A journal of travels in Egypt, Arabia Petræa, and the Holy Land

Front matter

A

JOURNAL OF TRAVELS

I N

Preface

The main object of the journey, the leading incidents of which are detailed in the following sheets, is sufficiently explained in the first chapter. While travelling for the benefit of my health, much of my time was employed in making critical observations and entering minutes of the result in my daily Journal. From what I now present, the reader will readily perceive that the task was one of considerable labor. The whole work is the result of my own personal observations, with some small additional aid derived by comparing notes with works of previous travellers.

Of my descriptive details, I fear not criticism, but rather court it. I am confident the more closely examined, the stronger will be the evidence of their entire correctness. In describing, I have aimed to do it in the most concise and plain manner, that the reader may take up this volume and intellectually travel the whole journey with me. I have aimed to shun all useless redundancy in language— avoid fanciful embellishments, and give plain, naked truth. Having no sect or party of men to please, I have written wholly independent of bias and prepossession.

On many localities named in the Sacred History, the traveller in the East, will, at this late period, have necessarily to exercise his own judgment. In this particular, I claim not infallibility, but simply the right of speaking and thinking for myself. My decisions, however, are as open to criticism as those of others. Let them be tested by impartial investigation. While the ordinary reader will find in this volume much to please and interest him, the devout Christian will, I trust, find nothing incompatible with true piety. In vi.

PREFACE.

ranging over the principal scenery of the Bible, I saw continually before me much, very much, to strengthen the faith of the Christian. I have consequently made occasional applications of matters and things as I saw them, to the word of sacred prophecy. No Christian can travel over the land of prophetic wonders, without there reading on the very face of nature, the truth of divine Revelation.

It is confidently believed, that no volume of equal dimensions, can be found to contain more information on the countries of which this treats, than the one I here present. I have made no effort to see how much I could write, but have endeavored to see how much could be detailed within any thing like reasonable limits. The world is full of books, furnishing abundance for every one to read. Generally, at the present day, he who seeks information by reading, wishes to obtain it with as little unnecessary expense, labor and time, as may comport with the object of his pursuit. Give us multum in parvo, is the language of two-thirds of readers. Here, then, you have it in one volume. Finally, such as the work is, I commit it to an impartial public, hoping it will entertain all into whose hands it may fall, and especially aid the Christian to a more perfect understanding of the 6acred oracles of God.

THE AUTHOR.

West Bloomfield, N. Y., Jan., 1843.

Chapter I. Page

Embarkation — Arrival at Malta — General Description — Its Inhabitants — Armory of the Knights of St. John— Excursion to Citta Vacchia — Cathedral — St. Paul's Uave — Catacombs — Excursion to St. Paul's Bay. - - - - - - - 11

CHAPTER H.

Departure from Malta — View of Mount iEtna — Scenery in Greece — A Greek Hermit — Patmos— Crete — Storm at Sea — Arrival at Alexandria — Pompey's Pillar— Cleopatra's Needles — Miserable Abodes — Ruins of Cleopatra's Palace — Catacombs — Egyptian Dress — Present Appearance of Alexandria. - - 27

CHAPTER IO.

Arrangements for leaving Alexandria — Monopoly and Travellers' Rights— Setting out for Cairo — The Boat — Selim Hassan and the Boat's Crew — A Dilemma — Sudden Illness — Mahmoudieh Canal and Lake Mareotis — Oppressive Conscription and Awful Mortality — Military Encampment — Egyptian Threshing Floor — Arrival at Atfe — Description — Embarkation on the Nile — Egyptian Agriculture — Sirocco — Visit to an Arab Village. - - - - 40

CHAPTER IV.

Continuance of the Sirocco — Visit to an Arab Village — A ludicrous Bluster — Village Scenery — Rain in Egypt — Slow Progress and Poor Prospects — The Rais' Wife and Children — Crocodiles — A Fight — Determined on a new Mode of Conveyance — All's w ell that ends well — New 3Iode of Travelling— Arab Fishermen— Irrigation of Land in Egypt — A crowded Ferry-boat — Selim's Alarm and Fears — A Night's Lodging — The Pacha's Palace — Ibrahim's Palace — Beautiful Scenery —Arrival at Cairo and Visit to the American Consul. - - 57

CHAPTER V.

Visit to the Pyramids of Gizah— Old Cairo— Island of Roda — The Sphynx — Pyramid Cheops — Examination of its Interior — Ascent to its Top — Magnificent View — Descent— Oppressive Attention of the Arabs — Catacombs. - - - - - 72

CHAPTER VI.

Rambles in Cairo— Slave Market— The Citadel— Bastinado — Immense Burial Ground— Tombs of Mamelukes— The Pacha's Family Tomb — Tombs of the Caliphs— Egyptian Funeral— 31osque — Madhouse—False Tradition — Heliopolis — Description of Cairo — Oppressive Policy of Mehemet AIL - .... 82 viii.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII.

The Author meets two Americans in Cairo— Contemplated Journey through Arabia Petrasa — Discouragements —Preparations to Proceed — Commencement of the Journey — General Appearance of the Desert — Camels and Dromedaries — A Caravan Murdered — Arrival at Suez — Description of Suez — Passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites— -The Fountains of Moses — Journey onward in the Desert — VVell of Howara, or the Marah of Scripture. ----- 97

CHAPTER VIII.

The Elim of Scripture — Rugged and Wild Scenery — Pilgrim Inscriptions — Ruins of Sarabit el Khadim — A rude Fortification — A Battle — Visit, to an Arab Encampment — An Arab Dance by Star-light — A desolate Region— Arrival at Mount Sinai — Reception at the Greek Convent. - - - - - - - 113

CHAPTER IX.

Convent at Mount Sinai — Greek Church — Chapel of the Burning Bush — The Library — Charnel House of Human Skulls and -Bones — The Garden— Rules of the Convent — Accommodations for Strangers — Arabs around the Convent — Sinai and Horeb — Ascent of Mount Sinai — Legend of a Fountain — Chapel of the Virgin — Fountain of Elijah— Chapels of Elijah and Elisha — Impressions on arriving at the Summit of Sinai — Hermits — Plain where the Israelites Encamped — The Rock of Moses — Chapel of the " Forty Martyrs " — Ascent of Mount St. Catharine — A Legend — Vast and astonishing Scenery. - 127

CHAPTER X.

Departure from the Convent— A Bloody Scene Threatened — A Sheik s Tomb — Mountain Scenery — An Alarming Incident— Preparations for Battle — Providential Escape— Majestic Scenery — Gulf of Akabah— A Difficult Pass — Remains of an Ancient Fortress — Arrival at Akabah, and Reception — Parting with Tueileb and his Men — Cities of Ezion-geber and Elath — Present Fortress of Akabah — Visit to the Governor — Pastime during Detention. - 148

CHAPTER XL

Bedoin Arabs — Their General Appearance — Tents and Furniture — Dress — Their Women — Mode of Encamping — Food and Manner at Meals — Diseases — Degradation of their Women — Singular Manner of Courtship — Marriage — Divorces— Circumcision — Funerals— Customs of Salutation— Hospitality— Robbery— Mode of settling Quarrels — Avengers of Blood — Barbarous Customs in War — Amusements — Education— Religion — Prophetic Fulfilment. - 163

CHAPTER XII.

Arrival of Sheik Hassein and Company — Plain Dealing with a Governor — Land of Idumea — Prophecy concerning Idumea— Dreary- Scenery — Mount Seir — Desert of Zin — Kadesh — A Waren — A Chase, but no Battle — Nights in Arabia — An Eclipse — Arab Notions — Ascent of Mount Hor — Aaron's Tomb — View from the Top of Mount Hor — Arrival at Waddy Mousa— Lodgings in a Tomb. » • 179

CONTENTS.

ix.

CHAPTER XIII.

An Arab Feast — Ruins of Petra — The Khasne— Arab Notions — El Syk and the Triumphal Arch — Beautiful Habitation — Tomb with a Greek Inscription— The Theatre — Splendid Structures — Tomb with a Latin Inscription — El Deir — Excavations in the Rock — Description of the Ruined City— Palace of Pharaoh's Daughter — Prophecies concerning Petra— Historical Notice of Petra— Its Fate enveloped in Mystery. - 192

CHAPTER XIV.

Departure from Waddy Mousa — Solemn Reflections— A Large Caravan— Majestic Mountain Scenery — A Startling Alarm — Governor of Gaza, and Guard— The Mirage — Fountains of El Wabeh — Dangers of our Route — Arab Tradition — Prospect of Enemies approaching — Sheik Selim Ebnegaza — Human Bones by the Way — Ruins of Ancient Moladeh — An Alarm and suspected Knavery — Ruins of Ancient Maon — Ruins of Carmel — Ruins of Ziph — Arrival at Hebron. ------- 211

CHAPTER XV.

The Governor of Hebron — Visit to the Tomb of Abraham — A Shameful Repulse — Description of the Tomb — Bazars— Manufactories — Jews in Hebron — General Appearance of the Town — Pools of Hebron — Tombs of Jesse and Abner — Vineyards — Abraham's Tree — Plain of Mamre — Reflections- — Parting with our Arab Guides — -Departure from Hebron — Ruins by the way— Pools of Solomon — Arrival at Bethlehem — Convent and Church of the Nativity — Place of our Saviour's Birth — General Appearance of Bethlehem — Valley of the Shepherds and David's Well— Departure from Bethlehem— Rachel's Tomb — Arrival at Jerusalem. - 227

CHAPTER XVI.

Description of Jerusalem— Buildings and Streets — Bazars and Manufactories — Dress of the Inhabitants — Convents of the different Sects— Jews — American and English Missions — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Stone of Unction — Description of the Sepulchre — Chapels — Cavalry — Impressions — Monkish Legends — Pool of Hezekiah — Site of the Ancient Temple — Mosque of St. Omer — Remnant of Ancient Wall— The Jews' Place of Wailing. 250

CHAPTER XVII.

Place of St Stephen's Martyrdom— Tomb of Joseph and Mary- Garden of Gethsemane — Mount of Olives — Chapel of Ascension — 1 Hebrew Cemetery— Four large Tombs— Village of Siloam — Fountain of the Virgin, or Pool of Bethesda— Pool of Siloam— House of Caiaphas— Tomb of David — Burial Grounds — Lepers — Pools of Gihon — Valley of Hinnom— Potter's Field— Well of Nehemiah— Tombs of the Kings' — Wilderness of St. John— Convent of the Cross — Valley of Rephaim— Valley of Elah. 269

CHAPTER XVIII.

Excursion to the Dead Sea— Valley of the Kedron—Convent of Santa Saba— Church— Tomb of St. Saba— Human Skulls— The Dead

1*

X.

CONTENTS.

Sea — Buoyancy of its Waters — Description — Story of Costigan — Arab Horsemanship and Manoeuvres — River Jordan — Greek Pilgrims — Jericho Destroyed — Fountain of Elisha — Mount of Temptation — An Arab Dance — Ruins of Ancient Jericho— A Desolate Region — A Chase after Wild Boars — Village of Bethany — Return to Jerusalem. 284

CHAPTER XIX.

Preparation for Departure — Last View of the Holy City — Samuel's Tomb— Ruins of Bethel — Inviting Scenery — A Might's Lodging — Joseph's Tomb — Jacob's Well — Mount Gerizim and Mount Ebal — Nablous, the Ancient Sychar — Remains of the Samaritans — Ruins of Samaria — A Beautiful Landscape — All's Well that Ends Well — A Wedding Party — Janeen, or Jezreel — 'Mount Gilboa — Scripture Scenery Identified — Arrival at Nazareth. ... 302

CHAPTER XX.

Description of Nazareth— Church of the Annunciation — Virgin's Grotto — Joseph's Workshop — Sacred Stone Table — Mount of Precipitation— Cana of Galilee — Mountain of the Beatitudes' — Town of Tiberias— Sea of Tiberias — Mount Tabor — A Band of Robbers — From Nazareth to Mount Carrael — Ruins of Megiddo— River Kishon — Caipha— Convent on Mount Carmel— Extensive View from Carmel — Arrival at Acre — Description — Awful Effects of War. - 319

CHAPTER XXI.

Embarkation at Acre — View of Tyre — Perilous Storm — Landing at Sidon — English Consular Agent — Description of Sidon — Lady Stanhope — Arrival at Beyroot — Description — A singular Druse Ornament — Parting with Companions — The Jews in Palestine—General Remarks on the Holy Land — Conclusion. - 337

JOURNAL OF TRAVELS.

CHAPTER L

Introduction

Embarkation — Arrival at Malta— General Description — Its Inhabitants — Armory of the Knights of St. John— Excursion to Citta Vaccina — Cathedral— St. Paul's Cave — Catacombs — Excursion to St. Paul's Bay.

Frequent reading of Eastern scenery had greatly interested me from the very days of boyhood. Often had I contemplated the grandeur of objects along the great river Nile — the city of the Califs — Egypt's towering pyramids, her colossal Sphynx, her numerous catacombs, with her ruined cities and fallen temples. Often, too, had I fancied the picturesque appearance of a caravan traveling over the deserts of Arabia. In later years, my profession led me to study and contemplate everything connected with sacred history. The reading of the Sacred Scriptures often awakened in me an ardent desire to visit the principal places of their historical scenery. But it was not till within a very few months of my actual embarkation for the East that I had dared anticipate a journey in Africa and Asia. By too much study and intense labor, my health had been seriously impaired. Suffering greatly under an affected state of the nervous system, I was advised by physicians to take a voyage to sea. I chose the

1*2

EMBARKATION.

direction of the Mediterranean, with the intention, should my health permit, of visiting Egypt and the Holy Land.

On the 16th of October, 1841, 1 embarked at Boston, on board a new, elegant, and fast-sailing barque, bound directly for Malta. The morning was pleasant and the wind fair. We soon passed the outer light of the harbor, where we dismissed our pilot, and, ere sunset, had left behind us the Eastern end of Cape Cod. This was our farewell glimpse of American soil. Here, as we fairly entered upon "the vast world of waters," a peculiar pensiveness seized upon my mind. There is an indescribable charm that links one to the land of his nativity. As the wanderer takes the last view of his native soil, the thousand endearing friends and objects left behind rush upon his mind like an avalanche. Tender emotions swell his bosom. It is then he sets a true estimate on all he has parted with. Then, for a few moments, the interests of the future are lost in the melancholy of the present. Such were my feelings.

I will not burden the reader with the particulars of a monotonous sea voyage. It was prosperous, though, as might be expected at that season of the year, rough and stormy. I suffered greatly with sea-sickness during almost the entire passage. In thirteen days out, we passed Corvo and Flores, two of the Western Islands ; and during the two following days passed the entire group. On the 14th of November, we passed through the Straits of Gibraltar with a fair wind. On the 19th, we passed Cape Bon, on the coast of Tunis, and on the same day the island of Panteliaria. On Sunday morning, the

ARRIVAL AT MALTA.

21st, we entered the harbor of Malta, and anchored at 1 1 o'clock. Thus we completed our passage from Boston to Malta in thirty-six days. We were placed in quarantine for one day. There was neither justice nor necessity for this measure ; but whoever travels in the East will find, that quarantine laws and Christianity are two things.

Immediately after our quarantine restrictions had closed, the clerk of the American consul at Malta came on board, and by him I was very politely conducted to the office of that functionary. The consul received me very cordially, and gave me some essential information relative to exchanges, diet, &c. During my stay on the island, he treated me with the utmost kindness and attention, and rendered me several favors which I shall ever remember with gratitude.

The island of Malta is about twelve miles wide, twenty long, and sixty in circumference. It lies in the 36th degree of North latitude, and the ] 5th of East longitude, and is situated fifty-four miles South of Sicily. In its immediate vicinity are the small islands of Gozo and Carminoi, both of which are subject to the same government and regulations with Malta. The population of Malta, alone, is about 120,000, including the strong garrison kept on the island. The surface, though some undulating, is rather level, and is in no part mountainous, The soil, though rather poor, is cultivated with great industry, and is made to produce a very considerable. The island is entirely bare of wood for fuel. This article is brought from Sicily, Naples, and other places. Orange and lemon-trees are abundant,

PRODUCTIONS CLIMATE.

and bear very fine fruit. The fig-tree flourishes in Malta, and yields well. The pomegranates are very fine, and of a beautiful flavor. There are also vineyards on the island, that yield excellent fruit. I saw some apples, but of a very inferior kind. Vegetables are plenty in the market, and of a good quality. Beef and poultry are good, but fish are rare and of an inferior kind. The goats of the island are very fine, yielding a large supply of milk. In Valetta it is customary for the milkman to lead about a number of goats in the morning and evening. Stopping at a door, a customer sends or brings out a small pitcher, when the goat-herd kneels down and milks from the animal the quantity desired. The milk of sheep is also used, particularly in making curd, which many eat as a luxury.

The climate of Malta is warm, and the heat in the summer is said to be often oppressive. It very seldom rains there during the summer months, but there are heavy falls of dew. I was informed that when the South wind blows in summer, the heat is very prostrating. The atmosphere assumes a hazy appearance, and the air sometimes has a disagreeable odor. Its effects on furniture and book-covers is, to crack and warp them. After this wind has lasted a day or two, the air becomes still and confined, producing a sensation exceedingly uncomfortable. This wind, which comes from the heated plains of Africa, is not purified from the corrupt miasma it contains by passing over the narrow space of water lying between this island and that continent.

The wind, called the Sirocco, is prevalent in Malta. It is said to prevail most in September, but is not con-

SIROCCO.

fined to that month alone. I witnessed one of those winds while I was there. Persons with diseased lungs suffer more or less from its effects. Hence, Malta is not healthy for those laboring under pulmonary complaints. During the prevalence of the Sirocco, strangers are generally affected with great lassitude and debility. Anything painted when this wind blows will never set well. Glue loses much of its adhesive qualities ; bright metals become tarnished, and, from the dampness of the atmosphere, the pavement of streets is sometimes quite wet. This wind occasionally continues a week, and even longer, blowing sometimes with great vehemence. I shall hereafter have occasion to allude to the Sirocco.

The people are generally represented as industrious. This may be true of the greatest number ; but, so far as I saw, there are large exceptions. Lazy loungers are seen in every direction, and beggars meet you at every corner. Many well-dressed ladies may be seen in Malta, mostly the wives and daughters of British officers and merchants. This class, however, includes a very considerable number of Maltese ladies. Many of the native ladies are pretty featured, with brunette countenances ; but the fashion of their dress is rather peculiar to themselves. The best class generally attire themselves much like nuns ; wearing no bonnets, but in room of one a kind of head-dress called Sifaldette. This generally consists of a piece of black silk, commonly the size of a shawl, falling over the back, shoulders, and arms. It has a rather neat, though sanctimonious appearance. The men have more generally adopted the English costume. The chief difference is the cap,

DRESS.

which resembles a long woolen bag hanging down on the back, and dyed with various colors. The cap of a Maltese often forms a receptacle for small articles which he wishes to carry about with him ; and even sometimes answers for his money-purse. I have since noticed a very similar kind of cap, worn by the Maronites of Mount Lebanon. A girdle is still in use among the Maltese of the lower order. With this the pantaloons are confined round the waist, and it is generally three or four yards in length. It is not common to see those in native dress, with a jacket — its place being supplied by what is called a sedria. This is often ornamented in front with several rows of round silver buttons, as large as small birds' eggs. At other times, instead of these, the buttons consist of large pieces of money, such as quarters of dollars and sterling shillings, with long shanks fastened on them. A Maltese, thus set off, cuts a spruce figure, with a long curl hanging down each side of the face, and having his ringers set out with massy rings, of which they are peculiarly fond. The dress of the poorer class, both male and female, is very ordinary. Barefooted men and women are the most frequently met ; and the filthiness of such is by far too common a trait.

The native population of Malta is Roman Catholic ; and in Valetta, the frequent ringing of bells every day is peculiar. The number of priests and monks on the island would astonish any American Protestant. They are known by their dress ; and you will meet one of them every twenty rods in Valetta, go what course you will. It is said that, on the island, the Roman Catholic priests of various orders number

RELIGION.

at least one thousand, and some think considerably more. Such a numerous priesthood of the kind must hold a strong and, in some respects, an unfavorable influence over the people. Where Romanism holds the ascendancy, I believe general education is never promoted. This misfortune is very generally seen in Malta ; for the common class have very little, or no education.

Like all Catholic countries, religious holydays and processions are numerous in Malta. The most imposing of these processions is the one seen on Good Friday, which is intended to celebrate the death and passion of our Saviour. It takes place in Valetta, and is attended by the greater part of the clergy of the island, with the distinctive banners of their order, and their own peculiar dress. The train leaves the church of ta Gesu a little before sunset ; the priests and friars walking in file on each side of the street, with huge lighted wax tapers in their hands, and chanting as they follow the statues which are carried before them at equal distances in the procession. The statues or images are in general of a large size, and represent the various sufferings of the Saviour until he is laid in the sepulchre, which is a splendid canopy, tasselated with gold, having a figure large as life stretched beneath them. The rear is generally brought up by persons covered in white or black garments, with eyeholes to see through, dragging at their feet chains of different lengths and dimensions. This is a penance which these poor victims of credulity inflict upon themselves for the commission of some offence, or the fulfilment of a vow they have made in time of affliction. It is not un frequent to

HISTORICAL NOTICE.

see the ankles of some of these individuals very much lacerated and bleeding by the weight of the chains they drag behind them. After traversing several streets, the procession returns to the church from whence it came out.

Malta is supposed to be the Melita of the New Testament, on which St. Paul was shipwrecked, and subsequently introduced Christianity. On this account it is greatly venerated by the Romanists. The island obtained but little notice in antiquity; and when the apostle was shipwrecked there, is described as inhabited by a barbarous people. Its importance began in the 16th century, when it was ceded by Charles V., of Germany, to the Knights of St. John, of Jerusalem, as a compensation for the loss of Rhodes. Its fortifications were then greatly strengthened, and it was considered the last maritime bulwark against the Turks. In 1565, Solymon sent against Malta a most formidable fleet and army ; and the siege which ensued is one of the most celebrated in history. After prodigious efforts, the Ottoman army was completely repulsed, and the Knights were left in peaceable possession of the island till 1798. At that time Napoleon, with an expedition destined for Egypt, suddenly appeared before this island, and took possession of it. In 1800, Great Britain reduced it by blockade, and has ever since retained it in possession.

Valetta, the pleasant capital of the island, is a well built town, conveniently situated on a promontory anciently called Shoab-en-Ras —the jutting out of the cape. The appearance from the sea is highly picturesque. The present population is estimated at

VALETTA.

about 28,000. The first stone :>f this city was laid by the Grand Master La Valetta, from whom it takes its name, on the 28th of March, 1566, and completed by his successor in 1571. The streets are regular and well paved ; but many of them are very steep, with side-walks cut in stairs. The town is kept very clean, being swept every morning by convicts of the state prison. The houses are uniformly built of stone, and are generally three stories high. Besides the windows opening into the street and yard, each dwelling has one or two balconies, jutting out several feet from the walls, and varying from six to twenty in length. These awkward protuberances are sometimes open and sometimes covered on the top, and are supplied with glass windows which can be opened or shut at pleasure. Though these balconies detract from the beauty of the buildings, they are, notwithstanding, very comfortable retreats to the inmates in summer and winter, where they can see all that transpires in the street wdthout being exposed to the effect of either. The buildings generally have flat roofs. The principal street is the Stada Reale, on which is situated the palace of the present governor, but formerly that of the Grand Master of the Order. The fortifications that surround the town are immensely strong, and very high. The whole circumference of the wall is two miles and a-half. The harbor, scarcely rivalled by any other in the world, is one of J he principal stations for the English fleet.

The palace, besides a very tolerable collection of pictures and some handsome tapestry representing scenes in India and Africa, contains the armory of the Order of St. John. These interesting relics are kept so

ANCIENT ARMORY.

in a large room which extends the whole length of the building. Among the arms are ninety complete coats of armour for mounted Knights. These complete suits are placed upright on stands, along the length of the room. It is said a trial was made of the strength of one of these suits, by discharging several musket balls against it, at sixty yards distance. The only effect they produced, was slightly to indent it. I marked one suit of gigantic dimensions. The helmet alone is said to weigh thirty-seven pounds. Close by this is a cannon made of tarred rope, bound round a thin lining of copper, and covered on the outside with a coat of plaster painted black. This singular specimen of ancient warfare, was taken from the Turks, during one of their attacks on the city of Rhodes. It is about five feet long and ^hree inches in the calibre.

Several parts of the walls are covered with various kinds of ancient warlike instruments, such as crossbows, maces, javelins, battle-axes, &c. A man of feeling cannot gaze upon these relics of the prowess of by-gone years, without a touching reflection on the vanity of human ambition. Where now are the mighty men, who in days of yore wielded these weapons of bloodshed and death ? Gone, all gone, long since, to the silent grave ! " How are the mighty fallen, and the weapons of war perished ! "

In one part of the palace is a chapel, sufficient to accommodate a congregation of about three hundred. Worship, according to the rites of the church of England, is performed here every Sabbath. I attended worship there the only Sabbath I spent in Malta. The day was stormy, the assembly small and the services

CITTA VACCHIA.

rather dull. The preacher, I believe, was not the one who generally officiates in the place, but was a chaplain in the navy. Psalms were given out to be sung, but I heard no singing. The military band played a psalm-tune as many times as there were verses in the psalm, and this, I believe was all. It appeared to me much like the kind of music used at the worship of Nebuchadnezzar's great image, set up on the plain of Dura. The sermon was much more prosy than energetic.