In three legations

Preface

Some of my friends have encouraged me to think that the memories of the earlier part of a long and varied life contained in this volume may be of interest to the general public.

Owing to the official position of my husband, Carl von Bunsen, as secretary, and afterwards councillor, to the Prussian Legations of Turin, Florence, and the Hague, we had opportunities of seeing and hearing much that was going on in times of historical importance. Curiously enough also in each one of our " Three Legations " we lived through the experience of a war, and were present at a royal marriage.

In Turin — the war between the combined forces of France and Italy against Austria in 1859, and the marriage of the Princess Marie Pia of Savoy with King Louis of Portugal.

In Florence — the war of 1866 ending with the deliverance of Venice from the Austrian rule and the marriage of the Prince of Piedmont, afterwards King Umberto of Italy, to his cousin the Princess Margherita of Savoy.

Finally, at the Hague, we went through the terrible emotions of the French and German war in 1870, and were spectators of the nuptials of the Prince of Wied with Princess Marie of the Netherlands.

viii PREFACE

My letters were written on the spot, and I can vouch for the perfect sincerity with which they accurately express what were then my opinions and impressions. In addition to the details of our daily life, there are frequent allusions to what of general interest was passing around us, and I can only hope that the casual mention of well-known men and events as they were spoken of at the time, may give some touch of life to historical figures now fast receding into the dim background of the past.

A small part of this correspondence has already appeared in Harper^ s Monthly Magazine, all the other letters are now published for the first time.

The quotations from Queen Victoria's letters are made by gracious permission of H.M. the King.

M. DE BUNSEN

{nee WADDINGTON)

Castletownshend, June, 1909.

Chapter I Page

Account of ourselves — State of affairs in Piedmont — Arrival in Turin — Interview vsrith our chief — Visits — We take an apartment — Evening at the Duchesse de Gramont's — Reception of Prince Charles of Prussia — Sir James Hudson — M. Brassier's ball .... 1-24

CHAPTER n

Statute — Races — Acquaintance w^ith the G.'s — Waldensian synod — Gala concert for Empress of Russia — Visits — My dog — Committee — Fete Dieu — General La Marmora — Go to Latour — Frederike Bremer . . 25-57

Chapter III

Dinner at the G.'s — Mrs. Ashley — Our party — Campo Santo — Dinner at Sir James Hudson's — Church of San Carlo — Reception at Foreign Office — Genoa — My father-in-law made a Freiherr — Mechlin lace — Visits to Monaco and Nice ...... 58-77

Chapter IV

War with Austria — Speech of Victor Emanuel — Birth of my baby — Poerio — Dinner at the Stackelbergs' — Ultimatum from Austria — Arrival of Garibaldi — French troops enter

CONTENTS

PAGE

Turin — Emperor Napoleon at Genoa — Battle of Montebello — Visits to the hospitals — Magenta — French hospital — Go to Latour with Stackelbergs — Peace of Villafranca — Arrival of Emperor of the French and Victor Emanuel in Turin .... 78-113

Chapter V

Visit to Certosa di Pesio — Journey to Florence and Perugia — Brassier's return — My husband made Legations-Rath — Dinner at Coellos' — C. prepares memoir for Cavour — Visit Naples, Rome — Bonn — Death of our child . 1 14-120

Chapter VI

Return to Turin — Union of kingdom of the Two Sicilies, Umbria, and the Marches to dominions of Victor Emanuel — Garibaldi enters Naples — His meeting with the King — We take an apartment — Piazza Bodoni — Sale of Prince G.'s curios — Death of King of Prussia — Opening of first Italian Parliament — Dinner at Cavour's — Go to the Reggio — Debate in the Chambers — The races — Illness and death of Cavour . . . 121-147

Chapter VII

Birth of my little girl — Meet Madame Benedetti — Presentation to the Duchess of Genoa — Meet Mdlle. A., governess to Princess Marguerite — Court ball — The Carnival — Visit to Palace — B.'s presentation — Villa Tournon Radicati — Moncalieri — C. gets Austrian decoration ..... 148-169

Chapter VIII

Meet Gallengas — Excursion to Verzuolo and Busca — Servants' ball — Royal Library — Court concert — Marriage of Princess Maria Pia to King of Portugal — Excursion to Chieri and Santena .... 1 70-1 1

CONTENTS xi

Chapter IX Page

Change of capital to Florence — Riots in Turin — Villa d'Ormea — Return to Turin — General La Marmora — Usedom's absence — Debate in Chamber — The Elliots' ball — Good reception of the King in Turin — C. goes to Synod at Latour — Viareggio .... 191-199

Chapter X

Florence — Comtesse Usedom — Meet Layard — Our party — Dinner given by Minister of Baden for Prince of Wied — Dinner at Villa Capponi .... zoo-209

Chapter XI

War between Prussia and Italy combined against Austria — Battle of Custozza — Victory of Sadowa — Venetia ceded to Italy — Villino della Torre in Via de' Serragli — Count Radolinsky arrives — Defeat of Italians at Lissa — Peace proclaimed — C. receives Order of Zahringen Lowe of Baden — Goes to Venice — Fetes at Venice in honour of Victor Emanuel .... 210-227

Chapter XII

Intense cold — Christmas dinner at Capponi — My reception at Court by the Duchesse d'Aosta — Carnival — Veglioni — We go to Milan for Carnivalone — Marchesa Trivulzio — Court ball — Trivulzio collection . . . 228-246

Chapter XIII

Marriage of Madame Marguerite to Prince of Piedmont — Arrival of Crown Prince of Prussia — Reception at English Legation — Entry of Prince and Princess of Piedmont — Reception at Capponi — Crown Prince visits German Deaconesses' School — Reception at Corsini Palace . 247-262 xii CONTENTS

Chapter XIV Page

Dinner at Capponi — Court ball — Tournament — Reception at Capponi for Prince and Princess of Piedmont — Ball at Cascine — B.'s presentation — Departure of Prince and Princess of Piedmont .... 263-276

Chapter XV

C. named Conseiller de Legation to the Hague — Berlin — Countess Bismarck — Countess Schulemburg — Reception at Crown Prince's — Ball in honour of the Prince and Princess of Wales — Schleppen Cour — Children's ball at Crown Prince's Palace — Masken ball — Children's party at Schonhausen ..... 277-301

Chapter XVI

The Hague — Dinner at Perponchers' — Scheveningen — Prince Alexander's birthday party — Birth of Prince of Naples — Arrival of Prince of Wied — Christmas — Intense cold — Court ball — " Le the de la Reine " . . 305-325

CHAPTER XVIJ

Sight-seeing — Reception at M. de Knorring's — Madame Groeninx' ball — Audience of Prince and Princess Henry of the Netherlands — Mr. Lecky — Visit to Moersberg — Declaration of war between France and Germany — Dinner at Huis de Paauw — Death of Princess Frederick — Sad Christmas ..... 326-350

Chapter XVIII

Marriage of Princess Marie of the Netherlands and the Prince of Wied — Official invitations — Lengthy ceremony — Reception at Huis de Paauw — Professor Nippold — Visit to Archbishop of Utrecht at Delft — Exhibition of drawings — Old china — Lost opportunities in Holland — Berlin — Mommsen's tribute to W. — Leave Berlin — " Mein Geniigen" ..... 351-368

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TURIN

MME. C. DE BUNSEN, TAKEN IN HER DRAWING-ROOM AT

CASTLETOWNSHEND .... Froutisptece

FACE PAGE VICTOR EMANUEL II., KING OF SARDINIA . . '4

COUNT BRASSIER DE ST. SIMON, PRUSSIAN MINISTER AT TURIN . 6

DUG DE GRAMONT, FRENCH MINISTER AT TURIN . .10

CARD OF INVITATION TO COUNT BRASSIEr's BALL . .21

CHURCH OF THE GRAN MADRE DE DIO, WITH BRIDGE OVER THE PO . 28

COUNT CAMILLO DI CAVOUR ....

ChAtEAU OF THE VALENTINO IN 1 8 5 8 . . '43

CHURCH AND PIAZZA OF SAN CARLO . . . .64

PRINCE L^ON G. . . . . . .67

PRINCE NAPOLEON AND HIS BRIDE, MADAME CLOTILDE DE SAVOIE . 79

BARON POERIO . . . . . . 80

PALAZZO MADAMA, WITH VELa's STATUE OF PIEDMONTESE

SOLDIER IN THE CRIMEA . . . . -85

ROYAL PALACE AT TURIN, WITH THE PALAZZO DUCALE ON THE

H.R.H. THE DUCHESS OF GENOA AND THE COMTESSE GATTINARA . 1 64

THE DUKE OF GENOA WITH HIS SISTER, MADAME MARGUERITE,

AND THEIR MAISON d'eDUCATION , . . . 1 64

xiii xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FACE PAGE MADAME MARIE PIE DE SAVOIE, QUEEN OF PORTUGAL . -179

WILLIAM HENRY WADDINGTON, AFTERWARDS PRIME MINISTER IN

FRANCE, AND TEN YEARS FRENCH AMBASSADOR IN LONDON . 1 88

QUEEN MARGHERITA . . . . . . 189

MARQUISE DE BOYL . . . . 195

MADAME MARGHERITE DE SAVOIA .... 202

COUNT HUGO RADOLINSKY, NOW PRINCE RADOLIN, AND GERNjIAN

AMBASSADOR IN PARIS . . . . -213

PRINCE OF PIEDMONT AND DUKE OF AOSTA . . . 2 1 4.

CARL VON BUNSEN, CONSEILLER DE LEGATION AT FLORENCE . 220

COMTESSE LUCIE RADOLINSKA . . . . .2 22

GIANDUJA EXPRESSING HIS SATISFACTION AT THE ROYAL WEDDING 249

DEPARTURE OF ROYAL PROCESSION FROM THE CASCINE . • ^55

PALAZZO PITTI . . . . . -255

VILLA CAPPONl, NOW LA PIETRA .... 262

PORTRAIT OF THE CROWN PRINCE OF PRUSSIA GIVEN BY HIMSELF

DUKE OF AOSTA AS CONTE VERDE .... 267

DUCA CARACCIOLO IN THE COSTUME OF THE NEAPOLITANS AT

THE TOURNAMENT ..... 267

CROWN PRINCE FREDERICK WILLIAM OF PRUSSIA . . 277

CROWN prince's PALACE SCHLOSS IN THE DISTANCE . . 281

KING WILLIAM AT THE WINDOW OF HIS PALACE . . 287

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xv

FACE PAGE COUNT BISMARCK, AFTERWARDS PRINCE AND CHANCELLOR OF

H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCESS OF PRUSSIA AND PRINCESS ROYAL OF ENGLAND . . , , .

QUEEN SOPHIE OF THE NETHERLANDS .... 305 OUR DRAWING-ROOM AT THE HAGUE .... 3O7 COUNT BENEDETTI, FRENCH AMBASSADOR AT BERLIN . -311

BARONESS DE BRIENEN . . . . . -319

COMTESSE DE PERPONCHER ..... 32O

PALACE OF PRINCE HENRY OF THE NETHERLANDS IN THE LANGE

RICHARD P. WADDINGTON AS CAPTAIN OF ARTILLERY IN THE

FRENCH NATIONAL GUARD .... 34I

ERNEST DE BUNSEN WITH TWO OF THE WOUNDED AT THE

NEUWXED HOSPITAL ..... 343

DON JUAN d'aLADRO, CHARGE D'AFFAIRES OF SPAIN . -350

M. BERTINATTI, ITALIAN MINISTER AT THE HAGUE . -355

GEORGE VON BUNSEN ...... 365

Chapter I

Account of ourselves — State of affairs in Piedmont — Arrival in Turin — Interview with our chief — Visits — We take an apartment — Evening at the Duchesse de Gramont's — Reception of Prince Charles of Prussia — Sir James Hudson — M. Brassier's ball.

IT was very soon after our marriage that we arrived at Turin in March, 1858, where my husband, Carl von Bunsen, had to resume his post as Secretary to the Prussian Legation, under Count Brassier de St. Simon. Carl was the third son of Baron Bunsen, who was well known at that time as a savant and as having been Prussian Minister for many years both at Rome and in London. I was Mary Isabella Waddington, and had been brought up very quietly in Normandy, near Rouen. With the exception of a few months in Paris and London, I had seen very little of the world, and diplomatic life and going to the South, which I did not know, seemed full of novelty and attraction. My letters to my family were a kind of journal, describing all that passed so vividly before me in scenes which were in every way new.

The state of things at Turin happened to be most interesting at that time. Just nine years before, in

1848, the late King Carlo Alberto had given a constitution, called " Statuto Fundamentale," to his people, and thrown in his lot with the cause of Italian liberty and independence. He and his sons had made two campaigns against the Austrian forces occupying the Lombardo-Venetian territory, but although they had met with success on the battlefields of Pastrengo and Goito, and Peschiera, one of the fortresses of the famous quadrilateral, I had fallen into their hands, they were ultimately obliged to return across the Mincio, and sustained a crushing defeat at Novara on March 23, 1849. Carlo Alberto, broken-hearted at this disaster, abdicated on the battlefield in favour of his son, Victor Emanuel II., and left his country for exile, where he soon after died.

Never, perhaps, did a young King begin his reign under more depressing conditions : a difficult peace to negotiate with Austria, a defeated army, ruined finances, for the war had cost 300,000,000 francs or about _^ 1 2,000,000 sterling (an overwhelming sum for a small State), and the whole country in a disturbed and agitated condition. Soon, however, the Piedmontese began to realise that God had given them a King quite different from all the other rulers of the Peninsula. While these all profited by the reaction which followed the revolutionary times of 1848 to tear up the constitutions they had given, to break all the oaths they had taken, and to govern under the protection of Austrian garrisons, Victor Emanuel upheld the " Statuto " his father had granted, resisted all Austrian attempts at interference, and went his own

' So-called from a sort 01 square formed by the fortresses of Peschiera, Verona, Mantua, and Legnago, and supposed to be one of the most important strongholds in Italy.

VICTOR EMANUEL II., KING OF SARDINIA.

independent way, doing his best to heal the wounds of his country.

Then a new figure soon appeared on the scene, destined not only to guide to prosperity the little State of Piedmont, but to be the future maker of the kingdom of Italy. Like most of Victor Emanuel's advisers, Count Camillo di Cavour came of a noble Piedmontese family, but he was distinguished from the others by broader and more advanced views and by the gift of genius. After rapidly coming to the front in Parliament, Cavour became Prime Minister for the first time in 1852, and thenceforth directed the destinies of his native country.

When the Crimean War broke out, Cavour suggested to the King the bold scheme of making an alliance with France and England and joining in the struggle with Russia. Eighteen thousand Piedmontese soldiers under General La Marmora took part in the war, distinguishing themselves particularly at the battle of the Tchernaya, and Piedmont found itself admitted to the Congress of Paris in 1856 on equal terms with the great European Powers. This was Cavour's opportunity, and he lost no time in making use of it. Already in 1854 he had written to a friend,^ "As Providence has willed that, in Italy, Piedmont alone should be free and independent, Piedmont ought to use her liberty and independence to plead before Europe the cause of the unhappy Peninsula."

Immediately after the signature of the Peace of Paris the attention of the Congress was drawn to the lamentable state of Italy, and particularly to that of the kingdom of Naples.

Lord Clarendon, with the warm approbation of

^ The Comtesse de Circourt.

Queen Victoria, ^ joined Count Waleski in asserting that the presence of Austrian and French troops in the Peninsula represented an unnatural condition of things. Count Buol, the Austrian plenipotentiary, refused to admit the right of the Congress to take up the Italian question and declined any discussion on the subject. Count Cavour, however, had been able to carry through his well-laid plans and to extort an official condemnation of the state of Italy from the representatives of some of the leading Powers in Europe. Such was the state of things in 1857.

Turin, We are here at last, and very glad to be arrived — at

1857. ' l^^st / am ! I have had so much novelty of all kinds

in these last two months that I am well-nigh tired.

Repose, however, is by no means likely to be our lot

for some time to come. To-morrow we go to look

at apartments, and then our troubles begin.

Turin, I have seen M. Brassier,^ and feel happier now that

Feder, ^^^^ important interview is off my mind. He came

late yesterday afternoon, after we had again been out to

look for lodgings. The servant announced in a loud

voice, " M. Brassier de St. Simon, Ministre de Prusse."

He came in, shook hands with me, and was most

gracious. He looked very hard at me, talked for some

time, and when he got up, took my hand again, held

^ Queen Victoria wrote to the Earl of Clarendon, February 7, 1856 : " With respect to Lord Clarendon's observation 'that he hopes the Queen will approve of his upholding the Sardinians in the Conference and in all other respects,' she can only assure him that she is most sincerely anxious that he should do so, as the Queen has the greatest respect for that noble little country, which, since it has possessed an honest, straightforward, as well as courageous King, has been a bright example to all continental States. The Queen rejoices to hear that Count Cavour is coming to Paris."

2 My husband's Chier.

March 22

COUNT BRASSIER DE ST. SIMON, PRUSSIAN MINISTER AT TURIN.

it, and said that there soon would be an occasion on which he would require my help, that he was going to give a little dance, and that without a lady he should be lost. C.I accompanied him to the top of the staircase as in duty bound, and I felt much relieved. In the evening he came to see me again in the box at the Opera, established himself opposite to me, and showed me all the principal Turin ladies in their boxes — a very brilliant sight. I must not forget to say that after M. Brassier's first visit M. Uebel,^ who is now the happy father of a son, came to see us. He is tall and melancholy looking and seems rather subdued. Mme. Uebel I have, of course, not yet seen.

We have already paid several visits, one to the Duchesse de Gramont at the French Legation, who asked us to her reception next Wednesday evening. We went also to the Portuguese Legation to thank Mme. d'Alte for the box at the Opera she sent us on our arrival. She is English and took a " passion " for the entire Bunsen family in London. There was a whole circle of people at her house and I was introduced to all, but do not remember much about them. She was very oddly dressed, receiving her company in a white bonnet and a linsey-woolsey gown with a velvet cloak. We also called on the Comtesse Robilant. She is German, the daughter of a former Prussian Minister at Turin. She was first lady to the late Queen of Sardinia and receives in a beautiful old-fashioned boudoir in an old house. She seems a great friend of C.'s, was very kind to me, and seemed pleased at our going to her at once. M. Uebel was there also. There is a sort of queer family feeling

^ My husband, Carl von Bunsen.

" M. Uebel was my husband's colleague at the Prussian Legation.

in meeting in other houses a member of the same Legation.

Altogether I am beginning to have some notion of things now, and like it very much so far. People in general appear to be very friendly and willing to make advances to a stranger, and the whole Corps diplomatique seems to hold very much together. March a8. The weather has been very bad since our arrival here, and we have not been able to go about much. We get through a certain number of visits every day, and have already a very respectable heap of cards on the table. We have very nearly fixed on an apartment — a very pretty one. It is quite near the Legation, nicely situated and well furnished. It was arranged for a young married couple in the Sardinian diplomacy. Marquis and Marquise Spinola, who have been sent off as attaches to Rome. At present it is let to some English people, who only leave it in about a fortnight. All the other lodgings we saw were positively disgusting, and everybody says we ought to be too thankful to get these. The drawing-room is really charming, all the furniture in palissandre and dark-blue velvet, itageres full of pretty trifles, and a piano d'Erard. There is a second drawing-room, two bedrooms, a large dining-room very devoid of furniture, a smoky kitchen, two servants' rooms, and no cupboards. Such is what in all likelihood will be our future abode.

We have two very nice rooms at the hotel, and live comfortably enough, only we wish very much to be really settled.

C. is at present at the Legation on a very solemn occasion. Count Paar, the Austrian Minister, is giving up all the papers of his Legation to the care of the Prussians, as the Austrians leave Turin on Friday, diplomatic relations between Italy and Austria having been broken ofF. Count Paar is delighted ; it is sure promotion for him, for if he did not get a better post, it would look as if he were disavowed. C. is not delighted. They will have much more work, as they take charge in part of the Austrian affairs, and will gain nothing by it. Already yesterday M. Uebel was in despair, having had to see after twenty-four Austrian passports in succession.

Yesterday I was alone, as C. was at the Chancellerie taking over the Austrian papers, when Benz announced the Marquise d'Arvilars. She is one of the great ladies here, and was Grande Maitresse to the late Queen. We had called on her the day before without finding her at home, so that I had not seen her. I felt much dismayed. In she came, however, with her daughter, Mdlle. d'Arvilars. She said she had hoped to find M. Bunsen at home ; I devoutly wished she had, but explained about the Austrians, and by degrees we got on better. She said she would be very glad to be ' of use to me, and was very polite. On going away she hoped "que je daignerai me souvenir qu'elle recevait tel jour." The manners here are very polished, quite the old school. It often reminds me of reading St. Simon.

In the evening we went to Mme. de Gramont's, which was rather an ordeal, but it went off better than I expected. I had on my green velvet with the point d'Argentan. C. said it was very neat^ which from him means the highest approbation — at least, he never says anything stronger. On entering I was introduced to the Duke, I who is exceedingly tall and majestic ; he

I Due de Gramont, who was Minister for Foreign Affairs in France at the time of the declaration of war against Prussia in 1878.

lo IN THREE LEGATIONS

waved us on to the Duchess, who is quiet and agreeable looking, but shy. She was very kind, spoke English, asked what people I had seen as yet, and introduced me to some ladies. Nearly all the gentlemen of the Corps diplomatique asked to be presented to me, and C. brought them up at intervals throughout the evening. Then the Duke came and conversed a little ; he has just been at Nice, and told me he had first heard of C.'s arrival in these parts from the Empress of Russia.

Yesterday I had another visit from people I had not yet seen ; a Count and Comtesse Sclopis. They are great friends of my father-in-law's, were most kind, and after the first embarrassment I liked them particularly. They begged that we would make use of them in any way, and the Count said we must have had offers of that kind already. " Mais comme amis de la famille, nous vous prions de nous donner la preference, comme disent les marchands." They don't go out much, which I am sorry for, but receive at home. I hope we shall go there. Soon after they were gone C. came in, and we paid various visits. We went to the Marquise Palavicini, who is very handsome and very clever. We found the Chief there and M. Uebel, so that she had the entire Legation at her reception. The whole Corps diplomatique here seems very intimate, but the members of one Legation are almost relations. After the Palavicini we went to see Mme. La Marmora, wife of the General ; she is an Englishwoman.

In the evening we went to M. de Castro's, the Spanish Minister. It was not a large party. I had seen Mme. de Castro at the Duchess's, and as she is a new arrival, I had to present C, which was rather amusing. Mdlle. de Castro, her step-daughter, is a very pretty girl, and

DUG DE GRAMONT, FRENCH MINISTER AT TURIN.

To face p. lo.]

TURIN II

looked charming in one of those queer coiffures you may remember seeing at Laure's — a great plait ot black velvet all up one side of the head, and a bunch of red roses stuck at the other ; she had a white dress. Mme. de Castro can hardly speak a word of French ; otherwise she receives very well, and they have a new house, perfectly got up. M. de Castro, tall and much decorated with broad ribbons and orders, proved almost a rival for the Duke. By the way, the Duke was most gracious, apologised for not having called yet, and finally begged that C. and I would dine with them on Sunday " en petit comite." All the people here shake hands, just as in England, young ladies and all. The Comtesse CoUobiano was covered with diamonds and magnificent lace ; she called C. just as we were going away, to tell him we must come to her evening receptions. My friend the Marquise d'Arvilars was there, and the Comtesse Robilant, who was complimentary about my toilette. I had on the blue gown with the black lace and the dear little bows. Altogether I amused myself very well — the worst is over ; I know a few people now, and they certainly are all very kind. At present, as it is all new, I think it rather fun, but C. says I shall get dreadfully tired of always seeing the same people by and by. C. has not yet made his appearance at the club, to the amazement of Kolochine.^^ Prince Charles of Prussia arrives here to-day. M. Uebel went yesterday to Genoa to meet him. M. Kolochine gives a farewell repast to his friends this evening, and to-morrow it is not unlikely the Chief may give a breakfast to the Prince, in which case I should have to go alone to Mme. d'Arvilar's reception, which I by no means wish. ^ Secretary to the Russian Legation, who was just leaving Turin.

March 29. Diplomacy is decidedly a wonderful career tor rimprevu. I had scarcely sent oflF my letter yesterday, when I got a note from C. saying that the Chief would receive the Prince and the Corps diplomatique that evening, and that I was to prepare my dress. C. came in late, having been very busy — the Chief with the Prince all day, and everything left to him. We went out immediately to call on Mme. de Castro after her party, as we should most likely meet her in the evening ; then we drove to the railway for C. to shake hands with Count Paar, the Austrian Minister, who was departing. Chemin faisant C. gave me my instructions. 1 was to receive. When the Prince arrived (he was to dine with the King), all the gentlemen of the Legation were to meet him at the foot of the stairs. I was to be forthcoming at once, in order that M. Brassier might present me, and I was not to forget the altesse royale, or we should all be undone ! If the Prince spoke to me in German, I was to say *' Aufzuwarten Euer Konigliche Hoheit." I felt decidedly alarmed, but it was no use being nervous, and although I devoutly wished the Prince had put off his journey for a week or two, I tried to take things quietly. We found Mme. de Castro looking most charming in a black mantilla ; she is twenty-two, only four years older than her step-daughter, and is just arrived here ; we sympathise together, and although we can't talk much, as her French is very deficient, we look kindly at each other and are great friends. After dinner I put on the embroidered dress W.^ brought from Broussa, and

^ In these letters " W." always refers to my brother William Henry Waddington, afterwards Prime Minister in France and French Ambassador in London for ten years.

the red roses, and we drove to the Legation quite early, so as to be there before any arrivals. Son Excellence begged me de m installer, and to consider myself quite at home. The Due and Duchesse de Gramont were the first to arrive, and we all went into a second drawing-room. There M. Brassier brought all the ladies to me, " Viola la maitresse de maison ! " It must be said that the Chief does not do things by halves, and yesterday I had all the honours. C. brought up the young ladies in the rear. The company was very select, only les chejs de mission — no secretaries or attaches were admitted — and the leading people here. There was a false alarm of the Prince arriving, and a vain rush of M. Brassier and his two secretaries to the stairs. Finally he came, however, and C. fetched me alone into the first drawing-room. The Prince was standing before the fire, red-faced and military looking. Brassier presented me; I curtsied as low as I could. He made a stiff little bow, and said in a -short, abrupt way, " Vous etes Fran^aise ? " " Oui, votre Altesse Royale." " Et mariee depuis peu de temps.?" " Depuis deux mois, votre A.R." Brassier presented C. " Vous etes beaucoup de freres, je crois .? " in the same tone. I did not stop to hear more, for the Chief told me that was all, and I might go back to the ladies. I cannot say I felt much flattered, but C. was extremely pleased with the whole affair, and assured me it was a great honour to be presented first and all alone, and that all the other ladies envied me. The gentlemen of the Corps diplomatique were then presented, and the Prince came into the second drawing-room. We all stood up and M. Brassier took him round, beginning by the Duchesse de Gramont, and named all the ladies. He shook hands with Mme. de Robilant and one or two others, old acquaintances I suppose, and began to chat very amicably with some of the dowagers. The dresses were very splendid. M. Brassier had written to the Marquise Palavicini to put on all her diamonds, and she really was ablaze. She had a yellow gown, covered with old lace and diamonds, a scarlet scarf, Turkish, embroidered in gold, a necklace of the biggest pearls I ever saw, row upon row, and a coronet of diamonds. Any one else would have been crushed by such a dress, but it would take a great deal to crush the Palavicini, and she went about, handsome and dashing, carrying it all as if it were a feather's weight. I can fancy people admiring her extremely. The Prince stayed a tremendous time, which was in so far satisfactory that I suppose he would have gone away if he had not been amused. According to etiquette nobody could leave before him, and it was getting very slow when at last he got up, asked M. Brassier's permission to retire, and, making a short bow to the company in general, walked out of the room, followed by his aide-de-camp.