History of California, from its discovery to the present time: comprising also a full description of its climate, surface, soil, rivers, towns ... agriculture, commerce, mines, mining, &c., with a journal of the voyage from New York, via Nicaragua, to San Francisco, and back, via Panama ...

Front matter

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0^" . » ^ oo

X c v^o

Preface

The State of California has attained, and will long occupy, a prominent place in the public mind. Not only its great product of gold and other mineral wealth, but the adaptation of its »soil and climate to the pursuits of agriculture, the proper seasons and best course of husbandry for the successful cultivation of the various crops, its influence as an independent state on the future of the American Union, its geographical position, the extent, character and variety, of its resources, &c., are all subjects of special and increasing interest to large numbers in the older states.

Beyond its own limits, comparatively little has been known of the particular history of its gold mines and mining grounds ; of the toils, perils and success, of its miners ; of their modes and operations of mining, and of the vast amount of capital which is invested in that adventurous business. Nor has a description of the magic city of San Francisco, as it now exists, — of its moral, social and commercial state, — before been written ; and the public, at a distance from the scene, have been enabled to view it only in a faint and glimmering light.

The opportunities of the author to gain full and particular information on all those subjects have been so favorable as to induce the compilation and publication of this volume, in the A*

VI PREFACE.

belief that the statements of flicts here presented will be found reliable and valuable to all who are seeking for information respecting them.

In April, 1853, the author proceeded to California, as the commercial agent of several extensive mercantile houses in New York city. In the discharge of the duties of his commission, he visited the principal cities and villages of the state, and communicated with persons of the diff<^rent professions, trades and occupations. He also traversed various parts of the mining regions, and sojourned with the miners, among their valleys and mountains. During a continuance of several months in the coiyitry, in travel and research, he improved every opportunity to collect reliable information, from intelligent citizens and authentic records in the public offices, respecting all the important interests of the state, and particularly of its mining, commercial and agricultural interests. At several of the old missions he met well-informed individuals, who had long resided in the country, from whom he learned many interesting facts relating to its primitive history, and the customs and institutions of its early inhabitants.

Some of these facts have before been made public ; but others, equally valuable, have not ; and daily observation produced the conviction, that, although much has been written about California, but little, comparatively, has yet appeared that is of much value, respecting that vast region, on those subjects about which the public generally are most solicitous for information. This consideration has induced the author to arrange his notes of the country, which were taken on the spot, into a history of the state ; and, in the execution of this task, especial prominence has been given to its agriculture and commerce, to the gold region, and to the city of San Francisco.

PREFACE. VII

In speaking of the mining districts, the mines and miners, those terms, names and phrases, are used, which are current among the miners at the mines, — the only design being to present the whole view as it would there appear to the common observer.

A journal, or diary, is added, as the most effectual method of conveying a correct idea of a voyage to California. It presents the reader with the daily incidents which occurred on this particular voyage, and a faithful recital of what was seen, suffered and enjoyed. A succession of events, in many respects similar, would, doubtless, form the experience of any traveller by sea to the land of gold.

This volume is submitted, in the belief that it will be found a faithful record ; and in the hope that it may prove a useful aid to the reader in forming a just judgment of the country.

Little Falls, N. Y., May 1, 1854.

Chapter I

Discovery and First Settlement of Upper California, Roman Catholic Missions, National Farms, Presiciios, Government, Laws and Judiciary, Indians, Domestic Customs and Institutions, &c. ; — embracing the period from the discovery of the country, in 1542, to the commencement of hostilities between the United States and Mexico, in May, 184G, . . p. 1

Chapter II

Brief Statement of the principal Causes of the War between the United States and Mexico, Conquest of Upper California, Provisional Government, Irregular Proceedings at San Francisco, Tcri-itorial Laws and Judiciary ; — embracing the period between the commencement of hostilities, in May, 18-40, and the organization of the State Government, in Dec., 1850, 37

Chapter III

Adoption of the State Constitution, Admission into the Union, Boundaries, Civil and Political Divisions, Cities, Rivers, Mountains, Population, Climate, Soil, Agriculture, Resources, Mines, Minerals, Face of the Country, &c. ; — embracing the time between the organization of the State Government and the year 1854, 47

X CONTENTS.

Part Third. Gold Mines, Mining, And Miners

CHAPTER I.

A Description of the several kinds of " Diggings," or Mines ; " Prospecting " for Placers and " IMining Claims ;" Different Methods of" AVashiug the Dirt" and collecting the Gold ; Names, Shape and Operation of the Machines, Quartz Mills, Sluices, Flumes, and other fixtures used in Mining ; Canals, Aqueducts, Appearance of the Mining Region, . 184

CHAPTER II.

Number, Customs, Perils, Success and Prospects of the Miners, Miners' Courts, Capital invested in the different kinds of Mining, .... 227

PART FOURTH. JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, &c

CHAPTER I.

Voyage from New York to San Juan-del-Norte, The Ship, Its Government, Sea Phrases, Passengers, Incidents, Ocean Views, San Domingo, . 242

CONTENTS. Xi

CHAPTEIi II.

San .Tuan-del-Norte, River and Lake Nicaragua, Mule Ride, Scenery Climate, Inhabitants, Delays, Extortions, Government and Religion of Nicaraguans, 270

Chapter I

Discovery and First Settlement of Upper California, Roman Catholic Missions, Presidios, National Farms, Government, Laws and Judiciary, Indians, Domestic Institutions and Customs, &c. ; — embracing the period from the discovery of the country in 1542, to the commencement of hostilities between the United States and Mexico, in May, 1846.

Discovery, &c. — The state comprises about one third of the territory formerly known as "Upper California;" and, hence, its primitive history is identical with the history of that country.

There is a diversity of statement, among Spanish historians, respecting the time of the discovery of this vast region, and the name of its discoverer. According to Navarelte^ who compiled a digest of the early voyages to the coast of California, and made elaborate researches among the Spanish

* A derivative from two Spanish words, caliente fornalla, signifying Hot furnace or oven. • .

2 HISTOllY OF CALIFORNIA.

archives, the '' Upper Country " Avas discovered by the Spanish navigator, Juan Rodriguez Cobrillo, in the year 1542, ^vho died, during the voyage, in January, 1543 ; after which the coast ^vas fui^lher explored by his pilot, Bartolome Ferrelo.

The expedition, commanded by Cobrillo, -was sent out by Don Antonio do Mendoza, then viceroy of New Spain, and consisted of two vessels, the San Salvador and La Victoria. They cleared from the port of Nevidad, in Mexico, on or about the 2Tth day of June, in the year 1542, and, in the month of October following, made the port now known as San Diego, in Upper California. At the time of his death, Cobrillo had explored the coast to some distance north of the bay of San Francisco ; but he did not discover the ' ' Gateway of Gold."

No sooner was the crown of Spain informed of the achievement of her adventurous navigator, than she waved her sceptre over the new land, and adopted measures to confirm her sovereignty. It had long been her policy, on the discovery of new and uncolonized territory in any part of the world, to offer to her subjects inducements, which, in those days, were deemed princely, to emigrate thither, and establish farms, ports and towns.

One of her plans was to grant four or more square leagues of land, in the newly-discovered country, to any subject who would covenant, with surety, that, within a fixed time, the granted territory should contain at least thirty families, each having a house and a certain number of cattle, horses, sheep, hogs and fowls, and that the grantee would provide a priest, a small church, and certain ornaments for divine worship. Another mode was. the foundation of Roman Catholic Missions in the country, ostensibly to civilize and

MISSIONS. — EARLY SETTLEMENTS. 8

christianize the natives; and, for this purpose, the crown endowed the establishment with lands, goods and certain munitions for defence.

Missions. — For a long series of years, applications for grants of these lands were required to be made directly to the crown ; but California was so remote, and communication with the government so tedious, that settlements proceeded but slowly, until the year 1754, when power was, conferred on the viceroys of New Spain to grant lands and establish missions in the Spanish territories in North Amc^rica. Tliat Royal Order gave a new impulse to emigration. California became more thoroughly explored ; 'wealthy individuals and companies in New Spain took government grants of land, and settled on them the required number of qualified heads of families.

The Holy Fathers of the Roman church, who had been long toiling in Lower California, began to entertain a feeling of pious love for the "poor Indian" of the Upper Country, and missions were founded, in quick succession, from San Diego at the south, to San Raphael at the north. The first mission was at the former place, and was founded in the year 1769.

Previous to the year 1833, when the act of the Mexican Congress was passed which secularized those foundations, twenty-one had been established, as follows, viz. : San Diego, San Carlos, San Gabriel, San Solidad, San Luis-Obispo, San Antonio, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Clara, San Francisco, Santa Buenaventura, Santa Barbara, La Purissima, Conception, San Fernando, San Miguel, San Juan Baptista, Santa Cruz, San Jose, San Luis Ray, San Raphael and Santa Inez. At the time of that enactment, the Missions, though not in their highest prosperity, contained a

4 niSTORY OF CALIFORNIA.

population of about 20.000. consisting of priests, soldiers, Indians, Mexicans and native Californians.

The crown granted lands also to those soldiers of the missions who, after a prescribed term of service, were deemed meritorious, and desired to settle in the country. These soldiers were encouraged to marry Indian wives ; and their settlements, in several instances, became Pueblos (towns), independent of the missions.

Los Ano-elos, San Jose and Branciforte are such towns. Monterey is also an old, but not an independent town ; and it was, for a time, regarded as the capital of California.

In the year 1833, these towns contained about 4000 inhabitants ; and, perhaps, 2000 other settlers were scattered over the country. Nearly all these private grants and missions were on the western side of the coast-range of mountains, in the most fertile valleys, and, generally, on or near streams of water.

/^he structures and defences of the several missions were built on the same general plan, but were not equally large, strong, or numerous ; and more taste was displayed in the arrangements of some than of others ; several of them had no walls of defence. A description of one Avill suiffice.

Mission of San Francisco.* — In its palmy days this place might have been appropriately called a walled city in miniature. It is situated about four miles from the city of San Francisco, on a level fertile plain, and surrounded by high hills. It was founded in the year 1779, and dedi cated to Father San Francisco, as its patron saint ; in honor of whom the most spacious bay on the Pacific coast is named. The grounds have been long neglected, and many

♦ St. Francis.

MISSION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 5

of the buildings have crumbled to ruins. The walls, which enclose about an acre, are composed of unburned bricks, made of clay and straw, called adobes.^ These bricks are about two feet long, one foot wide, and three inches thick. The walls are three feet thick and ten feet high ; and the enclosure is quadrangular. A continuous roof extends from the top of the wall, on the interior, around the four sides, and the space under it is partitioned into a great number of rooms, which are occupied as dwelling apartments, barns, stables, hay-bays, granaries, store-rooms, dormitories, kitchens, and all the other necessary repositories of an extensive farm.

(^$he church, always the principal object of attraction, occupies one corner of the square, and is a gray, old relic, suggestive of the days of romance and monastic rule. It is about one hundred feet long, by twenty-five feet wide, and twenty feet high, having no dome or cupola. The front is adorned with four pillars, resting against the main wall, and is plastered and whitewashed. In an aperture left in the gable hang three bells, differing in size and figure. These bells have undoubtedly been baptized; but the Padre\ did not inform his visitors after which of the apostles they were named. Our call at the mission was made at mid-day, and terminated before evening, so that we did not hear their matin or vesper chime; but, as they hung, silent and solemn in the rust of years, under the heavily tiled and sinking roof, they were suggestive of those earlier and more quiet days of ecclesiastic rule, when their morning and evening peal summoned a long line of simple Indians to a worship, which they understood, spiritually, no more than did the

* Bricks not yet baked. f Father. »

1^

G HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA.

dumb images around tlie altar. The interior of this church was evidently designed for a magnificent display. Its enti^ance was through a door, opening into an ante-room, in which were reposing, on broken, leaning shelves, many sacred images, and the priestly robes of departed ecclesiastics. On one shelf lay a large collection of old volumes, which had probably reposed, undisturbed for years, until the sacrilegious fingers of popish styled "heretics" brushed the cobwebs from their lids. The floor is covered with ancient carpeting of many different figures and colors. On each side of the altar, which rests under an ancient gilded canopy, are images of the apostles as large as life, and on it, supporting long waxen candles, stood four candlesticks which resembled silver ware. A taper was glimmering between the latter, which, it was said, is the last of a line of religious lights^ expending back to the foundation of the mission. Around the unplastered walls are hung unskilfully-executed pictures of Bible scenes and characters ; and in deep niches stand roughly-carved images. Around the sides of the church are arranged numerous mirrors ; and the mellow rays of the sun, thrown into the chancel, through two small windows, fall on the mirrors and the gilded work with good effect. Those, with the burning candles, and the priests and their attendants, decked in white robes and showy canonicals, must have presented a scene well adapted to excite the wonder and the fear of simple, timorous, Indians, who here statedly met, were catechized, and reprimanded, and who here worshipped during a long series of years.

The Indians who were attached to the mission lived outside the walls, in huts, either standing in a single line or arranged in the form of a hollow square.

Near the walled enclosure are other large adobe houses.

GOVERNMENT OP THE MISSIONS. 7

constituting a scliool-room, and soldiers' quarters ; for, in the early period of their history, each mission was entitled to a guard of two hundred and fifty soldiers — though the number provided seldom exceeded five or six. These were for its defence against such hostile Indians as could neither be persuaded nor compelled to submit to the care and protection of the mission.

Each mission was governed by a Franciscan Friar,* called, originally, the Pi^esidente^-\ who was for a time its civil as well as religious ruler, and through whom passed all communications with the supreme government. At a later period he was deprived of all political power, and styled a Prefect.X

To each mission was given a tract of land, ten or fifteen miles square, consisting of valley and upland, and selected as well for grazing as for tillage. The Indians were taught, and, if necessary, forced to work on these lands; and, in return, they received a maintenance, and instruction in a few of the ceremonies of the Roman church. These farms were brought under a moderately good state of cultivation ; large vineyards and orchards were planted; wheat, rye, barley, oats, corn and other vegetables, were grovm; and vast herds of cattle, horses, sheep, goats and hogs, were raised. Some of the missions owned each from seven thousand to one hundred thousand head of horned cattle. They were, however, of comparatively little value, there being no demand for them, and were permitted to range, unrestrained, over the vast, unenclosed domains.

The principal trade was with Chili, Peru and Mexico ; and the exports consisted of hides, tallow, and occasionally

* Brother. f Glovernor. X Prefecto, a civil magistrate.

some erain, wine, olives and raisins. About once or twice a year a vessel would cast anchor in the solitary harbor of San Diego, Monterey, or San Francisco, and take in a cargo of those, in exchange for such goods as were used in the country.

The land, in those days, was of little value, compared with cattle, horses, kc. A man's wealth was determined by the number of his flocks and herds. " Metes and bounds," also, were unimportant.

Presidios and Castillos. — When the towns and settlements had considerably multiplied in number and population, the crown conceived the idea of aiding her treasury from her colonies in California, and, as a preparatory step, divided the upper territory into four presidencies or military districts, over each of which was appointed a Cominandarite.^ His residence was called the Presidio, -f and on him was conferred all civil and military jurisdiction in his district. The presidencies were San Francisco, Monterey, Santa Barbara and San Diego. The presidios were built on the plan of the missions, having an equal military force, with cannon, small arms and other supplies. To each was allotted a farm, called a Rancho,X but it was smaller than those belonging to the missions, and was very unskilfully cultivated by the soldiers and the Indian assistants. Upon these flirms were kept the cattle and grain collected as revenue by the government.

In the vicinity of each presidio was built a Castillo or fort. The}^ were intended for harbor defences, and a protection to the presidios and missions against the attacks of hostile Indians. These defences were all built of stone,

* Commander. t -A- garrison of soldiers.

X Rancho, a mess-room ; a set of persons who eat and drink together ; a farm.

PRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCO. 9

after one general model, being quadrangular, and situated on a high hill, if such a position could be found. Each one mounted four or five cannon of small calibre, and was manned by six or eight poorly paid and badly treated soldiers, who, of course, permitted everything to go to ruin.

The visitor to the presidio of San Francisco, and the adjacent fort, will see comparatively little of their original outline, arrangement, or appearance. The former is situated about four miles west from San Francisco, and two miles north from the mission. The fort stands on an eminence by the sea-shore, frowning darkly over the waters of the Golden gate.

The presidio is on a plain, surrounded by rising grounds, which are always covered with a mantle of green grass. No tree or shrub has ever diversified the scene around it. The old adobe buildings, and a portion of the walls, are there ; but the hand of modern refinement has swept away the dust and dilapidation which, in the mind of the traveller, throw around these ancient structures their highest charm. The castle of the Mexican commandante and the fort are now occupied by American troops ; and neat, whitewashed, picket fences supply the place of a large part of the old walls. The presidio is quadrangular, each side being in length about one hundred yards. At each angle, on the outside, was formerly a hollow bastion as high as the main walls, but much thicker, and about fifteen feet square. These were embrasured on two sides for cannon. The buildings within the enclosure are situated on three of the sides, extending the whole length of one side, and about half the length of the other two, are of equal height with the walls, and are covered with earthern tile.

Private Estates. — The estates of individuals, if devoted principally to the rearing of stock, were denominated Ranchos ; but if used chiefly as plantations, they were called Haciendas.^ The mansion-houses and other buildings, on these private farms, were constructed of adobes — lumber, except at great cost, not being obtainable in the country — and they were, in some instances, surrounded by heavy adobe walls, like the presidios and missions.

The traveller on the Sacramento will have a distant view of the estate formerly occupied by Captain John A. Sutter, who, as will appear in the sequel, is intimately connected with the great discovery of gold in California. This hacienda is situated near the confluence of the Sacramento and American rivers, about two miles south of the city of Sacramento, and one hundred and thirty miles north-easterly from San Francisco. In dimensions, outline and general features, it resembles the presidio of San Francisco ; and, at a former period, it was defended by cannon of small calibre, and by Indian soldiers. The mansion-house stands directly before the lofty gateway, within the walls, and, in dimensions, is about seventy feet by thirty, two stories in height. It is adorned with the extra embellishment of a cupola on the front gable ; and, although a comparatively recent structure, the whole is in a state of decay. This crumbling relic, thus prematurely old, is yet suggestive of a time when its proprietor was, perhaps, the only civilized being within a circuit of many leagues around his dwelling ; when his only companions and aids were the stolid Digger Indians, and he surrounded by numerous hostile savages. In those circumstances it would seem that even the boundless valley of the

* Lands, estates, tenements.

TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT. 11

Sacramento and the shining river, spread out in all their lonely grandeur before his guarded mansion, the lofty Buttes and snow-capped Nevadas in the distance, broad fields of waving grain, and countless flocks and herds, could have no charms sufficient to compensate for the absence of wife, . children, friends, social joys, and native land ! But the history of California, and of the world, attests that the wild spirit of adventure is often more potent than the strongest earthly ties.

Territorial Government. — The government de- I scribed in the preceding pages, necessarily foreshadows that I which existed in the territory during a long series of years. The mother country, having established her sovereignty, was content to let succeeding events develop their own results ; and did but little to promote the welfare of this distant country, excepting to make grants of land, and to encour- ' age the establishment of missions. To the viceroys of New Spain she committed its immediate oversight and government. These officials gave only occasional attention to the subject, leaving the management principally to the holy fathers and the commandantes. The private adventurer, whose estates were situated beyond the limits of the missions, lived uncontrolled — a " monarch of all he surveyed." The government of the missions was, practically, that of master and slave.

In the beginning, the communities within them were small, consisting severally only of a few padres, soldiers, and other Spaniards, who sought protection until they could occupy their own lands. By presents and persuasion the fathers soon began to exert an influence on the minds of the Indians, several hundreds of whom, in a few years, became inmates of each of these institutions. The Indians were instructed by the soldiers in the cultivation of the soil and in mechanical trades. Thejassisted in the manufacture of brick and in the construction of the walls and buildings of the missions. Their hours of labor were few, and thej were treated with great kindness.

By such means many of the natives soon became strongly attached to the padres, and certain hours of the day were devoted to holy service, and to instruction in a few of the dogmas of Popery. As soon as preparations could be made the church services and ceremonies were introduced. The gaudy display of the priests, the sacred images, and the shining mirrors, reflecting the tawny faces of the natives, inspired their veneration, and secured their obedience. After a time they were permitted to make journeys into the country, or visits to their tribes, to persuade other natives to leave their wandering life and become partakers of the blessings of civilization.

Thus the missions proceeded for many years, until they became firmly established. Indian children grew up within the pale of the church, and were attached to it by the prejudices or ties of education.

After these institutions became strong, a more enlarged plan of missionary operations was adopted. The soldiers and neophites * were permitted to make expeditions on the rivers in launches, and over the mountains and plains, among the Indian tribes, to persuade them to join the missions in greater numbers. So anxious were the holy fathers for the conversion of all those dark pagans that rewards were offered to these sub-missionaries to stimulate them in theic work of proselyting. It is recorded by La-Perouse, Captain

* LearuGis or new converts.

TFMJTORIAL GOVERNMENT. 13

Beechey, and earlier voyagers, that persuasion was not the only means employed to secure that end : but that quarrels were excited between neighboring tribes, one side of which these instigators would espouse, — conducting to the missions the prisoners they captured, and as many of the women and children as they could seize.

The holy fathers, of course, were supposed to know nothing of the means which had been used, in their absence, to bring these heathen into the fold ; but, having entered, it was a mortal sin in the converts to attempt an escape ! If kindness would reconcile them, it was bestowed ; but if that failed, imprisonment within the walls, whipping, or an iron weight fastened to one leg, would, generally, produce submission.

To effect an escape was, for these poor Indians, almost an impossibility. The country, for leagues around, was an open, shelterless, unwooded region ; and many of the faithful were scattered over it in their various employments. In such a condition of things, the holy fathers and commandantes were absolute in their several spheres. The missions and presidios, with all their lands, productions, flocks, herds, soldiers, and converts, belonged practically to them.

No material change in the government was made, excepting the appointment of two or three alcaldes in the pueblos, until the years 1812 and 1813, to which I have before referred, when the territories of California, having considerably increased in importance, began to attract more attention from the crown ; and decrees were passed by the Spanish Cortez to facilitate " the reduction of common lands to private ownership," for the encouragement of agriculture, for tlie formation of Ayuntamientos^^ and the appointment

* Town corporations or councils

14 IIISTOIIY OF CALIFOKNIA.

of as many alcaldes^ j'egidos,* and sy?idlcos,-\ as the public interest requii-ed. The father presidents and commandantes retained their powers, subject only to a few slight restrictions.

\ Between the year 1821, in which Mexico became independent of Spain, and the year 1837, various laws were enacted, making important changes in the government of the territories, and better defining the rights of the subject. The missionary presidents were confined to merely ecclesiastical rule ; the office of pr eject was created, with limited and clearly defined powers, and the missions were secularized and converted into pueblos.

In the year 1837 the Congress of Mexico wrought a fundamental change in the government of the department of Upper California. A governor, to be appointed by the president of the republic ; a departmental legislature, composed of seven members, to be elected by the people, and authorized to pass laws relative to taxes, public education, trade, and municipal administration ; with prefects, subprefects, ayuntamientos, alcaldes, justices of the peace, and certain inferior ministerial officers, composed the ncAV government.

That law swept away every vestige of the irresponsible and undefined power, which had been exercised, by ecclesiastic and civilian, for a long series of gloomy and unthrifty years, over the simple inmates of the missions, and defined the jurisdiction of every officer. But the days of internal commotion had dawned, and Mexico found other objects nearer home to engage her attention. The departments were neglected, and although Upper California, which for a

* Alderman or director. f A recorder or collector of tines.

LAWS AND LEGAL PROCEEDINGS. 15

season had thrown off the Mexican yoke, was reclaimed to her allegiance, yet her public affairs took any direction given by the successive triumphs of party at the capitol. The adopted system of government was never practically organized in the territory, and little change was wrought until the occupation of the country by the American army in the year 1846.

Laws and Legal Proceedings. — The presidents of the missions were the first administrators of the law in this colony. They declared the rules of civil action in all cases, and enforced them in their respective jurisdictions according to their pleasure. These rules were at first few and simple, and proceedings to enforce them were prompt and summary. At a later period, when many missions had been founded, and had accumulated wealth and local influence, these officials were disrobed of their ermine, which wjis conferred on the commandantes of the four military districts before mentioned. Each of these districts embraced several missions, settlements and pueblos, and the missionary presidents were thereafter styled 'prefects ; but in the course of a few years a very limited judicial power was again conferred on them, with an appeal from their judgments to the commandante.