The frozen zone and its explorers: a comprehensive history of voyages, travels, adventures, disasters, and discoveries in the Arctic regions, including recent German and Swedish expeditions; Captain Nare's English expedition; Prof. Nordenskiold's discovery of a northeast passage; the sailing of the Jeannette, etc

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Introduction

The Arctic Regions, cold, dreary and desolate, liave been the theatre of the most heroic exploits and daring adventures the world has ever seen. Here the genius of such men as Parry, Koss, Franklin, Kane, Hayes, Hall, Payer, Markham, Nares, Nordenskiold, and DeLong has found ample scope for development ; and a taste of the perils and hardships of the Frozen Zone only served to incite them to new encounters. No vision of " sunny fountains rolling down their golden sands," or ambition for conquest and usurped power filled their minds ; but 'the love of adventure, the advancement of science, and the holier impulses of humanity, were the lodestones which drew them toward the Pole.

To chronicle faithfully and in an attractive manner the brilliant achievements of these adventurous spirits, and to present, incidentally, graphic pictures of Life and Nature in the Realms of Frost, is the object of this book. In it, culled from scores of volumes of Arctic literature,^are condensed the fascinating records of a thousand years. While no important expedition, nor even the experience of whalers, has been overlooked, prominence has been given to the most interesting ones, and when practicable the stoiy is told in the explorers' own words.

"At her feet the Frozen Ocean, round her head the Auroral Lights^ In her bride-veil, fringed with icicles and of the snow-drift spun, Sits the "White Ladye of the Pole, still waiting to be won.

What suitors for her palace gates have hoisted daring sail.

Though eye of man has never seen the face behind the veil !

So long sighed for, so hard served for, as this Queen, was never none»

Since the days of brave adventure and true service first begun.

But still the white Witch-Maiden that sits above the Pole, In the snow-bound silence whose cold quells aught but soul, Draws manly hearts with strange desire to lift her icy veil ; The bravest still have sought her, and will seek, whoever fail.* ,

Contents

PAOB SKETCH OF THE LIFE OP DR. KANE , 1

CHAPTER!.

THE AKCTIC REGIONS.

Chapter II. Early Discoveries And Histort

The Scandinavian Mariners and their Voyages — Discovery of Iceland — Eric the Red — Discovery of Greenland — The Northmen in America — Northern Voyage of Columbus — Story of the early Greenland Settlers — War and Pestilence — Search for the lost Colonists — Hans Egede — The Moravian Missions — A Visit to Lichtenfels — The native Greenlanders — The Cabots and their Voyages^-The Labrador Colony — French and Portuguese Explorers 23

Chapter III. English Expeditions To The North-east

Expedition under Sir Hugh Willoughby — A Storm oflFthe North Cape — Nova Zembla Scenery — A Winter on the Lapland Coast — Fate of the Explorers — Chancelor's Visit to Moscow — The Searchthrift and her Cruise — English Adventurers in Asia — Lake Baikal — Pet and Jackson — Mistakes of a Geographer 40

Chapter IV. Dtttch Expeditions To The North-east

Wm. Barentz— The Orange Islands— Noosing a Bear— The Cape of Idols — Second Expedition — A Russian Craft — Among the Samoiedes — Corneliz Ryp — Discovery of Bear Islands and Spitzbergen — Imprisoned — Building a House — Life at Icy Port — A Winter of Hardships — Feast of the Kings — The Ship Deserted— Icy Ramparts — Death of Barentz 47

VI CONTENTS.

Chapter V. Arctic Totages Of Frobisher And Dati8

Early English Adventurers— Martin Frobisher— " Meta Incognita" — Fight with Esquimaux— Relics of lost Sailors— Female Prisoners- Treachery of the Natives— Frobisher's third Expedition— A Storm — TheExpedition Astray— "All is not Gold that Glitters "—Sir Humphrey Gilbert— Loss of the " Squirrel"— John Davis— The " Land of Desolation" — A Greenland Dance — Voyage with the Mermaid — Esquimaux Incantations— Excursion to the Interior — The Sailors' "Warning — ^Desertion of Ships 59

Chapter VI. Arctic Voyages Op Henry Hudson And Others

Weymouth's Expedition — A cowardly Crew — Fate of Capt. Knight — An Esquimaux Attack — Hudson's Polar Voyage— A Mermaid— Voyage in the Half-moon — Hudson's last Voyage — Trouble with the Sailors — Discovery — In Winter-quarters — Mutiny — The Tragedy in Hudson's Bay — Adventures of the Mutineers 85

CHAPTER VIL

ARCTIC VOYAGES OF BAFFIN AND OTHERS. ^,

Button and Bylot — Capt. Gibbons' Adventure — Baffin's early Voyages — Memorable Discoveries — Fotherby's Voyage — Danish Expedition — Munk's disastrous Voyage — The Fox and James Expedition — A Winter of Suffering— Final Escape — A lost Expedition — Heme— • Mackenzie — Phipps — Cook 105

Chapter VIII. The Arctic Whale-fishery

Early Fishing Expedition — The Spitzbergen Seas — Adventures of Captain Edge —Dutch Enterprise — A Winter in Spitzbergen — An Arctic Tragedy — ^Years of Peril — The Whales' Paradise — Sliip wrecks — Memorials of the Hollanders 122

Chapter IX. The Arctic Whale-fishery. (continued.)

Whale Catching in Baffin's Bay — Disasters in Melville Bay — "Baffin's Pair " — ^Yankee Whalemen — The Dundee Whaling Steamers — Rescue of the Polaris Crew 136

Chapter X. Cruise Op The Isabella And Alexander

Ross and Parry's Expedition — On the Greenland Coast — A Secluded Race — Esquimaux Ideas of a Ship — The Arctic Highlanders — Signal , of Return 141

CONTENTS. VU

CHAPTER XL

CRtriSE OF THE HECLA AND GRIPER.

Parry and Liddon Expedition — Entering Lancaster Sound — Hopes and Disappointments — Dreary Shores — The Reward Earned — Winter-quarters and Amusements — The North Georgian Tlieatre — Fire! Fire !— A Break-up— A successful Expedition 151

Chapter XII. Cruise Of The Fury And Hecla

Parry and Lyon's Expedition — The Savage-Islanders — Repulse Bay — Frozen in — Thieving Natives — " Tlie Rivals " — "The Merry Dancers" — Esquimaux Neighbors Discovered — Astonishing the Natives — An Excursion — A Fight with Walrus — Stopped by Ice — Again Frozen in — A cheering Spectacle — The fair Esquimaux — An Esquimaux Magician — Parry's third Expedition 163

CHAPTER XIIL

VOYAGE OF THE DOROTHEA AND TRENT.

Buchan and Franklin's Expedition — The Rendezvous at Magdalena Bay — An Avalanche — On the Edge of the Ice — A Dangerous Position — Escape to Fair Haven 181

Chapter XIV

franklin's first land EXPEDITION.

Arrival at York Factory — Perils of River Navigation — A Winter's Journey — Testing a Conjurer's Skill — Indian Customs— Interview with, Akaitcho — The Winter at Fort Enterprise — Reception of a Chief — Down the Coppermine River — Bloody Falls — Encounter with Esquimaux — Voyage on the Polar Sea — The Return Journey commenced; — Crossing a River — Exciting Adventures — Building a Canoe — Separation of the Men — Junius missing — A Deserted Fort — Starvation: — Life at Fort Enterprise 184

Chapter XV

franklin's first land EXPEDITION (CONTINUED.)

Dr. Richardson's Narrative — Suspicious Conduct of Michel — The Murder of Hood— Richardson Shoots Michel— The Retreat to tlie Fort- Arrival of Indians— Relief at Hand— The Journey to Fort York 218

Chapter XVI

franklin's second land EXPEDITION.

The Rendezvous at Great Bear Lake— The Winter at Fort Franklin— At the Mouth of the Mackenzie— The Expedition in Trouble— Contest with the Esquimaux — A Brave Interpreter — Voyage along the Coast — Second Winter at Fort Franklin ... 231.

■VUl CONTENTS.

CHAPTEK XVII.

ARCTIC VOYAGES OF LYONS, BEECHY, AND OTHERS.

Scoresby's Discoveries — Excursion on Jan Mayen — Among the Mountains — APerilous Descent — Deserted Habitations — Cruise of the Griper — Sabine's Researches in High Latitudes — On the East Greenland Coast— Scientific Problems Solved— Lyon's Second Voyage — The Snow-bunting — Bay of God's Mercy — Beechey's Expedition — Approach to- Kamchatka — The Lawrence Islanders — Customs of the Alaskans — Wreck of the Barge — Skirmishes with the Natives 238

CHAPTER XVIII. parry's polar voyage.

The Hecla and Her Outfit— In Treurenberg Bay— The Start for the Pole — A Journey on Ice — Drifting South — A Hopeless Undertaking — Hecla Cove 255

CHAPTER XIX.

EXPEDITION OP JOHN AND JAMES C. ROSS. •

Expedition of John and James C. Ross — The Victory — Life at Holsteinberg — Arrival at Fury Beach — Frozen In — Winter at Felix Harbor — • King William's Land — Discovery of the Magnetic Pole — The Victory Deserted — Voyage in Open Boats — Rescued by the Isabella — Return of the Lost Explorers 261

CHAPTER XX.

GEORGE back's EXPEDITIONS.

Overland through Canada — Woman's Rights at Norway House — The Batteaux and Canoes — Indian Summer Encampments — "Raising the Devil" — Sad Fate of Augustus — Running the Rapids — A Desolate Region — Voyage in the Terror — Fearful Ice-drift 278

CHAPTER XXI.

LAND EXPEDITIONS OP DEASE, SIMPSON, AND RAE.

A Winter's Journey — On the Coasts of Alaska — Down Escape Rapids — Winter-Quarters on Great Bear Lake— Return to Red River Settlement — Simpson Murdered — Dr. Rae's Explorations 288

CHAPTER XXII.

franklin's LAST VOYAGE, WITH A SKETCH OF HIS LIFE.

Birth and Education — Early Passion for the Sea — A Midshipman at Trafalgar — ^At Battle of New Orleans — Arctic Voyages— Governor of Van Dieman's Land — The Erebus and Terror — A Lost Expedition. . . 296

CHAPTER XXIII.

SEARCHES FOR FRANKLIN.

Expeditions of 1848 — Voyage of Ross to Lancaster Sound — Overland Search by Richardson and Rae — The Herald and Plover 304

CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTEE XXIV.

Austin's Squadron— Discoveries at Beechey Island — Sledge Expedition Carrier Pigeons — Cruise of the Prince Albert — The Lady Franklin. . 310

CHAPTER XXV.

CoIIinson and McClure's Expedition — Cruise of the Investigator — On the Coast of the Continent— Up Prince of Wales Strait— Frozen in— Discovery of a North-vrest Passage — A Night Adventure— Life at Mercy Bay— McClintock's Cairn— Third Winter in the Ice— Relief at Hand —Visit of Lieut. Pira— The Ship Deserted— Retreat to the Resolute- Cruise of the Enterprise— Recent Death of McClure 317

CHAPTER XXVI.

Second Cruise of the Prince Albert— Party Separated from the Ship — A Night at Cape Seppings— Bellot's Rescue Party— Winter at Batty Bay — A Visit to Fury Beach — Somerset House 332

CHAPTER XXVII.

Expeditions of 1852 — Belcher's Squadron — News of McClure — Pirn's Journey to Mercy Bay — Kellett's Adventures — Abandonment of the Ships — Return to England 339

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Inglefield's Voyages — Cruise of the Phoenix and Lady Franklin — Death of Bellot — Lieut. Cresswell — Dr. Rae at Repulse Bay 345

CHAPTER XXIX.

THE FIRST AMERICAN EXPEDITION.

The Advance and Rescue — Oflf Newfoundland — The Arctic Day — Crown Prince Islands — Kayaks 349

CHAPTER XXX.

THE FIRST AMERICAN EXPEDITION. (CONTINUED.)

Iceberg Scenery — Wonders of Refraction — Arctic Navigation — Bergs — A Race — A Pinch — Animal Life — Frozen Families 372

CHAPTER XXXI.

THE FIRST AMERICAN EXPEDITION. (CONTINUED.)

The Crimson Cliffs — An Arctic Garden — Trapping the Auks— Good-bye to Baffin — Franklin's Encampment Discovered — The Graves 399

X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXII.

THE FIRST AMEEICAN EXPEDITION. (CONTINUED.)

Visit to the Eesolute — The Rendezvous — A Gale — Order for Return — Frozen in — Driftii;g — Fighting the Enemy — The Aurora — Crisis — A Race of Pale Faces — Midnight of the Year — Returning Light 428

CHAPTER XXXIII.

THE FIRST AMERICAN EXPEDITION. (CONTINUED.)

A Gale — An Escape — Floating Bears— Esquimaux Guests — A Night Scene — In an Ice Trap — The Escape — The Governor's Mansion — The Feast — Feats of the Kayaker — Conclusion 478

CHAPTER XXXIV.

DR. KANe's SECOND EXPEDITION.

Rensselaer Harbor — Camp on the Floes — Sudden Alarm — The Rescue Party — The Wanderers Found — A Bivouac — Esquimaux Visitors — Death of Baker — Adventures of Morton and Hans — Signal Cairn — The Record — The Arrest — The Punishment — Our Wild Allies — Hunting Excursion — Esquimaux Homestead — A Bear Fight •. 519

CHAPTER XXXV.

DR. KANE'S SECOND EXPEDITION. (CONTINUED.)

The Cabin by Night — The Hut in a Storm — Hans Discouraged — Day Dreams — Joyful News — A Sun Worshiper — Famine at Etah — A Walrus Hunt — The Delectable Mountains — A Deserter — A Morning in the Cabin — Shunghu's Daughter — A Noble Savage — Enterprising Hunters 572

CHAPTER XXXVI.

DR. KANE's SECOND EXPEDITION. (CONTINUED.)

Farewell to the Brig — Approach to Etah — A Midnight Festival — A Crystal Palace — At the Open Water — Good-bye to Esquimaux — Embarkation — Weary Man's Rest — The Esquimaux Eden — Lost Among Bergs — " The Seal ! " — Terra Firma .'—The Welcome 604

CHAPTER XXXVII.

THE HARTSTENB RELIEF EXPEDITION.

Narrative of John K. Kane. 635

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

franklin's fate DISCOVERED.

Dr. Rae's Discoveries — The Fox Expedition — Franklin's Monument — Winter in Bellot Strait — McClintock's Discoveries — The Cairn at Point Victory — Crozier's Record — A Buried Boat— Return of the Fox — Relics of Franklin — The Story of the Lost Expedition 641

CONTENTS. Xi

CHAPTER XXXIX.

ARCTIC SIBERIA AND ITS EXPLORKRS.

Siberian Exiles — Voyage of Deshnef — Bering's Discoveries — Chelyuskin's Explorations — The New Siberia Islands — Anjou's Travels — Wrangell's Explorations — Skill of Siberian Sledge-drivers — The " Great Russian Polynia " — The Lower Yenisei 663

CHAPTER XL.

TRAVELS IN ALASKA.

The Aleutian Islands — Expeditions of Dall and Whymper — Up the Yukon — A Winter at Nulato — The Alaskans — Sitka 676

CHAPTER XLI.

DR. HAYES' EXPEDITION.

The Voyage to Smith Sound — Winter at Port Foulke — Sledge Journey — Grinnell Land — Cape Lieber — Return 682

CHAPTER XLII.

SKETCH OF CHARLES F. HALL, AND HIS EARLIER ARCTIC TRAVELS.

Early Life — Proposes to Search for Eranklin — Secures Passage in a Whaler — Captain Buddington — The "George Henry" — Frozen in at Field's Bay — Visit from Ebierbing and Tookoolito — Excursions — Frobisher Relics — "Fisherman's Luck" — Second Winter in the Ice — Return Home — Second Journey to the North — The Monticello — Residence on the Northern Coasts of Hudson's Bay — A visit to King William's Land — Relics of Franklin's Expedition 686

CHAPTER XLIII.

THE POLARIS EXPEDITION.

Captain Hall's Plans — The Polaris and her Crew — Sketch of Officers — On the Greenland Coast — Disco — The Expedition at Upernavik — At Tessuisak — HaU's Good-bye to Civilization ; . . 696

CHAPTER XLIV.

THB POLARIS EXPEDITION. (CONTINUED.)

Adrift on the Floes— Off the Labrador Coast — A Fearful Position — Signaling the Tigress — Rescued — Startling News from the Polaris — The Castaways at St. John's— Suspicions — The "Frolic" — At Washington . 706

CHAPTER XLV.

THE POLARIS EXPEDITION. (CONTINUED.)

The Polaris in High Latitude— Thank God Harbor— Hall's Journey to the North- Hall's Last Dispatch— Death of Hall— Joe's Story- Funeral of Captain Hall— The Winter at Polaris Bay— Outside of the Ship — Returning Day — Bear Hunting — Excursions to tlie North — Separation from the Polaris — The Drift Southward— The Rescue — Joe and Hans 711

Xii ' CUNTE^s^TS.

CHAPTER XLVI.

THE POLARIS EX' EKIIION (CONTINUED).

Journal of Herman Siemans, a Seaman of the Steamer Polaris 751

CHAPTER XLVII.

THE POLARIS EXPEDITION. (CONTINUED.)

Diary of John Herron, One of the Pohiris Ice-drift Party 760

CHAPTER XLVIII.

POLARIS SEARCH AND RELEIF EXPEDITIONS.

Cruise of the Juniata and Tigress — The Little Juniata — The Tigress on

the Trail — Buddington's Camp— Signaling the Juniata at Night 769

CHAPTER XLIX.

THE POLARIS EXPEDITION (CONCLUDED.) Captain's Buddington's Narrative— The Polaris Wrecked and Deserted — Preparing for Winter — Visit from the Natives — The Winter at Life- Boat Cove — The Start Homeward — Rescued by the Ravenscraig 776

CHAPTER L.

GERMAN AHCTIC KXPEDIT0N8.

Koldewey's Expedition— Loss of the "Hansa" — Cruise of the "Ger

mania" — Payers Expedition — Cruise of the " Tegethoff" 787

CHAPTER LI.

SWEDISH AND NORWEGIAN EXPEDITIONS.

Captain Carlsen's Voyage — Relics of Dutch Explorers — Nordenskiold's Expedition to Spitzbergen — Winter at Mussel Bay — Startling News — The Ice-Bound Eishermenand Their Fate — Nordenskiold's Expedition to the Yenisei — Life in Siberia — A Second Voyage 793

CHAPTER LIL

THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION OF 1875 — 76.

The Alert and Discovery — OflScers and Crew — In High Latitude — The Arctic Night — Polaris Bay Revisited — Captain Hall's Grave — An Exciting Day — Markham's North Pole Party— On the Palaeocrystic Sea — The Turning Point — Death of a Seaman — The Return Journey — The Western Exploring Party — Explorations in Greenland. . . . 801 CHAPTER LlII

nordenskiold's DISCOVERY OF A NORTH-EAST PASSAGE.

Sketch of the Explorer — The Vega and Her Crew — Dickson Harbor — Rounding of Cape Chelyuskin — Arrival at the Lena — Navigation of River — Frozen In — The Winter Harbor — Li e amid the Ice — The Tchuktches— Auroral Phenomena — The Release — Homeward Voyage 817 CHAPTER LIV.

DE long's north POLE EXPEDITION — THE JEANNEXTE.

An Arctic Expedition Decided on by James Gordon Bennett — Purchase of the Pandora — The Jeannette— At Mare Island— Officers and Crew — Objects of the Expedition — Departure of the Expedition — San Francisco's Good-bye to the Jeannette — At Ounalaska, St. Michael's, and St. Lawrence Bay — Last Words from the Explorers — Missing Whalers— The Relief Steamer Corwin 837

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Pagb.

1 The Polaeis in High Latitudbs, {Frontispiece.)

2 POBTBAIT OF Dr. EANS, 1

3 House in Havana where Db. Eanb Died, 10

4 The Rescue 18

5 Portrait op Sm John Franklin, 19

6 Scene on the Greenland Coast, 25

7 View op Fiskernaes, Greenland, 33

8 Moravian Settlement at Lichtenpels, 33

9 Ships Among Bergs, 39

10 Winter in Moscow, 44

11 Ships Entangled m Ice, 46

12 Lake Baikal, Eastern Siberia, 47

13 Votive Cross and Midnight Sun — Northern Eussia, 58

14 The Land of Desolation, 73

15 Freighted Iceberg, 73

16 The Middle Pack, 81

17 A Sketch, 84

18 Esquimaux Dog-Teams, 93

19 Esquimaux Snow-Houses, 93

20 Arctic Aurora, 109

21 View on the Spitzbergen Coast, 109

22 Approaching Winter— James' Bat, 115

23 Arctic Parhelia, 115

24 The Ice-Bound Harbor, 116

25 The Katakee in a Gale, 121

26 A Whaling Scene, 141

27 Katak and Oomiak, 143

28 Whalers Stopped bt the Pack, 143

29 An Ice Cathedral, 144

30 Cape Isabella 147

31 Cape Alexander, 147

32 Track op the Hecla and Griper, 157

33 Parry's Ships in Winter Quarters, 157

84 Stranded, 162

35 The " Mebrt Dancers," 167

36 Watching for Indian Horse-Thieves, 188

37 Hunting on Snow-Shoes, 191

38 Disguised Buffalo Hunters, 191

39 Hunters' Winter Camp, 200

40 A Hungry Explorer, 217

41 Overland Explorers, 230

42 A Station of the Hudson's Bat Company, 231

43 The Mariner's Compass, 237

44 Petropaulski, Kamchatka, 250

45 honet-combfd icebbbo, 254

XIV ILLUSTRATIONS.

46 Jack AiTO His "Deer," , S60

47 An Ice Bridge, , 277

48 Indian Summer Encampment, 280

49 Moose Hunting in Canoes, 280

50 A Lead Through the Floe, 287

51 Winter Couriers of the FurCompant, 288

52 Eroded Berg, 309

53 Hummocks, 316

54 Beechet Island, , 340

55 The Ice-Babbier, 340

56 The Advance and Rescue at Navt Yard, 353

57 Our First Iceberg, 353

58 The Sukkertoppen, 359

59 Entering Disco, 359

60 Disco Huts, 360

61 Inspectors' House, Lievelt, ; 369

62 Among the Bergs, 369

63 Group of Seals, 370

64 Iceberg 371

65 Glaciers of Jacob's Bight, 373

66 In a Fog, 373

67 Tracking, 381

68 Katacks, 381

69 Woman's Boat, 388

70 The Devil's Thumb, 394

71 Mblvillb Bat, 394

72 Esquimaux on Snow-Shoes, :< 398

73 Looking for Water, 403

74 Bessie's Cove, 403

75 The Advance in February, 465

76 Winter in the Pack, 465

77 Bird's-Etb View of Ice-Floe, 484

78 Esquimaux Beauties, 489

79 The Governor's Sons, 493

80 Saluting the Provenese, 495

81 Good-Bte to the Prince Albert, 499

82 Interior of a Native Hut, Upernavik, 499

83 The Governor's Mansion, 506

84 Harpooning Seals, 517

85 Fastened to an Iceberg, 521

86 Parting Hawsers, 521

87 Sylvia Headland— Inspecting a Harbor, 527

88 The Advance Frozen in at Rensselaer Harbor, 527

89 In the Tent, 533

90 PiNNACLY Berg, 533

91 The Rescue Party, 534

92 Loading the Faith, 543

93 First Meeting with Esquimaux, • 543

94 Tent on the Floes, 549

95 The Bear in Camp, 549

96 Gathering Moss, 549

97 Morton and Hans Entering Kennedy Channel, 553

98 Morton and Hans Leaving the Channel, 553

99 Kennedy Channel, 561

100 View from Cape Constitution, 561

101 An Esquimaux Homestead, 567

102 Wild Dog Team, 567

103 Arctic Moonlight, 573

ILLUSTRATIONS. XV

104 The Ice-Foot Canopt 673

105 The Brig in hbb Winter Cradle, 579

106 Approaching the Deserted Hut, 579

107 The Open Water, 579

108 Arctic Sba-Gulls, 585

109 EiDBR Island Ducks, 585

110 The Walrus Hunter, 591

111 The Atluk. or Seal-Hole, 599

112 Shooting Seal, 599

113 Walrus Sporting, 599

115 Greenland Children Playing Ball, 609

116 Catching Auks, 609

117 Boat -Camp in a Storm, 617

118 Good-bte to the Esquimaux, 617

119 Birds op Providence Cliffs, 627

120 Passing the Crimson Cliffs, 627

121 Cape Welcome, 633

122 Our First Kayak, 633

123 The Faith, : 634

124 A Small Water Party, 639

125 Discovery of Franklin's Cairn, 648

126 Relics op the Lost Explorers, 648

127 The Erebus and Terror in the Ice-Stream, 657

128 Funeral op Sib John Franklin, 657

129 APoLAR Bear Picnic, 662

130 Exiles En route fob Siberia, 663

131 A Siberian Port, 675

132 Traveling in Kamchatka, 676

133 Aleutians Catching Whales, 676

134 Fort Nulato, Alaska— Auroral Light, 679

135 A Deer Corral, 681

136 View op Sitka, Alaska, 682

137 Portrait op Captain Charles F. Hall, 698

138 Portrait op Captain S. O. Buddington, 698

139 Portrait op Captain George E. Tyson, 698

140 Signaling the Tigress, 706

141 Funeral op Captain Hall, at Polaris Bay, 718

142 A Bear Hunt 730

143 Meeting op the Floes, 749

144 Formation op Hummocks, 768

145 Life on the Drifting Ice-Field, 769

146 Portraits op Joe, Hannah, and Sylvia, 772

147 The Hansa Crushed— Escape of the Crew, 787

148 Count Wilczec in Nova Zembla 791

149 Relics op the Dutch Expedition, 793

150 Barentz's House at Ice Haven, 793

And Twenty Smaller Engravings;

MAFS, Etc.

CracuMPOLAB Map, 1

Map op the American Arctic Sea, 23

Ancient Map op Spitzbergen, 126

Chart op the Whale-Fish Islands, 366

Chart Showing the Discoveries op Kane, Hates, and Hall, 640

Fac bqiilbs, 649-650

/TV'

/sa

^0 so so

A SKETCH OF THE LIFE OF

ELISHA KENT KANE, M.D., U. S. N.,

PROP. CHARLES "W. SHIELDS, D. D., OF PRINCETON COLLEGE, N. J.

The Life of Dr. Kane is already a fireside tale. Every one is familiar witli it as the story of a young knight-errant of philanthropy and science, who traversed nearly the whole surface of the globe, within the short period of fourteen years ; who gathered here and there a laurel from every walk of physical research in which he strayed ; who plunged into the thick of perilous adventure, abstracting in the spirit of philosophy, yet seeing with the eye of poesy, and loving with the heart of humanity ; who penetrated, under such impulses, even to the Northern pole of the planet and remained secluded amidst the horrors of two Arctic winters ; who returned like one come back from another world, to invest the very story of his escape with the charms of literature and art, and transport us, by his graphic pen, into scenes we scarcely realize as belonging to the earth we inhabit ; and who died at length, in the flush of his manhood and the morning of his fame, lamented by his country and the world.

To write the story of such a life as it should be written, would be impossible within the limits assigned to this memoir, and nothing more, therefore, will be here attempted than such a sketch as may serve to introduce this new edition of his works to the reader. As we trace the usual biographical themes, though in the briefest manner, it will be found that his origin and education, the leading events in his career, the prominent traits of his character, his public services, and his private life and last moments, together yield an impression which is suited at once to justify his fame and perpetuate the lessons he has left to the world. -I

2 LIFE OF DE. KANE.

Elisha Kent Kane, the leader in the American search for Sir John Franklin, was born in Philadelphia, Feb. 3, A. D. 1820. He received the name of his grandfather, who had himself been named after his maternal grandfather, the Reverend Elisha Kent, of " Kent's Parish," N. Y., and he was baptized by his uncle, the Reverend Jacob J. Janeway, D. D., then pastor of the Second Presbyterian Church, which his parents attended.

On the father's side he was descended from Colonel John Kane, of the British Army, his great-grandfather, who came from Ireland to the colony of New York about the year 1756, retired to Dutchess County, and there married Miss Sybil Kent, daughter of the clergyman above named, and aunt of Chancellor Kent. His grandfather, Elisha K. Kane, was a successful merchant in Albany and New York, who married Miss Alida Van Rensselaer, daughter of General Robert Van Rensselaer, of Claverack, and subsequently removed to Philadelphia. His father, the late Hon. John K. Kane, a graduate of Yale College, and successively a member of the Philadelphia bar, Attorney-General of the State, and Judge of the United States Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania, was well known as an acute and learned jurist within his profession, as an influential statesman of the old school of politics, an active promoter of the arts, sciences, and charities in Philadelphia, an accomplished scholar in classical and English literature, and a courtly gentleman in society. And the culture, efficiency, and tact which distinguished him in every relation of life were not wanting in his honored son.

On the mother's side he was descended from Thomas Leiper, a younger son of a Scotch family of French origin, who came in search of fortune about the year 1764, to the colony of Virginia, and thence to Pennsylvania; built extensive mills near Philadelphia; aided in forming the First City Troop, and served with distinguished gallantry in the battles of Trenton and Princeton ; united, after the war, with his warm personal friend. President Jefferson, in organizing the political party which looked to him for its leader ; and as a zealous advocate of public improvements, laid down the first experimental railway constructed in the United States. He married Miss Elizabeth Coltas Gray, the daughter of the Hon. George Gray, of Gray's Ferry, and of Martha Ibbetson Gray, whose generous services in nursing the sick and wounded prisoners during the occupation of Philadelphia by Lord Howe, attracted public testimonials from both parties. Their daughter, Jane Duval Leiper, as Mrs. Kane, illustrated the traits proverbial in the mothers of great men by combining with the virtues of the Spartan matron, that energy, nerve, elasticity, and warm-heartedness which became famous in her son.

On both sides, his ancestry in this country, it will be seen, dates before the American Revolution, being derived in the paternal line from Ireland, Holland, and England, and in the maternal line from Scotland, England, and France, while the corresponding religions blended in it were the Episcopalian, Dutch Reformed, and Congregational, with the Presbyterian, Quaker, Methodist, and Moravian. And the names which it embraces are here mentioned, not merely because he has himself written them, with a just pride, upon the map of the Arctic seas, but also as serving to explain that rare combination of varied and even opposite elements of race, of creed, and of culture, which entered into the formation of his character.

When Mr. Kane and Miss Leiper first met, they were in the prime of youthful strength and beauty ; and after a courtship, the romance of which has become a family tradition, they were married, April 20, 1819. Elisha was the eldest of their children. Three other sons and a married daughter are still living.

In Dr. Kane, as in most men who achieve greatness, the boy foreshadowed the man. Arctic explorations were prefigured by juvenile feats of daring and contrivance. His biographer relates that when but a child, he scaled the roof by moonlight with his younger brother, while the family were asleep, feeling repaid for the perilous adventure by the "grand view" from the chimney-top. Traits which afterwards shone out before the world, already appeared in the school-room and on the playground, where he became a spirited little champion of the weak and oppressed, repelling imposition from any quarter with uncalculating courage, and yet as quick to forgive as to resent an injury. His tastes, too, began to show the bias of coming years. He had his own small cabinet of minerals, birds, and insects, and his chemical laboratory, the latter to the frequent alarm of the household — and his favorite books were Robinson Crusoe and Pilgrim's Progress.

But if it is easy now to trace the beginnings of his career, it was not so easy then to forecast it. Fonder of sports than of books, full of generous but ill-regulated impulses, and impatient of control, his course as yet was like that of a mountain torrent which has not found and made its channel ; and it was only when he began by his own efforts to retrieve his neglected education, that parental anxiety was relieved.

His father would have had him follow in his own footsteps at Yale ; but his inclination was more towards science than learning, and the

4 LIFE OF DE. KANE.