Camp for Assistance — Col. Fremont sends Frank Dixon after him— Sorrow of the Camp- Mr. Fuller's Non-Appearance — Delawares sent out to Bring the Men in — Return of Frank Almost Frozen — Restoration of Mr. Fuller — Joy of the Men — Serious Thoughts — The Author Prepared to Remain on the Road — His Miraculous Escape, . 117

Chapter XX

Author nearly gives Out — Family Portraits — Fresh Courage — Dangerous Situation — Lonely Journey — Darkness— Snow Storm — Arrival at Camp — " Col. Fremont's Tent" — Interview with Col. Fremont — " Cache " — Men on Foot — Daguerreotype Appara- -. tus buried in the Snow — Sperm Candles — Men Mounted on Baggage Animals — Seveir River Beaver Dams — Modus Operandi of killing Horses for Food — Entrail' g 0U p — Hide and Bones Roasted — Influence of Privation on Human Passions, 122

Chapter XXI

Unsuccessful Attempt to Force a Passage in the Mountains — Delawares sent out to Explore — Their Return — Col. Fremont, Capt. Wolff, and Solomon in Council — ■ Unfavorable Report of Capt. Wolff— Col. Fremont's Determination — Astronomical Observations at Midnight — Col. Fremont's Correctness and Skill Illustrated — Tremendous Mountains of Snow — Successful Ascent o'n Foot, without Shoes or Moccasins — Tribute to the Genius Of Fremont — Col. Fremont's Lodge at Meal-Time — Mr. Oliver Fuller's Death — Sorrow of his Companions — His Last Hours — His Virtues — Indian Camp — Arrival at Parowan — Burial of Mr. Fuller — Author's Physical Condition — Mormon Sympathies — Mr. Heap and his Wives — Mormon Hospitality, . 128

Chapter XXII

Sojourn at Parowan — Colonel Fremont refits his Expedition — Illness of the Author — His Inability to Proceed— Takes Leave of Col. Fremont — Mr. Egloffstien and the Author leave to go to Great Salt Lake City in a Wagon — Col. Fremont's Departure —

CONTENTS. XI II

Mormons for Conference— Arrival at Salt Lake City— Massacre of Capt. Gunnison— Interview with Lieut. Beciwith— Mr. Egloflfetien appointed Topographical Engineer—Painting Materials— Kinkead and Livingston— Brigham Young— Governor's Residence— Apology for Mormonism among the Masses— Their previous Ignorance of the Practice of Polygamy, 139

Chapter XXIII

Governor Brigham Young— Author's Views on Polygamy— Baptismal Ceremony— Doctrines and Covenants, 14(j

Chapter XXIV

Grand Ball at Salt Lake City— Etiquette— Culinary Preparations— Cost of Entertainment—Author opens the Ball with one of the Wives of the Governor— Beautiful Women— Waltzing and Polkas Prohibited— Mrs. Wheelock— The " Three Graces"— Extraordinary Cotillion— Mormon Wedding— Spiritual Wives— Favorable Impression of the Public Social Life o f the Mormons, .... ... 155

Chapter XXV

"Golightly"— His Occupation and Character— Author Patronizes Him— Mrs. Goliglitly —She thinks Shakspeare did not understand the Passions of Men— "Oh ! Frailty, thy Name is Man 1" — Affecting Incident, . ic,o

Chapter XXVI

Extraordinary Abuses of the Spiritual Wife System— Fanny Littlemore— The Writer paints her Port rait— Her early Life— Attempt by her Parents to force her to marry her Uncle at Nauvoo— Her Escape to St. Louis — She writes to her Lover— Terry Littlemore —Marriage— Extraordinary Letter— Fanny's Mother exchanges Husbands with her Aunt— Her Father also exchanges Wives with her Uncle— Fanny's journey to Salt Lake— Terry Littlemore becomes a Mormon— Fanny opposed to Mormonism— Her two Sisters become spiritual Wives of a distinguished Mormon— She meets her Father and Mother in Salt Lake— The Writer becomes acquainted with her Mother and Uncle— His Journey to Parowan with them— Verification, 166

Chapter XXVII

Arrival of the California Mail— Murder of Mr. Lamphere by Indians on Santa Clara— Hoi

Springs— Singular Phenomenon — Hot and Cold Springs— Mica — Sulphur — Plumbago

Rock Salt— Death of Willard B. Richards— Heber C. KembaU— Welsh Colony— Lieut. Beckwith's Departure for California, 175

Chapter XXVIII

Departure from Great Salt Lake City— Equipments for the Journey— Author Paints Portraits of Gov. Young and Apostles— His Restoration to Health— Snow Storm- Cotton Wood Settlement— Willow Creek— Lehigh— Utah Lake— Snow Storm— Pleasant Grove — Provost — Payson, jgg

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIX

Join Governor Young and Parley Pratt — Hospitality of the Mormons — Apostle Benson — Petetnit — Nephi — Wakara (Indian Chief) — Wakara's Camp Ground — Brigham Young's Wife — Long Caravan — Arrival at Wakara's Camp — His Refusal to meet the Governor —Treaty of Peace not Concluded— Presents of Cattle, etc., to Wakara — Grand Council of Indians and Mormons — Speech of an Old Chief — Address of a " San Pete Chief" — Wakara Refuses to Speak — He Dissolves the Council — Reassembling of the Council — Brigham Young's Address — Speech of "Wakara" — Peace Proclaimed — Calumet Smoked — Indian Capture of Children — Brigham Young's Residence, . . 185

Chapter XXX

Portrait of Wakara — Indian chiefs, to accompany the Expedition to Harmony City — Seveir River— Swollen Waters — Wagons ferried over— Col. Fremont — Fillmore City — Massacre ofCapt. Gunnison — Parowan Indians — Kanosh— Capt. Morris — His conduct justified — Author trades for a Horse — Extraordinary Phenomenon of Insects, 195

Chapter XXXI

Corn Creek — Meadow Creek — Exploration of Vinegar Lake — Mephitic Gas — Sulphuric Acid — Sulphur — Alum — Volcanic Appearance of the Country — Beaver River Valley — Lieut. Beale's Pass into the Valley of the Parowan — Col. Fremont's Pass in the same Valley — Author crosses his own Trail made three Months before — His Feelings on the Occasion — Red Creek Canon — Hieroglyphics — Granite Rocks — Remains of a Town — Arrival at Parowan — Brigham Young — Old Acquaintances, 202

Chapter XXXII

Description of Parowan — Cedar City — Fish Lake — Iron Ore — Bituminous Coal — Future Destiny of Cedar City — Henry Lunt — Affecting Incident — Portrait of a dead Child — A Mother's Gratitude — Harmony City — Parley Pratt — Piede Indians — Personal Privations of Mormons — Bid Adieu to Gov. Young — Letter of Introduction to President of San Bernandino 209

Chapter XXXIII

On the Road to California — Iron Springs— Meadow Springs— Entrance to Las Vegas de Santa Clara — Prairie Flowers — Rim of the Basin— Santa Clara River — Difficulty of Crossing with Wagons — Wounded Indian — Serpentine Course of the River — Waterfall —Natural Cave, 215

Chapter XXXIV

Romantic Pass— Rio Virgin Valley— Sterile County— River Bottoms— Acacia Groves — Abrupt Descent — Formation of the Country — Pah Utahs — Indian Bow and Arrows — Orange color Berries — Effect on the System — Digger Indians — Baptized into Mormon Faith — Steep descent — Divide between Rio Virgin and Muddy Rivers — Difficult travelling—Muddy River described— Author lends his Horse— Approach to the " Great Desert," 220

CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XXXV

Preparations to Cross the Jornada — Fifty-five Miles without Water or Grass — Deserted Wagons on the Road — Dead Oxen and Mules — Emigrant Part}' — Clouds of Dust — Oasis — Delicious Water — Extraordinary Fresh Water Buoyant Spring — Impossibility for a Man to sink in it — Never before Described — Another Jornada of Forty Miles — Col. Reese's Train— Detention — Reese Cut off— Snow-Capped Mountains — Bad Roads — Mineral Springs — My Mule in Harness'— Animals giving out, .... 228

Chapter XXXVI

Peg-leg Smith — Gold Explorers — Enter upon the Desert — Road strewn with Dead Oxen — Poisoned Atmosphere — Deserted Wagons and Horses — Howling Wilderness — Excessive Heat — Bitter Springs — Polluted by Dead Animals — Bunch Grass — Reflections — Mohahve River — Deserts Surmounted — Horses give Out — On Foot — Dig for Water in the Sand — Pleasant Weather — Snowy Mountains — Crossing of the Mohahve River — Agave Americana — Cajon pass Sierra Nevada — Descent into the Valley of San Bernandino — Arrival at San Bernandino — Variations of the Compass, . 234

Chapter XXXVII

Journey to Los Angeles — Catholic Missions — Fields of Mustard — California Ladles — Morals of the People — Gamblers — Description of a " Hell " — Climate of Los Angeles — Delicious Fruit — California Wine — Don Manuel Domingues — RanchO — Menada — Breaking a Horse — Portraits of Domingues — Salt Lake— Asphaltum Lake — Hot Springs of San Juan de Campestrano — Analysis — Geological Examination — Remains of a Mastodon- — Don Pio Pico — Ground Squirrels — Strychnine — Brothers Labatt — Their Example worthy to be Imitated, 242

SPIRITUAL WIFE SYSTEM.

A Revelation on the Patriarchal order of Matrimony, or Plurality of Wives. Given to Joseph Smith, the Seer, in Nauvoo, July 12th, 1843, 251

CELESTIAL MARRIAGE.

A Discourse delivered in the Tabernacle, Great Salt Lake City, .... 262

INDIAN HOSTILITIES AND TREACHERY.

Consequences of Obedience and Disobedience — Policy towards the Indians — Vigilance. An Address delivered at the Tabernacle, Great Salt Lake City, by Brigham Young, 289

USE AND ABUSE OF BLESSINGS.

An Address delivered by Brigham Young, at the Tabernacle, Great Salt Lake City, 311

MORMONISM.

A Discourse delivered by Parley P. Pratt, in the Tabernacle, Great Salt Lake City, 829

LEGITIMACY AND ILLEGITIMACY.

A Sermon delivered at the General Conference, Tabernacle, Great Salt Lake City, 354

CARVALHO'S TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES.

Chapter I

First Introduction to CoL. Fremont — Author's previous Opinion of Him — His Impulsive Resolution to accompany Col. Fremont, as Artist of the Exploring Expedition across the Rocky Mountains.

On the 22d August, 1853, after a short interview with Col. J. C. Fremont, I accepted his invitation to accompany him as artist of an Exploring Expedition across the Rocky Mountains. A half hour previously, if anybody had suggested to me, the probability of my undertaking an overland journey to California, even over the emigrant route, I should have replied there were no inducements sufficiently powerful to have tempted me. Yet, in this instance, I impulsively, without even a consultation with my family, passed my word to join an exploring party, under command of Col. Fremont, over a hitherto untrodden country, in an elevated region, with the full expectation of being exposed to all the inclemencies of an arctic winter. I know of no other man to whom I would have trusted my life, under similar circumstances.

Col. Fremont's former extraordinary explorations, his astronomical and geographical contributions to the useful sciences, and his successful pursuit of them under difficulties, had deeply interested me, and aided in forming for him, in my mind, the beau ideal of all that was chivalrous and noble.

His conquest of California, appointment as Governor by Commodore Stockton, the jealousy and persecution by General Kearney for not acknowledging him instead of Commodore Stockton as commander-in-chief, his court-martial and subsequent finding of the court, are matters of American history, and they reflect no dishonor on the individual who was a distinguished examample of the ingratitude of republics.

The recognition of his claims on the American public by the citizens of Charleston, S. C, who presented him with an elegant sword and golden scabbard, satisfied me that I had formed no incorrect estimate of his character, and made me feel an instinctive pride that I, too, drew my first breath on the same soil that gave birth to heroes and statesmen.

Entertaining these feelings, the dangers and perils of the journey, which Col. Fremont pointed out to me, were entirely obscured by the pleasure I anticipated in accompanying him, and adding my limited skill to facilitate him in the realization of one of the objects of the expedition — which was to obtain an exact description of the face of the country over which we were to travel.

The party consisted of twenty-two persons ; among them were ten Delaware chiefs ; and two Mexicans. The officers were : Mr. Egloffstein, topographical en-

HEMBEKS OF THE EXPEDITION. 10

neer ; Mr. Strobel, assistant ; Mr. Oliver Fuller, assistant engineer ; Mr. S. N. Carvalho, artist and daguerreotypist ; Mr. W. H. Palmer, passenger.

The expedition was fitted out, I think, at the individual expense of Col. Fremont.

CHAPTER H.

Preparations for the Journey — Daguerreotype Outfit — Scientific Knowledge required — Departure from New York — Alden's Preserved Food — Esteem of Col. Fremont's former Companions for him — Arrival at St. Louis — Steamboat F. X. Aubrey — Compagnons de Voyage — Arrival at Kansas.

The preparations for my journey occupied about ten days, during which time I purchased all the necessary materials for making a panorama of the country, by daguerreotype process, over which we had to pass.

To make daguerreotypes in the open air, in a temperature varying from freezing point to thirty degrees below zero, requires different manipulation from the processes by which pictures are made in a warm room. My professional friends were all of the opinion that the elements would be against my success. Buffing and coating plates, and mercurializing them, on the summit of the Rocky Mountains, standing at times up to one's middle in snow, with no covering above save the arched vault of heaven, seemed to our city friends one of the impossibilities — knowing as they did that iodine will not give out its fumes except at a temperature of 70° to 80° Fahrenheit. I shall not appear egotistical if I say that I encountered many difficulties, but I was well prepared to meet them by having previously acquired a scientific and practical knowledge of the chemicals I used, as well as of the theory of light : a firm determination to sue-

DAGUERREOTYPES ON THE MOUNTAINS. 21

ceed also aided me in producing results which, to my knowledge, have never been accomplished under similar circumstances.

While suffering from frozen feet and hands, without food for twenty-four hours, travelling on foot over mountains of snow, I have stopped on the trail, made pictures of the country, re-packed my materials, and found myself frequently with my friend Egloffstien, who generally remained with me to make barometrical observations, and a muleteer, some five or six miles behind camp, which was only reached with great expense of bodily as well as mental suffering. The great secret, however, of my untiring perseverance and continued success, was that my honor was pledged to Col. Fremont to perform certain duties, and I would rather have died than not have redeemed it. I made pictures up to the very day Col. Fremont found it necessary to bury the whole baggage of the camp, including the daguerreotype apparatus. He has since told me that my success, under the frequent occurrence of what he considered almost insuperable difficulties, merited his unqualified approbation.

I left New York on the 5th September, 1853, having in charge the daguerreotype apparatus, painting materials, and half a dozen cases of Alden's preserved coffee, eggs, cocoa, cream, and milk, which he sent out for the purpose of testing their qualities. There was in them sufficient nourishment to have sustained twenty men for a month. I purchased a ticket by the Illinois River to St. Louis, but the water was so low in the river that it wa3 deemed advisable to cross over to Alton by stage, as I was afraid of being detained. The cases of instruments were very heavy, and the proprietor of the stage refused to take tliein-; it being night, I remonstrated with him, telling him of the importance that they should arrive at St. Louis; he peremptorily refused to take them. I, of course, had to succumb, and remarked inadvertently how disappointed Col. Fremont would be in not receiving them. At the mention of Col. Fremont's name, he asked me if those cases were Fremont's ? I told him, yes. He sang out for his boy to harness up an extra team of horses, and stow away the boxes. " I will put them through for Fremont, without a cent expense. I was with him on one of his expeditions, and a nobler specimen of mankind does not live about these parts." I was put through in good time, but he would not receive a cent for my passage, or freight of the boxes, which together would have amounted to eight dollars.

I arrived at St. Louis at twelve o'clock. Col. Fremont was at Col. Brant's house, where I immediately called. The Colonel was very glad to see me ; he had telegraphed several times, and I had been anxiously expected. We left that same afternoon in the steamer F. X. Aubrey, for Kansas. On board, I found Mr. EglofTstien, the topographical engineer, Mr. Oliver Fuller, and Mr. Bomar, the photographist. Our journey was somewhat protracted by the shallowness of the water in the river, and we did not arrive at Kansas until the 14th.

ARRIVAL AT KANSAS. 23

Chapter III

Landing of Camp Equipage — Westport — First Camp Ground — Preparations — Extortion — Author and Companions — First Daguerreotypes — Rain Storm — Distribution of Anns and Ammunition — Engagement of Delaware Chiefs— Branding of Animals — California Saddle-Horses — Selects his Pony — Becomes his own Ostler — Description of Catching a Mule on the Mountains — Examination of Camp Equipage — Trial Start — First Camp.

When we landed, we met Mr. Palmer and several of the men who were to accompany the Expedition as muleteers, etc. The equipage of the camp that had been previously shipped from St. Louis, had arrived safely. As soon as our baggage was landed, it, together with the rest of the material, was transported by wagons to camp near Westport, a few miles in the interior.

Our tents were raised, and active preparation for our journey was immediately commenced. Several droves of mules came in next day from which Col. Fremont selected a few. Very near two prices were exacted by the owners ; it being necessary that we should proceed without delay, we were obliged to submit to extortion.

Mr. Egloffstien, Mr. Bomar and myself, found comfortable quarters at a hotel where we put up, in order to be ready for the journey, our various apparatus.

Mr. Bomar, proposed to make photographs by the wax process, and several days were consumed in preparing the paper, etc. I was convinced that photographs could not be made by that process as quickly as the occasion required, and told Col. Fremont to have one made from the window of our room, to find out exactly the time. The preparations not being entirely completed, a picture could not be made that day ; but on the next, when we were all in camp, Col. Fremont requested that daguerreotypes and photographs should be made. In half an hour from the time the word was given, my daguerreotype was made ; but the photograph could not be seen until next day, as it had to remain in water all night, which was absolutely necessary to develop it. Query, where was water to be had on the mountains, with a temperature of 20° below zero ? To be certain of a result, even if water could be procured, it was necessary by his process, to wait twelve hours, consequently, every time a picture was to be made, the camp must be delayed twelve hours. Col. Fremont finding that he could not see immediate impressions, concluded not to incur the trouble and expense of transporting the apparatus, left it at Westport, together with the photographer. The' whole dependence was now on me. Col. Fremont told me if I had the slightest doubts of succeeding, it were better to say so now, and he would cancel the agreement on my part, and pay me for my time, etc.

On the night of the 20th, all hands slept in camp, a heavy rain-storm drenched us completely, giving to the party an introduction to a life on the prairies. The necessity of India-rubber blankets became evident, and I was dispatched to Westport to procure them. There were none to be had. I sent a man to Independence to purchase two dozen ; he travelled thirty miles that night, and by ten next morning I had them in camp. They were the most useful articles we had with us ; we

ENGAGEMENT OF DEL A WAKES. 25