The world we live in

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Preface

Few persons have opportunities of extensive travel, at least in foreign lands ; yet all are more or less interested in " The World we Live In," and desire to form some acquaintance with its diversified scenery and inhabitants. Hence books of travels, when fresh and vivid, are always perused with interest and delight. These, however, are not only quite numerous, but often rare and expensive. Besides, they usually treat only of some particular country, or tract of country, and enter into minute details, with which general readers have little or no sympathy.

It has been thought, therefore, that a work within the reach of all, and containing, in a comprehensive form, some account of the principal countries of the globe, their natural scenery and resources, with the character and customs of their inhabitants, would meet the wants of a large class of readers.

By combining the results of observation and reading, the author, at the suggestion of the enterprising publishers, has composed, and, he might say, in part compiled, the following work. For much of it, relating to countries which he has not personally visited, must necessarily possess the character of a compilation. He has spent years, indeed, both in Europe and America ; he has also traveled somewhat extensively, especially in the older portions of the world, and has thus written a considerable part of the work from personal observation. Yet he wishes it to be distinctly understood, that he has felt it his duty to avail himself quite freely of the published travels of others, especially of those which are the most recent and successful.

Important and interesting discoveries, those, for example, of Catherwood, Layard, Lepsius, and others, have been made in

4 PKEFACE.

geography and antiquities. Books of travels, some of great value, have recently multiplied to an unprecedented extent ; so that hundreds and even thousands of volumes of this description have appeared within a few years in Europe and the United States. Singular and startling changes, also, have occurred, in the civil and political condition of the nations, casting some into shadow, and pushing others into greater prominence. The relations of the different portions of the world are coming into closer union, and a new and more glorious "future" is dawning upon the race.

But every country has certain salient points, certain grand features and leading aims, which determine its peculiar character and position among the nations. The attempt, therefore, has been made, in this volume, not only to give a comprehensive survey of the natural and moral condition of the world at large, but to sketch each particular country, with as much brevity and truthfulness as the author could command. Of course many things are necessarily left out ; in some instances the information communicated is, doubtless, slight and superficial ; but an honest endeavor has been made to give a faithful, though not elaborate portrait. After all, a few rough sketches will often give the features of a face, of a landscape, or of a community better than the most detailed and elaborate description. We do not, indeed, ourselves claim to have done this ; we have simply made the effort. But outlines and etchings must not be judged by the same rules as complete and finished pictures-.

There is an advantage, however, of no trifling character, in possessing a manual, which may enable us, without confusion, to take a single and comprehensive survey of the nations which compose the " World we Live In," and, by means of comparison and contrast, to form a just estimate of each and all, in their relations to one another and to the whole. Such a book would hold to books of travel generally much the same relation which a terrestrial globe, of ordinary dimensions, holds to a large collection of individual maps. Even the traveler and scholar might find it no

PREFACE. 5

disadvantage to consult such a work. By this means the natural and moral condition of the world, and, in particular, its progress in art, civilization, science, and religion can be more readily estimated.

Still, the author has not written for critics and amateurs ; he has little or nothing to communicate to them ; indeed, he cannot reasonably expect this volume to be honored with their notice. He has written for the people ; for ingenuous young persons who wish to improve their minds ; for busy merchants and mechanics ; and for such professional men as do not possess the time or the means for extensive travel, or multifarious reading in this department of literature.

The idea of a tour has, as much as possible, been preserved. The author has endeavored to take his readers along with him, as his traveling companions, and assisted them to see, if not with their own eyes, at least with their own imaginations, the diversified panorama of national scenery, character, costume, and usage. Should he succeed in communicating any interesting information, or suggesting any good thoughts, or exciting any generous or even pleasant impulses, he will feel himself abundantly rewarded.

Haktfokd, Conn.

Contents

tiHAPTKR. Page.

I. America . 9

n. The United States 22

CHAPTER I. Landing of Columbus

Landing of the Pilgrims.

In the year of our Lord 1492, amid the calm and sunshine of October weather, three small vessels, of antique form, with high poop and stern, and only one of them decked, were ploughing the waves of a southern sea. They had been sailing many weary days and nights due west, in a part of the ocean then unknown, with many doubts and fears on the part of the officers and men, though with high hope and indomitable courage on the part of the commander of the expedition. It seemed to them, as they gazed and

1* gazed, morning, noon, and night, on the vast and solitary expanse of waters, that they were leaving forever the abodes of man, and passing into a shoreless abyss. In the early part of their journey they had been sadly frightened by the smoking peak of Teneriffe, and a few days after by the fact, never till then observed, that the magnetic needle in the ship's compass varied from its ordinary direction, as if the different points of the compass were beginning to be confounded ! Occasionally, indeed, they were cheered by the flight of beautiful birds, and masses of sea-weed driven, as they supposed, from some rocky shore ; and once or twice they imagined they saw land at a distance. But they had been deceived again and again, and their souls died within them with doubt and fear. Nay, they had even threatened sedition against their commander, and secretly vowed to cast him overboard, and so return to their native land. But their fears had been soothed, their doubts dissipated, and their spirit of rebellion checked by the kindness and decision of that indomitable spirit who, with a faith which seemed more than mortal, resolved to press on toward the setting sun, assured that upon those unknown and untraversed seas they would reach the golden regions of which he had dreamed for many years. He had commenced the journey with solemn religious rites, and believed that he was to be the agent, under the providence of God, in the accomplishment of a glorious destiny.

On the 25th of September, while Columbus and his officers were diligently studying their maps in order to make out their position, a shout was heard from the Pinta — the name of one of the ships — and on looking up they beheld Martin Alonzo Pinzon mounted on the stern of the vessel, who shouted, with a loud voice — " Land ! land ! Senor, I claim my reward !"* pointing to the southwest, in which land seemed to loom upon the vision at a distance of about twenty-five leagues. Columbus fell upon his knees and gave thanks to the Almighty, and Martin Alonzo repeated the Gloria in Excelsis, in which he was loudly joined by the crews of the ships, amounting in all to about a hundred men. Changing their course they sailed all night in the direction indicated, straining their eyes to catch the first view of the longwished-for land. But, alas ! it was only a false appearance, caused by clouds resting on the dim edge of the horizon, which vanished with the light of early day.

The crews relapsed into their former state of discontent and

* A pension of thirty crowns, which had been promised, by the sovereigns of Spain, to the first man who should discover land.

AjMEEICA. 11 despondency ; but the great multitude of birds flying about the ships, floating masses of sea- weed, and other signs of land, kept them from utter despair. Columbus alone remained calm and self-possessed. His serene and lofty spirit rose above difficulty and danger, and, like the Christian with reference to the heavenly Canaan, descried "the promised land," though yet invisible to mortal eye.

On the evening of the 6th of October, Martin Alonzo Pinzon, commander of the Pinta, began to lose confidence in the course they were steering, and proposed that they should stand to the southward. But Columbus had made up his mind to the issue, and persisted in steering directly west. Land again seemed to break upon their vision, but they said nothing of it, for they feared disappointment — and again it passed away, like the early cloud and the morning dew. Guided by the flight of birds — to which the ancient mariners attached much importance — Columbus changed his course in a southwesterly direction. For three days they stood in that direction, encouraged by the signs of land. Flights of small, colored birds, some of them such as sing in the fields and woods, flying about the ship, encouraged them to proceed. Tunny-fish, not usually found far from shore, played about in the smooth, translucent sea. A heron, a duck, and a pelican were seen, all moving toward the southwest. Green herbage, as if recently from the land, floated by, and the air " was sweet and fragrant as April breezes in Seville."

But the crews, who imagined that they had passed between islands, left behind them perhaps forever, grew mutinous, and insisted on abandoning the voyage and returning home. Columbus was firm as a rock, and told them that it was useless to murmur ; " that the expedition had been sent by the sovereigns to seek the Indies, and, happen what might, he was resolved to persevere, until, by the blessing of God, he should accomplish the enterprise."

Fortunately for him, the indications of land became every hour more and more decisive. Besides a quantity of fresh weeds, they saw fish of a greenish hue, which keep about rocks, and, above all, a branch of thorn with berries on it, recently separated from the tree ; then a reed, a small board, and a staff, artificially carved, which they picked up with inexpressible delight.

Gloom and mutiny again gave way to sanguine expectation, and throughout the whole day every one was on the watch, in the hope of catching the first glimpse of land.

In the evening, when the sailors had sung the Salve Regina, or evening hymn, to the Virgin, Columbus made an impressive address to his crew, exhorting them to fidelity and obedience, and intimating that they would probably see land before the morning wateh. He ordered a steady look-out from the forecastle, and promised to him who should make the first discovery a doublet of velvet, in addition to the reward promised by the sovereigns.

The breeze blew fresh, with more sea than usual, and they made rapid progress, the Pinta keeping the lead from her rapid sailing. The greatest excitement prevailed : not an eye was closed all that night. As the shadows of evening fell, Columbus stationed himself on the top of the castle, or eabin, on the high poop of his vessel, the Santa Maria, sweeping the dusky horizon with his penetrating gaze. About 10 o'clock he thought he saw a light glimmering at a distance : fearful that his eager hopes might deceive him, he ealled one of the members of the expedition, in whom ho had confidence, and asked him if he saw such a light. The latter replied in the affirmative. To make the matter still more certain, he called another person and put a similar inquiry. Before the latter had ascended the round-house, the light had vanished. They saw it, however, once or twice afterward, by sudden gleams, as if it were flashing among trees, or rising and sinking with some boat among the waves. Though others doubted, Columbus, in his own mind, knew that they were approaching land. They continued their course till two in the morning, when the Pinta gave the joyful signal of land. It was first seen by one of the sailors, though the reward was afterward adjudged to the admiral. The land was distinctly seen at about two leagues distant, whereupon they took in sail, and eagerly " wished for day."

What were the feelings of Columbus at such a time, can be better imagined than described. His hopes were realized ; his faith had become vision. A name to last forever was now secured, and a new world was given to the nations.

At length the day dawned, and the prospect of hills and valleys, clothed with the freshest verdure and bathed in the richest sunlight, broke upon their vision. The three vessels, crowded with eager eyes and flying streamers, made for the land. The crew of the Pinta, which, as usual, was in advance, began chanting the Te Deum, and all united in thanking Heaven for his goodness. As they approached they saw the natives running from all parts of the shore, who imagined that the Spaniards and their vessels sailed out of the firmament, and stood gazing upon them in mute astonishment. Columbus gave the signal to anchor, and ordered the boats to be manned and armed. Richly attired in scarlet, and bearing the royal standard, he advanced in his own boat, while Martin Alonzo Pinzon, and Vicente Yanez, his brother,

AMEBIC A. 13 put off in their boats together. As they approached the shore they were delighted with the balmy air, the crystal transparency of the sea, and the rich tropical vegetation with which the land was covered. The moment Columbus stepped on shore he fell upon his knees, kissed the earth, and gave audible thanks to God, with tears of joy. The others, penetrated with similar feelings, followed his example. Columbus, then rising, drew his sword, unfurled the royal standard, and took possession of the country in the name of the Castilian sovereigns, giving the island the name of St. Salvador.

Other islands were visited, and Columbus returned to Europe to report the wonders of the new-found world. In his letters and journal he dwells with enthusiasm and delight upon the beauty and fertility of the land, the purity and freshness of the atmosphere, the peaceful and hospitable character of the inhabitants. Evidently his imagination was greatly excited, and as he took with him specimens of gold, spices, and other productions of those tropical regions, his arrival at the Spanish court was hailed with the liveliest demonstrations of wonder, gratitude, and joy.

" The loveliness of this new land," writes the great navigator, "far surpasses that of the Campana de Cordoba. The trees are all bright with ever-verdant foliage, and perpetually laden with fruits. The plants on the ground are tall and full of blossoms. The breezes are mild, like those of April in Castile ; the nightingales sing more sweetly than I can describe. At night, other small birds sing sweetly ; and I also hear our grasshoppers and frogs. Once I came into a deeply inclosed harbor, and saw high mountains which no human eye had seen before, from which the lovely waters (lindas aguas) streamed down. The mountain was covered with firs, pines, and other trees of various forms, and adorned with beautiful flowers. Ascending the river which poured itself into the bay, I was astonished at the cool shade, the crystal clear water, and the number of singing-birds. It seemed to me as if I never could quit a spot so delightful, — as if a thousand tongues would fail to describe it — as if the spell-bound pen would refuse to write."*

Columbus seemed to understand his destiny. After all, he little knew what he had discovered. All the time he supposed he had gained the coast of Asia, by a western route, and formed but a dim conception of the vast regions of the new continent, lying to the north and south. His discovery forms an epoch in the history of the world, the results of which are even now but imperfectly

* Humboldt's Cosmos.

realized. It has been well described as the genesis time of modern history. The age in which it occurred was in every respect a remarkable one. Other great discoveries were made about the same time, affecting, in an equal degree, the whole current of human affairs. The invention of gunpowder, and the adaptation of movable types to the purpose of printing, slightly preceded the discovery of America ; and the Reformation of the sixteenth century followed soon after. These great events combining their influences, formed an era such as the world has never seen since the advent of Jesus Christ, and the establishment of Christianity.

It is a fact worthy of observation, that the colonization of this New World was given to those five nations that were the furthest advanced in civilization, and the most powerful at that period of history — to England, to Spain, to Portugal, to France, and to Holland. What seemed, at first, the poorest, but by far the best portion, was given to the Anglo-Saxon race, that energetic people, who, under the Christian form of civilization, are yet to control the destiny not only of the entire American continent, but of the world.

But the mightiest changes in the history of nations are generally wrought by what appear to us insignificant means. The Deity has great purposes to fulfill ; and by ways of his own, which men often despise at first sight, he uniformly brings them to pass. All the great and influential nations of the earth have sprang from small beginnings, like mighty rivers, the sources of which are far hidden among the granite mountains or the primeval forests. Thus God would give this vast continent to freedom and Christianity, and he takes his own method to bring it about ; a method of which Columbus and the nobles of Granada and Castile had never dreamed.

One hundred and twenty-eight years after the landing of Columbus on the shores of the New World, the Mayflower was plunging through the stormy waves which break upon the rock-ribbed coast of New England. After a long and boisterous passage of sixty-three days, during which the pilgrims had endured incredible hardships, with a fortitude and a faith superior to that of Columbus, they got the first glimpse of land. Columbus sought the discovery of new regions which he thought would prove to be the El Dorado of the world ; but their aim was to found an empire in the wilderness, for " the glory of God," and the good of mankind. Men, women, and children had embarked their all in the perilous enterprise. Some of them had been sick, and one died on the voyage. It was their intention to make a settlement at the mouth of the Hudson River, the best position on

AMERICA. 15 the whole Atlantic coast ; but they were conducted, through the ignorance and self-will of their captain, to the most barren and inhospitable part of Massachusetts. It was, however, with no ordinary emotions that they first espied the rocky outline of their future home, though that was the stormy coast of Cape Cod, in whose harbor they were safely moored two days after.

Before landing, they took into solemn consideration the manner in which their government should be constituted, and formed themselves into a body politic, to be governed by just and equal laws.

"In the name of God, Amen; we, whose names are underwritten, the loyal subjects of our dread sovereign King James, having undertaken, for the glory of God, and advancement of the Christian faith, and honor of our king and country, a voyage to plant the first colony in the northern parts of Virginia, do by these presents solemnly and mutually, in the presence of God and of one another, covenant and combine ourselves together, into a civil body politic, for our better ordering and preservation, and furtherance of the ends aforesaid ; and by virtue hereof, to enact, constitute, and frame such just and equal laws, ordinances, acts, constitutions, and offices, from time to time, as shall be thought most convenient for the general good of the colony. Unto which we promise all due submission and obedience."

This simple but solemn instrument was signed by the whole body of emigrants, forty-one in number, who with their families amounted in all to one hundred and one, the Christian " democracy"that arrived in New England. "This," says Bancroft, with enthusiasm, " was the birth of popular constitutional liberty. The middle ages had been familiar with charters and constitutions ; but they had been merely compacts for immunities, partial enfranchisements, patents of nobility, concessions of municipal privileges, or limitations of the sovereign power in favor of feudal institutions. In the cabin of the Mayflower humanity recovered its rights, and instituted governments on the basis of equal laws, for the general good."

John Carver was elected governor, and preparations were made for taking possession of their new-found home. The water, however, was found too shallow for disembarking, and they were compelled to wade. Winter was setting in, and the shore presented one long and desolate outline. Not a human being was to be seen ; for the Indians in that part of the New World had been cut off the previous season by a wasting pestilence. The nearest French settlement was at Port Royal, a great distance, and it was five hundred miles to the English settlement in Virginia, formed

16 THE WOELD WE LIVE IS.

some years before. Worn out by the long voyage, ill supplied with provisions, and exposed on a bleak and unsheltered coast to the freezing weather, many of them contracted diseases, from which they never recovered.

The winter was advancing, and the place of their settlement was yet to be selected. The shallop was unshipped, but it was found to need repairs, and sixteen or seventeen weary days elapsed before the carpenter finished his work. Some of the party, bolder than the rest, undertook to explore the country by land. Much hardship was endured, but no discoveries were made. The first expedition in the shallop likewise failed ; and some of the people that died that winter took " the original of their death" in this attempt ; for it " snowed and did blow all the day and night, and froze withal." The men who landed to make explorations were " tired," as well they might be, " with marching up and down the steep hills and deep valleys, which lay half a foot thick with snow." A heap of maize, or Indian corn, was discovered, and, at some distance, a " burial-place of the Indians," — but they found " no more corn, nor any thing else but graves."

Another attempt was made in the shallop, under the conduct of Carver, Bradford, Winslow, Standish, and others, with eight or ten seamen. At first they found only some deserted wigwams and Indian graves. At last a flight of arrows from the tribe of the Nausites startled, but without injuring the adventurers. Giving thanks to God, they betake themselves to the boat, which they steer along the coast, but without finding a convenient harbor. The sky begins to darken, and a violent storm of snow and rain strikes the little craft. The pilot, ignorant of the coast, comes near steering among the breakers ; but at last, the boat passes through the surf, and enters a fair sound, and the crew find shelter under the lee of a small bluff of land. It is dark, and the storm of wind and rain beats furiously. The men are wet, cold, and exhausted. They are willing, however, to brave danger from the savages, and, with difficulty, kindle a fire on shore.

In the morning, they found the place a small island within the entrance of the harbor. The day was needed for rest and preparation, and the next was the " holy Sabbath," which they kept with religious care.

Time was pressing, and their exigencies were peculiar ; but they feared God and kept his commandments, a feature in their character which must strike the most casual observer.

Not till Monday, therefore, the eleventh of December (old style), in the year 1620, did the exploring party land on Plymouth Rock. The spot seemed favorable for settlement ; and in a few

AMERICA. 17 days the Mayflower, with her precious freight, was safely moored in its harbor. Their church had long been organized, and their constitution of government, which they had a few days before agreed, by solemn compact, to observe, was put into immediate operation ; so that the foundations of a new and enduring commonwealth were laid in the wilds of Northern America. Freedom, civil and religious, sprang up among the rocks.

But, alas ! much grief and care must be endured by the colonists. Difficulties of various kinds arose. Food was scarce, and their homes, if homes they might be called, were hastily constructed amid ice and snow. The Indians began to discover themselves, hovering around them at a distance, though instantly disappearing when pursued. Some were sick and feeble, and in the succeeding seasons many died. The benevolent and noble-hearted Carver, appointed governor, had, at his first landing, lost a son ; his own health suddenly gave way, and his broken-hearted wife followed him to the grave. Emigrants subsequently arrived, unprovided with food, compelling the whole colony, for six months in succession, to subsist on half allowance. The consequences were disastrous. " I have seen men," says Winslow, " stagger by reason of faintness for want of food." At one time, tradition says, the colonists were reduced to a single pint of corn, which, distributed, gave to each person only five kernels. Their little grave-yard, "smoothed down for fear of the Indians," was gradually filling up. Yet they toiled on, in faith and hope, men, women, and children, looking and praying for better days.

Other emigrants, better provided, followed from England. The labors of husbandry began to be somewhat fruitful. Slowly, but surely, the colony rose to prosperity and power. " Thus," to quote the words of Bradford, their second governor, and their historian, " out of small beginnings great things have been produced ; and as one small candle may light a thousand, so the light here kindled hath shone to many, yea, in some sort, to our whole nation."

A few years ago, a large company, composed of the talent and wealth of the country, met at Plymouth to celebrate the anniversary of the landing of the pilgrims. Farmers and mechanics, lawyers and clergymen, poets, orators, and statesmen were there. After much festivity and joy, " a magnificent oration," as the newspapers had it, and many fine speeches, one of the number, a poet of New England,* a man of rare wit, humor, and pathos, read a poem entitled " The Pilgrim's Vision," in which he represents one of

* Dr. 0. W. Holmes.

18 THE WOELD WE LIVE IK the old Puritans, in " the hour of twilight shadows," thinking of the " bloudy salvages" lurking around his dwelling, and then calling one of his children to listen to a wonderful vision which he had in Leyden, before the sailing of the Mayflower, a part of which seemed to be "unfolding" before his eyes. The home of the old Puritan is admirably, and, we presume, truthfully described. There must have been many just such houses in the wilderness.

" His home was a freezing cabin,

Too bare for a hungry rat ; Its roof was thatched with ragged grass,

And bald enough at that : The hole that served for casement

"Was glazed with an ancient hat, And the ice was gently thawing

From the log whereon he sat.

" Along the dreary landscape

His eyes went to and fro,

The trees all clad in icicles,

The streams that did not flow.

He smote his leathern jerkin, And murmur'd ' Even so.' "

Then follows "the vision," describing, with great force and beauty, the chances and changes of the future history of New England.

" I saw in the naked forest

Our scatter'd remnant cast, A screen of shivering branches

Between them and the blast ; The snow Avas falling round them,

The dying fell as fast, I look'd to see them perish,

When, lo ! the vision passed.

" Again mine eyes were opened,

The feeble had waxed strong, The babes had grown to sturdy men,

The remnant was a throng ; By shadowed lake and winding stream,

And all the shores along, The howling demons quaked to hear

The Christian's godly song.

" They slept, — the village fathers — By river, lake, and shore, "When far adown the steep of time The vision rose once more :

AMERICA. 19

I saw along the winter snow,

A spectral column pour, And high above their broken ranks

A tatter'd flag they bore.

" Their leader rode before them,

Of bearing calm and high, The light of heaven's own kindling