The science and care of the hair and nails

Preface

SCIENTIFIC care and cultivation of the Hair and Nails is the most important cosmetic problem of modern life. In the past, the subject of Hair and Nail growth and health was submitted solely to the pseudoscientific knowledge of the Hairdresser or Manicurist; or the injudicious application of proprietary hair, scalp and nail preparations was resorted to, with frequently disastrous results. Today it is recognized that the scientific care and cultivation of beautiful Hair and Nails lies entirely within the domain of modern medicine.

There is no royal road to the desired end; nor does success crown the particular and limited methods of a favored few. To believe that a healthy, lustrous crop of hair is to be found in a bottle of medicine or a jar of ointment is as inconsistent as confidence that a diseased scalp may be restored to normal health by the extremely dangerous practice of massaging it, thereby aggravating any existing unhealthy condition, and spreading the disease over the entire cranium. Common sense advises that the wisest treatment con-

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iv Preface.

sists in taking only that which is good from the different methods, and combining them into a perfect whole.

This we have endeavored to do.

We believe that a few minutes of time daily devoted to the systematic care of the Hair and Nails, with a careful observation of the laws of hygiene, and with the application of proper remedial measures, will insure nails that are beautiful and hair that is natural in color and normal in quantity until practically the end of life.

H. D. F.

Table Of Contents

Page CHAPTER I.

A Review of Cosmetics 1

CHAPTER II. Anatomy of the Hair and Scalp 31

The Skin — Hair Follicle — Hair Papilla — Structure of the Hair — Sebaceous Glands — Sweat Glands — Blood Supply — Muscles of the Hair — Types of Hair.

CHAPTER III. Physiology of the Hair 37

Rudimentary Hair — Age of Puberty — New Hair — Length of Hair Life — Rate of Growth — Chemical Composition of the Hair — The Pigment — Color Determinants — Shades of Hair — Diameter of Scalp Hair — Hygroscopic Properties — Elasticity and Strength — Uses of Hair.

Chapter IV

False Hair — Sun Bleached Hair — The Hair Brush — Care of the Brush — Proper Use — The Comb — Proper Use — Hair Pins — Hot Curling Irons — Hair Cutting — Clipping the Hair — Singeing the Hair — Shaving — The Hair Line — Dressing the Hair — Hair Dressing Parlors and Barber Shops.

Chapter V

Shampoo Mixtures — Application — Frequency — Apparent Loss of Hair — Chemicals in the Shampoo — Dry Shampoo — Shampoo Formulae — Special Shampoo Mixtures.

CHAPTER VI. Scalp Massage 64

Scientific Methods.

CHAPTER VII. Hair Curling and Hair Straightening 68

Hair Curling Liquids — Kinky Hair — Methods for Straightening.

vi Table of Contents.

Page CHAPTER VIII.

Hygiene of the Hair and Scalp of Children 73

The Shampoo — The Brush and Comb — Hair Cutting — Eyebrows and Eyelashes.

Chapter IX

General Suggestions — Choice of Soaps — The Shampoo— — Shampoo Mixtures — Shampoo for Greasy Hair — Use of Indigo — Drying the Hair — Dry Shampoo — Bleaching — Application of Oil — The Brush and Comb — Hot Curling Irons — Hair Tonics.

Chapter X

Congenital Baldness — Treatment — Acquired Baldness — Early Loss of Hair — Idiopathic Form — Treatment and Formulae — Symptomatic Form — Treatment — Defluvium Capillorum — Treatment — Dandruff — Seborrhcea — Treatment — Loss of Hair Due to Age — Treatment — Bald Spots — Treatment.

Chapter XV

The Perfect Eyebrow — Anatomy of the Brows — Diseases — Defects — Treatment — Methods of Dyeing or Staining— Formulae for Harmless Stains — Eyebrow Pencils.

Table of Contents. vii

Page CHAPTER XVI.

Anatomy — Diseases — Defects — Rules of Hygiene — Methods of Dyeing or Staining.

Chapter XXIV

Manganese — Formulae — Iron — Formulae — Bismuth — Formulae— Quicksilver Dyes— Silver Nitrate Dyes— Method of Application— Special Formulae— Synthetic Hair Dyes.

viii Table of Contents.

Page CHAPTER XXV.

Scientific Application of Hair Dye 225

Proper Method — Suggestions.

Chapter XXVI

The Finger Nails — Anatomy — Color— Shape — Shortening — Trimming — Filing — Cleansing — Hang Nails — Treatment — Treating the Cuticle — Treatment for Dry, Brittle Nails — Bleaching the Hands — Moulding — The Manicure — Instruments and Proper Methods—jCosmetic Preparations-Formulae for : iNail Bleaches — Polishes — Enamel— Ointments — Finger Tints. Diseases of the Nails — Absence of Nail Plates — Warped Nails — Discolorations — White Spots — Treatment — Softening — Treatment — Furrows — Treatment — Nail Biting — Treatment — Eczema — Treatment — Diseases of Nail Epidermis — Treatment. The Toe Nails — Ingrowing — Treatment — Special Instruments.

Chapter I. A Review Of Cosmetics

No age, however uncivilized or barbarous its people, has ever been lacking in a true appreciation of physical beauty of both sexes, this appreciation at times becoming almost a religion. When Thebes' seven gates were modern improvements, and the pyramids yet unfinished, cosmetics of a comparatively high order were practiced in Egypt, and antecede those of any other people of whom we have knowledge. The early Greeks had their Aphrodite, goddess of Beauty and Love, before whose altar they burned incense and offered prayers and sacrifices. For the sake of their remarkable beauty, the lack of morals in Sappho, Phadre, Phryne and many others was forgotten or condoned. Unto the Greeks, the most enlightened of all ancient peoples, we go for our first great Philosophers and Poets, Painters and Sculptors, our first great Statesmen and Warriors. The early Roman history as regards beauty worship is much the same as that of the Greeks. It would be interesting to the student of cosmetics to know how many fair women and brave men, when nature failed or grew weary, came to her assistance with skilled finger and quick brain. While those nations lacked the benefit of the scientific knowledge in the use of cosmetics that is ours, they accomplished wonders indeed, considering what material they had at hand and the ages in which they lived, for cosmetics in their time were more primitive in their composition, as can be readily understood.

In early Egyptian days, the arrangement of the hair among women of all classes varied only as to the ornaments worn; those who could afford it wearing rich jewels, the less fortunate contenting themselves with simple garlands of flowers. The style most general was the braided hair, hanging down either side of the face, with jewels or flowers entwined in the plaits; or cut to hang loose on the shoulders with a straight fringe across the brow. They frequently washed the hair in a charcoal solution which they believed made it much blacker than was its wont.

Although the women were usually supplied with long, lustrous and straight, but rather coarse hair, scalp physicians, wig-makers, and hair specialists were not unknown. Those who were by some unkind fate reduced to wigwearing or using false braids, first exhausted every other means of promoting hair growth. Fancy sending for your scalp physician and having him prescribe pulverized dog's foot — (dogs were plentiful in Egypt) — and date kernels, or ground donkey's tooth and wild bees honey, to be applied next full moon! Or if not content with this, call in your particular sorceress or worker of magic, and be told to apply a spider's web to the crown of your head for ten days; the sorceress or man of magic meantime to do the rest — this of course being shrouded in deepest mystery. All of these methods were employed.

The women were given to the use of facial cosmetics, painting their lips a vivid scarlet. They were unique in the use of face powders, not using, as most women would, a white or tinted powder, but one composed of charcoal and antimony, outlining the brow, cheeks, and chin with this black composition, against which the whiteness of the skin stood out in startling contrast. The eyelids were painted with a black pigment, the line or band extending across the temples to the roots of the hair, and the lower lid being heavily outlined. The Egyptian women had naturally large eyes, and one can imagine the effect of this cosmetic art which made the eyes the dominant feature.

Both men and women used great quantities of oil on the body, no bath being complete without the final rubbing in of highly scented olive oil. The men sometimes used the pigment for the eyes, and were not considered effeminate. They were equally faithful in the care of the hair, which growing very thick, was worn short and uncurled. The face was closely shaven and massaged, and false beards were worn. The styles of wearing the beard varied in shape between round, oblong, square or somewhat rectangular ; and the beard was attached to the face by an adhesive gum. When the beard was full and covered lower cheek and jaw, it was attached by a thread or thin gold wire looped over the ears. The upper lip was always clean shaven. The men at times rivalled the women in their use of perfumes, pomades, and heavy spicy scent. They took much care of their hands and feet, usually abjuring any covering whatsoever for the latter. The finger nails were worn rather pointed, and stained with henna, which gave them a rich orange hue.

Among early Romans the men wore their hair short — that is to the nape of the neck — and trimmed close over the ears. Men of all stations wore a band of cloth an inch and a half to two inches wide bound round the head and tied in a double knot at the back, the ends flowing free. The color of the band was usually purple, sometimes a bright yellow. Close cropped moustaches and long beards were effected by older men ; while the younger men were invariably close shaven. Among women, blonde hair seemed to be the color most desired; and those not so blessed by nature, painted their hair a bright and glowing yellow, using for the purpose an ochre powder. This was carefully washed out each morning, to be again applied in the evening. The frequent washing and consequent dampness of the hair caused it to fall, and many Greek and Roman women had eventually little, and in some instances no hair. Wigs then first came into fashion; or for those ladies to whom some small amount of the "crowning glory'' had been left, its length and thickness was augmented by adding false braids or puffs and curls. Even in that day "rats" and transformations of false hair were known; and we can imagine that these ladies moved with much caution, rather than suffer the embarrassment of leaving these adornments scattered in their wake; for the means of securing them to the head was not so perfected as it is today. It is stated that as many as five hundred curls might at times be counted on the head of a Roman matron. These were as a rule piled high and extended forward; so that viewing the lady from the front she looked quite tall, whereas, from the back, she was pigmy-like in comparison.

The Greek women wore the hair more close, conforming as nearly as possible to the natural shape of the head. As many of them were natural blondes, bleaching was not so much in evidence; but they curled and waved their hair, and when completed, wore a small filet cap of gold, silver, or silk mesh to add to the beauty of the arrangement, and at the same time secure the coiffure in place. The curling iron served the same purpose on the toilet tables of these beauty loving women of semi-civilization as on those of the more enlightened women of our own day.

Both Greek and Roman women, as early as two thousand five hundred B. C., used minium (a red lead oxide), to paint their lips and cheeks. Large and brilliant eyes seem to have been a feature of great beauty in all ages, and for the purpose of enhancing their largeness

A Review of Cosmetics. S

and brilliancy a black pigment was used to outline the lids and lashes.

Blue veined temples were thought most beautiful by Roman and Greek; and these were often faintly traced with blue, a tiny silk-like feather being used to delicately apply the color.

Ground and powdered rice were used freely to whiten the face, neck, and arms, while complexion masks were worn, composed of a dough of almond oil and rice, or almond meal and olive oil. Each morning the face was carefully massaged in warm olive oil. Asses' milk was a luxury, and many wealthy women kept great herds of asses, that they might bathe in the warm milk each morning. Beautiful indeed must have been the skin so carefully tended, white and firm as sculptured marble and of a wonderfully velvet-like texture.

Much attention was given the nails. Manicuring instruments were few, and crude to our understanding; a small, quite sharp, rather long handled knife being used to cut the nail; after which it was highly polished with a white, clay-like substance. The cuticle was left to grow and adhere naturally to the base of the nail. It is not to be thought that the men of this time neglected to take advantage of these cosmetic facilities. Their hair was as carefully curled, pomaded and oiled as that of the ladies, and they wore chaplets of flowers or jewels wound round the forehead. Baldness was less prevalent among men than women, due no doubt to lives spent more in the open, and the less common usage of the headdress. The men had their war-bonnets and helmets it is true, but indulged in occasional periods of peace. They were very athletic, and took great care of their bodies, paying much attention to their feet, and carefully trimming and polishing the toe nails ; and they did not hesitate to use powder and rouge if the fancy so took them. Both Greeks and Romans usually wore the hair long, or to the shoulders; and the older men wore beards neatly trimmed in round, pointed, or square form.

Among the Turkish women, false hair was used profusely; and as they were not generally blessed by any superabundance of hair, great braids of it were attached to their own. Wigs covered the entire head and hung in yard long plaits over the shoulders, or down the back, or were sometimes piled high on the head. Numerous ornaments were worn. Strings of beads, or coins strung into chains, were bound round the forehead ; bright bits of silk and ribbons were plaited into the braids ; and flowers and jewels of all sorts adorned the head. They rouged the face, with a much darker red for the lips; and instead of painting the lids black, used a very dark green pigment, which must have looked odd indeed, and very striking against their rouged faces. Like the Egyptians they used henna on the nails, and sometimes darkened the front teeth. The men were more fortunate, possessing very thick, straight black hair which they wore close cropped, and very luxuriant beards and moustaches, which they kept oiled in order to give it the gloss it would otherwise have lacked. Turbans or long straight pieces of cloth of bright color were worn bound round the head in graceful folds.

The study of the toilets of Moorish women presents something of a contrast as compared to the Egyptian and others. ' Many historians and writers on the subject agree as to the wonderful beauty of these women, not always tall, not always slender, but ever light of foot and with the free grace of movement and carriage of the desert born. They were at their best, both men and women during their occupation of Spain. They neither painted nor powdered; and glorious indeed must have been the hair of these amber skinned beauties — long, thick, and of a silky texture, with sometimes just the suggestion of wave or curl; usually intensely black, but sometimes a rich dark chestnut; and worn loose and flowing, bound only round the forehead with chaplets of flowers or jeweled bands. Beautiful indeed were their softly glowing eyes of brown, mystic, deep; and small, sweetly curved, gently smiling mouths, requiring no art to make them the rosiest lipped women of all nations. Regular, pearly white teeth were not the least of their charms.

False hair was never worn by Moorish women, a superstition existing that if they attached the hair of another to their own, a curse would fall upon them. To send another a lock of hair was a token of surrender or submission. And a cleanly race they were, preferring rather to go hungry than without the daily bath. They were very fond of heavy perfumes. The men are described as darker skinned than their women ; tall and lithe of limb, swift moving and silent, with extremely thick heads of hair and long thick beards, and moustaches close cropped to outline the upper lip. The hair of both Moorish men and women was given every care, hours being spent in brushing and smoothing the hair of the head. The men would sometimes put their beards in plaits on retiring, either to give a slight wave or to prevent tangling. Their hands were extremely well kept as were also their teeth.

It is difficult to adequately describe the women of early Italy. One cannot do so collectively, as each province had its individual costume and custom, its independent King, Prince, or over-Lord. The united Italy we know, is a far cry from the Italy of the tenth century. It is stated, however, by many authoritative historians and chroniclers that the use of cosmetics was well known among the women of the different principalities. They rouged and powdered their faces, darkened their eyebrows, and took advantage of any new idea that was advanced to tempt them to the further enhancement of the natural charms they are said to have possessed in such abundance.

From what can be learned from careful research beginning with the tenth century, their hair seemed to have been their greatest pride, and to have received every care and attention in keeping with the cosmetic knowledge they possessed at this early age.

The arrangement most favored was that of parting the hair in the middle, brushing it back from the temples, and confining it at the nape of the neck with a jeweled brooch, or one of plain gold; or oftentimes with a ribbon of bright silk. From the nape of the neck it was allowed to flow free its entire length. A few curls were left to cluster naturally over the forehead and ears, and bands or chaplets of jewels and flowers were placed above these, encircling the head. Graceful and artistic if the lady had sufficient hair, but if she had not, then false hair was resorted to, and another style of arrangement came to her assistance. The artificial hair was arranged in plaits or braids, and wrapped closely around the head over her own scant locks, a fillet of gold or lace mesh was placed upon the completed coiffure, and with the addition of a rose coquettishly placed, she felt safe from discovery of the practiced deception.

A period of neglect as regards these so-called vanities, ensued as a result of the ravages of the plague in the fourteenth century. The clergy vigorously condemned all personal adornment, and the people were in a state of terror and fear. The priests declared the plague a judgment of God, visited upon them for their worldly vanities.

However, in a few years, the pride of the Italian women reasserted itself, and we are able once more to find them in all their sumptuous beauty, both God-given and acquired. During the life of Titian, 1477-1576, blonde hair was again the fashion. This wonderful artist, whose fame will last as long as time, chose for his models women with red, red blonde, or golden blonde hair. Consequently the Venetian women made every effort to secure unto themselves this coveted shade of hair. They were long-suffering and patient, undergoing tortures in the cause, and the blonde hair vogue eventually spread to Milan, Naples, Florence, and throughout Southern Italy.

The method of bleaching was simple but required fortitude and courage. In many dwellings in southern Italy the roofs of the houses were used to a greater or less extent as sun parlors; and if not the roofs, then unroofed enclosures wherein the sun shone brightly. The determined lady would sit for hours during many consecutive days on the roof or in the enclosure, saturating her hair in a solution of soda and water, salt and water, or saffron solution, whichever she deemed most efficacious; letting it dry and immediately saturating it again until the desired shade was obtained. During this period of "Titianizing", Milady was not visible to callers.

And so it continues with little change, albeit a more marked individuality in costume. The women of United Italy of today are much the same as their sisters the world over, more or less slaves to the prevailing fashions.

However, for freakishness in cosmetics and fashions of coiffure, one must look to the early English men and women. They borrowed fads and fashions, willy-nilly from all nations and all races during a period of eight hundred years. Commencing with the tenth century on through many successive reigns, one gets a kaleidoscopic view of the hundred and one fashions that flit back and forth through the pages of history. Each succeeding king or queen brought with them their different style, which lived its short day and was replaced by another.

The early Norman women remained faithful to their wimple, (an arrangement resembling a nun's coif) for more than a century, the longest period known for any one fashion. Under this confining band of white linen, the hair was coiled and tucked and pinned until the only remaining evidence of hair would be a rebellious lock or two, which would escape upon the forehead.

Despite constant warfare the men found some time to devote to their beards and hair. If the women looked odd in wimples, how much more so did the men look with the backs of their heads clean shaven ! William the First brought this fashion into England, but it was short lived, and happily so, as it had nought of grace or beauty to commend it.

Close in the wake of the shaved heads, followed the fashion of many ringlets and long flowing beards and moustaches; the former, at times, reaching below the waist.

Much washing, combing, brushing and pomading was indulged in by the men, and the use of highly perfumed pomades finally won for them from the clergy the contemptuous term of "scented goats". However, as a result of this careful attention to hygiene, the hair soon grew long and of a much finer texture. And finally, the Norman gentlewoman shocks and astounds her lord by appearing before him wimple-less. The first brave lady must have been happy in possessing an ample quantity of hair; and a very pardonable vanity will suffice as an explanation for a revolt from a most unbecoming fashion, a century old. One can imagine the change being a most satisfactory one; and while bidding a willing adieu to the wimple, welcome the new fashion of the hair hanging in long braids, on each side of the lady's head, giving to the face a softer and more womanly contour. Later, after the disappearance of the wimple, when the ladies discovered their locks to be scanty, what more natural than they should supply the want by adding false braids? these false braids, or casings, falling in many instances to below the knees. As with the men, the change necessitated greater attention to the care of the hair, which eventually caused it to grow long and soft and very thick.

A few years pass and we find the men wearing their hair brushed back from the face, parted carefully in the center, and one thick lock brought forward from the crown of the head to fall over the dividing line so that its free end lay lightly on the forehead. Some wore beards and moustaches, and others went clean shaven. At times it would seem the men grew tired of the careful grooming; and we see the hair worn close cropped and the faces clean shaven.

Again the wimple appears with its stiff ungraceful folds, and women's chief adornment is sacrified to the ruling of custom; nor does it again make its appearance for a century and a quarter. The only difference from the old style wimple being that the hair flowed loose under the long concealing folds.

For a time men followed their own individual fancy, and many were the modes of hair dressing to be seen, Some wore the hair long and many affected flowing ringlets with moustaches and beards. Others wore the hair close cropped and their faces smooth shaven.

It is well to note here that in all the years covering the reign of many kings, head coverings were rarely worn by the men ; and to this, no doubt, the thickness and general good condition of their hair was due.

From many well preserved plates and cuts of this time, one finds no change has taken place in women's costume. The eternal wimple and the long straight robe seem to be the universal fashion. A few kings have come, ruled for a little space, and left their mark on history's pages, to be succeeded by another who in turn did his best — or worst. And, we find the ladies rouging, for almost the first time in English history. First but faintly touching the lips; only to realize the beautifying possibilities, and then beginning to paint the cheeks, and to powder their faces, and even to darken their eye brows and lashes, for one cosmetic would seemingly call for another. This rouging, possibly, was a revival of a custom once common among the early Britons, who painted their faces, arms, necks and chests with wode, (a substance derived from the blue wode flower), or sometimes with safTron. Or, it may have reached them, tardily to be sure, from the Egyptians, Greeks, or Romans, who had known of it for centuries.

One sees in this first use of cosmetics by the ladies of this time, a forerunner of many changes that are to follow. Give the ladies a rouge pot and a powder puff and we will soon learn that the day of simplicity has reached its gloaming. For milady, to be in keeping with tinted lip and blooming cheek must necessarily adopt many other odd and sometimes ridiculous fancies. Women are rarely content to accept half measures.

There is also a noteworthy change in women's coiffure. The Queen wore her hair most elaborately coiffured at all times, and her favorite arrangement was to part the hair in the middle, brush it forward on each side of the face, and push it, (unplaited) into two cases, circular in shape, bound to the head by a fillet of gold. These cases were of gold fret work, ornamented with precious or semi-precious stones, and were very costly.

Again the hair was loosely coiled and placed in a bag of gold wire and jewel work; or sometimes in two plaits or braids, arranged on each side of the face and held in place by a fillet. Sometimes the plaits folded straight down from the parting in the center, over the ears; and a small cap of gold wire was placed at the back of the head. If the hair was allowed to flow loose, a wimple was worn. Just as one is prepared to breathe a sign of relief, it is abruptly checked as Madame Wimple is announced. One could easily imagine these ungainly headdresses influencing English politics. Kings come and kings go for some quarter of a century; and we again bow Madam Wimple out, and yellow hair again is much in favor.

The Roman women adopted it from the early Teutonic natural blonde, and the English women in turn found it equally irresistible. Bleaching with saffron and quince juice was resorted to in order to obtain the chosen color, blondes being in the minority. However, one is pleased to learn that the ladies had still some hair left on which to work this chemical change.

The now reigning king is a leader of fashion. (When has a king not perforce been so?)

But this one was lenient with his subjects in the way of fashions, fads and preferences, and every form of moustache and beard was worn. The hair was worn long, touching the shoulders, gracefully curled and pressed at the ends. A band of real or artificial flowers graced the heads of the beaux. Hoods or "chaperons" were worn, tied about the head with a liripipe, a long strip of material corresponding to that of the hood and attached to the crown or top of the hood ; and this strip was at times two or three feet in length, with the ends wrapped around the neck. Later, when unwound, this unique affair reached the ground. Sometimes it was swathed about the head turban fashion, the free short end slipped through a fold and left to stand out like a cockscomb. We still see what remains of the liripipe worn as a cockade by footmen and coachmen.

Women have ever been ruled by fashion, and in this reign were slaves to it. Is it not difficult to imagine a fashion which decreed the plucking out of eyebrows, and shaving the back of the head? But that this fashion was submitted to by the majority of the fashionable women of this reign, is vouched for by many historians and writers on costume and custom of the English. There is no other feature that lends so much to facial expression, and softens the contour of the face, and is such a necessary complement of the eyes and nose, as the eyebrow; and yet these were unhesitatingly sacrificed that Milady might not be a second behind her sister in keeping pace with the so-called smart fashions of the day. And those dainty curling tendrils that snuggle so softly at the nape of the neck — they too went the way of the eyebrow.