By horse, canoe and float through the wildernesses of Brazil

Contents

CHAPTER PAGE

I. First Words 1

Part I. Expedition To The Araguaya And Tocantines

II. Traversing a Vast Domain. — Great Coffee Farms. —

Semi-Barbarous Abodes 12

III. Life in the Far Interior. — Medieval Schools. — Primitive

Customs 24

IV. Traveling by Mule Train. — The Priests and the Bible. —

The Evangel 31

V. The Goyana Wilds. — Sanctuaries of Nature. — Poverty.

— Meeting the Cherente Indians 51

VI. Primitive Man. — Canoeing on the Araguaya. — A Paradise of Animate Life. — Gardens of Eden. — Manioc,

the Bread of the Land 58

VII. Life in the Savage World. — Jungle Dinners. — Sylvan

Dormitories. — Midnight Adventures 71

VIII. The Karaya. — Receiving Strangers. — Personal Adornment. — Domiciles. — Menageries. — Fishing and

Hunting. — Husbandry. — Foods 84

IX. Karaya Activities. — Canoe Making. — Weapons. — Nature Made Utensils. — Ornament Making. — Family Life. — Primitive Ethics. — Marriages. — Children. — Government 101

X. Karaya Sports. — Funerals. — Carnivals. — Religion 116

XI. The " Civilized Ones." 129

XII. The Cherente Tribe. — Savage Social Functions. — Hunting. — Agriculture. — Wild Fruits 137

XIII. Life on the Rio Tocantines.— " The Devil in Flesh and

Bones."— Sacred Bullies 147

Contents.

APTER PAGfc

XIV. Religious Festivals. — Universal Socials. — Sobriquetes. — Bad Men Named After the Gods. — The Prostitution

of Religion. — Poisoning the Mind 162

XV. Image Worship. — Origin of Famous Idols. — The Atonement Obliterated 177

XVI. Social Conditions. — Benevolence (?). — Disposal of Unwelcome Children. — St. John's Fires. — Dance of St. Gonsalu. — Hell Let Out. — Nutting Expeditions.

— Fighting with Ants 189

XVII. Canoeing on the Rio do Somno. — A Wonderful Awakening of Nature. — Cherente Hamlets 205

XVIII. The Karaoh Tribe.— The Log Race 213

Part II. From The Rio Do Somno To The Sea

XIX. Canoeing on the Tocantines. — Revolutions 222

XX. The Jungles of Marantic — Giants' Tables 229

XXI. Floating Down the Rivers Balsas and Parnahyba on a Raft. — A Land of Fire. — Famine. — Tropical

Storms 236

XXII. Life in North Brazil. — The Evangel.— Boating on the Itapicuru. — Lepers. — Interments. — Sepulchral Niches. — Human Bone- Yards. — Commerce 247

XXIII. The Cities by the Sea. — Missions. — Persecutions. — Sub-

urban Jungles. — A Celebrated Shrine. — Remarkable Philanthropy. — The Overthrow of the Inquisition 255

XXIV. Rev. George W. Chamberlain, D. D.— Market Day.— A

Barbarous Hotel. — Riots. — Schools 265

XXV. A City Beautiful for Situation. — A Mission Center. — Carnivals. — The Lottery. — Sao Paulo. — Coffee and Milk Saloons 273

Part III. The Goyana Campaign

XXVI. Evangelizing. — Life and Doings in Southern Goyat. — Gideon's Three Hundred Men.— Domestic Econ-

Contents.

CHAPTER PAGE

oray. — A Primitive Mill. — Rum Distilleries. — Cattle

Destroyed by Insects 283

XXVII. The Bible and the People 294

XXVIII. Triumphs of the Evangel. — Jungle Churches. — Primitive Worship. — Neglected Fields 304

XXIX. The Conflict of Christianity with Heathenism.— Semi-barbarous Cities 320

Part IV. Expedition To Bororoland

XXX. Remarkable Providences. — The Matto Grosso Wilds. —

Cattle Ranches 338

XXXI. The Borders of Bororoland. — Forests and the Forces

of Nature 351

XXXII. Life Among the Bororo. — Eyed Constantly by a Horde of Nude Savages. — Astonishing Make-Ups. — Primitive Housekeeping and Sanitation. — Horticulture. — Foods. — Vegetable Cows. — A Wonderful Palm ....362

XXXIII. Weapons. — The Blow Gun. — Hunting. — Marvelous

Fishermen. — The Mano Race. — The Wild Man's Evening Anthem. — Woman. — Unique Marriages. — Fights. — Primitive Arithmetic 376

XXXIV. Religion.— Revolting Funeral Rites 395

XXXV. The Sorcerers. — Exorcising and Frightening Away

Demons. — The Mystery Instruments 407

XXXVI. Following the Wild Man's Trail.— Life in a Savage

Club House. — Floating Down the Rio Pogubu 415

XXXVII. Farewell to the Bororo. — Canoeing on the Pogubu and Sao Laurengo. — " Civilizing " Savages. — Across Plateau and Swamp. — Cuyaba 427

Part V. The Rio Verde Expedition

XXXVIII. Exodus to the Rubber Forests.— Extracting Rubber ..440 XXXIX. Camping by the Rio Verde. — Making Canoes. — Explor-

Contents.

ing the Rio Verde and Penetrating into the Unknown. — Struggling with Rapids and with

Fevers. — The Land of the Kajab£ 452

XL. Disaster. — Tramping Across No Man's Land. — The Tapanhuma Cannibals. — Shooting the Rapids of the Cuyaba River. — Back to Civilization 466

Part VI. Last Words

XLI. Inconceivable Treasures Squandered. — Christian Expansion 480 iv

Chapter I. FIRST WORDS

South America is a vast, unmeasured world where summer, like its rivers, goes on forever. It is a land of colossal, transfixed waves of mountains, hills and valleys; extensive plateaux; boundless, absolutely treeless and perfectly level plains, and fertile basins, where the luxuriant grasses are eternally green and water is ever abundant — the paradise of the stock raiser. It is a continent of stupendous wildernesses ; vast, majestic, and impenetrable tropical forests, scraggy upland jungles, swamps and inundated lands — the eden of animate nature : of mighty rivers and innumerable minor streams, teeming with countless varieties of fish, mammals and reptiles : of great water falls, fearsome rapids, beautiful cascades, sparkling brooks and bubbling springs : of violent electrical storms and torrential rains, resplendent sunshine and enchanting moonlight, where " the heavens declare the glory of God, and the firmament showeth his handiwork;" where, '■ day unto day uttereth speech, and night unto night showeth knowledge." — They speak without words. It is a world where, in the words of Mrs. Browning, " the earth is crammed with heaven, and every bush afire with God," but, only he who sees takes off his shoes. — A land where Nature's grand, universal band, composed of millions of pieces, forever sounds its melodious and enchanting music in praise of the wisdom, power, goodness and love of the Father of Lights — though only he who has ears to hear can hear — yet, it is a land where mankind is entombed in the abyss of ignorance and superstition.

*

The existence of the South American continent became known to the European world soon after Columbus made his famous and daring- venture across the great " sea of darkness " in 1492. The eastern portion, called Brazil, fell to Portugal, while the western half became provinces of Spain because of a decision of the Roman Pontiff, and because of discovery and seizure.

The Spanish, dominated always by two passions, the passion for gold and the passion for propoganda, pushed forward from the West Indies to Mexico, then into Peru. Brandishing a sword in one hand, they said, fiercely to the simple, panic stricken people of these countries, whom they plundered and butchered, give us gold or we will cut you to pieces ! Then, to palliate this great wickedness by an act believed to be of supreme piety, and to balance their merit and demerit account, they extended the other hand to their unhappy victims, exclaiming, take our religion, or we will annihilate you !

The subjugation of the New World was co-incident with the reformation in the Old. While Cortez was besieging and pillaging Mexico and extending the papal power in the New World, Luther, Zwingli, Calvin, Knox and Tyndale, were unsheathing the Sword of the Spirit, the Word of God, that had lain despised a thousand years, and were inflicting deadly wounds and curtailing the power of Rome in the Old World. Again, while Spain was destroying, diabolically, the splendid barbaric nations of the New World, and extending her dominions there, she was disemboweling herself at home with the very same weapons that she was using to extend her power abroad. Ridpath, the historian, says that the bloodthirsty fiends who dominated Spain employed every known form of atrocity, injustice, barbarism, butchery and assassination to crush out human freedom at home and abroad. The forces of evil, which had been culminating for centuries, burst forth suddenly, like a volcano. The sixteenth century, the period of Spain's conquest and colonization of South America, witnessed the climax of human wickedness, folly, depravity, and infernal insanity, led by Philip II, and the Duke of

Alva. This was the character of the power that christianized (?) South America.

In the sixteenth century, moreover, when the tide of reformation was rising and men were awaking, like Lazarus, from the sleep of spiritual, moral and intellectual death, and casting aside the grave clothes of an effete, degenerate, pagan religion, the Jesuit order, and the Inquisition arose, and became the double right arm of Spanish and papal power to force back the chariot of progress, crushing out human liberty and enlightenment and paralyzing independent thought, and to re-enthrone the powers of darkness.

While the cruel agents of Spain were plundering the nations of the west coast of South America, adventurers, rebels, rascals and criminals, and finally, colonists from Portugal and elsewhere, began to appear in Brazil, which they found sparsely populated by numerous tribes of nude and painted but mild savages.

The newcomers began at once to make raids upon these aborigines, attacking their villages, burning and butchering, and taking captives to be reduced to slavery and employed to convert sugar-cane into rum ; and to be themselves, in turn, converted into Christians ( ?) as a just recompense, and to square the merit and demerit account. This treatment of the South American savages has continued through the centuries until recent times. But as they succumbed quickly under this servitude, the slave traffic was extended to Africa, and black savages were imported in large numbers. The Portuguese and Spanish, universally, took wives and concubines of both these primitive races, hence a large proportion of the present population of Brazil is a mixture in varying degrees of these three races — the American and African savages, and the scarcely less savage and pagan Portuguese and Spanish. Each race contributes its element of religion and superstition to the common stock, resulting in a jumble of rites, ceremonies and observances, over which really homogeneous mass the corrupt papal priests preside.

Brazil remained a province of Portugal until 1809, the time of the Napoleon wars, when the king of Portugal and his court, fleeing from the French, went to Rio de Janeiro. Here he set up his throne and established his government, staying about twelve years and raising Brazil from the degraded position of Portugal's milch cow to an imperial state.

After peace was restored in Europe, the king returned to Portugal, leaving his son in Brazil as regent. Then when affairs had remained in this posture but a few months, the regent was recalled and the Portuguese government foolishly sought to sink Brazil to its former condition. But the people of Brazil, having had a taste of better things, refused to submit to this humiliating program, declared their independence of Portugal, and persuaded the young prince to remain and become their emperor. The independence of her colony was finally recognized by Portugal without the effusion of blood, though two thousand Portuguese soldiers garrisoned a fortress which dominated Rio de Janeiro.

Brazil remained an empire until 1889. But a monarchy on American soil was an exotic plant that never became wholly naturalized; besides, the spirit of the age tends more and more to democracy and popular government. So a revolt at length fomented very quietly in high places, with which the army sided, and the kind old emperor, Dom Pedro II, rather than draw the sword and pour out a river of blood for personal vindication, with little hope of success, went quietly and sadly aboard a ship with his family, during the night following the open rupture, and retired to Europe, where he soon died.

Since this coup d' etat, Brazil has had a republican form of government, modeled much like that of the United States of North America. But the government, like that of nearly all South American countries, is republican little more than in name. There is no truly popular vote, for only a very small minority of the people are able to read and write, and but few seem to take much real, practical interest in politics. Besides, the people are far more truly subjects, or slaves, of the Roman hierarchy than patriotic citizens of their country, re-

Brazil.

garding the pontiff as a god and autocrat of the world. Even where there is a popular interest in national politics, it is very difficult, or impossible, to secure a full and honest vote, for the party in power can be depended upon to circumvent any attempt to unseat them. It is said that in many districts, the boss of the party in power appoints himself to cast the vote for the entire electorate. Hence the government is often merely an oligarchy — a comparatively small group of virtually self-appointed men who continue themselves in power indefinitely. In some South American countries, the government has been but a band of princely robbers. Therefore, popular suffrage, and government by the people and of the people, is frequently a farce. But, only a people endued with the Spirit of Christ, who are universally educated and highminded and who love justice and reverence law, can be truly a republic. The sovereignty of a nation lacking these qualities will be seized and held by such Tammany rings as are strong enough, and cunning enough to take it.

Since the moral standards and ideals of the South American peoples are low, universally, honor and civic righteousness are rare ; while " graft," or venality, is practiced commonly by men in important public positions, who gormandize like anacondas while they have access to the government manger. Large sums of money that should come from import duties are lost, annually, to the public treasury owing to the rascality of customs officials. A merchant, returning from Europe on a certain ship, landed at a Brazilian port as personal baggage, fifty trunks of costly goods, the duties on which would have amounted, perhaps, to thousands of dollars. To enter the goods as he did, he simply oiled the palms of the officials with a few hundred dollars. To do business with the government, the official hand must be, usually, lubricated with bank notes.

Since the formation of the Brazilian republic, religion and the state have been, theoretically, separate and independent; but the wily, unscrupulous emissaries of the Roman hierarchy are still the great bosses of the nation, and the President of the Republic and the governors of States are often merely their obedient servants. These pompous and arrogant agents of an alien, unfriendly power and pious paganism, are planning and conspiring continually to dominate the people, body and mind for their own aggrandizement and profit — an autocracy of the dark ages coiling itself, python-like, around a democracy.

Quoting in part from a report of the Presbyterian Board of Foreign Missions: Perhaps never in its history has the Roman hierarchy made a stronger or more effective campaign against the enlightening of a nation, the growth of conscientiousness and moral ideals, and the development of the sense of personal and national responsibility and patriotism, than it is making in Brazil to-day. A thoroughly organized, completely equipped, and skillfully and cunningly directed campaign is being conducted in all parts of the country, lacking neither money nor men, and marshaling all the numerous agencies and machinery of Romanism. Priests, nuns, monks and friars of all orders, and enormously rich, spued out of the Philippine Islands and European countries, are flocking to Brazil by hundreds, like vultures on a scent. Puissant creatures of the Vatican government, the most astute and persistent politicians in the world, who arrogate to themselves all authority, in heaven and on earth, even to commanding the Most High, are found in both houses of State and National Congress, and occupy the seats of governors of states ; and the Roman pontiff is flattering the rich with trumpery titles of nobility, hereditary and military honors, and sending his portrait with autograph dedication to prominent men, granting indulgences for life.

But while this vast, perfectly organized army is exerting itself mightily for the overthrow of liberty and progress, and for individual and national degeneracy — dominating and dethroning the individual will and conscience — the rich and powerful Protestant, Evangelical Church sleeps on, represented by a mere handful of missionaries, rarely reenforced.

Romanism has enjoyed almost absolute power in South

America for nearly four hundred years. What it has effected there will be more fully indicated in future pages. A historian declares that " the policy of this wonderful organization in every age has been to make every possible concession to ignorance that is compatible with the continuance of ignorance. It has sought always to amuse, to edify, to moralize and console ignorance, but never to enlighten it." Jesus, on the contrary, and the religion He taught, " is the Light of the world." The gross ignorance of mankind is absolutely necessary to the existence of all non-christian religions; while enlightenment is the child and bosom companion of Bible Christianity, and ignorance, vice and crime flee before it as night and its horrid creatures flee before the rising sun.

Speaking roughly, Brazil — and, indeed, all South America — is a world going to waste. Its natural resources are almost incalculable, embracing the products of both the temperate and torrid zones, such as cattle, sheep, horses, cotton, cereals, sugar, coffee, rice, tobacco, hides, medicinal plants, rubber, dye-stuffs, nuts and fruits, precious metals and other minerals in inconceivable quantities, and an inexhaustible supply of timber. Finally, no country in the world is so rich, varied and interesting as regards animate and plant life. But the soil, which has been gathering fertility from the repose of ages, supports only a useless vegetation, except at miniature spots, comparatively, like a few oases in the Sahara, for agriculture has only begun. The mineral resources of the country have been touched only as regards gold and diamonds ; manufacturing is in its swaddling clothes; and as to stock raising, the country scarcely supplies even the home demand. An observer says of the great Amazon region, that no country in the world, perhaps, is so capable of yielding immense returns from agriculture, yet none are so little cultivated. None where the soil will yield such an enormous variety of valuable products, where the facilities for internal communication are so vast, and that possesses in such marvelous completeness all the natural requisites for a stupendous trade, and yet none more neglected.

Brazil.

Brazil is nearly forty times as large as England and Scotland combined, yet it has less than two-thirds their population, though capable of sustaining, probably, the entire population of the globe.

Owing to remarkable Providences, independent of any plans of his own, and the converging of chains of events the beginnings of which were as wide apart as the earth, the author, acting as a sort of forerunner, or scout, for the army of Christ, traveled thousands of miles through the boundless wildernesses of South America inhabited by the children of the forest, besides traveling extensively and evangelizing among the more advanced peoples.

The journeys through the savage world were made by means of dugout canoes, by rude floats made of hundreds of small poles, by horse and mule train and on foot.

During these wilderness wanderings, we navigated many rivers, encountering numerous dangerous rapids and whirlpools and escaping narrowly many perils. We saw, frequently, the margins of a river peopled by alligators and innumerable birds of gigantic size, while the air was gay with the flight of birds of gorgeous plumage and musical with their songs and chatterings ; and the water teemed, even seethed and rumbled sullenly at times, with fish and monsters — the paradise of the sportsman. Occasionally, when voyaging at night, moving silently onward in the embrace of a mighty current through the heart of unmeasured solitudes, remote from civilization, and listening to the snorting, blowing and splashing of big, hungry creatures in the water, we could easily imagine that we had been placed upon the earth long prior to the age of man — in the Devonian Age when a universal ocean, marvelously animate with fish and other creatures, enveloped the globe.

On land, we traveled by horse and pack mule, and on foot, carrying with us a complete camping outfit. Our journeys led us over great hills and mountains, down rugged declivities, and along serpentine trails that were fearfully furrowed by the daily torrential rains. We traversed vast

The Great Falls of Francisca de Paula, the Niagara of South America. They are 200 feet high and nearly two miles wide.

Brazil.

areas of an unsubdued world of scragged jungles, and dense tropical forests enveloped in eternal gloom, awful in their midday silence, terrible in their midnight noises and blackness, and dripping with water from the frequent thunder storms; and we often found ourselves entombed in masses of thorny vegetation, making progress like passing through interminable barbed wire entanglements. We followed for hundreds of miles the narrow divides betwixt great continental drainage systems. At times, we were permitted to view from altitudes, in the wonderful and enchantingly transparent atmosphere, great expanses of the unknown world. Once, we saw twenty or more independent rain storms at the same moment. We crossed swift streams by means of catamarans and rude floats, or by walking suspended trees, like aerial rope dancers, or by fording and swimming. We wallowed and waded through broad and dangerous morasses and submerged lands ; encountered thundering cataracts and numerous charming cascades ; journeyed through mysterious, unmeasured solitudes, beholding with deep feelings the marvelous works' of God and awed by endless sublimities. We camped at times in wonderful natural botanical gardens of vast extent; or halted for a brief rest and for refreshments at some charming sylvan bower traversed by a laughing brook, regaling ourselves with delicious wild fruits, or dining upon wild vegetables and the flesh of wild beasts. The memory of these experiences will ever remain as a strange, enchanting dream.

Results of the great forces of Nature were all about us. We crossed the basins of primeval lakes that were drained, perhaps, by mighty cataclysms, some of which are to-day the sites of majestic forests; while the ancient islands are now perpendicular walled table mountains, or giants' castles, and seemed to us mute, solemn, gigantic sentinels of the ages. We viewed stupendous hydraulic excavations and explored subterranean caverns, visited rubber forests, and penetrated into unexplored regions. We witnessed daily, with feelings of profound reverence, the sublime spectacle of " the birth of the sun ;" and as the mighty waves of multi-colored splendor rolled upward, like oceans of liquid glory, and the attending hosts of celestial archers shot their wonderful, many-colored shafts of light toward the zenith, we seemed to be beholding the triumphal march of the King of Glory, and to be in the immediate presence of Deity.

We slept in hammocks or on the ground in arboreal tabernacles, or canopied only by the stars, or dwelt in houses of canvas ; and were often aroused in alarm by the collapse of our canvas shelter, or by the ceaseless flash and roar of a tempest. We were entertained, at night, by Nature's grand orchestra, the myriad voices of the wilderness. We were endangered by wild beasts, reptiles and savage man ; harassed by the armies of the insect world; scorched by a vertical sun by day and chilled by the winds of night; consumed by fevers. We subsisted at times, like the savages themselves, upon tapirs, wild-pigs, deer, ant-eaters, armadilloes, ground hogs, monkeys, huge lizards, turtles and turtle eggs, fish, great divers, macaws, rheas and various other wild birds ; and also upon numerous wild fruits and vegetables. Sometimes we were compelled to fast, and at other times to eat beans infected with worms, and beef crawling with maggots. We dined one day on a soup made of lard, water and a pinch of wheat flour.

During these extensive journeys and explorations, we passed through seemingly ages of experience in single years. Entirely unexpected events occurred, at times, almost hourly. One moment, we floated in seemingly perfect security and freedom from care down a quiet, peaceful river, exulting in the wonders and beauty of Nature about us, and the next instant we were thrown into wild excitement, and were in mortal danger because of surging rapids in which our craft could not live, into which we were being sucked almost irresistibly. Sometimes, we lived in a state of war, having to post sentinels every night. We were completely isolated from civilization for long periods of time ; and once, did not taste bread for an entire year. The unexplored, unknown world encompassed us; unmeasured solitudes enveloped us. In the dark, spectral hours of night, especially, we would feel ourselves mere helpless, unintelligent atoms in the midst of Infinity and in the presence of Omniscience. What was in this great, mysterious world, only the edges of which we could see, and which seemed to conceal itself from us behind insurmountable barriers that hemmed us in like prison walls? What wonderful phenomena of Nature might it not contain? What marvelous secrets might not be waiting to be revealed? What sort of human beings peopled these vast regions? Might they not be lurking near our camp and shadowing our movements? Giant interrogation points seemed to stand thickly about us like huge phantoms, or apparitions.

Remembering the grave dangers to which we were, at times, daily and hourly exposed, and yet shielded from, I am filled with gratitude to God and with reverential awe of His unsearchable love and protecting care. It may be said that we lived a charmed life ; but God guided us with His eye, held us in the hollow of His hand, and covered us with His pinions as truly as He did the twelve when He said, " Peace be still " to the tempest that convulsed the lake of Galilee.

Part I. EXPEDITION

TO THE

ARAGUAYA AND TOCANTINES.

Chapter II. TRAVERSING A VAST DOMAIN.— COFFEE CULTURE. —SEMI-BARBAROUS ABODES

There appeared one day in the lime-light of publicity at the Brazilian capital, a party of strange, uncouth looking men. They were a group of Cherente Indians, led by one Sepe, who had come a great distance from the far interior, fifteen hundred miles of the journey having been made on foot, to seek a teacher, they said, for the children of their tribe. No Christian teacher responding to this seemingly urgent call, a Brazilian woman, a teacher in one of the public schools of the city, offered her services. A fund was raised for her, which was contributed to liberally by resident missionaries, and she, accompanied by her son, who proved to be a libidinous youth, departed with the Indians for their remote villages.

Some months after this event, I was requested to go to the Cherente villages and begin a mission there, if practicable. This was the circumstances which led to my visiting and becoming greatly interested in the Aboriginal tribes of Brazil.

Leaving Rio de Janeiro, I traveled southwest by rail, three hundred fifty miles to the city of Sao Paulo, climbing, enroute, the Organ Mountains and passing through twenty-three tunnels. It was a journey full of interest to me. Baggage is not checked, free of charge, on Brazilian railways, but must be expressed; therefore, one hundred sixty pounds of baggage cost me nearly as much as my first-class fare, which, however, was less than one and a quarter cents per mile, while second-class cost but three-fourths of a cent a mile. The train was enveloped in a thick cloud of dust all day as the dry season was at its height.

In S2o Paulo, I completed arrangements for the long journey into the interior, preparing and having printed a quantity of large, eight-page scripture pamphlets, which proved very useful in the work of evangelizing.

From Sao Paulo, I traveled northwest by rail to a town called Riberao Preito — Big Black Creek. The railway, for the most part, was narrow gauge, as are nearly all the railroads of Brazil. It was an ideal day for travel ; rain had fallen the night before, the day was cool and cloudy, and we were free from the terrible clouds of dust which often make railway travel in Brazil very unpleasant.

Our route lay through magnificent coffee regions, and at times, as far as the eye could reach, the blood-red land, which undulated heavily, or lay in gigantic ridges, was adorned by hundreds of thousands of beautiful coffee trees. At other times, we crossed low mountain ranges and big wrinkles in the earth's crust, skirted pretty rivers and brooks and muddy streams, or traversed sandy table lands, encountering, of course, many villages and towns.

To reduce expenses, I traveled second-class. Our car remained full of " the great unwashed " during the entire day. I doubt if many of these people had ever had a full bath since their birth. The odor inside the car can be better imagined than described. Moreover, nearly all these travelers carried elaborate lunches, though a few munched huge loaves of bread only; and as they devoured their food, they dumped bones, fruit skins and other garbage on the floor, and between meals, made a thin plaster of the food refuse and the layer of red earth that had accumulated on the floor of the car, by incessant and copious expectorations ; at the same time, attempting to disinfect the car by smoking like volcanoes. Many of these people were Italians, of whom large numbers have been imported by the government to supply the urgent demand for labor in the cultivation of coffee.

The day's run terminated at Riberao Preito, for at this time, trains were seldom operated at night on Brazilian railways.

Everything is red at Riberao Preito, whether animate or inanimate. The ground, which is clay ; the buildings, that were once white both inside and out, and their contents and furnishings ; the people and their clothing — everything, is nearly the color of dried blood. During the months when no rain falls, the wind raises the fine dust in clouds and it penetrates everywhere in great quantities.