Proper care of the hair and scalp

Foreword

It is the usual custom to have a foreword or a preface to every book- We have not yet been able to determine whether it is an explanation or an excuse. Be this as it may, to us it simply acts as a warning to read the volume with care and endeavor to become well acquainted with its contents. The present book needs neither apology nor explanation.

Those who acquire it will become readily convinced of this by intelligent reading, and if this perusal arouses interest and leads to a desire for more information on the subject, the purpose of the book's publication will have been attained.

The Author.

Contents

Page

Foreword 3

Table of Contents 5

Introduction 11

Chapter I. The Anatomy of the Hair and Scalp 13

Complex nature of the skin. The Scalp is the hairy skin. The "bed" or dead hairs. Hair magnified. Different kinds of hair seen under the microscope. Microscopic view of hair. The root sheath of the hair.

Chapter II. The Hair and Its Growth 16

Proper handling of the skin. Glands of the skin. Functions of the hair. Length of the hair. Sutherland sisters. Hair a woman's glory. Papilla necessary to insure hair's life. Over-combing and overbrushing a positive disadvantage. The growth of hair is steady when not interfered with. Muscles with hair make it stand on end.

Chapter III. The Color of the Hair 19

Blonde and black ordinary division. Blondes vary from nearly white to rich blonde. Peroxide blondes. Brown hair of various shades. Black hair also varies in shade. Red hair and Titian red. Grey hair. White hair. Changes in hue not due to dyes. Green, blue and purple hair. Effects of light or its absence on color of hair. Ringed hair.

Chapter IV. The Functions of the Hair 23

The first function is protection of the skin. Protects from violence from without. Protects against temperature changes in the air. Pigment in hair, — small amount in blondes, more in brown hair, and a large amount in black. Hair protects by guiding

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Page sweat. Sudden blanching of the hair. The case of Marie Antoinette. Wheat speculators' white hair. Premature greyness a family trait in some.

Chapter V. The Care of the Hair 27

The comb and brush. Brush and comb at least once daily. Care necessary to choose a comb, also a brush. Essential qualities in these toilet articles. The varieties of combs. Combs, how made and forms given. Tortoise shell, ivory, celluloid, horn, brass, gold, iron combs. Hard rubber combs popular. Hair combs for women and for men. The fine-toothed comb. The baby comb. The moustache comb. The beard comb. Antiquity of the comb. Ornamental combs. Iron combs. Metal or bone and horn combs. Sixteenth century era of ornamental combs. The high comb, front comb, side comb and barrette. What is necessary for a good brush. Ornamental backs. Moustache brush. Eye-brow brush. Military brush.

Chapter VI. Head-Gear 39

Men's hats subject to changes. Felt, hard or soft, summer straw. Fur Caps, civilian and military. Police caps. Fireman's caps and hats. Hat band presses on scalp and produces baldness. Many sorts of caps. Steel cap of the soldiers in trenches. Night cap. Chapeau of officers uncomfortable; only used on state occasions. Women's head-gear continually changing, usually straw and in winter made of felt. Savages wear no hats or caps; and their hair is splendid.

Chapter VII. Shampooing 43

Shampooing requires particular care. "Soft" water essential. Soap must be bland. Alkaline soap to be avoided. Lotions are not acceptable. Must not be too vigorous. Head of hair after shampoo should feel good. Care must be taken in drying hair, and electric fan avoided, as it makes hair brittle. Dry with hot towel. Medicated soaps are not dependable. Perfumed soaps to be avoided. Dandruff not a dis-

Page Six

Pa 8 e ease; it is a condition requiring general and local

treatment. Massage of the scalp.

Chapter VIII. Cutting the Hair 50

Cutting the hair is a modern custom. Only civilized men have their hair cut. Savages and barbarians do not. In ancient times short hair indicated slaves. Now it is convicts and prize-fighters who affect it. Long hair does not indicate strength. Styles in hair cutting are always changing. Singeing the hair has no advantage.

Chapter IX. Hair Dressing 54

A simple matter with men. An elaborate one with women. Hair dressing of men in China, in Japan, and in Africa. Among white men; among the Franks; among North American Indians; South Africa, women of Babylonia, Egypt, Greece, Rome, Gael. . Next are the Middle Ages. Hair-dressing of Rothrude. Mary and Martha. Mary Magdalen. Hair-dressing under feudal law. Joan of Arc. Anne of Austria, Madame de Sevigne, Madame de Maintenon, Madame de Pompadour. Hair-dressing of Swedes, Italians, Spaniards, Chinese, Japanese and South Africans. Korean hair-dressing. Hair-dressing of a Dahomeyan woman.

Chapter X. Hair Restorers 69

Solutions to prevent hair falling out. Also to stimulate growth of hair. Formulas for hair restorers. Manner of using these preparations.

Chapter XI. Superfluous Hairs 71

Superfluous hairs or hairiness. Esau first hairy man mentioned in Bible. Hairiness is no sign of strength. Hairiness, pilosi of Pliny. Naomi Sutherland. Hairy men quite common. This hairiness also occurs in girls and women. Low-necked gowns will not make hair grow on chest of women. Bearded women. Women with moustaches. Women with

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Page hair on face common. White hair growing from white of eye in man and in calf. Hairs in ears and nostrils; also growing out of moles in old women. So-called wild man.

Chapter XII. The Beard 77

The Deity with a beard. Assyrian Kings bearded. Sardana ladies. Abraham. Moses. Mahomet, Christ. Mussulmen all bearded. Crusaders' moustaches and goatees. Greatest Generals of Antiquity smooth-faced. Hannibal bearded. Priests of Roman Catholic Church. Married and shaved; in the Greek Chuch have beards. Cardinal Richelieu had moustache and goatee. Jupiter. Neptune. Apollo. Henry IV., had his own cut. William I., of Germany had full beard. Bismarck only moustache. Barbarossa. William II. Joffre moustache. Napoleon III. Van Dyke beard. Well kept beard. Tramp's beard.

Chapter XIII. The Care of the Beard 89

Wash and dry between hot towels. Must not render hair brittle. Manner of marcellizing the whiskers. It gives an uninviting appearance. The same remedies are to be applied that are used on scalp. Curling of moustache requires particular care and attention; not so much in vogue now as formerly.

Chapter XIV. Wigs 91

False hair in general. Curls, frizzes and switches. Not matched in all cases. False chignon. False frizzes, black with white hair. White wigs in Courts of Europe. Wigs among Greek and Roman actors. Actresses appeared in bare faces under Louis XIV. Now in English Courts wigs and periwigs still prevail. Women with Plica Polonica wear wigs to hide the disease. Men wear wigs to look better or for protection. Toupee is of no use.

Chapter XV. Hair Dyes 96

More a habit than a necessity. Coloring hair blue, purple and green is ultra and dying out Men begin

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Page by dyeing moustache black, then hair. This is kept up and finally insanity is caused by dye. Women hide red, grey or white hair with brown or black dye and they also become insane, driven to it by using the dye.

Chapter XVI. Removal of Superfluous Hairs 99

Practiced for many centuries. American Indian plucks and keeps on doing so. Orientals have depilatories but they are not thorough. Girls who have growth on upper lip most solicitous to have them removed. Depilatories most employed. All lack being radical. Method most radical is removal by electrolysis. Description given. Hair is also removed by X-rays. In the former new growth of hair, in latter, thin scar forms.

Chapter XVII. Splitting and Breaking of the Hair. 103

Much care and patience required in these conditions. Some general condition which is cause must be treated by a skilled physician. Hairs split in two, three or more branches. In breaking of hair, it is brittle and must be returned to its normal condition. A mild shampoo, massage and very little oiling will do.

Chapter XVIII. Knotting of the Hair 1 06

Annoying condition. It is seen in hair of women and moustaches of men. The lumps cannot be made to shed. Cut them off and treat nervous special condition which is cause.

Chapter XIX. Oiliness of the Hair 108

Common enough. Caused by fatty material in food. Large doses of oil go through tissues. Skin gets oily and so does hair. Treat hair and regulate diet so as to avoid taking fats, oils or carbohydrates.

Chapter XX. Dryness of the Hair Ill

Occurs in men and women especially in those of lymphatic temperament. Hair breaks in small pieces

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Page more often in blondes. Following this is loss of hair. Depends upon a general atonic condition. Must have tonic treatment and food that furnishes fat to scalp and hairs.

Chapter XXI. Shaving 114

Very old custom but no pictures or documents to show it. Greek and Roman soldiers shaved. Pericles, Alexander the Great, Caesar. Then came barbers who shaved at first and then became surgeons. Orthodox Jew never shaves, uses scissors. Modern Jew does. Safety razor makes shaving easy.

Chapter XXII. The Barber Shop 116

Most simple in China, Japan, Russia, Turkey and in Orient. In this country are , comfortable. Barber talks much and says nothing. Shop should be aseptic, razors sharp and all tools shiny. All must be very clean. If not clean will give barbers' itch.

Chapter XXIII. Baldness 118

Dead hairs. Hairs easily separate. Problems presented to physicians. Treatment. Diet. Local applications. Good tonics. Baldness due to disturbances of general health; also due to local skin diseases. General baldness. Partial baldness. Spotted baldness. Prevention of baldness.

Chapter XXIV. Greyness 1 26

Greyness. Runs in families. The hair is plenty but color is not. Best leave it as it is.

Chapter XXV. Practical Prescriptions 127

Baldness. Barber's Itch. Dandruff. Falling of the Hair. For an Irritated Scalp. A Nice Application for use after Shaving. Insect Bites and Injuries. Itching of the Scaly. Animal Parasites. Perspiration (excessive). Perspiration (odorous). To Make Dry Hair Acquire a Lustre. Medicated Soaps.

Hair and Scalp Don'ts ] 35

Page Ten

Introduction

The object of this book is to give the care of the hair and scalp in a manner that may be easily understood by every one. The subjects are treated from the standpoint of what every one of intelligence and common sense should know on these subjects and may be learned from a careful perusal of these pages. The object is not to make every man his own physician, but to give enough information to indicate those cases in which the services of a physician are required, and yet enough simple measures are advised to make it unnecessary to be continually calling for the doctor.

The dominating idea has been to combine the utile cum dulce, or the useful with the pleasant. Not too much has been attempted but enough to give some small pleasure in reading and referring to its pages.

It has usually been considered the proper thing to begin a work of the nature of the present one by a consideration of several basic facts which act as introductory to the subject. In the present instance these will consist in a description of the anatomy of the hair and of the skin as well as their physiology. Thus, we find that the skin is the natural protective envelope of the organs and tissues lying directly beneath it. It wards off any sudden jar or other mechanical disturbing element and, in that manner, adds to the symmetry and contour of the body.

With these preliminary ideas it is a very easy matter to read on the subjects which are taken up in this book and it is also much more satisfactory to understand the terms which are used.

It is an idea with the laity that a book which is written by a physician deals with diseases and their treatment. The medical profession is certainly sufficient for the latter purpose and physicians are not restricted to the writing of books that are only medical.

Page Eleven

As evidence of this we need only look upon those which treat of eugenics, hygiene, physical development and a hundred other subjects of the greatest interest to the laity.

The present book is neither a manual nor a text book; it is simply a guide on the proper care of the hair and scalp. The intention has been to make it sufficiently clear and comprehensive to infuse an interest in the subject in the minds of those who aspire to health and cleanliness as prerequisite of a healthy and contented mind and body.

All has been stated in a more or less terse manner and as succinctly as consistent with a clear presentation of the subject. It would be rather supererogatory to enter into a long discussion of the necessity of such a book, because there is and it is, moreover, selfevident. To introduce this extended essay requires not long series of more or less desultory remarks, but rather a plunging into medicas res.

Page Twelve

Chapter I. The Anatomy Of The Hair And Of The Scalp

In this book it is conditions and not diseases that are considered. A glance at the annexed illustration (Fig. 1 ) will show the complex nature of the skin and will also impress upon us the absolute necessity of taking care of such a complicated organism, and the seeming difficulty that is often discouraging to him who tries to give proper care without being initiated into the methods which it is necessary to observe.

The most tender part of the integument is the corium or true skin and it is absolutely essential to see that it is always properly protected from extraneous irritation and such other circumstances as interfere with the proper performance of its functions.

The scalp is the hairy skin, which is attached to the skull. It is that portion of the skin from which all the hair arise and, on that account, it is rather thick in some portions. Thus, on the top of the head it is a good quarter inch in thickness and this is easily demonstrated in cases of accident when it is cut by a blunt or a sharp instrument. If a cross section of the scalp is compared with one of the skin the difference between the two is at once apparent.

The common integument is thinner and does not show the same amount of hair or as large ones. By turning to Figs. 1 and 2, these differences are easily seen. The various layers of the skin may be seen and the glands connected with the hair shaft are also apparent. No attempt has been made to make this an anatomical lesson but rather to give an exact and common-sense view, such as will prove of use, and not permit errors to creep in.

Page Thirteen

A fair amount of attention will be found beneficial. In Fig. 3 we have a picture of a cross section of the scalp wherein we are shown the bed hairs or what are usually called dead hairs. They have no papillae and consequently no nutrient arteries.. These hairs easily drop out and we then have what is ordinarily called falling of the hair. When we remember that the cause lies deep at the roots there is no wonder that it is such a persistent condition. It is for this and similar reasons that a few moments devoted to the anatomy will be found of benefit and render the reading of the following pages more intelligible.

The reading matter below each figure will be sufficiently explanatory not to require further comments or remarks.

The hair from the eye-brows and eye-lashes when examined under the microscope, appear comparatively coarse and are rich in pigment. Their root bulbs are large and have well developed papillae. The hair of the head is finer in texture and its pigment occurs in amount 'according to the color of the hair. The papilla is well developed and its blood vessels are also large enough' to furnish the necessary nutrition. The lanugo hair is very fine, appears colorless and usually lacks a papilla.

The hair is an appendage of the skin that is but little understood and it would seem that those who know the least about lit, its functions and its diseases, are the ones who are the most ready to display their ignorance. We find these charlatans everywhere and they talk in a very glib manner, although, to one who knows, they easily betray the fact that they are not conversant with matters connected with the hair. In other words, they are ignorant pretenders who do more harm than good.

In Fig. 3 there is shown the section of a hair magnified and the names of the various portions are indicated in such a manner that when they are alluded Page Fourteen

Vertical Section of the Str. — Epidermis.

S. — Blood Vessels.

P. —Papilla.

Skin.

Fig. 2.

Vertical Section of the Scalp, Showing Hair.

Fig. 3.

Vertical Section of the Scalp.

T. — Sebaceous Gland.

H.— Hair.

S. — Sweat Gland.

to, it may be easily understood by the reader. This occurs in embryonic life at about the third month when the first buds of the coming hair are observed. At about the end of this month of development there occurs a dipping in of the epidermis which projects down and is soon covered by a layer of cells which is transformed into the external membrane of the coming hair. The extremity separates slightly to give place to the papilla which makes its appearance, and the process ends in a fully formed hair.

The root sheath of the hair consists of a membrane in which the hair seems to be implanted. It is of some importance, as it forms a protecting membrane to the hair shaft and prevents its injury from external causes. It also protects by forming a medium for the capillary attraction of pus and thus prevent it from attacking the shaft of the hair.

With these preliminary ideas it is a very easy matter to read on the subjects which are taken up in this book and it is also much more satisfactory to understand the terms which are considered.

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Chapter II. The Hair And Its Growth

The hair requires careful daily attention. The ancients were fully aware of this fact and gave particular attention to it. Physical exercise by toning up the muscles makes them more symmetrical and in that manner contributes to the enhancing of the beauty of the figure and its symmetry. These are qualities which are very much admired and it is the proper handling of the skin or integument that leads to such satisfactory results. In order to have a good skin such as is useful in its functions and handsome to behold requires some care, etc., which will be dwelt upon later.

The various organs which are enclosed in the skin also require particular care, they being the sweat glands and the fat glands, small bodies which give the integument suppleness, softness and make much for its good appearance and feeling. The proper care of the skin as a whole brings about a good condition of these organs and renders them efficacious in their functions. Furthermore, a neglect of this care will permit the integument to become rough, scurfy and exhibit the signs of neglect. It is for this reason that athletes present such a good appearance and that their skins are of an excellent texture and possess such a good appearance.

The skin, as a whole, is not in the best condition unless care be given to its appendages and we will now begin to make a few remarks upon one of the principal appendages of the skin — the hair.

Hairs are a most useful as well as necessary appendage of the skin, for they have numerous and well defined functions to fill. These appendages are

Page Sixteen primarily protective and this very protection is what conserves the integument and adds greatly to the health of the individual. First of all we must understand what a hair is. It is simply a more or less cylindrical outgrowth of the scarf skin or thin cuticle and assumes a more or less long and cylindrical shape. Those on the head or scalp are characterized chiefly by length and are usually fine. It is in women that the predominance of length is observed. In them the length is as much as six or seven feet in a woman not higher than five feet one inch. The writer has seen hair grow to the length of eight feet in a little woman of five. My readers may perhaps remember the Sutherland sisters, five in number, who had remarkably long hair and were not sisters at all. They exhibited at the dime museums and acted as an advertisement for a hair tonic which they assured me they had never used. However, the growth of hair was much admired by women, especially those not blessed with any too much hirsute adornment. For, we know that hair is a woman's glory and much pride is manifested in a large growth.

As shown in Fig. 3 a hair consists essentially of a shaft and a papilla. The latter is absolutely necessary to insure the growth and life of the hair and its destruction prevents the growth of the shaft and terminates its existence. The sebaceous follicles or fat glands are attached to the hair and serve to lubricate the follicle or sheath in which the shaft is found. This fat gland has much to do with diseases of the scalp and fills an important function in the preservation and well-being of the hair. Many diseases of the scalp take their origin in the hair and it is for this reason that the latter should be given the greatest care and attention, and not merely a perfunctory parting as is but too often the case. Tousled hair may look artistic but does not have a neat appearance. On the other hand, over-combing and brushing to excess

Page Seventeen do not act so advantageously as the fond possessor of the hair desires. When we come to this part of the subject we will be more explicit in our remarks and endeavor to tell our readers the proper method to follow in order to cultivate a fine suite of hair.

Hair stands on end in great fright, terror, cold or excitement. The modus operandi is the contraction of an involuntary muscle which arises from the papilla of the hair and is inserted into the epidermis. When the nervous impulse is transmitted to this microscopic muscle it contracts and by this means changes the angle of implantation of the hair and makes it stand on end. This condition is marked in cats, dogs, boars and other animals as an indication of bad humor. These muscles are known as the arrextores pilorum.

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Chapter III. The Color Of The Hair

It may not be out of place now to speak of the color of hair. A fact not entirely uninteresting in connection with the hair is this quality. A very ordinary division of this is blonde and black, but this is too radical and we must discriminate more closely and consider all the varieties. Blonde varies from the very light shades which are nearly white, and then through various gradations we come to the ash blonde. Among the handsome tints observed are the tawny and the golden blonde. We will not take into consideration the light yellow blonde color produced with the aid of peroxide of hydrogen; those resorting to this factitious method are known as "peroxide blondes." The method is one that is easily detected, as short crops of dark hair betray the use of the bleach. Another condition also betrays the use of the chemical — this is the falling out of the hair about the temples and other parts of the scalp, easily pointing to the methods to which the artificial blonde has had recourse.

It is a curious fact that these artificial blondes may have very dark or even black eyebrows which they regard as aids to brighten the blonde hair by contrast. Brown hair has many shades, varying from a light color to a chestnut of a dark tint and verging closely upon a black. This last is merely a comparative color which also varies in intensity to the very intense or what is popularly known as blue-black. It is chiefly in the tropics that such a marked color of the hair is observed. This intense black color is also met in some races not situated in the tropics such as the Spaniards. The gradations are sufficiently

Page Nineteen marked to enable us to easily recognize a Spaniard or Portuguese from a Hindu or Aztec by the hair color.

A color that is striking and observed in all climates and zones and which is positively detested by some and admired by others is red. And yet, some very distinguished historical personages were red-headed. We may mention Queen Elizabeth of England, Mary Stuart, Queen of the Scots, Queen Victoria, Judas Iscariot, and other more or less notorious characters. Now, we must distinguish between red hair. We have examples of light red hair, pale in color and weak in texture. Then again, we see the sort called carrotty, which is a rather comic hue. This is not so picturesque as the flame-colored hair so very much admired by many.

. We finally come to that which the celebrated painter immortalized and which is now known as Titian red, a dark red hair which in sunlight looks like burnished bronze. It is a beautiful shade that is seen but in comparatively few individuals. It has made artists and writers rave about it; and the comparative rarity of examples makes each one more remarkable.

We often hear and speak of gray hair as an index of age, but as a matter of fact gray hair does not occur in human beings. What is usually denominated gray is a mixture of white and black. In some animals like the cat there occurs hair that is actually gray in color. The so-called iron gray hair seen in humans is a mixture of white and black and the gradations in color from white to black may be observed in the same individual. On the other hand, we see in some heads a growth of dark or black hair with one tuft of perfectly white hair. This may be congenital or acquired. There are some families in which one of the forebears has this tuft of white hair and the descendants present the same peculiarity. This is commonly alluded to as hereditary, or as a birth-mark.

Page Twenty

As a matter of fact, it is a nervous peculiarity that is a common trait of the family that manifests itself in this manner. But this is entering into the domain of medicine. The location of these locks of white hair is quite interesting. Thus, we find the tuft in the fore part of the head, at other times at the back of the head, and occasionally it is a streak of white hair running from right to left varying in width from one-quarter to one inch, or it may be one running from the front to the back of the scalp. There is really no end to the number of varieties which occur in this distribution. A peculiarity in connection with these growths of white hair is their persistence without appreciable change, either in shape or in color. But one caution should be observed, not to mistake them for vitiligo, which is a disease, and indulge in many discouraging remarks over a condition that cannot be helped except in a cosmetic way.

Some changes in the hue of the hair not due to dyes are often noticed. Thus, a reddish blonde is changed to a yellow by the use of borax washes and this will make it still more yellow if it be continued some length of time. A light shade of hair may be changed to a black, brown, or red color by using solutions of resorcin of different strength. The internal use of pilocarpine will also cause hair to grow dark.

A condition which occurs but seldom and excites the wonder and curiosity of its beholders is green hair. It is of a striking vivid tint and is never relished by the one who shows it. This condition of green hair is never seen except in workers in brass and the color derives its origin from the filings and fine particles separated in turning brass. A good and thorough cleansing of the scalp is sufficient to cause a disappearance of this accidental dyeing. This reminds me that it has recently been the fad to dye the hair blue, purple and green.

Page Twenty-One

Another shade is an undefined black color in which a marked matting is visible and commonly seen in those who are filthy in their habits, unkempt and generally untidy. Such individuals are happily not numerous and whilst they form good company for each other they are avoided by all those who respect washed faces, combed hair, and neat clothing, as well as clean habits and manners.

A bright natural light will darken the hair. It is noticeable that those who live in tropical or subtropical climates are very dark haired, whereas those who live in glacial zones are inclined to be blondes. Another observation has been made that those who pass their lives underground will have white hair as has been so often observed in the salt mines of Siberia, in which a ray of light never enters.

Ringed hair is an extremely rare condition in human beings, although normal in cats, raccoons, rats and other animals who use their incisor teeth. The hair so affected presents alternate narrow ring-like colors in which the hair appears white in some and of the natural shade of the hair in other rings. The cause of the white color is due to air or some other gas being in the hair-shaft.

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Chapter IV. The Functions Of The Hair

After having said so much in connection with hair it may not be inappropriate to make mention of the function of this appendage of the skin. One of these functions which is easily apparent is that of protection of the skin. It is not alone a protection from violence from without but also from other irritating conditions, and a due consideration of these phenomena as well as the conditions presented by the hair will render these functions clearer and more easily understood. The latter conditions which are more or less irritating are those due to temperature changes in the air. Thus, we find that a certain element connected with the hair is more or less powerful as a heat regulator. In the central portion of the hair known as the medulla or core are situated a number of cells, known as pigment cells, which carry the coloring matter of this organ and give it that color which we have already considered. As a necessary corollary we find that this pigment exists in small quantity in blonde hair, so much so that, in very marked blondes, it practically amounts to nothing. The integument about these hairs is quite devoid of color although it is what is called white or light pinkish and is very delicate and easily affected by every variation in temperature. It is this very fact that renders blondes so susceptible to these changes and naturally leads to the contraction of catarrhal diseases of the upper air passages and renders individuals with such hair more susceptible to the contraction of these diseases and confers upon them the name of "delicate." As a matter of fact it is a very important matter and plays a very important role in the matter of the care and of the hy-