The two Americas

Front matter

cK ■'

"Vfi. A

-S- K v «

CHAPTER I My Visit to Europe

The Iberian Peninsula — Similarity of characteristics and physical conditions — National dignity and hospitality — A true christian democracy in Spain — The influence of the Church — Establishment in Madrid of the Ibero-American Union to promote closer relations with the Latin-American republics — A trip through Portugal — The Portuguese Conquistadores.

CHAPTER II In Paris 11

My reception by the Franco-American Committee and the diplomatic representatives of the Latin countries — An address of welcome by M. Frangois Carnot — Co-operation of the Franco-American Committee with the Ibero-American Union of Madrid in the development of racial objects and ideals — Conference at the Hotel Majestic attended by distinguished leaders of the Latin race — Notable addresses by M. Carnot and the Spanish ambassador to France — A closer union of all the Latin nations based on principles of justice — The force exercised by the Latins of Europe and America as a stimulant to the progress of the world.

CHAPTER III In the United States 21

The dominant features of national character — The American edifice built up on the elevated civic virtues of Washington,

ix x CONTENTS

PAGE

Franklin, and other pioneers of independence — The love of immigrants for the land of their adoption the same in the United States as in Argentine, Chile, and Brazil, where the private and public virtues of the founders of those nations constitute the basic formation of character — The genuine American sentiment is to resist the rule of Mammon, notwithstanding the modern growth of imperialism and dollar diplomacy — Latin-American countries need the sympathy and help of the United States for their progressive development — The error of many of the Latin republics in adopting the laws and institutions of the United States before preparing their people to properly use and understand them— Periods of revolution and disorder gradually ending — Functions given in my honor by the Pan-American Society of the United States and other public bodies engaged in the effort to extend the objects of Pan-Americanism— -Speeches by notable authorities — The propaganda in favor of American union — The Pan-American Union and the Pan-American Society of the United States — The Pan-American Congresses in Latin-America — The ardent labors of Senator Elihu Eoot, of the Hon. John Barrett, of Secretary Bryan, Col. Eoosevelt, and others — The Clark University Conference on Latin-America — The doctrines of President Monroe, President Eoque Saenz Pefia, and Senator Lodge — The baneful effects of imperialism — Interviews with American notabilities — The Explorers' Club, of New York, and my early explorations.

CHAPTER IV My Early Explorations 40

The primitive conditions of nature — The savage native Indians — The immense territories and waters spreading from the central mass of the Andes to the Atlantic, unknown during the colonial period — My first visit to those regions with my brothers, Henry and Nestor — Traversing the rivers of Peru, Ecuador, Brazil, Bolivia, Paraguay and Argentina. Explorations continued for several years at our personal expense without government aid — My brothers perish while engaged in the arduous enterprise, Henry as a victim of yellow fever, and Nestor at the hands of the Putumayo cannibals, who devoured him — Crossing the cordillera of the Andes on foot to a height of 12,000 feet above sea level to the region of perpetual snows — Opening up roads through unknown forests, inhabited by vipers and wild beasts, cutting down with the machete the brambles, briars, and creepers, which obstructed our passage — Making friends and guides of the cannibal tribes — After great hardships we ultimately discover a river navigable for steamships, between Colombia

CONTENTS xi

PAGE

and the main waters of the Amazon — My arrival at Eio de Janeiro, and reception by Dom Pedro II, who showed keen interest in the discovery of the new waterway — Later explorations — Establishment of steam navigation and an overland route between Pasto and different points of the Andes — The subsequent extension of these channels of communication with the proposed Inter-Continental Eailway and the Panama Canal will ultimately lead to the linking up of the entire continent.

CHAPTER V The Panama Canal 62

The first measures to construct a canal to join the waters of the Atlantic with those of the Pacific — Many concessions granted, but no construction work commenced until the end of 1887— The treaty of 1846 with New Granada— The later negotiations with Great Britain in regard to the Clayton- Bulwer (1850) and Hay-Pauncefote (1901) treaties — The acquisition by the United States of the concession and rights of the French Company obtained by the latter from the Government of Colombia — The Hay-Herran treaty (1903) and its rejection by the Colombian Senate — The revolution in Panama, the declaration of its independence and its subsequent recognition by the United States — My efforts to suppress the revolution with the aid of the military forces placed under my command impeded by American warships whose officers prevented the embarkation of Colombian troops for the seat of the rebellion — My later visit to Washington as the special envoy of my government to secure a modification of the Hay-Herran treaty — Failure of the mission — The diplomatic negociations — American authorities cited to show justice of Colombia's action — The pending claims and what they embody — The advantages of the canal and of a settlement with Colombia.

CHAPTER VI From New York to Brazil 78

By the Voltaire from New York to Eio de Janeiro — The change from the cold, gray haziness of winter to the warmer climes and sunny scenes to the south of the equator — The study of the passengers — Different types of Americans — Eussian nihilists and anarchists from Southern Europe — Our approach to the mouth of the Amazon, the "Sea Elver," which is navigable over a distance of 13,000 miles.

xii CONTENTS

Chapter VII Page

Its extension and geographical limits — Physical division and population — Discovery and conquest — History and changes of rule — The two empires — Dom Pedro II, personal recollections — Brazil's modern progress — The Development of its resources and stability of government — National culture and ideals Geological formation.

CHAPTER VIII In Bahia and Rio de Janeiro 106

Transformation of the city — Brazilians the enemies of tree culture — Rich soil — The cultivation of tobacco, cacao and other tropical products — Bahia the third city of importance in Brazil — Population and classification of industries — Notable buildings — The journey from Bahia, to Rio de Janeiro — Arrival at the Federal Capital — The magnificence of the surrounding scenery — The spacious parks and avenues, the majestic palms and the palatial and artistic buildings — Area and population — The Marquis of San Vicente — The abolition of slavery and how it was accomplished — My visits to the President and the Minister of Foreign Affairs — From Bio to Montevideo by land — The difficulties of the trip.

CHAPTER IX The City and State of Sao Paulo 122

Travelling through several States I reach the City of Sao Paulo — Reception by state officials — One of the most beautiful cities of the western hemisphere — The picturesque gardens, public squares, well-paved streets and handsome monuments — State education highly advanced — The increasing growth of industrial life — The State contains many manufacturing establishments, although the cultivation of coffee constitutes the main industry — The great ' ' red ' ' lands — The treatment of the laborers by the coffee planters — The production of coffee and value of the plants — Other industries and land values — Railways in the State — Natives of Sao Paulo, the "Yankees of Brazil" — The State possesses many indigenous plants, which could be profitably exploited for the production of essential oils and extracts — Great opportunities offered by natural resources — Sao Paulo the birthplace of many of Brazil's leading statesmen, writers and scientists — Brazilian literature, art and science.

CONTENTS xiii

Chapter X Page

Through Brazil by Land to the River Plate . . . 138

The pastoral and agricultural industries of Brazil — Favorable climatic conditions — Flora and fauna — The wild animals of the forests — An exciting adventure with a herd of fighting boars — The State of Parana — Inter-tropical vegetation — The Panama pines — Cultivation of cotton — The capital of the State — The foreign colonies — A new generation of patriotic Brazilians — How the new population lives — Division of the land — Pine wood and mat6 production — New cities in course of formation — The assimilation of the new comers- Extension of railways — The pioneers of the iron horse — Wages of laborers — Cultivation of the banana industry — Unpopulated fertile lands awaiting the hand of the agriculturist — The knowledge of foreign languages — ignorance of conditions in Brazil impedes large extension of commerce with the United States.

CHAPTER XI The Oriental Republic of Uruguay 166

The rich meadow lands of the Banda Oriental — The evolution of political conditions in Uruguay — The national constitution exercises a progressive spirit on the country — The codification of the laws — Favorable comments of foreign authorities — Preparing for colonization — Healthy conditions reflected in the low rate of mortality — The origin and development of the stock-raising industry — Wool production and European speculators — Montevideo a beautiful city — The character of the people — Mistaken patriotism hitherto a drawback to progress — Baneful effects of past revolutions on national production — Industrial and commercial advance — Means of communication rapidly extending — Colonization increasing — Uruguay's policy towards her neighbours — Port improvements — Education and justice — A land of the future.

CHAPTER XII The Republic op Chile 183

The barrier of the Andes — The transandine railway another link in the joining up of the Atlantic with the Pacific — Physical conditions — Volcanic outbreaks — Crossing the Andes — The imposing scenery — The Christ of the Andes — The rich and fertile lands in the valley of Aconcagua — The Chilean huaso at home — Topography and climate — The nixiv CONTENTS

PAGE

trate industry — Development of national resources — The cities of the republic — Political organization and public life — Ethnological conditions and their effects on the people — The Araueanian Indians, the only unconquered race of Indians on the American continent — Their final entry into Chilean citizenship — Hospitality a national practice — A visit to Almahue — The national dance, la cueca, more graceful and attractive than any other known to the Spanish-speaking peoples — Mineral wealth of Chile — Advantages to be derived from the opening of the Panama Canal — Cultivation of fruits and flowers — Chile the garden of the temperate zone in South America — Nationalization of railways — Population — Proportion of foreigners to inborn citizens particularly small — Education making rapid strides.

CHAPTER XIII The Argentine Republic 207

Wealth of the soil — Phenomenal progress in every branch of national life — Geographical division — The Patagonian region — Geological formation — Theories of scientists as to the disappearance of mammals — Climatic conditions — Discovery and conquest of Argentina — History — Foundation of the Colonies — Ultimate independence.

CHAPTER XIV In Camp and City 222

Eacial characteristics — Immigrants an element of force — The Argentine estancia — Agricultural and pastoral production — Life on the ranches — Land values constantly rising — The City of Buenos Aires — Its elegance and culture bear favorable comparison with those of any European city — Fabulous prices paid for pedigree stock — Enormous and rapid growth of the city — Extension of electric tramways, lighting and docks based on plans of American engineers — Other cities of the Eepublie.

CHAPTER XV Argentine Conditions, Progress and Culture . . 235

Religious and political liberty — Liberality of the constitution — Tolerance and freedom the watchwords of national legislation — Population heterogeneous, Spanish and Italian predominating — Few Americans — Germans numerically stronger than British — British capital invested in Republic reaches $2,000,000,000 — Every British subject resident in

CONTENTS xv

PAGE

country represents $66,000 — German trade rapidly increasing — The protection of foreign interests — National honesty — Nearly one hundred million dollars remitted annually to Great Britain by way of dividends and interest on investments — Advanced legislation — Argentine diplomats and jurists — Buenos Aires an attractive city for foreign diplomats.

CHAPTER XVI Argentine Commeece and Finance 248

Imports and exports — Value of Argentine market to the United States — Many articles manufactured in U. S. are imported from Europe at higher prices owing to absence of more direct contact between manufacturer and importer — Eailway extension — Currency laws — Conversion of gold and currency established on permanent basis with no possibility of fluctuations — Gold reserves, maintained by law, already exceed $264,000,000 — Proposed change of monetary unit — National bonds and foreign markets — Eeciprocal tariffs may lead to increased commercial relations with the United States.

Chapter XVII

Productive capacity of Peru — Lima, the historic and picturesque capital — Called by its founder, Pizarro, the "City of the Kings" and, later, "a precious shrine of colonial gallantries and splendours" — Dignity and aristocratic qualities of its inhabitants — Educational establishments — Principal products, minerals and nitrates — Railways spreading out even in the direction of the Amazonie territories — Connections now being made between Lima, La Paz and Panama Canal — The Peruvian Corporation — Mixture of the races — Peru 's foreign trade largely in the hands of Great Britain — British institutions and names prominent in Peru — Literature and culture.

CHAPTER XVIII The Republic of Boltvta . 266

Wide contrasts in all national conditions — Topography, climate, products and inhabitants constitute mass of conflicting elements — The mysterious lakes and the legendary Titicaca — The fruitful warm lands and the eternally snow-capped xvi CONTENTS

PAGE

mountains — Principal cities — La Paz, the capital, the highest in the world — Bailways penetrate the mountains — The Indians and their domestic customs- — Industrial activity extending.

CHAPTER XIX The Republic op Ecuador 272

Early history — Ecuador the first country in Spanish America to demand independence — Eepublic making steady progress, but rapid advance impeded by lack of financial resources and foreign credit — Territory rich in minerals — Other Industries restricted by absence of adequate railway communication — Panama hats a principal product — Quito, the capital of the Eepublic, distinguished by its beautiful buildings and patrician society — Ecuador, despite the adoption of the metric system, still uses the old Spanish weights and measures — Patriotism of the people — Opening of Panama Canal will confer important material advantages on country.

CHAPTER XX The Republic of Colombia 277

Possesses a coast extending from ocean to ocean, embracing vast areas of productive soil — Eevolutionary period ended — Eepublic now on forward march — Mineral and vegetable products — The ports of the Eepublic — Tropical vegetation — Life in the valleys and on the rivers Cities and population — Flourishing industrial centers — Gold production — Interview with Mr. Thomas A. Edison — Bogota, a delightful city where warm and unaffected hospitality is extended to the stranger — The women of Colombia and their influence on the national character — Cardinal Farley's views as expressed to the author — My accession to the presidency of the Eepublic — My first administrative acts — Eeorganization of the army — Educational advance — Great future of the country will be assisted by opening of Panama Canal and extension of railways — Analysis of moral conditions of the people — Population and racial characteristics — Completion of canal will bring an influx of immigration — Peace and prosperity now the national motto — Last will and testament of Bolivar, the Liberator.

CHAPTER XXI Conclusion 302 ILLUSTRATIONS

General R. Reyes . . . . . . Frontispiece ^

PACING PAGE

Buildings and Grounds oe the Pan-American Union,

Washington, D. C 26 ^

Dr. Belisario Porras, the President of Panama . . 27 i/ First View op Canal Since the Blowing up of Gamboa

Dike 64 ^

First Vessel Passes through Gatun Locks op Panama

Canal .65^

Marshal Hermes da Fonseca, President op Brazil . 84 ^

Salto de Piracicaba, Brazil 85 v

BlBLIOTHECA NATIONAL, RlO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL • . . 106 '

Avenida Rio Branco, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil . . . 107

A Full Grown Coffee Plant 116 v

Loading Coffee at Santos, Brazil 117

Making Coffee Bags in the Factory of Santa Anna,

State of Sao Paulo 130

Normal School in the Capital of Sao Paulo . . . 131 V

Sr. Don Jose Battle y Ordonez, President op Uruguay 166 v

"Plaza de la Libertad," Montevideo, Uruguay . - . . 167 v

Ramon Barros Luco, President op Chile .... 184

R. Reyes and Two "Huasos," Chile 185 S

Mercurio Building, Valparaiso, Chile .... 204 l

New Palace op Fine Arts, Santiago, Chile . . . 205 Dr. Roque Saenz Pena, President op the Argentine

Republic 218

xvii xviii ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

Plaza Hotel, Buenos Aires, Argentina .... 219

Docks and Elevators, Buenos Aires, Argentina . . 234

Bathing Cattle, Buenos Aires, Argentina . . . 235 •

Threshing Wheat, Argentina 254 x

Lima, Peru 255 v

Cathedral, Lima, Peru . 264

Government Palace, Bolivia 265

"Plaza," La Paz, Bolivia . . . . . . .274^

Bolivar Park and Statue op General Simon Bolivar,

Guayaquil, Ecuador 275 v

Military Parade in the Plaza, Quito, Ecuador . . 284 y

Bolivar Park, Bogota, Colombia 285 v

Introduction

rpHE numerous additions which have lately been -*■ made to Pan-American literature and the unquestionable authority of some of the distinguished writers in that field have rendered available to the student of Latin-American conditions much hitherto inaccessible information relating to the countries in the southern portion of the American continent.

In the preparation of this book I have studiously avoided the attempt to furnish a complete history of the various States, or, to deal, in detail, with matters which should more appropriately come within the scope of technical publications. This work represents a record of my recent travels through the Latin countries; an epitome of the observations and deductions made during the many years in which I have enjoyed special facilities for closely following, step by step, the development of the American Eepublics and the convulsions of their ardent and vexed democracies; the fulfilment of a long-cherished desire to survey personally those Eepublics, in order to gather, at first hand, interesting data concerning their progress, their prospects,

xix xx THE TWO AMERICAS

and their possibilities ; and the opportunity to raise a sincere voice of encouragement for an entente cordiale among them all, from the standpoint that these nations of common origin should strengthen their mutual relations and, in fraternal embrace, hasten the advent of that glorious future to which they are so manifestly entitled by their resources and their traditions. Yet, it is not alone by peaceful development within their borders, or by a wider recognition of the ties of sisterhood among themselves, that their legitimate aspirations will be fully realized. It is essential to the welfare of the entire continent that the same friendly intercourse and cordial relations should be established with the United States, so that all the countries of the western hemisphere may labor, side by side, to their collective and individual advantage and for the glorification of America as a whole.

The doubts and suspicions prevailing in the south as to the policy and intentions of the United States toward the other Republics must disappear to make way for a true union of the two Americas; and it may be permitted to me, as one who has played a prominent part in the effort to secure the blessings of peace in some of the southern Republics, to point out what I regard as the primary causes of these doubts and suspicions and to indicate the course of action and the methods whereby they may be removed.

INTRODUCTION xxi

When I commenced my tour through the Two Americas, it was my intention to visit all the countries forming the great South American Continent, including the States of Central America, from the Rio Grande to the Straits of Magellan, as well as those constituting the Archipelago of the Antilles. Owing to circumstances beyond my control, added to a breakdown in health, I was unable to fulfil the mission I had voluntarily undertaken, although I visited a sufficient number of those promising lands to establish the identity of the basic conditions which govern the whole of Latin America.

Some of these countries, particularly in Central America, notwithstanding their comparatively circumscribed areas, possess great potential wealth, enlightened citizens, and most of the favorable conditions of the sister-Republics. During the greater part of their history they have been victims of the internal political dissensions and fratricidal wars which have weakened the forces of so many Latin- American nations ; but, to-day, there is justification for the view that they are emerging from the troublous conditions induced by these incessant revolutions and that their differences are being adjusted by more peaceful measures, creditable alike to their honor and to their patriotism. These nations are beginning to learn that their material prosperity rests on the establishment of confidence abroad, where respect for authority and orderly governxxii THE TWO AMERICAS

ment is as much regarded as a consideration in the investment of capital in foreign countries as is the value of the security offered by the undeveloped national wealth.

Unhappily, there is one country of Latin America still afflicted by the horrors of civil war; but that country, like the others of Central and South America, has many sons, distinguished by their elevated sentiments and breadth of view, who will eventually succeed in definitely closing the era of internecine strife and in subordinating the interests of party to the higher interests of State. Meanwhile the thought must weigh that, if any Eepublic on this continent obstinately continues in the opposite course, neither the indomitable bravery of its people, the extent of its territory, nor the inexhaustible wealth of its resources will prevail to save it from succumbing to the influences of the unwritten law of modern intervention. There are many factors operating as a bar to friendly relations and mutual confidence between the Latin Republics and the United States ; but, while the fundamental cause of much of the unfriendly feeling now unfortunately existing in the greater part of Latin America may be traced back to the protracted disturbances in the political conditions of some of the smaller Republics, the United States is very largely responsible for the uneasiness and apprehensions which appear

INTRODUCTION xxiii

to inspire all the Latin countries in their dealings with the great Bepublic of the North.

One reason for the present situation is the popular misconception in the United States of the real significance and objects of the Monroe Doctrine, which in many quarters is looked upon as a kind of international police regulation to be administered by the authorities at Washington for the better preservation of law and order in the somewhat extensive ' ' municipal area ' ' of Latin America. It does not appear to be sufficiently known, or understood, that President Monroe's famous declaration, in 1823, was designed as a measure of protection for, and not as an instrument of attack upon, the integrity of the then recently established Spanish Eepublics ; and that, from its initial adoption down to its latter day reaffirmation, it was intended and has been declared to be governed by the sole purpose of linking together the sisterhood of the American Eepublics and of guarding the weaker States against the undue aggression of any of the countries of the other hemisphere. This interpretation of the much abused Doctrine has been distorted by a not uncertain wave of misrepresentation, strengthened by a section of the press, into a widespread belief that the United States derives from its provisions the right to intervene in the internal affairs of, and to exercise a species of suzerainty over, some of the Latin Eepublics, when it is considered desirable or xxiv THE TWO AMERICAS

necessary to do so. It is by that belief, to which color has been given on frequent occasions by mistaken official action, that the doubts and fears entertained in Latin-America in regard to the United States have been engendered. That pernicious propaganda has likewise tended to obscure the fact that every one of those Republics, which, in their early political development, struggled so valiantly to free themselves from the yoke of oppression and the misgovernment to which in their colonial serfdom they had for so long been subjected, is a distinct unit among the American nations with an incontestable right to complete independence and sovereignty.

Another element which has served to accentuate the distrust of the Latin people of the American continent in their international relations with the United States is the still largely existing lack of knowledge of actual conditions. The term "South America,' ' as applied, with a delightful disregard of geographical accuracy, to all the Eepublics of America outside the United States, is usually associated by a not inconsiderable number of American citizens with a race of people possessed of territories enveloping great natural wealth, but, of a grade of civilization on a footing, more or less, with the Filipinos or, perhaps, the Hawaiians.

It seems to be overlooked that the people of Latin America are the descendants of a race imbued with

INTRODUCTION xxv

that beautiful spirit which inspires all great achievements; that their intellectual qualities, their blood, and their energies, make them ideal nation builders, embodying all the higher elements of progress. It seems also to be overlooked that the moral and material advance of some of those Eepublics has placed them in the forefront of great nations ; and, that what has happened in those cases will be repeated in the course of time by the now less advanced nations which have already furnished abundant proofs of their virility and progressive spirit. Personal intercourse and knowledge enable me to appreciate the sterling qualities which underlie the occasional mistaken patriotism and ambitious ideals of some of these people in whose soil are planted the germs of future greatness; and with the blessings of peace they must ultimately triumph and reap the rich harvest of good that awaits them.

Another dangerous weapon in this campaign of ignorance and slander is the ill-concealed attempt to convert the ' 'bogey" of the " big stick" into a reality. It is true that the existence of that instrument is implied rather than expressed, but, in many directions it is metaphorically flourished with resultant harm to the United States as well as to many of the other Republics. The effects of the aggressive spirit which dictates that implication of superior force may be seen in every phase of international life. In one case it is the banker, who, with xxvi THE TWO AMERICAS

a natural desire for the protection of his investment, unwittingly leads his Government to attach conditions to a contemplated loan, suggestive, to the sensitive Latin mind, of an encroachment upon the independence of the borrowing State. In another, it is the commercial traveller who approaches the Latin- American buyer in the belief that the latter is conscious of his inferiority and that he must yield, not to the blandishments, but to the political equipment of the would-be representative of " Uncle Sam," disporting the end of the "big stick" beneath the tails of his coat.

There are also other and very serious causes of the alienation of the confidence of the south in the good faith of the north, not least of which is the matter of the Panama Canal, in relation to the dismemberment of Colombian territory,, which I have dealt with, at some length, elsewhere in these pages. Personally, I have never failed to seize an occasion for the expression of my admiration of the high qualities and undoubted sense of justice of the great majority of the people of the United States. I believe, to the fullest extent, in the sincerity of their avowed desire for the fulfilment of the aspirations and for the welfare of all the Latin Eepublics ; but it must be remembered that in South America — not the America which cries "America for the North Americans," but in the America that heralds the sentiment of "America for humanity"

INTRODUCTION xxvii

— there are people who, guided by their civic spirit and their traditions, do not and will not submit to being treated as nations incapable of self-government, or as unfit, without guardians, to manage their own affairs.

In my opinion, the opening of the Panama Canal will solve many of the difficulties which have arisen through the present lack of intercourse between the people of North and South America, but even that beneficial change of conditions will not serve, by itself, to eradicate the evils of the past. That important event will doubtless produce a great inflow of immigration to the rich territories which will thus be opened up to myriads of human beings who will leave the congested countries of Europe to seek a new home and a more bountiful living in those lands of promise. But, there must be a more general acceptance of the fact that the relations of the United States with the Latin Eepublics are those of a friendly, powerful neighbor, with no other objects than the advantages to be gained from the ties of sisterhood and an extension of commerce. There must be saner propaganda as to the inalienable national independence of even the smallest of the Latin States. There must be no "big-stick"; and no such use of the Monroe Doctrine as to make it an instrument of terror to the smaller Eepublics and a subject for ridicule in the more progressive countries of the south. The great Republics of xxviii THE TWO AMERICAS

South America appreciate and sympathize with the benevolent designs and objects of that doctrine which has been supplemented by a doctrine of their own, to protect the weaker States against the employment of armed force by foreign nations for the collection of contractual debts; but they resent the demonstration of the domination and tutelage which imply that they need the protection of the United States against foreign aggression.