Diary and letters of the Reverend Joseph W. Cook, missionary to Cheyenne

Preface

While acting as special preacher at the noonday service in Minneapolis, Minn., during the Lenten season of 1916, it was my good fortune to meet Miss Charlotte Everett Cook, daughter of the Rev. Joseph W. Cook, first resident missionary in Cheyenne and founder of the Church therein.

As a result of the meeting. Miss Cook presented me with what I suspect will prove to be the most valuable historical document relating to the early history of Cheyenne now in existence. It consists of a small quarto copy book of some 120 pages, in which is neatly written, in his own hand, the copy of his letters to Bishops Clarkson and Randall, relating to the condition of things in Cheyenne during the years 1868 and 1869. The interesting controversy between Mr. Cook and Bishop Randall, as to the proper jurisdiction in which Wyoming in general and Cheyenne in particular was located, arose from the fact that in the general convention of the Church held in Philadelphia in 1865, Bishop Randall had been elected to the Bishopric of Colorado, Wyoming and New Mexico. He was subsequently consecrated on December 28, 1865, and went to Denver to take up his duties from that point. On reaching Denver, he found that, owing to some failure on the part of Congress to make appropriation for its expenses, the territory of Wyoming had no existence in fact; therefore, still belonged to the territory of Dakota, from which it was to have been set off. Bishop Clarkson had been elected as Bishop of Nebraska and Dakota, and as such presumed that his jurisdiction extended over what was to be the territory of Wyoming until such time as the new territory to be known as Wyoming became an accomphshed fact.

The interesting considerations of a personal nature set forth in the letters are unfortunately onesided, as the letters of Bishop Randall and Bishop Clarkson, if still existing, have not as vet come to light.

Mr. Cook not only copied his more important letters, but he kept a diary as well. That portion of his diary relating to his sojourn in Cheyenne prior to his departure to Dakota, where he passed the remander of his life as a missionary to the Sioux, his daughter most kindly has had copied and sent to me. In publishing it herewith, in' connection with these letters, it seemed fitting to publish the diary as it was written and to insert the leters under the appropriate date, so that the letter when read should be preceded with its historical setting.

In addition to these letters of Mr. Cook, I have added as an appendix two letters of his contemporary at Laramie, the Rev. John Cornell, who is still living, and this interesting correspondence dovetails admirably into the diary and letters. Taken together, they form the one first-hand written documents of the origin of the Church in Wyoming now known to .me.

The subject matter contained in the volumn has already appeared serially in The Wyoming Churchman during the years 1917 and 1918. The form in which the diar>' and letters are related to each other constitute the onlv difference.

N. S. Thomas.

Diary of the Rev. Joseph W. Cook, Missionary to Cheyenne, and Letters to the Rt. Rev. R. H. Clarkson, D. D., and the Rt. Rev. Geo. M.

Randall, D. D., kindly furnished by his Daughter, Miss Charlotte Everett Cook.

MR. cook's DIARY^ 1 868.

Jan. 14th. Crossing the dreary, desolate plains, stretching on every side far beyond the reach of human vision ; mottled with black from the annual burning of the grass ; a tree seen once only in many miles until we came to Pine Bluffs, and then only scattered thinly over the hills; seldom a habitation except the stations about every twenty miles. The wind blew! hard and cold all day. Talked considerable to three Blue Noses who were going out to the mines to seek their fortunes. There was but one female on the train, and she only a part of the way. Arrived in Cheyenne about 7 :oo o'clock and finding Mr. Chas. Sherman's quarters at the bank, proceeded there forthwiith. Was not in. But Mr. Berger, his associate, received me kindly, and I waited for him. When he returned I delivered my letter from Bishop Clarkson and received a very kind and pleasant welcome. He begged me to cast in my lot wiith him here, as he had an empty bed. I was very glad indeed, and highly appreciated his kindness.

Jan. 15th. Took boarding at Ford's saloon opposite at $15.00 per week. After breakfast walked out to view the place, and was amazed at what had been accomplished in five months ! It is wonderful. The air was quite cold, but I found that I did not suffer from it as in the east, but that on the contrary it was delightful. Went to a house to inquire the way to the fort, and I stumbled upon a churchwoman, Mrs. Morrow, who was rejoiced to see a clergyman of the church. Sat and talked with her for a good while, and did not go to the fort, as it is some distance ofif and it was late.

Jan. 1 6th. Wrote long letter to Bishop Clarkson giving an account of my trip and misfortune in the matter of the pocket-book, and my first impression of Cheyenne. Delivered my letter to Mr. Reed, engineer of construction on U. P. R. R., and he gave me a hearty, kindly welcome. Took box of roots and plants which I brought with me to ask Mrs. Morrow to store them in her cellar. Called on Mrs. Street, whom I found a baptized member of the Church, also Mrs. Halliday, a communicant, and her mother.

Jan. 17th. Called on Mr. Whitehead's family. Found that gentleman away, but his sister-in-law received me kindly and claims to be a churchwoman. One of the most charming winter days I ever experienced. An overcoat was superfluous, and yet the little snow and ice in the streets melted but little. Mr. Reed kindly invited me down to smoke a cigar, and I had a good deal of a talk with him about the prospects of the Church, and also about Cheyenne and the railroad. Invited me to go to the end of the line with him tomorrow, but was obliged to decline on account of necessity of preparing something for Sunday. We have been in a crowded state at the bank for the last two nights. No less than seven of us ! Four in beds, one on lounge and twb on the floor. Of course, it was impossible to accomplish anything, and even devotions were almost impossible. Mr. Reed kindly invited me to make use of his quarters to do my literary work in, which I gratefully accepted. Mr. Berger asked me if I would like to take a look at what W0.s to be seen here. I intimated that I would, and so he conducted me through the great gambhng hell opposite, which was crowided with poor simple souls selling themselves to the devil. It made my heart ache to see them so earnest in their destruction. We went also to the museum, but I saw nothing out of the wlay there until he directed me to a stereoscope in one corner, where upon one turn I found obscene and lascivious pictures, and there stood a man (?) feasting his eyes upon them !

letter to bishop clarkson.

Cheyenne, Dakota Territory,

Friday, Jan. 17th, 1868.

Right Rev. R. H. Clark son.

My Dear Bishop : — I started from Philadelphia on New Year's night after having had the misfortune to lose my pocket-book on my way to the depot. I think from the circumstances it could not have been picked, but that it fell out of my pocket and was picked up by the conductor of the street car. I went to the office and made every effort to discover it, but, of course, the conductor knew nothing of it. There was about $150 in it. My kind friend, Mr. Fallen, said he wiould take further measures for recovering it, and as I had a ticket to Cincinnati and had left $20 with his son to pay a balance on a tailor's bill, he advised me to take that and go on, and if the pocket-book was not recovered by the time I left Ohio, to obtain funds from my cousin in Cincinnati. So I came west on the next train. I spent the second Sunday after Christmas in Springfield, O., and then went on to Cincinnati. There was no news of the pocket-book, and so I borrowed $100 from Mr. Hamlin and started west. I reached Chicago on Thursday the 9th inst. Presented your letter to Mr. Dunlap at his house where I was received with the utmost kindness, and very agreeably entertained, as they urged me to stay until the night train. Mr. Dunlap gave me a pass to Omaha. I arrived in Omaha on Saturday, nth inst. and presented your letter to the rector. Mr. Redick invited me to take up my quarters with him, which I did. I remained in Omaha over Sunday and assisted the rector at morning prayer and again in the evening, and preached.

Also assisted Mr. Tongue at the mission and preached. On Monday evening I bade adieu to Omaha and entered upon the last stage of my journey, for which Mr. Van Antwerp very readily obtained me a pass. A snow storm had been raging all day in Omaha, and we were somewhat fearful of being snowed up on the plains. But the snow grew less and less as we progressed until on this side there was scarcely any to be seen. I reached here in safety on Tuesday evening and w&s asked to take a seat in a "buss" for the "only first class hotel in the city." I was landed at the Rollins House, and on entering the place found myself in a billiard room with a large and glittering bar on one side. I ascertaned the whereabouts of Mr. Sherman, which was close by, and proceeded at once to his quarters in the bank and presented your letter. He received me very kindly and begged me to take up my quarters with him as he had an extra bed. There are twio others in the bank. Besides the large office there is a small sitting room in the rear, and a small bed room with two beds. This is the headquarters of quite a number of persons, and of course very little quiet can possibly be obtained in any part of the place. Last night, e. g., there were no less than seven of us, four in bed and three upon the floor. At present I am taking my meals at a restaurant at the rate of $15 per week for ''square meals." I am told that a room with a fire at the hotels, together with board, cannot be obtained at less than $26 per week. At present I suppose I cannot do better. But, it may be, after I have got somewhat better acquainted, that I may be able to find some little nook where I may be able to study and write with some comfort. Had I the money I would put up a little house and bring my sister out, for 1 think that we can keep house cheaper than 1 can board. I presented your letter to Mr. Reed and found him very pleasant and seemingly very glad to see me and much interested in our church project. And now as to those matters I will try to give you my first view of the situation. Mr. Reed told me he has secured two lots for the church in a very good situation, on the school block. I have discovered several communicants of the Church and quite a number who are nominally church people and attached to our worship. All seem delighted to see me and rejoice that something is to be done to affect the terrible state of things in this worst of all places under the sun. Mr. Reed was to have met Mr. Sherman and myself yesterday to talk over matters and to take steps towlard providing a place for our services. But he did not come. I met Dr.

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Scott, the ^lethodist local preacher, and he informed me that he has the use of the city hall on Sunday afternoons and evenings. And that he had left the mornings open, thinking someone would be along shortly with some other kind of service. He is engaged in a thriving business in the canned fruit and furniture line, and cannot pursue both business and preaching, and so expects some regular preacher here after a while. There is a nice school house here already finished — but the carpenters have a lien on the buildings and will not allow it to be used for amthing until it is cleared. The ^Methodists informed me that they had engaged it for sendees as soon as it can be released. Mr. Sherman has just informed me that he and Air. Reed met and talked some over matters last night, and that they are of opinion that the school house may be bought, and he expects to inquire into it today. It would be very well adapted to our purposes for the present. I will write you again shortly and let you know the state of the case. I sent through by express my books, making a moderate sized box, and two trunks filled wjith bed clothing, etc. I have received the bill from Wells Fargo & Co., and the amount is $94 ! It is an outrageous bill, and I have not the means to release the goods. The husband of one of our communicants, Mr. Morrow, is in their office here, and he may be able to get some reduction. I have not yet seen him as he has been absent. But I fear the reduction will be small.

I think there are somewhere about four thousand people here. The amount that has been done here is wonderful, and the activity of the place is surprising, and the wickedness is unimaginable and appalling. This Is the great centre for gamblers of all shades, and roughs, and troops of lewd women, and

■12 — bull-whackers. Almost every other house is a drinking saloon, gambling house, restaurant, dance house or bawdy. In the east, as a general thing, vice is obliged in some measure to keep somewhat in the dark, and a cloak of refinetiient is thrown over it. But here all is open and above board, and the eyes and ears are assailed at every turn. Last evening right by us here was a terrible shooting affray, and one poor wretch was shot through the jaw and another through the arm. A large wagon train came in today, and we shall be likely to have a repetition of last night's deeds and perhaps worse. If there ever was a place which needed a standard lifted up against the enemy, it is here. I feel almost powerless in the presence of it. But I realize that I am not sent in dependent on my own strength, but commissioned by the Holy Ghost and the Church of God. I must open my commission even here, and proclaim the Gospel of the grace of God whether these poor souls will hear or whether they will forbear, and depend upon Him to bless my humble efforts. You are probably aware that Rev. Mr. Tuttle has been transferred to the fort here. He is expected today or tomorrow. Although I should at once have been rendered comfortable had I myself been appointed, and the salary would have enabled me to get well settled in preparation for the work here, yet I doubt not it is all right. And I confess that I feel much more comfortable and encouraged by the fact that I have a clerical brother near upon whom I may depend for sympathy and advice, than though I were isolated as I feared I would be,

I am charmed with the climate here. With the exception of those searching winds which go to the very bone, it is delightful. Today is one of the most beautiful days I ever saw. The place is not protected from the winds as we supposed. Long's Peak, 70 or 80 miles distant, is in sight, and the Rocky range glittering white with snow in the clear sunshine. We seem to be still on the plains, although at a very high elevation. I don't believe this can be an agricultural region. It probably would be with the means of irrigation, but Crow Creek, on which we are situated, is quite small. But the Cache la Poudre above may do something for us. There is not to be seen a single tree within many miles of us.

I hope to be able to give you something more definite with reference to church matters in a few' days.

May God bless and prosper you, my dear Bishop, and hasten your journey to us.

With sincere regards, yours in Jesus Christ and his Church, ' Joseph W. Cook.

Jan. i8th. Beautiful day, but the wind made it unpleasant to be out. Went and took possession of Mr. Reed's quarters and wrote sermon on I Cor. 11:2. Showing what I believed St. Paul's policy was in licentious Corinth; and that I proposed to follow the same course in my ministry here, viz., to combat sin by presenting the old truths of the Gospel and the Church of Christ, and striving not to be drawn aside by side issues. Mr. Sherman was able to get the school house for our services. I put a couple of notices in the papers announcing morning service. Spent the evening in various work. W^ent to Mrs. Morrow's to ascertain whether Rev. Mr. Tuttle, the Chaplain of the Post, had arrived. He got there just as I was leaving. Sat and talked with him awhile. Asked him to assist me tomorrow.

Sunday, 2nd after Epiph., Jan. 19th. Beautiful day, and the air was delicious. Prepared for service and went to the school house. Mr. Tuttle was called upon to attend the funeral of a poor young woman who died from an overdose of morphine, and so could not be with me. Sent me his Mission Services to use. Mr. Test brought them, and I was glad to make his acquaintance. Begged me to go and see him. Put on my surplice and celebrated divine service, and preached. Seventy-five persons present, joined in responses heartily. Was fortunate in starting familiar tunes and the whole congregation sang with a will. Was glad to discover some fine voices. Several persons came to me after service to express their pleasure, and to give me Godspeed. Headache came on after dinner and I was quite unwell. Probably bilious from eating three ''square" meals a day. Took considerable of a walk with Messrs. Berger, Ruth and Glover. Afterwards lay down upon the lounge and Mr. Ruth came again and we talked over many points of science and Christianity. Went to Mrs. Morrow's to tea with Mr. and Mrs. Tuttle and spent evening in pleasant conversation. We started for P. O. and passing, stopped at school house a minute to see what the Methodists were doing. Found the house well filled, and Dr. Scott ranting. Called at Dr. Latham's office and Mr. Tuttle introduced me to him. After left Mr. Tuttle and called in at Messrs. Adams and Glover's drug store and talked awhile. Sung a great deal with Mr. Sherman today, and it has been very pleasant.

Jan. 20th. Another charming day. I have never experienced anything like it in the East. The cHmate is magnificent. Mr. Reed called and asked me to go down to this office, which I did. Sat some time. Gave his judgment for an immediate organization of the Church here. Wrote letter to Bishop Clarkson telling him of the progress of affairs here.

Wrote up journal. Walked with Mr. Berger and called upon Mr. Test, Mr. Paine, and Mr. Abbott. Dr. Alden, Post Surgeon, called on me, and told me what he had done towards securing subscriptions for the Church at Fort Russell. Found him very agreeable. Mrs. Street called to give me an invitation to a donation party to be given to Dr. Scott, the Methodist local preacher. Could not bring myself to the point to go, having such a disgust for such things. Wrote letter in answer to one from Mr. James Fuller inquiring about Cheyenne as a place for him to establish himself.

letter to bishop clarkson.

Jan. 20th, 1868.

Rt. Rev. R. H. Clarkson, D. D.

My De:ar Bishop : — We succeeded in obtaining the school house for our services yesterday morning. It had been nicely cleaned, and the only discomfort that wie had was that it was yet a little damp. The day was charming and auspicious for the commencement of our public work here. We did not know definitely that we could obtain the house till the afternoon of Saturday so there was but little time to give notice. I made a few calls and mentioned it, and put notices in two of our daily papers. Yet there were a great many who did not learn of it until after the service. Rev. Mr. Tuttle arrived on Saturday night, and I invited him to assist in inaugurating the services here, which he intended to do. But Mr. Rollins, keeping a hotel here, and an old member of Mr. Tuttle's parish in Illinois, sent to request him to officiate at the funeral of ^ young woman who died from the effects of an overdose of morphia. So I was alone. He however lent me his mission services (and by the w^ay I don't know what I shall do without some of those services). I have about thirty prayer books, but they are not sufficient. Since writing the above, Mr. Tuttle has been in and informs me that for the present he can divide with me the mission services which he has, about 200, which will relieve me of the difficulty.

There were about 75 persons present yesterday, and they entered heartily into the services, responding well and conforming to the postures. The singing I conducted myself. I sang tunes which I supposed Would be familiar, and I was surprised and delighted, for it seemed as though everyone present joined in and sang with a will. I discovered that there was considerable musical talent in the congregation, and I have hopes of shortly forming a good choir which, of course, will add to the interest of the services. I preached a short sermon from i Cor. II :2 — "For I determined not to knozv anything among you save Jusus Christ, and Him Crucified." Simply explaining what I conceived to be St. Paul's policy in wicked, licentious Corinth, and stating the object for which I am here, and my determination, by the help of God, to pursue the same policy with the Apostle, and to present the old facts of the Gospel and the Church of Christ, believing that they are still filled with divine energy to the pulling dow^n of the strongholds of sin, Satan and death. A number came to me after service to welcome me and bid me God speed.

I was invited to attend the Methodist services in the evening, but aside from being quite unwell, which would of itself have prevented me, I thought it best to take that stand which would sooner or later have to be taken, and so did not attend. Mr. Tuttle and iy~ myself had occasion to pass the school house during their meeting, and we found it filled respectably. I hope during the week to obtain a place in which to hold our Sunday school. To the surprise of myself and many others the city was remarkably quiet yesterday. Many of the shops were closed, and numbers of persons were to be seen on the streets who had seemingly made an effort to recall some of the associations of Sunday and civilization by changing their clothes and tidying up, and trying to enjoy a little rest from the turmoil and excitement of the week. The hurdy-gurdy at the "Museum" ceased its daily and nightly groaning and grinding, to the great relief of the nerves of many who have some music in their souls, and the band which by day and night calls multitudes of poor simple souls to the great gambhng "Hell" opposite paid respect to the Lord's Day also.

There are a great many people here who are either Churchmen or accustomed to our services and in sympathy with us. I am surprised at the number whom I have already discovered. And as is usual, they are the more intelligent and respectable of the population. The editors of two of the three daily papers are nominally Churchmen, and are very kind in offering their papers as channels of communication, to give notices, etc.

In talking with Mr. Reed this morning, he gives his judgment for an organization at once, instead of w'aiting until we have had services for a while. Mr. Tuttle thinks he will be able to offer me a home at his quarters as soon as he gets settled, which will both give me a quieter place for study and writing, and also, probably, very much reduce my expenses. I shall be sorry to be removed out of the city — about two and a half miles — but it is probably the 'best I can do for the present in the crowded state of this wonderful place.

I hope you will be able to come to us as soon as you possibly can after your return to your jurisdiction. Yours in Christ and His Church,

Joseph W. Cook.

P. S. Mr. Sherman desires me to present his regards to you. I find him very kind and pleasant, and both he and Mr. Berger, who is associated with him in the bank, have quite prevented me from becoming low-spirited, and I feel greatly indebted to them for their kindness. J. W. C.

Jan. 2ist. Finished a letter to Mr. Davis. Major Woolley called on me and talked over Church matters and offered his services for furthering the interests of Church here. Was very much pleased with the Major. Called on Mrs. Kuykendall to inquire after her brother. Called at Mrs. Marten's, Taylor's, Shakespeare's, Manion's, and Cornforth's. Called on Mrs. Tuttle at the Rollins house, and had the pleasure of meeting also Mrs. Doherty.

Jan. 22nd. Nice day with the exception of the wind. Wrote to Mrs. Smith. Major Woolley called and presened Dr. Alden's compliments and an invitation to take up my quarters with him. Accepted the same. Called on Dr. Moore (grandson of Bishop Moore of Virginia)] and met also his partner. Dr. Heimberger, an Israelite. Called on Mrs. Gardner and not finding her in, went into her husband's saloon and talked with him awhile. Called on Mrs. Street and had a long talk on Church matters. Prepared my trunks for transfer to the Fort. Suffering a good deal from cold and sore throat.

Jan. 23rd. Beautiful day. Letter from Rev. Cortlandt Whitehead of Black Hawk, Colorado, announcing that I have been transferred to Colorado and congratulating me upon same. Gives me very kind invitation to share his bed and board, etc. Cannot but consider it a calamity that Cheyenne has been transferred just nozv. I hope for the best, but I fear. Wrote to Mr. Whitehead. Election day in Cheyenne, for city government. Considerable excitement. Mr. Sherman running for Treasurer. There was some shooting on the street today and so I did not go out until the streets were cleared by the presence of cavalry from Fort Russell. Major Woolley called to say Dr. Alden could not be ready for me until tomorrow. New clerk arrived at Bank from Omaha, Mr. Rhous, a German. Had considerable talk with Mr. Maxwell, a correspondent of a Cincinnati paper, on religious subjects, especially that of church unity.

Jan. 24th. Most beautiful day. Wrote to Dr. Irving, Secretary Board of Missions, remonstrating against being transferred to Colorado just now, and giving my reasons. Wrote to Rev. Mr. Van Antwerp with reference to a cabinet organ, as a Mr. Smith came in today to make my accquaintance and offer his services to get up a choir. A man called to ask me to go to the Hospital to see a man by the name of Aiken, who wishes to see an Episcopal clergyman. Went round and received a welcome from Dr. Irwin in charge, whom I found friendly to the Church and interested in the establishing of services here. The man was suffering from tubercles in his lungs. Was quite penitent and anxious to do better, as he has been a wanderer both in body and soul. Talked and prayed with him and he seemed comforted. Major Woolley called with Dr. Alden to take me out to the Fort and I came with them. Established myself with the Doctor in his quarters, and then dined with

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Major Woolley and his wife and family of clerks. Dr. Alden took me to his hospital and showed me the Fort. Called on Brother Tuttle and wife at General's headquarters. At home, commenced reading "Great Missionaries," and had a quiet evening. Colonel Bartlett, son of Prof. Bartlett of West Point, called. Also letter from Brother Rogers of Austin, Texas, inquiring after me and wishing much to hear from me. He has been very successful at Austin, but yet does not count it his home. Feels that his work is to establish churches.