New trails in Mexico; an account of one year's exploration in north-western Sonora, Mexico, and south-western Arizona 1909-1940

Front matter

A'

'P

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Preface

During the years 1909 and 1910 I was commissioned by some influential friends to look into certain economical possibilities of the arid and httle known country along the upper part of the Gulf of California, east of the Colorado River. My field embraced most of the District of Altar, in the State of Sonora, Mexico, as well as the southern part of the newly admitted State of Arizona; in other words, the region which by the early Spanish chroniclers was designated as Papagueria, after the native inhabitants, the Papago Indians. Some of this country, being the least accessible part of the Sonora Desert, is singularly little known, though lying, so to speak, at the door of the great empire of Yankee enterprise. My mission gave me an opportunity for geographical and ethnological studies, an account of which is here presented in popular form. For this opportunity I am grateful to my friends.

Among my predecessors in exploration of the Papagueria should be mentioned Prof. W. J. McGee, well known from his studies of the Seri Indians, lower down the Gulf. In the nineties he made journeys through parts of this region and he has published interesting accounts of the desert and its natives. In November, 1908, viii PREFACE

Drs. D. T. MacDougal and W. T. Hornaday made a month's trip from Tucson, Arizona, to the Pinacate region, both publishing descriptions which were accompanied by maps by Mr. Godfrey Sykes. These gentlemen, according to their own reports, had no opportunities for extensive explorations of the Papagueria, which I found of such interest that my expedition occupied me over a year. The extreme western part of this region, the sandy country between Pinacate and the Colorado River, so far as my knowledge goes, had not before been investigated. The travels here of the Jesuit fathers during the seventeenth century did not extend much south of the present Mexican boundary. Some of that country probably had not before ever been visited by a white man, and I have therefore described that part of my journey in greater detail, thinking that an accurate account may prove of value and even of practical interest.

This region, no doubt, recently had a less arid climate, with much greater rainfall than at the present time. It seems impossible to explain otherwise the recent great accumulation of detritus at Sonoita, at the origin of the little river of the same name, or the marked effect of the action of the water on the hard rocks of Tinaja de los Papagos. That country is a desert, on account of the scarcity of rain, but the soil is in places extremely fertile and I doubt not that through human agency large parts of it will some day delight the eye with waving fields of grain and orchards of fruit.

Although most of that arid region will always remain suitable only for cattle and horse raising, still there is

PREFACE ix

more of it than people realize which can be brought under cultivation. I may mention the extensive valley which, south of the Mexican boundary line, runs east and west, passing beyond Sonoita, the great plains north-east and south-east of Pinacate, as well as the middle course in most of the flat valleys; for instance, many of those between the Gila range and the ranges following as far east almost as Silver Bell, extending in the west as far north as the Gila River. The problem of water is bound to be solved at some future time, as soon as the necessity arises. Water may be found at a depth of from fifty to a hundred feet, but at most places one would have to go several hundred feet down. Judging from the extraordinary springs I encountered on the shore of the salt deposit, Salina Grande, near the coast, there must be a large sheet of fresh water underneath most of that western coastal desert. This inference seems to be confirmed by the flow of water which was found in digging the well, near Horseshoe in the Quijotoa Range.

The mineral prospects of the region, especially as regards gold, are great. There are numerous large veins south of Sonoita which should be examined and the mountains of the western desert explored. Free gold which undoubtedly has been encountered in the malpais in the northern part of Pinacate should also be followed up.

The extraordinary adaptation to arid conditions of plant and animal life, even the domesticated animals of Indians and Mexicans subsisting without difficulty for months without water, cannot help but interest the observer. With the exception of the Seri and Pima Indians

X PREFACE

the natives of the desert have so far received little attention from those engaged in the study of primitive races. The Papagoes are the great desert people of America and are remarkably stable in their racial characteristics, still preserving traditions and habits of the past which will soon disappear. There are also ancient remains left since the occupancy of that same country by people who had a higher state of development than the present-day Indians. Original documents relating to the history of the region are not always of easy access, and I have not had an opportunity of consulting them.

In spite of excessive heat in the summer the nights are always cool, and the climate is salubrious and even invigorating. During three months in the spring I travelled without wearing a hat, which made me feel comfortable and actually cooler. The one drawback to a journey in those regions is, of course, the want of water, and, because of this, caution is necessary, but this need not interfere with the enjoyment of the freedom of the wilds. I can understand the expression of an enthusiastic person who for the first time felt the charm of the desert: "I am drunk with out-of-doors!" When I, in the easy surroundings of civilized life, read my notes from the field, it sometimes occurs to me that this or that which I went through was well done; but what in civilization appears as hardship, privation, or risk amounts to little when actually happening, even if one is, as the Irishman said, *'a thousand miles from home and fifty miles from any place."

To the lover of nature in all aspects, this land of "si-

PREFACE xi

lence, solitude, and sunshine" cannot help but present a strong fascination. The wonderful colors of the late afternoon, the glorious sunsets, the peace and calm of night, the thrill that accompanies the early dawn of the morning are sources of constant delight to the traveller. Besides, an expedition of this kind directs one's thoughts into other channels than those of the ordinary humdrum of life. The starlit sky, under which one sleeps with impunity, invites imagination to take flight Into the infinite universe, and one has time to reflect on the beauty of existence and the grandeur of nature, a pleasure which is denied to most dwellers in cities.

During my travels I used an Army Sketching Case, designed and patented by Glenn T. Smith, topographer. United States Geological Survey, and I collected besides a large amount of data of geographical Importance. Of the region traversed by me a considerable portion appears on the hitherto published maps as blank space. The International Boundary Commission, which takes in generally from two and a half to three miles on each side of the boundary. West of Meridian iii, west of Greenwich, and south of Parallel ^^ only one topographical sheet, that of Yuma, has been published by the United States Geological Survey.

In making the map herewith presented, as a base for starting, the Atlas sheets of the International Boundary Commission have been used. In Arizona the word "range" has been employed as a synonym for the Spanish sierra. This is generally in conformity with the usage of the South-west.

X PREFACE

the natives of the desert have so far received little attention from those engaged in the study of primitive races. The Papagoes are the great desert people of America and are remarkably stable in their racial characteristics, still preserving traditions and habits of the past which will soon disappear. There are also ancient remains left since the occupancy of that same country by people who had a higher state of development than the present-day Indians. Original documents relating to the history of the region are not always of easy access, and I have not had an opportunity of consulting them.

In spite of excessive heat in the summer the nights are always cool, and the climate is salubrious and even invigorating. During three months in the spring I travelled without wearing a hat, which made me feel comfortable and actually cooler. The one drawback to a journey in those regions is, of course, the want of water, and, because of this, caution is necessary, but this need not interfere with the enjoyment of the freedom of the wilds. I can understand the expression of an enthusiastic person who for the first time felt the charm of the desert: "I am drunk with out-of-doors!" When I, in the easy surroundings of civilized life, read my notes from the field, it sometimes occurs to me that this or that which I went through was well done; but what in civilization appears as hardship, privation, or risk amounts to little when actually happening, even if one is, as the Irishman said, *'a thousand miles from home and fifty miles from any place."

To the lover of nature in all aspects, this land of "si-

PREFACE xi

lence, solitude, and sunshine" cannot help but present a strong fascination. The wonderful colors of the late afternoon, the glorious sunsets, the peace and calm of night, the thrill that accompanies the early dawn of the morning are sources of constant delight to the traveller. Besides, an expedition of this kind directs one's thoughts into other channels than those of the ordinary humdrum of life. The starlit sky, under which one sleeps with impunity, invites imagination to take flight into the infinite universe, and one has time to reflect on the beauty of existence and the grandeur of nature, a pleasure which is denied to most dwellers in cities.

During my travels I used an Army Sketching Case, designed and patented by Glenn T. Smith, topographer. United States Geological Survey, and I collected besides a large amount of data of geographical importance. Of the region traversed by me a considerable portion appears on the hitherto pubKshed maps as blank space. The International Boundary Commission, which takes in generally from two and a half to three miles on each side of the boundary. West of Meridian iii, west of Greenwich, and south of Parallel ^^ only one topographical sheet, that of Yuma, has been published by the United States Geological Survey.

In making the map herewith presented, as a base for starting, the Atlas sheets of the International Boundary Commission have been used. In Arizona the word "range" has been employed as a synonym for the Spanish sierra. This is generally in conformity with the usage of the South-west.

xii PREFACE

The following maps and authorities were consulted:

1. Report of the International Boundary Commission,

1891-1896.

2. United States Geological Survey.

3. Gulf of California, original surve}^ by U. S. S.

Narragansett, 1 873-1 875, the Hydrographic Office, United States Navy Department, Washington, District of Columbia.

4. General Land Office Map, Department of the In-

terior, 1909.

5. Pima County, by George J. Roskruge, 1893. While the accompanying map has been made with

all possible care and after taking into account all obtainable material, it naturally does not claim absolute accuracy. The task of preparing a map approaching perfection would require as many years as I had months at my disposal.

I desire to express to Mr. A. Briesemeister, of the American Museum of Natural History, who drew the two maps, my appreciation of his painstaking and skilful work. Sr. Y. Bonillas, mining engineer and surveyor in Nogales, kindly assisted in giving the location of certain places, and to his son, Sr. Y. S. Bonillas, of the Instituto Geologico de Mexico, I owe valuable topographical information in regard to the Pinacate region. I am indebted to Mr. G. Sykes for a tracing of the mouth of the Colorado River, 1907, although I disagree with him in his estimate of the extent of the Santa Clara Slough.

The photographs have with few exceptions been taken by myself. I had with me three cameras, all of the so-

PREFACE xiii

called Kodak type, made by the Eastman Company, Rochester, New York. The largest carried ^ x y films; the other two were Folding Pocket Kodaks, all provided with high-grade lenses. The photograph of the little elf owl, reproduced at page i8, was presented to me by Mr. Herbert Brown, of Tucson, and that of the row of curlews, at page 256, by Mr. Warburton Pike, of British Columbia. The photograph of Casa Grande, which appears on the map of the Papagueria, I owe to the courtesy of the Bureau of American Ethnology. The photograph of the YaquI chiefs, as well as that of the donkeys bringing bat guano, were taken by a Hermosillo photographer. The clowns and Pablo I had taken In Tucson.

Mr. Marlus Dahlgren, my able friend of Tucson, kindly contributed the painting of sunset in the desert, reproduced as frontispiece. Miss Gladys Batchelder Greene was good enough to transcribe the two native songs. The two colored illustrations are by Mr. R. Weber, and the drawings of native Implements were made by Mr. W. Baake, after objects collected during the expedition.

The comparative vocabulary, published by the Smithsonian Institution, has been used as a basis for the short vocabularies of Appendix I.

To my good friend, Hon. Franklin MacVeagh, Secretary of the United States Treasury, I am indebted for the official courtesy which he, through the State Department, secured on my behalf in Mexico.

I wish to express my grateful acknowledgment to the xlv PREFACE

Mexican Government for removing all custom duties for my expedition and for continuing In other ways the pleasant relations of former years.

For the identification of the several plants referred to in the book as well as for valuable information on botanical subjects I am under great obligation to Dr. B. L. Robinson, Curator of the Gray Herbarium, Harvard University. Dr. J. A. Allen, Mr. Frank M. Chapman, and Mr. W. Beutenmiiller, of the American Museum of Natural History, New York, have identified certain mammals, birds, and insects. Mr. Samuel Henshaw, of the Museum of Comparative Zoology, Harvard University, has Identified various Insects. In regard to mineraloglcal and geological specimens I have consulted with Dr. C. P. Berkey, of Columbia University; Mr. L. P. Gratacap and Dr. E. O. Hovey, of the American Museum of Natural History, as well as with Prof. Cyrus F. Tolman, of Arizona University, who for ten days accompanied me on the expedition near Magdalena, and who has contributed a sketch of the geological formation of the Papagueria, presented as Appendix HI. Mr. Nathan Banks, Mr. Barton A. Bean, Dr. J. N. Rose, and Dr. Leonard Stejneger, of the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, have further contributed toward the identification of certain specimens of natural history.

Carl Lumholtz

New York, 19 12

Chapter I Page

Westward Bound — Civilization in the West — Tucson Past and Present — Visit to San Xavier Del Bac — The Papago Indian Reservation — Ancient Fortifications — Native Cemeteries — Antiquities — Courtship of the Night Hawks . . I

CHAPTER H

The Papagueria — Its Natural Features — Sierras and Llanos — Small Rainfall — High Temperature — Remarkable Adaptation of Plant Life — Fauna — The Papago, the Great People of the Desert — First Encounter with the Whites — Present Conditions 1 6

Chapter III

An Expedition into Southern Arizona — My Companion — The Range of Baboquivari — Fresnal — Papago Manner of Curing Disease — ^At the Boundary — An Unusual Religious Commotion — Visit to a Sacred Cave — Indian Oasis . 30

Chapter IV

Tne Giant Cactus or Sahuaro — The Sahuaro Feast at Noria — Dancing and Singing — The Medicine Lodge — Tobacco — Well Received — Dissertations with the Indians — An Adventure — An Ancient Festival — Native Oratory — Objection to Photography — Artistic Gifts of a Native ... 45

Chapter V

Comobabi — An Attractive Indian Family — Marianita — A Horned Lizard that Spurts Blood through the Eye — An Aboriginal Way of Recording Events — ^The Papago Calendar — Harvesting Sahuaro — How to Keep Comfortable in Great Heat — ^A Visit to Chief Alvina ...... 65

XV xx-i CONTEXTS

Chapter VI Page

Horseshoe in the Quijotoa Range — Indians as Miners — Spending a Night under Difficulties — Delightful Natives — A Woman's Game — Santa Rosa Rancheria — The Great Harvest Feast of Santa Rosa S2

Chapter VII

Visit to a Ver>- Sacred Place — The Children's Sacrifice — A Meeting with an Important Personage — ^Anekam — Primitive Natives — I Arrive among the Kohatk People — A Wet Night — Return to Santa Rosa 99

CH-\PTER VIII

Scorpions — A Storm in the Desert — How the Sahuaro Wine Is Made — The Sahuaro Feast at Santa Rosa — ^A Great Rendezvous — Social Amusements of the Papago — Success at Collecting Specimens — Stuck in the Mud — W onderful Change in the Landscape — ^.\ \ aluable \ egetable — Parting with Pablo Il6

CRAPTER IX

In Magdalena, Mexico — The State of Sonora — The Yaqui Indians — ^An Attack of Dysentery- — Trincheras, the Remarkable .\ncient Fortiiicarions — ^Antiquities of the Papagueria — .Alrar — Caborca — I Scart \\ est^ard — Placer Mines — The Choya — Its Terrible Spines — Irs Great L tilit^- — Catde X^Tiich Are without Water for Months . • 1 34

CIL\PTER X

Adventure with a Coyote — Unusual .\fterglow — A Meteor — A Great and Fertile Valley — The Custom of Xidri — La Nariz — ^The Papagoes of Quitovac . , , , . . . . 1 56

CONTENTS xvii

CHAPTER XI

Sonoita, an Oasis of the Desert — Its Pleasant Population — Lessons of the Sonoita River — .Antiquities — A Lunar Rainbo'vv — Primitive Gold Mining — Prevalence of Hydrophobia — Unusual Refraction of Sunlight 1 74

CHAPTER XII

Areas of Vegetation — Fitting Out an Expedition under Di5.- culties — An Old Medicine-Man Enrolled as a Member — Guadalupe Io7

CHAPTER XIII

The Old Caborca-Yuma Trail — Quitovaquita. the Place of Small Springs — Old Camping Places — Pinacate and Legends Connected vrirh It — Discover;,- of Vv ater — Our First Mountain-Sheep — \ isit to a Sacred Cave — Ascent of the Peak — Winter Weather — Crater Elegante — Travel at Night 196

CHAPTER XIV

Changing Camp — Mountain-Sheep — The Lseful Grr-;e~::i — Palo Fierro, the Friendly Desert Tree — L:: ^>ll:i :.■■.::. the Great Sand Dunes — Unusual Tracks — Abandoned Indian Camps — New Sierras — La Tinaja de Los Papagos — Visit to a Crater 217

CHAPTER X\'

Westward — Looking Back toward Pinacate — Tinajas Altas — Its Dismal Memories — Sunshine and Moonlight of the Early Morning — El Capitan — Laguna Prieta,, a ii!: Like — ^A Long Wait for V. ater — How Fresh "V\ ater Apreirs among Bulrushes — Approaching the Colorado River — Colonia Lerdo — The Indians at the Lower Part of the Great River Z}^^ xviil CONTENTS

CHAPTER XVI

PAGE

Travelling along the Gulf of California — Delightful Climate — Killing a Porpoise — Fishing — Fresh Water on the Beach — Unattractive Drinking Water — Fine Views — A Great Salt Deposit — Extraordinar}^ Occurrence of Springs — Hard Travel — The Papago Salt Expeditions — Worship of the Sea 254

CHAPTER XVn

A Peaceful Day — Tragedy in the Wilderness — Our Animals Beginning to Give In — A Promising Soda Deposit — ^Last Camp on the Beach — Among the Sand Dunes — Sierra Blanca — The Mouth of the Sonoita River — El Charco — Pronghorn Antelopes — Meeting with Indians — Return to Sonoita 274

CHAPTER XVIII

New Expedition Westward — Growler Well — A Hardy Old Papago — Disagreeable Experience with a Mexican of My Party — A Valuable New Member — Papago Loyalty — Pronghorn Antelope Again — Mountain-Sheep Inside of a Crater — I Leave My Main Camp — My Two Companions — Risks Taken by the Prospector — Deceptive Atmosphere — Our Guiding Star — Reading Tracks — Solitude — Beauty of the Desert 289

CHAPTER XIX

I Overtake My Men — Again at Tinajas Altas — Progress under Difficulties — Exploring in Los Medanos — Astonishing Display of Flowers — Picturesque Camp on the Dunes — I Lose My Riding Mule — Sierra Del Rosario — Travel at Night— The Wonderful" Root of the Sands" 308

CHAPTER XX

Return to Tinajas Altas — Evasive Travellers — An "Oldtimer" — The Cabeza Prieta Mountains — Vague Notions of Property — The Pools of Cabeza Prieta — A Rainy Day — I Reach My Main Camp — The Advantage of Travel with Donkeys — My Indian Companions — The Sand People . 320

CONTENTS xix

CHAPTER XXI

PAGE

An Indian Hermit — Aboriginal Cooking — Again in Sonoita — Ancient Village Sites Around the Altar River — A Remedy for Snake Bites— I Arrive at Ajo, Arizona— Gila Bend Reservation — An Ancient Fortress — The Maricopa Indians — The Ways of Civilization — The Pima Indians — Casa Grande — Its Builders — Return to Civilization . . 333

CHAPTER XXII

Physical and Mental Characteristics of the Pap ago— Effects of Contact with White Man — Marital Relations— Woman's High Position — Industries — Divisions of the Tribe — Religion and Myths — Races and Games — Fights with Apaches — Sham Battles — Present Conditions and Prospects of the Papago 'jaa

APPENDICES

I — Short Vocabularies from the Languages of the Papago,

Pima, and Cocopa Indians 368

II — Rancherias, Present and Past, of the Papago, with Interpretations of Their Native Name 277

III — Geological Sketch of the Papagueria 308

INDEX 401

ILLUSTRATIONS

At Sunset: Santa Catalina Mountains, near Tucson.

(Colored plate) Frontispiece

In a Tucson garden 4

Where peace reigns supreme. San Xavier 4

Mission church of San Xavier del Bac 12

A kiln at San Xavier 12

Threshing wheat. San Xavier 12

Sierra de la Basura, Sonora. Seen from the south-west . . . 18 '-

An exceptional mountain range of the Papagueria 18 "^

A characteristic mountain range of the Papagueria . . . . 18

Mocking-bird {Mivtus) 22

Elf-owl (Micropallas) 22

Cotton-tail rabbit 22

Young gray fox, at burrow 22

Rattlesnake 22

Peak of Baboquivari, seen from north-west 32 -^

Peak of Baboquivari 42

Ocotillo {Fouquieria splendens) 42

Entrance to the Sacred Cave, at foot of peak of Baboquivari 42

Barrel cactus 42

Sahuaro, or giant cactus {Cereus gigaiiteus) 48

Single-column sahuaro 48

Sahuaro, dry, showing its wooden structure 48

Papago ethnology 56

Picture drawn by an untutored Papago 62

Using the ancient hoe 62

Mother with child in cradle. Aktjin 62

xxi xxH ILLUSTRATIONS

Palo verde, near a Papago cemetery 72

The medicine-lodge at Santa Rosa 72

Showing how to swing the bull-roarer 88

Woman's game of double-ball 88

Papago woman, with her children, from Bisani, near Caborca 88

The clown at the great feast of Santa Rosa 92 ''

My camp at Santa Rosa 92 '

Papago ethnology 96

Shrine of the children's sacrifice, seen from the west .... 104

Shrine of the children's sacrifice, near Santa Rosa 104

East of the shrine of the children's sacrifice 104

Papago ethnology no

Desert willow in bloom, June 120

Papago woman carrying water 120

The dam at Santa Rosa. Made by the Papagoes 120

Pablo, my interpreter. A full-blooded Papago 132

The old way of hauling freight in Mexico, now disappearing . 136

Bringing bat guano to Corral railroad station in the Yaqui

country 136

Yaqui chiefs who in 1909 made peace with the Mexican Government 136

Ancient fortifications near Trincheras, District of Altar, Sonora 140

The same side of the mountains, viewed at five miles distance

from the north 140

Antiquities of the Papagueria 142 ^

Antiquities of the Papagueria 144 ^^

The church in old Caborca 146

Altar, seen from the west 146

A ranch, west of Altar, showing the indispensable water barrels 146

Cow eating choya 152

Cow showing vestiges of her favorite feeding grounds . . . . 152

ILLUSTRATIONS xxiii

Choya {Opuntia mamillata), relished as food by the cattle . . 152

Feeding on mezquite leaves 162

Papago women bringing in wood, La Nariz 162

Pictographs near La Nariz 168

Pictographs near Caborca 168

The nose of the rock which gave La Nariz its name .... 168

Ancient pottery vessels of the Papagueria. Excavated by Papago Indians near Fresnal, Arizona. {Colored plate) . . 170

Papago woman, La Nariz 174

The principal spring at Quitovac 174

Agua Dulce, a reappearance of Sonoita River 180

The channel at the beginning of Sonoita River 180

Salt loads, recently discharged. Papago pack-saddles in the

centre 184

Papago woman "dry washing" gold near Quitovac . . . . 184

Approaching storm. View from Pinacate top, looking south, at

sunset, January 3 200

Pinacate from the east. Commencement of the lava flow. To

the right, my camp 200

Belt of great sand-hills south of Pinacate 200

Guadalupe at the sacred cave of Pinacate 208

The lonely palo fierro 222

Greasewood bushes 222

Hauling palo fierro branches for camp fire at dusk 222

Mountain sheep, female 228

Tracks of beetles (Eleodes) on sand dune 228

Crater elegante 232

The watercourse at Tinaja de Los Papagos 232

Paso de Juana 236

Tinajas Altas 240

Clemente: Papago 240 xxlv ILLUSTRATIONS

Filling our barrels and canteens at Tinaja del Tula .... 240

Laguna Prieta, from the east 244

In the sand dunes before arriving at Laguna Prieta .... 244

Indians burning reeds and grass on the Colorado River . . . 248

Approaching Laguna Prieta 248

A stranded porpoise 256

Row of curlews on the beach 256

The delta of the Colorado River showing clumps of bulrushes

{Tulares) 256

Clayey sand cliffs of the gulf 256

A pozo at Salina Grande, seen from the east 262

The same pozo, seen from the west 262

Salina Grande in its northern part, showing many of the pozos

or tulares 262

A pozo at the edge of Salina Grande 264

A pozo at Salina Grande 264

Beautiful effects of wind and sand, north-west of Pozo del

Caballo 272

The Pinacate salt deposit . 272

Leaving La Soda . 286

Sierra Blanca, southern part, seen from the south 286

Waiting for his chance. At Los Pozitos 286

QEnothera trichocalyx, near Sierra del Rosario 312

(Enothera trichocalyx, near Sierra del Rosario. A fine growth 312

CEnothera trichocalyx, south of Sierra Blanca 312

Clodomiro digging for "roots of the sands" (Cflmo/^j-) . . . 318

The "roots of the sands" (^mmo^roma j-onori^) 318

My companions, "Doctor" Pancho (to the left) and Pedro . 318

Sierra del Rosario, northern part 324

ILLUSTRATIONS

XXV

Cabeza Prieta Range. An interior, looking westward. A dry

arroyo at the bottom ^24

Papago: Guadalupe, my companion from Quitovac .... 344

Papago: Miguel, medicine-man from La Nariz 344

Girl. Parents: Chinaman and Yaqui 344

Boy. Parents: Spaniard and Papago 344

Pima granary. Made from twisted arrow bush 350

Hut for the isolation of women 3 cq

Papago: "Rainbow," from La Nariz 350

Designs of Papago baskets 3^^

Casa Grande, Arizona, before the protecting shed was erected

Printed with map showing Papago Rancherias

MAPS

Map showing Papago Rancherias, Present and Past

Map of South-western Arizona and North-western i I'^ pocket at

Sonora, comprising the region formerly called Papagueria end of volume

Chapter I

WESTWARD BOUND— CIVILIZATION IN THE WEST— TUCSON PAST AND PRESENT— VISIT TO SAN XAVIER DEL BAC— THE PAPAGO INDIAN RESERVATION— ANCIENT FORTIFICATIONS— NATIVE CEMETERIES — ANTIQUITIES — COURTSHIP OF THE NIGHT- HAWKS

In May, 1909, I found myself on a train westward bound for the never-never country. Many a time have I crossed the North American continent and, coming from the East, have noticed the change of natural conditions that takes place west of Chicago. One begins to feel the freedom of the West, the air is very bracing, and the great plains inspire to deeds of energy. The few people in the Pullman car look intent, as if they had some purpose in life. Tourists seldom travel on these trains, but very often consumptives are seen on their way to the land of hope, the arid regions of the South-west around El Paso, Tucson, and other places.

"Pardon me for calling you mister. Judge,'' said one of my fellow-passengers during our conversation. He was not a good judge himself, I am afraid. Another one to show his good-will gave me the title of colonel, as also did the negro porters.

"Why do you want to discover any more animals? We have enough already," said to me a wise, elderly man from California, connecting in some way my proposed expedition with the discovery of animals.

We pulled out from El Paso and, in a newspaper I had just bought, I read these rather startling lines:

COWBOYS AND SHEEPMEN FIGHT

Fierce Battle at Atchee, Colo.

SHEEPMEN ARE TIED UP AND COWBOYS THEN SLAUGHTER 3,000 HEAD

OF SHEEP

Grand Junction, Colo., May 20. — -As a result of a battle between the sheepmen and cowboys on a contested ranch near Atchee, Colo., yesterday, 3,000 head of sheep were killed and two sheepmen injured, but not seriously. According to the reports received here the cowboys dashed in upon the herders and tied them to trees and then rode among the sheep, killing them. The slaughter required almost a day. In order to prevent the news from leaking out, it is said, the cowboys first cut the telephone wires and then made their escape into the hills. Several hours later the sheep-herders were discovered and liberated.