Roundabout rambles in northern Europe

Preface

The Cartmells are natural travellers. They love to see the beautiful and the wonderful, at home and abroad ; they are willing to put up with inconveniences, and they rarely worry over accidents or grumble at delays. Mr. and Mrs. Cartmell began to make short excursions, taking their children with them when quite small. Before going to Europe, long trips were made in America, and described in the volume entitled " The Land We Live In." Pleasure and education are the great objects of their journeyings.

Miss Gray, the governess, usually accompanies them to look after the children, and to give them instruction as occasion permits. Frequently Mr. French, an old friend, joins the Cartmells, with his new yacht, the Verbena.

As Great Britain is so closely connected with the United States by language, history, and ancestry, the Cartmells find much to interest- thenr -there,-- and spend nearly a year in sojourning within its borders. Even then many well-known places are not visited, and are in many cases not mentioned in the text.

Every effort has been made to have the information given correct and up to date, so that the book may be a safe guide to all travellers crossing the Atlantic. The illustrations are nearly all made from photographs obtained largely in Europe. The Cunard Company has beeu.very courteous in lending photographs and cuts. A list of poems connected with the places described, which can be read profitably as the chapters are taken up, is given at the end of the book.

IV

PREFACE

Following the poems will be found a list of the best books used in the preparation of this volume, which can be consulted for more detailed information. The author hereby acknowledges his great indebtedness to these books for valuable facts.

Great assistance has also been given him by Mr. M. T. Pritchard, Master of the Everett School, Boston ; Miss Emma L. Merrill, B-oxbury ; Mrs. Mary E. Ereeman, Dorchester ; and Miss Gratia Cobb, Philadelphia.

THE AUTHOR.

COJSTTEJ^TS

Chapter Page

I. A EUROPEAN TOUR . 1

General Route in the British Isles — Tug — Lucania, a Cunard Steamer — Ancient Log — Modem Log — Cunard Track Chart — Ship's Compass — Fishing Schooner.

At Sea — Drawing-Room — Twin Screws — Engine Rooms — Triple Expansion Engine — Bed of the Ocean — Phosphorescence — "Wheel-House — Search-Lights — Different Lines of Steamers — Queenstown — Harbor — Landing — The Esplanade.

III. THROUGH IRELAND 29

Cork Harbor — Seaside Village — Jaunting Car — Blarney Castle — Route in Ireland — Gap of Dunloe — Killarney — Eagle's Nest — Middle Lake — Ross Castle — Killarney Lakes.

IV. NORTHERN IRELAND 40

English and Irish Railways — Western Part of Ireland — Peasants and Cabins — Dublin — Tram-Cars — Phoenix Park — Belfast — Antrim — Round Tower — Cliffs — Giant's Causeway.

V. IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 54

Route near Glasgow — Broomielaw Bridge — Clyde — Atlantic Liners — Building the Campania — Ready for Launching — Launched — Route in Scotland — Burns's Cottage — Kirk-Alloway — Burns's Mausoleum.

VI. OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 68

Fingal's Cave — Basalt — Island of lona — Lecture on Scotland — Famous Lakes — Dumbarton Castle — Balloch — Ben Lomond — Loch Lomond — Loch Katrine — The Trossachs — Forth Bridge — Edinburgh — Scott's Monument — Edinburgh Castle — Holyrood Palace.

V yj CONTENTS

Chapter Page

VII. ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIVERSITIES . . 86 Roslin Chapel — Melrose Abbey — Abbotsf ord — Route in England — England and Wales — York Minster — Plan — Choir Screen — Front Facade — Chapter-House — Choir — The Five Sisters — Lincoln Cathedral — Peterborough Cathedral — Ely Cathedral — Cambridge — On the Cam — University Town — Senior Wrangler.

VIII. LONDON, FROM CHARING CROSS TO TEMPLE BAR 107 Hotel Metropole — Trafalgar Square — Sketch Map of London — Fred's Map of London — London — Whitehall, Horse Guards — Houses of Parliament and the Thames — Clock Tower — Westminster Hall — Parliament Square — The Strand — Hansom Cab — New Law Courts — Temple Bar — Old Curiosity Shop.

IX. FROM TEMPLE BAR ROUND TO CHARING CROSS 124 Fleet Street — St. Paul's — Choir — The Monument — Ludgate Circus — Bank of England — Royal Exchange — Mansion House — Cheapside — Seven Dials — Holborn Street — Oxford Street.

X. WESTMINSTER ABBEY AND THE PARLIAMENT

HOUSES 141

English Schools — Front View of the Abbey — The Choir — Poets' Corner — Coronation Chair — Chapel of Henry VII. — Westminster Hall — House of Commons — House of Lords.

XI. AMONG THE PARKS OF LONDON 156

St James's Park — Buckingham Palace — Hyde Park — On the Serpentine — Albert Memorial — Albert Hall — Kensington Museum — The Tyburn Tree — Zoological Gardens — Regent Street — Richmond Hill — Fred's Letter.

XII. TO THE TOWER AND TOWER BRIDGE 167

Victoria or Thames Embankment — Gardens — Tower — Traitor's Gate — Tower Bridge — People's Palace — English Characteristics.

XIII. THROUGH THE HEART OF ENGLAND BY CAR- RIAGE 178

Windsor Castle — The Long Walk — Quadrangle, Eton College

— The Round Tower — St. George's Chapel — The Throne Room

— Stoke Pogis — Gray — Oxford — Christ Church — The Martyrs' Memorial — Oxford, Cambridge.

CONTENTS vii

Chapter Page

XIV. CLASSIC GROUND 195

Blenheim Park — Stratf ord-on-Avon — Stratford Church — Memorial Window — New Place — Anne Hathaway' s Cottage.

XV. IN THE CENTRAL PART OF ENGLAND .... 203 Warwick Castle — Kenilworth Castle — Coventry — Rugby

— Dr. Arnold's Home — Black Country — Vale of Cromford

— On the Moors.

XVI. THE ENGLISH LAKES 215

Scene at Grange — Furness Abbey — English Lake District — Lake Country — Windermere — Grasmere — Wordsworth's Grave — Seat at Eydal Water — Rydal Mount — Derwentwater — Greta Hall — TJUswater.

XVII. INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 234

Preston — Manchester — Piccadilly — Ship Canal — Liverpool — Lord Street — Landing-Stage — Alexander Dock — Commercial City — Enclosed Dock — Chester Cathedral — Eaton Hall — Hawarden ~ Birmingham.

XVIII. TO LAND'S END THROUGH THE SOUTH OF ENG- LAND 251

Southern Part of England — Hampshire County — Winchester — Cathedral — Portsmouth Harbor — Bournemouth — Stonehenge — Invalid's Walk — Exeter — Teignmouth — Tavistock — Cornwall — Old Lizard Head — St. Michael's Mount — Penzance — Land's End — Brighton.

XIX. NORWAY, — PLACES AND PEOPLE 269

Trondhjem — Route in Norway, etc. — North Cape — Hammerfest — Tromsoe — Fish Drying — The Laplander — A Lapp Boy — A Laplander's Home — A Group of Lapp Boys — Norwegian Carriages — Flatbread — Farm Buildings — Farm Work.

XX. NORWAY, — FIORDS AND FALLS 286

Geiranger Fiord — Seven Sisters — Bergen — Naersfiord — Market — Norwegian Wedding — Eingdalf os — University.

XXI. DENMARK AND SWEDEN 297

Copenhagen — Thorwaldsen Museum — The Bourse — Church of Our Saviour — Sweden — Gotha Canal — TJpsala — Stockholm — Mines.

viii CONTENTS

Chapter Page

XXII. RUSSIA . 309

The Government — Nihilists — Czar of Russia — Kronstadt

— Neva Eiver — St. Petersburg — Drinking Tea — St. Isaac Cathedral — The Alexander Column — Drosky — Coachman

— Store — Sleigh — Troyka — Winter Palace — Hermitage.

XXIII. MOSCOW AND NIJNI-NOVGOROD 325

A Russian Village — Moujik — The Kremlin — St. Basil's Church — Redeemer Gate — View from the Kremlin — The Great Bell — Treasury — Cossack — Nijni-Novgorod — Wolves.

Chapter 1

" I HAVE a cleliglitful surprise for you," said Mr. Cartmell one evening in early April, as the family gathered around the pleasant wood fire in the library, which the belated spring made extremely agreeable.

" What is it, papa ? " chorused the children.

Mrs. Cartmell smiled brightly.

" I know ! I know ! " cried Florence ; " you are going to take us all to Europe."

" You are a witch indeed ! " laughed Mr. Cartmell. " You find out all my secrets. I see that I may as well tell you at once. You are right. I have arranged for an extensive European tour, and we shall leave New York in May. Mamma must set about her preparations at once. As for you children, I shall expect an immense amount of studying for the

2 KORTHERN EUROPE

next few weeks. Miss Gray will have her hands full, I am sure."

From this time on everything was bustle in the Cartmell home. As this was to be longest journey yet undertaken by a

THE BRITISH ISLES

General Route in the British Isles.

the family, there were countless arrangements to be made before leaving.

Finally everything was in order, even to the careful packing of the camera; and on a beautiful day in late Ma}', the family found themselves on the docks in New York, ready for sailing.

Mr. Cartmell had taken passage on one of the swiftest Atlantic liners to Liverpool, in order that the children might become familiar with the latest remarkable feats accomplished in steamship architecture and equipment. As the giant craft lay alongside the dock, it afforded a good opportunity to compare her length with objects on shore. Her exact measurement was 620 feet, nearly an eighth of a mile.

As the sailiiig-liour approached, the scene on the dock became more and more animated. Heavy drays loaded with

Tug under steam.

merchandise hurried to discharge at the different gangways, where huge cranes were rapidly swinging the last of the cargo on board. Mail-wagons, with hundreds of sacks of European mail-matter, carriages filled with travellers and weighted with trunks, busy truckmen threading their way through the crowds, fruit and flower venders calling their wares, the gay good-bys and the sad partings of friends, all contributed to make up a novel and interesting picture.

At last the warning cry " All ashore ! " and the deafening noise of the whistle, bade every one not ocean bound leave the ship. The great hawsers were slipped ; and the ship, assisted by two tugboats, turned her prow seaward.

On the way down New York Harbor, the party noted the colossal statue of Liberty, the quarantine station, the quaint little fort on Governor's Island, and other points of interest.

Mr. Cartmell called attention to the low, sandy shores of the bay, curving out from the New Jersey side into the point called Sandy Hook, the outermost land of the harbor.

At Sandy Hook the pilot, whom every steamer must take down the harbor, left the ship, and the voyage was really begun.

Although the children desired to stay on deck till land entirely faded from view, Mrs. Cartmell, as a more experienced ocean traveller, insisted that their staterooms should at once be arranged for the voyage. As there were several hundred passengers on board, it was desirable to be settled as soon as possible. Before an hour had elapsed, the wisdom of this suggestion was apparent. Papa meanwhile had attended to the seats at table, and the bringing out of the deck-chairs and warm rugs.

The family were glad to find their rooms conveniently near the main stairway. The beautiful decorations, and the many arrangements for the travellers' comfort, were a pleasurable surprise. The long corridors, spacious saloons, and broad staircases, with the troops of white-coated waiters, made it difficult to realize that so great a hotel establishment could really be afloat on an ocean voyage. By the advice of Mrs. Cartmell, no attempt was made to explore the ship till the next day. The evening, though a beautiful one, saw but half the party on the deck. The long swell of the ocean, and the jar of the machinery, caused the majority of the passengers to retire to their staterooms early.

Dining-room, Lucania.

The next morning dawned bright and clear, with the sea smooth, and the air light and cool. Notwithstanding the good weather, but a small proportion of the passengers appeared for breakfast in the dining-room, and the row of chairs on the decks showed many vacancies. Mrs. Cartmell did not feel well enough to leave her stateroom, and all were more or less affected by the motion ; but Mr. Cartmell was urgent for fresh air, and finally succeeded in establishing Florence and Nellie in their chairs on deck. Tucked up snugly in shawls and rugs, they soon felt decidedly better.

" Papa, Avhat causes seasickness ? " queried Florence, as she rearranged her pillows.

''There are many reasons given," returned Mr. Cartmell. '' It is my theory that the trouble comes from the eye and the brain. The eye is strained by tlie unsteadiness of objects, and the brain fatigued. The ensuing dizziness produces nausea. However, do not dwell on your feelings too much. You will soon be all right. You will see plenty of things to interest you."

The noon hour brought several novel incidents, besides the cheering cups of hot bouillon carried about by the deck steward. The first was the throwing of the log to ascertain the speed of the ship. George and Fred had made friends with one of the officers, who kindly explained the working of the device.

Ancient Log.

" The log itself is, as you see, a small triangular piece of wood five or six inches wide. One edge is curved and weighted with lead to keep the log iipright in the water. It hangs square by two cords knotted into holes, the ends fastened to the log-line. When the log is used, a man holds the reel over his head, and throws the chip well clear of the wake of the ship. An officer with a sand-glass " turns " at the right moment, and when the sand has run out, calls ''stop." By the number of knots in the log-line which have run out, the speed of the ship is estimated. The word knot is used to designate a nautical mile, which is somewhat longer than the ordinary mile, being about 6,080 feet."

" This is a very ancient device, is it not ? " asked Mr, Cartmell, who had been listening to the officer's words.

^' Yes ; the earliest mariners used something of the kind. Every ship, however, carries one or more of the modern logs. One of these is a long brass cylinder with registering dials, fastened to the rail of the ship. The line remains overboard for twelve or twenty-four hours. It has small screw flanges at the end, and these keep the line twisting and pulling at the dials. The electric towing-log is also one of the modern inventions."

'' How many knots an hour does this ship make ? "

"As you know, perhaps, this is one of the fastest ships

ever built. We expect 21 knots an hour of her in good

weather. The first Atlantic steamer made only 8. If you

and your sons Avould like to see tlie machinery which pro-

Modern Log.

duces this great speed, I shall be happy to take you about to-morrow morning."

Mr. Cartmell thanked the officer, and said they would be only too happy to accept.

Meanwhile, from their comfortable chairs, the girls had been watching a seaman take the temperature of the Avater. A canvas bucket of water was drawn up over the side, and a thermometer plunged into it, and the result reported to an officer.

On the bridge, high above the forward deck, they saw the captain and first officer busily engaged in taking an observation, to ascertain the ship's position. It was announced that the result of the reckoning would be posted in the main saloon at one o'clock.

"It seems very mysterious to me," said Florence to Miss Gray, who had come up on declc. " I don't see how they can ever tell where we are with those little telescope things."

" Well, you may be sure they can," said Miss Gray, looking upward at the bridge. " The practical demonstrations of the science of navigation are always impressive to a landsman. The modern sextants, quadrants, chronometers, and the many other things which go to the equipment of a ship like this, are instruments of extreme accurac}^ There is no haphazard sailing for the ship of to-day. She is expected to make her voyages with safety and despatch, and she must make them on time. The voyages of this ship from 'New York to Liverpool seldom vary from the scheduled time of about six days."

" The compass is a very old instrument, I know," said Florence. ''Are the new ones very different from the old ? "

"As it was many centuries ago, the compass is still the chief reliance of the sailor, and is practically unaltered since its invention in 1307. But come, let us take a walk around the deck. T am sure you will feel better. AVe can soon walk a mile."

Coming from the dining-saloon after luncheon the next day, every one was much surprised to find the weather quite changed. The bright sunshine had vanished, and a cold, gray mist shut in the ship. It was difficult to see from one end of the ship to the other. The fog-whistle began to send forth its dreary tones every few minutes.

" I suppose we must have reached the Newfoundland Banks, have we not ? " asked George of a fellow-passenger who was walking i;p and down the deck. " The chart in the saloon shows that we have run 936 miles."

"Yes, these are the Banks," said the gentleman, pulling up the collar of his mackintosh, " There are always rain and fog in this locality."

" It must be very dangerous."

'•Of course the greatest danger is from collision. Every care, however, is taken, and the whistle is kept constantly going. The lookouts in the bow have been doubled, as you see ; and there are two men in that queer little arrangement called the ' crow's nest ' on the foremast. Some fogs lie low

SWSUillM® TlfiAgK' (gEJiHair..

on the water, and it often happens that the men in the crow's nest can see the masts of ships or steamer-funnels or lights directly over the fog."

" What is the reason for the constant fogs on these banks ? " asked George, seeing that his companion was ready to give information.

"That is an interesting question. To be brief, tlie Newfoundland fogs are caused by the meeting of the Arctic current called the ' Cold Wall/ which sweeps downward from the north, and the warm current of the Gulf Stream, which comes upward from the Gulf of Mexico. The Gulf Stream rapidly parts with its heat, causing vapor to rise. You have

D 1 STANCES >

HOM EWARD.

from Sandi/ Honk to C'.Toslllot \ JOSSMiles.thenre toFaslnct 6y Great Circle J730JHiies.

Total saiSMiles.

probably seen the same thing on a smaller scale on the shore in summer, when a cold day follows a season of heat, and the water is warmer than the air."

" These ocean currents are very curious/' said George.

" Yes, and of far-reaching effect. Take the Gulf Stream, for instance. It originates from the great eddy in the Atlantic, such as all oceans have, and starts northward from the Gulf of Mexico, a sun-heated river, deep and strong, flowing six miles an hour. By the time it reaches the island of Nantucket it has spread out widely, and has slackened to three miles an hour. Here we find it battling with the icy Arctic

Ship's Compass.

water ; and from here it passes over to the British Islands, to give them a far milder climate than would be their lot without it."

^' I suppose this ' Cold Wall ' is the current that brings down the icebergs into the Atlantic."

"Precisely. Icebergs, as you know, are gigantic pieces broken off from the Arctic glaciers when they run down into the sea. The force of the waves is constantly breaking off these great pieces of ice, which are sometimes carried far to the south. These bergs show only one-eighth of their bulk above the water. The lower parts are often weighted with large stones and quantities of gravel. As the berg melts, this is dropped to the bottom of the sea. It is supposed that these banks were formed in this way."

" Shall we see any icebergs on this voyage ? " " I scarcely think so. It is too late in the season. I have seen several of them when crossing in the month of April. Sometimes they float far south, but most of them ground in the shallow water of the Banks and Newfoundland shore. If Newfoundland and Nova Scotia should disappear, so that the shore from Greenland to Massachusetts would be nearly

Fishing- Schooner.

straight, we should have plenty of icebergs in Boston Harbor and an almost Arctic climate."

At this point came a shout from the lookouts in the bow, and every one rushed forward to see what wias the matter. The ship was now at half speed. The hoarse voice of the \Vhistle seemed to meet a faint echo from out of the fog. A moment more and the shadowy outline of a fishing-schooner was seen, only to be again lost in the mist.

" That was a ' near thing ! ' " said George's companion. " These Banks fishermen have a dangerous calling, and many a ship has been lost here. The business still goes on, however ; and the great catch of codfish in this locality, which largely supplies the American market, shows no signs of giving out."

Chapter II

Meanwhile Mr. Cartmell had joined mamma, Miss Gray, and the girls, who were comfortably ensconced m one of the spacions drawing-rooms indoors. A cheery coal-fire, such an unusual luxury on shipboard, made one forget both illness

One Corner of the Drawing-Room.

and bad weather. Some of the passengers were reading, some writing, others playing games or doing fancy-work.

" It is difficult to realize that we are at sea, is it not ? " said Mr. Cartmell. ^'- 1 have just been into the library, which I find well stocked with standard books. Here is something relating to Newfoundland, which Miss Gray will read to you ; it is about the first Atlantic cable."

" When was the cable laid, papa ? " asked Nellie. " The first cable was laid, and messages transmitted, in 1857. It then ceased to work. A second cable was laid in 1866, between Cape Clear, Ireland, and Heart's Content, Newfoundland, about 2,500 miles. It was a great step m our progress as a nation. Since then there have been several cables laid. The French cable runs from Brest to St. Pierre, a

small island near Newfoundland. But you will like to read about it yourself."

The weather continuing cold and unpleasant, the Cartmell party went early to their rooms for the night; but sleep seemed impossible with the incessant noise of the fog-whistle. At ten o'clock next morning Mr.

Cartmell, George, and Fred were all ready for their exploring-trip with the officer who had previously extended an invitation.

After a hasty inspection of the kitchens, pantries, etc., and of the accommodations for the second-class and the steerage passengers, their guide ushered them down several iron staircases to the engine-rooms. Here they saw the bewildering mass of complicated and powerful machinery which was forcing the great ship through the ocean at almost railroad speed.

Twin Screws.

"Here is one of the engineers," said their conductor to Mr. Cartmell. " He will be glad to explain the workings of the machinery."

Triple-Expansion Engine.

"We shall be greatly indebted to him, I am sure," returned Mr. Cartmell. "1 am particularly anxious for these boys to see and appreciate the triumphs of modern steamship mechanism. To me it is marvellous."

" In the first place, sir," said the engineer, as he wiped a bit of the glistening brass-work, '-'this is a 'twin-screw ' ship ; that is, it has two shafts and two propellers instead of one. Should one shaft break, the other will carry the ship along. Steam is generated in 12 boilers, each about 18 feet in diameter and 17 feet long.

"There are 102 furnaces. The main boilers will bear a pressure of 165 pounds to the square inch, and some of the plates are 20 feet long. Each set of boilers has a funnel. The top of the funnels is 130 feet from the bottom of the ship.

" The coal-bunkers and the boilers are in water-tight bulkheads, completely shut off from the rest of the hull. Here we have the great- condenser and the pumps for lifting the water. The engines are what are known as 'triple-expansion,' and produce something over 30,000 horse-power. We use over 300 tons of coal a day."

" How do you obtain your fresh water ? " asked Mr. Cartmell.

" From these four great evaporators, which are capable of producing 30 tons of fresh water a day."

" There are also engines for the electric lighting, I suppose ? "

"Yes; we supply power for 1,350 lights, and the current is distributed through the ship by 50 miles of wire. We have machinery for refrigerating purposes also, and we even supply power to drive the hair-brushes in the barber shop," said the engineer, smiling. " Other engines hoist the cargo in and out, and control the rudder, which in ships of this size is entirely under water."

Seeing their interest, the engineer explained some of the machinery in detail ; and two interesting and profitable hours were spent.

The weather remained unfavorable for the noon-time observation ; but at one o'clock the chart was posted as usual in the saloon, with a run marked off of 517 miles. It was of little use to consult watches and clocks, as an hour was gained every day by the passage eastward. Many of the passengers kept their home time as a matter of interest.

Dui'ing the afternoon several porpoises and small whales Avere noticed, their black backs showing for a few seconds as they rose to the surface of the water. Mr. Cartmell explained that these whales were not the sperm or right whales, Avhich are hunted for oil and whalebones. Quantities of seagulls were also to be seen in the wake of the ship, and the passengers amused themselves by throwing pieces of biscuit to them. They appeared to have the most voracious appetites. It Avas strange to see these birds so many hundred miles from land following with no apparent fatigue the rapidly moving ship.

Miss Gray had found some interesting chapters on the North Atlantic Ocean in the book Mr. Cartmell had selected, and was able to give all kinds of information on this subject in answer to the questions of the girls. "How deep is the deepest part of the Atlantic ? " asked Florence, as they paced up and down the deck.

'' It varies very much. The bed of the ocean presents the same irregularities as the land. I believe the greatest depth found in the North Atlantic by the exploring-ship Challenger was 3,875 fathoms, or over 4 miles. The average depth is about 2,000 fa,thoms. There are high peaks, like the Azores Islands, and deep valleys or depressions. The Atlaifitic cables are laid over a comparatively level surface, called the ' telegraphic plateau.' A peculiarity of the Atlantic Ocean is the absence of coral islands so abundant in the Pacific. The Bermuda Islands are the only islands of coral formation in the Atlantic."

'' What gives the color to the sea ? " questioned Nellie, looking far out over the dark green billows crested with foam.

" Scientists say it is due to different animalculae, to the color of the soil, the color of the sky, and to different marine vegetables ; but it is a vexed question, as is also that of the saltness of the sea. The saltness Of the ocean is very uniform ; but it is always less salt in the neighborhood of ice, and for some reason the southern ocean is more salt than the northern. The most civilized nations of the world are found on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, and it is the great commercial highway of the world. Its coasts are better charted, better provided with beacons, and its winds and currents better known, that those of any other ocean."

That evening the passengers who remained out on deck were treated to a beautiful sight in the brilliant display of phosphorescence which surrounded the ship. Indeed, she seemed to be ploughing her way through a sea of liquid silver. A knotted rope trailed overboard produced a beautiful appearance ; and the surging, boiling wake looked like a fairy river of silver. It was difficult to realize that this beautiful spectacle was caused by covintless masses of minute animals.

The fourth day brought a cloudless sky and brilliant sunshine in the mid- Atlantic. The Cartmell party were on deck early enough to see a boat-drill and a fire-drill, which the officer may call at any time, and which keep the men alert and active in case of an emergency. There were twenty large lifeboats, ten on each side. These could be all launched simultaneously if required.

Shortly after breakfast, the captain, who had been conversing with the Cartmell party at table, invited them up on the bridge to inspect the wheel-house. From this lofty point they obtained a fine view of the whole ship. On the bridge was a double row of large brass-bound instruments, looking like clocks, set on a series of heavy posts. These were the instruments for directing the complete staff of seamen forming the watch of the ship, a telegraph for communicating with the engine-rooms, and for replies to signify compliance with orders. There were also telegraphs to the deck machin-