Travels in south-eastern Asia: embracing Hindustan, Malaya, Siam and China; with notices of numerous missionary stations, and a full account of the Burman empire

Front matter

f^d\* 'j-'^he Library of Congress ^ .

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A

Preface

The only aim of the foUoTfnng pages is utility. Had a place been sought among admired travellers, I should have given more descriptions, incidents, and delineations of private character ; and fewer facts, opinions, and reflections ; vrhich would at once have saved labor, and rendered me less vulnerable.

Honest intentions, diligent inquiries, and fortunate opportunities, will not secure a traveller from errox's, even in Europe or America, where, in every place, we meet persons of veracity, and free to impart information. In the East, the case is much worse. The foreigner, dreaded for his power, and abhorred for his religion, excites both civil and religious jealousy. His manners often displease, by the omission of forms of which he may be ignoi'ant, or to which he cannot succumb. He is met with taciturnity, or wilful misrepresentation ; and if he escape these, he will generally encounter ignorance. If he be so happy as to find both intelligence and communicativeness, the want of books, maps, charts, and statistics, renders the information of natives merely local, and often conflicting. Added to all, his interpreter may be unskilful. If he depends upon resident foreigners, their arrival may have been recent, or their opportunities small, or their inquiries negligent, or the statements of one may be flatly contradicted by those of another. All these embax'rassments have met me by turns, so that frequently, after laborious and continued inquiries, I have been compelled to lay aside the whole mass of notes, in the utter inability to decide whom to believe. I preferred silence, and apparent deficiency, to questionable stiitements.

My advantages have, nevertheless, been great. I was sent out,

4 PREFACE.

as the deputy and representative of one of the great American Missionary Societies, to examine into, and with the missionaries adjust, many points not easily settled by correspondence ; to compare the various modes of operation in different missions ; to survey the field ; to compare the claims of proposed new stations ; to comfort, encourage, and strengthen the missionaries in their arduous work ; and to gather details on every point where the Board lacked information. Such a mission gave me confidence, in the eyes of all classes, ■wherever I went ; and toleration in making investigations, which might otherwise have been deemed impertinent. The time spent at each place, was sufficient for deliberate inquiries, from various - sources. In most places, I found missionaries and civilians, who had lived long on the spot, and who gave me the fruits of mature and extended observations. My interpreters were in general not only thoroughly conversant with the language, but in the habit of familiar intercourse with the people, and possessing their confidence. Before leaving a place, I generally submitted my notes to several persons for a careful revision. If, therefore, I should be convicted of errors, they are such as the best informed persons on the spot have fallen into, and as my reader would have imbibed, had he been in my place. Some errors may be charged to me, through mistake of the objector ; for often, when I read my notes in various places, gentlemen dissented from some statements with great confidence, the correctness of which they admitted on further examination ; which examination they would not have made, had I not quoted some influential name as my informer.

It is, of course, out of the question to quote authorities in a work not drawn from books. To have filled the margin with names would have been to violate propriety, while it could not add to the reader's confidence to quote persons wholly unknown to him. In every pai't of the work I have studiously sought brevity, lest, by diminishing its circulation, my great object should be defeated.

The map is wholly original ; drawn from the topographical reports of British officers, nautical charts, surveys, and narratives of recent travellers. A very great amount of labor has been bestowed upon it, and innumerable differences will be found between it and those which preceded it. At the office of the surveyor-general in Calcutta, I was furnished with great facilities as to the parts under British government, through the personal kindness of Hon. T. B. Macaulay.

The engravings ai'e, in no instance, copied from other books. With three exceptions, (the views of Maulmain, Tavoy and Mergui,) they are from my own sketch-book. They constitute an entirely new contribution to our stock of oriental illustrations. The view of Sagaing was taken from the door of Mr. Kincaid's house, and shows a section of his family boat, partly hid under the bank. The small size of Burman houses, and the fashion of filling their cities with stately fruit-trees, make them all appear to be far less populous than they really are.

It would be a grateful task to acknowledge the kindnesses which were multiplied upon me in every place. But such matters belong to the sacred recollections of private history. To publish them all, would require constant repetitions, in which the reader could take no interest ; and to name a part, would be doing injustice to the rest. Suffice it to say, that I was every where most affectionately received, for my work's sake. Never had a man kinder homes when far from his own, not only among missionaries, but with private, civil, and military gentlemen.

May He who blessed the enterprise, and bore me safely through, bless the publication 1

Boston, February, 1839.

PKEFACE

TO THE NINTH AMERICAN EDITION.

The rapid sale of eight editions of this work, and its republication, in separate editions, both in London and Edinburg, amounting in all to over 20,000 copies, is of coui'se highly gratifying to the author, not only as a seal of approbation on his labor but as a proof of "wide-spread interest in the Missionary cause.

The book has been reviewed favorably in the leading magazines of America, England, and the East Indies, as well as in hundreds of newspapers, and noticed in many letters from missionaries, but no statement in it has ever been contradicted or corrected. When it is considered that very little is said of the mere incidents of travel, the truth of which, of course, no one could dispute, but that the book is crowded with facts, dates, prices, scenes, descriptions, and statistics ; commercial, political, scientific, and religious, this is certainly remarkable. I attribute it to my having written every thing on the spot, and always submitting the manuscript to competent critics in each place. As Oriental countries are vei-y little subject to change, a book thus attested will remain for a century as valuable as at first.

In the present edition, whatever the lapse of fourteen years had rendered superfluous, has been omitted. The work is thus divested of what possessed only a transient interest, and placed among permanent histories.

H. M.

University at Lewisbubg, Pa., March, 1853,

Chapter I

Departure — Employm ents — Illness — Comet — Company — Preach on Deck — Squall — Magellan Clouds — Send Letters — Trade Winds — Another Illness — Tristan d'Acunha — Portuguese Men-of-War — Ship Tigris for Ceylon — Encounter between a Whale and a Thresher — "Doubling Cape of Good Hope" — Day of Fasting and Prayer — Enormous Shark — Nicobar Islands — First Sight of Idolaters — ' Kedgeree — Heavy Dews — Andaman Islands — Preparis and Narcondam — Conversion of Sailors 13

CHAPTER 11.

Arrival at Amherst — First Sabbath at Maulmain — Coasting Voyage — Moungmagoung — Curiosity of the People — Walk over the Mountain — Tavoy — Mata — Karens; their Piety, Liberality, Temperance, Gratitude; Letters from Young Converts; Churches — Mergui — Storm — Disagreeable Insects — Variety of Costumes — Karen Juggler 35

CHAPTER IIL

Return to Maulmain — Missionary Conference — Preaching — Balu Island — Karen Churches near Maulmain — Water Festival — Chinese Ceremony — The Mohurrum — River Excursion — Remarkable Caves — Karen Christian Village — Church-Meeting and Baptism — Population of Maulmain — Commerce — State of Boodhism — State of the Mission — English Influence 61

CHAPTER IV.

Population of Rangoo"n ; Commerce ; Prices of Living — Shoodagon

Pagoda — Slaves of the Pagoda — Sunrise Worship — Rainy Monsoon — Mission — Voyage to Pegu — Evidences of former Greatness — Shoomadoo Pagoda — Voyage up the Irrawaddy — Boats — Mode of Fishing — Prome — Leper ViHage — Gaudama's Foot — Burman Energy — Earth-Oil Wells — Shy an Caravan — Ruins of Paghan — Attempt to buy Beef — Buffalo Herdmen — Cui'iosity of Natives — Toddy — Arrival at Ava 67

CHAPTER V.

Ava — Splendid Kyoungs — Pagodas — Priests — Palace — Population — Arts — Prices — The Mekara Prince — Meawade Woongyee — The Bui-raan Pontiff — Surrawa Prince — Climate of Ava — History of the Mission in Ava — Roman Catholics — Sagaing — Marble Quarries — Mengoon Pagoda — Coral Strands — Taking leave of Burmah. . 87

Part II. Digested Notes On The Burman Empire

CHAPTER I.

The Term India — Hither and Farther India — Boundaries of Burmah — History of the Empire — War -with the British — Dismemberment of the Tennasserim Provinces — State of the Succession. . . 109

CHAPTER 11.

Features of Country — Climate — Mountains — Minerals — Rivers — Soil — Productions .... 119

Chapter III

Population — Form and Features — Buildings — Food — Dress — Manners and Customs — Character — Condition of Women — Marriage — Polygamy — Divorce — Diseases — Medical Practice — Midwifery — Funerals — Amusements — Musical Instruments — Manufactures. 130

Chapter IV

Government — Orders of Nobility — Grades of Community — Magistracy — Laws — Division of Property 161

Chapter VI

Extent of Boodhism — Meaning of the Tei'm — Antiquity of the System — History of Gaudama — The next Boodh — The Bedagat — Theory of the Universe— The Four Islands — This Island, or the Earth — Origin and Fall of Man — Celestial Regions — Hells — No eternal God — Universe eternal— Moral Code — Merit — Discourse of Gaudama — Religious Edifices — Images — Impressions of Gaudama's Foot — Worship — Offerings — Public Days — Superstitions — Nat- Woi'ship — Priests : their Dress, Residences, Morals, Office, Support, Numbers, Orders, Funerals — Priestesses — Sects — Toleration — Remarks 180

Chapter I

Voyage to Calcutta — Saugor Island — Hoogly Elver — Landing — Houses — Servants — Streets — Weddings — Doorga Pooja — General Assembly's School — Benevolent Institution — Orphan Refuge — ■ Central School — The Martiniere — Leper Hospital — Operations of Education Committee — Colleges — Progress of the English Language — Use of Roman Alphabet — Native Periodicals — Hindu and Mahometan Edifices — Ram Mohun Roy — Bromha Sobha — Population of Calcutta — Expenses of Living — Habits of Extravagance — Morals — Religion — Clergy — Places of Worship — Missionary Operations — Christian Villages — Hinduism shaken — Serampore ; Aspect ; Population ; Marshman ; College ; Grave- Yard — Operations of the Mission 215

CHAPTER IL

Madras — Catamarans — Difficulty of Landing — Black Town — Esplanade — Population — Illustrations of Scripture — State of Religion — Catholics — Teloogoos — Travelling by Palankeen — Pondicherry — Cuddalore — Trauquebar — Combaconum — Tanjore — Kohlhoff —

10 CONTENTS.

Swartz — Tricbinopolj' — Heber — Seringham — Slavery in Hindustan — Idolatry suppoi-ted by Government — Brahmins and Brahminism — Progressive Poverty of the Country 251

Chapter III

Voyage to Singapore — Coasters — Prices of Passage in India — Straits of Malacca — Harbor and Town of Singapore — Climate — Productions — Commerce — Islaraism — Population — Moral Character of Population — Orang Louts — Chinese Wedding — Missionary Operations — Malacca — History of the Settlement — Extent — Population — Progress of Christianity — Anglo-Chinese College — Common Schools — Malay Peninsula — Origin of Malay Race — Divisions. 281

Chapter IV

Take Leave of British India — European Manners — Voyage to Bankob — River Meinam — Paknam — Audience with the Governor — Situation of Bankok — Floating Houses — General Appearance — Visit to the Pra Klang ; Servile Forms of Politeness — Chow Fah ; Singular Custom — Pra Nai Wai— Present of an Elephant; Of a Cochin- Chinese Slave — Police of Bankok — Climate — Wats — Houses — Streets — Bridges — Somona Codom — History of Siara — Extent of the Empire — Population — Personal Appearance of Siamese — Dress — Amusements — Military Force — Commerce — Prices of Provision — Fruits — Cui-rency — Character — Degree of Civilization — Slavery — Language — Establishment of the Mission — Mission Premises — Constitution of the First Church in Siam 303

Chapter V

Voyage to Canton — China Sea — Mouth of Pearl River — Outside Pilots — Lintin — Bocca-tigris — Whampoa — Innumerable Boats — Evidences of dense Population — Dollar-Boat — River Scenery — Population of Canton — Foreign Factories or Hongs — Walks in the Suburbs — Streets — Shops — Vacant Spaces — Placards — Perambulatory Trades — Booksellers — Circulating Libraries — Map of the World — Beggars — Small-footed Women — Trades — Labor-saving Machinery — Chinese Piety — Tombs — Visit to a Hong Merchant — Restrictions on Foreigners — Temples — Priests and Nuns — Pagodas — Chinese Sects — Introduction of Boodhism — Jos— State of Morals in the Foreign Society — The Magnitude and Horrors of the Opium Trade 328

CHAPTER VL

Embark for Home — Straits of Gaspar and Sunda — Petty Monsoon — Cape of Good Hope — Remarkable Phenomenon — St. Helena — False Alarm— Slave Trade— Landing at Newport — Summary — Reflections 3-18

Chapter I

On the Measure of Success which has attended Modern Missions. — Introduction. — I. The Number of Missionaries. — II. The Kind of Labor performed: Preparatoiy; Collateral; Additional; Erroneous. — III. Disadvantages of Modern Missionaries : Imper feet Knowledge of the Language ; Poverty of the Languages themselves ; Want of Familiarity with the Religion and People ; Degraded State of the Natives ; Inability to live as they live ; Being Foreigners; The Structure of Society; The prevailing Philosophy ; The Presence of nominal Christians ; Popery. — IV. Efforts which do not reach the Field. — V. The Amount accomplished : A large Force in the Field ; Impediments removed ; Translations made ; Languages reduced to Writing ; General Literature imparted ; Tracts written ; Grammars, Dictionaries, and other Helps prepared; Immense Distribution of Bibles and Tracts; Mechanical Facilities created ; Schools established, and Youth already educated ; Blessings of Christian Morality diff"used ; Idolatry in some Places shaken ; Effects on Europeans abroad ; Actual Conversions. — VI. Effects on the Churches at Home — Remarks. 35G

Chapter II

On the Mode of Conducting Modern Missions. — Schools — Translations and Tracts — Preaching in English — Periodicals — Use of the Roman Alphabet — Missionary Physicians — Unnecessary Display and Expense — Direct Preaching to Natives — Formation of Regular Churches — Qualifications of Native Assistants — ^Instruction in the English Language — Intermission of Operations — Division of Labor — Concentration — Choice of Fields — Remarks. 388

Opinions of Rev. A. Judson and Rev. F. Wayland 428

Index 429

ILLUSTRATIONS.

View of Tavoy, on steel. Frontispiece.

Map of South-Eastern Asia 13

The Grave of Mrs. Judson 36

View of Mergui, on steel 46

Boardman's Tomb 50

View of Maulmain, on steel 61

Maulmain Printing OfiBce 65

Mr. Judson's House 66

Ascending the Irrawaddy 75

Burman Ox Cart 86

Ground Plot of Ava 87

Burman Gentleman's Carriage 90

View of Sagaing, on steel 101

Burman King's Boat 102

Warder, or Balu 108

New Pagoda at Ava 118

Junction of the Kyendween 125

Jack-Tree and Fruit 127

Mango 128

The Plantain Tree 129

Stand for Eating 134

Burman Shoe 135

Burman Lady 135

Spittoon 138

Burman Gentleman and Followers 139

Beating the Gong 155

Drums 155

Burman Lamp 156

Assaying Silver 157

Cleaning Cotton 158

Irrigating a Rice Field 179

Gaadama 183

Page

Burman Zayat 193

Statue of a Lion 194

Streamer 195

Gaudama's Foot 196

Priest Walking out 201

Priest Preaching 203

Burning Ponghee 209

A Bheestie 222

Hindu Woman 223

Wedding Procession 223

Bengal Washerman 224

Mode of Churning 250

Hindu Gentleman's Carriage 253

Palankeen Travelling 259

A Pecotta 262

Seringham Gateway 269

A Brahmin 278

Nutmeg 287

Bankok Floating House 307

Siam Lady sitting 310

Site of Bankok 312

Siam Woman and Child 317

Baptist Mission Premises at Bankok, in Siam 325

Chinese Junk 327

Chinese Boat 331

Chinese Tomb 339

Chinese Temple 341

Chinese Pagoda 343

The Chinese Boodh 345

Chinese Shoe 347

Specimens of Oriental Languages, on steel 356

Part I. Travels In Burmah, Ciiittagong, And Arracan

CIIArXER L

Departure — Employments — Illness — Comet — Coin pany — Preach on Deck

— Squall — Magellan Clouds — Send Letters — Trade- Winds — Another Illness — Tristan d'Acunha — Poruig-uese Men-of'-VVar — Ship Tigris for Ceylon — Encounter between a Wliale and a Thrasher — " Doubling Cape of Good Hope" — Day of Fasting — Enormous Shark — Nicobar Islands

— First Sigiit of Idolaters — Kedgeree — Heavy Dews — Andaman Islands

— Preparis and Narcondam.

How cordial and comprehensive are the sympathies of true reHgion ! Who that saw the Louvre, with her eleven ordained ministers, about to spread her canvass, could fail to contrast the scene with ordinary shipping operations ? Over all the wharf is one dense mass of grave and silent spectators, while tlie decks and rigging of the adjacent ships are filled with younger, but not less intent observers. No sound interrupts the ascending prayer. The full harmony of a thousand voices wafts to Heaven the touching hymn. Coimtless hands, tlu'ust toward the narrow passway, seek the last token of recognition. Even the aged, unaccustomed to tears, weep, not from bitterness, but in exuberance of love.

But here are none of the customary inducements to convene a crowd. A ship sailing with passengers is no novelty. One of the number was, indeed, the pastor of a large and most affectionate congregation ; but with the others, in general, the multittide had no acquaintance. Personal attachments, tlieretbre, had not assembled the people. There was, in fact, nothing in the scene, which could call forth a general interest, but its religious character. The regular packet, crowded with passengers, leaves

IS.

14 VOVAGE Ol'T.

our shores, wliile only here and there a group of personal friends look on with interest. The merchantman unfurls his sails, but his destuiation and objects ai'e not regarded. But the missionary! he awalvens tlie sympathy of every believer. Stranger though he be, all press to grasp his hand, and, when gone, all intercede for him with God. Even denominational preferences are forgotten, and eveiy sect mingles in the throng, exultuig hi a conunon joy.

But all this is a mere fraction of the fruits of Christian charity. The same expansive benevolence embraces the unseen, unluiown heathen. Intense interest lor those sends forth these self-denying ones, and draws from Christians at home the requisite funds. The ivoiid is the field over which the eye of the Christian wanders, and for all of which he will labor and praj', while he has being. O blessed gospel, which thus makes man the friend of man, and excites in the heart all that is pure, joyous, and benevolent !

Never did a ship leave Boston harbor more nobly. A fine Avind, and favoring tide, bore us on so rapidly as scarcely to leave us time to gaze one lingering farewell to the faint outlines of the great and beautiful city. In two hours the pilot left us, bearing brief notes of affectionate remembrance to friends behind. Soon we found ourselves in the midst of scores of beautiful schooners, engaged in mackerel fishing. So thickly did they lie along the horizon, as to resemble streets of stately white houses. Even these, at length, sunk into the dim distance, and we dashed on till niglit closed in, and the breeze hushed itself to rest.

Wednesday, Sept. 23, 1835. Light winds and a smooth sea gave us a night of quiet repose ; but as the sun rose cloudless out of the sea, the wind freshened on our quarter, ai;d amid an array of studding-sails we made fine progi-ess. Most of the passengers, alas! Icel no relish for the noble sight of ocean, and the rapid plunging of our gallant ship. Sea-sickness, that most disj)iriting of all maladies, oi)presses them. Mr. Sutton and myself, however, being iiuired to the unnatural motion, are so far exempt as to be able to act the part of nurses. Between attending the sick, and making last the baggage, I found ample employment for the day.

My heart fills with tender and grateful emotions, as I arrange the various gifts of friendship and regard which almost fill my state-room. Nothing that ex])erience could dictate, or imaghiation suggest, as requisite for my comfort, seems wanting. My sweet but oppressive emotions find relief only in pouring out before

EMPLOYMENTS MEDITATIO.NS. 15

Gj(1 fervent thanks, and imploring liiui to remeniljer liisproniir>e, that a cup of cold water given to a disciple, because he is u disciple, shall not lose its reward.

24. The wuid has continued favorable, and we are already advanced on our way nearly 500 miles. The skylight in my state-room proves sufficient. The round-house, (so called,) on deck, is an invaluable comfort, and will be esi)eciaily so in rainy weather In the evening, such as were well enough commenced family worship in the cabin.

Sunday, 27. Still fine and favoring breezes. The awning being extended, and seats arranged, br. Sutton preaclied this morning an appropriate and interesting discoui'se. Most of the passengers able to attend. As many were singers, I led the psalmody with nij^ flute, and we raised hosannas, not unacceptable, we trust, even to the ear of God. Four of the crew attended. Our entire company then resolved themselves into a Bible-class, to meet every Lord's-day afternoon at half past three, and requested me to take charge of it. We selected the Acts of the Apostles, as most appropriate to missionary work. Till the an-ival of the appointed hour, on eveiy side were seen the brethren and sisters, busy with Doddiidge, Henry, Scott, Barnes, Adam Clarke, &c. &c. Each recitation will embrace a chapter, and occupy from one to two hours.

Satm-day, Oct 10. Amid the numerous discomforts of a long sea voyage, one is thrown upon his own resources, both for im- ]irovement and pleasure. But the mmd accustomed to view with intelligent and devout contemplation the works of God, can seldom be without materials for lofty and purifying thought. And surely the wide ocean and wider sky present a rich field for the expatiation of our noblest thoughts. Pacing the deck, or leaning against the bulwarks, toward setting sun, it would seem as though the most gross and thoughtless mind must rise, and ex})aud, and feel delight. Far and near rolls " old Ocean." Before Jehovah spread out the fairer sceneiy of the dry land, these restless billows swelled and sparkled beneath the new-made funianient. Thousands of years then- wide expanse remained a trackless waste,

" Unconquerable, unreposed, untired, And rolled the wild, profound, eternal bass, In nature's anthem."

Tiie storm then found no daring mariner to brave its fury, and the gentle breeze no repose on the fair canvass of the lordly sliip. Age after age, the fowls of heaven and the tenants oi' the deep lield imdisinited empire. J3ut now, every ocean is added to tlie (loiiiiiiiou of man. He captures its rulers, he makes its surges liis highway, and so dexterously adjusts his spreading canvass, as to proceed, in the very face of its winds, to his desued haven. IJut, O I how many have found in these same billows a grave ! How many a gallant ship has "sunk like lead in the mighty waters," wiiere beauty and vigor, wealth and venerableness, learning and piety, find undistinguished graves ! To these lone deserts of i)ure waters man pursues his brother with murderous intent — the silence is broken by thundering cannon — the billows bear away the stain of gore, and all that storm ever swallowed up have been outnumbered by the victims of a battle. O war! when will thy horrid banner be forever furled !

Reflection, following the chasing waves, passes on to the shores they lave, and there looks over nations, and beholds men in their manners, customs, follies, and crimes, their loves and hates, their joys and sorrows, their enthusiastic pursuit ol" wealth, and amazing disregard of Heaven. How interminable and salutary are the tlioughts thou inspirest. Ocean ! whether we regard thy age, thy beauties, thy wrath, thy silence, thy treasures, thy senices^ to man, thy praise to God, or the scenes which have been acted on thy surface !

But while we thus muse and speculate, tlie glories of sunset fade into sober gray, the billows take a deeper tuige, stars multiply, and soon we stand beneath a firmament glowing with ten thousand fii-es. Here ai-e vaster, sublimer fields for thought.

" Hail, Source of Being ! Universal Soul Of heaven and earth ! Essential Presence, liail ! To Thee I bend the knee ; to Thee my thoughts Continual climb ; who, with a master hand. Hast the great whole into perfection touched."

How ennobling and purifying is the study of astronomy ! How delicious the Christian's hope of soon roaming among these works of infinite wisdom and power, ever learning, adoring, rejoicing, improving; ever becoming more full of God, and of glory, and of joy !

1 ought to mention that on the 28th Sept. we had a meeting to agree upon some general measures for the profitable employment of our time. It was unanimously agreed that, in addition to our daily family worship, prayer-meetings should be held every Sunday and Wednesday evenuigs ; that the brethren officiate al])habetically at public worship on deck, and in asking a blessing

ILLNESS AFRICA. 17

flui'iiig one day at table ; that the monthly conceit ol' j)ra} er be held at the same hour as tiie otlier evenhig meetings; that I should deliver on Thursday evenings a coiu-se of lectures ou missions, missionary measures, and missionaiy fields ; and that br. Sutton should deliver occasional lectures ou modern mythology and the state of the heathen.

12. Head winds, the past three or four daj's, have kept us pitching shai-ply, and put all our invalids again on the sick list. To-day, we have a fah" wind, which has already smootlied the sea, and our friends are better. We are withui twelve or tlihleen degrees of the Cape Verds, but expect to go much nearer, though not probably m sight.

Smiday, Oct. 18. Crossed the troi)ic of Cancer. Not being able to command voice enough to preach on deck, I attemjjted it tliis evenhig, by general request, in the cabin. Other bretluen performed all tlie devotional exercises, but my tluoat sutFerefl considerably. — It is remarkable that we have not yet met the north-east ti-ade-wind, which prevails generally as high as SS"^. iiut He who sent us will give us such speed as pleases Hun.

23. Have been confined to my bed %vith an attack on the bowels, which on Monday laid a severe hold upon me. Am now about, but able to eat nothhig but a Uttle oatmeal gruel. The tender care and sympathy of my brethren, and still more of the sisters, is veiy sweet. What a blessed home would this world be, if Christian love pei^vaded eveiy bosom I It is exceedingly gi-atifymg that harmony and kind feelmg prevail among all om- passengers, though so different in temper, age, and previous pursuits ; and comprising, as we do, fom* distmct denominations.

Sailing, for the last two days, along the coast of Africa, it is impossible to avoid frequent thoughts of that devoted land. How deep the darkness which covers it ! How few the points where Clu-istianity kindles her fire ! How wi-etched, even in temporal things, its thronging millions, and how utterly secluded from the improvements of the age ! Yet the word of the Lord once resounded along these shores, and triimiphed over the vast interior. African philosophers, ministers, and generals, came not behind the greatest of then' time. Why, and how, the dreadful cluuige ? " Verily, there is a God, that ruleth m the earth ! "

Yesterday we caught the fij^st faint zephyrs of the noi'tli-east trade-wind, and to-day it has increased to its regulai- velocity ; that is, we go at six or seven miles an hour. We are all glad, and I trust thankful.

Saturdav, 24. Have been deeplv interested to-night in observ- 1* ing tlie comet, which cloudy nights have hitherto kept invisible. Here we are, cahuly gazing at tlie identical thing, which, hy its amazing brilliance, spread such universal panic in 145G. Ail Europe seemed to believe that the day of" judgment was at hand. The pope (Calixtus III.) partook of tiie alarm. Orderijig all church bells to be rung eveiy day at noon, (a practice which has smce widely prevailed,) he required all good Christians to say the "Ave Maiia" thrice a day, with this addition, ^ Save us from the Turk, ike Devil, and the Comet." He went further, and had tlie comet, in regular form, excommunicated every day ! But the patient luminal^ filled the coffers of its ghostly anathematizers. Licalculable treasiues were ])oured into the hands of j)ricsts, from the guilty and the affrighted ; and the vilified comet " holding on the even tenor of his way," passed out of sight. It has a})peared every seventy-five years since that time, (though with (hminished brightness ;) and Science, the handmaid of Religion, has now made it an object of calm calculation and ennobled piety.