Old Indian trails; incidents of camp and trail life, covering two years exploration through the Rocky Mountains of Canada

Front matter

Ifiiiii iiil I It

Book

Gop)Ti^htN°

Chapter I

TWENTY years ago, ninety -nine per cent, of the tourists to the section of the Rockies of Canada mentioned in these pages, flitted across the country as bees across a flower-garden, and were gone.

There were comparatively few of them, and but a small modicum of enthusiasm distributed among them. Banff contained a hostlery which swallowed all who came and left few visible (so small was the number) ; Lake Louise boasted no hotel at all, — we slept in tents in '93, and from our door looked out upon that magnificent scene with chattering teeth and shivering bodies, and vowed never again to camp in the Canadian Rockies; Field, with her splendid drives and trails and Yoho Valley to-day, was an insignificant divisional point and eating station; Glacier, a tiny picturesque chalet cuddled close to the railroad track as though to shield her from the dark forests behind her, was full to the brim if so many as a dozen stopped off to view the one sight of those days, — the Great Glacier. At that time no one dreamed of the fascinating caves only seven miles away, hidden and unknown in an even more fascinating valley.

However, over an infinitesimally few those mountains had throwm a glamour and a spell so persistent and so strong, that with the first spring days, no matter where they be, warm breezes brought the call,- — " Come back, come back to the blue hills of the Rockies!"

And we went ; went year by year ; watched the little chalets grow, watched the pushing of the trails into new points of interest, watched with veiled and envious eyes our secret haunts laid bare to all who came. And they did come, fast and furious! Steam heat and hot and cold water had done their work. The little tents on the shores of Lake Louise, with their balsam-bough beds and an atmosphere reeking with health and strength to those weary with the city's life, were banished, and only found again by the determined few who had heard of the recently discovered Moraine Lake, Lakes O'Hara and McArthur, and Ptarmigan and Yoho Valleys. Point by point we fled to them all, each one of them a stronghold at civilisation's limits, each one of them a kindergarten of the at-first-despised camping life. In them we learned the secret of comfort, content, and peace on very little of the world's material goods, learned to value at its true worth the great un-lonely silence of the wilderness, and to revel in the emancipation from frills, furbelows, and small follies.

But the tide swept on. With jealous eyes we watched the silence slipping back, the tin cans and empty fruit-jars strew our sacred soil, the mark of the axe grow more obtrusive, even the trails cleared of the dehris so hard to master, yet so precious from the fact it must be mastered to succeed.

Where next? Driven from our Eden, where should our tents rise again? We were growing lost and lonesome in the great tide which was sweeping across our playground, and we longed for wider views and new untrammelled ways. With willing ears we listened to the tales brought in by the hunters and trappers, those men of this land who are the true pioneers of the country in spite of the fact that they have written nothing and are but little known. With hearts not entirely on pelts, they had seen and now told us of valleys of great beauty, of high unknown peaks, of littleknown rivers, of un-named lakes, lying to the north and north-west of the country we knew so well,' — a fairyland, yet a land girt about with hardships, a land whose highway was a difficult trail or no trail at all. We fretted for the strength of man, for the way was long and hard, and only the tried and stalwart might venture where cold and heat, starvation and privation stalked ever at the explorer's heels. In meek despair we bowed our heads to the inevitable, to the cutting knowledge of the superiority of the endurance of man and the years slipped by.

From the States came Allen and Wilcox, (men of course) , gathered their outfits together and left us sitting on the railroad track following them with hungry eyes as they plunged into the distant hills; to listen just as hungrily to the camp-fire tales on their return, of all the wonders of the more northern Rockies; came Stuttfield, Collie, Woolley, Outram (names so well known in the alpine world to-day), to tell again to our eager-Hstening ears of the vast, glorious, unexplored country beyond; came Fay, Thompson, and Coleman, — all men !

There are few women who do not know their privileges and how to use them, yet there are times when the horizon seems restricted, and we seemed to have reached that horizon, and the Hmit of all endurance,' — to sit with folded hands and listen calmly to the stories of the hills we so longed to see, the hills which had lured and beckoned us for years before this long list of men had ever set foot in the country. Our cups splashed over. Then we looked into each other's eyes and said: ''Why not? We can starve as well as they; the muskeg will be no softer for us than for them; the ground will be no harder to sleep upon; the waters no deeper to swim, nor the bath colder if we fall in," — so— we planned a trip.

But instead of railing at our predecessors, we were to learn we had much for which to thank them. Reading the scanty literature which dealt with their various expeditions, we had absorbed one huge fundamental fact almost unconsciously, viz.,' — that though this was a land of game,— of goat, sheep, bear, deer and caribou, one might pass through the country for days yet see no signs of wild life. Fish there are in plenty, yet for weeks, when the summer sun melts every thing meltable, and the rivers are clouded with silt from the glaciers, they will not rise to the most tempting bait, and the grouse disappear as though by magic.

Throughout the limited literature ran this simple ever-present fact, — a beatitiful, but inhospitable land, and the cause of many an unfinished or abandoned expedition, and a hasty retreat to the land of bread-and-butter.

Thanking our informants for their unconscious hint, we laid our plans both long and deep. Our initial experience of one night's camp on the shores of Lake Louise, when we had felt frozen to the bone, and had at the time promised ourselves never to do such a trick again, had been augmented by a flight of three days to Yoho Valley when it was n't Yoho

"Chief"

Valley, only a lovely unknown bit of country, another chilly experience at Moraine Lake, a pause, then a week in the Ptarmigan Valley, and later a sortie of five weeks in the Saskatchewan country. In these trips we had gathered a few solid facts; surely with them we were more or less prepared for a whole summer in the country of which so little was known.

In spite of the protests of anxious relatives and friends, our plans were laid for a fourmonths' trip during the summer of 1907, and a vow made not to return till driven back by the snows.

The guide-in-chief was our most important factor. To whom should we more naturally turn than to him who had watched over us in the days of our camp swaddling-clothes, who had calculated the amount of our first camp-fare, given us our first lessons in camp comforts, and in fact our very first lessons in sitting astride a horse and learning to jump a log without being shot over the head of our steed?

Three years' acquaintance had taught us his value, and as he did not turn us down, but kindly spurred us on in our undertaking, and cheerfully assumed the leadership, he made us feel we had worn a considerable amount of the

PM

M tenderfoot from our compositions. Having always kept a strict account of the amount of food he had packed over the trails for us on our shorter expeditions, it became a mere matter of arithmetic for a longer one. If so many pounds of bacon lasted us seven weeks, how many pounds of bacon would last sixteen weeks?- — and so through the entire gamut of the food supply, — flour, baking-powder, cocoa, coffee, tea, sugar, dried fruits, evaporated potatoes, beans, rice, etc., with a week's extra rations thrown in for emergency.

On him fell the entire responsibility of choosing and buying the best outfit of horses, saddlery, blankets, the hundred and one things needed and so apt to be forgotten, for in this land to which we were going there were no shops, only nice little opportunities for breaking and losing our few precious possessions.

It was his care also to choose the second guide to accompany us, not so easy a matter as it looks. This fourth member of our party must know how to cook a bannock that would not send one to bad dreams after a hard day's travel, to fry a piece of bacon exactly right, to boil the rice, and make bean soup, all at the camp-fire; it sounds

An Explanation ii

simple, but try it. He must be equally skilful in adjusting the packs that there be no sore backs, he must have a fund of patience such as Job was never forced to call upon, and a stock of good nature that would stand any strain. The man, the horses, and the food, our Chief found them all, and here to him I give the credit of our success, claiming only for ourselves the cleverness of knowing a good thing when we saw it.

It is an ''inhospitable land"; they who first tore the secrets from those hills have recorded it so; by their experiences we profited ; the wise head at the helm steadied the ship and all was well.

And so in the east, the early spring days went by at a snail's pace, with a constant discussion as to the best air-bed, the proper tents and their size, the most enduring shoe, etc., with trials and tests of condensed foods, ending mostly in trials.

There are a few of these foods which are well worth having, and there are some of them, which we were profoundly thankful we had tried before carting across the continent. For instance, beware of the dried cabbage; no fresh air in existence will ever blow off sufficient of the odour to let it get safely to the mouth.

" Granulosa" was a strongly recommended article to save carrying so much of that heavy and perishable, yet almost necessary, substance, sugar. The label on the neat small bottles read: "One half oz. granulose equal to one ton of sugar, price $i.oo." Who would dream of passing such a bargain? Too good to be true, yet we did believe and were soon the proud possessors of "one ton" of condensed sweetness, as also of a stock of dried milk and dried eggs. Truth compels me to state that each of the three has its limitations, and to this day I wonder if that dried milk had ever seen a cow, or if any hen would acknowledge the motherhood of those dried eggs. To the inventor or discoverer of "granulose" I should like to whisper that I thought he had got slightly mixed in his arithmetic; if he had said his dollar's worth of "granulose" was only equal to thirty pounds of sugar he would have been nearer correct and we would not have had to eat so many puddings and cakes without sweetening. The section of country which had so long been our dream, lies in the Canadian Rocky Mountain Range, directly north of that portion which is penetrated by the Canadian Pacific Railway. It is bounded by latitudes

51°, 30' and 52° 30'; and longitudes 116° to 118°. Our chief aim was to penetrate to the head waters of the Saskatchewan and Athabaska rivers. To be quite truthful, it was but an aim, an excuse, for our real object was to delve into the heart of an untouched land, to tread where no human foot had trod before, to turn the unthumbed pages of an unread book, and to learn daily those secrets which dear Mother Nature is so willing to tell to those who seek. So the "Saskatchewan and Athabaska sources " were a little pat answer which we kept on hand for the invariable question, "Goodness ! what ever takes you two women into that wild, unknown region?" It seemed strange at first to think we must announce some settled destination, that the very fact of its being a wilderness was not enough; but we could not be blind to the fact that nine-tenths of our loving relatives and friends thought us crazy, and the other tenth listened patiently as I ruminated aloud: "There is no voice, however famed, that can attune itself to the lonely comers of the heart, as the sigh of the wind through the pines when tired eyes are closing after a day on the trail. There is no chorus sweeter than the little birds in the early northern dawn;

and what picture can stir every artistic nerve more than to gaze from some deep green valley to stony crags far above, and see a band of mountain-sheep, in rigid statuesque pose, watching every move of the unknown enemy below? Why must so many cling to the life of our great cities, declaring there only may the heart-hunger, the artistic longings, the love of the beautiful be satisfied, and thus train themselves to believe there is nothing beyond the little horizon they have built for themselves? Why must they settle so absolutely upon the fact, that the lover of the hills and the wilderness drops the dainty ways and habits with the conventional garments and becomes something of coarser mould? Can the free air sully, can the birds teach us words we should not hear, can it be possible to see in such a summer's outing, one sight as painful as the daily ones of poverty, degradation, and depravity of a great city?"

I was so strongly impressed with this very idea one day, as it came unwittingly from a dear friend who had no idea she was "letting the cat out of the bag," that I cannot resist speaking of it. She had taken the keenest interest in all our wanderings, had listened by the hour (yes, quite true) if we would but get upon our hobby, and showed a sincere pride in introducing us as her friends * ' the explorers ' ' (the true explorer had better skip this part) ; broad-minded and sympathetic, even her thoughts were more or less tinged with the conventional colouring. Here is her introduction: "My friend, the little explorer, who lives among the Rocky Mountains and the Indians for months at a time, far, far in the wilderness. You would not expect it, would you? She does not look like it, does she? She ought to look some other way, should she not?" And then her listeners all bowed and smiled, and noted the cut of my garments, and said it really was wonderful. And I could have said : "Not half so wonderful as that you do not know the joys of moccasins after ordinary shoes, that there is a place where hat-pins are not the mode, and the lingerie waist a dream; that there are vast stretches where the air is so pure, body and soul are purified by it, the sights so restful that the weariest heart finds repose." Is it possible in such environments, for the character tO' coarsen, and the little womanlinesses to be laid aside? No, believe me, there are some secrets you will never learn, there are some joys you will never feel, there are heart thrills you can never experience, till, with your horse you leave the world, your recognised world, and plunge into the vast unknown. And all the thanks you will give us will be: "Why did you not tell iis to go before? why have you been so tame with your descriptions? We never guessed what we should find." Alas! it takes what I have not, a skilled pen. Perhaps the subject is too great, and the picture too vast for one small steel pen and one human brain to depict, — at least it is a satisfaction to think the fault is not my own.

CHAPTER 11

AND now with all necessary things gathered

^^ together, with trunks packed, not with

frills and furbelows, but with blankets and

"glucose," air-beds and evaporated milk, with

" Abercrombie " shoes and dried spinach, we

were off across the continent by the first of

June, 1907. At Winnipeg we picked up some

highly recommended tents, made of "Egyptian

sail-cloth," exceedingly light weight and small

bulk, though later we found they had their

faults, — -"but that is another story." Our

trunks had been checked at Montreal to the

little station of Laggan on the Canadian 2 17

Pacific Railway — our point of departure into the mountains, and in calm faith we dropped down the hill to Field, to get our breath and bearings, and wait for the bad weather to clear. This seemed likely to occur at any moment ; for a fiercer winter than that of 1 906 and '07 had not been known in the memory of the "oldest inhabitant"; the spring had been equally bad, and our reception was enough to cool even greater ardour than ours. We decided on June 20th as tJie latest day for the start; if the snows were not off the Bow Pass by that time, they should be, and even though it was so cold and chill, it was time by the calendar for the Saskatchewan to rise and on this point we meant to take no chances. Our entire outfit of horses and saddlery were for the time being in Banff, so we hied ourselves hither, primarily to investigate the "grub-pile,"' but in reality to behold the gathering of the new family. Why try to sketch our opinion? There were but two members on exhibition, one was "Buck," the sight of whom was enough to kill the most deep-seated case of horse-pride. Long and gaunt, with a hide of yellow tan, a mane and tail of black, dragged in from his free open life on the plains

^ Local term for all food-stuffs.

where he had never known a care, shod under the bitterest protest, he was a depressing-looking beast to us who had no idea where to look for the best points of a trail-horse. If we had been guilty of speaking in an off-hand, nonchalant way of "our" horses we stopped right there, and engaged our minds with bacon and beans. The future, however, proved the homely and unpopular "Buck" to have been made of sterling stuff; strong and willing, he had but one fault, a pair of violently active heels. No one ever received greater respect behind his back than "Buck," and it soon became second nature to make a wide detour when passing him. His companions were not always as cautious as we, and I have never seen him forget a slight, or fail to punish it, not once but many times, by a resounding, sickening thud in the ribs of the offender when off his guard.

From now on I shall keep before me the worn, thumbed, much-jeered-at diary; its lead-pencil-smudged pages (in many places nearly obliterated) are dear to the eyes of its owner, and it is at least a record of the heart-beats day by day, with all the lights and shadows of the hills and valleys underlying the grimy, once white leaves. Alas! that my pigments are so crude and my brushes coarse, the scenes are so fair and the artist so unequal to her task!

As I have said previously, our plans were to leave civilisation on June 20th. Our troubles, however, began on the eighteenth, at the awful discovery that our most valuable trunk, containing bedding, clothing, and photographic material for the expedition, was not at Laggan, to which point it had been shipped the week before. It is here that I start the record.

June 20th. — The day has come but not as we had planned. Two days ago it was discovered that a precious trunk was lost, and the agent comfortingly told us : "It must be somewhere between Montreal and Vancouver, if it has not been shunted off to Seattle." This gave us at least a wide field for imagination, and a fit of the horrors at the same time, as we saw a long-planned trip dissolving into nothingness for the want of a few necessary articles, while we could but gaze upon and admire the stony indifference of the four or five agents, to whom we had confided our troubles in all their harrowing details, yet remained so sublimely impassive. With determination born of despair, we hastened to

Calgary and repurchased the few articles possible, though valuable photographic plates and a precious air-mattress were not to be replaced for love or money.

Incidentally we poured our woes into the ears of the baggage-master-in-chief at Calgary, not because we really expected sympathy, but more as a safet3^-valve to our pent-up despair. His actions astonished us quite as much as those of his subordinates. In ten minutes reports were overhauled, and messages flying over the wires in every direction ; the trunk had passed through Calgary and the baggage-master was confident it lay between there and its intended destination. In two hours that executive and energetic gentleman was aboard the west-bound train with us, and rigorously inspecting the baggage department of every little wayside station along the line to Laggan. At last our poor little tragedy had touched a railroad heart, and even were that trunk never found, we would have with our new and ill-assorted garments a comforting sense of sympathy from one human soul. Our new-found friend's kindness and energy were rewarded. The trunk was calmly reposing at the Lake Louise chalet, where proprietor, baggageman, teamster, and station-agent had all vowed it was not, and at least there was one cause for thankfulness, that none of the searchers had fallen over it and broken a bone, as it was found in a most dangerously conspicuous place. At sight of it, all sorrow fled, and we could have hugged that dirty, travel- worn object with joy, whose every scar was by this time a point of beauty.

As for that baggage-master, he will live in our hearts as long as the memory of the trip remains. It is not time but circumstances which make us our friends ; this total stranger had stood by us in our hour of need ; through him the missing valuables had come to light, and were shortly distributed upon the backs of the horses. The duffel-bags fell into line, sugar and bacon joined hands, and with a wave of good-bye and a cheery au revoir from our new friend, we set our faces to the north and the fire-swept hills of the Bow Valley. A brand new Waterbury watch said it was high noon. The low clouds, laden with sleet and snow, intimated that it was a' ready far in the day, but there was emphatic reason for choosing a camp-ground far from the railroad track where the constant shifting of engines was liable to bring an untimely end to some of our family.

It seemed, as we wound slowly through the sparsely standing, burnt timber, that we had not left all calamity behind, but that it stalked beside us, hurling defiance in our faces with each gust of wind that swept angrily by, and reminded us of its power as the gaunt black trees crashed down about us. The new horses, accustomed to the open prairies, and nervous with the great packs they had never known before, erratically tore here and there in their endeavour to avoid the falling trees, and many times came very near to being struck. The fearful storms of the winter of 1906 and '07 had strewn the trail with timber, so that between jumping logs, chopping those we could not jump, and ploughing through the most disheartening muskeg, we at last, at nightfall, threw off the packs on a knoll with muskeg everywhere. Our first camp-fire was built in mud, we ate in mud, slept in mud, and our horses stalked around in mud, nibbling the few spears of grass which the late cold spring had permitted to sprout. The new air-mattresses came well into play, for we felt a comforting certainty that if we broke through the muskeg we would at least float.

It did seem a rather dreary breaking-in for a whole summer's camping trip and, if it was to continue, somewhat of a trial to both spirit and flesh, but tired as we were, we crawled into our sleeping-bags saying, "It might have been worse!"

The next day was Friday. A superstitious person would have revelled in our woes. Clouds were hanging ominously low, a sickly sun tried hard to shine, gave it up in despair, and sank into oblivion. Beds were rolled up and tents folded, while hail struck contemptuously at us. Only too thankful to leave that marsh behind us, we rushed into worse troubles. Not a hundred yards from camp we plunged into the worst muskeg we had so far encountered. Our horses, as yet untrained, recognised no leader, and went down one by one ; heavily laden, they were helpless in that fearful quagmire. Buck, who was loaded with about two hundred pounds of bacon and flour, was soon under water, pack and all, and was only saved from a watery grave by a quick application of a knife to the ropes, when down went the cargo and up came Buck. Both were quickly landed on more substantial soil, and the bacon had had its first bath, but never its last. I have been asked frequently the definition of "muskeg." The most lucid one I could think of would be, "get in a bad one, and you will see that there are no words adequate to its description." It is not a quicksand, it is not a marsh. In manyinstances, it looks like a lovely mountain stream flowing between banks rank with a rich growth of waving grasses; again, it is a damp-looking spot, but still overgrown with the same attractive, waving green. If not yet thoroughly acquainted with the signs, just watch your horse, he will begin to snuff the ground beneath him, and if there is any way around, it is well not to force him through that which his own judgment tells him to avoid.

The 2 1st was devoted to a distance of about seven miles, but it was seven miles of such going as one encounters only when spring unlocks the floods, and from that time on there was a most perceptible inclination on the part of the horses to watch and follow the leader, avoiding the side trips which led them to holes and consequent destruction.

Bow Park was our stopping-place for the night, a fine camp-ground for man and beast after the trials of the two previous days. For a number of years it has been a favourite resting-place for hunters and the few travellers who have been in that vicinity, and consequently porcupines are numerous. Poor little fellows! With not a hard thought in their hearts for a soul, gentle and almost tame, they are the bane of the camper's existence. Like other animals I could mention, they are fond of good living, but unlike some people, if good things are not to be had, they will fill up with what is on hand. The consequence is that bacon and saddlery, shoes and ropes, soap and tent-skirts are all grist for their insatiable little mills. Our sleep at Bow Park was broken by ominous rustlings of stiff quills dragging on the ground, gentle squeaks, then a sortie, a dull thud, and the listeners knew one more poor creature had come to his death because of an ungovernable appetite. Then we would turn over with the virtuous thought that we had made pillows of our shoes, that the cameras were under the bed, and other valuables hung from the ridge-pole, so that dozens of the enemy could do us no serious harm. My heart felt a little sad the next morning, there were so many inanimate bodies lying about who would never chew straps any more, and even a great corner out of a slab of valuable bacon failed to leave me with a hard thought for our amiable, neighbourly little enemy, the porcupine.

The day was Sunday ; for the first time during the trip the sun rose warm and bright over the great crags hanging above us. Up and off

Crow-foot Glacier

beside the sparkling Bow River the foot-way improved, but the sun grew hotter and hotter, and we knew it meant but one thing — the snow-fields so long locked by the tardy winter would be pouring their torrents into the large river (the Saskatchewan) we must soon cross.

Having visited Hector Lake the year before, and knowing that its marshy shores would be well-nigh impassable at this time of year, we left it to its watery fastness, passed on, and with the brilliant sunshine bathing everything about us, came upon the Crow-foot Glacier, still gowned in her winter robes. Of peculiar formation, no one can ever fail to recognise her, her name fitting her perfectly.