The voyages of the 'Morning'

I. A^i

ERALD S. DOORLY

Glass GStTO .

Book /^^Z m

Frontispiece

THE ' MORNING ' IN McMURDO SOUND

CAPTAIN GERALD S^ DOORLY, R.N.R.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP

LONDON

[411 rightt reservtd.]

TO MY CHUM

I

J c

Introduction

When Sir Clements Markham's life was cut short by the unhappy accident of Sunday, January 30, 1916, he was on the point of writing an introduction to the present book. The proofs had reached this office on the Saturday afternoon, and were to have been sent him on the Monday.

No one else could so appropriately have written a word of introduction. Sir Clements had a friendly hand for every Polar explorer, and his friendship, once given, was true and lasting. It was through him that ' The Voyages of the Morning ' sees the light to-day, just as it was through him that the good ship herself was sent to relieve the Discovery. To him, as the friend and guide of the expedition and all concerned in it, the MS. was sent last summer, and on July 19, 1915, he wrote to Mr. Reginald Smith : —

' I have just received a narrative of the two voyages of the Morning ; from New Zealand, vii

INTRODUCTION

The author was one of the junior officers — Gerald Doorly. He now commands a steamer out there, but he was a boy when he was in the Morning. The narrative is pleasantly written — first impressions of a keen observer. He was on board the Discovery and tells how Scott was constantly looking after the sick — bringing them tit-bits, &c. The whole story is well told. It occurred to me that it might form a sort of supplement to Turley's admirable book ' \i.e. ' The Voyages of Captain Scott,' by Charles Turley].

In this sense, at least, he felt that the book would not be belated, ' just as a boy's book and an uncommonly good one — capital book for a prize,' though, owing to the pressure of a busy life, it appears long after the events it records. The boy is the eternal lover of adventure, and in this guise, moreover, lives on in many a grown-up. Assuredly there will be many to welcome such a record as this, for the story of the Morning has never been told, and it is worthy of being told to complete the tale of Antarctic adventure and the cycle of Scott's own travels.

L. HUXLEY.

March 191 6.

viii

Preface

Many stirring accounts have been written during the last few years of voyages to the South Polar Regions — stories filled with fine geographical and scientific records, won by gallant deeds, unselfish devotion and, alas, also at the expense of valuable lives.

The voyages of the Morning as relief expedition to the Discovery, 1 902-1 904, have hitherto remained unpublished and the object of this book is therefore to fill the gap. The Morning was commanded by Captain William Colbeck, R.N.R. — an able and skilful seaman — to whom the greatest credit is due for the complete success of the Discovery^s relief expedition. He was held in the highest esteem by the authorities, and by the late Captain Scott, and those who sailed with him have none but the happiest memories of his splendid leadership.

ix

PREFACE

Commander Evans, C.B., R.N., who gained distinction in Captain Scott's last glorious but fatal expedition, was an officer on the Morning, and it was mainly through his affectionate endeavours that I became a member of the Relief Expedition. We started our sea career together on the training ship Worcester on the Thames, and this narrative is partly in the nature of a record of our many years friendship.

On the completion of the Morning's voyages, Evans was urged by Sir A. Conan Doyle to write and publish an account of the Relief Expedition, and he asked me to join him in this work. Circumstances arose, however, which prevented the arrangements being then carried out. I have always felt that the story of the Relief Expedition should be on record, and ten years having now elapsed since its conclusion, I have endeavoured to tell it before the vividness of the experience fades from the memory.

I last saw Evans in Lyttelton two years ago invalided from the Antarctic. He had spent the winter in the South, and in the sledging season following he was Captain Scott's

X

PREFACE

right-hand man in carrying out the work of laying depots and supporting the main party. He left Captain Scott in latitude 87° 35' S., and was the last man to see the ill-fated polar party alive.

Every generation will send out its expeditions, journeying to the grim and lonely Antarctic. The adventurous men of future days will sail the icy seas we sailed upon, and gaze with fascinated interest at the great white lands, awe-inspiring and silent. Far away on the western shores of McMurdo Sound, they may see rising from the glacier-filled valleys, Mount Evans and Mount Doorly — a monument to a close friendship and affectionate association of those after whom they are named.

I tender my thanks to Mr. J. D. Morrison, chief engineer of the Morning, for supplying the photographs illustrating the story, to Captain D. Wilson-Barker, R.N.R., for the photograph of the Worcester and his interest in the welfare of his old cadet, and to the Royal Geographical Society for the accompanying map.

I especially extend my appreciation to

xi

PREFACE

Mr. T. W. Whitson and Mr. Malcolm Ross, F.R.G.S., for friendly and valuable advice in regard to the publication of this book.

Last, but not least, I am deeply indebted to the late Sir Clements R. Markham, K.C.B., F.R.S., for his ever ready assistance and generosity. His memory is an inspiration to those who knew him. Through his kindly interest in, and encouragement to us all, he was truly named by the gallant Captain Scott :

* The Father of the Expedition and its most constant friend.'

G. S. D.

DUNEDIN,

February 1916.

Xll mA^

Chapter I

H.M.S. Worcester — My early associations with Evans — Ambition to go to sea together — Boyish incidents — Obtaining the Worcester's two most coveted prizes ....

Chapter II

Temporary separation — Merchant Service and Royal Navy — A happy meeting — Astonishing telegram to join Antarctic Relief Expedition — First visit to the Morning — Difficulties in being appointed — Interviews with Captain Colbeck and Sir Clements Markham — Suspense — Meeting Mulock — Evans pleads our cause — Both appointed to Expedition . . 13

Chapter III

Delight in new work — Preparing for the voyage — Endeavours to obtain a piano — Doubtful hopes — Piano ultimately supplied by Sir Clements — Departure from East India Docks — Cheering ships — Sailing down Channel — Farewell to England ..... 29 xiii i

Chapter IV Page

Bay of Biscay — Unique experience of a piano — Morrison, a lyric writer — Coaling at Madeira — Regrettable result of ' chain lightning ' — The Equator — Court of Neptune • • • 35

Chapter V

First taste of bad weather — Run across the Southern Ocean — Concerts and nigger minstrel entertainment — Sighting New Zealand — A beautiful dawn — Arrival at Lyttelton — HospitaUty of New Zealanders — Preparing for the Antarctic — Sailing day — Humorous incident at farewell service — An impressive send off . . . . . . -43

Chapter VI

Southward ho ! — The stormy Southern Ocean — First experience of ice — The midnight sun — Beauties of Antarctica — Christmas Day — New island discovered — Ship strikes an outlying rock — Captain's skilful seamanship — ' The ice pack — Seals — Exercise and sport — Dangerous gale on edge of pack . . -56

Chapter VII

First glimpse of polar continent — Cape Adare — Plans of Relief Expedition — The humorous penguins — ' Southern Cross ' Expedition hut — First Discovery record found — Along the coast of South Victoria Land — Immense tabular bergs — Possession Islands — Coulman Island — Impenetrable ice pack — Futile efforts to reach Wood Bay — Compass error — Strange ski impressions — Desperate attempt to reach Franklin Island — Providential escape from insetting pack ...... 68

xiv

. .aaiiflftdt* .iri«iaiKv

Chapter VIII Paoi

Difficulties attending our undertaking — Cape Crozier and Mount Terror — Depots to be established if no record found — Party at Cape Crozier — Discovery located — Delayed a week in heavy pack — Mount Erebus — The deadly stillness — Beaufort Island — A sailor's venture — Subsequent humorous sequel — Exciting steam up McMurdo Sound — Sighting Discovery's masts ...... 80

Chapter IX

Ten miles of field ice — Experiments with ice-saws — First visitors — Return of sledge parties — A curious sight — Return of Captain Scott's southern party — First visit to the Discovery — The winter harbour — Meeting Scott, Wilson, and Shackleton — Banquet ! — Captain Scott's speech — Astonishing hunger after sledging — An incident both humorous and pathetic . 96

Chapter X

Weather-bound — Sluggish ice field — Differences in seasons — Sledging over supplies — A coal depot — Sound freezing over — Farewell dinner on Morning — Modest requests — Discovery held for second winter — Departure of the Morning — A sad parting — ' The Ice King ' — Heavy new ice — Morning nipped — An anxious night — Our narrow escape — Sailing north — Days close in — Unpleasant weather — Arrival at L)rttelton . . . .111

Chapter XI

Winter in Lyttelton — Expedition taken over by Admiralty — Terra Nova purchased — Incidents, humorous and otherwise — H.M.S.

XV

FAGS

Phoebe assists in Morning's overhaul — Second departure from New Zealand — Tasmania — Terra Nova at Hobart — A unique tow — Transhipping stores — Sixty-third anniversary of Erebus and Terror at Hobart — ^Hospitality — An original dancer — Scuffle with a sailor — H.M.S. Royal Arthur supplies gun-cotton — Departure from Hobart . . . .125

Chapter XII

Southward — Terra Nova and Morning in company — ^A narrow shave — ^The ice pack again — Second Antarctic Christmas — Scott Island sighted — ' Dead reckoning ' — Admiralty Range — ^Deceptive distances — Fascination of the Antarctic — ^A quaint group — Sea-leopard hunt — View of South Victoria Land — Franklin Island — ^Difference in pack distribution — McMurdo Sound — Sighting Discovery — Extensive sheet of field ice — Hopeless prospects . 141

Chapter XIII

Captain Scott and Dr. Wilson — ^Astonishment at two ships — Doubtful chances of freeing Discovery — Evans and I at Scott's camp — An appetising ' hoosh ' — Charm of an apple — Dangerous moving pack — Preparing to abandon Discovery — Sledging valuables to relief ships — Anxious days — Blasting operations — Snow bUndness — Sailing orders issued — Depressing thoughts — Gale in Ross Sea — Extensive break-up of field — Visit to Discovery — Infiuence of swell at Discovery — Strenuous blasting — Sudden break-up of ice — Exciting rescues — Stirring hours — A struggle for priority — ^Dramatic arrival in winter harbour . 153

xvi

Chapter XIV Pacb

Preparations for freeing Discovery — Morning adrift — Terrific explosions — Discovery released — Thrilling scene — A severe blizzard — Discovery driven ashore — Heavy weather — Trying experiences — Ships alongside glacier snout — Transhipping coal and stores — ' Follow me ' — Start of homeward voyage . .173

Chapter XV

A beautiful Antarctic scene — Ships in company — Impressive coast-line — Morning parts company — Terra Nova escorts Discovery — Boisterous Southern Ocean — Engines break down — An anxious month — Reverses making Auckland Island — Arrival Port Ross — A peaceful contrast — Discovery and Terra Nova at rendezvous — Pleasant days — Ballasting ship — News of outer world — Departure from Auckland Island — A fine slant — Return of National Antarctic Expedition . . .188

Chapter XVI

A great welcome — Evans's wedding — Departure for England — Around Cape Horn — The Falkland Islands — Last run of voyage — Depressing head winds — Change off Cape Finisterre — Running before a gale — The dear Homeland — Morning, steamer or sailer ? — Plymouth Sound — The end of the cruise , . .201

CHAPTER XVII Morning laid up at Devonport — Our diminutive floating home — Dividing the ' spoils ' — Crew paid off — Sailors' affection for their ship — The last of the Morning — Homeward-bound crew — Our unconscious humorist — The Great City — Home, sweet home . . . . .210

xvii

Chapter XVIII Pack

Expedition functions — Captain Scott's lecture at Royal Albert Hall — Graceful tribute to Captain Colbeck — Reception of Morning's crew at Hull — Royal Corinthian Yacht Club's dinner — Captain Colbeck 's wedding — The sad farewell ....... 217

XVlll

ILLUSTRATIONS

The ' Morning ' in McMurdo Sound

H.M.S. * Worcester '

Morrison's Scheme — 'at once Sur PRISING AND Original ' .

The Author ....

Evans and England Observation Hill Part of Scott Island and Haggitt's Pillar ....

An Antarctic Pillar-Box

Delayed for a Week .

Captain Colbeck Reading ' Discovery ' Records found at Cape Crozier ....

' Every Movement was keenly Watched ' . . . .

Approach of our First Visitors .

Captain Scott Leaving the ' Morning '.....

' Discovery ' in Winter Quarters

Sledging Gear and Supplies to ' Discovery ' .

Coal Depot on Glacier Tongue .

xix

Frontispiece Facing page 8

36 42

44 59

104 104

112 112

ILLUSTRATIONS

Shackleton on Arrival at Lyttel-

TON. . . . . . Facing page 126

' England's Downfall ' . . „ 134

Captain Scott and Captain Colbeck ,, 154

Captain Scott's Tent, Cape Royds ,, 158

Arrival of Mail from ' Discovery ' ,, 158

An Occasional Incident — Adrift

ON THE Sea Ice ... „ 168

MUSIC Southward .... Between pages 38, 39 The Ice King . . . ,, 116, 117

MAP

Showing Track of the S.Y.

' Morning ' . . . . At end of text

XX

Chapter I

H.M.S. Worcester — My early associations with Evans — Ambition to go to sea together — Boyish incidents — Obtaining the Worcester's two most coveted prizes.

When passing up or down the Thames between Erith and Gravesend, one cannot help noticing a number of old wooden fighting ships moored on each side of the river. A century ago these were the pride of the British Navy, and upheld the glory of the nation in many conflicts and on many seas. Now they are spending a peaceful old age as training-vessels for the British youth of every class.

Off Greenhithe lies the Arethusa, used as a training-ship for poor boys of good conduct.

These are generally drafted into the Royal Navy and become seamen.

About a mile distant, and moored off the historic Ingress Abbey, lies that excellent training-ship * for young gentlemen desirous of becoming officers in the Mercantile Marine,' known as the Incorporated Thames Nautical Training College, H.M.S. Worcester.

The Worcester and her complement, the Conway, on the Mersey, during their many years of existence as training-vessels, have turned out some of the finest men; and in almost every corner of the globe 'old Worcester s' and 'old Conways' are to be found as captains of great liners, officers of ships of all descriptions, while not a few hold prominent shore appointments in various parts of the world. A certain percentage have also passed into the Royal Navy through the Admiralty granting several nominations from these ships annually.

Boys from all parts of the world have been trained on the Worcester, hailing not only from the British Possessions, but from many foreign countries as well, so that it is not to be won-

ON THE ' WORCESTER '

dered at that old boys are to be found in the most unexpected places.

A number of years ago now, two boys — both under fifteen years of age — joined the Worcester as cadets within a few months of each other. One, the son of a barrister practising in London, had joined the ship for the purpose of passing into the Royal Navy. The other was the son of a clergyman, and hailed from Trinidad, in the British West Indies. The former was Evans, affectionately known as ' Teddie,' and the latter was the writer of these notes. Coming as we did from opposite corners of the world, so to speak, we met as strangers knowing nothing of each other; but it happened that we were placed in the same ' top ' (or section), and slept in hammocks slung next to one another. Boys thrown together in such a way soon get to know each other favourably or otherwise. In the course of a very few weeks we became inseparable chums, and, as boys do, swore eternal friendship. My memory takes me back to the many happy times we spent in each other's company. During holidays we frequently exchanged visits, and our boyish escapades were

4 B a quite in keeping with a certain spirit of adventure which, is so dear to most boys, and particularly so to the budding sailor, who holds ever before him the ideal of endeavouring to live up to the great and glorious traditions of the sea.

Evans was a sturdily-built boy, heavier, but a trifle shorter than myself, and was a splendid muscular specimen, whilst I belonged to that type known as wiry. We used to put in many a half-hour at horse-play, which, speaking for myself, was very hard work. Our wrestling bouts were terrific struggles, and although I was frequently the loser, I think that Evans will admit that for a light-weight I put up a very good fight, and made him exercise his muscles to their utmost. We ran about equally well, and have gone for miles together, each, no doubt, not caring to give in to the other. We were also well up in gymnastic and athletic feats.

I remember on a holiday once riding a tandem bicycle with him through some of the busiest thoroughfares in London, oblivious of the fact that he had never been on a bicycle before. He stated that he

BOYHOOD^S ADVENTURES

would supply all the ' horse-power ' necessary if I did the more scientific work of steering and ringing the bell. We rode for miles, and, marvellous to relate, escaped accident.

In boyish fashion we often competed in odd feats of endurance. One wet evening, after a performance at the Gaiety Theatre, there was the usual rush and scramble for 'busses. Evans's parents were with us, and they succeeded, after several reverses, in getting standing room only. As the stream of packed 'busses rolling by offered little prospect for us, we decided to run home. I am not sure how far it is from the Strand to Regent's Park, but in the bleak, muddy night it seemed quite a long way. We stuck to the game, overtook the 'bus, and had a cheerful fire going and supper ready to greet the others.

Evans stayed with me one night. We arrived late, and found that the family had gone to bed and had locked us out. We did what any active boys would do, I suppose, in like circumstances. By standing on his shoulders I wriggled through a dense creeper, shinned up a drain-pipe, and reached the bedroom window. My brother awakened with a start, but, being used to our playful ways, he turned over with a grunt and was soon snoring again. I let Evans in respectably by the front door, but, in spite of stealth, the stairs creaked horribly.

We were at Margate one Easter, and went out for a pull on a bitterly cold day. To my surprise, when we were some distance from the shore, Evans suggested a swim. I shuddered at the thought, but I couldn't be outdone by my chum. We stripped and dived in. It was awful ; Evans was enthusiastic over its * loveliness ' ; I agreed with a gasp, but was never more thankful than when we were dressed and, with chattering teeth, were pulling back to the pier.

We made a boat excursion one day from Ramsgate to the Sandwich River, a few miles away. Evans' mother and brothers accompanied us. Evans and I considered ourselves expert seamen, but we had a lot to learn. We ran the boat into a creek off the main stream, and, as it was raining, we improvised a tent with oars and sail.

STRANDED ON THE EBB

There was nothing to do but to dig into the provisions. We became so engrossed in this pleasure that the tide gradually ebbed away and left us stranded in a slough of mud : * Women and children first,' of course ; in a few moments feet were bared, and, sinking to the knees in mud, we gallantly landed the lady of the party. After some bargaining at an adjacent inn, we obtained a trap, in which she was ignominiously despatched in the approaching night to Ramsgate. It was impossible to move the boat from the muddy bed, so we decided to ' stand by ' and keep ' watch and watch ' through the gloomy night — for what reason I cannot remember now. We had a hazy idea, I think, that when a vessel was stranded it was necessary for the crew to suffer certain hardships and discomforts. Fortunately for us some coast-guardsmen happened to pass by early in the evening. When we explained our predicament they laughed good-humouredly and told us to go home. They offered to look after the boat when the tide made enough to refloat her. As our enthusiasm had been on the wane, we gladly accepted their assistance, and being cold and wet, we did a fivemile non-stop run home.

We found the boat afloat next morning, and with pangs of anxiety concerning the owner's feelings, we sneaked back with humiliation to Ramsgate. An unexpected welcome awaited us. Another Worcester boy — possessed of an extraordinarily inventive mind — was on the pier surrounded by a crowd of trippers. Quite unusual interest seemed to be centred in our arrival at the steps. We soon heard that this imaginative wag had spread a yarn that a battleship was wrecked in the Downs, and that we were alleged to be two midshipmen who had effected a daring escape ! Our Worcester uniforms lent the necessary colour to this absurd story.

Among the many quaint customs on the Worcester, is a recreation known as * slewing,' which comprises walking round and round the upper or main decks, arm in arm with any particular friend during ' stand easy ' times. It was amusing to see, perhaps, 150 boys walking round and round the decks in this fashion in twos chiefly, but occasionally in threes. There was always a proper

' SLEWING '

decorum to be adhered to before ' slewing,' very similar to requesting the pleasure of a dance in a ballroom. It was not conducted quite as politely, perhaps, though the ' Come and slew ' produced a more or less similar effect.

Needless to say, Evans and I put in many an hour's ' slewing ' during our terms on the ship, and, as may be imagined, all our hopes and ideals were discussed, and it can safely be stated that no two boys ever knew or understood each other better than we did. At one period, our ambition was to go to sea together, and we speculated as to its likelihood. One arrangement was that if he failed to pass into the Navy, we should apprentice ourselves to some sailing-ship firm ; but much as I should have appreciated this, I always felt that his heart was set upon the Navy, and consequently encouraged him in that direction.

I recall to mind most vividly one evening towards the end of our stay on the Worcester, just before prayers and ' pipe down ' (turn into hammocks). We were ' slewing ' together as usual. Evans, who was working hard, and doing many extra hours for the Naval Examination, seemed rather despondent. He was continually harping on the subject of the examination and its consequent results — dreading failure. There were seven or eight other Worcester boys to compete with him, and a similar number from the Conway, I believe, out of whom perhaps only the first two or first three would get through. I felt in my own mind that Evans was good enough for any of them. The hard work and long hours had doubtless caused him fatigue and anxiety. I cheered him up as much as I was able, and assured him that I had confidence in him and felt certain that he would pull through swimmingly.

Now, at the after end of the main deck on the Worcester are two large panels under glass, one on either side. One contains the Ten Commandments printed in gold lettering on a black background, and the other has, also printed in gold, the list of the cadets who have obtained the Worcester's two most coveted prizes since the establishment of the ship as a training vessel. These are the two prizes granted by Her late Majesty

LINKED NAMES

Queen Victoria, and continued by the late King Edward, and by King George. The first is the Queen's Gold Medal, awarded annually to the boy who shows qualifications likely to become the finest sailor, decided by a ballot of the cadets ; and the second is the cadetship into the Royal Navy. The two prizes are regarded as ideals, and I don't suppose there has been a boy who has passed through the Worcester who has not known, almost by heart, the printed regulations on this board, and the names of the successful prize-winners, printed in gold, as far back as 1869.

At each turn of the deck we made on this evening, these printed records confronted us, and Evans, after gazing at the prize board for some moments, suddenly remarked : ' I wonder if my name will ever be printed there.' I replied that I considered it quite likely, whereupon he squeezed my arm and said, rather impulsively, ' Dear old chap, I'll wager that if mine is put there, yours will be printed on the opposite side.' This compliment came as a wonderful surprise to me, as I had never in my wildest hopes ever

II thought that I should have the remotest chance of being selected even to be voted for, or against, by my shipmates. Evans had no idea either; how could he ? But he felt that it would be a fitting conclusion to our career on the dear old Worcester.

A month or two passed, and the results of the Naval Examination being published, it was seen that Evans had passed very creditably first, above all competitors from both ships. A few more months passed, and I was voted ' Queen's Gold Medallist.' Evans was indeed prophetic : our names are printed in gold abreast each other on that coveted scroll of fame. It was an impressive end to our training-ship days, and in keeping with our close friendship.

Chapter II

Temporary separation — Merchant Service and Royal Navy — A happy meeting — Astonishing telegram to join Antarctic Relief Expedition — First visit to the Morning — Difficulties in being appointed — Interviews with Captain Colbeck and Sir Clements Markham — Suspense — Meeting Mulock — Evans pleads our cause — Both appointed to Expedition.

As the steam vessel has largely superseded the now almost obsolete sailing ship, few are the openings left for sailors to pick up a satisfactory freight. The chief line of business left to sailing ships appears to be carrying coal from West of England ports to the West Coast of South America, and, by way of securing return cargo, loading nitrate of soda on the Chilian coast, or proceeding in ballast to the Western States of America for wheat.

During my apprenticeship ports on the West Coast of the two Americas were visited, and it was at Antofogasta in Chili, while I was engaged in the dirty but unavoidable occupation of shovelling coal> that a letter was thrown to me in the hold. It bore a Maltese stamp and postmark, and the writing was unmistakably that of Evans. We were fast friends, yet what a contrast was there in our callings ! We were both becoming seamen, but by very different methods.

At this time Evans was a midshipman on a first-class cruiser in the Mediterranean Squadron. His letter was not written in a cheerful strain ; he complained of being unhappy and discontented, and that ' for two pins I'd chuck the Navy, and apprentice myself with you.* Now, I could not claim much worldly knowledge, and comparatively little of the sea, but it was quite clear to me that whatever Evans's life might be, it surely was not as unpleasant as mine. Reflect upon it as I would, I could not understand how he could willingly desire to exchange a position in the service of his country for the back-aching, rough-and-tumble existence that I was carrying on.

As perhaps he did not realise the nature of my life as well as I could picture his, I

H

A SUFFERING MIDSHIPMAN

wrote off immediately urging him to stay where he was, and not for a minute to entertain such a foolish idea. I learned later on that Evans was just passing through that juvenile stage in the Navy where one has to be subservient to the officer told off to keep the middies up to the mark, and the officer in question was evidently tactless and generally unpopular with the midshipmen. Evans, being physically the officer's superior, strongly resented his alleged bullying, and would willingly have thrashed him were it not that such insubordination would most probably result in dismissal from the service.