Description of Malta and Gozo

Part I

Preliminary Observations — Settlement of the Phoenicians — Greeks — Carthaginians — Romans — Goths — Emperors of Constantinople — Arabs — Defeat of Emperor's Expedition — Count Roger — Rebellion of the Arabs — Emperors of Germany — Kings of Arragon and Castile — Charles V. of Germany — Arrival of the Knights of St, John — Their first acts — Malta besieged by the Turks — Confiscation of several of the Commanderies — Arrival of the French — Siege of Malta — Dreadful state of the town — Appearance of the British fleet — The French capitulate — Malta ceded to the British Crown . . page 3 — 46

Part II

Geographical situation and features of the island. 49 FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS.

Soil — Cultivation — Industry of the inhabitants — Corn — Cotton — Clover — Fruits — Figs — Singular process in cultivation of — Supply of water — Cattle — Fowl —Birds— Fish 52—66

CLIMATE.

State of Thermometer — Sudden changes of temperature — Summer heat — South wind — Scirocco — Beauty of evening sky — Winter— Thunder. . . i 66 — 71

CONTENTS.

POPULATION.

Number of — Impoverished state of — Causes of the foregoing : Improvidence of the people — Want of education — Bad system of teaching Mechanics — Absence of a spirit of enterprise in the gentry — Character of the people by a Spanish author. 71 — 77

LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION.

Maltese language not derived from Phoenician — Attempts to reduce the Maltese to writing — Present system of National Education — Inconsistency of— Backwardness of the general mass of the people. 77— 82

MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING.

Native musical instruments — Poetical compositions — Songs— Maltese Proverbs, &c. . 8*2—92

COSTUME.

Dress of the Males— Dress of the females of the city

— Neatness of — Costume of the country-women . . 92— 98

AMUSEMENTS.

Processions: Good Friday — Easter Sunday — Festival of St. Gregory — Curious article in marriage contracts — Feast of St. Peter and St. Paul — Races — Carnival — Parata — Origin of — Giostra or Slippery pole— Boat-race . . 98— IC7

ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE.

Origin of the present Maltese codes — Confusion of — Enumeration of the courts — Suppression of the Bishop's Tribunal — Trial by Jury introduced — Commissions to draw up new codes — Result of their labours—Language in which the Maltese codes ought to be written 107—122

CONTENTS.

Part III

page

« of the island * 126

3 OF THE CITY OF VALETTA.

oion of the city — Its situation — Streets — Houses ole — Warehouses on — Health Office — Exterior

^fications — Gates 126

f St. Elmo 133

Palace * . 140

AUBERGES OF THE KNIGHTS OF MALTA . . 148

Auberge de Provence ...... 149

d' Auvergne . . . . 260

of Italy —

— — de Castile 165 d* Arragon 154

of England —

of Germany ..... 155

St. John's Church —

Churches of Valetta. . . . . . 165

Hospitals 170

Monte di Pieta 174

Government University . . . . . 178

Public and Garrison Libraries , . . 184

Public Theatre 188

Castellania' 389

Banco dei Giurati 190

Quarantine Harbour and Lazzaretto. . . —

Fort Manoel .193

Tour round the walls of Valetta .... 195

CONTENTS.

page

FLORIANA \ij~f

House of Industry . . . . . , 199

Asylum for the Aged ..... 200

Sa Maison 201

Protestant Burial-Grounds .... 202

Capuchin Convent 204

Casa della Madonna di Manresa . • . 206

BORGO, Or CITTA VITTORIOSA .... 209

Castle of St. Angelo 211

Victualling Yard 212

Inquisitor's Palace 213

Churches and Monasteries of Borgo.

St. Dominic's Convent . »."..• • • 217

Church of St. Lawrence . . . , . 218

Santa Maria dei Greci

Convent of Sta. Scolastica .... 220

BTRMULA, Or CITTA COSPICUA. . .

SENGLEA, Or ISOLA 222

Cottonera fortifications 225-

Capuchin Convent ... . —

Naval Hospital 226

Fort Ricasoli ....... —

Siege of Borgo and Senglea 283

INTERIOR Of the ISLAND 244

The Acqueduct —

Gardens and Palace of St. Antonio . . . 217

CITTA VECCHIA, Or LA NOTABILE . . . 248

St. Paul's Cave 252

Catacombs 255

CONTENTS.

page

Ancient Tombs of Bingemma .... 260

Emtableb .263

Boschetto 264

The Inquisitor's Palace . . ... 265

Fauuara 266

Tal Makluba 266

Ghar Hasan . . 269

Hermitage of St. Paul 270

St. Paul's Bay . 271

Mellieba and Calypso's Grotto .... 285

Marfa' 290

Island of Comino 291

GOZO.

Ancient name of — History of — Geographical description of— Fertility and Productions— Population — Language — Custom 291

Bay of Migiarro 301

Fort of Chambray ...... —

Town of Rabbato .302

BayofShlendi 306

Bay of Marsa-el-Forn . . . . . — Hagra tal General, or General's rock . . 307

Grotto of Calypso 30S

Casal Nadur 309

Torre tal Gigant, or Giants' Tower ... —

List of illustrations.

Zaqq player to face p. 83

Maltese song . . . . . . 85

Country-man. . . , . . .93

Lady in walking dress . . . . 95

Country-woman ....... 96

Entrance of the Great Harbour , . . .126

Auberge de Castile 152

St. John's Church 155

Mausoleum of Roccaful and Vilhena . . . 159

Nicolas Cottoner .... 160

Zondadari 162

Fort St. Angelo 212

Citta Vecchia 240

Map of St Paul's voyage 286

Map of Malta and Gozo ... 318

Preface

Fior del Mondo is the ardent language of the love of otir country, and though Malta, which has received this superlative appellation from its devoted children, is but a rock, yet "a rock is a rock" all the world through ; while the glory of the sky which overlooks Malta, the noble port which indents its rugged margin, as also the peculiarity of its position with regard to neighbouring tracts of the earth, render it altogether a rock singularly interesting, and of vast intrinsic importance.

The sky, and air, and country of Malta is African ; but its life and civilization is European. And here, whilst we have all the fervid glow of a cloudless boundless atmosphere, — here, where the orange-grove [yields its golden treasures, and the rosy grape in all its luscious freshness tempts the gazing eye, — we have also, in

PREFACE.

delightful combination, all the arts, science and purities of glorious Europe, which stretches her enlightened sceptre over all lands.

Formerly the bulwark of Christendom against the bloody banner of Islamism and infidility, and exerting a salutary influence o'er the desolations of Africa, giving also decisive checks to the infamous piracies of the Barbary coast, Malta, now also, in our own times, exerts a still nobler, because a moral influence, upon the shores of the Mediterranean, and occupies, under the benign and all-powerful flag of Great Britain, a prouder attitude than even during the most renowned days of her chivalrous story, under the sovereignty of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem.

A writer, then, who attempts some illustration of the past and present history of so remarkable a country as Malta, together with the peculiar features of its social and political state, however humble his efforts, or contracted his plan, may venture, without the slightest charge of arrogance, to anticipate the good wishes and the support of the public.

The chief design has been, in the following pages, to afford to the numerous English travellers, who are continually going to and coming from the Levant, now on pleasure, now on business, and in their route making a

PREFACE.

shorter or longer stay at Malta, some assistance in the knowledge or investigation of these islands, The late facilities offered by steam-navigation to all the curious and the learned, to make researches in the Mediterranean seas, have greatly increased the number of strangers in Malta ; — as also, the facilities and conveniences, which the generosity of the truly paternal government of Malta has granted to foreign shipping, have equally augmented the concourse of travellers and strangers in this farfamed port.

Here travellers may repose after a long voyage at sea, and even attempt the restoration of their health in the case of unlooked-for indisposition; and during their hours of quiet and solitude, they may perhaps be agreeably occupied with a cursory examination of the things which this brief history points out.

The author has confined himself to objects of utility in general, but has not entirely passed over those of elegance, of science, and of antiquities. And whatever credit he may receive for his labours, he doubts not, that his intentions will be fairly and indulgently construed. At any rate, this .being the first book in the English language ever attempted, on so limited and portable a scale, in illustration of Malta, he trusts, that if he does not entirely succeed in his object, he will have the gratification

PREFACE.

of having pointed out the way to others, who shall follow him in that path which is always noble and philanthropic, — that of making one part of humanity acquainted with another, and of adding to the general stock of the knowledge of the world, by investigating mankind as it exists in its geographical situation, political and social state, and all the peculiarities of its mind and feelings.