Plantation game trails

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Preface

To have been able, during a matter of nearly thirty years, to follow the game trails of the great plantation region of the delta of the Santee — this has been my privilege. I have seen my homeland undergo great transformations during those years: the plantations have for the most part become waste tracts; many of the old families have died out; Nature has recaptured in her inimitable way what had been, for a few years, wrested from her. The game has held its own on these desolate plantations; and that is saying much in the modern day.

In these chapters I have tried to give a faithful account of the observations I have made as a hunter and as a lover of Nature. I have tried to present the wildwoods of the South as I have known them since boyhood. And I have attempted to preserve the memory of certain characters which have appeared to me worthy of a place in the picturesque gallery of American woodsmen.

viii PREFACE

For the dual attitude of hunter and naturalist I offer no apology — save to confess that as the years advance the latter is acquiring a wholesome ascendancy.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

For courteous permission to reprint certain chapters of this book, the author makes grateful acknowledgment to the editors of Country Life^ Field and Stream^ and Forest and Stream.

Contents

I. My Friend the Deer 1

II. Hunting in a Freshet 22

III. Stalking Wild Turkeys 47

Chapter I My Friend The Deer

It was the middle of May in the woods of South Carohna, and the time of day was noon. I was riding along leisurely, trying to drink in a portion of the marvelous beauty of the scene which stretched away from me on all sides; a scene in which bright birds flashed, wild flowers gleamed and glowed, and great trees seemed to shiver and expand in the ecstasy of their springtime joy. Suddenly my attention was arrested by a strange and beautiful sight. Far through a forest vista a doe came bounding along gracefully. She showed neither the speed nor the tense, wild energy of a deer in flight; therefore, I judged that she was not being followed. And as it is very unusual to see a deer traveling about at midday, there must be, I reasoned, some unusual cause for the doe's movements. Slipping from my horse I watched her approach. She was bearing to my left; and while still a hundred yards away she turned abruptly to the right, leaped, with a great show of her snowy tail, a hedgelike growth of gallberries, and then came to a stop in a stretch of breast-high broom-grass. As her running had not been that of a fugitive, so her pause was not that of a listener and a watcher. Instead of standing with head high and ears forward the doe bent her beautiful head, and from the slight movements of her arched neck I knew that she was nuzzling and licking something that could be nothing but a fawn. I tied my horse and quietly drew near, but, alas, generations of hunting have made deer incapable of distinguishing between a friend and an enemy. To a mature wild deer the scent of a man is the most dreadful of all warnings that death is near. As I came up the doe winded me, tossed up her beautiful head, leaped over the high grass, paused to look back, then bounded off again. If there is such a thing as reluctant speed that doe showed it. She went and went fast, but clearly she did n't want to go. Indeed, when three hundred yards off she came to a stop, and after that she did not increase the distance between us. As I approached the fawn the little creature stood up, swayed on its delicate legs, and took one or two uncertain steps away from me. But though startled, it was not frightened. It let me come up to it, stroke it, and prove my friendliness. Indeed, after I had turned away from it the delicate woodland sprite bleated faintly and followed me for a step or two. Far behind, among the glimmering aisles between the pines, the doe began to approach her baby as I receded from it. When I had mounted my horse and ridden some distance away, I caught a glimpse of the mother and baby together again.

This scene of the woodland illustrates a typical incident in what I shall call the "inside life" of our Virginia deer. American hunters are quite familiar with these beautiful creatures, as objects of sport; but few indeed, even of those who know the deer well in a general sense, have an understanding of the real nature and everyday habits of these most interesting creatures. Whatever I know of deer has been gained from many years of experience in the woods; and perhaps a statement of this experience will be of interest to those who care for details of an intimate nature of the lives of the woodland wildernesses.

The little scene described shows us much about the deer. After the birth of the fawn the mother will leave it in a sheltered, sunny spot and will go away to feed. This is a daily habit. Sometimes the doe will go several miles, and will return twice or three times a day to nurse her fawn, the frequency of her return depending on the age of the fawn. When a fawn has thus been placed by its mother it will not leave the spot. I once knew this habit to be pathetically illustrated. A negro worker in the great turpentine woods had brought me a fawn, and I was raising it on a bottle. It slept in the house at night; but early in the morning it would go in its wary, delicate fashion to a patch of oats near the house and lie down. There I always found it for its midday bottle; and there it would remain until I brought it in at dusk. Except when disturbed — by hunters, dogs, or swarms of flies — in all regions where deer are hunted they very seldom move about in the daylight; but a nursing doe's mother instinct overcomes her timidity, and she travels from place to place for her food. When the fawn is very young she never leaves it at night. This mother-and-child relationship lasts until the fawn is at least six months old. I have seen a fawn — possibly a "late" one — following its mother in December. The doe was started first; she ran off a short distance and waited for the fawn to overtake her, when both of them bounded oflf.

As deer secrete themselves by day it will be interesting to follow them into some of these secluded sanctuaries in order to discover what kind of cover they like best, and what precautions they use to secure themselves from danger. Deer retire to their fastnesses in the early morning; a man never sees a deer in ideal surroundings unless he sees it coming forth to feed at twilight, or returning in the misty dusk of morning. Always an unsubstantial creature the deer is peculiarly so when seen in shadowy forests. In approaching the place where he is going to lie down for the day a deer — especially a wise old stag — will try to cross, and even to follow, water. This always is an effective barrier to trackers. I was once walking in a swamp, following a trailing hound, when ahead of me I detected a slight movement. Against the gnarled roots of a tree standing in shallow water a deer was lying, literally curled up. It did not leave its refuge until I was almost on it.

Favorite bedding-places for deer are hummocks or tiny islands in sluggish water-courses. Often, too, where the growth is dense on the edges of woodland pools, a deer will walk across the water and lie down on the other side. Then he will need to be alert for danger from one side only; and that the side which his tracks have not traversed. In sections where there are growths of laurel, tamarack, scrub cedars, and other evergreens, these dense coverts will be haunts of deer. Much, however, depends on the season of the year and on the state of the weather. In the winter, on clear days, deer seek for southern exposures, sunny and wind-sheltered. I once started a drove of seven deer lying in a tiny amphitheater made by fallen logs. The dense top of a fallen tree is a favorite place with deer.

In violent storms, by night or day, deer will speedily make for open stretches of woods, where they will not be in danger of falling limbs and trees. After such a tornado it is no uncommon thing to find many cattle killed ; but I have known of but one deer to be killed in this way. If the weather is rainy deer will move about in the day in search of shelter. An old hunter told me that if a snowstorm sets in during the day, he always looks for deer under the densest hemlock trees on the mountain. One day I was going home through a heavy rain, when I was astonished to see a great buck cross the road ahead of me and go into a very heavy myrtle copse beside the road. Being unpursued and showing no signs of fear he was evidently merely getting in out of the wet. There was something positively bored about his expression; it resembled that of a chicken, which, being caught in a far corner of the yard in a shower, runs disgustedly for shelter.

During those periods in summer when gauze-winged flies are a torment, deer resort to the densest thickets, and at such times they do Kttle lymg down. I remember coming, on an August day, upon three deer — they were a family — on the edge of a heavy copse. Being unobserved and unsuspected, I saw the creatures behave in what must have been a most natural manner. There was continuous petulant stamping, much flicking up and down of the ends of tails — precisely after the manner of goats — and an impatient tossing up and down of graceful heads. The buck, which carried fine antlers, once lowered his stately head and made a sudden tumultuous rush through the dense bushes. Probably he did this to clear himself from the flies and in order to ease the itching which was making his velvety horns tingle. As soon as I showed myself two tall white tails and one tail-let rocked off in standard fashion into the thicket.

As deer are seldom seen by day except when they are disturbed, the time to observe them is at night; but, naturally, they are even less frequently seen then. In regions where deer are plentiful their shadowy forms are seen crossing old roads or clearings at dawn and at dusk. No one can have an accurate idea of the true life of the wild deer who has not observed the creature browsing by moonlight. Now that most of the .animal enemies of deer have been practically exterminated in the white-tail's habitat — such enemies as wolves and catamounts — deer fear the dark less than the light. Their movements are bolder and freer; by daylight a deer is seldom aught but a skulker, a fugitive. In the Southern pine-woods I have watched deer at night, and they seemed to me stranger, wilder, more dreamlike creatures than any I had observed by daylight.

Near our plantation house there was the ruin of an old negro church. This stood in a circular clearing of about an acre in extent, sur-

A Flash-Light Shot rounded on three sides by scrub pines, and on the fourth by low myrtle and gallberry bushes. For some reason the clearing had remained inviolate of growths of any kind. In the center was the ruined church, which was ringed by an arena of pure white sand. I discovered that deer loved to come to this place at night, partly because it lay between their daytime haunts and their favorite night feeding-grounds, and partly because deer seem to love open sandy places — "yards" they are sometimes called. I buried some rock salt in the sand by the old church, knowing that the deer would find it and come to it regularly. Then in the forks of a pine I built a suitable platform, about sixteen feet up. I should have hidden among the timbers of the old church but for the fact that a deer "travels by his nose." Both by day and by night a deer's eyesight is comparatively poor; it is not to be compared to the clairvoyant seeing power of a wild turkey. But a deer can generally wind and locate a man, if he is not well off the ground. During the still nights of good moonlight in November and December I spent many a solitary hour on this platform, waiting and watching for deer, and being richly rewarded.

In order that sorae tirae might elapse between my coming on the ground and the arrival of the deer, I always ascended the platform at sunset. I shall try to describe exactly what I saw and heard from this platform on a typical night.

Though near a plantation road it was at least three miles from any habitation. There were therefore absent many of those sights and sounds which characterize the Southern planta- • tion twilight. Sometimes I could hear the melodious whooping of a negro, but usually the only sounds were from the wild denizens of the woods. In the dim distance an owl would hoot; perhaps a fox would bark; and once I heard the cry of a wildcat, utterly savage. Then the risen moon would begin to steep the woods in light, and with the coming of the moonlight there seemed to be a cessation of the wild cries; there was movement in the forest, the mysterious movement of wild life that hunts by night or is hunted. Long before I could see anything, I could hear furtive steps, glimpse a swaying bush, and hear twigs crack. Animals of many kinds were prowling; the half -wild hogs and cattle that infest:the Southern pine woods; the crafty raccoons, pacing along well-worn paths; the silent foxes, the very spirit of craftiness; the hushed-winged birds that love darkness better than Hght. Last, after I had been on the platform nearly three hours, came the deer.

No other creature of the forest seems more a shape of the moonlight than does the deer. It is apparently possible for the largest buck to move through the dense bushes and over beds of dry twigs with no perceptible sound. A movement rather than a sound oflE to my left had attracted my attention; another glance showed me the glint of horns. A full-grown stag was in the act of jumping a pile of fallen logs. He literally floated over the obstruction, ghostlike, uncanny. I noticed that he jumped with his tail down — a thing he would not do if he were startled. Behind him were two does. They negotiated the barrier still more lithely than the buck had done. Even in the deceptive moonlight and at the distance they were away from me — fifty yards — I could easily discern a difference in the aspect distinguishing the buck from the does; the stag was bold, proud, impatiently alert; the hinds were hardly less alert, but were meek followers of their master. All three of them were feeding; but at no one time did all of them have their heads down at the same moment. One always seemed to be on watch, and this one was usually the buck. For a few seconds at a time his proud head would be bowed among the bushes; then it would be lifted with a jerk, and for minutes he would stand champing restlessly his mouthful of leaves, grass, and tender twigs. Often he would hold his head at peculiar angles — oftenest thrust forward — as if drinking in all the scents of the dewy night woods. After a while, moving in silence and in concert, the shadowy creatures came up on the space of white sand which stretched away in front of me. Now they paused, spectral in the moonlight, now moved about with indescribably lithe grace, never losing, even amid the "secure delight" of such a time and place, their air of superb readiness, of elfin caution, suppressed but instantly available. The steps they took seemed to me extraordinarily long; and it was difficult to keep one of the creatures in sight all the while. They would appear and reappear; and their color and the distinctness of their outlines depended on the angle at which they were seen. Broadside, they looked almost black; head-on, they were hardly visible. At no time could I distinguish their legs. When they moved off into the pine thicket, whither I knew they had gone to eat mushrooms, they vanished without sound, apparently without exerted motion, and I was left alone in the moonlight.

In addition to his fondness for mushrooms the deer is also a great devourer of hazelnuts, chestnuts, acorns of many kinds, — especially those of the white oak and of the live-oak — beechnuts, pine mast, and the like. Occasionally he will eat apples; and I have known peach-trees to be wholly stripped of their half -ripe fruit by deer. Of domestic crops the deer will eat anything green and succulent; he delights in wheat, rye, buckwheat, oats, aKalfa, rice, sweet potato vines, young corn, timothy, turnips, beans, and peanutvines. Deer have been known to pull up peanutvines in order to get at the nuts, which they greedily relish.

In order to obtain these green crops of the field and garden deer resort to some very crafty devices. A great hunting club in the South had planted several acres of peas to attract quail; the deer found the peas in the early summer, and every night a herd of six or seven jumped the sixfoot fence. The fence was raised to eight feet, and this height the marauders did not negotiate.

But possibly it was because they did not have to. Whenever I think of the jumping power of deer I am reminded of a shrewd remark once made to me by an old woodsman: ''A deer can jump as far or as high as he has to." In this case the deer, to enter the field, got down in an old ditch, crawled under the wire fence, and found themselves in clover. And so baflBiing was the manner of the deer's entrance that the manager of the preserve could not account for it until he had sat up in an oak on a moonlight night and had seen the affair come off.

This striking instance of crafty intelligence may well serve to introduce the question of the deer's mental capacity. At the outset it can assuredly be said that the deer is so intelligent that it is impossible to classify his probable actions. As animals increase in intelligence the chances of their behaving in a regular, unvarying manner are decidedly decreased. It therefore becomes impossible for us to say that a deer will do this or will not do that under certain circumstances, for he has both a certain sense of judgment and at least a rudimentary power of decision. This intelligence is best illustrated by examples of the deer's cleverness.

A buck in cover, if he hears what he takes to be danger approaching, will carefully weigh his chances; though it is his instinct to run up the wind, he will dash down it if in such a course appears to be his way to safety. If from afar he hears the noise and decides that it means danger, he will probably slip craftily out; if the danger is near before he is aware of its approach, he may steal out silently, he may bound out with astonishing vigor and speed, or he may lie where he is, even though the peril be upon him.

After it has passed it is like him to leap up and sail off down the back track of his enemy. It all depends on what seems to him the wisest thing to do under the particular circumstances. A buck will send does or a young buck out of a thicket ahead of him or he may take the lead himself.

One day in the woods I walked within twenty paces of a buck which was lying down on the sand under some leafless scrub oaks. I probably should never have seen him but for the fact that, as he moved his head craftily, I saw the rocking antlers. He had his lower jaw flat on the ground, much like a crouching rabbit. He was planning to have me pass him by, but I disappointed him. Almost the instant that he discerned that I had seen him he bounded up and was gone. A friend of mine had a somewhat similar experience with a buck; only the buck did not wake up until my friend seized him by the horn, when there was a regular tableau. Whether this buck was deaf, I do not know; but the manner of his flight betrayed not the slightest impairment of any of his other physical powers.

When deer are hunted on sea islands, where their range is naturally limited, they will frequently leave their wooded haunts and take to the surf. I have seen a buck go two hundred yards out in shoal water and stand there for hours, with little more than his back and his antlered head showing above the water. Frequently, from a refuge of this kind, a deer will not come ashore until after nightfall. On reaching the beach after such an experience a deer is always plainly exhausted.

From these examples it is easy to infer the degree of a deer's intelligence — the brain power of this mischievous, playful, timid, curious, truculent creature.

I say he is truculent; and on occasions he undoubtedly is. A doe is never dangerous; but a buck in the mating season is a treacherous animal. It is his nature at such a time to attack. It is the time of love, of rivalry, and of combat; and a buck, with his clean, sharp antlers, his new dun coat, is a creature of ugly and uncertain temper. Keepers of preserves are frequently attacked; but I doubt if a buck in a wild state would ever attack a man unless cornered or wounded. If the records of men being injured by wounded deer be examined, it will be found that in the majority of cases the victims have been injured by the wild struggles of the deer rather than by any direct attack of the creature.

At close quarters the sharp hoofs of a deer's front feet are more to be feared than the antlers.

But while bucks very seldom bring man to an encounter, they are forever fighting their fellows, at least until some sort of caste system of superiority is established. In the course of these combats many fatalities occur, the most gruesome of which are the cases of the locked antlers. The fighting of deer is playing with fire.

Often two bucks, in a spirit of frolic or of indolent urgings of strength, will put their heads together just to feel the tingle that must come when hard horn raps against hard horn. They may break off the bout in a friendly spirit, or.

stirred by a painful wrench of the neck or a jab from an antler point, they may enter a battle which gradually increases in fury. This fierceness of the fray may continue even after the battle is ended ; for sometimes the victorious stag will mutilate the body of his fallen rival. This he can do by retreating, turning, bounding back and jumping on his fallen adversary. Carcasses of such bucks have been found which have literally been cut to pieces. Wherever two bucks have been fighting, there will be an arena worn almost bare of verdure by their trampling hoofs. Occasionally on the scene of the encounter a broken part of an antler will be found. Few are the mature bucks that do not show evidences of their having been in battle.

His antlers are, of course, the pride and the glory of the buck. I read recently, in a book of natural history that has had a wide circulation, the following statement: "The older and larger the buck, the finer the crown of antlers he wears." This is not entirely wrong, but it is quite misleading. Deer antlers are directly related in growth to the reproductive processes ; and a buck will wear his most massive crown when his physical powers are at their zenith. This usually comes.

with the white-tail deer, between the fifth and the twelfth years. The size of the buck does not determine the size of his antlers, though the ruggedness of the life he leads may determine to some degree the architecture of his horns. Thus, the wilder the surroundings, the heavier and the more craggy are the antlers. Naturally, this is because in savage environment the deer has great need for his horns as defensive weapons.

In the old days deer had many enemies; and even now in the wilder portions of their habitat some of these enemies are present. Man is the chief; after him are cougars, wolves, wildcats — which kill fawns — and possibly the more savage of the bears, though the smaller bears and deer are known to live amicably in the same woods.

But take it all in all, deer probably have fewer natural foes to contend with than almost any other of the wild creatures. Their closed season is long and is pretty general throughout the sec- ' tions where the white-tail is found.

Occasionally a deer will be killed by a rattlesnake, but far more frequently will the rattler be killed. In sections where alligators infest lagoons, streams, and wood ponds, many deer are taken by these grim saurians. The fawns sometimes suffer from the raids of eagles, particularly golden eagles.

The only disease which makes any considerable inroad into the ranks of the white-tail is black tongue, or hoof-and-mouth disease — anthrax. This is a highly contagious disease, and it is singularly fatal to deer. In riding the woods where such a plague is abroad I have counted as many as eleven deer in various stages of the malady. Such deer act very strangely. Some attempt to run, but fall over. Some lie quite still. Others stand, shaking and shivering as with the ague. The superb normal health of a deer, which enables it almost incredibly to recover from terrible wounds, seems unable to combat this fell disease. Wherever it appears in deer forests its effects are disastrous.

Unless attacked by black tongue, or unless meeting an untimely fate, deer may live for thirty years; Millais, the British authority, says that deer live as long as horses. But the deer's existence is precarious, and few ever attain an age exceeding fifteen years. I have seen several ancient bucks taken, and they gave clear evidences of age: their hoofs were broad, stubby, and cracked; their muzzles were grizzled; their horns were small and scraggly; and even their motions in the woods were as near being decrepit as I suppose the motions of so alert and graceful a creature can ever become.

Such are some of the facts concerning the secret life of the white-tail deer. It is an animal vividly interesting; shy and crafty, swift and elusive, gentle and beautiful. There is no creature which seems more adequately to express the spirit of the lonely wood, the solitary lake, the silent mountain, the gloomy swamp.

He who sees a deer in its native surroundings sees all that is wildest in the wilderness, all that is most haunting in deep sanctuaries, all that is most delicately alluring in remote woodlands, in wild valleys, and on far mountains.

Chapter II Hunting In A Freshet

A SHARP, incisive tack in the seat of his chair, or his wife's entering the room, or the sudden niemory of a friendly black bottle standing lonesome and neglected in the sideboard — any one of these things may make a man spring up animatedly. But, although I sprang all right, none of the aforementioned causes supplied the impetus. Rather was it because, in drearily reading the newspaper while the leaden winter rain poured outside, I had come across, under the "Stages of Water Report," the magic, the gladsome words, "Eighteen feet at Rimini."

These were, I say, magic words. The reason for their being of that exciting nature was simple. For the better part of a week I had been shut in the plantation house, with hardly one respectable chance to get into the woods after deer and turkeys. My brief vacation visit was drawing to a close, and the sport which so far had come my way had in no wise been memorable. But eighteen feet of water at Rimini, a small town some miles above us on the Santee River, meant a freshet with us — and a good one, too. A freshet in the country of the great delta of the Santee means the inundating of all the impenetrable swamps adjacent to the river and the flooding of thousands of acres of delta lands. It means the coming to the plantation mainland of all the deer and turkeys and other game that have been safely harboring in the gross jungles of the river-bottoms. It means the bringing to light of all the splendid king rails and jaunty soras, whose gleesome cackling, while the waters are low and they are inaccessible, is harsh to a helpless hunter. It means the treeing of raccoons, opossums, and wildcats. In short, a freshet in the Santee insures days of great sport.