Around the world due west to the far east

Front matter

JAPAN REFERENCE

LIBRARY rO-

N E W YORK

Preface

Modern facilities for travel are now so great that the circumnavigation of the globe is comparatively a small matter. Travel is a great educator. A Spanish proverb says, " He who would bring home the wealth of the Indies, must carry the wealth of the Indies with him." It is certain that to bring back a considerable amount of information the tourist must carry with him no small degree of knowledge. This author can make no special claim in that respect, however much he may appreciate the truth of the proverb. But whether or not one starts thoroughly furnished with knowledge, he can appreciate the truth of Alcott's words, " Traveling is no fool's errand to him who carries his eyes and itinerary with him."

An enormous amount of work in travel, reading, observing, and writing was put into the five months occupied in making this journey; that much can be said with absolute truth and with equal frankness. The Calvary Church generously allowed a year for the trip ; but a sense of duty to the work left behind forbade the full acceptance of the kind offer.

There is some gain, however, in seeing how much can be done in five months. Jules Verne

Vlll PREFACE

was daring in his story of a trip around the world in eighty days ; but with the opening of the Trans-Siberian Railway the journey may be made, with but little fatigue and equally little risk, in thirty-three days.

This volume would have appeared sooner but for a disastrous fire which necessitated delay ; but it has been thought wise to allow the text to remain as it was originally written. The author indulged in some rather bold prophecies regarding the relation of Hawaii to the United States, and also touching other matters ; and it is strangely interesting to see how literally history has fulfilled these predictions.

If the reader can get any part of the enjoyment out of this trip which the writer had in making the journey, investigating historical facts, and recording his observations, the reader will not have read, nor the writer have traveled and written, in vain.

The Author.

New York, Calvary Study, Aug. i, 1900.

Contents

CHAPTER PAGE

I. The Start i

A Glimpse of Chicago — Salt Lake City — Our Baptist Work — Some Other Matters — What About Mormonism ?

II

THE word " Utah " is of Indian derivation, and is said to mean, " A home on a mountain " ; it is related to the word Ute, the name of the Indian tribe. The Territory contains a little over eighty-four thousand square miles, and the yearly value of its farm products is not less than ten million dollars. On Monday morning, after the two days of rest in Salt Lake City, in company with Rev. S. G. Adams, who is full of facts regarding Utah and of zeal in religious work, the journey of thirty-seven miles was made from Salt Lake City north to Ogden. Ogden is a railway and manufacturing town ; it has an elevation of over four thousand feet, and a population of thirty thousand persons. It gives employment to a great number of men, it being the location of the shops of five leading trunk lines. It is beautifully situated on the west slope of the Wasatch Mountains. Its wide, well-paved, and pleasantly shaded streets are lighted with electricity. Pure water abounds ; and the people, like those of many other sections, affirm that there is no better climate in the United States. Rev. Dwight Spencer was largely instrumental in the building of the ornate Baptist church in

is

Ogden ; and here, Rev. Richard Hartley, now so much esteemed as the pastor of the Hope Church, New York, was once the pastor. He and his wife are still appreciatively remembered. The present pastor, Rev. L,. L,. Crandall, is doing excellent work. We met him and the pastors of most of the other churches in the study of the Methodist pastor at their regular Monday meeting. The sanctified common sense, pulpit and pastoral ability, and religious zeal of Pastor Crandall, bear constant fruit. The pleasant drive, the hospitable welcome by Mrs. Crandall, and the fraternal spirit shown in many ways made a charming memory as the long journey was resumed that beautiful afternoon.

Oases in the Desert. — Already we had crossed weary miles of dreary deserts. Fortunately, however, we were not troubled by alkali dust. It was seen all along the road, making the sand quite white, but recent rains had so completely laid it that it caused us no annoyance. As one looked out on the hundreds of miles of desert and sage brush a parody on the words of Tennyson came constantly to mind :

Oh, the dreary, dreary sageland ! Oh, the barren, barren moor !

But there are oases in this desert. One of these was at Humboldt ; and a fine illustration is there given of the magical effects produced by irrigation. Wearied with the constant view of sand and sagebrush, the valley in this neighborhood

OGDEN TO SAN FRANCISCO I J

presented a most delightful appearance. It is eighty miles in length and ten in breadth, and is occupied by agriculturists and stock raisers. A river flows through the valley, making it fertile and beautiful. This river runs nearly three hundred miles and then pours its waters into Humboldt Lake, which has no visible outlet. The railway follows the river and also the old immigrant trail. Here we saw many specimens of the "noble red men." As seen crouching or skulking by the railway stations he is very red, but by no means noble. At Winnemucca, named from a famous Indian chief who made his home in this region, other red men, their wives and children, were seen ; here also there was a delightful oasis and an opportunity for dropping postal cards to friends at home.

We were now one hundred and thirty-eight miles distant from Wadsworth. This, as a whole, is the most uninteresting of all the deserts crossed in this transcontinental journey. Some distance beyond, at Mirage, we had a fine opportunity of witnessing the phenomenon peculiar to the desert ; the optical illusion was perfect, and it has often allured immigrants to seek refreshment where none was to be had, a picture of life in too many of its sad features. But Wadsworth is a veritable boon in this dreary waste of sand. We were soon in what may be called the lake region of Nevada. Shortly after leaving Reno we begin to climb the Sierra Nevada range. The range grows rapidly steeper ; for over fifty miles the ascent continues. Very grand scenery

B stretches out on every side ; we are climbing to Summit Station, the highest point reached by the Southern Pacific Railway from Ogden to San Francisco. The road follows from Reno the course of the Truckee River. Towering rocks, foaming rivers, and pine-clad mountains attract, delight, and inspire the traveler. Truckee stands at the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada — the snowy saw, as the words mean — mountains. This is truly an Alpine village. Lumber is the leading industry. A fellow-traveler tells us that he can remember when there was a dense forest where now the village stands. Up we climb. We are now seven thousand feet above the sea. Here are lakes Tahoe, Donner, Webber, and Independence. Donner Lake is made memorable because thirty-four of the Donner party died of starvation on its shores in the year 1846. Bierstadt has made the beauty of this lake, high up among the Sierras, familiar by his paintings. Here are great mountain peaks : Mount Ralston, nine thousand one hundred and forty feet ; Mount Tallac, nine thousand seven hundred and fifteen feet ; Pyramid Peak, ten thousand fifty-two, and Job's Peak, ten thousand six hundred and thirty-seven.

For forty miles there is an almost constant line of snow sheds to protect the road during winter travel. These sheds very unpleasantly interrupt the view, but they are a necessary evil. We experienced cold weather, and were glad to have the steam turned on to make the cars comfortable. The contrast between this cold and the heat in New York on Sunday, June 3, was certainly very marked. Two great engines dragged the train upward, while we could get glimpses of Donner Lake gleaming like a diamond in its setting of granite. A panorama of pine-clad hills and of splintered mountain peaks stretched around us. Soon we reached the summit, which for many years rightly claimed the honor of being the highest railway point in our country. This is the " divide," whence flow streams by many courses until they unite in the Sacramento.

San Francisco. — Going through Colfax and Sacramento in the night, we reached Oakland in the morning, and were soon in San Francisco. It was with no little emotion that the first view of the bay was taken. We all know that San Francisco Bay ranks as one of the great harbors of the world. It is a land-locked sheet of water about fifty miles long. Its shipments are great, and it lies at the terminus of several transcontinental routes. The first view of San Francisco from the deck of the ferryboat is charming. It is truly a city set on a hill. It is the most hilly city I have ever seen. It cannot but command attention ; it is almost equally sure to elicit admiration. The older houses are florid in their architecture ; the newer buildings, such as the Mills Building and the Y. M. C. A., are plainer, and so in much better taste. The fires which have swept the city have improved it greatly, but there is still work for fire to do in destroying the unsightly wooden buildings which remain.

How cool are the trade winds ! To one just from New York they were a benediction. An overcoat was necessary for comfort. By the time these winds get inland they lose their coolness, but at the city they are a cause for constant gratitude. Several squares are worthy of consideration. On Portsmouth Square, on July 8, 1846, Captain Montgomery, of the United States Sloop-of-war Portsmouth, then lying in the bay, at the command of Commodore Sloat, raised the American flag. This square was then known as the " Yerba Buena " ; it is now Portsmouth Square, San Francisco. A salute of twenty-one guns from the Portsmouth announced the fact that the United States had taken possession of Northern California. Montgomery Street was named in honor of the captain. In 1849 a S1 g na l station was established on Telegraph Hill to give notice of the approach of vessels.

Under the guidance of Pastor Hobart, of Oakland, a visit was made to the Cliff House and the Seal Rocks. Mayor Sutro, whose name is familiar all over the country, here has his home. The diplomacy by which he compelled the railway company to carry passengers for five instead of fifteen cents is well known in the Bast. From what is known as Inspiration Point a fine view is obtained of the Pacific Ocean and of the Golden Gate. The Seal Rocks and their strange occupants are deeply interesting. Three conical rocks rise from twenty to fifty feet, and on these rocks often scores of these marine mammals, basking in the sun or tumbling into the sea, may be seen. These seals seem to be quite tame ; they are protected by law, and they seem to be aware that their safety is assured.

A Trip to Oakland. — Pastors Hill and Hobart, of Oakland, honored the visitor with a call at the Palace Hotel, San Francisco, and arranged for a trip to Oakland, and a meeting with the pastors of the two cities. Oakland is called the " Garden City." It is situated on the east shore of San Francisco Bay, and it slopes down to the waters from the mountains which rise back of the city. It gets its name from a grove of evergreen oaks in which originally it was built. Wealthy merchants of Oakland and San Francisco have beautiful villas on the foothills, and some of their homes will rank with the finest homes in the suburbs of New York. Indeed, Oakland is destined to become one of the most beautiful residence cities of the West. One can reach Oakland from San Francisco every fifteen minutes.

Under the chaperonage of the two excellent pastors named, a visit was made to California College, at Highland Park, Oakland. At the college Dr. Samuel B. Morse, president and professor of mental and moral philosophy, met us, and courteously showed us over the buildings and part of the grounds. A good beginning has been made here for an enlarged work. The location is superb. It is two hundred feet above the bay, and overlooks the city of Oakland and commands a view of San Francisco Bay, reaching from the Golden Gate to San Jose. The campus contains twelve acres, beautifully set with trees and shrubbery. The " Mary Stuart Hall " is commodious and attractive. On the second floor is the Rockefeller Library. The Gray mansion was erected in 1888 by Baptist women in California, and a year later the " Hook Memorial " as a dining hall and dormitory. There is the beginning of a cabinet and museum. The cost of board and tuition is very reasonable, and every opportunity of acquiring knowledge will be afforded those who are seeking an education under Baptist auspices.

Not far distant, at Berkeley, is the University of California. This is a State institution. It is an integral part, perhaps we might say the climax, of the public educational system of the State. The United States and private donors have united with California in furnishing facilities for instruction in literature, in science, law, medicine, dentistry, pharmacy, and art. The opportunities of instruction are open to all who are properly qualified, without distinction of sex. Here is a great institution of learning, thoroughly equipped in all respects with libraries, museums, buildings, grounds, faculties of instruction, and, in a word, a modern outfit for giving students the best facilities and the latest results in many departments. There are older institutions in the Hast still better equipped ; but this university is vigorously following their lead.

Seldom are two institutions of learning, the one a struggling denominational college and the other a great State institution, brought into so near neighborhood and so sharp a comparison. What in these conditions is the duty educationally of the various denominations? This is really a very serious and an equally practical question. We may say that these State colleges are non- Christian, or perhaps, in some cases, anti-Christian. But ought we to allow them to remain in that attitude toward Christ and the church? Ought we not to rescue them from their hostility or indifference ? Can we not do it ? What right have Christian teachers and pastors to remain indifferent to the atmosphere and instruction in State colleges ? Ought not our boys and girls to Lave the best education which they can procure ? Will they not need in the warfare of life the best possible outfit? Must their denominational loyalty subject them to educational disadvantages ? Is it true denominational loyalty to accept such disadvantages? These are important questions. They are not asked with any desire to depreciate the work done in California College ; they are merely suggested by the visit to those two schools of learning. Might we not often do the greatest possible service to Christ and the church by putting into these great State schools as professors, men distinguished by learning, by ability to teach, by personal magnetism, by social attractiveness, and by earnest Christian character and denominational loyalty? Where could men of these characteristics find a grander field? They might give at certain times each week lectures on Christian evidences and denominational doctrines. Such men would soon leaven these institutions with evangelical and Christian doctrine and with a knowledge of and regard for the distinctive principles of different denominations. This matter is surely worthy the thought of our ablest leaders.

A Glimpse of "Chinatown." — A Christian man or woman does not care to see the seamy and dark side of life, except so far as the sight may stimulate desire and effort to improve the condition of our sinful and sorrowing fellowcreatures. With this desire this visit was made. Pastor Hobart and two other gentlemen, of whom one was a federal officer and the other a municipal officer, the former at least being also an earnest Christian worker, were the guides on this visit. Our Home Mission Chinese church is a veritable oasis in this fearful moral desert. We there saw a little company earnestly engaged in the study of the Bible. The leader was giving an exposition of Scripture, and his Chinese hearers were following him, pencil in hand, and with much sympathy and interest. The joss-house was visited ; so were opium dens and other abodes of sin and varied forms of indescribable wretchedness. Such sights, such odors, such sins ! One visit is enough for a lifetime. The sight of the sinful and miserable women would move the hardest heart. One wonders that life is possible in such a fetid and poisonous atmosphere. It is said that one poison neutralizes another, and that one vile odor acts as a disinfectant of other vile odors. Never did the work of our Home Mission Society seem to be more needed ; never did it appear to be so beneficent as in the contrasts seen in these vile purlieus.

A Meeting of Brethren. — Through the courtesy of Rev. Messrs. Hill and Hobart an opportunity was given at Oakland to meet many of the pastors of that city and of San Francisco. The meeting was held in one of the parlors of the Y. M. C. A. Rev. H. L. Dietz, a German pastor in San Francisco, presided. Rev. Doctor Abbott, known and loved East and West, made the address of welcome. The visitor then spoke at length, and prayer was offered by Doctor Morse. This tender prayer gave great comfort to a traveler with many weary miles before him and so many dear friends left behind him. It would be pleasant to mention the names of all who were present did space permit. Their fraternal courtesy was much appreciated, and their kind words were an inspiration and a benediction. The world is small after all, and one finds former friends everywhere, and also evidences that his work in one part of the field sends out some helpful influences to brothers working at remote points in their own varied spheres. Our cause in these two cities, and throughout California, is advancing. The brethren are taking heart ; they see brighter days in the near future ; indeed, these brighter days have already dawned.

JAPAN REFERENCE LIBRARY

NEW YORK

The night has now reached its noon. Bags must be packed, and the last preparations made for sailing on the morrow. The real journey around the world will then begin. Then, for a time, farewell to family, church, and country, and welcome to the deep, blue Pacific, and to lands in and beyond the Pacific.

Ill

IT was with equal surprise and pleasure, on coming into the Palace Hotel, that a note was received from Mrs. M. E. Field, of the Calvary Church, New York, stating that she was at the Grand Hotel, and was to sail the next morning on the "Australia," bound for Honolulu. Her surprise was equally great, and perhaps her pleasure not less, when her pastor called on her the next morning and informed her that he also was to sail on the same steamer. She was with a party of friends from Los Angeles, California, who had planned to spend a month among the fairy-like islands which compose the " Paradise of the Pacific." We were soon all on board, and at 10 a. m., Saturday, June 15, 1895, we sailed out on our journey of six days for those historic and now quite famous islands. One passenger at least bade a long good-bye to America for his journey of months over broad seas and continents. He now realized that he was really off for his around-the-world trip, though until now that realization had not fully come.

Soon we passed through the narrow strait, known to all the world as the "Golden Gate." It is impossible not to have serious reflections at such a time. What perils and experiences may be before the traveler? When will home and church be seen again? Such thoughts would come, however brave and trustful one might strive to be ; but committing to Him who holds the waters in the hollow of his hand all who are dearest, we pushed out into the broad and blue Pacific.

Compared with the Atlantic this sea doubtless deserves its name. It has been called "a lazy, lolling, good-natured sea," but as we entered upon it, it was far from being good-natured and lazy. It was angry, wild, and fierce. Some passengers could not forget the recent fate of the ill-starred " Colimo," and they were nervous and troubled to no small degree. The " Australia " has the name of being a bad " roller," and on this occasion she fully justified her bad reputation. She rolled constantly, and frequently the waves dashed over her decks. It was necessary to have all the chairs lashed firmly in order that passengers could keep their seats. In some cases it was also necessary to pass a rope in front of those who were seated to which they might cling to make their safety assured. An ominous silence reigned throughout the ship. The tables were well-nigh deserted ; and the passengers slipped off quietly to their cabins. A very small meal fully satisfied this writer, and that was eaten on deck ; but every other meal was taken at the table. When Sunday morning came silence still reigned over the empty decks and in the deserted saloon. There was no service of any kind, although there were three clergymen on board.

But after about twenty-four hours had passed the sea became calm, and passengers who had not been seen since the first hour of our journey began to emerge from their cabins. The Pacific now began to justify its name. Another day passed and the great ocean became smooth as a sea of glass, and of a lovely sapphirine blue. No other sea is of such a beautiful color. It is widely different from the Atlantic. The Atlantic is gray, wrinkled, crabbed ; the Pacific, in its normal condition, is serene, blue, and sublimely tranquil.

The Passengers. — There were sixty in the cabin. Among them was our omniscient friend, Rev. Joseph Cook, ll. d., who was to make his second trip around the world. Thirteen years before this he made the trip, lecturing in Australia, in India, and in other countries ; he now proposed to revisit these countries. Possibly he would spend considerable time in Japan. All students of current history must be interested in the new Japan which is now challenging the attention of the civilized world. It has been said that Doctor Cook's mission is to oil the wheels of the universe ; this writer's humble but useful office on this trip was to turn the faucet and let the lubricating fluid flow. Perhaps there are a few questions which we did not fully settle ; but the number which we did not discuss, and in our opinion partially settle, is very small. Doctor

Cook has a unique mission ; and nobly does he perform its duties. He has stood firmly for the harmony between science and religion ; and he has been a stout advocate of a conservative and yet progressive theology. Boston has honored him, and he has honored Boston. He was to give several lectures in Honolulu, and to be the guest of Chief Justice Judd, who was his classmate at Yale College.

Rev. Dr. Pease was returning to his mission field on the Marshall Islands, and the " Morning Star " was waiting in Honolulu to carry him to his field. There were also other missionary workers, both men and women, who were going to various fields. There were also students from Princeton, Yale, Harvard, and other colleges, who were returning to their homes in Honolulu. There was a party of teachers from San Francisco, among them a young lady who received as a prize for popularity the tickets for the round trip. There was also the party from Los Angeles, of which Mrs. Field was one ; and there were musicians on their way to Australia on a professional tour. We had a diversified and altogether an interesting company. It was quite different in many ways from the groups one meets on board of the leading Atlantic liners.

Nearing the Islands. — Day after day passed as we plowed our way through this glorious sea. Expectation was on tiptoe as we were nearing the Hawaiian Islands. There was a wonderful charm in being far out on this pacific sea ;

the stars never seemed so bright, the breezes never so soft and alluring. Stirring were our emotions when we first saw the " Southern Cross," and tender our gratitude, as on the morning of the sixth day we got our first glimpse of Molokai. This island is widely known as the abode of the wretched lepers, who unfortunately are too numerous on these islands. All the morning the soft breezes kissed our cheeks. The air soon became laden with odors of tropical fruits and flowers, and birds of many kinds came out to greet and welcome us. It seemed as if we were nearing a veritable paradise as we approached Honolulu. We had read much of this picturesque and delightful land, but our realizations soon far surpassed our anticipations. Some one has expressed this wish :

Oh, had we some bright little isle of our own, In the blue summer ocean, far off alone.

Well, the United States will, we believe, soon have this wish realized here in these tropical regions. We are all watching for the island toward which we are making. Yonder is Diamond Head rising grandly from the sea ; it is a great extinct volcano. Other rocks are quickly seen, but they promise us nothing of the vernal vales which we know lie beyond. But the moment the ship rounds the point of the famous headland, the fairy-like coast is revealed. Here are great rocks browned by the bronze of the lava which centuries ago flowed down their sides ; here is a beach of dazzling whiteness ;

here are groves of cocoa palms, and everywhere is the glorious sea, like a huge emerald, as it reflects the tints from its coral bottom. Thus we approach Honolulu. The scene changes. The mountains become gloriously green ; vistas of Eden open to our gaze. The sea rolls in its long and alluring waves upon the reef. Within the reef the water is tranquil ; it is a tideless river. There lies the town. Were ever before such tints seen in any water ? To what shall they be compared ? They look as if one of the glorious rainbows so common in this tropical region had been wrecked, and all its fragments were lying strewn on this glorious sea. Never had we seen such colors on water. We may never see them surpassed. It was a foretaste of the sea of glass.

Our students are wild with delight as their friends rush up the gang-plank. Look at these groups of Hawaiian boys in the water. They are great masculine — decidedly masculine — waternymphs. They are out for the opportunity to dive for nickels which the passengers may toss into the water. Nickels are thrown. The boys dash for them, swimming, struggling, diving. Up they come with the nickels in their mouths. Other nickels are thrown, and the process is repeated until the ship is docked. Yes, this is Honolulu. See the groups of native Hawaiians, barefooted boys and girls and men. See the women dressed in their " mother-hubbards." The missionary women taught their mothers to wear this dress in exchange for the garments which Mother Nature gave. Now these dresses have become a feature in the life of these islands. Observe the commingling of races — Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, native Hawaiians, German, British, and American. We quickly pass the customs and soon are on our way to the hotel. It is Friday noon, June twenty-first. Balmy is the air ; soft and sweet is every breath. We are told that it would be equally balmy if we were landing in January instead of June. The long-cherished hope has reached fruition ; we are among the Hawaiian Islands.

In Honolulu. — No sooner is our room secured than we are out to see the strange city. It is unique ; it fascinates. This writer comes, as he supposes, as a stranger. But a Honolulu welcome is an experience not soon to be forgotten. Such cordiality cannot be surpassed. That evening calls were received from Rev. Douglass Putnam Birnie, pastor of the Central Union Church ; from Rev. T. D. Garvin, pastor of the Christian Church ; and on Saturday from Doctors Hyde and Bingham, and Mrs. Coan, the widow of the distinguished Dr. Titus Coan. Saturday a long drive was taken with Mr. Garvin through the palm-shaded streets and among the tropical charms of the fields, and past the beautiful homes of wealth.