Fruits and vegetables under glass

Foreword

FOREWORD

A FEW years ago I contributed some articles on iruit culture under glass to The Florists' Exchange. These were very favorably received, and it was even suggested to me that I should collect all my material on this subject and put it into book form. But at that time I realized that I still lacked experience in many of the details of that pursuit which were absolutely necessary to the successful culture of the several fruits it is possible and profitable to raise under glass.

The encouragement I then received has, however, induced me at this later time, and after more extended experience, to now attempt to carry out an undertaking which, even well into its beginning, seemed a Herculean task. But, strange to say, as I began to make progress the more deeply I became interested. It was to me a relaxation from other duties, and I have found the preparation of the subject matter very companionable. Progress has been slow, as the writing could be done at night only, after the more pressing duties of the day had received

attention.

There are many well-known fruit growers throughout this country who raise excellent crops and who are thoroughly familiar with the art of bringing fruit under glass to the highest state of perfection; such men need no instruction from me. My sole motive in publishing this work is to give information to the less fortunate of my brethren, those who have not had the opportunity to learn all the details necessary to the successful cultivation of all kinds ot indoor fruit.

If this book will prove of assistance to the inexperienced and to the beginner to the extent of imparting new life and energy to this important branch of our profession, I shall feel repaid a hundredfold for the time and labor it has cost me. I know there is a great and growing field for this work, and I would say to all gardeners (young and old), located in establishments where there is glass to any extent but no fruit: Introduce some pot fruit, but grow it well; it may be the means of adding a fruit range to the establishment. There is no better spender in the world than the American employer, provided that returns are in sight, namely, fruit of a higher grade than can be produced or obtained in the open market.

I have endeavored to discard theory and to give nothing but solid facts and information which, I may say, it has taken me many years of close experience to collect and apply. But I now feel sure of my ground— for the greater part of my life has been spent among hothouse fruit. I do not take any credit to myself for \\ hatcver knowledge 1 nia\ liavc gained in liic course ol tiiis inirsuit; rather would 1 call it my good fortune to have been kept in einsc toucii with fruit forcing for so many years.

It has also been my privilege to work under liberal employers. This has been of great advantage in enabling me to gain valuable information in the way of testing many new fruits w hich have been brought to my notice.

I have tried to present all my facts in such a way that those who follow closely the methods here detailed, and which 1 ha\c found successful, can achieve similar results.

Do not hesitate on the plea of inexperience. Plunge fearlessly (using your good common sense, be it understood) into this new line of work and success will lollow. Growing fruits and \egetablcs out of season is a fascinating occupation, and time flies all too fast when we become interested in that pursuit.

I ha\e been waiting for several years in the hope that some man better qualified than I am would come forward to discuss this important subject with a more fluent pen. It will be noticed that my method of culture \aries slightly from that recommencled by European writers on the subiect, particularly during the Summer, w hen it is advisable to give more air to the plants, especiall\' when dispensing with artificial heat, for at this season too close an atmosphere encourages mildew and kindred diseases. I ha\e endea\ored to explain all details so far as my knowledge and experience enabled me to do so.

My aim from beginning to end has been to present cultural inlormation so plainly that any grower may, w-ithout previous experience, follow my instructions with an assurance of reasonable success. I also extend my sincere thanks to the Lord & Burnham Company lor courtesies shown in furnishing me with diagrams for fruithouse construction, 'etc., also for tlie photograph of pot Grape vine in fruit, which I appreciate highly. The other photographs 1 myself ha\e taken. And last, but not least, my thanks and sincere appreciation are due to A. T. De La Mare, president of the A. T. De La Mare Printing and Publishing Company, Ltd., for his kindly assistance in bringing my manuscript into presentable form.

\\\L TURNER.

Oceanic, N. J., 1912.

[Situated similarly to Mr. 1 uriier, and in the midst of more than ordinarily pressing duties, some delay since the receipt of Mr. Turner's manuscript has been occasioned in the presentation of this book, for which I hereby offer my apologies. Advantage was taken of a recent vacation, made necessary as a respite from overwork, to take up the preparation of Mr. Turner's manuscript. It has been a pleasant and a fascinating task, with my thoughts constantly dwelling on the author's juicy, luscious fruits. — A. T. D.]

Contents

CONTENTS

FRUITS UNDER GLASS

Chapter Page

Chapter I History Of The Grape Vine

IN telling the story of the Grape vine there is nothing new to recount; it belongs to ancient history. The Grape is mentioned in the early chapters of the Bible, from which we learn that it was held in high esteem by the peoples of antiquity as well as of later times, who prized not only the fruit itself but as well the wine extracted from it. According to the early writers, the vine, Vitis vinifera. was cultivated in Asia and Egypt, in Greece, Italy, and other parts of southern Europe, and later in France. It is even said that the Romans attempted its cultivation in Britain during their occupancy of that land, though with poor success. This shows that the warm air of Italy is better adapted to its successful cultivation than is the damp and moist climate of England.

Vineyards are mentioned by Bede (before 731 A. D.) as existing in several parts of Britain. Even the monasteries were not complete without their vineyards. More has probably been written concerning the Grape vine than of any other fruit. It is disappointing, however, in looking over the references to it, to find so few records of value as to its actual history. Take, for instance, the Muscat of Alexandria, one of the oldest known Grapes, and still without a peer when properly handled; how interesting it would be to know the true early history of such a magnificent fruit! Many varieties have been disseminated during the past three score years, yet, if I were asked to name the two best varieties of Grapes, I should unhesitatingly say Black Hamburg and Muscat of Alexandria. The latter variety has gone under many differing names, and so-called improved varieties have been tried in years gone by. Even the much discussed Canon Hall Muscat was thought, and not so long ago, to be an Improvement, and such it would undoubtedly have been but for the fact that it was almost impossible to secure from it a good set. Thus, this variety was weighed In the balance and found wanting. Strange to say, several of the leading varieties of cur Grapes of today were not recognized at their true value until some years after they were first tested or raised from seed. Foster's Seedling was originated about 1835, t)ut it was not grown to any extent until twenty-five years later; then, however, it became popular so quickly that it was found in nearly every establishment growing Grapes on any scale. Gros Maroc was introduced about 1855, from the vineyards of M. Vibert of Angers, but it remained comparatively unknown for a number of years and until T. F. Rivers received a

FRUITS AND XEGIITABLES UNDER GLASS

Grape Muscat of Amlxandkia

The finest ul :ill hothouse Grapes. Wherever :i white Grape is in demand, this noble variety should have prelerence over all others. Berries and bunches are large, with a rich Muscat flavor, bunches hanging on the vines a considerable time alter being ripe.

HISTORY OF THE GRAPE VINE 19

first-class certificate for an exhibit thereof from the Royal Horticultural Society of Great Britain; then its popularity became established; from that time on it has graced many an exhibition and often carried off the highest honors I'or black Grapes. While it has not an extra rich flavor, it is popular on account of its appearance, the size of the berry, its finish, and it is also an easy doer.

The same may be said of Gros Colman. The early history of this Grape is not very clear. Mr. Thomson of Scotland was the first to recognize the possibilities of this variety for growing on a large scale for the market. Thomson & Sons, Clovenfords, Scotland, have made their name known far and wide through their success with Gros Colman as a late-keeping Grape, and today more Grapes of this variety, for a late fruit, are probably grown than of any other.

Under favorable circumstances the vine will live to a great age. There are records of vines five hundred years old. The celebrated vine at Hampton Court, England, was planted in 1769 and is still bearing annually a large number of medium-sized bunches. This is proof sufficient that the Grape vine will reach a good old age provided it is well cared for.

It is only during the past fifty years or so that the Grape vine has occupied so much space under glass, and its cultivation today does not vary to any great extent from that practiced years ago. In my younger days I have seen some very old-fashioned graperies, where the vines were planted outside and brought in through crevices in the wall, there being no inside border at all. Good Grapes may be grown in this way for Midseason, but for early forcing or for late growth It is very unsatisfactory. However, going back twenty-five to thirty years, we find some magnificent specimens of Grapes, and we have records of bunches of great weight, such as Trebbiano, weighing 26 pounds; White Nice, 25 pounds; Gros Guillaume, commonly known as Barbarossa, 23 pounds; Black Hamburg, 21 pounds. Such record weights are surely of interest to look back upon, and we can truly say that the men who grew those bunches have left these records as a monument to their skill in the cultivation of Grapes under glass. Records equal to these will not easily be eclipsed.

n<l'lTS AND VEGETABLES UND1:K GLASS

Chapter II Houses Best Adapted For Growing Grapes

THE advances iikicIl in recent years in greenhouse construction is simply marvelous. A few years ago we thcught they had reached perfection and that it would be almost impossible to better them. But improvements ha\e continued since then, so that it now seems to me that the professional builder will have to exercise considerable ingenuity before he can improve upon existing types. We, as growers of forced fruits, appreciate the good work which has been done along these lines, and the growers throughout the country are fully aware of the benefits they have derived from this source. I may safely say that greenhouses, such as are now erected in America, have not their equal anywhere in the world for strength, durability, and light. The greenhouse constructor is surely the grower's best friend.

Fruit has been grown in different kinds of structures, ^'ears ago the leanto house was much in favor, and it is still very satisfactory for climates not subject to extremes of temperature, especially for early forcing, when facing south. In such a house the desired temperature is easily maintained. But when extremes of temperature have to be reckoned with the even span is the ideal house for fruit culture. Either a curvilinear or a straight roof may be adopted. One point in favor of the curvilinear root for private establishments is that it gives the range a neater appearance, in agreeable contrast to that of the commercial greenhouse. As to the width, a house 25 feet wide is just right, and it should certainly net exceed 30 feet. Let your fruithouses run, if possible, north and south. Complete ventilation must be provided, both for top and bottom, as free circulation of air is necessary both when ripening up the fruit and the wood. Admitting that the greenhouse constructor has reduced the building of these houses to a science, with a thorough understanding of all the requirements of an ideal fruithousc, I do not need to go into any details along these lines. Still, a word in regard to location will be permissible. Greater success is to be looked for b>' selecting an elevation rather than low ground. Where fruithouses are on low ground they need close attention, as the fruit in them ii" more subject to mildew and kindred diseases. The ideal range will be set on an elevation and protected Irom the north winds or, if there exists no natural protection, a planting can be made lor the purpiisc of furnishing a windbreak that will assume an adequate size in a few years.

As to heating, either steam or hot water may be used, but fruithouses are generally ec|uipped with a hut water s\stem; I, ni\self, decidedly prefer the

HOUSES BEST ADAPTED FOR GROWING GRAPES 21

latter. There is an attribute in connection with a hot water system which gives off a mild heat, whereas the steam seems harsh and fiery.

In installing the piping to give the desired temperature it is much I^etter to overpipe a house than to underpipe it, but this need not overheat the house, for, under most conditions, the desired temperature can be easily maintained.

EARLY GRAPERY 2 -5X3 3- 4"

MEDIUM GRAPERY 25X33-4"

LATE GRAPERY 25x33-4"

This represents the ground plan for three compartments, e/en span house, with slat walk in the center, for Grape forcing — rcarly, midseason and late — which, for ordinary private use, should be sufficient. Still, if desired, these compartments may be extended to any length according to demands, although I would not advocate having the grapery more than 25 feet in width. Then, by having the vines planted each side of the house, it will allow space, for training up the permanent rods on each side, of 24 or 25 feet, which is a sufficient length. Three compartments are absolutely necessary where a continuous supply is desired — say, from May 1st to January 1st. Neither would there be anything gained by having more, as this would be found to cover the season thoroughly. The same plan would be ideal for a Peach house, only have the walk around the sides instead of in the center, and plant the trees crossw ise of the house, using trellises for that purpose, about 6 feet apart.

FRUITS AND VEGILTABLES UNDER GLASS

Chapter III The Various Systems Of Propagation

Propagation by Layering — Propagation by Seed — Cross Fertilization — Propagation by Inarching — Propagation by Grafting

THE Grape vine may be easily propagated and, with tiie proper radiities at command, tliere will be very little trouble, as a rule, in raising young plants. There are different methods in vogue, such as by cuttings, layering and eyes.

Fruit experts have held for many years that the plants propagated from the eyes are the most satisfactory in every respect. It should be borne in mind, however, that in order to get the best results, it is absolutely necessary that the stock selected for this purpose be thoroughly ripened wood. Although the efl'ect of using unripe wood may not be evident when the young plants are first rooted, yet it will appear later. If two batches were put in at the same time, one with the wood thoroughly ripened and the other with unripened wood, both batches would probably root equallj' well, but the ripened wood, doubtless, would grow away from the other, and make much better plants before the end of the season. To the unobser\'ant the vines, when dormant, may all look ripe. Yet there is a wide difference. Some wood will cut pithy and soft, and this is very undesirable, while the wood that cuts hard, or almost like dried wood, is ideal stock for raising \igorous plants. This may seem a point of small importance; nevertheless, the very best is none too good for future purposes, and the end in \-iew should not be lost sight of.

The question has often been asked: When is the best time to propagate young vines? I should say from the middle to the end of January, and this for two reasons: in the first place, it gives one a good season in which to grow the canes; in the second place, by the time they are rooted, the days are somewhat longer, a circumstance which promotes the growth. Whereas, if the plants are started earlier, they run the lisk of having their growth checked during the dark days of Winter. The result would be a stunted cane onl\- lit for the rubbish pile.

As stated, select tlic most perfect, plump eyes, lea\lng about half an inch of wood on each side of the eye. A slight incision may be made on the side opposite the ej'e, a little below the bark; this, ho\ve\-er, is not necessary, for the wood will callus below the eye as the bud progresses, and the roots will follow. Where

THE VARIOUS SYSTEMS OF PROPAGATION

Grape Gros Colman This picture represents the Grapes growing naturally on the vine.

a large quantity of vines is to be raised From eyes, these niav Ix- laid in Hats, a couple of inches apart, iirst half filling the Hat with soil; then a coat of sharp sand is spread on top and the eyes are pressed down until the bud is level with the sand. This method economizes space, but it has one serious drawback in that the vines are disturbed after they have started to root; as well, the first roots made by the vines are not fibrous, but straight and smooth and very easily broken.

The most successful \\a>-, and the one to be recommended, is the following: Take 3-inch pots, (ill them partly with broken sod and spread about one inch of sand on top. Insert one eye in each pot, pressing the eve down into the sand until the bud is lc\el with the sand. These pots may be put into the propagating house where there is bottom heat of about 75°, with about -o'' top. setting tliem in some material that will prevent their drying out too often. They must Ix- kept moist all the time, but do not saturate them. The most critical time, or the danger point, is just as the bud is beginning to leaf out. Too much water lodging around at this period is apt to cause decay. But, after the root action becomes good, there is less danger. As the pots get fairly well filled with roots, a shift is in order into 5-inch pots, still using bottom heat for a time.

When the weather gets warmer the plants may be removed from the bottom heat and grown through the Summer months in a moist, even temperature; about 80° by day and 70° by night is the ideal temperature for them. If e\'erything has gone well they should be good, strong canes in g-inch pots by the Fall, making good material for planting into the borders for fruiting, either in the Fall or in the following Spring, as will be explained later.

PROPAGATION BY LAYERING

I have seen excellent results obtained by merely rooting young vines and planting them at once in the Grape border at the proper distance for fruiting canes. Through this method, very strong, vigorous canes were grown the same season. I think, however, that better success is likely to be obtained by growing the canes in pots for one season, for in selecting one-year canes, one would naturally desire to have them of uniform size, whereas, if the newly rooted green vines are planted, some may grow away more vigorously than others, thus giving the canes a somewhat uneven appearance.

PROPAGATION BY INARCHING

Inarching is worthy of mention. In a grapery containing vines which are strong and healthy although of an undesirable variety, it is an easy operation to inarch other varieties thereon. The most feasible way in which to carr\- out this work is to raise the varieties desired in pots and to inarch them on the varieties to be discarded when large enough. Well grown one-year canes will answer the purpose. When starting up a grapery with the view to inarching, the stock destined for this operation may be brought into the same house a

THE VARIOUS SYSTEMS OF PROPAGATION

Grape Gros Maroc

A black vinous Grape, producing handsome bunches with extremely large berries, finest Grapes in appearance, but somewhat deficient in flavor.

One of our

26 IKLirS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS

week or ten days later. If the pots are JDrought in at the time when the house is started they are very liable to begin to grow before the vines which are planted in the border. This is due to the fact that the one batch has its roots down in the cool earth, whereas the plants in the pots are in a congenial, warm atmosphere. When the young growth is about a foot long, or, at least, while the wood is still solt, select one of the side shoots, as near the bottom of the old cane as possible, bring the green shoot of the cion down to the growing shoot of the stock; befoie uniting them make a slight cut on each shoot a trifle deeper than the bark, where the two shoots will be joined and tie the two together, as in grafting. Try to ha\e both shoots of about the same size. As soon as the cion has united with the stock, begin to cut it away from its own roots, and keep the stock pinched back by degrees so as to give strength and vigor to the cion. When the latter has been I ally started it usually grows very fast.

PROPAGATION B^' GRAFTING

Vines also ma>' be grafted, but this is a rather dilTicult operation on aecoLint of their nature. If grafted when the vine is dormant no union will take place, The most favorable time for this operation is after the first flow of sap has passed, or about the time when the vines are in bloom. However, I need not go into the details of this subject, as vines are not grafted to any extent now.

PROPAGATION BY SEED— CROSS-FERTILIZATION

Propagation by seed is worthy of notice, although thi- method is seldom resorted to since the vine is easily increased otherwise by propagation. While we have some excellent material for the early and Midsummer varieties, our late-keeping ^'arieties lea\'e, unfortunately, much to be desired; they lack that rich Muscat fla\or demanded of a first-class Grape. What an achie\ement it would be could we but infuse some of the Muscat blood into our vinous and Sweetwater varieties, and still preserve the keeping qualities of a Gros Colman or a Barbarossa! But it seems, unfortunately, that when a seedling with a distinct Muscat flavor is raised there always accompanies it a thin skin and poor keeping qualities for late ufe. As an instance of this character, note Madresfield Court, one of the finest of all the black Muscats. This noble variety was obtained by crossing Muscat of Alexandria with Black Morocco; it derived \V: color from the vinous variety Morocco and its rich flavor from the Muscat.

The sole purpose of raising vines from seed is to obtain new or improxed varieties. But if seed is taken at haphazard the chances for any real progress are slight. The variety would probably only reproduce itself or, more than likely, would degenerate. The object to be attained is through cross-fertilization and close attention is required to handle this operation successfully. When the cap is thrown off and the anthers are exposed to the light and air, then, if Nature is allowed to do her work, self-fertilization will be accomplished in a short time. To cross fertilize one variety with another, means must be taken in advance of the natural development so that self-fertilization cannot be effected. To overcome this, select, a day or so previous to the opening of the first flowers.

THE VARIOUS SYSTEMS OF PROPAGATION 27

the bunch in which is intended to be the female or seed-bearing parent. Cut away or thin down to, say, a couple of dozen flowers, then protect this bunch against the attacks of insects, which may be accomplished by using a thin mushn bag. It will be necessary to examine these flowers closely. Just before the cap is ready to be thrown off, remove it with a pair of fine-pointed scissors and mimediately cut away the stamens. This is an operation requiring care and patience. When the stamens are cut oflF, the pollen of the sort selected for the male parent can be apphed. Experimenters will have theii own preferences as to the choice of a male parent. The pollen should be applied with a very small camel's hair brush to the stigma of the prepared flower. As a precaution against any other pollen coming in contact with the bunch under operation it would be well to enclose the flowers operated upon in a loose muslin bag. This process will probably have to be repeated several times, or until the entire bunch or all the flowers have been fertilized. When the berries are set, remove the muslin bag.

Hybridizers have their own pets to select from for the seed-bearing plant. A fairly safe guide to follow, which holds good for all other kinds of reproduction, is to select a plant of vigorous constitution for the seed bearer. An ideal seed bearer would be a good Muscat-flavored Grape, with the constitution of Gros Maroc or an Alicante. The hybridizer who succeeds along these lines will leave a name behind him. While advocating this operation, I realize that it is a slow and uncertain one. Yet there is pleasure and excitement in watching the development of a tiny seedling. We know we have succeeded in raising a seedling, but what will it turn out to he? And it is the uncertainty in the raising of seedlings of flower or of fruit which stimulates our interest and excitement.

Raising Grapes from seed is a somewhat tedious procees, and for that reason comparatively little hybridizing is being done. It takes two to three years from the time that the seed is sown until you may reap your reward or giieve over your failuie if the plant does not fulfill your expectations. There has been many a rejoicing over successful introductions, and also much disappointment over plants that did not come up to the standard set. The thing to do is to take the issues as they come, and to swallow the bitter with the sweet, although the bitter may be hard to digest at times.

If you have decided to try your luck in raising seedling Grapes it would be well to devote a small house to that purpose, for, if the seedlings are set out in a border the second season, they make better headway and in fact cause less trouble than if kept in pots. It is not advisable tc keep the Grape seed any length of time before sowing, as it does not hold its germinating power as long as manv other seeds do. But Giapes are readily raised from seed and do not take very long to come up, especially where thev have bottom heat. The best time for planting is near the end of January. Sow the seed thinly in a small flat or pan. When the young plants have become large enough to handle transfer them to small pots and keep them growing in a moist, even temperature. Repot them during the season when necessary. It is poor policy to allow them to become potbound. If everything goes well the first season they will probably fruit the third season. If you give your seedlings the best of treatment and meet with fair success the fruit will repay you for your labor by its quality and abundance.

FRUITS AND VEGETABI.F.S UNDER GLASS

Grape Black IIamblko

A bl:ick Sweetwater Grape, excellent for early forcing or midseason, but not desirable for late keeping. One of the most useful black Grapes in cultivation.

Chapter IV

Draining a Border — Fertilizer for the Border — Watering — Root Action

THERE has been much discussion in the last few years as to the correct construction of bordeis, and this certainly is a subject requiring careful consideration and good judgment, for on it depends the success or failure of the undertaking. We know from long experience that excellent Grapes have been grown from outside borders only. These have, howe^'er, been discarded for years in favor of a combination border, that is, a border both inside and outside. So far, especially here in the United States, the inside border has been generally used on account of the great advantages it presents. In a private establishment it gives the surroundings a much neater appearance by doing away with the unsightly outside grapery border. Still, I have no desire to discredit the outside border, but it is not necessary to make it as wide as is oftentimes done; a width of eight feet is quite sufficient, and such a structure could easily be protected against the inclemencies of the Winter through the use of a layer of leaves one foot thick, with a sprinkling of coarse manure on top to keep the leaves from blowing away. Leaves are one of the best protections against frost and a sure means of preventing the freezing of the soil.