A message from Batang; the diary of Z. S. Loftis, M.D., missionary to Tibetans

Front matter

A MESSAGE A^/7?BATANG

•:• z ■ s • LOFTis •:■

Class __J1-S^l^^

Preface

The task of writing this preface has seemed most difficult ; not the work, but that I may use the words he would wish me to use, that what I write may reach the hearts he hoped to reach, that out of his labor and his thoughts may come the power he would wish them to have.

"Whatever was difficult, whatever was tiresome, whatever trials he had on his long journey, he made no complaint in his little book, and it could not have been all easy.

The knowledge he gained that no one before him had hitherto acquired, especially concerning the great Litang Monastery, has the right to be given to the world through his name.

On seeing the solitary grave three days out from Batang, if then the tragedy of his fate entered his soul, we can never know ; but if it did he came off victor from the struggle, and bowed his head in submission to the Higher WiU, and we are the losers. His ability, his knowledge is lost, such a loss I could never make you know or feel.

" So many worlds, so much to do.

So little done, such things to be ; How know I what had need of thee, For thou wert strong as thou wert true.

Preface

** The fame is quenched that I foresaw,

The head hath missed an earthly wreath ; I curse not nature, no, nor death ; For nothing is that errs from law.

" So here shall silence guard thy fame But somewhere out of human view, Whate'er thy hands are set to do Is wrought with tumult of acclaim."

— Tennyson.

Batangj West China.

Autobiography

Z. S. LoFTis, M. D., was a native of Tennessee, born in Gainsboro, May 11, 1881, where be lived until he was seven years of age. His parents then moved to a Kansas farm, where he worked dm-ing the summer and attended school during the winter months. After several years the family moved to Central Texas, where his school work still continued. During spare times he learned the printers' trade and studied photography. He became a Christian at the age of thirteen and was actively identified in Sunday-school and church work. Upon the death of his father in 1898, he was thrown largely upon his own resources. In 1899 he entered the Department of Pharmacy in Vanderbilt University from which he graduated in 1901, winning the Founders' medal given to the honor man of the class. For several years he worked at retail drug business and in manufacturing laboratories supporting his mother.

It was while doing slum mission work and teaching in a Chinese Sunday-school in St. Louis that he felt a call to become a medical missionary. He then offered himself to God for that purpose and set about trying to secure a medical education. He came to Nashville and entered Yanderbilt Medical Department, working outside school hours each day to earn money to pay his expenses. In

Autobiography

the summer of 1906 he was sent by the college to the Southern Students' Y. M. C. A. Conference at Asheville, North Carolina. As yet he had not decided on any particular place, but was praying that he might be sent to the most difficult and needy field in all the world. At the Asheville Conference he heard of Tibet. The very fact that it was a closed land and so difficult of access caused him to pray that he might be sent there. During his senior year in college he served as president of the ]S'ashville Student Yolunteer Union. In January, 1908, he was appointed by the Foreign Christian Missionary Society of Cincinnati as a medical missionary to Tibet. Shortly afterwards the Yine Street Christian Church of Nashville pledged to support him as their representative in the foreign field since he was an active member of that church, being much interested in the Sunday-school and city mission work. Graduated from Yanderbilt Medical Department in June, 1908, and sailed for the foreign field, September 18th, the same year.

Above the Clouds . . . ,

XIV. Batang at Last

Illustrations

City of Batang Frontispiece

On Board the good ship " Mongolier" Facing page 14'^ House for Chinese Soldiers near Shanghai . . 26 ' House-boat on the Yangtse River . . .26^ Entrance to Ming Tomb at Nankin, China . 36"^ Chinese Arch . . . . . . -36

Gehwji near Samba . . . , , .100 Dr. Loftis in the Coracli . . . . .100

Kanger Building . . . , . .120

Principal Hall of the Litang Monastery . . 120 Mr. Soutter's Grave at Samba .... 136

Headman at Samba . . . . . .136

Grave of Dr. Loftis at Batang . , . . 144

S. S. ''Mongolia," Sept 15, 1909.

August 31st I left Nashville, Tenn., for Cincinnati, Ohio. The day was a very busy one, and at 8 p. M. my train was off. About fifty of my friends were at the depot to wish me good-bye, and during the last moments sang, " God be with you till we meet again," and repeated the Mizpah benediction. The memory of this will always be dear to me. As the train rolled away the long trip had really begun, and I was at last started on my journey.

Arriving at Cincinnati I remained the 1st, 2d and 3d for the annual Missionary Conference. There were about thirty-five old and new missionaries present, and we spent the time in a spiritual feast. September 6th found me at home in Kogers, Texas, where two of my cousins had arrived the day previous to wish me farewell, and so we were a happy bunch. We went to Sunday-school and church in my old home church. The next few days were spent very busily and happily with mother and my old friends. September 10th I bade mother and my other loved ones farewell, and started for the coast. Arriving in San Antonio I found my train late, so went to visit the Alamo. There I entered the rooms occupied by our brave men, and stood by the spots made sacred by the shed blood of those who gave their lives for the cause they loved. It made my heart swell with emotion as I thought of Bowie, Travis and Crockett, who were glad to serve their country thus. What a privilege to lay down one's life for a cause he loves.

On September 16th, at 1 p. m., the good ship Mongolia left her moorings, and the steady throbbing of the great engines began. I stood on deck and watched the waving mass of humanity on the pier, but knew no soul there. My last farewells had been spoken. We slowly steamed out through the harbor, through the Golden Gate and then the prow of the ship was pointed towards the southwest. There was no sorrow in my heart as I saw the loved native land fading in the distance, holding all that was dear to me except my work. I turned my face and heart towards the setting sun, and began to settle down for the long voyage.

Sejptemher 17th.

I opened my first steamer letter to-day and it made me very happy to know how my Yine Street friends love me. It is quite inspiring to know that good true people are praying daily for me. How I wish they might know how well and happy I am to-day ! The ocean is a glorious sight, almost as o calm as a large river, the sun shines directly down, causing the water to glisten with the dancing light. I begin to be able to appreciatiB more and more the poems and stories of the ocean. Two expressions especially have been running in my mind, " KoU on! thou deep and dark blue ocean, roll," and " Spread round all, old ocean's gray and melancholy waste." The day closed with letter writing, and in reading " The Lady of the Decoration," laughing and crying over it.

September Wth.

The first Sunday on the ocean ! How different from the last two! "We had services after the Episcopal form, and the old familiar hymns sounded as good out here as they did at home.

Sejpterriber '21st.

Early this a. m. the ship was astir with subdued excitement. Passengers were out on deck at daybreak, eagerly looking for a glimpse of that beloved " terra flrma " which had seemed so far away during part of the voyage. To the south could be seen a long, low, dark mass of color which we soon saw to be land. On the opposite side we could see large, rough rocky hills which we were told was the island on which Honolulu was located. Soon we were summoned to the dining-room, and found that we must be inspected before we could land. The steward came down with a bunch of letters i6 A Message from Batang

which he began to distribute, and I for a moment felt a longing for a letter, when I remembered that all my mail would come the way I had come, and necessarily could not reach me here, but just then the steward handed me a letter addressed to my own self. A lady who had been similarly surprised a month before passed the delightful experience along to me. As we neared the pier some eight or ten native boys were seen swimming in the water, and diving for the coins which were cast into the sea by the passengers. They would watch the piece of money plunge into the water, then swim towards the spot where it disappeared, dive after it, and invariably catch it before it had reached the bottom and bring it up triumphantly. They kept it in their mouths for want of a better pocket, then called the admiring passengers to throw down more. "We soon were ashore, but somehow I didn't feel at home on solid ground, and had diflBculty in getting about with as much facility as usual. The ground didn't rock and sway like the ship, and my feet were surprised at the ground not coming up to meet them.

The first place we visited was the market house. There I saw many fruits I had never dreamed of, and many others whose names I had heard but had never seen. Fish of all kinds, sizes and colors, from tiny shrivelled ones that seemed to have been pulled before they were ripe, to the big ugly devil-fish. I left the market feeling that nature had indeed supplied these Hawaiians with plenty to eat, and was thankful I didn't have to taste at least a little of each new thing I saw. E'ext we caught a streetcar, and travelled through a regular maze of beauty. Right here I pause before the immensity of the task before me ! — that of describing what I saw. In order to do it justice I should have to kiss the Blarney stone several times, then for a pen, pluck a feather from the most gorgeous hued birdof -paradise that ever lived; and for ink I would need a concentrated mixture of ten thousand selected rainbows, mixed with a few tons of the brightest tropical flowers, all dissolved in the most highly colored ocean in the world ; while for a scroll I would need heaven's broad expanse, tinted with the combined beauty of a dozen of the most exquisitely colored sunsets which nature can paint.

All this and more would be needed to adequately convey the faintest conception of the beauties we saw. Nature must indeed have been in lavish mood when she poured out her cornucopia of beauties on this favored spot. There may be other spots more beautiful, but I'm from Missouri ! Then we went out along the famous Waikiki beach, the finest in all the world ; through the trees we caught sight of the ocean, and never did I dream that water could assume such delightful hues. The waves burst into milk-white spray, and came curling in on the clean white sand. Then beyond were the most delicate tints of green and blue, shading off into the sky so gradually that it was hard to tell where one began and the other ended. "Next i8 A Message from Batang

we visited the aquarium which is reckoned as the finest in the world. The fish were all on parade, as if conscious of their beauty and gorgeous coloring ; even the ugly devil-fish did a few stunts for our special benefit, but it made one get white around the mouth, he got so angry when we tried to arouse him to activity. If it were possible for me to describe the fish I saw I wouldn't do it, for my friends would read my description, and sadly shake their heads, and say, "Poor boy ! I feared it. I almost knew his mind would give way under the strain of leaving home and loved ones, and at last it has happened." We came back to town and out towards Diamond Head, through a lovely valley, with the most delightful homes we could possibly imagine. I think I would be satisfied if I got to heaven, and was shown a home as beautiful as some of those, and was told it was to be mine eternally. After a most delicious lunch at the Y. M. C. A. building we went across the street and saw the first frame building erected in the islands. It was built in 1821, having been shipped around the Horn, and was in the island a year before the king would allow it to be erected, saying, " No one should live in a finer house than he."

We then visited the Koyal Palace, and saw the throne room, and a little of the splendor of the departed kings and queens of Hawaii. There was something pathetic about the beauty which seemed a mockery of the departed power of an extinct government and its rapidly disappearing people, as the race is being absorbed by the other nationalities which have invaded the islands.

Another car ride took us out into a beautiful valley, past the tombs of the kings and queens, " The powerful of earth," for even in this fairy-land people die. At present there are only two of the '^ royal line " living, and soon the last will have been laid in " their last resting-place by those who in their turn shall follow them," and so we get our lesson, " And yet a few days and thee the all-beholding sun shall see no more," and are reminded that we should live not as those who have no hope, but sustained and soothed by an unfaltering trust, approach our " grave like one who wraps the drapery of his couch about him and lies down to sleep and pleasant dreams." There is so much of beauty, so much of sentiment on these islands, that one feels that it is indeed fairy-land, where all the inhabitants are fairies, and every day a holiday.

As the ship left the harbor the divers again followed us, sporting in the water as if it were their native element. As the land once more faded in the distance, we turned our faces westward, while our hearts were filled with praise and thanksgiving to God for the joys of this day. The sunset was most beautiful, and I was loath to go indoors and leave nature for even a few hours.

II

Nearing the " Far East '*

Septemher 25th.

There was to have been a dance on board this evening, but owing to the death of a passenger it was postponed. An old gentleman and his wife were going to Japan to visit one of their children, but it will be a sad meeting that will occur when the poor old mother greets her child alone, and tells her sad story.

This has been the second death so far as I know that has occurred since we left San Francisco. The other poor man was buried at sea, and in the night time. Out of respect for the dead, the machinery was stopped, and the corpse, wrapped in its shroud, was dropped over the rail into the deep, cold sea. There was a splash, a ripple on the ocean's bosom, then the sea closed over the spot, and the body sank into the dark depths, " without a grave, unknelled, uncofflned and unknown." There were few to watch the sad burial, or to mingle their salt tears with the ocean's briny ones ; but at that last great day when the trumpet shall sound, will not this man rise from his watery grave to stand before his King to be judged just the same as the man who was buried with pomp and glory in an expen-

Nearing the " Far East " 21

sive, hermetically sealed casket, where the worm and the water cannot enter ? Yes, we shall meet him there when we, too, go to receive our reward.

September Wth.

To-day the wind was blowing a good, stiff gale, driving the rain and spray before it in blinding sheets. This, with the fog, made it impossible to see more than a short distance from the vessel. The wind shrieked and whistled through the shrouds ; the captain anxiously walked the deck and bridge, looking for anything that might mean danger to us. The wind drove the spray like snow, taking it off from the surface of the water, and blowing it along in streaks, sometimes pitching it up and whirling it round and round, like dust in a whirlwind on a summer day. About noon the sun came through the clouds, and every wave that burst into spray had its rainbow. Every moment the picture would change : never the same. Every wave and every rainbow had a beauty all of its own. It was all gloriously different, so that one would never tire of the wonderful panorama of ocean views which the kind Creator so freely displayed for our enjoyment, it seemed. My heart swelled with gratitude and emotions unspeakable. I felt no fear, because I knew the Master was guiding us, and that He was just the same as when aroused by His frightened disciples during a storm, He calmed the angry tempest by " Peace be still," and the winds and waves obeyed Hitn. I knew the

Father held all this wild, turbulent, stormy ocean in the hollow of His hand, and not one of the agitated elements could harm me without His consent. It was great to feel that my Father controlled all this, and that it was all His. Some of the old familiar songs took on a deeper meaning after what I had seen. For example

*' Jesus Saviour, pilot me, Over life's tempestuous sea.

Unknown waves before me roll, Hiding rock and treacherous shoal."

This can only mean more to one who has seen the unknown waves rolling before him as far as eye could reach. " Lead kindly Light amid the encircling gloom," comes with greater force when you see the fog settling down around you, and hear the shrill blast of the wind and roar of the waves about you. It is worth while to be able to look up into heaven and know that your Father is on His throne, and nothing can go wrong.

October M.

"When I arose this morning I looked out and saw land again, the first view of the " Sunrise Kingdom." Soon after landing we found ourselves seated in jinrikishas, and headed for a restaurant. This was something new. Here I was in a little one-seated, two-wheeled buggy, with a man for a horse. I thought the proper name would be " Pull-man car." He trotted up streets and down

Nearing the " Far East " 23

streets, and finally reached our destination where, amid many profuse bows, we went up-stairs to a large table, and after great exertion succeeded ia ordering dinner. After sightseeing for some time we came back to the wharf, and finding a launch, started for the ship ; ran aground trying to get out of the harbor, spent an hour getting off, but finally reached the steamer in safety.

October 6th.

Found us passing through the famous Inland Sea ; beautiful islands were all about us ; and the blue water still and smooth, with its many sails, small fishing craft, and here and there a coasting vessel puffing out black smoke, made a pretty picture. After I have heard the missionaries speak in Japanese to the people, I have been most anxious to get down to the study of my language, so I can work with my people, the Tibetans. How I long for the time when I may tell of Him who sent me to minister unto them, using their own language !

October 6th.

When I awoke we were in the harbor at l!^agasaki, said to be the best protected harbor on the globe. This is the second fastest coaUng station in the world, the record being 4,000 tons in nineteen hours, all done fey hand ! There were about fifty coal barges around the ship. Ladders were quickly built up against the sides, and the human chain was formed. Men and women on the barges quickly filled the small grass baskets, and they were started up the line. They moved as steadily as if by machinery. All day long they would keep this up, receiving about forty cents a day.

October 7th.

Out in the YeUow Sea ! The last day on the ocean. To-morrow I reach the land which henceforth is to be my home. I begin a new life to-morrow. The same person, but a new life. I leave America behind when I leave the Mongolia. May God help me to be worthy of the charge. To-night I went out on the prow and enjoyed the beauty of the sea. The moon was almost a cloud, flooding the sea with silver. When it would disappear I could see the phosphorescence in the water to better advantage. It was very bright, and the ship seemed plowing through a sea of fire. The ship has now anchored off the bar waiting for morning. I feel happy to know that to-morrow will mark a new era in my life. I leave old friends and scenes, and enter upon an entirely new field of work. May God bless my efforts, and help me to be humble and prayerful.

Ill

First Glimpse of China — Shanghai

October 8th.

DiscovEEED CMna to-day. Woke up and saw land in the distance. Looked at the water and found it as muddy as it could be. The great Yangste here empties its load of sand and silt into the sea, and pushes it out for fifty miles into the ocean. We started up the mouth of the Yangste, which here is fifty or sixty miles across. We soon dropped anchor, and as I came down the steps I bade farewell to the dear old Mongolia, which was the last tie between me and America. It was a long way to the wharf, but at last our launch arrived, and two of our missionaries were there, and gave me a hearty welcome and some letters. I had a letter from the Batang people giving me so much desired information, and making my heart glad to know they were so thoughtful of me.

Well, here I was in China at last, the day I had dreamed of for many long days ; but it was no time for dreaming now. Our baggage attended to, we started for the missionary home. The streets were swarming with Chinese of all kinds, who would be most unattractive but for the fact that they possess a human soul which our Master loves.

In the afternoon I started out shopping, but first had some money changed, and if the Japanese coin is bad, this is terrible. I got a handful of different coins, no two of which were exactly alike, though some were of the same value. I was told that a dollar was worth more than ten ten-cent pieces, and several other paradoxical things. Started out along the street to see things, and, well I saw them — shops, tea-houses, travelling restaurants, old Chinamen and young ones, beggars holding up a stub of an arm or a sore hand. Once in a while a foreigner, and semi-occasionally an American face. Here I was chasing around on the streets of Shanghai, China, alone as I would in America. The great trouble was I couldn't " rubber," badly as I wanted to, for the minute I began to look around I showed that I was a tenderfoot, and a half dozen " rikisha " coolies would spot me, and swarm around to make me ride. My only chance was to look absolutely unconcerned, and strike out down the street as if I knew just where I was going and why, and then they would let me alone.

Only one member of the Mongolia passenger list besides myself is here, and I feel that indeed the crowd is scattering. To-night I'm writing these words alone, in a little room at the very top of the building (for it's mission money I am spending, and I must not be hard to satisfy) ; my observation to-day has told me that there is an immense amount of work to be done here in Shanghai, and furthermore that it will take a long time to do it with all

House for Chinese Soldiers near Shanghai

Houseboat on the Yangtse River

First Glimpse of China — Shanghai 27

October 10th.

I went around to see our school in Shanghai, and saw a number of bright-faced boys studying with all their might, and out loud, too. It made me very happy to see them, and the good work here. They gave me a Chinese name, Lo E Sen (Dr. Lo). A most cordial invitation was extended to me to come and work in Kantungchow, and I couldn't help but feel the strength of the appeal. A great field, money already provided for the hospital, two nice homes already built, and enough work to keep half a dozen busy for a hundred years ! Such an opportunity ! How I wish I had another life to invest there.

I went to our mission here for Sunday-school and church. There was quite a number present, and some had such good faces ; men I could not help but love and trust. One good old elder impressed me very much, as well as an old Bible woman who had spent thirty years in the Master's service. At the close we had a very sweet communion service with the Master, and I left much happier for what I had seen.

In the afternoon we had another very delightful service, and I was introduced and spoke a few words. As there were a number of children present I thought of my own Yine Street Sunday-school scholars, and the interesting faces I looked into a few Sundays ago in Nashville, as I told them good-bye. Then I told the Chinese children of the Vine Street Sunday-school, and how they had sent greetings and love to them. I saw their faces light up with interest as the interpreter spoke, and they all stood and desired that I send their love and greeting to my little friends in America.

Another thing I did before the morning service was to go with Mr. "Ware to some tea-shops with some leaflets. He told me to say " Please look " in Chinese, and so I passed out a number with these words. They were all received very kindly and willingly, some were read and some carried away.

I was very happy to do this, my first service for my Master here in China. May God bless the seed thus sown, and may it bring fruit to His honor and glory.

At nine o'clock in the evening went to another service held by Chinese boys who have to work during the day, and therefore have to meet at this time. They have a room rented, and defray all expenses themselves. A very earnest and consecrated set of Christian boys. It was an inspiration to look into their faces. "When they were told where I was going they were much interested, and asked many questions, and one suggested they have a word of prayer for my safety on my way. So we stood with bowed heads while one of these boys carried their petition to our Father's throne

First Glimpse of China — Shanghai 29

that I might have a successful and safe journey. As I heard my new name presented to the Father by these my Chinese brothers, my eyes filled with tears, and even now as I write my heart swells within me as I think of these consecrated Chinese Christians, doing this loving service for the Master's servant. Those few moments alone more than repaid me for many weary hours of trial I have had to reach this place. May God shower His blessings on this band of noble boys. It has been a glorious day, for which I am very thankful.

October 13th.

Started for [N'ankin to-day. Boarded the train at twelve o'clock, and was soon going through the country. Little farms were all about and people watering them. The canals form a fine waterway system. "We passed a number of villages where the people lived in little grass huts. One thing that impressed me very much was the immense number of graves everywhere to be seen. Thousands and thousands of graves dotted the fields as far as the eye could reach, and scarcely at any time could I look from the car window without seeing these countless mounds. As I mused on the multitudes that slumbered here, the horrible thought flashed over me that these were all graves of heathen, of men and women who had gone down to the grave without the knowledge of Jesus, and without hope. What a scene it will be when, on the last great day, they shall stand before the judgment bar and say, " "We did not know — they, your disciples, did not tell us."