The quirt and spur; vanishing shadows of the Texas frontier

Contents

PAGE

Preface 7

The Legend of the Tonkawa Indians 53

Preface

All that has passed on before appear to me as vanishing shadows, into whose hazy depths I now dimly see as in a dream ; too far away to grasp the details, yet a vision clear enough to quicken my mind and allow imagination to supply the perspective, and to even incarnate the actors, and bid them come forth from that mystic realm of long ago, and once more give a realistic performance for the mutual pleasure of old friends.

'Tis true, the cycle of time has whirled us along so fast that we have drifted into the broad field of commercialism, and now we can hardly realize that there is a past worth remembering — a time before the flood of immigration set in with its ever increasing population, gradually covering all traces of the Texas frontier.

In these modern days I find it a most difficult task to secure any data, much less to tell the true story; nevertheless, I think it is worth while.

And there is much that is interesting in the telling, too, notwithstanding my friend the critic may not find, in the "warp and woof" of the story, the weaving of a narrative that he can pronounce "all wool and a yard wide." I will be content if the few remaining frontiermen and their descendants can unravel a thread or two that will prove interesting reading.

In the fire light when the embers glow, I see the vanishing shadows come and go, Peopled with the figures I once knew; Fancy figures now — farewell — adieu !

EDGAR RYE.

Chapter I The "tenderfoot"

Tread cautiously as you advance West; He who observes most will fare best.

Far out into that vast expanse of country known as Northwest Texas, in the early days of the frontier, when unrestrained nature played with the ambitions and passions of men — far out beyond the confines of civilization — beyond the reach of the strong arm of the law — beyond the christianizing influences of the church — beyond the gentle touch of a woman's hand — far out where daring men took possession of the hunting grounds of the Indian and killed herds of buffalo to make a small profit in pelts, leaving the carcasses to putrify and bones to bleach on the prairies — far out where cattlemen disputed over the possession of mavericks, and the branding-iron was the only evidence of ownership — far out where a cool head backed the deadly six-shooter, and the man behind the gun, with a steady aim and a quick trigger, won out in the game where life was staked upon the issue — far out where the distant landscape melted into the blue horizon, and a beautiful mirage was painted on the sky line — far out where the weary, thirsty traveler camped over night near a deep water hole, while near by in the green valley a herd of wild horses grazed unrestrained by man's authority — far out where the coyote wolves yelped in unison as they chased a jack rabbit in a circle of death, then fought over his remains in a

10 THE QUIRT A\D THE SPUR

bloody feast — far out where the gray lobo wolf and the mountain lion stalked their prey, killed and gorged their fill until the light in the East warned them to seek cover in their mountain lairs — far out where bands of red warriors raided the lonely ranch houses, killing, burning and pillaging, leaving a trail of blood and ashes behind them as a sad warning to the white man to beware of the Indian's revenge — far out into this wonderful country of great possibilities, where the sun looked down upon a scene of rare beauty, brilliant, gorgeous and fascinating, appealing to sentiment, awakening love of romance and sending man's thoughts soaring on wings of his imagination — far out into this storehouse of nature, where the luxuriant mesquite grass, like an emerald carpet of velvet, covered the hills and valleys, furnishing unlimited pasture for the great herds of cattle turned loose on the open range — far out where the AIcKinzie trail crossed the Clear Fork of the Brazos river, near the confluence of Collins creek, Maj. George H. Thomas established an army post on the top of a low, flat hill, and named it Fort Griffin.

It was in the month of March in the year 1876. during the last hour of a crisp, bright day, when the twilight shadows were settling over the valley of the Clear Fork, a covered wagon, drawn by a pair of jaded horses, turned from the trail and halted in a grove of pecan trees not far from the crossing. The five occupants jumped out and made preparations for camping over night.

There were four young men who came from the thickly populated districts of Kentucky, Tennessee and Virginia, and the fifth was the guide, who was also the owner and driver of the team, chartered by these young men for this overland trip.

No doubt these four young men, prompted by their

THE TENDERFOOT H

love of adventure, had followed Horace Greeley's advice, "Go West, young man ; go West."

Each could have been labeled "Tenderfoot," notwithstanding their "Wild West" costumes.

With one accord they began to gather the dry driftwood and build a fire, while Dick, the guide, tethered the horses and fed them, before he began preparations to cook the evening meal.

When supper was over they filled their pipes and lounged around the smoldering fire. And for a long time they smoked in silence, each busy with his own thoughts.

The darkness slowly enveloped them, like an invisible curtain drawn by an unseen hand. The tall pecan trees, with their festoons of grapevines, shut out the starlit sky, and the undergrowth made the darkness more intense. The flickering flames of the fire, with their bluish tinge, cast fantastic, ghostlike shadows on the dark background and increased the loneliness that oppressed the campers.

Those mysterious sounds of woodland nature that come forth at night played a medley up and down the river valley, accentuated by the sharp barking of a coyote wolf and the hooting of an owl from the upland.

Civilization, with all of its attendant comforts, was 200 miles east. It first began to fade from their view when they departed from the town of Dallas, on the banks of the Trinity river, the western terminal of the Texas & Pacific railway, where the wagon traffic of the frontier connected with the iron rails. And when they began the journey across the open prairie on the trail to Fort Worth, the scattered houses became fewer and the distance between them greater, until the vast expanse of treeless country on either side was devoid of houses or improvements. The indistinct evidence of a distant

East merged into tlie free and easy West when they arrived in the village of Fort Worth, where wagon trains loaded with bufTalo hides traded their cargo for camp supplies. All traces of the East disappeared when they bade good-by to chance acquaintances at the little hamlet of Weatherford and rolled out on the buffalo trail toward the setting sun ; and all social pleasures and commercial advantages of the East were forgotten during the ten days' slow, plodding journey westward, hunting and fishing by the wayside.

But tonight they seemed to have awakened to a realization of their lonely surroundings, and through the seductive vapor of tobacco smoke came visions of their homes in the distant States — friends and relatives, beckoning them to return to the business activity and gay social whirl of the cities and towns ; perhaps the pretty faces and shining eyes of sweethearts were conspicuous in the mental picture, making the longing more intense, and the weight of depression bore down upon their drooping spirits, suppressing all desire to enliven the evening with song and story.

And the full significance of the thirty graves they passed on their journey west, near the trail in Los Valley, twelve miles northwest of Fort Richardson and the town of Jacksboro, where a caravan of freight wagons was attacked by a bloodthirsty band of Comanches, led by Santanc and Big Tree, came up in retrospect.

The vivid recital of Dick, the guide, as he told the hair-raising story of the massacre of the teamsters after a fierce battle, the burning of the wagons with the wounded tied to the wheels, and the finding of their charred remains after the holocaust, was listened to with all the thrill of viewing the ground made historic by the tragic event. It had been exhilarating excitement at the time to hear Dick tell of the narrow escape of Gen. Tecumseh Sherman, who was then making a tour of inspection of the frontier army posts of Texas, and was within a few miles of the massacre with a small escort on his way to Fort Richardson, and arrived at General Mc- Kinzie's headquarters when a messenger was telling the sad story. It was electrifying to remember that General Sherman became so excited that he ordered General McKinzie to take command of the 7th Cavalry and follow them — "follow them to the reservation and capture them. General — follow them to hell and capture or kill them — don't return without Santanc and Big Tree."

And tonight these four young men remembered that they, too, were within that danger zone where the red warriors resented the white man's invasion, and that they never lost an opportunity to kill, bum and destroy their enemies. And even now there was a possibility that at any moment they might be called on to defend themselves. This was calculated to knock all of the romance out of their previous conception of the West, and leave but little of the buoyant spirit that prompted them to make the journey. And, to judge from appearances, this was to be the beginning of the end of all of their venture into the realm where heroes are made: How different to be face to face with the real West, where real live Indians lived!

Even Dick, the guide, seemed to fall under the spell, and instead of cheerfully whistling as usual while attending to the routine of camp life, used cuss-words while repairing a break in the harness, and made no effort to conceal his irritability over trivial incidents.

The uncertainty of their future movements, no doubt, had much to do with the depression that took possession of the camp, and cast a gloomy shadow over their spirits.

But Kentuck, so nicknamed by his companions, was an optimist of the most pronounced type, and never gave himself up to gloomy thoughts or predicting disaster, and on this occasion resorted to raillery to arouse his companions from their gloomy lethargy.

"Homesick, boys?" he inquired, as he looked around the circle of dejected countenances.

"Well. I'm not particularly stuck on the situation," replied Allen Forts, the youngest member of the group.

"I confess that I just begin to realize that it was not a wise venture to come out into this wild country without any preparation or forethought," said Sam Gazel.

"Oh, we are a set of visionary galoots, carried away on the wings of the 'W'ild \\''est' novel stories, and now we have butted up against the facts after a flight of a few hundred miles in search of ideals. I guess it is about time to hold a consultation," remarked Bill James.

"Cheer up !" exclaimed Kentuck. "You remind me of a bunch of kids, afraid of being spanked. We will hold a council in the morning and determine on a plan of action. For myself, I am well pleased with the prospects, and have made up my mind to remain and grow up with the country. I did not expect to occupy a seat in the grand stand and listen to the band play, while the cowboys and Indians did their stunts in the arena. Perhaps you kids want the peanuts and the lemonade passed around ?"

"Oh, dry up, Kentuck," said Sam Gazel ; "it is bad enough to have the blues, with.out listening to your 'joshing.' It sounds like a lecture from my father when I used to stump my toe and was nursing my foot with both hands. You darned ninnies make me sick, commiserating over imaginary ills. You remind me very much of an old maid in the mountains of Kentuckv, sitting in the door of her cabin one bright day in the springtime, when the robin redbreast was picking up worms in the furrow behind the plowman, and the martins circHng around the 'cat and clay' chimney, looking for an opening to build their nests; this poor, dejected lady was weeping aloud in her distress. Fortunately, a good neighborly matron came in time to offer condolence. 'What, in the world is the matter, Cynthia?'

" 'Oh, Mrs. Kiser,' said the distressed old maid, wringing her hands and rocking to and fro ; 'suppose I was married and had a sweet little baby boy — and — and — he was to take sick and die — Oh, wouldn't it be awful? Boo — boohoo — it nearly kills me to think about it.' "

"Well, I'll be damned," said Dick, the guide. "The old gal was powerfully worked up, warn't she ?"

"That's right, Kentuck ; rub it in. But you are not so lighthearted, I don't think, as you pretend to be," retorted Sam Gazel.

"Oh, )'es, I am," said Kentuck; "I never felt better and had less pricks of conscience than at the present moment. 'Tis true we are out in the 'Wild West,' with no well defined ideas or definite object in view. And, perhaps, it is time for sober thought and calm reflection, instead of our usual after supper jollity, before rolling up in our blankets for the night. But I can see no cause for depression. From the view we obtained of the fort from the top of the divide, a few miles back on the trail, I anticipate we will have an interesting time when we cross the river in the morning. So let's have a comfortable rest while we smoke."

No one answered Kentuck's last remarks, and the campers relapsed once more into silence.

In the meantime, while thus preoccupied with their thoughts and oblivious to their surroundings, a band of

Tonkawa Indian scouts arrived at the village of the tribe, situated behind a rocky bluff concealed from the camp at the crossing where the young men were enjoying their quiet smoke. The distance between the camp and the Indian village was about one-half mile around a bend, and their presence was not known to Kentuck and his companions.

Consequently, when the friendly Tonks began to beat their "tom-toms" preparatory to celebrating their victory over the Comanches, it created almost a panic in the camp where these young men were lounging around the fire.

They were not prepared for the "Yip! Yip! Hiyi ! Hiyi ! Kyaw ! Kyeeaw ! Yip ! Yip !" of the warwhoop, as it floated out on the night air with blood-curdling distinctness.

"What in the devil is that?" exclaimed Allen Forts, as he jumped to his feet.

The others turned their heads and looked at Dick in mute surprise.

"Don't you all get frisky now, and try to stampede, 'cause that's nothing but them measly old Tonks having a powwow up the creek," remarked Dick. "Been out with a government exhibition after a bunch of Comanches, I guess. 'Twas the same thing the last time I came out here. They always go crazy when they return from a raid, especially if they happen to pot one of their old enemies ; they arc sure to go bucking around in their outlandish dance like a fellow with a bad case of the 'jim-jams.' Would you like to see 'em play the game, gents?"

"I wouldn't miss it for a great deal," said Kentuck.

"You bet. I sure want to see some real Indians, especially a war-dance," said Sam Gazel.

"Well, if it is a free show you can count me in, too," remarked Bill James.

"Well, I'm 'Johnny on the spot,' too," said Allen Forts.

"All right, gents ; wait until I throw the 'grub' into the wagon, to keep the coyotes from carrying it off ; then we will climb the rocky bluff, where we can look down on the racket."

It required only a few minutes to secure the provisions, and, taking the precaution to carry their arms, they ascended the bluff that hid the Tonkawa village from their view.

From this vantage ground they were given the rare opportunity of witnessing a genuine Indian war dance without embarassing the situation with their presence.

It was a wild, picturesque scene, and required no embellishing to make it intensely interesting to the spectators.

In the center of a grove of cottonwood, pecan and elm trees, an Indian village of about twenty-five tepees surrounded an open plot of ground, perhaps one-half acre, in the shape of an arena.

Occupying the center of this space was a large bonfire burning brightly, revealing all the surrounding objects within the radius of the circle of firelight, making an excellent background of scenic display, whose natural beauty was grand, beyond the conception of the most eminent artist that ever attempted to place on canvas the delicate lights and shades that hide within the depths of the leafy bowers, where the swinging branches cast moving shadows upon the ground, in harmony with the forms of the youths and maidens of the tribe, who lingered in the subdued light near the tepees, and watched the exciting scenes in which they were forbidden to participate. Looking down from the heights above the view was so fascinating, that the young men were spellbound, and not even Kentuck could find voice to break the spell. From out the shadow young- squaws came laden with fuel to the fire, and from time to time replenished it with limbs of dead mesquite trees and rosin weeds, causing the flames to flash up with a sudden glare, producing a weird appearance, like a scene in the play of "Faust." The red warriors, decked out in all the gaudy ornaments that their savage ingenuity could devise, and resplendent with feather-crested war bonnets, beaded and fringed hunting shirts and leggins, brandishing their tomahawks as they maneuvered in a circle with the fire as a pivot, were the star actors in the realistic drama demonstrating the force of Indian enthusiasm.

The squaws of mature age formed an outer circle at a safe distance from the active performance of the warriors, where they kept up a crooning song, clapping their hands and marking time with their feet to the monotonous thumping of the "tom-toms" by the old warriors in the background.

Chief Johnson's imposing figure led the young braves through the figures of the dance.

Fast and furious grew the exciting sport as the dancing figures hopped and skipped around the blazing fire, pausing a moment at the end of certain maneuvers, to shout, "Yip! Yip! Hiyi! Hyki ! Kyaw ! Kyeeaw ! Yip! Yip!"

Fascinated and spellbound, these young men looked down from their elevated position on a scene equal to a passion play, and presenting all the striking features of an Indian scouting party, trailing, fighting and killing their enemies.

Could this real Indinn war dance have been staged, with all the true features of these earnest warriors.

giving- vent to their fiery hatred of their enemies (not the Wild West show imitations), it would make an audience sit up and take notice.

Chief Johnson would stoop down and point to the ground to indicate the discovery of moccasin tracks ; then he would run forward on the trail, followed by the young warriors, in hot pursuit of the enemy. Now and then they would stop for a moment and shade their eyes with their hands as they looked into the distance for signs of their foes ; then off again on the trail with untiring energy ; pausing a moment, they gather around the chief for consultation, and point to some distant object as though their foe was now in sight ; again on the trail, exhibiting caution and strategy as they advance to engage in battle ; the warwhoop is given as they dash forward to charge the ranks of the enemy ; fighting at close range with the long-bow ; charging forward with spear and tomahawk ; hand to hand with hunting-knife ; a stroke in the heart and stooping to tear off the fallen foe's scalp — acted with all the fiery passion of their savage natures.

There, under the canopy of the star-sprinkled sky, in a natural theater with tree-lined walls, was presented a drama, crudely but faithfully portrayed in the flickering light of a camp fire.

It was midnight before the spectators on the bluff were content to retire to their camp ; and even then they were not tired of watching the Indians. But remembering that they were nearing their jorney's end, and that the morrow promised greater possibilities, they agreed to retire.

"Do you know that what I have witnessed tonight, boys, has repaid me for the time and expense of my journey west? It was a revelation that knocked all my previous conceptions of Indians in the head. I have always beheved them to be a cold, impassive people, incapable of expressing emotion, or exhibiting human characteristics. But now I am free to admit that the red man possesses like passions with his white brother," said Kentuck.

"I would not have missed the show for a great deal. Whether I decide to remain in the West or return to my home, I will always remember the war dance on the banks of the Clear Fork of the Brazos river in Texas,'" said Allen Forts.

"Well, ril admit there is no more comparison between the real war dance and the novel writer's description than there is between a papoose and a negro baby," remarked Bill James.

"It was an excellent entertainment, all right, and I would have paid an admission fee rather than miss it," said Sam Gazel.

"You will soon git used to that kind of a racket if you stay out here," remarked Dick.

"The more I see of this country, the more determined I am to remain. There is a great future full of bright promises in store for the people who build homes and till the rich soil of these broad prairies," said Kentuck.

"Maybe," said Dick, "but I am gitting too sleepy to talk about the future. Let's all roll in and take a snooze."

Securing Dick's promise to awaken them at "peep o' day," they were soon enjoying that refreshing slumber that comes to those who spread their blankets in the open air, where the life-giving ozone comes with each gentle respiration.

And, respected reader, by reason of the fact that only one of these four young men remained on the frontier of Texas to become identified with passing events, it is unnecessary to give a description of the three who returned with Dick the second day after their arrival. But for a better understanding of what follows in the rapid course of events during the development of Northwest Texas, it becomes necessary to introduce the one who remained, to live and work out his destiny among the hardy settlers, who successfully met and bravely overcame the difficulties that attend the settlement of a new country.

Proud of his nickname, "Kentuck," and possessing all the activity and keen interest of a healthy young man, he displayed a love for adventure so characteristic of one born in the northeastern part of the Old Commonwealth, where the Ohio river winds its way through beautiful mountain scenery, and the inhabitants are the descendants of the Scotch-Irish immigrants who came from the mountain homes across the sea to build new homes in the mountains of Kentucky, where the great forests, overhanging cliffs and bubbling springs invited them to congenial surroundings. Here among his native hills, Kentuck grew to young manhood, under the guiding care of a noble father and a pious mother, who were too practical to understand the artistic and poetic nature of their son when he wasted much valuable time with pen and pencil instead of following some useful trade or occupation. Consequently that longing desire, ever present, never satisfied, to exercise freedom of choice, led Kentuck to escape parental restraint and journey to Texas. Of medium height and slender build, his buoyant spirits and optimisitic views, and the possession of common sense to practice tact and adaptability in harmony with his environments, proved a valuable passport to the friendship of the frontier people.

As per agreement, Dick aroused the four young men from their slumbers when the first streaks of dawn began to tinge the eastern sky.

After a brief consultation they decided to climb the hill near the fort before sunrise, that they might catch all the effects of the lights and shades of the new-born day, as it emerged from the mysterious depths of the night.

Leaving Dick to care for the camp and cook breakfast, Kentuck and his companions crossed the Clear Fork on a causeway of rocks that afforded facilities for pedestrians when the water was low, and walked up Griffin avenue to Government Hill, before any of the inhabitants of the Flat were awake. The jumble of houses on either side of the street could not be dignified by the name of town, but should more properly be designated as a temporary group of houses to meet the emergency of a demand for shelter for the men who made the Flat a resort. These people cared nothing for their personal appearance, much less for the art of town building.

Instead of following the approach to the fort, Kentuck and his companions ascended the hill to a point of observation to the left of the military reservation, where an unobstructed view was presented of the fort, the Flat and the valley of the Clear Fork.

And now, reader, if you have any curiosity that will lead you to investigate, take a map of Texas and trace a due west line from Dallas county until you find the county of Shackelford, then the last organized county in the tier, and to which all unorganized counties were attached for judicial i:)urposcs. Near the center of Shackelford is located the county seat town of .Albany. Due north from Albany is located Fort Griffin, on the banks of the Clear Fork, the central supply point of the great cattle range that furnished the ranchmen 300 miles distant. Here, too, the "chuck" wagons on the overland trail from Southern Texas replenished their stores, and the buffalo hunters loaded their wagons with ammunition and provisions.

The importance of the position was recognized by the United States government and the State of Texas, both quartering troops here.

Consequently it can easily be recognized what an important part Fort Griffin played in the history of Texas during the '70s and '80s, and that the reminiscences of those days have a value far beyond their recital in this volume.

Fort Griffin, during this period of its existence, quartered seven companies of United States troops commanded by General Buell.

The town known as the Flat surrounded the base of Government Hill and was the central trading point for the cattlemen 200 miles west. It was also headquarters for an army of buffalo hunters and the intermediate supply point on the overland cattle trail between Southern Texas and the Kansas feeding pens, before offering them for sale in the St. Louis and Chicago markets.

Situated sixty miles from any other settlement, the fort formed a nucleus around which flourished the most notorious town in the "Wild West."

To these four young men, who for the first time had ventured beyond the confines of civilization, it was like entering a new world.

From their position on the top of the hill they secured an excellent view of the surrounding country, and also looked down upon the irregular mass of business houses, restaurants, saloons, dance halls, wagon yards, and all other kinds of habitations growing out of the necessities of the situation. And this place had the reputation of being the fastest town on the frontier.

Outside of the town in every direction the country was uninhabited. Off to the south and southeast bunches of cattle were grazing on last year's crop of grass that retained some of its nutritious virtues, and was the only provender that sustained animal life during the winter months on the range.

Near a water hole in the valley at the foot of the hill a trail wagon outfit loaded with buffalo hides was camped — three wagons coupled together and drawn by fifteen pair of oxen when in motion, but now leisurely grazing near camp while the teamster and his help were cooking their breakfast.

W^hen they had come in sight of Fort Grifiin the evening before, Dick had informed them that this was the last white man's habitation going west toward the New Mexico line, but they had not realized the significance of the announcement until now, as they stood there in the early morning light, and saw the gray curtain of dawn pushed aside by the first rays of the sun.

They were now in the center of that great open range that belonged to the cattle barons by right of possession. All of this vast country was the spoils of conquest from the Indians and Mexicans. The ranchman could ride over his free range, whose imaginary boundaries were always respected by his neighbors, who demanded a like privilege for themselves. Primitive and rough, but an ideal life they lived in the pure open air on the prairie, camping wherever night overtook them.