Daniel Webster in England

Contents

CHAP. PAGE

I. London : May 18 - July 14 3

II. Oxford and Windsor : July 15-20 118

Introduction

Harriette Story (White) Paige was born at Salem, Massachusetts, November 29, 1809, and died at Boston, November 25,1863. Her father, Stephen White, was a merchant of Salem, and her mother, Harriet Story, was the daughter of Dr. Elisha Story, of Boston, and Marblehead, and a sister of Joseph Story, Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States. In 1831, Harriette Story White married James William Paige (1792-1868), a merchant of Boston, and half-brother of Grace Fletcher (1781-1828), the first wife of Daniel Webster, and mother of his children ; their mother, Eebecca Chamberlin, having married, first, the Reverend Elijah Fletcher, and, secondly, the Reverend Christopher Paige.

The James William Paiges and the Websters were on very intimate terms, and Mrs. Paige accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Webster, and Julia on their trip to Europe in 1839. This journey was not made in any official capacity, and Mr. Webster's recep-

[ ix ]

INTRODUCTION tion in England was due solely to his reputation and personality.

In the Life of Benjamin Disraeli, Earl of Beaconsfeld, by William Flavelle Monypenny (vol. n, p. 64), there is the following description of Mr. Webster by Disraeli, written in 1839: " Lyndhurst was also capital. I dined with him yesterday to meet Webster, who is, I believe, considered a very refined and spiritual Yankee, but seemed to me a complete Brother Jonathan — a remarkable twang, as ' tyrannical ' and all that ; he also goes to the levee. A fine brow, lofty, broad, and beetled, deep-set eyes, and swarthy complexion. He is said when warmed to be their greatest orator." In the Life of Daniel Webster, by George Ticknor Curtis (vol. n), will be found impressions of Mr. Webster by Thomas Carlyle, by John Kenyon, who also speaks of " Webster's agreeable family party — his wife and daughter and relative, Mrs. Paige," and also by Henry Hallam.

Mrs. Paige kept a journal of this visit to England, as she writes, "for the benefit of friends at home," and her impressions of what she saw, and of some of the people she met, are recorded in it. This journal is here given in full ; there are a few foot-

[ * 3

INTRODUCTION notes added by Mrs. Paige, in pencil, which are marked H. S. P. to distinguish them from those of the editor.

In the editor's footnotes, the family name is put after the daughter's Christian name, and omitted after the father's Christian name.

E.G.

Milton, Massachusetts, 1917.

JOURNAL OF

HARRIETTE STORY PAIGE

JOURNAL OF HABRIETTE STORY PAIGE

Eon&on

UNDER a clear sky May 18, 1839, embarked at New York for Liverpool, Steamer Liverpool, Captain Fayrer Commander, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Webster, 1 and their Daughter Julia Webster. 2 The wharves and vessels lying near were crowded with a multitude of persons, who amid the still louder peals of the cannon, gave us many parting cheers.

At 3 o'clock, p.m., we left the harbour of New York, and at 5 discharged our Pilot off Sandy Hook. The distance between this and Liverpool, is 3300

1 Daniel Webster's second wife, Caroline, daughter of Jacob Le Roy, of New York ; married, 1829.

2 Julia Webster, 1818-48, daughter of Daniel and Grace (Fletcher) ; married, 1839, Samuel Appleton Appleton.

miles, which the Captain prophecies, we shall accomplish in fourteen and a half days, or at the rate of about 228 miles per day.

Our steamer is 210 feet long, by 33 wide, with engines equal to 468 horse power, and is provided with 675 tons of coal. The number of passengers is 86 ; there are several Englishmen, and also Scotch, Irish, Spanish, German, French, and Italians on board, those from America making the smallest number. The ship's crew includes 62 persons.

On Thursday, May 23, we saw for the first time, (the sea being calm), the " Portuguese man-of-war," or nautilus, and also many porpoises. The former are very curious ; they spread their tiny sails, and glide by so gracefully, that I felt a desire to examine them more minutely. I am told they are smaller on inspection, and are apt to irritate the fingers when handled.

On Saturday, June 1, we experienced the channel weather, fog, and haze; land in sight, but Cape Clear on the Irish Coast, not visible. One of the officers remarked to me, that he has passed this cape seven times, and has seen it but once.

On Sunday, June 2, the Pilot came on board, 40 miles from Liverpool, at 14 minutes after 5 a.m.,

THE VOYAGE being 14 days and 7 hours from the moment of discharging the Pilot off Sandy Hook.

I have suffered in a degree from seasickness, but the motion of the ship, during the whole voyage, was never sufficient to disturb our comfort at table, or a single article upon it. Thus we have proceeded under the powers of steam, seeing little of the terrors of the ocean, or the romance, and sentiment, so generally associated with it. At eleven o'clock of the same day, we arrived at Liverpool, and took lodgings at the Adelphi Hotel.

June 3, Liverpool. This city is celebrated for its shipping, and its docks. They are very extensive, admirably constructed, and of great solidity and strength. They are built of a brown, reddish sandstone, at enormous expense, and capable of holding afloat the largest vessels. They extend along the river Mersey, for three and a half miles, and are well worth a close examination. We have also seen with great pleasure the Cemetery, formerly a quarry in the centre of a little hill, from which was taken the stone for the formation of these docks ; this quarry is upon the highest point of land in the city, and is a long serpentine excavation, and by a most happy conception, it has been turned into a cemetery. A way down to the bottom of it, has been cut in, and partly under, the solid original rock ; down this gentle slope, one can descend to the bottom, which has been artificially levelled, and made even. Here, along winding paths, and in the midst of shrubbery, and flowers, are the graves, and tombs. Other sepulchres are cut in the rocks, on the sides, giving quite an oriental appearance to the whole. Ivy and flowers, creep up the slopes, and along the margin, at the top, is a row of large trees. The whole is tasteful, and beautiful. A grave with the initials of the occupant, in pepper-grass, just peeping above the ground, struck me as a pretty idea, as it must be renewed too, every Spring. Near the centre of the grounds, stands a small temple, containing a statue of the lamented Huskisson, 1 erected to his memory. We dine with Mr. and Mrs. Humfrey, at 6 o'clock to-day, American friends, established here.

June 4. We have driven to Knowsley Prrk to-day, about seven miles from Liverpool, the seat of the Earl of Derby, 2 whose eldest son, and heir, Lord Stanley, 3 was well known to Mr. Webster in

1 William Huskisson, 1770-1830 ; statesman.

2 Edward Smith Stanley, 13th Earl of Derby, 1775-1851.

8 Edward George Geoffrey Smith Stanley, 14th Earl of Derby, 1799-1SG9; statesman.

LIVERPOOL

America, some years since. We were most hospitably received, although the Earl was too ill to see Mr. Webster, and his son was in London. We were invited to luncheon, and shown the Aviary and Menagerie, both of which are very extensive and interesting, and also went over the grounds. I saw, for the first time, the gold and silver pheasants, from China, and many Kangaroos, hopping about in the enclosures surrounded by small iron fences, painted black.* On our return, we visited, in company with two of our fellow passengers (Mr. Gibson a Scotch gentleman, and William Anthony Barclay f of New York), the "Mayor's Hall," which is spacious and beautiful, also the " Tunnel" which commences here. We also saw the " Custom House " and the " Exchange," where the Merchants meet, as with us, daily, from two to three o'clock, to discuss their business matters.

June 5. Left Liverpool to-day, by way of the Birkenhead ferry, across the river Mersey, and proceeded to Chester, a fine old town, full of interest from its very antiquity ; there we saw the old Abbey of St. Werburgh, part of which was built in the

* Called " invisible fences." (H. S. P.)

t Now H.B.M. Consul at N. York. (H. S. P.)

early reign of Ethelred. Seven miles from Chester is " Eaton Hall," the seat of the Marquis of Westminster, 1 one of the richest noblemen in England. This castle is very extensive, and a very beautiful specimen of the florid Gothic architecture. The " coup d'ceil " on entering the hall, is very imposing, adorned with figures in armour, and old pictures. The interior apartments are very magnificent, the furniture of brocade and gold, and the walls fluted in velvet with gold fringes, and rich cornices, far surpassing in splendor anything we have yet, ever seen, but we are told, we shall yet see many things beyond this. The view of the grounds, through the windows, down the terrace is beautiful beyond description ; every spot in the highest cultivation, presenting to us altogether, a scene, realising only, that of the poet, or the painter. We were amply repaid for our exertions, in driving to this place through the heat of the mid-day sun, and can talk of nothing, but this splendid specimen, of the " Stately homes of England."

The following day, Thursday, June 6, we drove as far as Hartford, and there joining the Liverpool

1 Robert Grosvenor, 2d Earl Grosvenor and 1st Marquis of Westminster, 1767-1845 ; great picture-collector and horse-racer.

ARRIVAL IN LONDON railway, found ourselves at 8 o'clock, at the Euston station, and soon after, at the hospitable mansion of Mr. Jaudon 1 in Park Crescent, in the far-famed city of London. Our lodgings in Hanover Square at the Brunswick Hotel, had been secured, but will not be at our service, until Saturday morning; we are therefore the guests of our kind friends, Mr. and Mrs. Jaudon, until then.

Friday, June 7. We dined to-day at 6 o'clock with Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Wiggin, who have just established themselves, in a new, and richly furnished house in Park Crescent ; there we met several American friends including, Mr. 2 and Mrs. Bates, 3 Mr. and Mrs. Cryder, Mr. and Mrs. Timothy Wiggin, 4 and their son, Mr. Holme Wiggin, Mr. and Mrs. Jaudon, and some others unknown to me. A very splendid and agreeable dinner. We have also visited the Coliseum, to see the Panorama of London there exhibiting, and had our first actual view of

1 Samuel Jaudon ; Banker in London, formerly cashier of the Bank of the United States.

2 Joshua Bates, 1788-1864 ; financier. Born at Weymouth, Massachusetts. Member of Baring Brothers. He contributed $100,000 to the Public Library in Boston.

3 Lucretia Augusta Sturgis, daughter of William ; married Joshua Bates, died 1863.

* Timothy Wiggin, 1773-1856 ; banker.

and wrote her an autograph. Mr. Babbage, whose eye is penetrating, and whole expression energetic, invited us after breakfast, at 12 o'clock, to visit his " self calculating machine," and to his house we proceeded from Mr. Kenyon's. This piece of machinery I cannot attempt to describe, although Mr. Babbage, who is the inventor, made it quite plain to Mr. Webster's more scientific capacity. It was however, even to me, very curious, and wonderful, and the machine itself, seemed to possess all but, the power of speaking. With Mr. Babbage we lunched, and saw afterward an automaton lady, also of his own manufacture, or invention, which moved, its arms, and head, and eyes, like other automata.

At 7 o'clock we dined with Mr. and Mrs. Jaudon, and afterwards went to a Soiree at Miss Rogers', where we had the good fortune of meeting Tom Moore, 1 Lockhart, 2 son-in-law of Scott, Hallam, 3 author of "Middle Ages," Lady Davy, 4 widow of the celebrated Sir Humphry Davy, 5 and Lady Chantrey,

1 Thomas Moore, 1779-1S52; poet.

2 John Gibson Lockhart, 1794-1854 ; biographer of Scott. 8 Henry Hallam, 1777-1859 ; historian.

4 Lady Jane Davy, 1780-1855, n£e Kerr; a prominent figure in the society of both Rome and London.

5 Sir Humphry Davy, 1778-1829 ; natural philosopher.

MEETING DICKENS wife of Sir Francis Chan trey, 1 the sculptor. Likewise, we were introduced to Miss Coutts, 2 daughter of Sir Francis Burdett, 3 and heiress of the immense wealth of her Aunt, the late Duchess of St. Albans. 4

June 10. 5 Mr. Webster has been to the houses of Parliament to-day, with Mr. Stevenson, 6 although he made a previous visit, incognito, three days ago. Mrs. Webster and Julia have been driving in Hyde Park with Miss Sarah Wallace, and her lap-dog. This lady is a relative of the Ogden family, in New York, and is unmarried, and has purchased a life annuity, upon which she lives in London, in good style, with a handsome income.

June 11. Mr. Webster dined to-day, with Mr. Kenyon to meet " Boz," 7 the author of the " Pickwick Papers." Having expressed to Kenyon, a desire

1 Sir Francis Legatt Chantrey, 1781-1842 ; sculptor.

2 Angela Georgina Burdett-Coutts, 1814-1906, daughter of Sir Francis Burdett.

8 Sir Francis Burdett, 1770-1844; politician; married Sophia Coutts.

4 Harriet Mellon, 1777-1837; actress; daughter of Matthew, and relict of Thomas Coutts, of London, banker; married, 1827, William Aubrey de Vere Beauclerk, 9th Duke of St. Albans.

6 Andrew Stevenson, 1784-1857 ; statesman ; American Minister to England, 1836-41.

T Charles Dickens, 1812-70 ; novelist.

to see this author whose books had given us so much pleasure, he expressly asked him to dinner, as Mrs. Webster, Julia and myself were to follow in the evening. " Boz " greatly resembles the prints of him seen in America. He wears an abundance of hair, and appeared to be a very silent personage, keeping in a corner, and shunning observation, but withal, I fancy he is a great observer. I looked at him with interest and compassion, having given full credence to the pathetic tale of his sorrows, at the loss of his wife and children. As a relief from these bereavements, I have been told, he had turned to authorship ; Kenyon laughed most heartily at our wasted sympathy, assuring us, that Dickens was yet a Husband and a Father, and that the story industriously circulated, had no origin in truth.

Wednesday, June 12. This day was appointed for visiting the " Tower," which from historical association, and reminiscences of childhood, had for me a peculiar interest. This ancient fortress is on the North bank of the Thames, at the S. E. extremity of the city. It is said to have been built by William the Conqueror in the year 1078. The "Horse Armoury" first attracted our attention; an apartment 150 feet in length, 33 in width, and containing 22

THE TOWER OF LONDON

Equestrian figures, many of them the former Kings of England, from Edward 1, 1272, to James II, 1685 ; these were in suits of armour as worn when alive, and were a most interesting and imposing relic of the olden time. Here before us, was Henry VIII, Dudley, Earl of Leicester, Devereux, Earl of Essex, and Henry, Prince of Wales. What a crowd of associations it brought to the mind ! Behind the horsemen, were curious arms of various kinds, bearing different dates, and specimens of Ordnance up to the time of Henry VI. We saw with interest a low room, or vault, in the " White Tower," where Sir Walter Raleigh is said to have written his " History of the World," during his imprisonment. Several inscriptions are still visible on the walls, and some are attributed to him. In the "Sea Armoury" were muskets for sea service, warlike trophies, and ancient implements of every description. In the upper storey of the " Grand Storehouse," which is a striking edifice north of the " White Tower," 345 feet loner and 60 in breadth, is the " Small Armoury " containing arms for about 200,000 men, kept clean and bright, and arranged in various tasteful, and fanciful forms. Through a " douceur " to the Warder, whose theatrical costume, (such as we have seen only on the stage, as belonging to the time of Henry Vll), we were admitted to the " Beauchamp Tower," now used as a barrack room; here was imprisoned the good, but unfortunate Lady Jane Grey and the ill-fated Anne Boleyn. An inscription on the wall, near the window, gives the number of weeks, hours, and days, of this last named Queen's imprisonment, and is supposed to have been thus scraped with a nail, or pair of scissors, the morning of her execution. The spot where this occurred in the court yard below, was pointed out, it being distinguished from the others, by stones, of another colour. Of course, we visited the "Jewel Office," a dark, gloomy apartment, in another building, and heard a list of its precious contents enumerated by a woman, grown so old in this service, that her tones were nearly unintelligible. Here are kept the " Regalia, or Crown jewels," the " golden sceptre," and " state salt-cellar," and the "golden spoon," and other emblems of royalty, used at the Coronations. Mrs. Gray's ridiculous account of this same old woman, was brought to my mind, and I can bear witness, that her amusing description, was no exaggeration.

We dined afterwards with a large party at Mrs. Jaudon's, and there met Mr. and Mrs. Cowell, who

A DISAGREEABLE SCOTCHMAN

have recently returned from America. Mr. and Mrs. Hanky, M.P., Mr. and Mrs. Guthrie, he also, a M.P. but an ignorant, and disagreeable Scotchman, who shewed his bad taste by depreciating everything American, even to our natural scenery. At last, provoked at this ungentle treatment, and contrary to the restrictions, I have imposed on myself, to avoid all comparisons, I told him in reply to his question, about the relative beauty of the oak trees of England and America, that we could show more varieties of the oak alone, than his country contained among all her forest trees. This fact he seemed to doubt, but an appeal on my part to Mrs. Cowell, convinced, and surprised my antagonist, and he afterward remained silent on the subject. Christopher Hughes, 1 Esquire, our charge to Sweden, was one of the guests, and Mr. and Mrs. Bates met us in the drawing-room above, at coffee. The dinner was altogether agreeable, notwithstanding my own propinquity to the honorable Mr. Guthrie, M.P. .

June 13. We went to-day, in company with Mr.

Kenyon, (who is devoted in his kind attentions), to

the justly celebrated " British Museum," in Great

Russell Street, Bloomsbury. Mr. Webster did not

1 Christopher Hughes, 17S6-1849 ; diplomat.

accompany us, preferring to make the visit more quietly at some future time. We were first taken to the apartment of Mr. Panizzi, 1 the intelligent Italian, and librarian ; here was assembled a group of persons, who had come there, as Mr. Kenyon whispered, to get a sight of the " Great Western," the soubriquet they have given Mr. Webster. These persons expressed so much regret, and such a keen disappointment, that Mrs. Webster was induced to send the carriage back to Hanover Square, with a message to Mr. W r ebster, by the Footman, desiring him, if possible, to return with it, as there were many things at the Museum, she particularly wished to point out to him herself. In consequence of this, Mr. Webster shortly appeared, but he was in no small degree annoyed when he learnt the object of the summons ; however, the " deed was done," and I was amused, as well as touched, at the enthusiasm, and interest, the sight of Mr. Webster produced. I overheard Kenyon's question, to a young artist, who had been following Mr. Webster with admiring eyes : " Well — how do you like our head ? " " Glorious, magnificent, one of Nature's noblest works. How I

1 Sir Anthony Panizzi, 1797-1879 ; principal librarian of the British Museum.

DANIEL WEBSTER From a portrait by Chester Harding

THE BRITISH MUSEUM should like to paint that head ! " This was accompanied with so much enthusiasm of manner, the clasping of hands, and rolling of the eyes, that I was reminded of somewhat similar scenes, in our own dear land. Books of great rarity, and value were shown ; the first Bible ever printed ; the only signature extant of Shakspeare's handwriting, without the letter e in the first syllable as I have here spelt it. Illuminated manuscripts of the greatest beauty and antiquity ; in short, it is quite impossible to describe all the literary wonders so obligingly produced on all sides, for our gratification. The library presented by George IV, collected by George III at Buckingham Palace, is contained in a very spacious, and splendid apartment, and the books themselves are almost invaluable. Doctor Burney's 1 library is also here, purchased by the Government for £13,- 500 ; it contains nearly 14,000 volumes, and the collection of Greek authors is said to be very valuable. There is also a rare series of newspapers from 1603 to the present time amounting to 7000 volumes. The famous " Elgin marbles " are here, they are interesting specimens of ancient art, and are highly prized as models. The " Portland " or " Bar- 1 Charles Burney, D.D., 1757-1817 ; classical scholar. [ 19 ]

berini Vase," we ascended a long and high staircase to see, and it entirely rewarded our efforts ; it is very beautiful, but smaller than I had imagined; the material is of the deepest sapphire glass, on which are executed in relief, like a cameo, graceful opaque white figures. The exact explanation of these figures has never, I believe, been satisfactorily explained, although there have been many attempts. Mr. Kenyon at his own house in Harley Place, possesses a fine imitation in Wedgewood, the dying bequest of a friend. The body of his vase wants the transparency of the beautiful original. This vase, (they give it the French pronunciation here), for more than two centuries adorned the Barberini Palace in Kome, and was purchased by the Duchess of Portland of Sir William Hamilton, * It is said, that the Duchess, for a long time, concealed the purchase, fearing the ridicule, and censure of her friends, at the enormous price paid for this precious relic. It was found about the middle of the 16th century, a few miles from Kome, enclosed in a marble sarcophagus, within a sepulchral chamber, and was probably a cinerary urn, belonging to the sepulchre.

1 Sir William Hamilton, 1730-1803 ; diplomatist and archaeologist ; husband of Emma Hamilton.

THE ITALIAN OPERA

In other apartments, we saw mummies, in all their different stages, and numerous interesting articles from Herculaneum, and Pompeii. An enormous wig, of coarse, curly hair, corresponding precisely to the drawings of the females, on the vases. In short, there was an endless variety of curiosities, in stuffed animals, of the vegetable world, and of fossils, medals, minerals, sculpture and statuary, sufficient to occupy whole months in their examination.

Dined afterward with Mr. and Mrs. Bates in Portman Square, with no other company but their Daughter Madame Van de Weyer, 1 and her Husband, 2 the Belgian Minister, whom she has recently married. After dinner we went for the first time to the Italian Opera, two boxes having been made into one, for the accommodation of our party of eight. It was Persiani's benefit, and a crowded house and the music ! I cannot describe its magical effect upon me. Beside Persiani 3 here was Grisi, 4 Tamburini, 5 Garcia, 6 and Mario. 7

1 Elizabeth Bates, daughter of Joshua.

2 Sylvain Van de Weyer, Belgian Minister in London.

3 Mme. Fanni Persiani, 1812-67; Italian singer.

4 Giulia Grisi, 1812-69 ; Italian opera singer.

5 Antonio Tamburini, 1800-76 ; Italian singer.

3 Michelle Ferdinande Pauline Garcia, 1821-1910; Spanish singer ; married, 1840, M. Viardot.

7 Giuseppe Mario, Marquis di Candia, 1810-83 ; Italian singer.

Rubini 1 was ill, and Lablache 2 the great basso, did not perform. Mario is the son of the Governor of Nice, but has left his home in displeasure, and assumes the " nom de guerre " of Mario ; he is rather attractive in personal appearance, and has a delightful voice, but the critics say, it still requires practice and cultivation. After the Opera, we had the ballet of " La Gitana," and I saw for the first time the celebrated Taglioni. 3 This danseuse seems to merit all the extraordinary praise that has been bestowed on her, no praise of her grace, can be exaggeration. It was indeed " the very poetry of motion." She is not handsome, yet far from appearing otherwise, and is slightly enclined to " en bon point." June 14. The anniversary of my wedding day, eight years ago. Breakfasted with an agreeable party at Mr. and Mrs. Senior's, 4 Hyde Park Gate. He is a scholar, and lawyer of eminence, and she is a West Indian. I sat, at table, between Mr. Bingham Baring, 5 a charming person, son of Lord Ashbur-

1 Giovanni Battista Rubini, 1795-1854; Italian singer.

2 Luigi Lablache, 1794-1858 ; Italian actor and singer. 8 Marie Sophie Taglioni, 1804-84 ; Swedish danseuse.

* Nassau William Senior, 1790-1864 ; economist ; Master in Chancery, 1836-55.

6 William Bingham Baring, 2d Baron Ashburton, 1799-1864;

ANOTHER BREAKFAST-PARTY

ton, 1 and Mr. William Clay.* 2 The former a conservative, and the latter a thorough radical, and I was much amused by the good natured quarrelling of these two neighbours, on the subject of local politics. Mr. Baring kindly expressed great regret, that " there was nobody in London ; Devonshire House closed, the Duke abroad, the Duchess of Sutherland also absent, Lady Jersey, and some others, out of town, and he feared we should lose all opportunity, of seeing anything of London Society." The Earl of Shelburne, 3 son of the Marquis of Lansdowne, and Lord Lovelace, 4 who married Ada Byron, 5 were among the guests.

At dinner at home, Mr. and Mrs. Webster kindly drank my Husband's 6 health, in a bottle of champagne, more precious here, than in America.

* Now Sir William Clay. (H. S. P.)

statesman ; Member of Parliament, 1826-48. His mother was Anne Louisa Bingham, of Philadelphia.

1 Alexander Baring, 1st Baron Ashburton, 1774-1848 ; financier and statesman.

2 Sir William Clay, 1791-1869 ; politician ; merchant in London ; Member of Parliament for Tower Hamlets, 1832-57.

3 Henry Petty-Fitzmaurice, Earl of Shelburne, later 4th Marquis of Lansdowne, 1816-66 ; Member of Parliament for Calne, 1837-56.

4 William King-Noel, 1st Earl of Lovelace, 1805-93.

5 The Honorable Augusta Ada Byron, daughter of George Gordon, 6th Baron Byron, the poet ; married, 1835, William King- Noel, 1st Earl Lovelace.

6 James William Paige, 1792-1868 ; merchant.

Saturday, June 15. By previous invitation, and arrangement, we drove to Chiswick, to visit the Horticultural exhibition, in company with, Mr. and Mrs. Bates, Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson, and Mr. and Mrs. George Archibald. The sea of equipages outside the grounds, was astounding to my unpractised eye, and within, were vast numbers of gaily dressed people, (many ladies wearing embroidered muslins over a coloured silk), making an attractive scene to a novice, like myself. The exhibition of flowers, was very beautiful, particularly the heaths ; they were of uncommon size and beauty. The Jlavor of the pineapples growing within, was very powerful, and agreeable, but an approach to the tables, for seeing the pines, we found, in consequence of the crowd, entirely impracticable. There we accidentally met Mrs. Derby, who left America before ourselves, in a Packet Ship, and had with her husband, but recently arrived in London. On leaving Chiswick, the crowd of carriages extended as far as the eye could reach, awaiting their fair occupants, and yet on reaching " Hyde Park," and there driving for an hour, the crowd of equipages, seemed in no way diminished, and the whole world of fashion seemed congregated there. This may afford a slight illustration of the vast pop-

THE QUEEN'S INVITATION

ulation, of this "vaster" city, which fills me, the longer I remain, with bewildered astonishment, and admiration. We had engaged ourselves this evening, to a party at Mr. Babbage's, where we were told we should meet " some of the cleverest people in England " ; but we have just received through the Lord Chamberlain, an invitation, or rather a "command," to attend the Queen's 1 ball on Monday night, and we must pay a visit of consultation to our dress maker, and forego the pleasure of Mr. Babbage's Soiree. Our card of invitation is about one fourth the size of a large sheet of letter paper, and is thus expressed :

The Lord Chamberlain is

commanded by The Queen to invite

Mrs. Paige

to a Ball on Monday the

17th June at 10 o'Clock

Buckingham Palace. Full Dress.

Sunday morning, June 16. Through the kindness of Mr. Charles Augustus Murray, 2 attached to the Queen's household, we were to have gone to the

1 Alexandria Victoria, 1819-1901 ; daughter of Edward, Duke of Kent ; ascended the throne, 1837, as Queen Victoria.

2 Sir Charles Augustus Murray, 1806-95 ; diplomatist and author ; Master of the Household, 1S38-44.

Chapel royal to-day. To our great regret and disappointment, after the services of all the other churches had commenced, came a note from Mr. Murray to Mr. Webster, saying that " owing to the departure of her cousin Victoria, one of the Princesses of Coburg, the Queen would not attend Chapel to-day, and presuming we would prefer to go, when the Queen was present, he had postponed sending the tickets of admission," and so we lost the opportunity of going to church at all. At two o'clock we drove to the Zoological Gardens, in company with Captain Stockton, an American friend, stopping to lunch on our way with Mr. Kenyon in Harley Place. There we found Captain Jones, a friend of Kenyon's, and Mr. Ogilvie awaiting our coming. This latter is one of the Directors of the Zoological Gardens, and " desired the privilege of escorting Mr. Webster's family there." These gardens are, as their name indicates, a menagerie of animals, and are situated in the N.E. side of Regent's Park ; they are very extensive, the grounds are very prettily laid out, and on Sundays, the only day the " canaille " is excluded, form a very fashionable promenade. About 9 years ago, the animals from the Tower, were presented to this Society by King William IV ; they are kept in " pad-