Our lost explorers : the narrative of the Jeannette Arctic Expedition as related by the survivors, and in the records and last journals of Lieutenant De Long

Front matter

NEWCOMB.

DUNBAR.

OFFICERS OF THE

Chapter I

THE JEANlSnETTE AND HER CREW — VOYAGE TO THE ARCTIC OCEAN.

FAeB.

The Pandora bought, renamed, and fitted out — Ofiicers and Crew — Departure from San Francisco — Anequin and Alexai — Arrival at Northeastern Siberia — Good-bye to Civilization — Last tidings of the Jeannette 17

CHAPTER- II.

A SEARCH FOR MISSING WHALERS AND THE JEANNETTE.

The Mt. Woolaston and Vigilant — Reminiscence of Captain Nye — Sailing of the Corwin — Indian Village at St. Michaels — Bearhunters of Alaska — The starved Islanders — Deserted Villages — Capture of whisky-trading schooners — Cruise in Arctic waters — Interesting incidents — The northern pack and its fatal drift. . . 28

Chapter III. Searches For The Jeannette — Second Cruise Of The Corwin

Search Expeditions of 1881 — The Jeannette Relief -Board — The Corwin starts north — Landing of search party on Siberian coast — Fate of the lost whalers discovered — Exploration of Herald Island — Professor Muir's narrative — Landing on Wrangel Island

— Wreck of the Webster — The G-olden Fleece and Ray's Expedition — Excursion to the Reindeer Chukches — The Diomedes — An Esquimaux Long Branch — No traces of the missing explorers. . . 39

Chapter IV. Searches For The Jeannette — Cruise Of The Rodgers

The Mary and Helen renamed the Rodgers — Ofiicers and crew — Departure from San Francisco — The 180th Meridian — Description of the Bay of Avatcha, Petropavolvsk, and Commander's Island — Slaughter of sea-bears at Copper Island — Voyage to Cape Serdze

— Visit to a Ckukcke village — Wrangel Island explored — An exciting bear-hunt — Waring's adventures — Putnam's winter camp

— The Rodgers goes into winter quarters in St. Lawrence Bay. . . 54

Vi CONTENTS.

Chapter V. Seaeches For The Jeannette — Crtjise Of The Alliance

PAGE.

The Steamship Alliance and her officers — The start from Norfolk Navy- Yard — Voyage to Iceland and Norway — Exciting news — Voyage to Bear Island and Spitzbergen — The midnight sun as seen near Horn Sound — White whales — Walrus hunters at Bell Sound

— Beyond the 80th Parallel — In a fog — A fairy -like scene — View from the crow's nest — Exciting times at Dane's Island — Return to Hammerf est, and home — A phenomenal cruise — Results of the Voyage 71

Chapter VI. Plans For An International Search

No news from the Jeannette — Lost in the Arctic — Lehigh Hunt's Expedition — Action of London Geographical Society — Reminiscence of the Franklin Search — Plans of operation — Opinions of Arctic travelers 79

Chapter VII. First Tidings From The Explorers

Startling news from Irkutsk — Arrival of some of the Jeannette's crew on the Siberian coast — Official telegrams — Prompt action of Russian officers — Second Cutter missing — A season of suspense — " By Baikal's Lake. " 83

CHAPTER VIIL

THE SIBERIAN TUNDRA.

A land of desolation — The Tundra in summer — An animated scene

— Arctic moss — Graphic description of the Tundra in winter — Dreariness, cold, and solitude — Frozen in mammoth and rhinoceros — Curious legends of the natives — Fossil ivory — The ' ' isle

of bones." 91

Chapter IX. The Lena River And Its Delta

A mighty river — Its head- waters and tributaries — Ledyard's travels, and voyage down the stream — Hospitable Russians — Valley of the Lower Lena, and its inhabitants — Description of the Delta — Immense sea-coast — Seven great arms of the Lena — A wonderful sight — The Vega and Lena — A disappointing pilot — Johannesen's voyage up the river — Amusing incidents — Curious customs and ceremonies — Ludicrous thanksgiving service — Extinguishing a •clerk.' 98

CO-NTENTS. Vll

CHAPTER X. ENGINEER MELVIIiLE'S NARKATIVE

FAOB.

Melville in command of whale-boat — His story of the voyage and sinking of the Jeannette, the retreat south, the separation of the boats, and the landing of his party — The discovery by natives, who conduct them to a village where startling news from Nindermann arrives — Searches for De Long — The survivors at Yakutsk. Ill

CHAPTER XL

LIEUTENANT DE LONG'S KECOKDS.

Copies of four records found in huts along the North channel of the Lena, which were left there by De Long as he retreated southward. 125

Chapter XII. Experiences Of Nindermann, Noros, And Leach

Yerbatim copy of Nindermann's letter written at Bulun — Noros's story of his parting with De Long when he and Nindermann were sent on for relief — The narrative of Mr. Leach 130

Chapter XIII

The ' City of the Yakuts ' — The Cossack conquerors of Siberia — The Province of Yakutsk — Natives, Russian peasants, and exiles — Yakuts and Tonguses — Ostyak tents — Winter dwellings — Customs of the country — Priests — The ' Pole of Cold ' — Interesting notes of travelers — A storj^ of Russian jealousy — Ledyard's eulogy of women — Life at Yakutsk 140

Chapter XIV

The capital of Eastern Siberia— A cheerful resting-place ■ — Description of the city and its suburbs — Lake Baikal — Valley of the Angara — Account of the great fire of 1879 — The fire brigade — Ludicrous scenes and incidents — Religious processions — Mr. Jackson's journey to Irkutsk — Meeting with the Jeannette crew. 154

CHAPTER XV. LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER's NARRATIVE

The story of the expedition — Sailing of the Jeannette — Daring the ice-pack — Frozen in — Drifting — Life on ship — A break-up — Anequin's discovery — Tremendous pressures — Severe gales — A bad leak — Starting the pumps — Hunting excursions — Chipp's experiments — Exciting bear chases — De Long's adventure. . , 169

Vlll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVL

XrEUTENANT DANENHOWER's NAURATTVE — (CONTINUED.)

PAGE.

The Jeannette in winter quarters ~ Constant danger — Bear-hunting on the floes — Melville's Canal — Scurvy — Discovery of Jeannette Island — An excursion to Henrietta Island — A curious mistake — Mount Sylvie — Breaking up of the ice — An even keel — A fascinating danger — The hunters' recall — A fatal nip — Abandoning the ship — Encamped on the ice — Sinking of the Jeannette. . . 191

Chapter XVII. Lieutenant Danenhower's Narrative — (contintjed.)

Preparations for a long journey — Sleds, boats, and outfit — Order of march — The start southward — A discouraging outlook — Startling discovery — Ferrying the fissures — The hospital tent — Heroism of men — Land ahead — A dash for the shore — Annexation of Bennett Island — Land-slides — Dunbar's exploring trip 207

CHAPTER XVIII. IiIEUTENANT DANENHOWEr's NARRATIVE — (CONTINTJED.)

Launching the boats — Start for Bennett Island — Deserting dogs — Working south between ice-fields — Fatal delay at Ten Day Camp — Among the New Siberian Islands — Hunting on Thaddeoffsky — A terrible situation — Halt on Kotelnoi — Hunting parties — Stalbovoi — Hunting on Semenoffski — Last interview with Chipp — A start for Siberia — Fearful gale, which separates the boats — Launching a drag — An eventful night — Another day and night. 223

CHAPTER XIX. LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER's NARRATIVE — (CONTINUED.)

Off the coast — Attempts to reach shore — Enter and proceed up a river — A night of agony in a hunting-camp — A dehghtf ul Sunday — Reconnoitering — First meeting with natives — Piloted south by Cut-eared Wassili — At Spiridon's village — The voyage continued. 238

Chapter XX. Lieutenant Danenhower's Narrative — (concluded.)

Arrival at Geemovialocke — The chief's house — Visited by a Russian exile — Attempt to proceed — Return to the village — Decayed geese — Sojourn at the Tunguse village — A native feast day — Arrival of another exile — Entertained at Kusmah's house — The exile starts for Bulun — Danenhower's search for De Long — Startling news — Melville starts to search for De Long — Arrival of Cossack commander — Journey to Bulun and Yakutsk 250

CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XXI. Lieutenant De Long's Log-book

PAGB.

A copy of the Jeannette's log kept by the commander from May 17th to June 12th, 1881, when the ship sunk 263

Chapter XXII. A Roll Of Honor

Report of the Ispravnik of Verkhoyansk — Nicholai censured — Generous natives, exiles, and officials — Danenhower's letter, . . . 370

Chapter XXIII

MR. NEWCOMB'S narrative.

Incidents of the voyage north — Ougalgan Island — Kolyutschin Bay — Skating off Herald Island — Adventure with bears — Singular phenomenon — Sea-gulls — Grand auroral display — Christmas and New Year's entertainments — Indian superstitions — At the pumps — Dangerous excursion — Entomological specimens 37T

Chapter XXIV

MR. NEWCOMB'S NARRATFV'E — (CONTINUED.)

Conflict of the floes — Jeannette Minstrel Troupe — Christmas entertainment — Fac-simile of programme — Mr. Collins's poem — A dream of home — Discovery of new lands — Animal life — A tremendous nip — The Jeannette doomed and deserted — A night on the ice — The ship sinks — A dreadful blank 393

Chapter XXV

Appearance of camp — The retreat begun — Landing on American soil — Tramps on Bennett Island — Among the birds — Interesting volley — Building a cairn — Sailing southward — Adventures among the New Siberian Islands — Start for Siberia — Gales and tempests — On the big land once more — A luxurious hut. . . . 308

Chapter XXVI

A start up the Lena — Meet natives — A dinner with Theodore, Tomat, and Carinie — Pictures of ' saints ' — Horse-hair nets — Old Bushielle — A voyage south — Arrival and long residence at a Tunguse village — Friendly exiles — Dwellings, dress, and customs — Routine of life — Religious feasts — Kusmah, the exile — A present from the Pope of Bulun — De Long in distress — Melville's departure — Journey to Bulun by dog-teams 330

X CONTENTS.

Chapter XXVII. Page

Oood-bye to Bulun — Reindeer teams — Nights in a povarnia — Lassoing reindeer — Experiences on tlie road — Meeting witli exiles

— Arrival at Verkhoyansk — Russian officials — The outposts of civilization — The famous vodka — A village of exiles — Customs of the country — Journey resumed — Cross the Arctic Circle — Retrospective — Exiled Poles — Russian traders — Descending the mountains — Novel sight — Fine scenery — Accidents — Visit to Reindeer Tunguses — A night attack — Curious scenes and incidents along the road by night and day — Odd customs 332

Chapter XXVIII

MR. NEVTCOMB'S narrative — (CONTINUED.)

Approach to Yakutsk — The Mecca of my hopes — Hospitable reception — Sight-seeing — An old fortress — Life at Yakutsk — Evening recreations — New Year's day — The Russian Christmas — Churches and priests — Curious tire-engines — A peculiar people — The start homevpard — ' Jining the army ' — Reception at Irkutsk — Dr. Ledyard — Life in the metropolis — Arrival of Jackson — Noros returns east — A sample of the 'boys.' 343

Chapter XXIX

MR. NEWCOMB's narrative — (CONTINTJED.)

Leave Irkutsk — Meet Harber and Scheutze — Seamen turn back — Journey through Siberia — Sights at Tomsk — The Siberian vromen

— Omsk — Life on the Kirghesiau steppes — Easter Sunday at Throisky — Village entertainments — Russian superstitions — A wedding — Fanciful dresses — A capsize — The Ural River — Osk — The Ural Mountains — Fine views — Kirghese hunters — Cossack villages — Orenburg and the 'iron horse' — An interesting city — Ride along the Volga — Agricultural scenes — Moscow — St. Petersburg — Interview with the emperor and empress — Cronstadt — Hull — Liverpool — ' Home again. ' 353

Chapter XXX

DE long's fate discovered — THE GRAVES ON THE LENA.

The search renewed — Melville at Catli Carta — Visit to Cape Bykoff

— Fearful storms — An account of the search for and finding of De Long and his men — The rifle in the snow — 'All dead' — Removal of the lost explorers — Description of their mausoleum — Inscription on the cross — The tragedy on the Delta — Strange incidents — The nightly alarm fire — De Long's last effort. . . . 366

CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XXXI. Lieutenant De Long's Diaky

PAGE.

A melancholy relic — Copy of De Long's diary extending from October 15th. to the end — A terrible story of hardships, suiierings, and death, and of heroic bravery and Christian resignatioii. . . . 379

Chapter XXXII. New Searchers In The Field

The search for Chipp — Travelers from the East and the West — Berry, Hunt, and Gilder — Harber and Scheiitze's expedition — Preparations at Vitimsk — Hunt and Bartlett join Harber — Meeting of steamers — Homeward journey of the returning explorers. . . 394

Chapter XXXIII. Burning Of The Rodgers — An Ice-floe Tragedy

The Rodgers at St. Lawrence Bay — 'Fire'! — Burning of the Ship

— Escape to the shore — A grand sight — At home with the Chukches — Grace's narrative — Putnam missing — Alarming discovery

— Drifting on the ice — Putnam's sad fate 401

Chapter XXXIV. Life Among The Chukches

Hunting for a living — Fisherwomen, medicine-men, dwellings, customs and superstitions — Visit to Reindeer Chukches — Death of a girl — Life at Camp Hunt — Three strangers — Zane's adventure — Retreat south — Arrival of the North Star and Corwin — Rescue of the castaways — Loss of the North Star 414

CHAPTER XXXV. MR. gilder's TRAVELS IN SIBERIA

The start from Camp Hunt — Traveling companions — "Waiting for Wanker — Chukche amusements — Dancing girls — Love-sick Constantine — Journey to Cape North — A genuine ' poorga' — A night in the snow — The Chukche caravan — A brilliant sight — Ornamental bells — Lost in a snow-storm — Carried over a precipice — Badly frozen — Loss of dogs — On the borders of civilization — A night in a deserted hut — An abandoned village — Picture of life in a cottage — Down the Kolyma — Arrival at Wanker's house — Surprising changes — An old hypocrite — The powerful stranger — Escape from Wanker — Friendly villagers — Arrival at Nishni Kolymsk — Journey to Middle Kolymsk — Description of the town and its people — Curious sights — Antiquated implements — Inside the houses — Interesting exiles — An unpardonable offence — A

Xll CONTENTS.

PAGE.

convenient religion — Pictures of saints — Household devotions — 'Dear little Nanyah' and her guardian — A beautiful sight — 'Vodka,' and the custom of the country — Journey to Verkhoyansk 428

Chapter XXXVI. The Story Of The Forlorn Hope

Additional particulars respecting the parting of Nindermann and Noros from De Long, and of their journey to Bulun. . . , . . 449

CHAPTER XXXVII. ENGINEER MELVILLE'S NARRATIVE — (CONTINtJED)

The voyage from Semenoffsky and separation of the boats — The November search for De Long — Opinion as to Chipp's fate — Finding of the first cutter 463

Appendix

An account of the arrival and reception of Melville and his companions 470

LIST OF ENGEAVrnGS.

Page.

Photographic Portraits of the Officers of the

Arctic Steamer Jeannette, .... Frontispiece. Group op Explorers est Arctic Costume, .... 17 Alexai ajstd his wipe — Their last interview, ... 34

Esquimaux family near Cape Prince op Wales, ... 36 Tattooed woman op St. Lawrence Inland, . . . . 38 The Corwin search party — Sledging on the Siberian coast, 44

A bird nursery, .47

Petropavlosk — Repulse of the Allies, . . . . . 57 Commander's Islands — Slaughter of sea-bears, ... 58 Chukches visiting the Rodgers in skin boats, ... 60 Interviewing a denizen of Wrangel Land, .... 62

Preparing for winter, .70

Hut op wrecked Norwegians at Bear Island, ... 73 Glaciers at Bell Sound, Spitzbergen, ..... 74

Samoyedes of Archangel, 78

The "Rescue," 82

Limit of trees in Siberia, 92

Mammoth skeleton in the Museum at St. Petersburg, . 95 Native op the Tundra, with Siberian rhinoceros-horn, . 96

Siberian river boat, 99

Yakustk, Eastern Siberia, in the seventeenth century, 101 The Vega and Lena saluting Cape Chelyuskin, . . .104

Landing a sea-sick official, 109

Winter yourt, 110

The Jeannette fastened to a floe, 113

Graves in the primeval forests of Siberia, . . . .124 Lieutenant De Long and his men wading ashore, . . 126

The parting on the Lena, 133

Siberian village church, 141

Siberian peasant, with samovar, 142

Ostyak tents made op birch-bark, 143

Native girls of Yakutsk in winter costume, . . . 146 Yakutsk in our days 147

A WINTER journey — AmONG THE DRIFTS, 153

(xiii)

XIV LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.

Lake Baikal, Eastern Siberl^., in winter 155

View in Irkutsk, 157

A city on fire, 161

Exiled criminal in chains, 166

Lieutenant Danenhower telling his story, .... 168

Nordenskiold's winter quarters, Kolyutschin Bay, . . 172

"Whalers stopped by the ice, . . . . . . . 174

Skating on the young ice, 176

The ice in motion, 178

Arctic auroras, 185

De Long's adventure — A mutual surprise, .... 187

In the crow's-nest, 190

Bear-hunting on the floe, 193

Jeannette Island, 194

Arctic glacier, . . , 197

The Jeannette crew abandoning their ship, . . . 203

The sinking of the Jeannette, 206

First camp after starting south, 213

View op Bennett Island 220

Exploration op Bennett Island, ...... 221

"Working south through the ice, 223

Thaddeoppsky Island, 226

Stolbovoi Island, 230

The separation op the boats, 234

Child in Arctic rig, * . 237

Fisherman's huts, 249

"Winter residence op the Russian exile, .... 253

Arctic youngster, 261

Outlines op Jeannette Island, 263

Effects of a nip, 269

On the retreat, 273

Glaucous-winged gulls, 278

Walrus, 281

Effect of ice pressures, 283

"More presh meat," 289

An Arctic sketch, 291

Conflict op the floes, 292

The Jeannette in her last dock, 301

A VISION OF home, 303

Old-world polar dress — prom a painting in the Stockholm

MUSEUM, 307

A SUCCESSFUL hunter, 309

Annexation op Bennett Island, 310

Cairn on Bennett Island, 313

Seal and seal-hole, . . 314

Land-slide at Bennett Island, .... . . 315

LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. XV

Arctic ducks, 317

Log cabin on the Lena, . . 319

Sighting the fikst natives, 821

Our departure from Geemovialocke, 330

Yakut hunter, 331

Good-bye to Bulun, 333

Novel, descent op the mountains, 338

Reindeer Tunguses and summer tent, 340

Russian kibitka, 343

Russian priest, 346

Survivors of the expedition at Yakutsk — ^from: a photograph, 347

Summer yourt, 353

Jumping cradle-holes, 354

A Siberian spinner, 356

A Russian wedding party, . . . 358

A Siberian tarantass, 359

The Great Bell of Moscow, 363

Boundary stone between Europe and Asia, .... 365

The rifle in the snow, . . . . . , . . 369

Melville discovering De Long and his companions, . . 370

The tomb on the Lena, 371

New-world polar dress, 378

A TIME OF trouble, , , , . 383

" Such a dreary, voietched night," ..... 385

Burial op Erickson in the Lena, 387

Burning op the Rodgers, , 400

rodgers seamen attempting to rescue putnam, . , , 410

ChUKCHE COUNTRY HARES, 415

Chukche woman angling, 416

The Starost of the Reindeer Chukches, .... 418

A Chukche dwelling, . , 420

Interior of tent, 421

Man and woman of Tiapka, 435

Seals sporting, 437

Cape North, 440

Beaker sponges from sea-bottom at mouth op the KoiiYMA, 445

MAPS, PLANS, ETC.

Map of Eastern Siberia, showing explorers' routes, . . 16

Map op the Lena Delta, ,16

Plans of the boats, 238

Wassili's chart, 346

Fac-simile op entertainment programme, ... 294, 295

Plan of De Long's last camping place, 374

Chapter I. The Jeannette And Her Crew— The Voyage To The Arctic Ocean

THE American Arctic Expedition, commanded by Lieutenant George W. DeLong of the United States Navy, which left San Francisco, July 8tli, 1879, was projected by James Gordon Bennett, proprietor of the New York Herald. After the return of the last of the two successful expeditions which he had sent to Africa under Henry M. Stanley, Mr. Bennett longed for new worlds to conquer, and decided to send out, at his own expense, an expedition to attempt to reach the North Pole by way of Bering's Straits. Lieutenant DeLong became interested in the undertaking, and the Pandora, owned by Captain Allan Young, was selected and bought as a suitable vessel to convey the explorers.

The Pandora was built in England in 1862. She was a bark-rigged steam yacht of 420 tons burden, with an engine of 200 horse-power, and a wide spread of canvas. She was strongly constructed, and had seen considerable service in the northern seas. In 1873 she conveyed her owner to the Arctic regions for the purpose of searching for records of Sir John Franklin's expedition ; and in 1876 Captain Young cruised in her about the northern part of Baffin's Bay, — having been deputed by the English Admiralty to search for Captain Nare's expedition.

By special act of Congress the vessel was allowed to sail

under American colors, to assume a new name — the Jean-

nette — and to be navigated by officers of the United States

Navy, with all the rights and privileges of a government vessel. The Secretary of the Navy was authorized to accept and take charge of the ship for the use of the proposed expedition, and to use any material on hand in fitting her for the voyage; but upon condition that the Department should not be subjected to any expense on account thereof.

The Jcannette was taken from Havre, in France, through the Straits of Magellan to San Francisco, by Lieutenant DeLong, with Lieutenant Danenhower as navigating officer, and there delivered to the naval authorities at Mare Island. After a thorough examination it was deemed advisable, on. account of the hazardous nature of the contemplated voyage, that her capacity to resist the pressure of the ice should be increased. " This conclusion," says the Secretary of the Nav}^, " was precautionary, merely, inasmuch as she had been well constructed, and was believed to possess ordinary strength."

A large amount of work was subsequently done upon the ship at the expense of Mr. Bennett. She was furnished with new boilers ; iron box beams were put in abaft and forward of the boilers to strengthen her sides ; trusses were strengthened ; additional wooden hooks were introduced and fastened through and through ; her extreme fore end, to the extent of about ten feet from the spar deck down, was filled in with solid timber and caulked; additional strakes and planks six inches thick were introduced to strengthen her bilge ; and her deck frame was renewed wherever required. The cabin and forecastle were padded with layers of felt to keep out the cold, and the poop deck was covered with several thicknesses of stout painted canvas. Boats, tents, extra sails, two extra propellers, extra pumps, a distilling apparatus, a hoisting engine rigged on the spar deck to be employed in warping, all kinds of machinery that might possibly be of use, and everything that could be devised to give safety to the explorers and efficiency to the expedition, were provided. The vessel was fully provisioned and equipped for a three years' voyage.

OFFICERS AND MEN. 19

The following letter was written by Lieutenant DeLong just before the expedition started : —

Arctic Steamer Jeannette, San Francisco, Cal,, July 8th, 1879.

Hon. R. W. Thompson, Secretary of the Navy : —

Sir, — I have the honor to inform you that the Jeannette, being in all respects ready for sea, will sail at three o'clock this afternoon on her cruise to the Arctic regions.

I have also the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your orders of the 18th of June in relation to the movements of the Arctic expedition under my command; and while I appreciate the grave responsibility intrusted to my care, I beg leave to assure you that I will endeavor to perform this important duty in a manner calculated to reflect credit upon the ship, the navy, and the country at large,

I beg leave to return thanks for the confidence expressed in my ability to satisfactorily conduct such a hazardous expedition, and I desire to place upon record my conviction that nothing has been left unprovided which the enterprise and liberality of Mr. James Gordon Bennett and the experiences of our Arctic predecessors could suggest. Your obedient servant,

George W. DeLong, Lieutenant United States Nav}^, commanding Arctic steamer Jeannette.

The officers and crew of the Jeannette were as follows : —

Lieutenant George W. DeLong, U. S. N., Commander.

Lieutenant Charles W. Chipp, U. S. N., Executive Officer.

Lieutenant John W. Danenhower, LF. S. N., Navigator.

George W. Melville, Chief Engineer. J. M. Ambler, Surgeon.

Jerome J. Collins, Meteorologist. Raymond L. ISTewcomb, Naturalist.

William M. Dunbar, Ice Pilot. James H. Bartlett, First-class Fireman. John Cole, Boatswain. Walter Lee, Machinist. Alfred Sweetman, Carpenter. George Lauderback, Walter Sharvell, Firemen. ♦ George W. Boyd, Adolf Dressier, Hans H. Erickson, Carl A. Gortz, Nelse Iverson, Peter E. Johnson, George H. Kuehne, Henry H. Kaack, Herbert W. Leach, Frank Mansen, Wm. F. C. Nindermann, Louis J, Noros, Edward Star, Henry D. Warren, Henry Wilson, Seamen. Ah Sam, and Charles Tong Sing (Chinese), Cook and Cabin Stewards.

Lieutenants DeLong and Chipp were officers of the TJ. S. steamer Juniata on her northern cruise in search of the crew of the lost Polaris. Mr. Melville was engineer of the steamer Tigress when she went north on the same errand. All of the crew were volunteers, selected with great care from many applicants. Ninderman was a member of the Polaris ice-drift party.

A complimentary reception was given by the California Academy of Sciences to the officers of the Jeannette, a few days before their departure. The meeting was largely attended, and many eminent scientists of the Pacific coast were present. In response to an invitation to address the audience. Lieutenant DeLong spoke as follows : —

" When the officers of the expedition which I have the honor to command were invited to be present this evening to listen to the discussion of the Arctic problem, I replied for them and myself that nothing would give us greater pleasure than to be present. At the same time, however, I asked that we might be excused from any active participation in the discussion until after our return from within the Arctic circle. This humble peculiarity of ours, it would seem, is not to be tolerated ; and however unfit I am to reply with any degree of propriety to the very kind remarks that have been made to us this evening, it seems that it is one of the duties that is forced upon the commander of the expedition, as well as a great many other duties. As far as this part of the expedition is concerned, there is really very little to say. By the act of Congress it has been placed under the charge of naval officers, and it has, since the passage of the act of Congress, received the fostering care and encouragement of the Navy Department. It is peculiar as being the first expedition fitted out to penetrate the highest regions of the north byway of Bering's Straits. Ships have heretofore passed through Bering's Straits, rounding Point Barrow, and going to the northward to rescue and relieve Sir John Franklin ; but this is the first purely polar expedition that has ever been despatched by way of Bering's Straits.

LIEUTENANT DELONG's SPEECH. 21

" I dare say that after we have left San Francisco, in our passage to the northern seas, we shall experience very much the same difficulties and hardships and trials that have been experienced by everybody who has gone before us. It is one of the most difficult things — in fact, it is an impossible thing — for one starting out on an expedition of this kind to say in advance what he is going to do. The ground which we are going to traverse is an entirely new one. After reaching the seventy-first parallel of latitude we go out into a great blank space, which we are going to endeavor to delineate and to determine whether it is water or land or ice. You will excuse me, therefore, from attempting to explain what we are going to do. If you will be kind enough to keep us in memory while we are gone we will attempt to tell you what we have done on our return, which, I dare say, will be more interesting than attempting to tell you what we hope to do. I can only return to you my sincere thanks for the kind reception you have given us and for the interest you manifest in our peculiar undertaking."

On the 30th of June the San .Francisco Chamber of Commerce, specially convened for the purpose of expressing the deep interest felt in the expedition by that body, adopted the following resolutions : —

" Whereas the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce is desirous of expressing its deep interest and good-will toward all measures calculated to forward and extend any scientific explorations likely to benefit the commerce, navigation, or agricultural interests of our country ; therefore, on behalf of the mercantile industry of the Pacific slope of the United States of America, be it

'•'•Resolved : That we earnestly offer our cheering words of hearty approval to encourage the well-planned American Arctic expedition about to prosecute from our Pacific coast a continuance of that noble work of polar exploration so gallantly inaugurated and fearlessly advanced by the nations bordering on the Atlantic. On behalf of our city, as a future seat of national wealth and extended commerce, we desire to foster scientific enlightenment ; and this Chamber views with marked interest an enterprise of national importance, sailing from its G-olden Gate, fully equipped with a picked band of brave and resolute men possessed of Arctic experience, whom we feel are capable of winning a successful and glorious record for the nation whose banner floats over them, and whose blessing goes with them. While recognizing with admiration the fact that this expedition is wholly paid for and supported by private munificence, we rejoice that this enterprise is officially endorsed by the United States government, who accord it the national rights necessary to proper discipline, and the suitable dignity intrusted by a great and growing nation whose knowledge it will increase, and to whose honor it will redound. As a national work it will extend the geographical survey and topographical knowledge of our northern boundary ; in the interests of commerce, navigation, and national agriculture it may determine laws of meteorology, hydrography, astronomy, and gravitation, reveal ocean currents, develop new fisheries, discover lands and people hitherto unknoAvn ; and by extending the world's knowledge of such fundamental principles of earth-life as magnetism and electricity, and various collateral branches of atmospheric science, solve great problems important to our common humanity.