Life among the Mormons, and a march to their Zion: to which is added a chapter on the Indians of the plains and mountains of the West

Introduction

Last spring I left St. Louis under orders of Major-Gcneral Pope, then commanding the Department of the Missouri, to accompany troops from that City to Camp Douglas, which overlooks the City of the Saints in the valley of the Great Salt Lake.

I started without any intention of writing a line descriptive of my journey, further than might be contained in my private correspondence ; nor did I conceive the idea of pre* paring anything for publication until several weeks after the completion of my journey, when, in a letter from my friend, to whom I have inscribed this book, I was requested to furnish an account of my journey, and of the Mormons, for publication in the New Orleans Advocate, of which he is the editor.

vi INTRODUCTION.

I commenced a series of letters, with m.:ny misgivings a. to my ability to make them entertaining or instructive. As the only record I kept of my experiences and observations was in a small pocket diary, I lacked the inspiration, which a record of scenes and events would have received if written about when they were observed or transpiring, and had to trust much to memory for incidents.

At the conclusion of the series my friend again comes forward and suggests their publication in book-form. Several other friends agreeing with him as to the fitness of things in doing so, I have relied upon their judgment more than upon my own, and compiled the letters for publication in their present form.

All the letters have been carefully revised, and some of them considerably elaborated, while those in which I attempted a history of the Mormons have been almost entirely rewritten and very largely added to.

It has been my fortune to have extraordinary opportunities of familiarizing myself with the practices and inner life of that strange people, and what I have herein recorded is no mere sensational narrative, to create a popularity for the work, but a plain statement of what 1 believe to be facts

I

INTRODUCTION. vii

I am not at liberty to mention the names of the parties from whom I received most of the information concerning the Mormons ; but suffice it to say it was from those who spoke of their own personal knowledge and observation.

Having no aspirations for notoriety as an author, and having written these pages more for the gratification of my friends than for any advantage that can accrue to me individually, I would refer the reader to the Rev. Dr. Newman, as in a measure responsible for the publication, and I have no doubt, if he cannot indorse all that I have written, he will vouch for the honesty) and disinterested motives of

The Author.

Utah Territory, i867.

Chapter I. Pagk

FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO FORT KEARNEY.

Fort Leavenworth. 1 8th U. S. Infantry. Major Van Voast and other officers. The Ladies. Large Train. Incidents connected with it. An Old Friend. Indirect Roads. The Overland Stage Route. Ranches. Character of the Country. The Mirage. Amusements. Indians. I

CHAPTER II. FROM FORT KEARNEY TO FORT McPHERSON

Fort Kearney. Without any Work of Defence. Dilapidated Post. Additions to our Command. More Ladies. The Great Overland Emigrant Route. Small Trains in an Indian Country. Change in appearance of Country. View from the Sand Buttes. Indian Outrages. Ranches for Defence.

CHAPTER III. FROM FORT McPHERSON TO FORT SEDGWICK

Fort McPherson. New Post. Its Garrison. Death. Grazing for our Animals. Taking in a Herd. Ranches again. Beauvais. Trading Arms and Ammunition to the Indians. Neglect of Agricultural Pursuits and why neglected. Buffalo Gnats. An Officer narrowly escapes being Shot. Julesburg. Adobe Houses. Fort Sedgwick. Major Norris. Folding the Platte. Cold Weather. The Command Divides. 1 6 x CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Pagb

ALONG LODGE POLE CREEK.

Why the Creek is so Named. An Indian Lodge. Occasional Disappearance of the Stream. Natural Route for the Pacific Railroad. Beaver Dams. Antelopes. Prairie Dogs. Rattle Snakes. Lonely Route. Severe Hail Storm. 24

Chapter V. Through The Black Hills

Snow-c'ad Mountains. Prairie Flowers. Black Hills. Old Fort Walbach. A Canon. Pretty Camping Ground. Hilly Journey. Snow-balls in June. Grand View of Laramie Plain and Medicine Bow Mountains. A Party of Sioux Indians. A Cold Bath. No Game. Elk. Cold Nights. Soldier Burned by the Indians. 31

Chapter VI. From Fort Halleck To The North Platte

Fort Halleck. New Post. Fort John Buford, and afterward Fort Sanders. Unsettled and Wild Country. Disregard of Civil Law. Summary Executions. High Prices. Command Further Reduced. Soldiers Healthy on a March. More Wild Flowers. Fatal Accident on the North Platte. Affecting Scene. The Overland Stage Company. The Liberality of the Government toward It. How the Government has been treated in Return. Inferior Coaches and Poor Animals, How Mr. Colfax was transported. A Band of Ute Indians. An Unpleasant Ride with two Indians.

Chapter VII

FROM BRIDGER'S PASS TO GREEN RIVER, The Western Slope. Warmer Weather. Change in Appearance of Country. Musquitoes. Returning Californians. Why they Return. Defunct Montana Gold Mining Company. Coal and Petroleum. Artemesian Plain. Bitter Creek. Profitable Hunting. California Horses. Snow-capped Mountains again. 46

CONTENTS. xi

Chapter VIII. Page

FROM GREEN RIVER TO FORT BRIDGER.

Green River. Can it be Navigated ? Not Fordable. Ferry and how Constructed. Ham's Fork. Traders. Black's Fork. Church Butte. Moss Agates. Fort Bridger. Its Location and Surroundings. Formerly Held by the Mormons. Game. Judge Carter. " Uncle Jack." His Habits. Fondness for Frontier Life. 51

Chapter IX. More About Fort Bridger

Rich Land on the Reservation. Its Mineral Resources. Why it is not Settled. The Garrison of Fort Bridger. Galvanized Yankees. Demoralization of Troops. Dishonesty of Officers. Adventure in a Snow Storm. Accommodations at a Ranch. Severity of the Storm. Camped Out. Close Quarters. Daylight, and a Walk to the Fort. Its Difficulties. Wading Streams. Arrival at the Post. A Three Days' Ride considered a Trifle. Accommodations for a Night. Anothor Night in the Cabin of a Mountaineer. 60

Chapter X. From Fort Bridger To Wanship Settlement

Bridger's Butte. Fine Scenery. The " Muddies." Quaking Asp Hill. Bear River. Cache Cave. Echo Canon. Tall Bluffs. Mormon Defences. Mormon Shot. Conversation with a Teamster. Fresh Vegetables. The Echo of Bugle Sounds. Trout Fishing. Black Birds, Ravens, &c. Farms. Coalville. Mormon Meeting-House?/*. Photograph Gallery. 7 1

Chapter XI. From Wanship To Salt Lake Valley

Wanship. Lager Beer. " Sisters." First visit to the House of a Polygamist. Difference in the Women. Silver Creek. Canon. Parley's Park. Why so named. Kimball's Hotel. Grazing Lands. Parley's Canon. Wild and Grand Scenery. More Trout Fishing. 80 xii CONTENTS.

Chapter XII. Page

SALT LAKE VALLEY AND THE CITY. '

First View of the Valley. Camp Douglas. The City. Twin Peaks or" the Wasach. Beautiful Landscape. Pest of Camp Douglas. Col. Johns. Warm Sulphur Springs. Baths. Location of Salt Lake City. Its Bulwarks. Character of its Buildings. Immigration. President's Block. Fruit. Temple Square. The Temple. The Tabernacle. " Bowery." Theatre. Hotels. Business Houses. Photograph Galleries. Neswspapers. 86

Chapter XIII. The Dead Sea Of America

My Compagnons de Voyage. Salt Lake. Black Rock. Density of the Water. Why it Remains Salt. Salt Works. Bath in the Lake. Floating upon the surface. Different Accounts of the Buoyancy of the Water. Drive Back to the City. Hot Springs. A Mistake. A Lake on the Top of the Mountains. A Gorgeous Sunset on Salt Lake. . 97

Chapter XIV. The Mormon Church

The Tendency to Abuse the Mormons. First Favorable Impressions. How they Change. Extravagant Accouuts. Early History of the Church. Joseph Smith its Founder. His Death. Brigham Young. Sidney Rigdon succeeds Smith. Brigham Deposes Him. Mimicry of the Martyr. Persecution drives the Saints to the Far West. The Pioneer Party locate Zion. The Hosts Emigrate. Their Hardships and Sufferings. Brigham's Ability as a Leader. Organization of the Territory. The State of Deseret. The Cause of the " Mormon War." Brigham declares Martial Law. March of Gen. Johnston to Utah. Settlement of the Difficulty. Diplomacy of Brigham. Advantages Gained by the Mormons. *o6

CONTENTS. xiii

PAGZ

Chapter XV

DOCTRINES OF THE MORMON CHURCH. POLYGAMY.

Articles of Faith. Doctrines modified from time to time, God's Materiality. The Materiality of the Holy Ghost. A Man imagines himself Adam. Church Government. The Presidency. The Patriarch. The Apostles. "The Seventy." The High Priests. The Bishops. The High Council. Other Officials. Polygamy of Modern Introduction. Its Origin. Brigham publishes it. Cause of Dissention. Smith said to Authorize and also to Condemn Polygamy. Denounced by Prominent Saints as late as 1850. Forbidden in the Book of Mormon and of Doctrines and Covenants. The Polygamy Revelation. 115

Chapter XVI. Practical Polygamy

Inconsistency known by the People. Object in Instituting Polygamy. Marriage essential to Woman's Happiness in Heaven. Inducements for Men to become Polygamists, Women enter into Polygamy from Pure Motives, No Proper Appreciation of Marriage Relations. Celestial Wives. Sealing for Eternity, Marrying in Polygamy. First Wife must be Consulted. A Man Wants to Marry a Family. He fails and seeks the Servant. Women counselled to Marry. Mormons Marry Other Men's Wives. Bishops negotiate for Wives and Husbands. Hurried Marriage. Wives self-supporting. Women Resigned. Jealousy. Husbands cease to Respect their Wives. Wives reproach themselves for Marrying. Barren Women not respected. Indecency. 131

Chapter XVII. Polygamy Continued

Discontent in the Harem. Prophet's Lecture to Women. He offers to Release his Wives. His offer impracticable. Divorces. Easily Obtained. Women advised to get Divorced. Adultery. Immoral Influences of Polygamy. Soldiers taking Mormon Women home. Polygamy probably on the decline. More strongly advocated in consequence. Brigham urges it. Salt Lake Telegraph on the subject. The Legislature memoralize for the Repeal of the Law Prohibiting Polygamy. Inconsistency of such Teaching. Extent of xiv CONTENTS.

FAGS

Polygamy. Danger. How Brigham talked to Mr. Colfax on the Subject. Duty of the Government. 145

Chapter XVIII. Where The Mormons Come From And How They

REACH SALT LAKE.

Their Missionaries Abroad. Statistics of Immigration. Nationalities of Immigrants. How Missionaries are Appointed. Good Missions Sought After. Bad ones regarded as Punishments. How Missionaries are Supported. What constitutes Going without Purse or Scrip. How they are treated in England. Presidents now allowed to take one Wife Abroad. A Second Wife turns up in Liverpool and passes as a Sister. Harsh Words about a President. Where Meetings are held. The Advantages of Zion induce many to Unite with Them. Zion Equal to Canaan. Apparent Interest in Spiritual Welfare. God's Physical Kingdom. Duty of Saints to Build it up. Emigration Money. Separation of Families of Emigrants. Fourteen Girls shipped without a protector. Emigrant Ships. Provision for the Voyage. Organization. A Drunken President. Slight Offense. Amusements. Land at New York. By rail to the Missouri River. No provision for Sick. How Teams are provided. Emigrants walk. Hardships. How the People are kept contented. Hand-Carts for Transporation. Arrival in the City. , 159

Chapter XIX. Mormon Worship And Mormon Dignitaries

Public Services in the Tabernacle. Mr. Cannon's Sermon. Brigham Young's Sermon. First Sermon of a Proselyte and his History. Brigham's Appreciation of Education. Sacrament of the Lord's Supper. Ward Meetings. Semi-annual Conferences. No Sabbath Schools. Dancing. Social Parties. Celebrations July 26. Dress. Schools. Appearance, &c. of Brigham Young. Heber C. Kimball. Daniel H. Wells. Other Officials. The People. Agriculture. Characteristics of the people, Amelia, the Last Wife. Danites. Porter Rockwell. 173

CONTENTS. xv

PAG«

Chapter XX. Crimes Of The Mormons And How Mormonism

MAY BE ERADICATED.

Mormons Intolerant. Mountain Meadow Massacre. Mormons Disguised as Indians. Evidence of Mormon Complicity. Bones of the Slain buried Years Afterwards. Other Murders. Impossibility of administering Justice. Murder of Morris. Of Dr. Robinson. What holds together the Mormons. Brigham's Will supreme. Is Brigham an Impostor or Fanatic? His Death will terminate Mormonism. Enlightenment of the People needed. Dissentions. Influences of a Gentile Population. Mutual Benefits to Church and Government in Co-operation. Duties of the Church. Rev. Mr. McLeod. Gradual Abolition of Polygamy. 1 87

CHAPTER XXL

THE INDIANS OF THE PLAINS AND MOUNTAINS.

Similarity in Habits. Localities of Different Tribes. Sioux. Their hostility. War with the Snakes. General appearance. Their Physique. Squaws. Their Dress. Pappooses. Births. Infidelity of Squaws. Men and Boys good riders. Weapons. Scalps. Scalp Dance. Chieftainship. Medicine Man. How he Cures. Steam Baths. Reception. Smoking. Marriage. Polygamy. Robes and Skins. Their Dead. How Buried. How they define time. Signs. Diet. Powers of Endurance. Tortures. The Character of the Indian. Despicable in every way. Indian Council at Fort Laramie. Its Results. Interior Department temporizing with Indians. Gen. Sherman's actions. Commissioner of Indian Affairs. 203

Life among the Mormons.

Chapter I. From Fort Leavenworth To Fort Kearney

Fort Leavenworth was, in April last, the grand rendezvous of troops of the regular army, who, as in former times, were to garrison posts on the frontier, whence they had been withdrawn in '6i to aid in suppressing the late great rebellion. From that point they were to proceed to the various forts North of the Arkansas, and as far West as Salt Lake City.

Outfits for several commands, as large as the one I ac- • companied, were furnished at Leavenworth ; but so complete were the arrangements for meeting the demand, and so prompt the action in the different departments, that but little delay occurred, and, after camping only a few days in the vicinity, we struck tents and commenced our long Westward march.

The location of Fort Leavenworth is doubtless familiar to the reader. It is in Kansas, on the south bank of the Missouri, about 500 miles above its mouth, and overlooks the thriving city of the same name. It is one of the oldest military stations of the West, and has for many years been the depot from which supplies have been furnished the various posts on the plains.

It was my good fortune to accompany a detachment of the 1 8th U. S. Infantry, consisting of one battalion of eight companies, and recruits for two other battalions, numbering in all about 1300 men.

2 FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH

The whole was under the command of Major Van Voast, an experienced officer, long familiar with frontier life on the Pacific coast, and subordinate to him were a number of officers, belonging to the same regiment, who had proven their fitness for the positions they held by long and gallant services in the field with our Western armies. They were all strangers to me then ; but three months of intimate, and constant association, caused a warm mutual friendship to exist, which will remain among the most pleasant memories of my army life.

But I must not in this connection neglect to refer to the most pleasant feature of the journey we were then about to commence. The presence of six ladies in our company, it is unnecessary to say, contributed largely to the enjoyment of the trip. Some of these ladies had campaigned with their husbands before, but the majority were then to experience life without the bounds of civilization for the first time. The latter class, however, — and among them were young ladies who had never been beyond the sound of a piano or a church bell, — appeared to enjoy the trip throughout more than those who were already familiar with the inconveniences incident to a journey of the kind. For our large command, with its attaches, on a long journey, no insignificant amount of transportation was required, and thanks to the obliging quartermaster, at Leavenworth, Col. Potter, our supply and baggage train was ample and numbered over ioo six mule army wagons, besides six ambulances, and the private conveyances of officers whose families accompanied them. There is something interesting connected with this train. The wagons that composed it had been sent overland the summer before from Washington, where they had been collected from the army of the Potomac after the close of the war. It was a singular coincidence to have with us on the march the same wagons that had followed us in the Peninsular campaign in '61, two thousand miles distant. That such was the case regarding some of them, our Quartermaster assured me there could be no doubt, for he recognized on several, marks

TO FORT KEARNEY. 3

which he had placed there when acting in the same capacity in the 5th army corps, during the eventful campaign referred to. A still more remarkable coincidence was that of a driver having in his team a span of mules which he said were, most unquestionably, the identical mules he had driven from the positien our army held in front of Richmond to Harrison's Landing on the James River at the time of the retreat of Gen. McClellan in 1862.

This brings to mind personal associations of my own with an esteemed friend whom I first met about the same eventful period, and who subsequently joined us on the march. In '62 we were associated in the army of the Potomac, in '64 in the city of New Orleans, in '65 in St. Louie, and in '66 we journeyed several hundred miles together over the plains of the far West, destined to different and remote posts, possibly to meet again in our army career, possibly only in eternity. We parted warmer friends, after so many accidental, but pleasant, associations. The officer I refer to is Surgeon Alexander, long the popular and efficient Medical Director in the Crescent City.

All things being ready for the march, on the 26th of April, while the weather was yet cool and pleasant, and before the fields were green with the grass of spring, our column may have been seen wending its way over the hills of Kansas in the direction of Ft. Kearney. For several days we did not get beyond the enclosed and cultivated farms, which in the absence of a regularly surveyed public road made our course much more tortuous than when travelling over the unsettled prairie beyond. It seemed at times as if the road passed around three sides of a farm, when there was nothing to interfere with its following the more direct fourth boundary line. But the roads were excellent, and we in no hurry. What difference did it make to us if our 1200 miles journey should be extended five miles by indirect roads?

After passing to the West, and within sight of Atchison, we struck the great overland stage route, along which we marched many hundred miles. The sight

4 FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH

of a stage-coach twice daily, and the constant presence of telegraph poles, tended to relieve to some extent those inclined to loneliness. With me it caused frequent thoughts of loved ones far away, with whom such means could speedily communicate, but from whom I must necessarily, for a long time, be separated. From Atchison, Kansas, to California, there is daily a line of stages making the entire journey in sixteen days.* To conduct this great enterprise successfully and profitably, it is necessary that there should be frequent relays of horses, accordingly there are stations all along the line, separated 10 or 12 miles, where the horses are changed, and every 40 or 50 miles is a " Home Station," where the driver changes also, to return over the same road, so that each driver in a short time becomes familiar with every part of his route. At the Home Stations passengers obtain their meals.

The route is divided into Divisions, over each of which is a superintendent ; and at the terminus of each Division the passengers, baggage, and mails are transferred to other coaches. All the changes are made expeditiously, and but little delay occurs anywhere. Mr. Benjamin Holladay is the principal proprietor of the stage line, and is a man of remarkable energy and enterprise. I regret that my first favorable impressions of Mr. Holladay and his line did not continue. I will hereafter explain why I do not think him entitled to all the laudations which writers, who have accepted his favors, heap upon him.

Along this part of the route, in addition to the Stage Stations, there are many " Ranches " for the accommodation of emigraHts, and also, and more particularly, for the profit of the keepers. They are generally constructed of logs and very rudely built, but most of them contain a good assortment of the more essential articles required by

* Since the above was written the extension of the Pacific Railroad, westward, along the Platte river, has made Omaha the eastern terminus of the California overland route, instead of Atchison; and passengers already have the monotony of the journey broken by several hundred miles ride in the cars.

TO FORT KEARNEY. 5

the emigrant, as well as some he does not require. Canned fruits and vegetables are conspicuously displayed upon the shelves, making perhaps a greater show for the same cost than other articles the establishment contains, and generally no inconsiderable quantity of " Hostetter's Bitters'* — a form in which the emigrant may obtain very poor whiskey at a very high price — occupy prominent places upon the shelves also. In addition to Stations and Ranches there are also several trading towns or villages between Leavenworth and Kearney. Seneca, about six days journey (as we travelled) from Leavenworth, is quite a thriving and enterprising place. I found the cunning Yankee trader at Seneca as well as every where else where a store is kept on the plains, and paid for my dealing with one by being badly cheated in some cigars.

The country over which we passed from Leavenworth to Kearney presents a beautiful, regularly undulating surface, and is watered at convenient distances for daily marches, by numerous streams.

The rolling prairies of Kansas differ widely from the broad plains of Illinois. The reader who has only seen the latter level can form but a poor idea of the beauty and grandure of the former. One who has sailed over the ocean during a calm the day after a storm, and has observed the gentle elevations and depressions of its surface, without a ripple upon the water, and can imagine a vast extent of country, extending far away to the horizon all around, as smooth as the sea, and with the same regular undulations of its surface but magnified a thousand times, can form some idea of the vastness and beauty of the country over which we journeyed from Leavenworth to Kearney.

The atmosphere is clear and rarifled, and objects can be seen a long distance. The mirage about the horizon adds increasing beauty to the scenery. When observing elevation after elevation far away in the distance, until the last little hill seems to support the cloudy dome, we could see reflected on the sky the appearance of a beautiful silvery lake, with its islands and its trees. To one unaccustomed

6 FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH

to the scene, and not informed as to its true nature, the optical delusion is complete. Objects near the horizon with the sky as a back-ground appear of immense size — cows eight or ten miles distant look like elephants, and a David would seem to be more than a Goliath in stature.

This vast uncultivated region is not only pleasing to the eye in viewing its topography, but possesses a fertility of soil unsurpassed, I should suppose, by any farming lands in the country. The slightest cultivation would cause it to yield to the husbandman the most luxurient crops of every product of the richest valleys of New York or Ohio, and we predict for Kansas, when the great highway — the Pacific Railroad — shall have been completed, and emigration poured into the State, an agricultural wealth equal to that of any other part of the Union.

The country as I stated before, is not without water, but many clear and rapidly flowing streams are found in its fertile, and in some instances, cultivated valleys. The names of these streams are not very classic or poetic. We crossed the " Big Sandy," the " Little Sandy," the " Big Blue," "Bull Creek,"' and the " Big Muddy." But the" latter should not be mentioned in the same connection with the prairie streams of this countrv. It is not a stream at all, except after a rain, but a series of disgusting standing pools which are kept constantly stirred up to almost the consistency of butter-milk, for a mile on either side of the road, by thousands of animals, belonging to the passing trains, being driven into them to drink. Along this part of the route, only, is water scarce ; but here for 35 or 40 miles the " Big Muddy" affords the only water, except the small wells at the Stations.

I must tell the reader something; of the incidents of our

Cc

journey, and not confine myself to a description of the country onlv. Such a trip as ours was certainly an enjoyable one and I enjoyed it in other ways than admiring the scenery. How incomparably more pleasant to travel, as we did, to being rushed over the road, night and day at break-neck speed, in one of Ben Holladay's coaches, be the comforts

TO FORT KEARNEY. 7

afforded in the latter all that the ingenuity of the great contractor could offer a Colfax and party.

Our marches were from 1 8 to 20 miles a day ; starting at 5 o'clock in the morning, and going into camp usually about noon. The remainder of the day was spent in such recreations and amusements as the country afforded, and the taste of the indiuidual would lead him to indulge in. But to me the tvhole march was recreation and amusement. Not beinorequired to accompany the column, I wandered off for miles in search of the better game of the country. Everywhere we found birds numerous. For prairie chickens we hunted away from the road : for ducks along the streams, and in the little pones to be found here and there ; for the English plover we sought out the marshy places, and there were the snipe also ; for the smaller birds — -prairie plover, and meadow larks it was not necessary to leave the road, but shoot them from the ambulances as we rode along. Those of us fond of bird-shooting found abundance of such sport, and our tables were daily s*upplied with at least some luxuries which would be highly relished even in New Orleans where there is always so much to gratify the palate. I remember on one occasion bringing down with the two loads of my gun, nine large English plovers — more than a mess for all the ladies in camp. In the afternoon it was no uncommon thing to catch within a hundred yards of our camp (for we always camped on a stream), a good mess of small pan-fish for our early breakfast the next morning. So with plenty of prairie chickens, ducks, plover, fish, potatoes, and canned vegetables, in variety, there was but little danger of scurvy to be apprehended among those who could indulge in such luxuries.

The evenings were spent in the tents playing chess or cards, or in reading or conversation, according to the inclination of the party. But I early sought the embrace of Morpheus to be willing to rise at the sound of reveille in the morning, which usually was heard at 3J or 4 o'clock. Think of the trial, in this way imposed upon an individual, who, up to the commencement of the march, indulged in the

8 FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH &c.

bad habit of lying in bed in the morning until called to breakfast a 8 J or 9 o'clock, I early adapted myself to the new state of things however, and soon failed to regard it a hardship to rise with the early bird.

No danger was to be apprehended from hostile Indians, south of Fort Kearney, and the only red-skins now in that vicinity are a small band of the Ottoe tribe, who have a settlement on a government reservation a few miles east of the stage road on the Big Blue.

We remained over Sabbath in camp near their village, and many of the officers availed themselves of the opportunity of observing their domestic life, and visited their wigwams, but I was not among the number, preferring to wait until we penetrated further into the Indian country, before studying the habits of the noble (?) Red Man. I saw enough of the Ottoes, however, to satisfy me that they were a set of begging, thieving, filthy, disgusting savages. Though within a short distance of the white settlements they had adopted but few of the customs of the white man which added to their comfort, or advancement in civilization, but had acquired with readiness his vices. They were eager for whiskey, and I observed them gambling at cards with the soldiers when unable to speak a word of English.

They carried away the ofFal of our slaughtered cattle, and doubtless enjoyed their dinner of it, as one of unusual richness. And this occurred in a country where game is plenty, and the fertile soil yields abundantly of everything cultivated.

Sixteen marches brought us to Fort Kearney. As we approached the place, along *he Platte River, it could be distinctly seen when io or 12 miles away, and in the mirage, its building loomed up as the tall towers of an ancient castle.

Chapter II. From Fort Kearney To Fort Macpherson

We reached Fort Kearney on the 13th of May. It is one of the oldest posts on the plains, and is situated on the South side of the Platte River, about 200 miles from its mouth. The Platte possesses many of the features of the Missouri, of which it is an important tributary, but is an unnavigable stream, though through its bed flows an immense body of water. It is in places from a mile to a mile and a half in width, and its current as rapid as that of the great stream into which it empties.

The term " Forts," as applied to military posts on the frontier, has caused a very general misconception of their real character. It is the popular opinion, where it has not been corrected, that these forts are works of masonry, or at least extensive earth-works, after the style of our permanent fortifications in the States, or the more elaborate temporary works constructed so extensively in some localities, during the late war. But such is not the case. Fort Kearney, like nearly all the posts I have visited, is without any work of defense — not even a stockade. It consists simply of a number of two story frame buildings, arranged in the usual way around a parade ground, which is the centre of the post, furnishing quarters for the officers and men. There are also additional buildings as store-houses, stables, sutler's stores, &c. There are posts, however, in more dangerous localities, where the quarters are surrounded by a stockade, and others where slight earth-works exist, but such are exceptions to the rule.