Thirteen years in Mexico

Contents

PAGE

Preface 5

An Appreciation 7

Appendix

The Drees Family 244

College Life 248

ILLUSTRATIONS

Charles W. Drees, D,D., as he is to-day Frontispiece

Mr. Drees as a College Student Facing page 78

Mr. and Mrs. Drees at the time of their Departure

from Mexico Facing page 229

Preface

An apology, if one be needed, for offering to the church at large, and to his personal friends in particular, some salient features of the biography of Charles W. Drees, and especially his experiences in Mexico, is found in the following letter written to Dr. J. M. Buckley, Editor of The Christian Advocate.

We quote from the letter : "I certainly hope that your suggestion as to personal biographies of missionaries may be carried out, for in no other way can the whole church ever know what has been borne and done by these brave souls in strange lands, and amid scenes that cannot be imagined here,

"In Mexico, for instance, where I had the honor to spend a few years of hard and dangerous service, there might be written a history surpassing Stevens's wonderful book on American Methodism, in elements of romance, heroic courage, and martyrdom for Christ's sake.

''Among the early workers there whose names deserve to be immortalized in Methodist annals are the Butler family, father and son, inaugurators of the Mexican mission; Craver, the founder of that of Guanajuato; Siberts, the principal of Puebla Seminary; Smith, the evangelist and story-teller; Greenman, the invader of those two fanatical strongholds, Queretaro and Celaya; and Salmans, the medical missionary.

"Besides these there were Monroy, Fernandez, Palacios, Loza, Gamboa, and other Mexican ministers, worthy to stand in the foremost rank.

6 PREFACE

'•But, ninoiio: tlieiii all, Charles W. Drees stands conspiiuoiis ;is the heroic leader of that little band who laid ili( re I lie iDundations of our work in the days of persecution unto death. Physically as well as mentally an athlete, he was always ready in every time of peril, on the first indication of danger, to hasten to the threatened point and expose his life freely for the sake of the brethren, lie was a broad scholar, a constant traveler, a wise counselor, an able editor, a faultless financier.

"(Signed) Duston Kemble."

The letters fonnd in tliis book, written with no thought of their going beyond the limits of the home circle, and whose i)reservation is due to a mother's interest in them, are given publicity in their original form, believing that in their unaffected and familiar style they will be more attractive and serve better the ])nrpose in view, than a more formal account of the experiences related in them.

A. M. C. D.

AN APPRECIATION

The experiences and achievements of Dr. C. W. Drees in Spanish America have been various and monumental, and those relating to Mexico are fairly but not extravagantly set forth in this volume. The writer has been his constant and sympathetic companion and co-worker, and has had no small share in the toils and triumphs here recorded.

He graduated from the Ohio Wesleyan University in 1871, and from the School of Theology of Boston University in 1874, when he was appointed a missionary of the Methodist Episcopal Church to the Republic of Mexico. Here he spent twelve years, acquiring a thorough mastery of the Spanish language and carrying forward important work. In 1887 he was sent to Eastern South American, where he has spent twenty-one years, residing most of that period in Buenos Ayres, the capital of Argentine Republic.

During an interval of four years he was stationed in Porto Rico, superintending the organization of the Methodist Episcopal Church in that island. At this writing he is in Spain, assisting in the revision of the Spanish Bible for which, by reason of his familarity with the Spanish language and scholarly attainments, he has special fitness.

From 1888 to 1912, as Corresponding Secretary of the Missionary Society and of the Board of Foreign Missions of the Methodist Episcopal Church, I was closely related to Dr. Drees, and gladly bear testimony to his fidelity,

8 AN AI'I'KKCIATION

tlili<,'(Mi('0, ability, and snccpss. During a considerable l>ait of the lime spent in South America, Dr. Drees was treasurer of the mission and was noted for accuracy and skill in the nianaKement of financial affairs in general, and in not a lew crirH-il and inii)ortant instances.

The cause of Protestant Missions in Spanish America will be greatly enhanc ed by the jniblication of this volume.

New York Citv. A. B. Leonard.

My part iu the responsibility for this book is limited almost absolutely and entirely to consent to its preparation and publication; and such consent has been given only in deference to the opinion expressed by many who had come to know of the existence of the letters, of which it is almost entirely made up, that the account they contain of experiences as recorded at the time and without any expectation of their publication, or even of their preservation, would be of interest to many and of service to the cause of missions.

The preservation of the letters, unknown and unsuspected for all the years till long after our removal from Mexico to South America, was due to the tender love of a mother who could not bring herself to destroy any line that had come to her from her children so far from home, and passing through experiences which were often to her the occasion of keen apprehension and anxiety.

It has seemed to me best that, if published at all, they should retain all the characteristics they bear as giving impressions and experiences of current days and events, unchanged by any process of later reflection or attempted completion. Here will not be found biography, nor history, nor continuous travel description. There is no discussion of problems of missionary theory or practice. Mexico as a mission field has found other authors to represent it, notably among them the first superintendent. Dr. William Butler, and his son, the Rev. J. W. Butler, D.D. Missions in Roman Catholic countries have been widely discussed iiiid advocated, and are better understood than when I was called into this lield. These letters may allord some illustrations of both themes, but they are uot an ordered discussion of them.

My call to Mexico came within less than a year after the openinj; of the mission, and came throuj^h two magnificent leaders of the church. Bishops Gilbert Haven and Matthew Simpson. The former had preceded the newly appointed superintendent, Dr. \\'jlliam Butler, in entering and exploring the field; had been joined by the latter,, and visited INiebla, which was to be my field, and fixed his uiind u])on the property which was to be the home of the mission and missionary in that city.

His exph^ration accomplished, and the general lines of the projected work laid down in consultation with Dr. Butler, Bishop Haven took his journey homeward, overland, full of generous enthusiasm, to look for money and men for the enterprise. It so turned out that on his way he spent a Sunday in Xenia, Ohio, my ciiildhood home. Having preached in the forenoon in the First Church, both churches united in the evening at Trinity, i to hear an address by the bishop on Mexico.

At its close, with many of the C(»ngregation, my jtarents i were introduced to the bishop with the remark that they i had a son in preparation at Boston for the ministry'. ; Turning to my mother, the bishop said : "You have a I boy in Boston Theological Seminary? Will you give him to me for Mexico?" The answer was a prompt negative, and not till long afterwanl did the mother say a word of the pang that shot to her heart with the bishop's demand.

\ little inoi'e than a year later, her boy was at Iiome for the farewell visit, the uuthought-of having come to pass; and in one of those holy confidences between mother and son, she i<dd of the secret struggle and victory that had brought her to assure lier boy that he would go with her free consent and blessing.

It was from Bishop Simpson that I received my episcopal appointment. He had just returned from his visit to Mexico, and brought back the urgent plea of the superintendent for reinforcements, the first response to which was to be given in the appointment of John W. Butler and myself to that field.

That prince of pulpit orators and great missionary secretaries, Dr. Thomas M. Eddy, gave me my ofiQcial notification of acceptance by the board for Mexico, and my instructions for the field. He was, if I mistake not, a native of Ohio, and his father had been my mother's pastor in her youth and received her into the church.

But for the limitations of its plan, there would be much to say, in these pages, of the chief under whom I served my apprenticeship, and of my associates during the period of my service in Mexico. What space permits I may as well set down here. Of the former. Dr. William Butler, what need to write? His name and service are an open book, knoAvn and read of all men. His experience of Roman Catholicism in youth, his conversion at a Methodist altar of prayer, and his service as secretary of the American and Foreign Christian Union, had peculiarly fitted him to understand the need of missions in Roman Catholic countries, and the methods which would most contribute to their success. The prestige acquired in his service in India, his power as an orator, the intensity of his emotional nature, his utter forgetfulness of all minor sacrifices in enthusiasm for his work, made him an inspiring leader, and fitted him in a peculiar manner for representative action in relation with the authorities of the church and with those of the country' in which he labored. His vision was broad and his faith in God triumphant.

Aiiioiij; my associates 1 canuot count Dr. Thomas Carter, tlie lirst iiiissionary sent out after the opening of (he mission. His stay was brief, although his service must liavi' been of importance in tlie first stages of the work, as he had acquired some knowledge of Spanish in South America, where I was to find in after years abiding fruits of his .service in that field. He had returned to the I'nited States before my arrival in Mexico.

Of Dr. Carter's successor, Dr. William H. Cooper, I have only recollections of veneration and gratitude. He was somewhat advanced in years, an Anglican clergyman, who had acquired a fine command of Spanish while in .service as resident chaplain in Malaga, Spain. He accepted appointment to the pastorate of our Mexico City clnirch, and held that post for nearly two years, tiding the work over the period to elapse before the regular constitution of our mission staff. To his kindness and unl)aid tutorship, .supplementing the services of my Spanish teacher, 1 was much indebted lor progress in acquiring the language, and to his encouragement was largely due the fact that I was able, within a little over four months after my arrival in Mexico, to essay my first sermon in Spanish. It was written and read from the piilj)it, but was followed almost immediately by exteniiMiiiineoiis address in outlying points, and soon in the cential cliurch in Mexico City.

The oiganization of the regular staff of missionaries began, jiractically, with the ai>iiointnient of John W. Huth'r and myself ti) the lield. In be followed two years later by Samuel 1'. Cra\er and Samuel W. Siberts, who came out as married missionai-ies. We four formed the first quaternion at the orders of o\ir chief. We had been fellow students in the liosloii School ol' Tlieology, and, of course, had many things in common.

Later came .1. M. Barker and 0. S. Umpleby, also from

A PEKSONAL WORD 13

Boston; A. W. Greenman and Duston Kemble from Garrett Biblical Institute; L. B. Salmans and G. B. Hyde from Drew Theological Seminary; and L. C Smith, who had passed his missionary apprenticeship in the "Taylor Missions" in Chile, and was full of evangelistic zeal.

We were a congenial band of workers ; knew each other well; with little disparity in age between us. We knew each other's faults and foibles, as well as virtues; we could differ in judgment, give and take in discussion, and, above all, rally ever to the standard. The friendships formed were abiding, and it was my good fortune to be associated with some of the band in later years in South America, where the needs of the work called for others as well as myself.

Greenman, Graver, and Siberts of the parent board, and Misses Le Huray, Swaney, and Hewett of the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society, all were transferred to South America, in response to the call of emergencies in that field.

Of the missionaries of the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society, my associations were chiefly with Misses Hastings and Warner, who had preceded me in arrival, and with Misses Swaney, Le Huray, Mulliner, and Loyd. These women entered upon the field, faced its difficulties and discouragements, solved its first problems in relation with the womanhood of Mexico, won its first successes in Mexico City, Pachuca, and Puebla, and laid the foundations of the magnificent work whose marvelous development is the pride of their society and of the mission.

Over the names of the Mexican brethren of that period one would delight to linger and preserve here the memorial, were it not already written in the deeds they wrought and the service they rendered to the cause of the reformation of their native land. Felipe N. Cordova, a soldier of his countiy in the vindication of its liberties

14 A T»ERSONAL WORD

before he betanie a soldier in the cause of its moral and s|»iritual rofreneration ; Simon Loza, broup:ht to Christ iiud 1 rained in serviee for a widely useful ministry under the influence of S. P. Craver; Monroy, the martyr, and Ferniuidez and Espinoza, the pioneers; Austin Palacios, former priest and distinguished servant of Konie until he became one of the very first converts to the truth of the gospel and, after much and effective service in arousing his countrymen, brought to Methodism the tribute of his ripest ministry — these with others formed the older staff.

Then came the men who formed the first classes in the Theological Seminary, which it fell to me to establish in I'uebla. They were my "boj^s," if I may venture to make use here of the familiar term; Luders, at once student and teacher, Abundio Tovar, Emigdio Coronel, Conrado (Janiboa, Justo M. Euroza, Pedro Flores Valderrama, Severo Lopez, Benjamin N. Velasco, and after them Norbert Mercado, Ignacio Chagoyan, and others.

Memories of them, or most of them, in the class room, of their oi)ening work in the field after they had been thrust out to complete their preparation, Methodist fashion, in the itineracy, of their trials and triumphs, of long leagues on horseback with them in the sierras of I'uebla and Hidalgo, and over the plains of Guanajuato, mostly unwritten history — but service inwrought with llie development of the Mexico mission — of all this only the barest mention may here be made.

Of those name<l, only N'alderrama, now worthily wearing the title of Doctor of Divinity, and President of the Metluxlist Institute of Piu'bla ; ^'elasco, also eminent for siMvice in the educational field; Lopez, long a district superintendent; Chagoyjin. vectMitly succeeding to that title; and Mercado, :n-e si ill in llu^ Mexico Conference, forming with the goodly iiiniihcr of their associates the aggressive leaders of Mexico Methodism, and a part of the larger force for the working out of the new future of their country.

It was my fortune to know Mexico in and out of revolution, in war and in peace, and however one must interpret the recurrent trials and struggles of that country, he may be permitted to record his unshaken faith that out of all the turmoil, and in spite of reaction and conflict, there will come a future in which that beautiful land and its people will emerge into a larger life of peace and material prosperity, of moral and spiritual excellence whose most vital cause will be the influence of the gospel of the Son of God and Saviour of men.

Charles W. Drees.

Puerto de Santa Maria, Spain.

CHAPTER I (On the eve of sailing)

New York, April 24, 1874.

My DEAR Mother :

I am sitting in the Mission Rooms while I write you this letter. I reached New York Wednesday evening, and had on the whole a pleasant journey, saving a terrible headache, which kept me awake most of Tuesday night. I succeeded, however, in sleeping it off toward morning, and felt quite well when I arrived.

I had many very conflicting thoughts and feelings during that day, which I need not put on paper now. It is enough to say that, being consciously in the path of duty, I trust God and go forward.

I went to the Irving House immediately on my arrival, where I am to stay till the steamer goes. Came up here yesterday morning and saw Brother Butler and Dr. Eddy. Now for the result of my conference with the latter. It is expected that Brother Butler and myself will remain in the City of Mexico for a few months studying the language, and probably preaching frequently in English. Then he is to go to Orizaba or Pachuca, and I to Puebla. This is conditional upon the state of things in the country.

As for furloughs, they will be more frequent than from other foreign countries, how frequent I cannot tell. My address will be 5 Calle de Gante, City of Mexico, Mexico. Much love to all, from Charlie.

P. S. — I have just received from Boston a gift of a full

IS TTTTTJTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO

set of Olshausen's Commentary, covering nearly all the New Testiuiiont, seven or eifjjht volumes. I liad it on the list of books I wanted to buy. The gift was wholly unexpected, but all the more acceptable. A very kind letter accompanied it from friends in Bromfield Street Church, IJiuthcr Sleeper and others. The Lord is very good to iiK' tlii'oii'nh his children. C. W. D.

Off Florida Reefs, April 30.

It was a rainy, disagreeable daj"^ when we left New York, so stormy, indeed, that none of our friends were at the pier to see us off, save Brother Terry, who went down with me, but had to leave before we sailed. Between three and four o'clock we moved oil' amid the farewells of friends who were being separated, the waving of handkerchiefs and with the firing of a salute from the ship's gun. As we went down the Bay it became evident that (piite a gale was blowing outside, and when we neared Sandy Hook we saw a number of other steamers and sailing vessels which had anchored there for the night to wait for more propitious weather. The pilot recommended the same course to our captain, and he reluctantly yielded and we soon learned that we were to wait there till Sunday morning. The vessel was already rolling considerably, and most of the passengers seemed to tind it advisable to seek their berths.

Early Sunday morning we got under way again and were soon outside of Sandy Hook, bade farewell to our pilot, and were fairly launched on our voyage. My two traveling companions, John and Robert Butler, were too far gone with seasickness to get up. I was able to go to brcakfjist. but soon had to give up and go to bod also. .Ml day long the sea ran very high, and the ship tossed fcarfnlly. Nc.-n-ly cvorvbndv was sick. Things in our stateroom kept up a lively motiou, tumbling about with every lurch of the shi]). Things within us kept time to the general commotion, as was testified by very unequivocal demonstrations, Robert, who is a natural tease, full of life and spirits, had been brimming over with mischief Saturday night, but was so sick all day Sunday that we heard not a word from his stateroom, which is next to ours.

I have often read of the feelings of wanderers leaving home and country, on losing sight of their native shores, but could not say that I partook of them very fully, and was half inclined to reproach myself for my insensibility. I think, however, I had them in full measure when I left home and during the journey from Xenia to New York.

Monday was a delightful day, and with a smooth sea and fair weather, most of the passengers were well, and out again, and we began to find out who our neighbors were, and to make acquaintances. Tbere are twenty or tliirty cabin passengers, some of them Mexicans, Cubans, and Frenchmen. The party sitting opposite us at table are very pleasant people from New l^'ork, a lady with her son and daughter. We six with the captain, at whose end of the table we sit, make quite an agreeable company.

We have been coasting along just out of sight of land until early this morning, when we sighted the low and sandy coast of Florida. We are now heading for the island of Cuba, which we shall see in the early morning. The only occurrences that have awakened interest have been the sight of an occasional school of porpoises, keeping along with the shij) for a time, and then falling behind; numbers of flying fish and sharks, and this afternoon several turtles. We passed to-day a large steamer aground on one of the reefs, with wreckers around her. We shall stay at Havana two days and then sail for Vera Cruz, stopping at Progreso and Campeachy.

20 tiiikti:i:n yeaks in Mexico

As to the prospect for luy work, I tliiuk, on the whole, it is encouriij{:in{?. A lady ou board, the wife of a gentle- 111:111 living' ill the northern part of Mexico, assures me^ llicre is no real danjjer to life in the country. The murder of Stevens occurred in a town which is almost wholly Indian, a place of thieves and robbers. She says it was a sui'prise oven to Mexicans p^enerally, and was not approved by tliem. She has great faith in President Lerdo's government. She tells me also of many things which seem great obstacles to evangelization, but tlie}' only prove the great need of gospel light and influence which exists in the country. . . .

Tlie account of tlie rest of the voyage is given in his first letter written from the City of Mexico, early in May:

We steamed past Morro Castle and through the narrow entrance to the harbor, and came to anchor about two o'clock, Friday afternoon. The health officer, Chief of Police, and Custom House officials soon came on board, ;md we received special permission to go on shore, the captain of the steamer vouching for our character.

Havana is under martial law, as I understand, and the greatest watchfulness is observed to prevent suspicious characters from going ashore, and to prevent Cubans from fleeing the country to escape conscription. All the new piissongers who came on board here were compelled (o show written jierniits to leave the country. One young mail and two ladies who had come on board were compcliccl, almost at the last moiuent, to take their luggage and go back. They looked miserable indeed.

Our parly consisted of a very polite Frenchman who acted as guide, a Mexican, son of the treasurer of the repiihlic. Mrs. T., with her son and daughter, a Scotchiiiaii. the tun Itidtiiers Butler, and myself. We went in the <'liief of Police's boat and weie soon roAved over to the landing place. From there we walked up to the plaza of the Captaiu General's palace, a beautiful little park filled with trees and flowers, whose freshness and beauty were very grateful to us who had been for a week tossed on the great deep.

Thence we walked a short distance further to the cathedral. It is built of yellowish brown stone, with a facade ornamented with columns and niches. It is broken and scarred with the storms of centuries, and is not very prepossessing in its outward appearance, a fact which well prepares one for the pleasing surprise which awaits him on entering. The lofty pillars and arches support a ceiling richly carved and ornamented, and a dome whose windows of stained glass admit a dim radiance which greatl}' enhances the general effect of the structure. Just within the chancel rail in a niche of the wall, rest the ashes of Christopher Columbus. The tablet which closes the tomb bears a sculptured portrait of the great discoverer and an appropriate inscription. Our conductor went after the key and, opening their place of deposit, showed to us some of the silver service formerly in use but now laid aside.

Leaving the cathedral we secured four calashes, low, two-seated vehicles, drawn by donkeys or small horses, and in procession, single file, proceeded on our way. We attracted no little attention as we tlireaded the narrow streets. Many a black negress would stand on the foot path and display her ivory, or the place where the ivory ought to be, as we passed.

The next place we visited was the Church of the Angels, of no great interest. Thence we debouched into the Paseo, or fashionable driveway of the city, a broad thoroughfare with a walk in the center, ornamented with long rows of trees. Turning from this we were soon at the church of Our Merciful Lady. This is a magnificent new church, not yet quite completed. It is very highly finished and

22 TIIIKTEEN YEARS TN MEXICO

elaborately decora led. The floor is of tesselated marble. The ceiling of the central nave is supported by lofty pillars and inches. The whole interior of walls, columns, and leiling is pure while, but the combination of different colored glass in the windows above diffuses over the whole a delicate, subdued tint that is almost pink.

The high a liar is beautiful indeed in its gilding and drapery, it is crowned by a colossal figure of the Virgin whicli has just been completed. Heavy crimson curlains corneal it from observation save at such times as it is desired to display it to the deluded worshipers. The priest who conducted us asked if we were Protestants, and on learning we were, he look us uj) a flight of stone steps to the elevation on which the image is erected, and gave us opportunity for a close inspection, which would not probably be allowed I lie iiiiiltitude of Catholics whose subjection to the church is seemed largely by the air of mystery which surrounds the worship of Ihe mother church. Besides this nuiin altar there are in the church not less than six lesser shrines. Everywhere we saw the human mother of Christ exalted, while her divine Son, the Saviour, seemed almost ignored. Will the day ever come when these temples shall be consecrated to a purer worship, and filled with worshipers inspired with the power of a vilal Christianity?

When we had completed our survey and freed ourselves from the garrulous priest, we found it was time to return to the sleamer, .so we bade farewell to our kind Frenchman and, taking a little boat, were soon in our quarters on board ship. That night we saw Havana as it appeared in the illnminalion of its Ihousand lights, and lalcr, as llic niooii lose and cast her soft radiance over bay and city, liidiii^f its (lefecls and bringing out its lines of beauly.

W'c went aslioic again next nuiruing, and drove out to the Captain General's gardens, outside the city. As to my general impressions of Havana they are not very favorable. The streets are narrow and dirty, the houses look dilapidated, and the people one meets are dirty, and look as if all the true manhood in them had been perverted and lost.

Havana has a magnificent harbor. Its entrance is very narrow, not more than two hundred yards wide, but within is a large expanse of deep water, secure from storms, where a nation's commerce might find anchorage. There is ample opportunity for miles of wharfage where ships might unload their burdens, but not a single wharf has ever been built. Ships must lie at anchor off shore and discharge cargo into clumsy boats, called lighters, while passengers must be rowed ashore in small boats. All this is just as it was two hundred years ago.

Finally, at sunset on Saturday, we heaved our anchor and steamed out past the old castle and lighthouse, and took our way westward to Progreso. We arrived there without incident, save that a rough sea kept many of the passengers sick all day Sunday. We were so unfortunate as to fall upon a national holiday, the 5th of May, the anniversary of the defeat of the French before Puebla. Not a man could be got to workj so we were delayed twenty-four hours, and lay idly swinging in the waters till the hot day, with no employment save to watch the sharks, which lingered about the ship, but could not be induced to take the baited hooks we threw overboard to them.

At last we weighed anchor and were off to our last port before Vera Cruz. This was Campeachy, where we lay all Tuesday morning. Then, with a feeling of relief, we heard the creaking of the capstan as the anchor came slowly from its ocean bed, for it announced to us that we were entering upon the last stage of our journey.

24 TUIHTEEN YEARS IN MEXICO

All iiij^lil ami all dav l-'riday we plowed the waves, with the 8i)eecl of sleaiii and breeze, aud, just as the sun was Kinkiiif; bcliiiid the far iiilaiid siininiit of snow-crowned Orizaba, we tame to anchor in the harbor of N^era Cruz.