Church and Sunday school handicraft for boys

Front matter

CHURCH and

A. NEELY

Class 1 1 HqO

Contents

CHAPTER PAGE

I THE CHURCH WORKSHOP .... 11

A Solid Workbench—A Vise—A Bench- Stop—A Box Bench—A Tool Board—

Chapter I

A Solid Workbench—A Vise—A Bench-Stop—A Box Bench— A Tool Board—An Odd-Job Nail-Box.

The maintenance of building equipment, the con¬ struction of bazaar booths, scenery and properties for plays and other entertainments require the use of tools, and are reason enough for a basement work¬ shop if the shop is nothing more than a corner large enough to accommodate a bench and afford working space. Few church basements are so equipped, be¬ cause the busiest men of the community are usually the hardest workers in the church, and have enough demands on their time without casting about for something to do.

You can appreciate the need of a bench in the church building if you have a home workbench. You know how much better you can plane a board held in a bench vise than one held by hand, and how much better you can perform all tool operations on a solid bench than on a rickety table, box or chair. If you 11 haven’t a home bench, you had better make one like that shown in this chapter, or like one of the benches described in “Home Handicraft for Boys” or my other handicraft books. Then, suppose you build a second bench for your first handicraft contribution to the church. Possibly the janitor is ruler of the basement domain, in which case it would be well to consult him before installing the bench.

A SOLID WORKBENCH

There isn’t much work to the construction of a bench like that shown in Figure 1, and it can be built quickly. Figure 2 shows the completed framework.

The Legs A are 2-by-4s 28 inches long. Top plates B are 2-by-4s, and end cross-rails C are l-by-4s, each 29 inches long. Side cross-rails E are l-by-4s 5 feet long, and diagonal braces D and F are l-by-4s. After cutting the pieces, build the pair of end frames, spiking plates B to the ends of legs A, and nailing rail C and braces D to the legs as shown in Figure 2. When these frames have been assembled, connect them with rails E and diagonal braces F. Test the corners of the frames with a square, before nailing the diagonals in place, to make sure that they are right angles.

The Bench Top requires three pieces of 2-by-10- inch stuff 6 feet long. Set the first and third planks even with the ends of plates B, and project all of the ends 6 inches over the end frames. Spike the planks to the framework, and drive the heads well below the surface. Next, nail the apron G (Fig. 3) to the

Fig. I. THERE isn’t much work to making a bench like this

Fig. 6

Fig. 5

FlG. 2 . THE COMPLETED FRAMEWORK OF THE WORK-BENCH

Figs. 3-5. details of the bench-vise Fig. 6. a bench-stop front of the bench. Cut this out of a l-by-10-inch board. Trim off the ends as indicated.

The Bench-vise requires an iron bench-screw (Fig. 4). This will cost about 75 cents at a hardware store. Cut the vise jaw H (Fig. 5) out of a piece of 2-by-6 20 inches long, bore a hole through the center of one face 6 inches below the top to receive the bench-screw, bevel off the top as shown, and notch the lower end for sliding-strip I, which is 1 by 3 by 14 inches in size.

The bench screw runs through a hole in the benchapron and leg, and screws into the threaded socket (L, Fig. 3) provided with it. The socket must be set into the inner face of the bench leg and be fas¬ tened with screws.

Sliding-strip I (Fig. 5) is a guide for the vise-jaw. When you place work in the vise, and adjust the peg in the right hole, the strip keeps the lower end of the jaw from pushing in too far. Make a pocket with blocks J and strip K, as shown in Figure 3, for the sliding-strip to slide in, and use a wooden peg or iron bolt for the peg M (Fig. 5).

A Bench-stop. Cut a block of wood 4 by 6 inches in size, make a Y-shaped cut in one end (Fig. 6), and screw it to the left end of the bench top to shove work against.

A BOX BENCH

For odd jobs in the church building, a small bench like that shown in Figure 7 will save the wear and tear on chairs and tables which generally result from their use as saw-horses and benches. Being light in weight, it can easily be carried from room to room. And the compartments inside the box will accom¬ modate a few tools and a nail-box.

This type of work-bench is also a good individual bench for use in Daily Vacation Bible Schools, for coping-saw problems. As it is easily made of inex¬ pensive materials, a number of them might be pro¬ vided for class work.

Use a Packing Box that is strongly made of good material and if any of the boards show signs of loosening, reenforce the nailing. Also, procure four % inch by 3 inch strips for legs, and several addi¬ tional strips for compartment partitions. The ordi¬ nary height of a work-bench is 32 inches, but this

Fig. 8. this is the way to use the coping-saw on the

BOX EENCH

can be regulated to suit one’s height. If the bench is to be used for coping-saw work, it can be of table height, and the boy working at it can sit on a box stool, as suggested in Figure 8. Saw a V-shaped notch in the front edge of the top (Fig. 7) for the coping-saw to work in. The piece to be sawed can be placed over the notch, and will be supported on both sides of the saw. Fasten a board across the front qf the box, and partition the inside into compartments as shown.

A TOOL BOAED

The board in Figure 9 will accommodate a small tool outfit such as should be on hand in a church building for odd jobs. The outfit suggested consists of a cross-cut saw, hatchet, hammer, bit-brace and two sizes of bits, hand gimlet, chisel, screw-driver, file, pliers, try-square, coping-saw and keyhole-saw. In addition to these tools there should be a plane, but this should be kept upon a shelf as it is a tool that cannot be hung up very well. If every tool is kept in its place, the board will be found convenient. Occasionally a tool will be missing or hung on the wrong hooks. A good plan is to draw an outline of each tool upon the board, as suggested by dotted lines in Figure 9, then a person can see at a glance what tool is missing, and borrowers can see where to hang tools when they return them.

The Size of the Board will depend on the number of tools to be provided for and their lengths. The best way to arrive at the dimensions is to take all of the tools and arrange them upon a table in some such way as the diagram of Figure 9 suggests. By careful planning you will see how the tools can be fitted close together so little space is lost.

Fig. IO. DETAIL OF TOOL-BOARD

Build Up the Tool-board of boards A, as shown in Figure 10, fastening these together with end battens B. The number of boards to use will depend on the width of the tool layout, and upon the width of the boards you can get. If you use boards % inch thick, battens B can be nailed to the board ends, but if you use box boards % or % inch thick, the battens should be fastened to the back of the boards and the nails driven through the battens and the boards and clinched.

Hangers . Screw-hooks, or nails with large heads, should be used for hangers for the tools (Fig. 10). Long, slim tools like wood-bits cannot be supported in a vertical position as easily as tools with handles.

You can provide screw-eyes or staples to support the upper part of these and a block to support the lower ends (Fig. 9).

AN ODD-JOB NAIL-BOX

Tacks, brads, nails, screws, screw-eyes, picturehooks, and other small hardware would often bring a premium if they could be produced at the psychologi-

FlG. II. A HANDY NAIL-BOX cal moment when a committee is on hand to decorate the church or Sunday school room. Some one al¬ ways knows that the desired tacks or nails are some¬ where but somewhere is too indefinite. The odd-job nail-box shown in Figure 11 will be easier to find than a box of 4-oz. upholstering tacks. Its fourteen compartments will take care of most of the sizes of small hardware used for odd jobs.

The Parts. Box boards % inch thick can be used for the box. A pattern for the bottom is given in Figure 12, a pattern for the sides in Figure 13, and a pattern for the ends in Figure 14. The double lines on the patterns of the bottom and side pieces indicate saw slots made to receive the edges of the partitions. Locate the slots in the places indicated and cut them % inch deep.

Fig. 13 oi k

15 §, i

IP 8

Fig. 12

Figs. 12-15. patterns for the nail-box

In Assembling the Box , nail together the side and end pieces first, then nail the bottom board to their edges.

The Compartment Partitions are of tin. Cut them out of tin cans, with tinsnips, or an old pair of shears. Figure 15 is a pattern for these pieces.

Slip the partitions into the slots cut for them, and fasten them in place with a center strip of wood wide enough to lap half an inch over their inside ends. To this center strip screw a drawer-pull or window sash-lift at the center of its length for a handle to carry the box by.

Finish the Box with a coat of shellac, paint, or wood-stain.

Chapter II TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE DAILY VACATION BIBLE SCHOOL

Cork Toys: A Horse—A Porcupine—A Pig—A Pigrich Bird— A Duck—A Teeter—A Bed—A Chair—A Table—Pots for Toy Plants—A Javelin.

Pendulum Toys: The Seasick Landlubber—The Ouija Bird. Tumble Toys: Tumble Tom’s Trick Ladder—Topsy Turvy Blocks.

You boys may think some of the ideas presented in this chapter too elementary in character for a boy’s book of handicraft but bear in mind that this is first of all a book of service. Maybe your younger brother or sister will want to make some of the sim¬ pler things in the Daily Vacation Bible School, and you can lend such assistance as is needed. In fact, if you are beyond the age for attending the Daily Vacation Bible School, you might render valuable assistance to the school leaders by helping with the handicraft instruction.

There is a growing feeling among teachers of the Daily Vacation Bible Schools that the handicraft activities of the boy and girl pupils should not be confined to toys and other things made solely for play, because the real purpose of the work is lost sight of, and the child looks upon the program as only a means to add to his possessions. It is true that there is danger of encouraging selfishness by making too much of the “make your own toy” idea. It is better to include material that will be of service to others—mother, father, the church, Sunday school, and the community. In following chapters and in

Fig. 18

Figs. 16-18. the horse

“Home Mechanics for Boys,” much material will be found for a varied program—large articles for groups to make, small articles for individuals. But toy-making should not be eliminated from the pro¬ gram. Handled in a proper manner, there need be no cause for criticism. The work can be done in a wholly unselfish spirit. The toys need not be re¬ tained by the makers, but may be given to missions, sold at the close of the vacation school and the receipts given to charity, sold at the toy or handicraft booth at the holiday bazaar of the churches the chil¬ dren attend, or given to poor children at Christmas

Fig. 19. THE PORCUPINE time. And will it not be a more unselfish act for the child to give away the toy that he has made, and in which he sees possibilities of fun, than some other piece of handicraft designed for grown folks to use?

CORK TOYS

This line of toys has always appealed to me as among the most fascinating to make, and they inter¬ est young and old alike. When I was a lad, my brother and I made a whole menagerie of cork ani¬ mals for the church bazaars of two successive years, and they sold like hot cakes; everybody wanted to take home as a souvenir one of the curiously formed creatures with gilded bodies. About this time, too, I told how to make these animals and other cork objects in my first handicraft article 4 ‘Cork Toys,” published in “The Chicago Record.” Since then I have explained the work in books and in magazine articles, so perhaps your parents have made the toys, perhaps you have made them in a vacation school where these books and articles have been used. But new ideas included among the following suggestions will be worthy of notice.

CORKS AND OTHER WORKING MATERIALS

Corks for toy making may be saved from emptied bottles, but this source of supply need not be de¬ pended upon entirely, for corks can be bought inex¬ pensively at drugstores and ten-cent stores. In ad¬ dition to corks, there must be some cardboard (box cardboard will do), yarn, beads, toothpicks, burnt matches, pins and glue. For cutting the corks use a sharp knife or a coping-saw.

COBK ANIMALS

The Horse (Fig. 16) has a body made of two tap¬ ered corks, with the small ends glued together. Use the pattern in Figure 17 for the head, and glue this

Fig. 22

Fig. 22. THE PIGRICH BIRD

FlG. 23. PATTERN FOR HEAD FOR THE PIGRICH BIRD AND THE PIG in a slot cut across the end of the body. The legs may be toothpicks or matches; glue them in holes in the cork body. The tail is made of several strands of yarn tied to a pin (Fig. 18), and the pin is stuck into the body.

The Fwiny Porcupme (Fig. 19) has a tapered cork body, toothpick legs, a cardboard head (Fig. 20) and toothpick quills.

The Pig (Fig. 21) may be made in the same way, omitting the quills, making a head like the pattern (Fig. 23) and using a piece of wire for a tail.

Fig. 27

Figs. 24-27. the duck

Because cork birds and animals are funny crea¬ tures at best, it is proper to devise varieties other than those found in zoos. With a little thought all sorts of specimens can be produced.

The Pig rich Bird (Fig. 22) is a peculiar specimen. Isn’t he a dandy with his ornamented neck? Five glass beads strung upon a toothpick form the neck, the cardboard head (Fig. 23) sticks upon the tooth¬ pick neck, and the toothpick legs have beads glued upon their ends.

The Duck (Fig. 24) is one of the many floating toys which can be made. Figure 25 shows the head and neck, Figure 26 the tail, and Figure 27 the keel fastened to the under side of the body to prevent up¬ setting. The keel should be a piece of cardboard coated with paraffin or a piece of tin.

The Teeter . Figure 28 shows a teeter for a cork animal circus. The strip of cardboard used for the

SO CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT teeter is bent down at the edges and pinned to the ends of a straight cork. Holes may be punched for the animals ’ legs to stick in.

CORK FURNITURE

Enough cork furniture can be devised to furnish a doll’s house.

A Bed . Figure 29 shows a bed. This has a card¬ board mattress, cork feet, and a pillow made of two tapered corks.

A Chair . You will not deny that the chair in Figure 30 has style. The seat is a pickle bottle cork; the legs and back are made of long pins wound with yarn. Figure 31 shows how to weave the yarn around the pins of the chair-back.

Fig. 32. A TABLE

The Table in Figure 32 has a pickle bottle cork top, with pins stuck around its edge. Upon the pins

Fife. 33. A POT FOR A TOY PLANT

yarn is woven in the same manner as the chair-back. The legs are pins with glass beads slipped onto them and pushed down to the heads, and they are wound with yarn.

Pots for Toy Plants . Tapered corks make excel¬ lent pots for a doll-house (Fig. 33), and the plants can be made of paper, or pieces of artificial fern may be used.

A CORK JAVELIN"

If you have never made a cork javelin to toss at a target, you have missed a lot of fun. Figure 34

Fig. 34. a javelin

shows how to make one by inserting a needle in the bottom of a tapered cork, and a feather in the top.

PENDULUM TOYS

The Seasick Landlubber Toy . This mechanical toy, shown in the photographs of Figures 35 and 36, is adapted from a pen-tray designed and made dur-

Fig. 36. THE MAN, BOAT AND WAVES ARE EASILY WHITTLED OUT

Fig. 35. THIS SEASICK LANDLUBBER TOY IS OPERATED

BY A PENDULUM ing the war by a disabled soldier of the Lord Roberts Memorial Workshops, London, England. The origi¬ nal, in my possession, is one of the most comical models I have seen and I believe that this mechanical

Figs. 37 and 38. details of wave strips Fig. 39. the landlubber’s boat Fig. 40. PENDULUM FOR rocking the boat adaptation, shown in the illustrations, will prove a most interesting toy to you boys. Place it on a man¬ tel shelf, on a bookcase, or on a bracket fastened to a wall, so the pendulum and suspending cord swing free and clear, and it will become a permanent source of fun, a novelty each visitor to your home will en¬ joy.

This might be called a jack-knife model, because practically all of its parts can be whittled.

The Waves are made of two strips cut from a box board % inch thick. Figure 37 shows one strip (A) and Figure 38 the other (C), with dimensions for laying them out. Scallop the tops as shown, to form waves.

The Rowboat is also a piece of box board. Lay it out by the pattern of Figure 39. Notice that the upper edge of this block curves slightly between bow and stern. Pivot the boat between the wave strips on a screw driven through strip A, slipped through a hole in the hull a trifle larger than the screw, and driven part way into strip C. Spool halves D (Fig. 37) are separators fastened between the ends of the wave strips. Place iron washers on the screw pivot each side of the boat. Nail strip A to base block B, a block 5 inches wide by the length of the strip.

The Pendulum is a piece of broom-handle 8 inches long with a screw-eye screwed into one end (F, Fig. 40). Use heavy cord for the suspension cords. Dou¬ ble a piece 54 inches long, loop it through the screw-eye in the end of the pendulum, and tie the end to a pair of screw-eyes of the size used on the back of small picture frames, screwed into the hull of the boat at points G (Fig. 39). Join the cords 6 inches below the boat hull as shown in the photograph of Figure 35.

The Landlubber has a shoulder block (H, Fig. 41), head (I), spiral-spring neck (J, Fig. 42), and arms and hands (K, Fig. 43). Cut shoulder block H by the pattern in Figure 41. Tack it to the center of the back of the boat so it appears above the boat as shown in the photograph.

His Head . Cut a block of soft pine 1% inches square for the head block (Fig. 44). With your knife cut off the comers as shown in Figure 45, then continue cutting until the corners are rounded and the block becomes spherical. When you are satisfied

Fig. 41. DETAIL OF HEAD AND SHOULDER Fig. 42. SPRING FOR NECK Fig. 43. hand

that you have a perfect sphere, rub up the surface with sandpaper until smooth. Figure 46 shows the completed head. Suggestions for painting will be given later.

His Neck is a spiral spring 1% inches long. Get a piece of spring brass wire of fine gauge, and wind it about a ten-penny common nail, pushing the turns close together, until the coil of the desired length has been obtained (Fig. 42). If you cannot get spring brass wire at your hardware store, buy one of the

S6 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT spiral brass curtain-rods that sell for 5 cents at the five-and-ten-cent stores, and cut a piece off one end. A section of one of these springs was used in the model illustrated. Drill a hole % inch deep in the head, to receive the spiral spring. Attach the other end of the spring to shoulder block H with small staples, as shown in Figure 41. Cut a notch in the edge of the block, as shown, for the spiral to rest in.

Figs. 44-46. how to whittle the head out

Fig. 46

OF A BLOCK OF WOOD

His Hcmds should be cut by the pattern in Figure 43. Fasten them to the side of the boat with glue and short brads.

You have been told how to assemble each part as prepared. But the assembling should only be done for the purpose of seeing that parts fit properly, for all parts must be separated for painting.

Finishing. Several colors should be used for fin¬ ishing. Enamel paints are best, and these can be purchased in quarter-pint cans. Two coats will be necessary to cover perfectly. The waves should be a light blue with the crests indicated in white. The boat should be white, striped with black to indicate seams. A band of red should be added to the upper edge. The seasick landlubber’s head should be gray¬ ish white, made by mixing a bit of black in white paint. Features and hair should be indicated with

Fig. 47 . THE OUIJA BIRD roosts well upon a mantel shelf

black paint. Follow the diagram in Figure 46 in marking the features. The base block (B) should be painted blue, the pendulum (F) red. Allow surfaces to dry twenty-four hours before assembling parts, so the paint will be perfectly dry.

When the seasick landlubber model is completed, you may find adjustment of the neck necessary to give the head a realistic poise. If yon have been on a rough sea you may know all about it.

The Ouija Bird roosts well upon a mantel shelf or plate-rail, where its pendulum is free to swing (Fig. 47). Note that the pendulum causes the head and tail to move. You do not have to be an artist to make the bird. You can cut it of any shape or size you want. In the detail drawing (Fig. 49), A shows the body, B the head and neck, and C the tail. The neck and tail are pivoted to the back of the body with tacks, at the points G, and strings I are attached to tacks driven at points H, and are tied to a screw-eye in the end of a piece of broom-handle J (Fig. 50) which forms the pendulum.

The Toy Is Mounted upon a board base D (Figs. 48 and 49), by means of a round stick E, one end of which is glued in a hole bored in base D, and the

Fig. 49

Fig. 49. details of ouija bird pendulum toy

Fig. 50. BROOM-HANDLE PENDULUM other in a block F, which block is fastened to the back of the body.

Paint the Parts before assembling them. Here you will have opportunity to execute something un¬ usual in plumage.

Fig. 51. TUMBLE TOM AND HIS TRICK LADDER Fig. 52. PATTERN FOR LADDER FlG. 53. PATTERN FOR TUMBLE TOM

TUMBLE TOYS

A hammer and a pair of scissors are the only tools required to make these tumble toys, and the material can be found in every household.

Tumble Tom’s Trick Ladder (Fig. 51) is made of a stick 3 inches wide and a trifle longer than 23 inches (Fig. 52). If you find a piece of wood wider and longer than these dimensions, it will not be necessary to cut it down. The rails and rungs of the ladder can be drawn with the spacing indicated on the dia¬ gram of Figure 52, and whatever additional width and length remain can be left as margins. Use a ruler and pencil to mark off the ladder. First, draw the side rails, then along them lay off the spacing for the rungs and draw a pair of lines for each.

Along one rail, opposite each rung, drive a brad or nail % or 1 inch long (Fig. 51), and in the other rail drive a brad or nail halfway between each pair of rungs. This completes the ladder.

Tumble Tom may be drawn from the model shown, or you can use a picture cut from a magazine. The picture must be drawn or pasted upon a piece of cardboard cut of the shape and size shown in the diagram of Figure 53.

How the Toy Works . Figure 51 shows the start of Tom’s tumble. If the arms are cut as shown, they will slip off the nails alternately, and Tom will de¬ scend rapidly to the bottom. If you wish, you can prepare two or three tumblers and start one after another down the ladder.

The Topsy Turvy Blocks shown in Figure 54 deceive the eye. Apparently the block next the top tumbles from its place to the bottom of the string, but in reality it simply turns topsy turvy and each succeeding block does likewise.

The String of Blochs can be made as long as you wish. Eight or nine is a good number. They may be cut out of thin wood but the set shown in Figure 54 is of cardboard, which is easier and quicker to cut. Figure 55 shows a good size to make them.

The blocks are connected with pieces of heavy linen thread. Each block requires three threads, ex¬ cept one end block which requires none. Cut the threads 4% inches long. For fastening the threads to the cards, cut gummed paper or adhesive tape into small pieces. The gummed flaps of envelopes may be used.

To Assemble the Blochs, first stick three threads to all blocks except one, placing one thread at the center of one end and two near the edges at the other end, as shown in Figure 56. When the threads have been attached, it is only necessary to connect the other ends to adjoining blocks. You will readily understand how this is done by studying the dia¬ grams of Figures 57 and 58, which show opposite faces of the blocks. Letters A and B represent the threads upon alternate blocks, and letters C and D represent the threads on the intermediate blocks. You will notice that all of the A and B thread ends are fastened to the same face, and all of the C and the D thread ends to the opposite face. Turn the blocks about so that the ends will come as shown, compare the model with the diagrams to be sure that

Fig. 55. PATTERN FOR BLOCKS

Fig. 56. FASTEN THREADS TO EACH BLOCK IN THIS MANNER Fig. 57. ONE FACE OF THE ASSEMBLED BLOCKS FlGo 58 . REVERSE FACE OF THE ASSEMBLED BLOCKS each block is placed correctly, and then fasten the thread ends. Leave a space of % inch between the blocks.

To Start the Blocks Tumbling, hold an end block with one hand and turn it over endwise. Doing this will cause the second block to turn over as shown in Figure 54. The tumbling second block will cause the third block to turn over, and so on down to the end of the string.

Chapter III

A Whisk-Broom Holder—Candle-Sticks—A Thermometer Board —A Calendar-Board and Pen-Rack—A Post-Card Rack— A Clock-Shelf—A Broom-Holder—A Holder for Safety- Matches.

Handicraft mentioned in connection with bazaars suggests fancywork, because that is what we find at handicraft booths, as a rule. It is the work of the ladies and girls of the church and Sunday school, not of the boys, however. You haven’t been called upon to serve in any way, have you? You haven’t even “carried water for the elephants,” so to speak, for an admission ticket. Why are you and the other boys not asked to contribute? I will tell you why. It is because no one has an idea of your ability to sup¬ ply a line of saleable articles. Let the bazaar com¬ mittee see what you can do, and ask them to allow you to demonstrate your ability to sell articles that you make, in a boys’ handicraft booth, and there will be no danger of your not being invited to serve in the same way each succeeding year.

THINGS TO MAKE

There are an unlimited number of articles that you can contribute to the holiday bazaar. Half a

Fig. 59

Fig. 60

Fig. 59. A WHISK-BROOM HOLDER DECORATED WITH A PASTED PICTURE