On land and sea

Front matter

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Part First

I SEEK THE ACQUAINTANCE OF A SMILING AND BLAND CAPTAIN, WHO AGREES TO MAKE A SAILOR OF ME. — OFF FOR CALIFORNIA. — THE FIRST NIGHT AT SEA. — MY SHIPMATES AND MESSMATES. — THE STORM, AND THE EFFECT OF BEING SEA-SICK. — SHIP’S DUTY. — THE MYSTERI- OUS SCHOONER, AND A SAILING MATCH.

Part Second. Gamming With A Slaver. — What Was Wanted. — Water For Gold

— A SICKENING SIGHT AND SMELL. — A MATE WHO DID NOT KNOW.

— ON THE PASSAGE. —A GALE. — THE DOCTOR GROANS AND YELLS WORSE THAN EVER, AND LEWEY EXPERIMENTS WITH HIM, AND THE RESULT IS SUCCESSFUL. — OFF CAPE HORN. — A LONELY ISLAND, AND A SAD DEATH. — LEWEY’S POULTRY YARD.

Part Third

LEWEY AND I TRY THE POULTRY TRADE, BUT THE CAPTAIN BREAKS UP THE BUSINESS. — A RAIN-STORM. — THE TREE AT SEA. — ARRIVAL AT MONTEREY. — THE U. S. SLOOP-OF-WAR DALE. — SIGHTS AND SOUNDS.

— LIBERTY ON SHORE. — HOW SUNDAY WAS PASSED. — DRUNKEN MEN, AND FIGHTING SAILORS.

Part Fourth

PUNISHMENT ON BOARD A MAN-OF-WAR. — MAKING SPREAD-EAGLES OF SAILORS. — A GALE OF WIND. — THE SHIP’S AGENT, — IN THE SURF. — LANDING CARGO. — LIBERTY ON SHORE. — A FETE DAY WITH THE MEXICANS IN MONTEREY. — LEWEY’S FIRE-CRACKERS. — HOW WE WALTZED WITH THE GIRLS.

Part Fifth

LIBERTY ON SHORE AT MONTEREY. — DINNER AT MR. LARKIN’S. — THE EFFECTS OF A BOTTLE OF NATIVE WINE. — THE BOYS HAVE A LITTLE FUN HORSE-BACK RIDING. — SOME MORE FIRE-CRACKERS. — THE CAP- TAIN AND THE BEARS. — HE TALKS SPANISH. — ARRIVALS. — SAIL HO.

Part Sixth

THE SLOOP-OF-WAR CEYNNE BEATING INTO MONTEREY HARBOR. — SAIL- ING OF THE DALE. — EXCHANGE OF CHEERS. — A NAVAL CAPTAIN’S KIND WORD. — A DEER HUNT. — A ROW ON BOARD. — HOW IT WAS QUELLED. —A DONCELLITA’S SWEET LIPS. — LEWEY AS A COOK, AND HOW HE FAILED. — UNDER WAY. — A RACE WITH THE CEYNNE.

IV

Contents .

Part Seventh

THE RACE, AND ITS RESULT. — WORKING SHIP TO WINDWARD. — SANTA CRUZ. — A DUCKING. — A FEAST OF STRAWBERRIES. — CAPTAIN GRA- HAM. — OFF FOR SAN FRANCISCO. — HOW THE TOWN LOOKED FROM TELEGRAPH HILL. — ARRIVAL OF THE CEYNNE. — CAPTAINS RICHARD- SON AND SUTTER. — MILKING A COW. — SAN JOSE. — A HORSEBACK RIDE.

Part Eighth

OFF FOR MURPHY’S RANCHE. — A JOKE WITH A SEA-LION. — AN OLD SAILOR MOLLIFIED. — AN AMERICAN HUSBAND, AND MEXICAN WIFE. — A SICK CHILD. — LEWEY AS A DOCTOR. — A STRONG TEMPTATION. — A CARGO OF DEER FOR THE CEYNNE. — SAN LEANDY AND A PRETTY WIFE. — OLD JONES ATTEMPTS TO KILL A BULLOCK. — OFF FOR THE LEEWARD. — RANCHE REFUGIO, AND ITS LADIES. — SANTA BARBARA.

Part Ninth

MY FIRST DINNER AT SANTA BARBARA. — DON NORIEGO AND FAMILY. — MEXICAN SPORTS AND HORSEMANSHIP. — DISTINGUISHED COMPANY ON SHIPBOARD. — MY PRECIOUS BURDEN. — I GET COMPLIMENTED. — A WOMAN’S CONFIDENCE. — LEWEY RECEIVES A BLESSING. — OFF FOR SAN PEDRO. — CELEBRATING THE FOURTH OF JULY. — A NOTED PER- SON. — A SAILING MATCH. — SAN DIEGO. — CLEARING SHIP. — A DOG- FIGHT.

Part Tenth

SAN PEDRO. —DUCKS AND WATER. — PASSAGE TO SANTA BARBARA.— GENERAL CASTRO ISSUES A PROCLAMATION, AND VISITS OUR SHIP. — THE RANCHE REFUGIO. — OUR DISAPPOINTMENT. — SAN LUIS OBISPO. — THE CAVE. — WATCHING HIDES ON SHORE. AND A FANDANGO. — ANI- TA AND ENGRACIA. — MONTEREY, AND THE NEW GOVERNOR. — MEXI- CAN TROOPS. — ARRIVAL OF WHALESHIP MAGNOLIA, OF NEW BEDFORD.

— MINCE PIES. — LEWEY AND I ARE INVITED TO GIVE AN ENTERTAIN- MENT ON SHORE BEFORE THE ELITE OF MONTEREY, AND WE ACCEPT THE HONOR.

Part Eleventh

OUR EXHIBITION AT MONTEREY. — A SURPRISED AND DELIGHTED AUDI- ENCE. THE ALCALDA MAKES A SPEECH. — A PREMATURE EXPLO- SION. — SOME GRAND AND LOFTY TUMBLING. — A RACE. — SAN LUIS.

— RANCHE REFUGIO. — SANTA BARBARA. — CATCHING FINBACKS. SAN

PEDRO. —LETTERS FROM HOME. — A BEAR HUNT.

Part Twelfth

SAN DIEGO. — A STING-RAY. — FISHING AMONG THE KELP. — A SHIP LOADING FOR HOME. — ANOTHER REVOLUTION. — PRONUNCIAMENTOS.

— A PANIC AT MONTEREY. — THE MIDNIGHT GUN. — SAVING WOMEN AND

CHILDREN. — AN UNGRATEFUL GIRL. — UP AND DOWN THE COAST.

SAN FRANCISCO. — A TERRIBLE DEATH. — A DEER HUNT. — BOARD- ING SHIP UNDER DIFFICULTIES. — WAR THREATENED BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES AND MEXICO. — THE LAST RESORT FOR A DISCHARGE

— GOOD-BY.

CHASED BY A SLAVER,

Part First

I SEEK THE ACQUAINTANCE OF A SMILING AND BLAND CAPTAIN, WHO AGREES TO MAKE A SAILOR OF ME. — OFF FOR CALIFORNIA. — THE FIRST NIGHT AT SEA. — MY SHIPMATES AND MESSMATES. — THE STORM, AND THE EFFECT OF BEING SEA-SICK. — SHIP’S DUTY. — THE MYSTERI- OUS SCHOONER, AND A SAILING MATCH.

T HERE were several reasons why I visited California in 1843, and remained on the coast for nearly three years, engaged in the laborious and not very agreeable work of hide-droghing, a branch of industry that belonged almost exc’usively to two Boston firms, — Messrs. Appleton & Hooper, and Bryant & Sturgis. It was a lucrative trade, and the abovenamed gentlemen worked it for all that it was worth for many years, or until after the annexation of California, and the discovery of gold on one of the forks of the American River, near the fortifications of Captain Sutter, the latter about a mile from what is now known as Sacramento City.

The first reason that I had for going to sea was because I wanted to look at the world, and especially California, as I had read Mr. Dana's “ Two Years Before the Mast,” and, boy like, wanted to encounter the dangers that he had met with. I desired to see the same ports that he had

On Land and Sea.

visited, to get wet in the same surf, to gaze at the same pretty Mexican ladies, the same indolent Mexican Caballeros, the same shiftless Indians, and the same skillful horse-riding rancheros. I was a boy of fifteen, and, like other boys of the same age, thought it was brave and manly to leave home, and home comforts, for the hardships of a sailor’s life, yet, in later years, when I often exchanged a few words with Mr. Dana, I told him that to his book was I indebted for many months of the hardest work of my life, and, at the same time, the happiest, strange as it may seem.

The second reason for going to sea was because I did not like to study ; was a nuisance to all my relatives and guardian ; and by my persistency in preferring a sailor’s life to any other. It was my delight to be on the water, to row a boat, to sail one, and many were the terrible hints that I would sometimes drop as to my firm intention, at a distant day, of becoming a famous pirate, or a noted and rich slaver, and making every one but the pretty and young girls walk the plank, while idle hours were passed at some tropical retreat, where fruit and light vines were plenty, and the head pirates of all were waited on by dusky slave girls, who would watch our every word and gesture with trembling patience, and hope for a smile.

Of course, after such atrocious sentiments as these, my friends gave me up in despair. It was resolved, in family council, that I was a young monster, and that only a long and difficult voyage, under a tartar captain, would drive the nonsense out of my mind and body, and I was told to look for a ship, and go in her, as soon as possible, and that is the way I happened to enroll my name on the shipping papers of the Admittance, of Boston, belonging to the house of William Appleton & Samuel Hooper, both gentlemen, in later years, serving the State in Congress for several terms.

The vessel was commanded by Peter Peterson, a raw-boned Dane by birth, his first trip as master, but who had made several voyages to California as second and first mate, under Captain Arthur, of the old ship California, in 1836-39, consequently he was well acquainted with the coast, and knew all about the trade, and how much cheating the Mexicans would stand, and how frequently they could cheat us, and not get exposed.

It was with a bland and beautiful expression that Captain Peterson received my advances for a position on his ship. I thought I had never seen a more genial and engaging smile as he told me that his vessel intended to carry six boys ; that they would all be required to live, and mess, in the steerage, to avoid being contaminated by the crew of the forecastle; and he was also pleased to tell me that he really guessed I would make a thorough sailor, and in a few years command a ship, which I thought was next to be-

On Land and Sea.

ing a crowned monarch, or the captain of a fire company, and yell through a trumpet to the boys to “ Walk her up.”

My delight was great, almost uncontrollable, when the captain, still smiling, like a spring morning, said that he would take me, if my relatives and guardian were willing, and that he was authorized by the owners to offer me the munificent sum of six dollars per month for my valuable services. If he had said one dollar, instead of six, I should have jumped, and closed with his offer. Then he gave me lots of nice advice about obeying orders readily, and being good and faithful, and said that the avocation of a sailor was a noble one, and that the returns were always sure and certain, — when they came in, and hinted that I must go to the custom house, and get a protection, because a protection protected a United-States sailor in every part of the world ; a statement which was slightly tinged with romance, as I afterward found out, when I needed the strong arm of an American consul, and discovered that the arm was as weak as potter’s wet clay. Other sailors have had the same experiences, I have no doubt, if they would relate them.

Well, at last all preliminary arrangements were made. I signed my name to the ship’s articles, obtained my protection, a chest brim full of sea clothes, and some few luxuries, quite a number of Mexican dollars in ready money, to spend on the coast of California, if we ever arrived there, and had the happiness of seeing my dunnage on board, my bunk made up, and even lent a hand to the riggers, which caused one of them to laugh and remark, —

“ Well, youngster, you ’ll get all the pulling and hauling you want before you get around Cape Horn, or I ’m much mistaken ; ” and I found his words quite prophetic ; but Captain Peterson, who was on board looking after cargo and stores, and uttering strong expressions when things did not go to suit him, smiled, and remarked that, —

“ You is a born sailor, Thom, and vill make a smart von,” which was delicious music to my ears at the moment, but I have often thought since that time what an ass I made of myself to pull and haul ropes when there was no occasion for me to do so.

On the 27th day of October, 1842, we unmoored from Lewis Wharf, and dropped anchor in the stream, to receive powder on board, of which we took large quantities. Tt was all stowed in casks in the run, out of the way of fire and lights, and about eleven o’clock A. M. the balance of our crew were parbuckled on board, some drunk, as a matter of course, and then the windlass was manned, sail made, and out of the harbor we steered,

On Laud and Sea.

and at one o’clock P. M. we discharged our pilot, and were off for California.

Amid all the confusion that occurred on board 1 tried to do my full share of work, for I ran when the men ran, I pulled when the rest did, was ready to let go of any rope that 1 was told to, although .once the red-faced second mate blanked all of my relatives to eternal blankation because, in my eagerness to obey orders, 1 nearly let go of the maintopsail halyards instead of a certain brace, and the captain, who was walking the quarter deck, in deep meditation, and solitary grandeur, smiled a sweet and gentle smile, but did not rebuke the officer, or open his arms to call me to his side, and pet me, as he might have done. We were now on the sea, and a captain’s demean or on land and salt water is very different, as a general thing, as boys are well aware.

However, I wanted to show r the master that I had no ill feeling toward him, so waited until he came near the mainmast, and then said very politely, —

“A nice day, captain. I hope we shall have a pleasant passage.”

He stopped short in his promenade, and grasped hold of the maintopsail sheet to prevent falling, so much was he surprised, and then he managed to gasp out, —

“ Veil, I ’m blanked ! ”

“ If this wind holds, captain, do you think we can get to California in a month’s time?” I demanded, but noticed that there was no smile soft and bland on his face, just at that time. To my surprise his gray eyes looked threatening, and his face flushed, and his teeth came together with a snap, as he yelled out, —

“You goes for’ard, and mind your vork, or I ’ll California you. Mr. Prentice,” to the chief mate, a man whom I shall speak of hereafter, “ can’t you find something for dis boy to do, vot is vondering round de deck, and in nobody’s mess ? ”

“ Ay, ay, sir. I think the foretop-mast needs slushing down. Get the slush-bucket, you Thom, and up aloft with you, and give it a lick ; ” and that is what I got for daring to be familiar with Captain Peterson on his own quarter deck, outside of Boston light, near Minot’s ledge.

As I am writing these lines I have the captain’s private diary before me, with every day’s account of that voyage, and, although my name appears on its pages very often, not always for good conduct, but for some species ot boyish prank and fun, he does not even mention this important incident, or state that he was sorry for the disagreeable job he caused me on that Octo-

On Land and Sea.

ber afternoon, when I did not have my sea-legs on, and while my stomach was in an unsettled state, for the ship felt the motion of the swell in the bay, and I was all ready to pay tribute to Neptune at the proper time. But, thank the Lord for one thing, tht mate did not give me any particular directions about slushing down the foretop-mast. He was too busy catting the anchor, and getting it secured on the bows for the night, and setting studding-sails, for the wind was fresh from the southerd and westerd, and we were headed to pass between Georges Banks and Nantucket Shoals, and all the officers were doing their best to make the captain think they were smart and active; but, in the mean time, I was perched in the rigging, holding on with one hand, and putting slush on the spar with the other, and the largest portion went on the forward part of the mast, the very place you are usually told to avoid, so that the sail will not be soiled when it slaps against the spar in a calm. I shall never forget how Mr. Prentice blanked my eyes when he discovered what I had done toward ornamenting the sail, and, while he was yelling to me, and I was looking over the top at his angry, upturned face, a disease, called by the polite French mal de mers, or seasickness, seized me as a victim, and I felt my stomach turn upside down, and, holding on to the topmast rigging until I almost squeezed the tar from the rope, I knew something rushed to my throat, and, before I could turn my head, there was a deluge, and the shower was directed toward the deck,, and the mate acknowledged the compliment by wiping his hands, and blanking every one an inch high, and me in particular, until at last I came to the conclusion that he had never seen the inside of a Sunday school during his long and wicked life.

Captain Peterson is now a grave and dignified old gentleman, a great friend of mine, and one whom I revere and respect, and once a week he drops into my office, and smokes a friendly cigar, but he has never apologized for his repulsing my patronizing advances on that, our first day at sea, and, as he may have forgotten the circumstance, I recall it, in hope that he will offer some explanation, at this late day, for sending me aloft to slush down spars.

But my job was at last finished, and I descended to the deck, and the mate roared, —

“ Where in blankation did you come from, you boy ? ”

“ From up there,” I answered, and pointed to the fore-top, quite innocently.

“ You ’re a fool,” was the unsatisfactory retort.

He was very near right, for only a fool of a boy would have left a good

IO

On Land and Sea.

home to enter upon a sailor’s life, on a long voyage to California, at six dollars per month, and a liberal distribution of hard words on the part of the officers, when in an ill humor, and a fierce kick if things did not move to suit them.

During the whole of the afternoon the crew were busily engaged in putting on chaffing gear, for the backstays had to be covered with mats to prevent the yards from injuring the rigging, the swifters had to be looked after, new ropes rove, sails trimmed to suit the fastidious taste of the captain, who still walked the quarter deck, looking after the ship, her course, and all the work that was going on, yet not uttering a word, except to the chief mate, who received his orders in silence, and then darted to all parts of the ship, to see that they were properly executed, stirring up the laggards, howling to the men who were aloft, directing the second and third officers what to do, and yet, in all the confusion that existed, according to my ideas, there was order and discipline, energy and much hard work, even if some of the men were still under the baneful influence of strong drink, and hardly capable of holding on, away up aloft, by their eyelids, and working with their hands, as sailors are compelled to do at all times, in gales and calms.

But as two bells drew near, or five o’clock in the afternoon, marlin-spikes were put away, the decks were cleared up for the night, the rigging was coiled down so that it could be let go at a moment’s warning, and then the first mate walked to the galley where the black cook presided, and said, —

“ Doctor, give the people their supper.”

The cook was the “ doctor,” and no one on board ever thought of calling him cook, unless it was the captain, who was too dignified to nickname any one.

We crowded to the galley, and received our quart of hot tea, made sweet with molasses, and tasting a little herby, — for it is not first-class tea that sailors receive, and they do not expect it, but ours was as good as the usual run, — a kid of salt beef, some hard bread, and then the boys retired to the steerage, where we were to mess and sleep, in company with the carpenter, and, for the first time, 1 had an opportunity to look around me, and see who were my shipmates, and what they were like, for, although my stomach was not in good order, and the bilge-water made it feel ill, and my appetite was not strong enough to relish salt meat, still I felt as though the hot tea would do me good, and that I must eat a biscuit to sustain me during the long watches of the night, as I had been given to understand that I should

On Land and Sea.

1 1 be expected to do duty on deck, when I had much rather have been in my bunk, and, oh, the changeful disposition of a boy, I would have given a million dollars, if I had been worth as much money, if I could have been dumped on to Lewis Wharf, which I had left with such a nautical swagger at an early hour that very morning, and once more felt and enjoyed the comforts of home.

There were six of us boys in the steerage, all about the same age, except a French lad, named Louis, — but whom we called Lewey, as he gave the pronunciation, — a good-natured, jolly, handsome fellow, who had wandered to Boston from Havre-de-Grace, or some other place, and cared but little where he went, as long as he could be under pay, get his rations, and learn the English language. He was something of a sailor, a communionist, a socialist, and often expressed to me, in the lonely watches of the night, his great desire to be a pirate, and to have me as his first officer, so that we could divide our plunder fairly, while of the women prisoners he always insisted that he should have the first choice, and once we fought over that knotty point, because I declared that I would not submit to his dictation about the females, but would take the prettiest myself. He hit me on the face, and I tore out great handfuls of hair from his head, and then Mr. Prentice, the mate, interfered, and gave us a tonic, by sending us to slush down the topgallant-masts, and that was the first and last serious trouble between Lewey and myself while we were shipmates and companions together, for we became chums at once, and agreed to share equally all prisoners, and other personal property, when we assumed the role of pirates, which we hoped to do at some distant day, and we often whispered how we would make the captain walk the plank, and then starve the rest of the officers, until they begged our pardons for past injuries, and would serve us faithfully in the future.

The rest of the boys were named Bill, Tom, Harry, and Frank, and were as green as myself, except Harry, who had made a voyage to the East Indies and back, and thereupon took unto himself the airs of an old salt, and actually ruled us for a month or more, until the rest of us got our sea legs on, and then we sized him down, and found that he could bluster, but did not work, and in a short time there was not a lad in the steerage but was enabled to hand and loose a royal as quick as Harry, and set a top-gallant studding-sail far better, and this the mate soon found out, and he named Harry the “ Old Sojer,” and that stuck to him until he left the ship months afterward. Once the lad threatened to throw me from the mizzen-top-gallant yard, while we were furling the sail, during a squall. He was to the

On Land and Sea.

windward of the bunt, and I was to the leeward, and the sail slapping like mad, but he never repeated the threat, and before we were up with Cape Horn Harry used to crave the honor of bringing my pot of tea or coffee from the galley. There was no further trouble among the boys during the passage out, for the mate kept a sharp eye on us, and quelled all attempts at bullying from any one. He wanted to do all the fighting himself, he said.

But I must give a description of our crew, for we have many months before us, and it is necessary that the reader should know them. First the captain, or “ old man,” as every one called him when he was not within hearing distance. As I have said, he was a Dane by birth, about thirtythree years of age, six feet four inches tall, with not a surplus pound of flesh on his bones, strong as a mule, and, like a mule, inclined to kick when things did not go just as he thought they should, bearing the reputation of being a tartar among those with whom he had sailed, and I rather think it was justifiable, for he was quick, too much so on some occasions, yet, at this late day, I can safely state that he was the best sailor I ever met on a quarter-deck, and that he knew his work, from thumbing a mat, to taking an observation of a heavenly planet, that he could safely handle a ship in all kinds of weather, and, if I have any knowledge of seamanship, it is because I learned it by observing his motions as he watched the sails, the yards, and the spars. All the time I was with him we never lost a stick, and yet he could crowd the old Admittance so that she fairly jumped out of the water, when favorable winds drove us on our course. The ship was only about five hundred tons burden, the best sea boat, and the fastest vessel that I ever sailed in, and only once aid we meet our match, and that was a slaver, off the coast of Africa, of which I shall have occasion to speak further on.

Captain Peterson was unmarried, but there was a rumor among us boys that he had left a sweetheart in Boston, or somewhere else, to whom he was to be united on his return, so he was not a pleasant companion for his officers, or the solitary passenger who was in the cabin, a Mr. Cushing, a young fellow who was going to California as supercargo’s clerk, and grow up to the business.

Of all the disagreeable beings in the world a man on shipboard, who is in love, is the worst, for he is thinking of the girl he left behind, and is tormented by jealousy, for fear she will smile, or flirt, with some other fellow, and, as a general thing, they do, for the temptation is great, and woman’s nature is confiding, and her sailor is far away, and will never hear of the

On Land and Sea.

1 3 waltzes, and little, parties, where waists are squeezed, and hands gently pressed, by ardent young men.

The captain was not strong in his English at that time. The vowels troubled him more than navigating the ship. He would seize on a “ w,” wrestle with it in a furious manner, toss it back and forth, and try to trip it up» yet that weak little vowel would always throw him, big as he was. But he was never discouraged by non-success, and generally came up smiling, to grapple once more, and again suffer defeat. The definite “ the ” was another enemy, always lurking near to aggravate him, and lead him along until the proper time, and then floor him, for the “ the ” was turned into “de,” and this enemy of foreigners always came up on top, and laughed at all efforts to defeat it, and when the old man would roar out to me, —

“ You Thom, what de debil you doing dare ? ” I always knew better than to laugh, and it is useless to say that I jumped to obey orders, for I knew that he meant every word he said, and would be respected.

Thom was about as near as the captain and officers could get to my name, and Thom was I called all the voyage. It was short, if not sweet, and suited me as well as all hands.

But let me do justice to my old shipmate and captain. A more honorable and honest man never existed, for he would scorn to take a dollar not his own, and his owners’ interests were as sacred as a marriage vow in his hands. He never would allow his men to be kept short of food, always insisted that they should have enough, and of the best, saw that the crew were neat and clean at all times, and looked after their health as though he had a contract to keep them in good condition, and, indeed, he had, for he was not only captain, but surgeon as well, as the medicine chest was under his exclusive charge, and fearful were the doses that he thrust down many of the throats, when illness was made the plea to escape work. Epsom salts was his favorite remedy.

For three years was I with him, and a better man, to the willing and faithful, I never saw. Some of our boyish pranks he did not seem to appreciate as well as he might, yet he never laid a hand on me, or the rest of the lads, but he would scold, when provoked, and threaten, but he always pretended to forget the punishment we so well merited, sometimes, for Tom, Lewey, and I did try his temper on many occasions, and the rest of the boys were like hornets, always stinging and buzzing, and making fun where fun was possible.