Across Panama and around the Caribbean

Front matter

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Introduction To Third Edition

This is by no means a new proposition, history has focused many events at Panama, and an account of the Isthmus would bring one in touch with the events of the whole world. Interesting as this would be we can here but glance, as it were, at some of the scenes enacted during the flight of years. Long before America was discovered Indian races had their trails across the narrow neck of land to Panama, the place of many fish, and happy people went in contentment and peace ; as free as the air and nourished by the woodlands through which they took their way. Then the Spaniards came, and had but to follow where for generations people had been travelling. Often the valour of the Spanish Chevaliers has been remarked, how they penetrated the unexplored fastness of unknown tropical regions in America. Their way however was not so rough as many have supposed,

ix the Indians had good roads and trails all over the country and the Spanish adventurers had but to follow these, conquest not exploration being their object.

A route frequently travelled was across Panama, by Indians who sought to obtain fish and oliva shells, Oliva Splendidula, from the waters of the Pacific. These shells were highly prized, and were used to make necklaces, for which purpose they were cut in half across the centre, and the lower portion, with its graceful lip, and delicate interior colours, contrasting with the mottled browns of the shining exterior, made a beautiful ornament, which the Indians might justly prize.

These necklaces may have had something to do with the discovery of the Pacific, and probably Balboa saw them, and had heard of the great ocean when he was on the eastern coast of the Isthmus. Then when his fortunes were threatened he naturally sought a brilliant achievement, and went in quest of the great waters in September of 1513. It is related that he first saw the Pacific from a mountain ridge on the 26th of the same month, and that three days later he stood on the shores of that ocean,

x and took possession in the names of their most Catholic Majesties of Spain.

The discovery was not long neglected, and in 1518 the first city of Panama was founded by Padro Areas Davela. Here Pizarro fitted out his expeditions. In 1531 his voyage of destiny was commenced and after a time a stream of blood-stained gold was passing across Panama, and the route grew in importance, for many people sought the colonies, and the conquests of the lower Pacific. Prosperity continued for a period of years, and then came the Spanish and English wars, and the days of terror, and struggling. Drake crossed the Isthmus in 1573 and attacked the City of Panama, taking many prisoners and quantities of treasure. At a later date piracy had assumed ever threatening proportions and in 1671 Morgan sacked the City of Panama and left it almost a ruin. After this event the new City of Panama was founded, on the site of the present city, and to make it impregnable it was fortified with great walls which have since fallen into disuse. Those who preyed on the Spanish Galleons were not all outlaws, though so regarded by the Spaniards ; and accounts which I found some years ago in

xi quaint old Spanish prints of the fifteenth century told how the English Pirate Francis Drake had ravished the peaceful shores of American Spain.

The years changed and the scene changed, the power of Spain in the new world was confirmed to her, and those who crossed Panama, returning with cargoes of the products of her settlements, or with gold wrung from the labours of Indian slaves, had not so much to fear ; but blood still marked the trail, slaves staggered under heavy burdens, or tottered along as fever burned out their lives, while the cruel eye of the Spanish master regarded not the suffering, but took note only of the waning strength while his relentless whip urged on the way, that the Indian slave might deliver his cargo ere death should take him. These were cruel scenes, and crueller sufferings on the route across Panama, where every inch has been stained with blood; and could the ghosts of those who died on that route rise again to mock the living, the scenes they could conjure up might not be well endured.

The accumulated influences and memories grew with the passing years, the power of

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Spain waned while resentments grew in America ; till in the early part of the present century the scene changed again, and the people turned against their rulers. All Spanish America was in revolt, armies crossed and recrossed Panama ; then after a few years, about 1824, it was all over, and the power of Spain had been broken. But those who fought so valiantly under their brilliant leaders for a promised freedom found that they had only changed masters, and long years of strife succeeded. Many were the ragged armies which went across Panama struggling for an ideal yet never finding that liberty which they had been led to expect. Because of these struggles, and because Panama was one of the highways of the nations the great powers of the earth began to assert that as all were interested in this route the way must be kept open, and in 1846 a treaty was signed between Colombia, and the United States, by which the latter undertook to maintain order for all who would cross Panama. Then came a new scene, when in 1849 the crowds urged their way, leaving a trail of death on the road to California, and the mines of gold. In these days Panama came to an ill repute which has never xiii left her. Then came the railroad, begun in 1849, and opened in 1855; a great boon to commerce, and to travellers, but attained at a cost in human lives which appalls even to this day; and it is still whispered about Panama that those who died on the work of construction would form a double line of skeletons, two under every tie laid on the Panama Railway.

The line was finished, new scenes developed and trade sought the Isthmus. It was said that the wants of commerce were amply provided. It was so, sufficient for that day perhaps, but commerce grew, and was not contented. The example of the canal at Suez opened in 1870 was referred to by so many that presently the canal at Panama, talked about since 1520 when Angel Sevaadra proposed its construction, became a demand not easily to be ignored. A canal was the requirement. Anywhere in Central America would answer, some urged one route, some another; the contest finally narrowing down to the respective merits of Nicaragua and Panama, the preponderance of opinion favouring the latter place.

The energies of Count de Lesseps brought

xiv about new scenes at Panama, and an organization which in 1881 undertook to build a sea level canal. Their efforts were heroic but were failures. Extravagance there was among them, yet what but extravagance could make headway against such difficulties as they had to encounter ; difficulties which modern science, particularly in medicine, have largely eliminated for the Americans. The French enterprise was a failure, and all failures are miserable, from that of the lonely student sorrowing by himself over a lost examination, to that of the mighty enterprise gone to ruin. Each failure in its degree is miserable, and brings its sorrows, but the French effort at Panama was an heroic effort, even though it was a failure. Then all looked to the United States to finish the work, and early in the present century, one of its first events in fact, was the Isthmian Canal Commission, and its work in Central America. After long and careful investigation the Panama Route was finally recommended, in February, 1903, with the proviso that if Colombia would not make reasonable terms, then the offers from Nicaragua were to be taken up, and terms made. Great were the rejoicings at xv

Panama. Of course Colombia would make favourable terms. But the government at Bogota rejected the offers of the United States, and it looked as though the canal would go to Nicaragua. The people of Panama had always been semi-independent, having their own coinage, their own postage stamps and the local administration of their own affairs. On hearing the news they became simply wild; they had been tricked, they had been betrayed. I was in the south at the time, and well remember the excitement. The crisis came. One night, on the 3rd of November in 1903, the Panamanians rose almost to a man, asserted their former independence from Colombia and declared that the terms asked by the United States should be granted though it took all their lives to enforce the demand. The canal was Panama, and Panama was the canal, and they would have it, if not for themselves then for their children, and their children's children. The revolution was spontaneous, natural; and yet it was embarrassing, — a grave question confronted the government of the United States. Under its treaty obligations it was bound to maintain peace in the Isthmus. It could not

xvi stand aside and allow Colombia and Panama to fight it out. Neither could it force Panama to submit to Colombia, for that were to carry war where it was under solemn treaty to maintain peace. Certainly neither course would be permissible, and nothing remained but to recognize the independence of Panama, adhere strictly to the treaty obligations and maintain peace. Charges were made that the United States had a purpose in view, but the unanimity with which the people of Panama acted, and their manifest natural interests, made the revolution at Panama the certain, free will act, of a determined people, who felt aggrieved, and outraged; and the treaty obligations of the United States required that there should be no fighting at Panama ; hence the prompt recognition of the new Republic. A period of negotiation, and suspense followed; then came the next great scene in the history of the Isthmus. The flag of the United States was recognized all across Panama, and the Canal Zone was acquired.

A great work has been undertaken, and until it is finished we cannot surely tell how successful the plans, and specifications, will be. But

xvii one thing is certain, the canal is of such vital importance to the United States that the people will have it, and count it cheap at any cost. The end will certainly be a success, the people of the United States will not tolerate a failure. A zone ten miles broad across Panama belongs to the people of the United States, and stretches southerly across the Isthmus to the west of the cities of Colon and Panama. At the region of the Canal Zone the Isthmus turns east and the City of Panama is south easterly from, and further east than, the City of Colon. At this latter place the traveller finds a low shore, cocoanut groves, shell beaches and an unattractive city ; back of which are mangrove thickets, swamps and muddy lagoons. At the head of Limon Bay, and to the west of the City of Colon is the Caribbean terminus of the Canal Zone. Here for a considerable distance inland work on the canal has been finished, and in appearance it is almost like an arm of the bay. The shores are low, and muddy, mangrove swamps, cane Jbrakes, palm thickets and jungles occupy the alluvial lands through which the first section of the canal has been cut. Beyond this formation developments of red clay and

xviii sand were found, part of the formation which is to be noticed all along the eastern base of the mountains of Central America, and across the Gulf of Darien in Colombia, to well up the valley of the Magdalena River. Beyond this formation on the hills of the Panama Divide principally clays and residual materials are found, originating from the disintegration from Andesite Lavas which are prominent all through Central, and northern South America, and which weather easily to schistose formations and clay. At the foot of these hills of the Panama Divide on the east is the Chagres River, where the problems of excessive floods have been so carefully studied, and at the apex of the divide is the Culebra Cut, where the hills are of about three hundred feet elevation, and tremendous excavations are being made. The schistose rocks and clays of Panama are subject to slipping movements, especially when saturated with water. Harder intrusive rocks are found, but what effects may develop among the softer rocks, and on the enormous works of construction which are being laid on gigantic foundations among the hills of the Panama Divide, we cannot surely tell; but competent xix engineers assure us that all is safe, and absolutely secure. A little beyond the excavations at the Culebra Cut the peculiar volcanic sediments of northwestern South, and lower Central America, make their appearance, and further on become the predominating formation. The material is a gray or drab sediment, cemented together, and containing gravel beds, some of them of great extent and depth, indicating the presence of aqueous influences in other days over an extensive area, from Ecuador northward, all along western Colombia, into the Darien regions and up the western coast of Panama, to terminate below the mountains of Costa Rica ; where many of the lavas resemble the materials of which these sediments are formed. Often this formation contains red or yellow clay, and near the coast limestones, and calcareous materials, are found mingled with, and overlaying, the cemented volcanic sediments. Generally speaking work of excavation is easy in this formation, and if such were the material at all parts of the canal the excavation of a sea level water way would not be so difficult. Perhaps a sea level canal is not so difficult to construct as some report ; but

XX then the army is building the canal, and the army engineers have their habit of thought in barriers and works to restrain, or resist ; and naturally a lock type of canal, with all its great achievements of construction appeals to them. If the navy had the matter in charge, it is natural that their first thought would be in regard to easy sailing, and most probably under such influence a sea level canal would be the order.

It looks as though the canal will be of a lock type, and even the most adverse critics do not claim that such a canal cannot be constructed. It will be ample for the commerce of to-day, and for some time to come; just as the Panama Railway was ample for the commerce of former years, but what the future may require for the accommodation of its commerce we cannot surely say. One thing seems reasonably certain however, to enlarge the capacity of a lock canal would be very difficult, if it could be done at all; but a sea level canal could be increased, and enlarged to almost any capacity. There are some people who claim that the scouring action of the mighty tides from the Pacific could be utilized to advantage, and that if any

xxi kind of cut were made, even an unprotected ditch, once the flood tides of the Pacific were let through a tide gate they would clean out a channel to the Caribbean which would serve for all time; and which would turn the Chagres River to a new course, and make it part of the way followed by the flood tides across the Isthmus. This is perhaps the idle fancy of untrained minds, but there is a mighty power in the tides of the Pacific, they rise twenty feet, while at Colon the tides rise less than two feet, and one scarcely notices the difference between high and low water. The tidal volume from the Pacific is appalling, so great would be the force of the onrushing waters that except they were restrained by a tide gate, navigation at certain parts of the day would be impeded, and perhaps totally checked ; and the action of such a power in maintaining the canal, and keeping it clean might be considered; for if the canal were at sea level the tide gates could be opened at times and the floods could be let through to carry all before them, and keep the canal well scoured out and free from obstructions.

The work on the Pacific side of the canal is rapidly nearing completion, the City of Pan-

xxii ama has adapted itself to new conditions, and now awaits the event, and the great movement of commerce to follow, and seek her quaint old fashioned streets, where many of the houses project from their second and third stories to gain room, for the space is not adequate. Numerous will be the throngs to seek those streets after a time when the great work has been completed. A canal we are to have, and whether it is of the lock type or at sea level, all good Americans in all the Republic must wish it the heartiest success, and all will be ready to welcome the day when the final scene on the Isthmus is enacted, and which will make it an Isthmus no longer; for a water-way will have been cut, and the flag of the United States will become the guide, and the protecting influence over the great highway of commerce which is now being constructed across Panama.

Francis C. Nicholas.

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Preface

Of all the regions adjacent to the United States none are so attractive or present such varied conditions of development, scenic beauty, and commercial opportunity as the countries about the Caribbean Sea. From the islands of the West Indies, with their teeming population, some of them the most densely peopled spots in the world, to the low lands of Central America, where, in the solitude of the wilderness, a human voice is all but unknown, we find a varied country. It is a vast region surrounding the pleasant waters of the Caribbean Sea, inhabited by divers people, and presenting for our consideration snow-capped mountains, temperate uplands, broad savannahs and grassy plains, open valleys, dense jungles, and mighty rivers pouring their torrents of muddy water into the sea. One meets Spaniards, Englishmen, Negroes, and Indians of many different tribes. Of products everything known to the American tropics is

PREFACE

to be had. Commerce is flourishing as yet only in its infancy, but with the opening of work on the Isthmian Canal a great impetus will be given to all this region ; and many will turn to the South, some looking for business in the cities, others going to the wilderness on projects of development, or seeking to gather products.

For my part, I have visited almost every point of the Caribbean regions, and expect to go there again many times. What has happened to me, is similar to what others may expect; descriptions of a country are all very well, but incidents and adventures of the road give a much clearer idea of the conditions and of the circumstances which one must expect to encounter.

Contents

CHAPTER PAGE

I. Going South 1

II. Camping on the Coast of Spanish Honduras 4

Chapter I. Going South

One cannot explore the Caribbean regions in a month or even in a year, and it is some time ago that I found myself with a considerableundertaking in view, the exploration of all that country for the South American Land & Exploration Co., Ltd.

Plans had been carefully considered, and I was to go alone, use my own judgment as to finding companions on the way, and explore the gold regions, the timber lands, the rubber forests, and other resources of the tropics. I crossed and recrossed the Caribbean Sea many times, but for convenience in relating all that happened I will crowd the incidents of a long period into a tale as of one continuous journey.

Going south is very easy. Comfortable steamers leave New York at regular intervals ; the traveller at ease on his way watches the waters of the ocean change day by day to the deep blue of the tropical seas, feels the air grow warmer as the breezes come up from the south; a glimpse of green islands in the distance, beyond them the sweeping trade-winds and turbulent blue waters of the Caribbean ; then a line of mountains, gray in the distance, and in a little time the steamer anchors near the shore. A strange odour of swamps and forests fills the air, a damp clinging heat settles oppressively about one. Presently a crew of natives comes aboard, some in rough cotton clothes, one or two in gaudy, ill-fitting uniforms, and some dressed in a mixture of both, looking strangely incongruous and not very clean. Now one is to leave the steamer, and the expectant traveller goes ashore with the motley crew of natives, amused perhaps at noticing how they all shout out orders and direct one another. When the boat reaches land, one may find a rough wharf, but at most places only a lot of sheds marks the landing, where there is a stretch of white sand burning hot under the sun of the tropics, a few straggling bushes, some cocoanut-trees, — ragged specimens tossing to and fro in the wind, or drooping listlessly if the day is still, — patches of coarse grass. a vault of blue overhead where surely a group of buzzards will be circling about, and ever}^ where intense burning heat. One hurries to the nearest protecting shade, and is glad when permission is received from the custom-house authorities to leave the landing-place and seek the interior of one of the low, cool houses in the city beyond.

Under such conditions, I arrived at the little seaport of Truxillo, in Spanish Honduras. The details of the scene were not pleasing, but the broad expanse of the blue ocean, the intense sky, the great jungles stretching away below the city, and the lofty mountains toward the interior combined under the flood of glowing sunlight to form a scene of dreamy loveliness.

Chapter II. Camping On The Coast Of Spanish Honduras

A few days in Truxillo, and I started down the coast in a small sailboat with some adventurous Americans and a goodly company of negro passengers.

These daring Americans were taking me to see property and mines, in which they, with some of my friends in New York, were interested. Their time was passed in praising each other, drinking, telling me of the great things they had done, and in doing me for money. It was all part of a prearranged plan, and had to be tolerated.

As we stood along the coast I saw a succession of low, sandy .beaches, a tangled growth of jungle beyond, and then a range of blue mountains in the distance.

After three days under a tropical sun, the captain informed us that we had arrived off our destination, the inlet of Brewer's Lagoon, and that he would put about for the shore, reminding us that he did not guarantee a safe entrance. and in case of loss the damage was for our account.

Passengers were ordered below, but the captain allowed me to stay on deck, perhaps because I had taken the tiller for part of the time on the way down, and had gotten along fairly well sailing the boat.

" What will happen to us," I asked, " if the boat runs aground?"

" Do you see those big waves ? " the captain replied, in the low, deep voice common to the negroes, but with the most perfect enunciation, and no sign of negro dialect. " There are the shifting sand-banks ; the channel is never the same ; it is always changing ; if we ground, the boat will be beaten to pieces ; our people will swim ashore, but the sharks will eat white men ; you were not made for these countries. Don't talk to me now."

Surely a pleasant prospect. I had sailed many a small boat in rough water, and was not at all afraid of a swim ; but the sharks, — how awful it would be to feel their great jaws close on a leg, and then be torn to pieces by a company of them attracted by the blood!

" Are there really many sharks ? " I asked, in a whisper.

" Yes ; don't talk," answered the captain.

A big negro called Tom, a perfect specimen of health and strength, said to me : " See that swirl in the water over there, and see that thing moving just ahead of the boat. They are gathering all around us. Here dead animals float out to sea; that is why they come."

We were approaching the shore now. Great, muddy waves rose up with a threatening comb, rippled into a foaming line along the top, and then settled down again. I could see no sign of an inlet, but still the little boat kept on, the captain now giving orders in his native tongue, a remnant of African memories used all along the coast. The men stood at their places, and then, swinging the sail full to the wind, the captain stood directly for the shore. For a moment we ran quietly before the wind, then a great sigh seemed to rise up among the waves, and with a trembling and dragging the boat went grinding along the bottom. Behind us came a rolling wave, in which, as it rushed toward us, I pictured thousands of evilly disposed sharks ; in another instant the boat went staggering on, then it came down on its side, and seemed to be endeavouring to bury itself in the sand; waves were now breaking all about us, and we were not more than fifty yards from the shore. Once more the boat rose up and staggered forward, came down with a bang, that sent us all on our backs ; the next instant a wave dashed over us, and then, with a grinding and dragging, while the men shouted out to each other, the boat seemed to make a final effort and floated gently into quiet water behind the bar. Here a current was running out to sea like a mill-race, and it was some time before she could be brought around to the wind and started toward the inlet.

" We disappointed the sharks that time," the captain said, while the men began making vows that they would never come again with such a heavy cargo.

Then all the passengers began talking at once, but I felt little patience to hear them, and, going to the bow of the boat, sat on the guardrail beside Tom, who gave a kind of sympathetic rub up against me, a movement expressive of satisfaction, such as a great dog gives at times, and then said, " You needn't look so white and frightened about it; we would have taken care of you, anyway."

A landing was made on the inner side of the sand point at Brewer's Lagoon. I scrambled over the side of the boat, and immediately a painful, smarting sting developed on my face and hands, caused by the sand-flies, tiny enemies, too numerous to combat; and soon they converted our hopeful company into as quarrelsome a set of individuals as ever made themselves disagreeable to one another in a tropical country. The negro sailors did not mind the sand-flies very much, and they soon had the cargo on shore; then the boat prepared to go away. I wanted Tom to stay with me, but he would not hear of it, and urged that I should return with them, but that could not be. Tom had been a faithful servant, and I felt I should miss him sadly; for continued good nature, strong, steady muscles, and a faithful spirit are rarely found, especially in the tropics. As the boat sailed away, I was lonely and discouraged, and determined that when I returned to Truxillo I would engage Tom for a long cruise; but I never saw him after.

A circumstance not a little to be regretted in a traveller's life, is the parting from faithful people. One meets with many who are companionable and worthy of esteem, — rough Indian guides, courageous and true; vigorous negroes, ready to dare anything in one's service; courteous officials, kind friends, and charming hostesses; and at parting one resolves he will meet them at some future time, but often they are never seen again.

On the sand point at Brewer's Lagoon our camp settled itself to await the pleasure of the Mosquito Indians who were to take us on our way. The days were not pleasant, but after I found that a mixture of kerosene oil, carbolic acid, and vaseline, if smeared thick enough on the hands and face, would keep the sand-flies from bothering, life became tolerable, and the evenings were always charming, for then the sand-flies went away, and the mosquitoes did not come till late.

When one has nothing but corned meat in tins, it is really noticeable with what eagerness one starts on the chase, and, when evening came, I was always ready to take my rifle and follow any guide who might be willing to lead the way. At our camp there was a negro called Big George, who stood six feet four, and knew all the country round about. Frequently, after sunset, he and I would go among the sand-dunes looking for deer. We never got anything. Big George said I talked too much, but I am not so sure about that.