Ten years at Pemaquid; sketches of its history and its ruins

Front matter

TEN Y EAR S

A.T

PEMAQUID

Introduction

Many an ancient spot, rendered dear by tradition and sacred associations, is disguised by a modern aspect. But though time brushes away the old landmarks and the once familiar scenes disappear, the halo cast by memory remains, and the locality lives in our hearts and thoughts as it was before the change.

Many people visit Old Pemaquid every year who have once claimed it as their home, but have been obliged to seek employment elsewhere. They cherish fond memories of happy days passed here. Few visit this place who do not wish to come again to enjoy its attractive natural scenery and try to fathom the hidden mysteries of its past.

After one year of research here I thought it would be an easy task to write a history of Pemaquid. To-day after ten years of investigation I have changed my mind. It is not from lack of interesting material, but it has been difficult to select the most interesting facts and put them in the most attractive form. I am especially indebted to Rev. H. O. Thayer of Portland, Maine, for valuable aid in compiling this work and for translations of important French documents. From Prof. John Johnston's History of Bristol and Bremen, which has been very freely quoted in this work, I have obtained more information than from any other single volume. Others, too numerous to mention, have contributed a sketch, a poem, a story, or bits of history, — to all of whom I tender my hearty thanks.

Because I love good children I have dedicated this work to them. Cruel fate has deprived me of my own for years, but many others have been my constant companions and true friends. The bright spots and much of the sunshine of my lifetime I owe to them. Scattered along the way from Maine to North Carolina I have found many kind friends who always greet me with a hearty welcome. Each springtime for years past, I have visited the "sunny Southland," where with my brother's children and their schoolmates we have roamed the fields and climbed the hills, and the steep sides of Old Pilot

VI

Mountain of the Old North State to get a bird's-eye view of the lovely scenery near the Blue Ridge Mountains. There we have gathered flowers to send back to children of the old Pine Tree State, before the ice and snow had released theirs from their frozen beds. From beneath the stones in the babbling brook, hundreds of miles west from the ocean, we have hunted out the fresh water lobster, and beneath the arc light on the city streets the rare electric light bug, and upon the stately oaks and other tall trees, that singular parasite the mistletoe, beneath which every English lassie delights to stand on certain occasions. These with other curiosities of one section of our country have been gathered to amuse and instruct those here who have not the privilege of going there to see them. On the Berkshire hills of western Massachusetts at Beulah Land we have ridden and gathered rare wild flowers, hooked the bright spotted trout from the clear cold streams that tumble down the water courses there, then cooked and eaten them with a hearty relish.

Here at old Pemaquid, barefoot urchins with bright eyes and nimble feet have followed the plough over the soil as it uncovered the stone pavings of former streets, and gathered from the fields relics of former days, and brought me to add to our collection. Some have gathered from our rugged shores and beautiful white sand beaches, rare shells, ribbon or lucky stones, and other odd pebbles to add to our mineral collection, and likewise New England sponge, dollar fish, razor clams, spider and horseshoe crabs, tiny lobsters, with many other natural curiosities. Their week-day and Sabbath-school exercises interest me, as also their evening songs and dances, boat rowing, sailing and bicycle riding. In all their innocent amusements I love to watch and mingle with them and forget dull care.

Thus while I have been gathering material for this imperfect book I have remembered the children and youth and labored to gather substantial and useful relics and curiosities, many of which have been their contributions, hoping sometime to have a suitable building erected here where all can be on exhibition for the benefit of those who wish to examine them. Such an exhibit I hope sometime to have, properly arranged. It would perhaps be more useful to teach by object lessons than by printed books.

The Author.

Part 1. PAGE Location of Pemaquid 1

Description of Pemaquid 5

Date of Settlement 18

Early History — Weymouth's Voyage 21

Visit of the Popham Colonists 30

The Notable Capt. John Smith 34

Early Traffic and Fishery — Eelations with the

Pilgrims 37

Land Purchased — Somerset's Deed of Pemaquid.. 44

Noted Indians 50

The Pemaquid Patent 55

Wreck of The Angel Gabriel 57

English and French Rival Claims — La Tour and

D'Aulney 62

The Duke of York's Government 68

Part IL

Relics 78

Old Fort Rock and House — Anecdotes 81

Old Cellars 92

Ancient Pavements 95

The Old Cache 104

Blacksmith Shops 109

Pipe Factories Ill

Traces of Shipbuilding 114

An Old Wharf 118

A Shipyard 123

The Cemetery 126

Field Days of Maine Historical Society 134

Part MI.

Fortifications — The First Fort 140

Fort Charles — Its Capture — Thomas Gyles 143

Fort William Henry — Besieged and Taken by

French and Indians 156

Re-settlement after Treaty of Utrecht — Fort

Frederic 176

Naval Engagement — The Enterprise and Boxer... 183

The Pemaquid Improvement Association 186

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PART I.

Chapter I

Location of Pemaquid — Once the most noted locality on the New England coast — Pemaquid as known to-day — Boundary lines of Pemaquid and Bristol — Change in the manner and routes of travel since Pemaquid was first settled — Neglect of its antique remains by its own people — Interesting peninsulas and islands extending out from the southern shores of Pemaquid — Boundary lines of ancient Pemaquid — Tide of summer travel turning this way — A good retreat from the cares and turmoil of city life — Visited by historians and antiquarians — How to reach Pemaquid — Its steamboat landings — Hotels and other places of interest.

HLTHOUGH once the most noted locality by for of all New England, to-day comparatively few people know anything of Pemaquid, its location, its topography or formation, or its history.

Pemaquid as known to-day embraces two of the three natural divisions of the southern part of the town of Bristol in Lincoln County, Maine. Bristol is bounded on the west by the Damariscotta River, on the north by the town of that name, and Bremen, once a part of Bristol, on the east and south by Broad Sound, the ocean and John's Bay. John's River on the west and Pemaquid River on the east divide the lower section into three parts consisting of hio-h ridges of land, which lie between them.

Bristol is supposed to have derived its name from a noted city of that name in England, whose leading merchants were among the first to manifest a deep interest in

American discovery, and subscribed a thousand pounds to fit out an expedition in 1603 to explore and trade on the New England coast. It was once on the highway of travel, when sailing vessels necessarily visited land often for fresh supplies of fuel and water. Now larger and swifter ships propelled by steam, race across the Atlantic Ocean in less days than it then took weeks, and the passing immigrant or traveler is rushed on to the more southern and western parts of our country, leaving the varied attractions of our state unseen, and by many unknown.

As the great lines of ships pass us on the one side, so the lines of railroad transport their passengers upon the other, leaving Old Pemaquid neglected while its inhabitants seek a livelihood on the \evy site of its ruins, former paved streets, and fortifications. All along the sea coast which bounds the southern shore of Maine, are many points, or peninsulas varying in length and height, and islands, which are all caused by nature's upheaval of mineral formation, the unbroken parts forming its peninsulas, and those rising out of the ocean at their southern extremities, the beautiful islands for which this coast has been noted since its first discovery by the white man. These divisions of land have been compared to the fingers of one's hand between which, flow bays and rivers of salt and fresh water. Across the head waters of the bays in this section, to save expensive bridging, the railroad extends direct from Bath to Kockland, thus spanning the territory of Pemaquid, east and west, and which — bounded by the Kennebec and Penobscot, as I understand — was claimed formerly by both the Indians and the English. On the south it was bounded by the uneven sea, on the north or- land side indefinitely. Not a pound of railroad iron has ever been laid in Bristol to bring travel to our shores, the whistle of the locomotive or the rattle of the electric car never startled our deer or other wild game, and the telephone has never stretched out its hand to greet us till this year, 1898. Teams and stages convey the mail, goods, and people by land, and sailing vessels and small steamers by water, as in ancient times.

Within the last decade the tide of travel to some extent has turned back " down east" and many people come this way where for generations past they have had the reputation of " prying up the sun in the morning." Portland, with its noted isles of Casco Bay ; Fort Popham, Boothbay, Squirrel and Heron Islands, Christmas Cove, South Bristol and Pemaquid and so on to Bar Harbor ; and beyond are resorts on our shores now eagerly sought, by increasing thousands every year. Historians and lovers of the antique, seek Pemaquid, where they find besides many attractions of other resorts, a locality rich in past history, as well as much mystery, which yet puzzles, while it interests the antiquarian. No naturalist has yet solved the mystery of the great oyster shell mounds of Ancient Pemaquid on the Damariscotta River, or historian, of the excellent pavings found at three different localities on both banks of the Pemaquid River ; thousands of other relics are objects of interest to the traveler.

HOW TO REACH PEMAQUID.

There are three lines of steamers touching at Pemaquid. First, the steamer Enterprise, Capt. Alfred Race, which has run here weekly from Portland, since 1887. Second, the steamer Merryconeag, Capt. I. E. Archibald, sails between Portland and Rockland, going down one day and returning the next, reaching Pemaquid stations about noon on her way. The third line, the Eastern Steamboat Co. makes connection with Boston, by way of Bath daily, during the summer time.

There are are two steamers' landings at Pemaquid, the first is called Pemaquid Beach ; the second Pemaquid Harbor, which lies across the river, on the west side. Passengers for the Penny Cottages, Edgemere Hotel, Bayview House, Lookout Cottage and Pemaquid Falls, land at the latter. Those passengers wishing to reach Long Cove, New Harbor, Pemaquid Point, the Beach or Jameson Hotel, near the landing, leave at the first station where carriages are found j'eady to convey them to their respective destinations.

The landing called Pemaquid Beach is near the ruins of the Old Fort, marked by the Old Fort Rock of Pemaquid with date of 1607 upon it. The Old Fort House, its beautiful peninsula, with its "field of graves," the site of the ancient capital of Pemaquid with its paved streets, which have been buried for centuries and only discovered by accident. Here is the great white sand beach with its continued "music of the sea;" also smaller beaches, the wonderful collection of curios and antiques, telling their undisputable stories of a people of long ago, who had become almost forgotten by their successors to this favored home of those who " go down to the sea in ships."

PEMAQUID VILLAGE.

Looking east from masthead of schooner W. H. Moody.

PEMAQUID CRESCENT SAND BEACH.

CHAPTEE II.

Description of Pemaquid as it appears to-day — A trip from Boothbay to Pemaquid — Description of islands, harbors and places of interest along the route — Villages and places of interest up the Damariscotta river — The great oyster-shell heaps — Summer Piesorts — Were the Norsemen here ? — Old wharves and buildings of former fishermen — Passage through the Thread of Life— Capt. William Humphrey mail carrier from Boothbay to Monhegan — Lighthouse of Pemaquid Point and its keepers — Sheep that secure their own protection and food the year 'round without the help of man — Witch Island, the summer home of the "Witch of Wall Street" — Ancient burying-ground in the woods — Ancient shell-heaps of the Indians, containing their bones and relics, at McFarland's Cove — High Island and lobster pounds — McLain's fish-trap — Cellars and "pits" of ancient settlers — John's Island and its former inhabitants — Battle there between the Indians and white soldiers — Large tomahawk and other Indian relics found there — Beaver Island — Camping out on this island over night — Used for adefence by De Iberville, when he attacked the fort in 1696 — Landing at Pemaquid Beach.

^OR further description of Pemaquid it seems necessary to note the present appearance, and industries of its people. As most people visit this place by water, I will join the traveler at Boothbay, witn his permission, and point out the various places of interest as we journey to the former capital, now called Pemaquid Beach, located at the mouth of the Pemaquid Eiver. As we stand on the deck, or gaze from the cabin window of one of the steamers daily plying between Boothbay and this place in summer, many places of interest can be seen to good advantage.

The first large island w^e pass on this trip is " Squirrel" too well known as a summer resort to need any description on this trip. On the opposite side we pass the wide entrance of Limekin's Bay ; on the high land at the north end we plainly see the three villages of Bayville, Murray Hill and Paradise, on the eastern side the two great factories seen are the property of the American Fisheries Company. On the southern point at the eastern entrance of this bay we see the dark spruce-covered island called Nigger Island, and the pretty clustering summer cottages of the new settlement named Ocean Point. Then, as we enter the mouth of the Damariscotta River, close by on the right, we see the government lighthouse and bell of Ram Island; the next in line, extending south, is Fishermans, and the outer one Damariscove Island (called in times past Damerills). That has a very small harbor at the south end where a life-saving station is located.

In 1676 when King Philip sent his emissaries along the coast of New England to annihilate the white settlers, the inhabitants of Pemaquid fled in terror from their homes, and three hundred of them gathered on Damariscove Island, and from there watched the smoking ruins of their former homes as they were being destroyed by the flaming torch of the savage. Here, too, in olden times the rollicking and jolly English fisherman celebrated his home customs by dancing around the May-pole to song and instrumental music. In this group those high islands lying a little farther east are rightly named White Islands. The Hypocrites, Pumpkin Islands and Outer Heron Island are others of this group.

Many stories of ghosts, hidden treasures and pirates have been told of the latter island, legends that still cling to many a spot along our rugged coast. On Outer Heron Island is a colony of uncommon imported foxes, which are cared for by its owner Capt. R. H. Emerson, a veteran of the civil war, still carrying many scars of battle. Several fishermen keep him company, and on the surrounding islands others have their homes in close proximity to excellent fishing o-rounds.

Passino- on to Inner Heron where we land at the northern end we are fairly among the great group of islands sometimes called the " Archipelago of Pemaquid." All the land we now see about us is surrounded by water except that lying across the river just west of us, and it could also be made an island by digging a canal a few hundred feet long.

Inner Heron Island has a charming location, and is a noted health resort. Its hotel, the Madockawando, is named for a Chief of the Penobscot tribe whose daughter married the French ofiicer Baron de Castine. It is now presided over by our genial white chief Edwin Rogers. The majority of the summer visitors upon this island are from Western Massachusetts. Those wishing to take a side trip on their passage to Pemaquid to visit the various places of interest up the Damariscotta River, will be well repaid by stopping at this island, and joining the steamer Enterprise, withCapt. Race, who with his ofiicers and crew will be pleased to point out all interesting localities along the banks of that attractive river.

The first landing place of the Enterprise is on the left bank of this river, called Rutherford's Island. This name is said to have been given it by Rev. Robert Rutherford, a Presbyterian clergyman who came to Pemaquid as chaplain for David Dunbar who was sent to rebuild Fort Frederic in 1729. There, where a bridge joins the island to the main land, is a little village called South Bristol. A summer hotel called the Summit House kept by Mv. Nelson Gamage, is well patronized by a fine class of people, many of them Friends or Quakers, from Philadelphia. A postoffice, stores, a shipyard, and many summer cottages are found there. There is much interesting history connected with this part of the town, but I have not time to rehearse it now. The next village two miles distant across the river is East Boothbay, (formerly called Hodgdon's Mills from the large tide-mill there). Vessels of large dimensions were formerly built there, l)ut to-day principally fine steam and sailing yachts.

Passing up the river, on Fort Island are the ruins of Fort Farley at its south end. The other places of interest along the l)anks of this river are estaljlishments where a great quantity of ice is cut principally from artificial fresh water ponds, on both banks of the river. Bricks, hay and wood are other articles of export. The transportation by large vessels plying up and down the river, often propelled by towboats, form interesting pictures which add to its attraction .

Twelve miles from its mouth are the quiet and pretty twin villages of Damariscotta and Nev\'castle, one on either bank of the river joined l)y a substantial bridge. Two miles farther up the river, arc found the fanious Oyster Shell Mounds, a puzzle to the naturalist and investigator since first discovered by the Avhite settlers, where yet remain immense heaps of decomposing shells from two to twenty-five feet deep, covering acres of ground on the banks of the river, and in some places are found ten feet deep in the bed of the ba3\ In the October number of the New England Magazine, 1898, is to be found an excellent illustrated sketch pertaining to those mounds, written by George Stillman Berry.

We will now continue our trip to Pemaquid. The next landing is the pretty little harbor of Christmas Cove,

PEMAQUID HARBORS, site of Old Forts and Settlements near the Month of the Peniaquid River

TEN YEARS AT PE3IAQUID. 9

thought by some to have been named by the Norsemen when they visited our shores in the year 1001. It might be well to cherish this name in remembrance of their visits to our New England coast. There are many hieroglyphical inscriptions found upon rocks at Monhegan and Damariscove Islands, supposed by many to have been the work of the Norsemen ; and we have abundant historical evidence of their visits to our shores centuries before Columbus came here, and records recently found at the Vatican, by Mr. John B. Shipley show that the Roman Church had in its possession a map furnished by them of New England and the easterly coast, fifty years l^efore the Columbian Expedition, showing that their discovery was recorded at that time. It is strange if Columbus, as well as some other mariners of his time, did not learn of it long before he sailed for America. In 1892 a Viking ship, a model of one of those used a thousand years ago, passed these shores on its way to the World's Fair at Chicago. The story of those hardy men, pictures, and descriptions of their ships propelled hy oars and a single square sail, make interestino; readino;. " All the monarchs of England after William the Conqueror, himself the Grandson of a Sea King, are descendants of the hardy Norsemen. They wore hoods surmounted with eagles' Avings and walruses' tusks, mailed armor and for robes the skins of polar bears. In one of their own old ballads, their hardy and ferocious disposition is well portrayed,"

" He scorns to rest 'neatli the smoky rafter, He plows with his boat the roaring deep; The billows boil and the storm howls after— But tempest is only a thing of laughter— The sea-king loves it better than sleep! "

They deserve a passing notice here because we of English descent, can trace our ancestry back to the Norsemen who overrun England under William the Conqueror.

Not many years ago Christmas Cove was one of the many fishing stations located along our coast from which sailed large and substantial fishing vessels, with sturdy crews on long voyages to the banks of Newfoundland and other places. The Thorp brothers owning two vessels, one called the " Mountain Laurel " sailed by Capt. Edward, and the " Twilight" by Capt. Loring Thorp, used to belong here. They made two trips to the banks for codfish each spring, being gone from six to eight weeks ; then during the latter part of the summer visited the Bay of Chaleurs and British coast in pursuit of mackerel. Large buildings were required to store and salt the fish they caught ; flakes covering much land were built to dry and cure them on. x\. store was provided to furnish with goods the families of those hardy men who manned their vessels. This is one of the " passing industries" of our sea coast. Steamers now land passengers where old bankers landed codfish. The old storehouses protect the freight and baggage of the summer visitors, and the descendants of the fishermen cater to their wants.

As we pass out of Christmas Cove continuing our passage toward Pemaquid Beach, we leave Inner Heron Island on the south. That large island which the steamer now heads for, whose highest part is covered with spruce trees is called Thrumbcap. It is owned by Mr. Edward C. Holmes (a relative of Oliver Wendell Holmes) who with his family and friends have occupied it for several years, using steam and sailing 3'achts for conveyance to different places of interest. One of the prettiest little beaches to be found in this section extends across a cove at the south end of this island which consists entirely of finely broken and bleached mussel shells. Mr. Holmes has shipped many barrels of them for hen food. At one time he had a mill at one of the oyster shell heaps above referred to on the eastern bank of the Damariscotta River where he made a business of grinding up the shells for the same purpose.

Here we change our course ; abruptly sweeping around the red spar buoy on our left, we enter a narrow passage called the " Thread of Life," which is formed by a part of the smaller islands, which extend in nearly a straight line between the two larger islands, Thrumbcap on the south and Birch Island on the north. The little huts seen along this passage upon either side of it, are occupied, a part of the year, by fishermen who come from a distance to catch lobsters, finding a safe and convenient harbor for the pursuit of their occupation.

Leaving this passage we pass another red buoy on the right at the north end of Crow Island and enter the southern part of John's Bay. In the far distance to the east we catch a glimpse of that "Grand Isle of the Sea" called Monhegan, an Indian name, having the accent on the second syllable, like Men-an-as, jVIus-con-gus, Xa-han-a-da, etc. This name is composed of two Indian words " Mena-han" an island, and "Ki-gan" land in or by the great sea, meanino; island at sea, or s^reat sea island.

This island is important on account of its connection with the early history of Pemaquid, being the one first mentioned in connection with it. For several years past it has been sought as a quiet retreat by artists and other people from the cities. Capt. William S. Humphrey with his schooner ' ' Effort " transports passengers and mail to and from Boothbay Harbor. He is now having a little steamer fitted up for that route called the Wa-wen-ock. For ages this great island stood like a sentinel to direct the incoming mariner to the mouth of the Penobscot River, as our other noted island of Seguin has always been the guide to the mouth of the Kennebec. There are now powerful lights on each of those islands to guide the mariners at nio-ht while sailinir in all directions about them.

The nearest land seen across the bay which forms its western boundary is Pemaquid Point, on which stands another government lighthouse and large fog bell, now attended by Charles A. Dolliver and Herman E. Brewer. This lio-hthouse was established and first attended in 1824 by Mr. Isaac Dunham, whose grandson, Martin Y. B. Dunham, now has a fine summer cottage and owns the little island at the entrance of New Harbor, the northeastern boundary of that })oint. This is an excellent specimen of those finger-like projections spoken of in the preceding chapter, sloping from the high ridge along its center to the shore in all directions. This, like most of the other points and islands in this vicinity, is now partially covered with a thick growth of spruce and fir trees, which have taken the place of large pines and other growth, which, centuries ago, existed here. Capt. John Smith when he surveyed this coast in 1G14, wondered how so large trees could 2:row upon the islands and main in this vicinity. Along the high ridges of these peninsulas extend excellent roads, with branches leading in various directions to the shore. Many fine fields and pastures with the homes of their owners are scattered all over this locality forming an attractive scene.

An interesting fact connected with this point is, that for many years past a large flock of sheep, ranging from one to three hundred in number, belonging to the Partridge heirs, have obtained their living on the western shore of this point of land. I am informed by Mr. Partridge that they have not been fed for many years past, until this winter, soon after the great storm of Nov. 27, 1898, he

SELF-SUPPORTING SHEEP.

had a small load of hay hauled down for them. I visited their feeding ground just a week afterwards, and the hay was still there, and the sheep were eating the food nature had supplied them with. They know when the tide leaves the shore at low water as well as a person ; they go in flocks to seek their food, eating the dulse and other vegetation thrown up by the sea. At high water they feed upon the moss and evergreen foliage. Amons; the thickest clusters of spruce trees they find their only protection from the howling blasts of winter ; and this growth is so thick that no ray of sunshine can penetrate in summer ; they live and thrive with little care or expense to their owners.

As we pass up the bay on the western shore, the highest land seen in close proximity to us is called Otis' Head. Next in order comes Witch and Davis' Islands formerly owned by ' ' Uncle Tommie" Gamage so well known to commercial travelers and summer visitors whom he so often carries about in his little boat from place to place. Witch Island is the summer home of Mrs. Grace Cortland, (who is called the Witch of Wall Street) who with her husband, their relatives, and friends pass much of their time at this thickly wooded, and quiet summer retreat. The small island lying just south of Witch Island has one house upon it and is connected with Rutherford's Island by a foot bridge. This w'as formerly the home of the above mentioned " Uncle Tommie" Gamage, but is now the summer home of Mrs. John J. Cavenough of Rhode Island.

The next point of interest is just beyond Witch Island on the mainland ; at the head of a little cove is an old burying ground walled in with roughly laid stone, so thickly overgrown with large trees in and about the yard that it cannot be seen from the water's edge. An investigation will show that of about one hundred graves, marked mostly by natural, rough stones, but very few have any names or dates to indicate who were laid there. I have been informed by aged people living in this vicinity that in ancient times people were carried in boats from Pemaquid to this place for burial.