Lands of Sacred story

Introduction

It is a pleasure to introduce a man one loves, to speak upon a theme of sacred interest. The very introduction gives one a sort of fellowship with the message that is borne to the people, and he feels a selfish joy in the good that is done. Such is the feeling of the writer of these lines as he speaks to the public of James T. Nichols and the new book, "The Lands of Sacred Story." Mr. Nichols as editor of the Christian Union, has proven himself a writer of rare power. God has given him the ability to say much in little space. His editorials have taken rank as among the very best things that have been said for our people's

distinctive work and in the advocacy of the general advance movement of the religious world. Many of us have felt that his writings should have a far wider field than that afforded by a State, paper, even if the latter be of exceptional value and of large circulation/ But when this man of God turns to the narrative of his own travels in the land made sacred by the ministry of Jesus, he is at his best. Of reverent faith and discerning

judgment, he enters so sympathetically into the narrative that one feels the story of the land even as he sees the land declare it.

It is to be noted, too, that the writer of this book had exceptional opportunities in his journey through the countries of the East. He did not go with a cruise party with fixed schedule and

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trying limits of time. Mr. Nichols traveled independently and much of the time alone. He tarried at his pleasure, at points in the journey that impressed him deeply, and was able thus to absorb the rich things the trip affords for the life of meditation and the heart of deep feeling. More than that, by reason of his traveling in the way he did, he had experiences wholly unusual — sometimes humorous, sometimes perilous. These he has sketched in the work before us in a way to quicken interest greatly.

As a last word let me commend this book not only to travelers themselves, who will delight to refresh their minds by this interesting study, but let me even more especially commend it to men and women, young and old, who feel that they may never have the privilege of foreign travel. I believe Mr. Nichols will prove to such, a guide in sacred pathways who will be a blessing indeed. He will make real the lands of the Bible. He will make the incidents of the long ago live. He will bring face to face with the Lord. He will answer questions and quiet doubts. He will broaden the horizon and deepen the faith of his readers. I could wish that thousands of young people might follow this devoted servant of the Lord in his happy, helpful journeyings through 'The Lands of Sacred Story/'

Chas. S. Medbury..

Index To Chapters

Introduction

CHAPTER I. Glimpses of Life on an Ocean Steamship

A Floating Palace — Coal Supply — In the Refrigerator — With the Stokers — Life Boats — Five Meals a Day — A Storm at Sea — "Thank the Lord they are Swearing yet" — Trouble with Steerage Passengers — Wireless Telegraphy.

CHAPTER II. Montreal to London

Agreeable Companions — The Emerald Isle — Giants Causeway — Liverpool — English Trains- — A Fast Ride.

CHAPTER III. Rambles Through London

A World in itself — St. Paul's Cathedral with its Whispering Gallery — Westminster Abbey — Hornsey Tabernacle — Spurgeon's Tabernacle — Wesley's Chapel — A Jewish Synagogue — Royal Albert Hall — The Monument — The Black Death.

Chapter I. Glimpses Of Life On An Ocean Steam

MODERN ocean steamship is a floating pal-

*»> ace. To get an idea of the size one must imagine a great building eight or nine stories high and seven hundred feet long. A ship like the Oceanic of the White Star Line (several are larger) has an ordinary population of 2,000. It takes 500 men to run the ship.

On land the steel frame contains material enough to frame all the homes in a city of 3,000 people. Her bunkers would supply coal for such a city for two years. The above named ship has 96 furnaces and burns 12,000 bushels of coal every day. It takes 50 gallons of oil each day to keep the machinery running smoothly. The electric plant would furnish light for a city of 3,000, and her engines would run machinery enough to keep all employed. The six blades in the propellers of this ship are made of the best bronze and cost $6,000.00 each— $36,000.00 in all.

A look into the refrigerators is a relevation to the ordinary traveler. For one voyage the Oceanic carries 31,000 pounds fresh meat; 2,000 chickens and ducks; 50,000 pounds of potatoes; 150 barrels of flour ; 6,000 pounds ham and bacon ; 10,000 eggs ; 6,400 pounds sugar and other things in proportion.

SHIP.

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Every good ship has an up to date public library. Many of the passengers read a great deal.

Games of various kinds are indulged in by the passengers. Throwing quoits is quite popular. Many play cards. Some gamble. Checkers suit a certain class. The smoking rooms are well patronized by the men and writing rooms by the ladies. When not too cold hundreds swarm the. decks all day long and often far into the night.

There are always musicians on board ship and the pianos are generally busy. Entertainments are gotten up occasionally. We crossed the ocean with the "Hungarian Parliament" on one occasion and they had lively times. On several occasions we have gotten acquainted with some of the stewarts and officers who give us the inside of sea faring life.

It is interesting to go down to the furnaces and get a glimpse of the stokers. They have a hard life. Every man has to work like a beaver. To go along the main steel shaft for a hundred feet and note the thoughtfulness of the builders would almost interest a wooden man. They have prepared for almost every imaginable accident and emergency. If the great shaft were to break they have gigantic clamps which could be fastened in an hour or two so the ship could proceed as if nothing had happened.

A ship is supposed to carry lifeboats sufficient to accommodate all the passengers. These boats are ready with food for several days packed in them all the time. The ships are constructed

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with a false bottom and water tight compartments so if they should strike a rock which would go through the bottom the ship would not sink.

On an ocean steamship people who are well generally eat five meals each day. In most cases they have nearly everything imaginable to eat. We will never forget our Sunday dinner. We had among other things "roast duck." It was well cooked but not well picked. An Irishman stood on deck leaning over the railing "feeding the fishes." The captain saw him and wanted to sympathize with him and said, "Pat, I notice you have a weak stomach." As soon as he could get his breath Pat said, "Faith sir, you are wrong. I am throwing it farther than any man on the ship."

We were overtaken by a storm. It was an awful sight. Port holes were all closed and passengers warned to stay indoors. One man ventured out and lost his hat and soon came back wet as a drowned rat. The waves are almost mountain high when the sea is very rough. One moment the prow will be pointing towards the clouds and the next moment the propellers are out of the water, the ship trembling like a leaf and looks as though it were going to the bottom of the sea.

Many stories are told about frightened passengers and how they act. One old minister, it is said, went to the captain and asked if he thought they would ever reach land again. Of course the captain laughed and told him there was no danger. In an hour or two the old minister appeared before the captain once more nearly frightened to death. The captain assured him they were in no danger and finally asked the minister to look down an opening and listen, when he heard the sailors swearing. Now said the captain, "As long as you hear these fellows swearing there is no danger, but if they go to praying you may be alarmed." About midnight the old minister went on deck once more and listened until he could hear the sailors when he exclaimed, "Thank the Lord, they are swearing yet."

Navigators have maps of the ocean as geographers have maps of the land. If there is a rock, or a dangerous place the maps show it. If a derelict is sighted the captain must take his bearings and report it as soon as he touches land. One of the most exciting times we ever saw was one day when a water logged, abandoned vessel was sighted. We did not know until it was searched, how many dead persons were upon this floating derelict.

At noon every day the officers take their bearings and in a few moments there is posted at the entrance of the saloons the chart showing the exact location of the ship, the number of miles traveled during the last twenty-four hours, etc.

One day the steerage passengers became a regular mob and threatened to kill the officers of the ship and run it to their liking. Some of us were a little alarmed too and we asked one of the chief officers what would be the result if these people

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undertook to carry out their threats. At once the officer showed us little coils of rubber hose which had been placed ready for use. He said, "let them try it. In a moment we will have these hose coupled and throwing boiling water in their faces."

On one occasion one giant had run all the sailors out of a large room and with a big knife in one hand, a revolver in the other, defied any man to come into the room. Immediately the captain was sent for. He was a large man and was not afraid of anything on earth. Many expected that he would be killed by the ruffian. Opening the door the fearless captain sprang into the room and in less time than it takes to write these lines the boasting "Goliath" was disarmed and placed in chains and imprisoned and lived on bread and water during the remaining part of the voyage.

Wireless telegraphy is about the greatest invention of the age. We have stood on the upper deck at the office for hours watching the delicate instruments receiving messages from some unseen ship a hundred or more miles distant. We had a great race which lasted three days and which was the talk of all on board and yet we never saw the ship. The whole race was as interesting as though the two ships were ploughing the water side by side.

Chapter II. Montreal To London

THE TRIP from Montreal to Liverpool was made on a ship twenty-seven years old. She is now in the bottom of the sea. As it was early in July the captain decided to go through Belle Isle Straits. As we approached the straits great icebergs almost blocked the channel. Slowly the great ship began to turn around. Our captain had decided it was too dangerous to try to miss all the bergs. All were disappointed because it meant at least two days longer on the ship to go around Newfoundland. One young man cried as though his heart would break. It developed that the reason he took it so hard was the fact that he was to be married in England on a certain day and would miss the wedding.

On this trip our companion was a Methodist preacher, Rev. R. I. Hoskings of Friedland, Canada. We had good times together. On Sunday we had divine services. The author preached at the morning service. The sea was so rough that we had to hold to an iron post with one hand. On Saturday evening we went down among the steerage passengers and invited them to the services the next day. They were so pleased over it that they entertained us with songs and speeches for an hour.

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On the morning of July 11, all was excitement on board ship. For twelve long days we had been on the sea and the cry "Land" made every one happy. We will never forget our first view of "The Emerald Isle" as we went around the northem coast toward Moville. The lighthouse, the high cliff, the green fields, the white cottages and the beautiful scenery comes before us as we write these lines like a grand panorama.

Yonder are the ruins of an old castle. It must have been the home of some chief for its ruins are extensive. Now the pilot comes on board to take us safely to the city of Moville. Boats come out as soon as our ship is anchored to take the mail and passengers who wish to go ashore.

On to Liverpool we are now going. To our right is the "Giant's Causeway." According to the legend, in days long gone by England and Ireland were connected with each other by a narrow strip of land and a tunnel beneath through which the giants used to pass. The giants were continually at war with each other and finally a portion of this highway was destroyed and the points of land on each side are now called "The Giants Causeway."

The "Giant's Organ" is a group of great columns of stone so arranged that they have been given this name. The cliffs are sixty feet high in some places and the irregular hexagon shaped, close-fitting stone pillars are wonderful indeed. The ruins of several castles are on the crags high above the sea and in one place there is a swing-

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ing bridge spanning a chasm eighty feet deep.

We get only a glimpse of the city of Belfast. Here are located the largest ship yards in the world. To the left the Isle of Man is to be seen. The sea is as smooth as glass. Not a ripple anywhere. It was difficult to leave the deck that July evening. At 5 o'clock in the morning nearly every passenger was on deck. The city of Birkenhead was on the right. Scores of great ships were in sight. The great anchors were cast into the sea and in a short time the "red tape" officers had been satisfied and we were ready to land in the city of Liverpool.

Getting through the custom house at Liverpool is not a difficult job. Some act sneaking and do not want to open their baggage. Of course these are the ones who suffer most. If one is frank and open and has baggage all ready they have no trouble at all. The officers are kind and courteous. ,

Liverpool was once a little fishing village, situated in a marsh. It takes its name from one of the ponds or pools which owing to the great number of "liver" birds about it continually, was called "liver-pool." Now it is a great city with miles and miles of docks and quays. We went up along the docks for several miles on the electric railway. ,

Soon we were on a special train bound for London. This journey was the fastest ride we ever had up to that date. The distance, the way we went is 219 miles and we made it in 240 minutes.

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We ran 200 miles without a stop. The engine takes water while running a mile a minute. There is a little trough filled with water in the center of the track at intervals and a device scoops it up until the tank is full. ,

The engine has no cab. The engineer and fireman have to stand up. We asked one of them what they did when it rained and quick as a flash he replied, "We get wet, sir." The railroad company furnishes rubber coats, however. Wages are not half as high as in the United States. We understand that the new engines there now have cabs something like those in our own country.,

The coaches are very different from those in our country. The doors are in the sides of the cars. Each apartment has but two seats and half the passengers must ride backwards as they sit facing each other. The doors are locked so no one can get out. At the time we were there the coaches had no watertank or closet, but we are told the cars have been much improved lately.

The ticket-taker does not go with the train, but remains at the station. Baggage is not checked — each one must look after their own and see that it is placed on the train. There are no diners, but the railroad furnishes baskets with enough in each one for two persons and charge 50 cents per basket. Baskets are left in the train and collected at the end of the run.

The ride from Liverpool to London is one of the finest imaginable. How we did enjoy it after spending two weeks on the sea. The birds sang sweeter, the sun shone brighter and the grass looked greener than ever before. Now for many weeks we will "Ramble through London."

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Chapter III. Rambles Through London

THE CITY of London is a world in itself. It contains more Irish than Dublin more Catholics than Rome and more Jews than Palestine. It has a greater population than Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul, Minneapolis, Omaha, Kansas City, Denver, Salt Lake City and San Francisco combined. It has more people than Iowa, North and South Dakota, Idaho, Utah, Colorado, Wyoming, Oregon, Arizona and New Mexico.

There are 120,000 people in London who have no homes; 60,000 sleep on the Thames embankment almost every night. In one respect London is like heaven for there is no night there. The busiest time in the day in "butchers' row" it is said, is at 3 o'clock in the morning. The writer was in the slums in the White Chapel district, the famous East End, after midnight, and there jseemed to be no decrease in the throng of people at that late hour.

Now we wish to make these articles practical so we will just tell you where we stopped and how it was arranged. Before leaving home we wrote tp Brother William Durban, whose articles have appeared in the Christian Evangelist for many years, and asked that he refer us to some member of the church who would furnish lodging and

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breakfast. He kindly referred us to Bro. Fred Paige, who lived on Melrose avenue, Woodgreen, and there we stopped for three weeks, and <* happy time we had.

ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.

We will begin our rambles through this great city by visiting the churches and the first one that attracts our attention is St. Paul's Cathedral. It is located in the heart of the city. From the days of Diocletian a church has been located upon the site where St. PauPs now stands. In fact the first building was destroyed in the days of the tyrant. The next church was built on this ground in the days of Constantine and destroyed by the early Saxons. The third building on the same ground dates as far back at 610, the fourth in 1000 and the present building was begun in 1675.

It took 35 years to erect the present building and the cost was more than three million, seven hundred thousand dollars. The building is 510 feet from east to west and 282 feet from north to south. Walk around it and you have traveled nearly one-half a mile. The cross on the top is 404 feet from the ground. The great metal ball upon which is a cross, weighs 5,600 pounds; the cross itself weighing 3,660 pounds. The architect was Sir Christopher Wren, and above the door is the motto, placed there by his hand, "If you would see my monument, look around you/'

We attended several services in this great cathedral. They were all very formal and we did not enjoy them very much. There are some features of the service in all of these churches that are commendable. First, there is not a bit of whispering. No worshiper enters that does not sit down and bow his head in silent prayer. When the benediction is pronounced everyone sits down for a moment and then quietly gets up and goes from the building. There is no visiting.

In this church is the famous "Whispering Gallery." This is up near the dome. The distance across the dome at this place is 112 feet. You enter and the attendant asks you to walk half way around and sit down. When you do so he, sitting by the door whispers and by the time his voice gets around where you are sitting it sounds like a loud halloo. It seemed impossible to believe that the attendant was whispering and we asked the M. E. minister who was with us to remain and we would go and sit down by the attendant and when the next party came in we would find out whether he was whispering or not. We did not have to wait long and sure enough he just whispered.

Another interesting curiosity in this church is what is called the geometrical staircase that seems to hang without any support. There are thirteen bells in the building. The largest, called "Great Paul," weighs more than 32,000 pounds. This bell is rung every day at 12 o'clock and people seem to watch for its ringing every day. In this church are the tombs of many great men, such as

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Lord Nelson, Duke of Wellington and maii^ others.

WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

Westminster Abbey is a great church building which is more than 600 years old. It is built in the shape of a cross. Its extreme length is more than 400 feet and it is more than 200 feet wide in the widest place. While it is a church it is also the greatest cemetery in the world. More great men are buried here than in any other spot on earth.

The ground upon which this church building stands is historic. Before the church was built a monastery had been there for nearly a thousand years. The spot upon which it is built used to be called "The Isle of Thorns." There is a tradition that says St. Peter was there at one time. Near the church is the old palace yard where stood the Pillory. Here Sir Walter Raleigh was executed.

It is hard to describe the inside of this church. There is what is called the nave (or middle part) , the transepts (or the arms of the cross) and the choir. The great pipe organ is in the gallery. There are almost a dozen chapels. In this church kings and queens have been crowned and great historical events have occurred. Here the Westminster confession of faith was made and the Bible was translated and revised.

We have already mentioned the fact that this is a great cemetery. In the north transept is "The Statesmen's Aisle." First we notice the

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grave of William Pitt. Upon his monument which is 33 feet high, is this inscription : "Now Bacon, mind you do not turn author; stick to your chisel." Here is the grave of Sir Robert Peel, who brought about the repeal of the "corn laws." Here is the grave of William E. Gladstone, whose funeral was the first state funeral since that of William Pitt. Near the grave of William Pitt is that of his rival, Charles J. Fox, who was called the "Man of the People.' 1 He is represented dying in the arms of Liberty; a negro, kneeling at his feet, is thanking him for his share in abolition of the slave trade.

In the west end of this Nave is the grave of William Pitt, Jr., who died insolvent and was buried at the public expense. After his death, parliament, in recognition of his services to the country, voted $200,000 to pay his debts. He is represented speaking, while history records his words and anarchy crouches in chains at his feet. In this portion are the graves of Sir Isaac Newton, David Livingston and scores of the world's great men. The poet Ben Johnson was buriad here standing upon his feet. He died in poverty and as there was but 18 inches square unoccupied he was placed in this portion standing up.

In the portion called the choir it is quite natural that we should find the graves of the great hymn writers and musicians. Here are monuments erected to the memory of Isaac Watts and John Wesley. Of course we pause at the grave of the

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great Wilberforce, who it is said removed from England the guilt of the slave trade.

In the South Transept is the famous "Poet's Corner," where lies the remains of Dryden and Longfellow and Chaucer and Spencer and Milton and Gray and Campbell and Southey and Shakespeare and Burns and Goldsmith and Addition and Thackery and a host of others. Then we pass the grave of Charles Dickens and nearby is the grave of Thomas Parr, who lived one hundred fifty-two years.

We next step into the chapel of Henry VIIL Here is the grave of Mary Queen of Scots, but we do not care to linger by its side. As we come to the grave of Good Queen Bess (Elizabeth) it is different. When she died there was weeping, so it is said, such as had not been known in the memory of man. Her funeral train was composed of 1,600 mourners. The graves of Henry VII, James I and II, Charles I and II, Oliver Cromwell and many others are in this chapel.

In the chapel dedicated to St. Paul we have among other relics "The cloth in which the saint's head was wrapped after the execution (?)" etc., etc. The body of James Watt, the inventor of the steam engine, is here. In St. Nicholas Chapel is the most attractive monument in the whole world. It is of white marble and "death is represented starting from beneath and aiming his dart at Lady Elizabeth, who shrinks back into her husband V arms." It is said that a robber broke into the abbey one night and was so terrified at this ,

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figure that he dropped his tools and fled from the building.

In the "Chapel of the Kings," where so many of the English sovereigns are burned, is the famous coronation chair. In the seat of this chair is the ' 'stone of destiny," which tradition says is the one upon which Jacob rested his head at Bethel. Jacob's sons carried it to Egypt and from there it was carried to Spain. About 700 years later it turned up in Ireland, where it was placed upon the sacred hill of Tara. When the Irish kings were seated upon it at their coronation the stone groaned aloud if he was of the royal race, but remained silent if he was a pretender. Next we hear of it in Scotland and when Edward I overran that country he found the stone and carried it to Westminster Abbey.

In other parts of this great building there are many interesting monuments and inscriptions. On one gravestone there used to be, it is said, this inscription : "What I gave, I have ; what I spent I had ; what I left I lost by not giving it." In one part of the building it is said there is a stone door with seven locks and lined with human skins. This can only be opened with permission and in the presence of officers of the government.

HORNSEY TABERNACLE.

One Sunday morning we went to one of our churches called Hornsey Tabernacle, Bro. William Durban, whose articles were in the Christian Evangelist every week, was the pastor. We

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found a very fine company gathered for the morning worship. Brother Durban insisted on us preaching the sermon. After a short prayer meeting in the "elders' room" we spoke as best we could and it was a great delight to speak to such an appreciative audience. To our surprise the following note appeared in the next issue of the Christian Commonwealth:

"James T. Nichols, pastor of the Christian church, Vinton, Iowa, is one of the many American preachers now in London as Christian Endeavorers. He preached on Sunday morning at Hornsey Tabernacle to a deeply interested congregation. Mr. Nichols possesses the common American merit of perfect fluency of speech, together with an unpretending ease of manner. He preached with great simplicity of language, but with considerable originality of thought, his subject being the gospel as commended by Paul to Timothy."

SPURGEON'S TABERNACLE.

Another Sunday morning we went to Spurgeon's Tabernacle. This is one of the greatest churches in London. The services were held that day in the basement of the new building, the auditorium was not quite finished at that time. There was a great audience present. They had no choir and no organ. The pastor, Thomas Spurgeon, was on his vacation. A Rev. Williams preached the sermon. When time came for service to begin about twenty elders, nearly all grey headed, marched to the platform, led by the minister. Only the old songs were sung and everybody sang.