The Umbrian towns

Preface

THE compilers of the following pages deeply regret that Mr Grant Allen, who planned this series of Guide- Books, should not have lived to develop his ideas under his own hand. They had the privilege of seeing him at work upon the Guide to Venice, and had some opportunity of recognising the brilliant powers of observation, and the masterly skill in clear and simple exposition which he brought to bear upon the subject. Although they have been able only very imperfectly to appreciate and follow his example, they think it may be for the convenience of readers to summarise the aims originally in view.

The book is not intended to take the place of such guides as those of Baedeker or Murray. It does not give information about the details of travel, nor does it notice all monuments irrespective of their merit or interest. In dealing with collections, the object has not been to furnish a catalogue, but to indicate the matters of essential interest, and, so far as is possible, to suggest the reason for this interest. An attempt has been made to give just enough historical tradition to enable the traveller to create for himself an atmosphere suitable to the objects which he is engaged in studying, and sufficiently detailed to suggest the place which they take in the general development of human interests.

Two points of view present themselves in regard to all that we see — the manner of the doing of the thing, and the object with which it has been done. The one is the point of view of the artist ; the other that of^the student of human nature. An endeavour has been made to appreciate the monuments from both points of view.

It has been thought to be most courteous to those who vi PREFACE

use this book to express opinions quite frankly ; but no authority is claimed, and particularly where the sphere of the experts may have been trespassed on, nothing more is intended than a suggestion for the traveller, to be used as a starting-point for his own observations.

An attempt has been made to note sources of information and opportunities for observation which exist in this country. In the National Gallery and at South Kensington much may be done to prepare the way for enjoying foreign travel. Lists of books have been given which deal with the objects the traveller is most likely to have in view. References also have been inserted to the collections of Italian photographs that have done so much for students, and also to the copies of paintings now in the National Gallery, from which the reproductions of the Arundel Society were made. A collection of photographs of the most important objects can be easily obtained from London agents, or direct from the dealers in Italy, and if these are studied before the journey is made, they will be found to add to the significance and the interest of travelling. The compilers are conscious that errors and misconceptions will be found, and they will value the corrections which fellow-students and travellers may be able to send them, to the care of the publisher.

They desire also to express their acknowledgment of the assistance they have received from Miss Katharine Wilson, who accompanied them upon the journey. In the work of observation as well as of revision, they are greatly indebted to her helpful insight.

It has been said above that there is no intention to give information about the detail of travel, but as the question of accommodation is more difficult in the smaller towns with which this volume deals than in larger places such as Florence and Rome, it has been thought best to add a note on hotels. In Perugia the Hotel Brufani gives accommodation of the best kind, and such as is suitable to all Englishspeaking travellers. In Assisi the hotels have been adapted to most of the requirements of modern times* In Spoleto

PREFACE vii

and Orvieto the hotels are Italian in character, but the proprietors are quite alive to the wants of foreign visitors. They are most anxious to do all they can, and the most cafeful attention may be relied upon. At Gubbio the hotel is primitive in character, but the same goodwill and desire to be useful will be found to exist.

HOW TO USE THESE GUIDE- BOOKS

rHE portions of this book intended to be read at leisure at home before proceeding to explore each town or monument are enclosed in brackets \thus\ . The portion relating to each principal object should be quietly read and digested before a visit, and referred to again afterwards. The portion to be read on the spot is made as brief as possible, and is printed in large legible type so as to be easily read in the dim light of churches, chapels, and galleries. The key-note words are printed in bold type to catch the eye. Where objects are numbered the numbers used are always those of the latest official catalogues.

See little at a time, and see it thoroughly. Never attempt to " do " any place or monument. Individual works of exceptional merit are distinguished by an asterisk, and when any work of art has been unusually stimulating, it is an advantage to buy a photograph for comparison with the artist's work elsewhere or with analogous monuments in other places. Nothing is noticed in this book which does not seem to have some character rendering it worthy of attention, for its own sake, or for comparison with other works of art.

These guides do not profess to supply practical information.

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