Sewing; handicraft for girls; a graded course for city and rural schools

Front matter

HANDICRAFT FOR GIRLS

A GRADED COURSE FOR CITY AND RURAL SCHOOLS

Prepared b/i

CHAPTER I. — Suggestions to Teachers 7

General Directions tor Pupils of Sewing Classes. Drills for Beginners.

CHAPTER IL — Course of Instruction 11

First Year — Third Grade. Detailed Description of Exercises.

CHAPTER IH. — Course of Instruction 20

Second Year — Fourth Grade. Detailed Description of Exercises.

CHAPTER IV.— Course of Instruction 28

Third Year — Fifth Grade. Detailed Description of Exercises.

CHAPTER V. — Course of Instruction 41

Fourth Year — Sixth Grade. Detailed Description of Exercises.

CHAPTER VI. — Course of Instruction 53

Fifth Year — Seventh Grade. Detailed Description of Exercises.

CHAPTER VII. — Description of Stitches 65

Stitches Used in Plain Sewing. Ornamental Stitches. Miscellaneous.

CHAPTER VIII. — Textile Fibers and Fabrics 96

Silk. Cotton. Flax. Wool.

CHAPTER IX.— Costume 105

Dress and Its Relation to Art. Character and Clothing. Economy and Dress. Discriminating Taste in Dress.

CHAPTER X.— Basketry 108

General Directions for making the Coil Basket. The Sewed Baskets.

CHAPTER I.

SUGGESTIONS TO TEACHERS.

The teacher's preparation for the lesson consists in doing each exercise before presenting the lesson to the class. It will take some time to do so, but it will save hours of time and much worry in the end, and the teacher will thus discover how best to present the difficult points of the lesson. A well finished piece gives to the child a complete mental picture of what she is undertaking, and acts as an inspiration; she will work quicker, easier, and better because of it. This impulse and a clear demonstration of the method of doing, will enable her to work far more independently of the teacher than would otherwise be possible, and will give more satisfactory results. Consider the year's work as a connected whole, not as detached lessons.

What are designated as "electives" in this book are designed to meet the needs of classes or individuals doing the work a second time or of teachers who find the regular work too difficult.

Large classes can be handled with less wasted energy by dividing the class into groups that are doing the same work. This saves endless repetition and enables the teacher to give better general supervision. This is the most vulnerable point in class work. A teacher may work laboriously and still waste her own and the children's time by too close an adherence to the individual method of instruction. Those children whose turn comes toward the end of the line will have lost much of the value of the lesson. Children require constant supervision. It is not teaching to examine the work when finished and order it ripped out. The fault is then with the teacher and not with the child. Each successive step should be inspected and corrected before the next one is taken. I would go still farther and have every pupil, even in the advanced grades, submit a sample of her work on every stitch to be used in each exercise. Children are always eager to begin a new piece, and if required to practice until the result is satisfactory will very soon do good work. You then have this to refer to and can hold them to their best.

There is absolutely no value in poor, careless, puttering work. Unless the child has a high ideal and strives to reach it, the time of the lesson is wasted. Encourage self-criticism. Work should be done to one's own satisfaction whether it is to be seen by others or not.

Do not allow pupils to take their work home unless it is some required practice work. It is not the object to cover a certain amount of ground, but to inculcate high standards of excellence and some technical skill. They cannot accomplish this by themselves. I would prefer that classes do not complete the entire course rather than have good work sacrificed to quantity. There is a difference between careful, painstaking effort, and the puttering away of valuable time.

Be sure that every member of the class understands clearly the object of the lesson.

Do not encourage waste by a too liberal supply of material.

Too much stress cannot be laid upon the careful preparation of the cloth to be used. Trim all edges neatly before hemming, facing, gathering, etc. Do not allow children to sew without basting. The time required for careful basting is well spent.

It is not expected that the various pupils of the class will advance with the same degree of proficiency. Some will require a much longer time on an exercise than others. As it is greatly to the advantage of the class in the end, and saves time and tiresome repetition to give each new exercise or stitch as a class lesson, the average pupils should regulate the time for taking up new work. A teacher of resources will find ways and means of bringing up the work of slow pupils, and profitable "busy work" for those who work more rapidly. For the former, a little extra time each day — not as a punishment, but as an opportunity to catch up — would be all that is necessary. For the latter, there is a great variety of interesting, useful work.

It is a pedagogic truism that every teacher, consciously or unconsciously, imparts to her class her own inclinations. An enthusiastic class indicates an ardent interest on the part of the teacher, and a distaste for work and a lack of zeal on the part of the pupils are

SUGGESTIONS

TEACHERS equally indicative of the teacher's attitude. Bear in mind that an unprepared teacher or a poorly presented lesson can make almost any exercise difficult and distasteful to the class. Do not blame pupils for poor work for which you are yourself responsible.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR PUPILS OF SEWING CLASSES.

1. Be sure that the hands are clean.

2. Always sit erect — well back in the seat — with the light coming over the left shoulder, both feet upon the floor, because the body will not become as tired, the hand will not shade the work and it is easier to see the stitches. Do not fasten the work to the knee, because a stooping position easily becomes a habit.

3. Tlace the thimble upon the second finger of the right hand. Either the side or end of the thimble can be used. Never sew without one.

4. Measure the thread either from shoulder to shoulder or from the end of the finger to the elbow. A long thread becomes soiled and worn before being used up and is more liable to knot.

5. Wind the thread once around the forefinger and break from the spool, because the broken thread twists more easily to a point than when cut. Cut the thread from the work when finished to avoid drawing the stitches or breaking at the wrong place.

6. Thread the needle from the end that hangs from the spool. In this way you are working with the twist of the thread and there is less danger of knotting and kinking.

7. Do not wet the thread in the mouth. Roll the end of the thread between the thumb and forefinger and place through the eye of the needle.

8. To tie a knot wind the thread around the forefinger once and a little over, and twist by rubbing the finger down the side of the thumb. With the nail of the second finger bring the knot thus formed to the end of the thread.

9. Hold the unfinished work in the left hand.

10. Do not bite the threads.

11. Trim the selvedge, as it is hard to sew through and draws up when washed.

12. The knot is always buried except in the basting which is to be removed.

DRILLS FOR BEGINNERS.

Drill 1. Threading the needle with cotton. Needle No. 8; colored thread.

a. Prepare the cotton by twisting between thumb and forefinger.

b. Place the thread in the eye of the needle.

c. Draw the thread through with the right hand. Drill 2. Making the knot.

a. Hold the needle in the right hand and the end of the thread in the left.

b. Wind the thread around the forefinger once and a little over, and twist the threads together by rubbing the finger down the side of the thumb. Do not accept careless knots.

Drill 3. Use of the thimble.

a. Push the needle with the thimble.

b. Push the needle back with the finger of the left hand. Never allow a pupil to sew without a thimble.

Drill 4. Threading the yarn needle.

a. Prepare the yarn by loosening the end with the needle.

b. Place the yarn over the point of the needle and draw into a smooth loop.

c. Draw the needle out and thread into the loop.

Needles No. 5 will carry Linen thread — Luster cotton.

Chapter II. Course Of Instruction

First Year — Third Grade, equipment.

Sewing box or Envelope Case.

Thimble.

Needles.

Scissors.

Thread cards.

Practice Piece — Unbleached muslin, 9"x6".

Order of Exercises.

3 repare Thread Cards — Cardboard 4"x4", designed and cut for

r kinds of thread.

Exercise No. 1 — Basting Design.

Exercise No. 2 — Running Design No. 1.

Exercise No. 3 — Overhanding on Practice Piece.

-xercise No. 4 — Pincushion — Cross stitch — Christmas Piece. t

Ixercise No. 5 — Running Design — No. 2.

Exercise No. 6 — Overhanding — Running Designs 1 and 2 together, xercise No. 7 — Running Design No. 3.* xercise No. 8 — Hemming a Towel. | xercise No. 9 — Running Design No. 4.*

xercise No. 10 — Overhanding — Running Designs 3 and 4 toler. Overhanding Nos. 1 and 2 to 3 and 4.*

* J See Electives, page 17.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXERCISES.

Teach: One inch, one-half inch, one-fourth inch. Practice: " Drills for Beginners," page 10.

Exercise No. 1 — Basting.

Materials: Unbleached muslin 5" x 8" stamped with the three basting stitches, No. 1, page 67; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 6.

Make pupils perfectly familiar with the name and use of this stitch. See description of "Stitches Used in Plain Sewing," page 66.

Beginning at the right hand follow the lines of the design with the thread, placing the knots over the dots on the right hand side and fastening over the dots at the left. Under each stamped row of stitches put in one, two, three or more rows, depending upon the rapidity with which each individual works. This will help to keep the class uniform.

Exercise No. 2 — Running.

Materials: Stamped running design No. 1, page 12. Unbleached muslin 6" x 8"; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 6.

Make pupils perfectly familiar with the name and use of this stitch. See description of "Stitches Used in Plain Sewing," page 66.

The object of this model is to give the pupils practice in the running stitch. These designs are more interesting than practicing on plain cloth, so if the work is not satisfactory, cut the knot, pull out the thread, and try again. Give special attention to the knots and the fastening of the threads and the general neatness of the work. Place the knot on the wrong side and follow the lines of the design with the running stitch.

Exercise No. 3 — Overhanding.

Materials: Practice piece; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 6. Teach the Overhanding Stitch on the Practice Piece. See description of "Stitches Used in Plain Sewing," page 66. Change the color of the thread once or twice and teach the joining of the thread. Baste two folded edges together and insist upon neat, careful work.

Exercise No. 4 — Cross Stitch Pin Cushion — Christmas Piece. t

Materials: Unbleached muslin 4}^" x 8"; luster cotton; crewel needle No. 6; thread No. 50; needle No. 6; cotton poplin \Yi" x 8K" stamped with cross-stitch design (or a square of Penelope canvas 4" x 4" may be basted on and the design worked out on this and the canvas threads pulled out). See illustration on page 36.

Make the cushion of the muslin and stuff rather hard with fine sawdust.

Work the cross-stitch design.

Turn to the wrong side one-fourth inch all the way around, and baste.

Fold through the center the short way, wrong sides together, baste and overhand the sides. Draw the cover over the cushion and overhand the remaining side. Finish the edge with a cross-stitch, chainstitch, or twisted cord.

Exercise No. 5 — Running.

Materials: Running design No. 2, page 12, 1" x 8"; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 6.

Follow the lines of the design with the running stitch.

Exercise No. 6 — Overhanding.

Materials: White thread No. 50; needle No. 6. Running designs No. 1 and No. 2 are to be overhanded together. Turn a quarter-inch fold on the long side of both pieces. Base the folded edges together and overhand.

Exercise No. 7 — Running.*

Materials: Running design No. 3, page 12, 6" x 8"; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 6.

Follow the lines of the design with the running stitch.

Exercise No. 8 — Hemming — Paper Folding for a Hem. Materials: Paper 4><" x 7".

Fold the long way of the paper. First fold of the hem, one-fourth of an inch. Turn half an inch hem on one side and an inch hem on the other. Have each child cut from a card a gauge for measuring the hems and insist that the hems be turned evenly.

Teach the hemming stitch on the Practice Piece with colored thread. Trim the edge neatly, fold the hem accurately and baste in place. Bad habits, that are hard to correct later, can so easily be formed in making this stitch that I wish to caution teachers in regard to the position of the needle in relation to the hem, the amount of cloth taken on the needle and the tendency toward making the blind stitch or the damask hem instead of the plain hemming stitch.

Hemming a Towel. t

Materials: Crash, 9" woof, 6" warp; white thread No. 50; needle No. 6; tape 4*^ inches.

Turn one-fourth inch fold on each side and across the bottom and baste. Turn the second fold one-fourth of an inch on the sides and baste. Hem the sides. Turn an inch hem at the bottom, baste and hem, giving special attention to the corners where the bottom hem is turned over the side hems. Hem the top with a quarter-inch hem if there is no selvedge. Sew a loop in the middle of the top on the selvedge edge as follows: Turn in one-fourth of an inch at both ends of the tape. Place the ends of the tape side by side and down one-fourth of an inch from the edge of the towel. Hem around the ends of the tape and back-stitch across the tape just at the edge of the towel.

Exercise No. 9 — Running.*

Materials: Running design No. 4, page 12, 6" x 8"; colored thread No. 50; needle No. 6.

Follow the lines of the design with the running stitch.

Exercise No. 10 — Overhanding.*

Materials: Quilt lining, unbleached muslin 12" x 16"; white thread No. 50; needle No. 6.

doll's quilt

Running designs No. 3 and No. 4 are to be overhanded together. Turn a quarter-inch fold on the long sides of both pieces. Baste the folded edges together and overhand. Running designs Nos. 1 and 2 are to be overhanded to 3 and 4. Turn a quarter-inch fold at the

L6 top of one piece and the bottom of the other, baste the folded edges together and overhand. Baste the lining to the quilt, turn in the edges and overhand. Tack.

Electives.

"("Instead of the pincushion a Child's Picture Book may be substituted.

^Running designs No. 3 and No. 4 may be omitted and the Child's Picture Book substituted. If this is done make a doll's pillow of running designs No. 1 and No. 2 by turning in one-fourth inch all the way around both pieces and overhanding them together. Stuff with cotton or with scraps of cloth cut to finger-nail size.

JInstead of the small towel encourage children to ask their mothers for a dish towel which they can bring from home to hem. Some housekeeper of the neighborhood may be glad to have her dishtowels hemmed for her by the class.

A Child's Picture Book.

Materials: Pink, blue or yellow paper cambric 27 inches; coarse thread; coarse needle; bright, pretty pictures which the children have cut from papers, magazines, cards, etc.; paste.

child's picture book

Fold the cloth through the center with the warp and cut on the fold. Fold both strips into three equal pieces with the woof, and cut. Fold each piece through the center parallel to the selvedge. Place two pieces together and pin at the fold, and "pink" through the four thicknesses, around the edges with a "pinking iron." Do the same with the other pieces. When finished place them all together and stitch at the fold as follows:

1. Mark three holes on the fold with the needle, one in the middle and one two inches above it, and another two inches below it.

2. Tie a large knot two inches from the end of the thread.

3. Insert the needle at the lowest hole, from the inside, and draw it through leaving two inches of the thread to tie.

4. Pass over the middle hole and down through the upper one, out through the middle hole on one side of the long thread, and back through the same hole on the other side of the thread, and tie the two ends of the thread together.

Paste a pretty card or large picture on the outside for the cover. Page the book with neat figures and write the name of the child for whom the book is designed on the inside of the cover. Arrange and paste in the pictures neatly.

Chapter III. Course Of Instruction

Second Year — Fourth Grade, equipment.

Sewing box or envelope case.

Thimble.

Needles.

Scissors.

Thread cards.

Practice Piece — Unbleached muslin 9" x 12".

Order of Exercises.

Prepare Thread Cards — Cardboard 4" x 4", designed and cut for four kinds of thread.

Exercise No. 11 — Seam Sampler — Seam A — Combination Stitch. Exercise No. 12 — Emery Balls.*

Exercise No. 13 — Seam Sampler — Seam B — Stitching. Exercise No. 14 — A Bag — Christmas Piece. f Exercise No. 15 — Seam Sampler — Seam C — Half-Back Stitching. Exercise No. 16 — A Doll's Sofa Pillow.

Exercise No. 17 — Seam Sampler — Seam D — French Seam. Exercise No. 18 — A Pair of Doll's Pillow Cases. § Exercise No. 19 — Seam Sampler — Seam E — French Fell. Exercise No. 20 — Textile Fibers and Fabrics — Silk.

* | § See Electives, page 26.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXERCISES.

Review: One inch, one-half inch, one-fourth inch.

Teach: One-eighth inch, three-eighths inch, seven-eighths inch.

SEAM SAMPLER.

Materials: Plain percale 10" warp, 12" woof; white thread No. 60; needle No. 6.

Five exercises of the Second Year Sewing will consist of seam work on the Seam Sampler. Each stitch will he first taught on the Practice Piece. Make pupils perfectly familiar with the names and uses of the different stitches as they are taught. As the year's work progresses compare the different seams and teach when, where and why these various seams are used in garment making. See description of "Seams," page 90. That the pupils may not lose interest in their sewing the seam work is alternated with miscellaneous exercises.

Fold the percale with the warp into three equal pieces. Cut off one piece. Have each pupil label her large piece with her name. Collect and put them away until ready for Seam B. Do not leave them in the boxes or they will be lost, or soiled with too much handling.

Exercise No. 11 — Seam A — Combination Stitch.

See description of "Seam Sampler" given above. Materials: First section of Seam Sampler.

Fold with the warp through the center, and cut on the fold. Baste these two edges together one-fourth of an inch from the edge. Sew with the Combination Stitch three-eighths of an inch from the edge.

Exercise No. 12 — Emery Balls.*

Materials: Unbleached muslin, 6 l />" x 6}4"i red cashmere 6^2" x 6^2" (this amount provides for four); thread, yellow, white and red; emery powder; needles No. 6 and No. 3; green luster cotton.

To cut the pattern of the strawberry emery ball : Draw a circle three inches in radius, and cut on the line.

Cut a circle from the unbleached muslin for the lining and one a quarter of an inch larger from the cashmere for the outside; cut both into quarters.

To make the case: Fold the two edges of the muslin together and sew in a seam with the combination stitch, rounding the point to give

■ q

____

LS *

IS**

THE COMPLETED SEAM SAMPLER ILLUSTRATING EXERCISES NOS. 11, 13, 15, 17, AND 19.

the strawberry shape. Turn in a good seam at the top and gather. Fill with the powdered emery and fasten the gathering thread by overhanding over the top.

Before sewing up the outside put in the stitches, with yellow thread, to represent the seeds of the strawberry as follows: Hold the wrong side of the cloth toward you and put in a row of tiny stitches half an inch apart. One-fourth of an inch above these put in another row with the stitches midway between those of the last row, and so continue. If desired these may be omitted and the seeds represented by French knots when the strawberry is finished.

Seam up the outside, slip it over the case, arranging the seams on opposite sides to avoid the possibility of powder sifting through. Overhand the top and cover with the green luster cotton to represent the calyx, leaving a loop for the stem.

Exercise No. 13 — Seam B — Stitching.

Materials: Second section of Seam Sampler.

Fold with the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Baste these two edges together one-fourth of an inch from the edge. Stitch three-eighths of an inch from the edge.

Exercise No. 14 — Christmas Piece — A Heart Shaped BAG.f

Materials: Silkoline 14" x 18"; tape, 2 yards.

Turn and baste a one-fourth-inch fold all the way around the cloth. Crease and baste an inch hem at both ends. With right sides together fold the bag with the two hems together to find the exact bottom of the bag and place pins on the seam to mark this. Instead of sewing up the seams as in making a straight bag, pin the bottom of the bag at the seam to the edge of the hem, and fasten very securely. Then overhand the edges of the sides together in the two folds. Put in two lines of running stitches for the two tape casings: run in the two tapes, 1 yard each, bringing them out at opposite sides for the double draw strings.

Exercise No. 15 — Half-Back Stitching.

Materials: First and second sections of the Seam Sampler. Baste the two sections together one-fourth of an inch from theedge. Sew with the half-back stitch three-eighths of an inch from the edge.

Exercise No. 16 — A Doll's Sofa Pillow.

Materials: Cotton poplin 6" x 11*4"; Kerr's twist, B; crewel needle; thread No. 60; needle No. 6.

Work the design in the running stitch with the twist. Turn a quarter-inch all the way around to the wrong side and baste. Fold right sides together the short way through the center and baste. Overhand the edges, leaving a small opening for filling with scraps of cloth cut into bits, finger-nail size, or the cotton of milkweed pods. Overhand the opening.

Exercise No. 17 — French Seam.

Materials: Third section of the Seam Sampler. Fold with the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Follow the directions for the French Seam.

Exercise No. 18 — A Pair of Doll's Pillow Cases. §

Materials: Two pieces bleached muslin 7}4" warp, 8}4" woof; white thread No. 60; needle No. 6.

In a pillow case the w y arp threads should run lengthwise of the pdlow. Crease a quarter-inch fold across one end and on both sides. Fold with the warp through the center so that the seam just turned comes on the inside, baste the folded edges together on the right side. Overhand on the right side, using no knot, but sewing over the end of the thread. Turn a three-quarter inch hem, baste and hem. Trim the seam and overcast.

Exercise No. 19 — French Fell.

Materials: Seam Sampler.

Sew Section Three of the Seam Sampler to the others with the French Fell. Follow directions for the French Fell.

Exercise No. 20 — Textile Fibers and Fabrics — Silk.

Under the heading "Textile Fibers and Fabrics," page 96, will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography, language and history work. The fourth grade subject is silk. Secure if possible the silk cocoon and make a collection of silk fabrics. Language papers on the subject can be illustrated with pictures cut from papers and magazines.

Electives.

A Doll's Rag Rug.* This May Be Used Instead of the Emery Ball.

Materials: Carpet warp, 6 yards; large wooden needle; a loom.

To make the loom: Take a smooth inch board 7"xl2"; draw lines across the board one inch from both ends; draw lines down both sides one-half inch from the edge, connecting the end lines. Drive in brads or wire nails with small heads three-eighths of an inch apart all the way around the oblong formed by the lines.

To weave the rug: Each girl will cut or tear her own carpet rags from discarded garments, etc., brought from home. These must be fresh and clean. Cut into strips from one-half to one inch wide that will thread into the needle. To sew the rags together lap one over the other about an inch, and fold the long way through the center once; back-stitch several times through the four thicknesses, making each strip about two yards long. Wind the warp on the nails as tight as possible; weave the rags over and under the warp threads. Stripes across the ends will add to the childern's interest. Teach warp, woof and selvage.

fA bag ornamented with the cross-stitch may be made instead of the silkoline bag.

§One pillow-case may be omitted and a pillow for the other case made instead. This will be stuffed with crumpled bits of tissue paper.

Chapter IV. Course Of Instruction

Third Year — Fifth Grade, equipment.

Sewing box or envelope case.

Thimble.

Needles.

Scissors.

Thread cards.

Practice Piece — Unbleached muslin 9"xl2".

Order of Exercises.

Prepare Thread Cards — Cardboard 4"x4" designed and cut for four lends of thread.

Exercise No. 21 — Patching Sampler — Hemmed Patch. Exercise No. 22 — A Doll's Kimona.

Exercise No. 23 — Patching Sampler — Overhand Patch.

Exercise No. 24 — Basketry — Christmas Piece.*

Exercise No. 25 — A Garment Brought from Home to be Repaired.

Exercise No. 26 — Mitered Corner. |

Exercise No. 27 — Napkin — Damask Hem.

Exercise No. 28 — A Pair of Sleeve Protectors. f

Exercise No. 29 — A Pin Cushion.

Exercise No. 30 — Textile Fibers and Fabrics — Cotton.

* t t See Electives, page 37.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXERCISES.

Review the divisions of the inch.

Patching Sampler.

Materials: Gingham 8" warp, 13" woof; white thread No. 70; needle No. 7.

It is desirable that each girl cut the two patches and the two pieces to be patched from the same piece of cloth that there may be no difficulty in matching the pattern when patching or when later sewing the two patched pieces together.

Fold the piece of gingham, eight inches by thirteen inches, with the warp into three sections, two of them eight inches warp by five inches woof, and the third eight inches warp by three inches woof. Fold the three-inch piece across the warp in the center for the two patches. Cut on the creases. Pin one patch to one of the large pieces, label with the girl's name and put it away for Exercise No. 23.

Exercise No. 21 — Hemmed Patch.

Materials: First section of Patching Sampler.

The hemmed patch is the strongest and the one most commonly used for repairing garments. The patch will not be noticeable if the pattern is skilfully matched. W hen matching stripes or plaids always tarn on the line where the color changes, never through the middle of a stripe. Ten minutes spent on a paper pattern will prevent the mistakes beginners usually make in this exercise.

Trim the patch and crease a quarter-inch fold on the four sides. In the large piece cut a hole in the center, found by folding, and place the patch over this. Baste around it, matching pattern carefully.

Do not allow pupils to go any farther until the patch is basted on exactly right. Turn to the right side and cut out the part supposed to be worn by the following successive steps:

1. Measure one-half inch (or as near it as the pattern will permit) from the edge of the patch, using pins for marking the line where it is to be cut.

2. Cut out the center, leaving about one-half inch extending over the patch.

3. Clip the corners diagonally the exact width of the fold to be turned in. Take great care and do not cut in too far, as this will spoil the patch.

4. Turn in the edge, baste and hem.

5. Hem the patch on the wrong side.

Exercise No. 22 — A Doll's Kimona.