A winter in Upper and Lower Egypt

Chapter I

Travelling in 1833 and 1863 — The Author's Previous Voyage to Egypt — Three Hours in Malta — Maltese Shopkeepers — Arrival at Alexandria — Landing in Africa — Modern Alexandria — The Great Square — Europeans in Alexandria — Intriguing Character and Conduct of the French — The Suez Canal — General Unpopularity of the Scheme — Expense of the Undertaking — The French Colony — Their Real Object — Forced Labour — Foundation of the Ancient City of Alexandria — Antiquities — Pompey's Pillar- Cleopatra's Needle — Caesar's Camp — Railway from Alexandria to Cairo — Railways and Railway Passengers in Egypt — Gold and Poverty — A Ride through the Delta — Bridge across the Nile — The Pasha's Railway ....... 1

CHAPTER n.

Cairo — The Uzbekeeh — Europeans in Cairo — Street Scenes — Picturesque Groups in the Bazaars — Bridal Processions — Donkeys and vi

CONTENTS.

Carriages — The Ghoree and Turkish Bazaars — The Mosks — The Sharawee and the Mosk of the Sultan Hassan — Architecture of the old Mosk of Tayloon and of El Ghoree — Origin of the Pointed Style in the East— El Ezher, the Great College of Cairo-^The Citadel — Joseph's Well — Tombs of the Memlooks — Tombs of the Reigning Dynasty — Sepulchres of Achmet and of Ibrahim Pashas — Old Cairo — Deyr el Adra, or the Chapel of the Virgin —The Convent of St. George— A Coptic Turban— The Mosk of Amer — Island of Rhoda — Interesting Views — The Mekkeeas, or Kilometer — The Garden of Shoobra — The Great Fountain — Kasr el Ainee, or College of Dervishes — A Strange Ceremony — The Obelisk of Heliopolis — Visit to the Camp and Hospital of Abouzaleel — Mohammed Ali — The Mooled el Hassaneyn — Good Humour of the Modern Egyptians — Extraordinary Scene at the Festival of the Doseh ..... 23

Chapter III

The Railway to Suez — Passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites- Wells in the Desert — Description of Suez — The Bazaar — Signor Mariettas Museum of Egyptian Antiquities — Remarkable Objects—Collection of Divinities— Gold Ornaments of the Ancient Egyptians— The Sphinx— The Pyramids of Meroe and of Geezeh —View from the Summit of the Highest Pyramid— Galleries and Chambers of the Interior— The Second Pyramid— The Third Pyramid — Tombs near the Pyramids — Remarkable Sculptures illustrative of Egyptian Life and Manners— Native Guides 49

Chapter IV

A J ourney to the Fyoom— Ruins of Memphis— Statue of Rameses II. - The Pyramids of Sakkara— Examination of One— Mummy Pits

CONTENTS.

Vll of the Ibis and other Animals — Interior of a Tomb — The Pyramids of Dashoor — Crossing the Desert — Medeeneh, the Capital of the Fyoom — The Water of the Nile — The Fyoom the Garden of Egypt — Discovery of the Locality of Lake Moeris — Eemains of Crocodilopolis —Reception by the Governor of the Village of Metaret — Hospitality of the Sheakh el Bellard — Arrival at Senhoor — Excursion to the Village of Fedanir — A Travelling Guard — Encampment of Bedouin Arabs — A Picturesquely-dressed Bedouin — The Village of Nesleh — Visits of Invalids — A Bedouin Musician — The Ruins of Kasr el Bint — A Desert formerly Cultivated — The Ruins of Kasr Kharoon — An Ancient Tomb — Remains of the Chief Temple of the Fyoom — A Primitive Boat — An Inharmonious Crew — The Desert Island of El Korn — Limits of the Lake — Difficulty of Procuring a Guide — Lost in the Desert — Arrival at Cairo — Pyramid marking the Site of the Celebrated Labyrinth ..... 64

Chapter V

Preparations for the Voyage up the Mle — Hiring a Boat — Crew and Accommodation — Furniture and Provisions for the Voyage — ~New Race of Dragomen — Engagement of my Former Dragoman — Purchase or Hiring of Boats — Advice to Invalids — Destruction of Vermin — Painting — Form of Contract in Hiring a Boat — Avoidance of Vermin — Expense of Stores and Canteens — Purchase of Fresh Provisions — Medicine Chest — Sanitary Precautions — Diseases of the Country — Ophthalmia — Books and other sources of Amusement ..... 89

Chapter VI

My First Voyage up the Kile — Scenes on the River — Excavated Chamviii

CONTENTS.

bers — Pyramids of Sakkara and Dashoor — The Pasha's Yacht: — Mosk Attar e' Nebbee — Shoal of Arab Boats — Mokattam Range — Quarries of Masarah — Peasants Irrigating the Land — Pyramid of Lisht — Haram el Kedab, or the False Pyramid: — Tracking under a Hot Sun — Music and Singing of the Sailors — Benisooef — Village of Bibbeh — Appearance of the Natives — The Mountain of Sheakh Embarak — An Awkward Accident — Effects of a Gust of Wind — Sheakh Fodl— Gebel e Tayr — A Convent of Copts — Arrival at Minieh — Fertility of the Banks of the Nile —Egyptian Villages — Tower and Ruins of Kom Ahmar — The Tombs of Beni Hassan— Representations of Egyptian Life — Injuries caused by Thoughtless Travellers — View from the Tombs — Approach to the Temple of the Egyptian Diana — The Speos Artemidos — Beautiful Sculptures . . . 107

Chapter VII

Roda — The Mounds of Sheakh Abaydeh — Tombs of the Saints— The Minaret of Melawe — The Mountain of El Bersheh — Appearance of the Country — Sugar Manufactory — Groups of Grottoes — The Six Minarets of Manfaloot — Crocodile Pits — The Town of Sioot — The Bazaar— Visit to the Baths — Cemetery of Lycopolis — The Stabl Antar — John of Lycopolis — Progress of Sioot — Strange Incident — Burning of a Boat — Egyptian Women — Range of Yellow Hills — Gebel Sheakh Hereedee — Village of E' Raaineh — Egyptian Superstition — An Englishman attacked by the Peasantry — Tombs in the Rocks — Continuation of Mountain Range — Akhmim — Remains of the Ancient City of Panopolis — Excavations — Mensheeh — Splendid Crops of Doorah— Picturesque Groups of Villagers— Girgeh— Destructive Effect of the Inundations of the Nile — Ramble in the Bazaars . . 133

CONTENTS. i\

C HAPTER VIII.

Arabat el Matfoon, the Ancient Abydus — Important Excavations — Entrance to the Great Temple of Osiris — Interesting Sculptures — Beautiful Temple buried in the Sand — Sculptures representing Osiris — Remarks on Egyptian Mythology — Belief in an Eternal God, and Deification of His Attributes — Origin of Egyptian Mythology — The Animal Worship of the Egyptians — Belief in the Immortality of the Soul, and its Migration through the bodies of Animals — Arrival at the Village of Bellianeh — Farshoot — Groves of the Dom, or Fan-leaved Palm — The Sportsman's Mansion — The Kasr e Syad Range of Rocks — The Village of Dishne — Ruins of Denclera — Temple of Athor — Sculptures of the Portico — Interior and Exterior of the Temple — Temple of Isis — Representations of the Goddess Athor — Egyptian Scenery and Architecture — Anecdote Illustrative of the Value of Money formerly in Egypt .. . . . . . . i58

Chapter IX

Town of Keneh — Proposed Railway Company — Porous Water Jars — Picturesque Village — Impressions on a First Visit to Thebes — The Palace-Temple of Koorneh — The Memnonium, or Palace- Temple of Rameses II. — Beautiful Sculptures — Fragment of a Colossal Statue — Interior Courts of the Great Hall — Battle Scenes — Astronomical Sculptures — Colossal Statues — Vocal Statue of Memnon — Medeenet Haboo — The Site of Thebes — Beautiful Views — Sculpture and Hieroglyphics — Pavilion or Residence of the King — Representation of Rameses HI. — Remains of Egyptian Decoration — Sculptures representing Religious Processions of the Egyptians— Representations of Naval and Land Engagements — Small Ptolemaic Temple . . . . . . . 17 i

X

CONTENTS.

Chapter X

The Temple of Dayr el Bahree — Ride through the Valley of Assaseef — Tomb of a Wealthy Priest — The Great Western Mountain — Granite Pylon of ThotlimesIII. — Egyptian Knowledge of the Arch — The Pasha's Excavations — The Author forbidden to take a Note of Certain Sculptures — Beautiful Remains of Coloured Decorations — A Small, but Beautiful, Excavated Temple — Representations of King Thothmes and the Goddess Athor — Private Tombs of Thebes — Destruction caused by Arabs and Travellers — Interesting Tombs — Tomb 35 — Its Inhabitants — Interesting Paintings on the Walls — Representations of Arts and Trades — Pictures illustrative of Brick-making — Tomb of the Time of Thothmes I. — Tombs of Egyptian Kings and Queens — Magnitude of the Tombs ■ — Their Appearance when lighted — Destruction of the Paintings — Belzoni's Tomb, No. 14 — Inclined Gallery — Extraordinary and Interesting Decorations — Sculptures representing the Mysterious Ceremonies of the Dead — The Tomb of Rameses III. — Galleries and Mches for Royal Mummies — Decorations representing Boats, Arms, and Trades of the Ancient Egyptians — Tomb of Rameses IV. 196

CHAPTER XL

The Gay Season at Thebes — The Price of a Mummy — Sale of Scarabsei — Manufacture of False Ones — The Obelisk at Luxor — Battle Scenes represented on the Eastern and Western Towers — Splendid Avenue formed by Fourteen Immense Columns — Advantage of Painting and Sculpture in Combination with Egyptian Architecture—The most Elegant Egyptian Columns— Ruins of the Temple of Karnak — Imposing Avenue of Sphinxes — The Pylon of Ptolemy Euergetes— Beautiful Small Temple— Panorama of Un-

CONTENTS.

xi equalled Grandeur — Great Temple of Karnak — Immense Pyramidal Towers at the Entrance — Avenue of Magnificent Columns — Remarkable Sculptures of Egyptian Divinities and Religious Ceremonies — Ruins of the Great Hall of Karnak — Representation of Egyptian Deities on the Columns — Decorations of the Great Hall — A Sculptured Granite Gateway — Granite Sanctuary and Obelisks — Spirited Representation of Battle Scenes — Destruction of Sculptures — Colossal Portrait of Shishak — Ptolemy Lathyrus the Destroyer of the Temples of the Pharaohs — Representations of the Goddess Pasht 217

Chapter XII

Arrival at Erment — The Old Village of Erment — Ruins of the Temple — Decorations of the Sanctuary — Females Mourning — The Town of Esneh — The Bazaar — Beautiful Little Palace built by Mohammed Ali — Garden and Aviary — Beautiful Walk and View — Visit of the Chief Priest of the Copts at Esneh — Coptic Convents — The Guide's Difficulties with his Donkey — Interior of a Coptic Convent — Exterior of the Temple — Curious Group of Sculpture — The Sheraineh Range of Mountains — Quarrel with Nubians — Working of the Shadoof — Quarrels with the Peasantry — Arrival at El Kab — Visit to Neighbouring Tombs — English Vandalism — Interesting Picture of Egyptian Agricultural Operations — Temple of Edfoo — Great Towers of the Propylon — Magnificent Portico — The Hall of Assembly — Sculptures representing Egyptian Kings and Divinities — The Wall surrounding the Temple — Bad Character of the Edfoo Peasantry, xii

CONTENTS,

Chapter XIII

AVilder and more Desolate Scenery — Ruins of an Ancient Arab Town and Mosk — Village of Massaheed — Dates, the Chief Wealth of the Country — Quarries of Gebel Silsilis — Mode of Excavation — Tombs, Chapels, and Grottoes — Beautiful View — Rocky Bed of the River — Temple of Ombos — Plan of the Temple — The Osshi Plant and the Castor Oil Shrub — Asouan — Picturesque Scene — Journey to the Quarries — The Obelisk — Tombs of Derwishes and Sheakhs — Mosk of Amer — Island of Elephantine — Extensive Ruins — View from the West Side of the Island — The Stone Pier — Arrival of the Comte de Paris and the Due de Chartres — Visit to the Cataracts — The Little Cataract — Sailing up the Rapids — Passing the Principal Fall —Clamour of the Nubians — Rash Attempt of an Englishman to swim down the Cataract — Island of Philse — Ruins of Temples — Roman Gateway — View from the West Side of the Great Temple — Interesting Sculptures — Beautiful Ptolemaic Portico 269

Chapter XIV

The Temple of Dabod — Picturesque Ruins of an Arab Castle — The Island of Morgose — Hypsethral Court of the Temple of Gertassee — Island of Bab-el-Kalabshee — The Temple of Kalabshee — The Pylon of Dakkeh— Little Temple of Bayt el WeUee, the Home of the Saint — The Temple of Dendoor — Gerf Hossayn — The Temple of Dakkeh — Ruins of El Madeah — Nubian Method of crossing Rivers — The Temple of Sabooa — Village of Karango — Korosko — The Starting Place for Caravans crossing the Great Nubian Desert — Contrary Wind — A Disagreeable Path for our Men 302

CONTENTS.

xiii

Chapter XV

The Temple of Amada— Derr, the Capital of Nubia—The Temple of Derr — Scenes on the Banks of the River — AVedding Gaieties in Nubia — Fortress of Ibreem — Great Temple of Aboo-Simbel — Various Sculptures — Battle-Scenes — The Portico — The Sanctuary — The small Temple of Aboo-Simbel — Statues of Rameses II. — Small Temple used as a Fortress — Various Sculptures representing Rameses II. and his Queen—Temple at Ferayg — Deboreh — Careful Cultivation on the Bank of the River — A Resource of the Poor Nubians— Brick Enclosures for Cattle in the Nubian Desert — Ruins of a Temple and Ancient Chapels — View of the Second Cataract — Magical Effect — Wadee Halfeh — Condition of the Peasantry — Morning and Evening Temperature in Nubia — Violent Gales of Wind- — Advice to Invalids — Voyage from Wadee Halfeh to Cairo — Visit to a Caravan with Prisoners — Black Regiments in the Egyptian Service — Slave Traffic — Discovery of the Source of the Nile . . 321

A WINTER

UPPE1I AND LOWER EGYPT.

Chapter I

Travelling in 1833 and 1863 — The Author's Previous Voyage to Egypt — Three Hours in Malta — Maltese Shopkeepers — Arrival at Alexandria — Landing in Africa — Modern Alexandria — The Great Square — Europeans in Alexandria — Intriguing Character and Conduct of the French — The Suez Canal — General Unpopularity of the Scheme — Expense of the Undertaking — The French Colony — Their Real Object — Forced Labour — Foundation of the Ancient City of Alexandria — Antiquities — Pompey's Pillar — Cleopatra's Needle — Caesar's Camp — Railway from Alexandria to Cairo — Railways and Railway Passengers in Egypt — Gold and Poverty — A Ride through the Delta — Bridge across the Mle — The Pasha's Railway.

In 1832-3 my visit to Egypt was to see the country, and study its ancient monuments. In 1860-61 health was my object, trusting that the fine climate of the Nile might be more efficacious than that of Italy or Spain.

B

TRAVELLING IN FORMER DAYS.

Travellers in former days had to encounter no slight difficulties before reaching Alexandria. A short epitome of the sufferings I endured on my previous voyage will afford a striking contrast to the comfort and even luxuries enjoyed by travellers in the present day.

We were ten days in a wretched sailing vessel from Naples to Messina, the sailors attributing the unusual length of our voyage to a certain Marchese, a celebrated Iattatore, who always brought ill luck with him. The Marchese was a poet, and wrote a sonnet, praising the good looks of his sovereign, who immediately fell seriously ill. After his recovery, the Marchese wrote another sonnet, congratulating the people that the sun again shone upon them. The King had a sudden relapse, and died ; and our Marchese's character as a Iattatore was fully established.

We had then a miserable passage in a spironale from Syracuse to Malta. Hearing that the cholera was raging in Alexandria, we sailed to Patras, and landed in Greece the very day that Capo dTstrias was assassinated. The country was in confusion, every rascal turning out with his gun. After various miraculous escapes from robbers, in the Morea, and being robbed by banditti on our way to Marathon, we sailed from Egina to Syra. The little vessel was crowded with passengers and their families, but had not half ballast enough. A dreadful storm arose near Cape Colonna,

^ STORM. 3

the classic scene of T foempflen 's shipwreck. The sailors were obliged to destroy the little huts erected on the decks for the women, whose cries were fearful. Many of the passengers were part proprietors of the vessel, and thought themselves entitled to give their advice as to what ought to be done. Such a scene of misery and confusion was never witnessed.

At last a lieutenant in the Greek navy recollected having seen in his youth a little port, which he thought we might make. The captain produced a large map, but no such port was marked on it. It being, however, the almost unanimous opinion that it was our best chance, the helm was given to the lieutenant, who piloted us most gallantly into the little creek.

At Syra there was no better vessel sailing for Alexandria than a miserable small Turkish bombard with a wretched little dirty cabin not four feet high. The vessel sailed well when the wind was favourable ; but when it was contrary and high, we were driven back to Rhodes, and had to wait in the convent there six weeks before we could again set sail.

It blew a gale near Alexandria, and we were driven far past that port. The captain, who had hitherto appeared collected and brave, was crying at the helm ; and when I reproached him, he said it was for his family he should never see again ; but Providence was kind, and about five months after we left Italy,

B 2

THE YALETTA.

we landed at the port we set out for from Naples.

Finding that later on in the year we should have worse accommodation, and perhaps run the risk of not finding berths at all, we embarked on the 4th of October in the Vdletta* It would be impossible to have greater comforts at sea than we enjoyed in this vessel. As there were few passengers on board, we had each -a cabin of two berths to ourselves, and the fare was excellent, though some few old topers did grumble a little at the wine.

On the Sunday the crew were summoned to prayers, which the captain read, and most impressive was the scene. When I counted fifty sailors and officers, and saw their strict discipline, and the regularity with which they made their nautical observations, I felt that if the stormy winds did blow, no one, however weak his nerves, need feel alarm with so gallant a crew, commanded by officers who, with their practical skill, combined so much scientific knowledge.

* Few travellers visit Egypt now before November or December, but for invalids who desire a dry climate, and require a continuance of fine weather to re-establish their health, it is better to go there the beginning of October. There is then a greater chance of a smooth passage, and being early, they have the choice of boats and servants. They have an opportunity, also, of seeing some portions of the Delta covered with the inundation, and the villages surrounded with water like little islands. The sunsets on the Nile are also finer at the end of October or beginning of November than afterwards. Travellers during these months should carefully avoid the night damps, which, however, diminish as you sail up the river, and at Esneh cease entirely.

THE PENINSULAR BOATS.

It is the privilege, however, of Englishmen to grumble, and we were not a little discontented at scarcely finding a seat on the deck to sit down upon. Most of the passengers came provided with their easychairs, and fortunately I found one which had been left behind by some stray passenger in a former voyage. I made a couch on one of the skylights ; but though I pleaded illness and a weak -spine, the testy purser forbade me to take the pillow from my own bed to make it more comfortable.

With the exception of two or three gentlemen we left at Malta, our passengers were mostly all bound for India. About a dozen were engineers, and others connected with the great railways now constructing in that country. Some gentlemen were in the civil and military services, and others were merchants carrying out young and good-looking brides, to make their Indian homes more agreeable.

My experience of the Peninsular boats the October of the year following was unfortunately very different. After waiting several days at Marseilles, when the London passengers arrived there was only one place Tacant, in a room with twelve berths, called the omnibus. The air was so stifling I could not sleep ; the sea was rough, the rain fell in torrents, and everybody was ill. Disgusted with the accommodations, I landed at Malta, and after waiting there several days, I could get no better place in the next

TRIESTE ROUTE.

boat, the Peri, than the worst berth in an omnibus, with seven others ; and though the room was nearly as large as the one for twelve, and better ventilated, the discomfort was very great, and made me so unwell that I vowed I would never sail again in one of that company's boats.

The Messageries Imperiales are very comfortable ; and now the new line to China offers further accommodation; but I am told they have made a bad beginning, both as to vessels and comfort.

The steam-boats of the company formed by the Pashas, and other great officers of the court, under the patronage of Ismail Pasha — who, besides taking shares, guarantees a dividend of six per cent — will afford facilities to travellers ; and energetic as the present Pasha appears to be, we may probably soon see steamers for travellers to Thebes and Asouan, and hotels at both those places.

The steamers from Liverpool to Alexandria, which call at Malta, are very good, and never overcrowded, and the passage-money much less. I returned to Europe by the Trieste route, in the Neptune, a fine vessel.

The scenery was very picturesque, passing near to Candia and the coast of the Morea, and especially near Navarino. We stopped four hours at Corfu, the most beautiful of the Ionian Islands, and followed afterwards the wild coasts of Albania aud Dalmatia.

MALTA.

These vessels are, however, very crowded in the spring, and I should have had to submit to an omnibus again, if I had not paid five pounds extra for the captain's berth.

No one can leave Marseilles without admiring the bold and rocky coast, which extends for miles. Corsica, and the barren rocky Island of Sardinia, are also interesting.

We had taken our passage only for Malta, intending to stay there if rough, till the weather should become more favourable ; but as there was scarcely a ripple on the water, and we were bad sailors, we thought it would be tempting Providence not to take advantage of the present calm, and to continue our voyage in the good, and as they say always fortunate, ship, the Valetta.

It was moonlight when we arrived at Malta, and as we had three hours to stay there, we sailed across the beautiful harbour, and drove about the narrow but picturesque streets, all the houses of which have stone balconies.

The hotels at Malta, especially the Imperial and Dumford's are good and cheap (seven shillings a day), and it is an excellent place to make purchases for the Nile, voyage. The church of St. John's, the villa of St. Antonio, and the Governor's house, are worth seeing, and excursions may be made to Casal Crendi, St. Paul's Bay, and especially to Citta Vecchia, where

ALEXANDRIA.

the tesselated marble figures on the pavement of the church are more interesting than St. John's; but I must confess I dislike Malta and its endless stone walls. ¥

I have seen Malta under the glare of a hot sun, and have ridden into the country round, which is as barren as the desert, without its grandeur, but never did I see it so beautiful. Fortunate are they who only see Malta by the pale light of the moon. All the honest tradesmen, I presume, had closed their shops, and only the rogues were wide awake. We were asked three pounds twelve shillings for a mantilla for which they were willing to take thirty shillings ; and every passenger had some tale to tell of their extortion. One gentleman, who had often visited Malta, boasted to us that he had defied them to cheat him, and thought himself clever in beating them down to half the prices demanded ; but, on opening his parcel on board, he found they had substituted for what he had bought inferior articles, which he had rejected, and would not have purchased at any price.

Early on the 11th of October, we reached Alexandria, after a glorious passage, no one the least ill. There was great confusion in removing the luggage ; and though I thought I had taken great pains to secure a bag containing my money and other valuables, when my back was turned for a moment it was

CUSTOM-HOUSE.

snatched up by an Arab, and flung among the Indian luggage.

Travellers going further than Egypt have merely to obey orders, the Company taking charge of their persons and luggage. All they have to do is to look sharp for good rooms in the hotels at Alexandria and Cairo, when allowed to stay there, taking care to telegraph for them to Shepheard's at Cairo, or the new hotel there, which is much praised. Travellers in Egypt should land with their baggage and go direct to the custom-house, where a small bribe will save its being examined.* 1 returned for mine with a dragoman and a janissary from the Consul, which I found a far more expensive plan, and utterly useless, as there is a very civil man at the custom-house, who speaks English perfectly.

The landing in Africa for the first time is very interesting. The picturesqueness of the costumes, the profusion and variety of colours — blue and white predominating — red caps with blue tassels, and white, yellow, green, and red turbans, being the usual head-dress of the men — the strings of laden camels, the shouting and bawling in an unknown tongue by a vivacious people, the beautiful minarets, and, amidst this confusion and bustle, the quiet imperturbable de-

* It is however prudent for several to land together, with sticks in their hands, to ensure the respect of the Arabs. On my last visit to Egypt I was nearly torn to pieces, so violent was their scramble for me and my luggage.

BAZAARS.

meanour of the Turks and Arabs transacting their business, and at the same time smoking their pipes cross-legged before their stalls, are very Oriental.

During the four days we stayed at the very good Peninsular and Oriental Hotel we rambled often in the bazaars, and were delighted with the variety of costumes of the Arabs, Turks, Armenians, &c, and the various goods displayed, especially the red and yellow striped scarfs, &c, in the Armenian bazaar. The picturesque appearance of the Turkish bazaar is rather destroyed by the great length, regularity, and width of the street. The shops are like large cupboards, in the back part of which the goods are stowed very untidily. The bench in front of the shop is generally covered with a carpet, and often cushions, and serves as a divan for the shopkeepers and their customers ; but few goods of any value are displayed.

Modern Alexandria has little to interest the stranger. The population has doubled within the last quarter of a century, being now about 70,000. The large Square is more dingy than it used to be, and the dust, a pungent mixture of rubbish and calcareous rock, is insufferable. Few can prolong their stay in Alexandria without aching eyes.

The climate of Alexandria prevents the Great Square from ever looking freshly painted ; nevertheless the large hotels, the English church, the residences of the Consuls, and other buildings, are very

FRENCHMEN.

handsome. The promenade in the centre, planted with trees, and adorned with two fountains and marble seats, is a great improvement ; but when it rains, which it frequently does in Alexandria, the promenade becomes an island, the roads surrounding it being ankle deep in water and mud.

The Pasha has commenced building a large market behind the Peninsular Hotel. If he would make a pier fronting the sea, it would indeed be a benefit. Many streets lead down from the Square to the shore, and strangers naturally turn down them to enjoy the breezes so delicious in this hot climate, but the indescribable filth they encounter soon makes them retrace their steps. The health and enjoyment of the Alexandrians absolutely require the purification of the beach.

The number of Europeans is very great in Alexandria ; some wear the Nizam dress, and others retain their own costume. It is strange to see these wouldbe Turks, and others in European dresses, arm-in-arm on the promenades. Few European ladies are seen in the streets, but it excites one's pity this hot weather, to see the quantity of Turkish females scarcely able to waddle along under the heap of silks with which they give themselves the desired appearance of corpulency.

It is said that there are between seven and eight thousand Frenchmen in Alexandria alone ; they are

SAID PASHA.

working themselves into every employment and business, and, when I was there, doing their best to entangle Said Pasha into irrecoverable debts, mortgaging the revenues of the country for their immense advances ; and, it was rumoured, anxious to clear him from his debts to English and other merchants, that they alone might enjoy the political advantage of being his creditors. At their suggestion, it was said, the Pasha was reducing his army, particularly his cavalry regiments. All appeared alarmed at measures which they thought might end in the country becoming a French province.